[lro] Rhino-lining a SIII CSW

From: Simon Harding (sjharding@schulte-law.com)
Date: Mon Mar 10 2003 - 18:23:33 EST

  • Next message: Todd Vess: "Re: [lro] Rhino-lining a SIII CSW"

    Yes. I say do it. Unless you can find a good mask line below them, I'd
    have them line it up to the lower edge of the galvy side cappings where they
    wrap back around to the body and rivet through. I'd see if I could get them
    to spray a sample patch ahead of time to check for paint reaction. Then I'd
    do a bunch of the prep myself to the extent possible and see if you can mask
    off any open rivet holes, etc, yourself.

    Rhino is a good choice because I understand from a friend who used it, and
    researched heavily, that its softer then herc%liner. Herc is
    grippier and harder on the knees and elbows. Consider using it on the front
    floors and the middle seat floor. You can have them build the stuff up
    pretty thick, as you know.

    You could remove the cappings like I did (cause I am getting them galvy'd),
    but I am too cheap (broke) for a rhino or line X job, so went with
    dupliclor bedliner (my experience is limited to Herc and duplicol#r. If you
    do apply it as high as the tub edge, consider having them apply a thinner
    level above the point where the cappings wrap around and rivet back to the
    body - as the thickness may cause the cappings to rest on the tub edges
    improperly (probably take at least an eigth inch thick layer to begin to
    cause a problem).

    The stuff looks good, will reduce noise and probably heat, lasts well, and
    should make the rig warmer and condensation less a problem.

    One of the spray on liners needs to be sprayed on in a constant stream
    because it is mixed before the gun, and sprayed hot, so prep is key, as is
    the skill of the knuckle-dragging oaf doing the job (can't remember if its
    linex or rhino, one of them is mixed at the gun, so less a problem). Make
    sure you find a good shop. Sounds like you have a relationship - through
    the fire dept. That may help. I'd also suggest removing the floors for
    spraying. It will make access to the tub floor easier (can "stand in" the
    rig to spray from both ends), and make overspray on the front floor
    boards/masking a non issue. Also consider removing the interior taillight
    protectors and having them done off the rig.

    But if you do it, your rover will no longer be a rover. You will have
    tainted it with a product that did not exist when it rolled off the assembly
    line. If you can sleep at night having done that, I say do it.

    Simon
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