Re: LRO: Range Rover Inquiry

From: Alex Maiolo (Rovernut@nc.rr.com)
Date: Wed Apr 25 2001 - 18:04:40 EDT

  • Next message: Faure, Marin: "LRO: Re: Range Rover Inquiry"

        Here's what I want to use this additional vehicle for:

        1) Daily driving

    >It's not a Mercedes luxury class, but it's a fine ride for what it is

        2) Dog hauling - needs air conditioning

    >The AC is decent until you get into the deep South in July.
        Excels at dog hauling. The truck sits up high and gives you and the dogs a great field of view. I can't help you with the bad breath thing though - take that up with the dogs.

        3) road trips and vacations

    >Brilliant. My first RR was like a pair of well worn jeans or a Barbour coat. Broken in, well-traveled - oh the stories...

        4) camping and light off road use

    >Perfect. Get a roof rack, and consider one that's removable if this will be your daily driver. They can be noisey and make your sucky fuel economy suckier. Plus, when the roof's open you'll think it's Valhalla time.

        1) Besides lrx.com are there any other good web resources for finding rovers for sale?

    >LRX is really good. Try your local paper too.

        2) Any good web resources for finding good information on the various Range Rover model years, etc..?

    >Ask away. We're a helpful lot.

        3) Are there particular model years that are substantially problematic or troublesome? When do they become so complex that you basically need to go to the dealer for service?

    >Stay pre-BMW. 89-92 are pretty nice.

        4) What kind of problems specific to RRs do I want to look out for when looking at these?

    >Rusty tailgate and wheel wells. Slipping tranny on a ragged out one. Headliners. Just accept that the stereo sucks and get over that one. A well maintained engine will serve you nicely. Avoid a dumbass' trash.

        5) What different motor variations available? I have seen the 3.5L and the 3.9L engines but are there others that I should seek out or stay away from? Any pros or cons with the 3.5 of the 3.9?

    >On SWBs, they are 3.9 from '89 on. Features of the 87 and 88's include a manually locking diff, but they are 3.5.
        The 3.5 ain't bad, but the 3.9 has many improvements. I'm personally quite fond of the early 89s, but anything up between '89 and '92 should be a good balance of performance and simplicity. The LWBs have the 4.2.

        6) What tranny do most prefer as far as auto vs. manual? Which one seems more durable? How capable is the auto tranny off-road? How are the manual trannys configured - 4 speed w/ OD or just 5 speed?

    >All US spec RRs are auto, and they work great. The first year of the Disco (in the US - 1994) has a manual option.
        You should consider a Disco as well, they are marvelous trucks and can be had for a nice price, since there are more of them. Either way, the auto trans is the way to go - and I'm a 5-speed guy normally.

        7) What's the real difference between the LWB and SWB models in terms of real space?

    >I've heard quite a bit, but I've never owned one.

        8) Is a RR just a RR or are there different model sub-variants besides LWB and SWB versions?

    >The early Hunters were simple - cloth, manual sunroof, etc, and the later Hunters were more posh (or maybe it's the other way around). Great Divides have a shallower airdam, but basically there are two models:
        Standard and County.
        County has a chrome bumper, some wood inside and a few other niceties.

        9) What else should I know before seriously looking at one to buy?

    >It's better to spend more money on one that's had a good life, than finding a trashed "bargain."
        If you spend $6k and need an engine rebuild and a tranny within a year, you'll have $13k into it if you do the work yourself and use rebuilt or used parts. Better to spend $8500 now and get a peach. They are out there.

        10) I have seen several on lrx.com that are listed at $5-8K with 150-200K miles on them. At what point do these things get to be as much "trouble" as a Series truck.

    > Day one?
        Nah. Heed my words on the "hard life" thing. All 4wds are expensive to keep on the road, but they are more expensive exponentially if you get one that's done heavy off-roading - no exception.
        A decently maintained RR can go 250k easily. I have a pal who has nearly half a mil on his and he's thinking about rebuilding after one more winter. The ancillaries may fail over time, but the engine is good if you're nice to it - use good oil, change often, service the tranny, and for the love of god, don't run it hot!

        11) What's it usually take to make a stock RR a decent off road truck? Are they good to go as is or do people have to go to great lengths with various modifications. And I am talking cost here basically.

    >You say you want to do "light" off-roading, and I assume you'll keep the fun stuff ( ;) ) to the Series truck. If so, stock is really nice. Find a good on and off-road hybrid tire. I personally hate the BFG All Terrain ( the "no terrain"...) but ask around. I like Dunlops, Coopers and Armstrongs. Fairly quiet on-road, and pretty good off-road. Balance often!
        Bilsteins and new bushings help, as do decent springs.
        I swear a stock RR will shame most trucks in the mud, and you can drive it to the theatre in style.

        Where are you? I have friend in VA that has a nice one for sale.

        Alex Maiolo
        Chapel Hill NC



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