RE: [lro] Colour match for wheels and Birmabright unbending...

From: Todd Schlemmer (nullman@centurytel.net)
Date: Thu Jan 30 2003 - 17:14:35 EST

  • Next message: Keith Tanner: "Re: [lro] Colour match for wheels and Birmabright unbending..."

    Keith -

    I am in the final 10% of an aluminum panel un-tweaking operation. What did
    you back into?

    NOTE: You may not like the results- attempt at your own risk. If you like
    the look of a smooth, pristine panel, you'd better buy one and replace the
    damaged one. This procedure isn't going to make it look new without lots of
    bondo and fairing (which is baaaaad). You will probably want to finish your
    work with some paint and primer - matching original faded paintwork may be
    difficult.

    It's pretty straightforward and >>I<< can live with the results. Chicks
    DON'T dig body damage. When you bend, fold, spindle, or mutilate the
    Birmabrite on the outside of your cherished Land Rover, you are tempering(
    hardening) the aluminum alloy, such that you will get compound folds and/or
    tearing when you try to straighten it. You must first anneal the folded
    areas before you bend/pound/whack/pop/push/coax them back into a proper Land
    Rover shape. Enter the pig...

    Step 1: Goto the grocery store and buy some Lard - I had to look in the
    Mexican food section; apparently Thriftway considers lard Mexican food.
    Scared of that.

    Step 2: Get a propane torch (not one of those carburetted hi temp jobs).

    Step 3: Assemble your panel-beating toolkit. I got a body hammer at a
    garage sale years ago that has a very nice wide flat head. You will want a
    STEEL dolly to support the backside. I also bought a bodywork kit at NAPA
    for $17.00 with 4 or 5 dollies that have all kinds of curves - not really
    vital for most LR work and three different hammers, with different
    sized/shaped double heads. Find a big heavy flat chunk of steel- a short
    section of railroad track might work. Not too big -you might need to
    squeeze it into some tight quarters. The NAPA kit had one dolly with a flat
    side that I dressed on some flat wet/dry. Make sure it has a FLAT side and
    no sharp edges - bevel them a tiny bit to avoid digging into the back of the
    panel.

    Step 4: Clean the panel inside and out.

    Step 5: Apply lard AS THINLY AS POSSIBLE to the folded/crumpled parts of
    the panel. If the aluminum is folded, put the lard only on the creased
    part. Less is more here - too much just melts and runs down and drips on
    something. You want to be able to see the lard before and during the
    application of heat.

    Step 6: Starting at the bottom of the panel, apply heat with the propane
    torch. Play the heat back and forth across the backside of the bend,
    watching the lard on the outside. As you get the aluminum hot, the lard
    will liquefy, smoke, and evaporate/bubble. MOVE THE TORCH. Repeat on the
    unheated areas. Let the aluminum cool naturally - do not quench or
    otherwise accelerate the cooling. You are annealing the work-hardening of
    the bent aluminum. When you anneal, say, a file to make a knife blade from,
    you must anneal it by getting it really hot and then cooling it as slowly as
    possible, like overnight. Luckily, Birmabrite doesn't need that kind of
    time frame.

    Step 7: Gross-forming, unfolding. Using your creative energies, you are
    going to try to get the panel MORE Land Rover shaped. Start at any damaged
    edges (like the bottom of the wing or rear quarter panel). You may have to
    exert considerable leverage to the edge to get it straight - If you just
    grab it and try to tweak it with your hands, you will be applying a large
    leverage across the whole panel, possible making something worse. I've had
    good luck using various sized adjustable open-end wrenches to apply
    localized leverage to a bent edge. Oftentimes, lining up an edge gets other
    parts in order. I've used big ass C-clamps to exert a corrective force on
    the back of a folded panel, with the back supported by a dolly and the
    outside bridged across the dent with a section of 2x4. A small jack or
    other bracing against the frame might provide a hard point against which you
    can push. Depending on what you tweaked, you might need to be very creative
    to get the initial untweaking done. For bumpers and crossmembers, I welded
    up a big fork with a handle. There is a >1/4 inch slot between two pieces
    of angle iron, and I can twist sheet metal in two axes using a little heat
    and some leverage.

    Step 8: Panel beating. Using a light touch, with the dolly behind your
    work, knock the folds, bends, ripples, and dents flat and smooth. If you
    try to get everything perfectly flat, you might end up stretching the panel
    from the combination of the initial bends and the subsequent hammering and
    flattening. I haven't found a good way to "shrink" aluminum if it gets too
    pounded out, but there are probably some tricks out there. Shoot for smooth
    over flat. Use a worklamp set up at 90 degrees to the panel to highlight
    high spots. Keep the face of the hammer parallel to the panel. If
    something won't flatten, try annealing it again. Remember those curved
    dollies I mentioned? One worked quite well on the curve at the upper edge
    of the front wing.

    Step 9: Prime and paint. Clean off the lard residue and sand with some
    medium wet dry. You could use bondo, but the next time you dork it up,
    what's gonna happen to that bondo? A few coats of primer ( I've had good
    luck with Zynolyte Synthetic Chromate primer
    http://www.zynolyte.com/zynolyte/tipspages/syntheticchromate_tips.asp ),
    sanding between coats, and top off with a couple of coats of your favorite
    color. I find some bronze wool on the finish replicates the dull look of
    faded paint.

    That's my braindump - lemme know if I omitted anything.

    Todd Schlemmer
    Vashon Island, WA
    www.ozedeph.com

    -----Original Message-----
    From: lro-admin@koan.team.net [mailto:lro-admin@koan.team.net]On Behalf
    Of Keith Tanner
    Sent: Thursday, January 30, 2003 8:07 AM
    To: lro-koan.team.net
    Subject: [lro] Colour match for wheels and Birmabright unbending...

    I'm finally getting to repair the results of my last Moab trip. Two
    questions:

      - what's the paint that's a good match for the off-white used on Series
    wheels? I need to replace my spare tire and the wheel is rusty.

      - any tips on successfully un-crumpling a tweaked rear panel? Should heat
    be involved or do I just start bending?

    Tanks!

    Keith

    ------------
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        http://keith.miata.net
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