I'm puzzling over your description of removing the frame bushings. Your
saying cut the small inner sleeve, that the bolt goes through. Then you can
drive out the entire bushing, outer sleeve, the one welded to the frame by
corrosion, by using a punch tool in the rubber. This sounds a bit too easy,
almost blasphemous devil's work. I haven't tried an air chizel on an uncut
outer bush but can't see how applying the tool to the rubber would have any
effect on outer bush. It would seem the rubber would absorb the blows of
the chizel on one hand. On the other, most of my frame bushes haven't had
the rubber attached to the inner and/or outer sleeve so the rubber just
falls out. Could you try and clear up my incomprehension of your method.
I've never been able to get the outer sleeve to budge without cutting all
the way through. This has been using hand tools, however. Tried without
cutting using an VBFH, bush wouldn't budge and dinged the frame. Once tried
to drive out the flange with a bush that I thought was cut all the way
through but wasn't. Even though it had been cut 95% of the way through, a
small section in the middle wasn't severed. Mangled the frame tube and bush
sleeve trying to beat it out. Finally gave up and started over with the
saw, which was made way more difficult because of the mangled condition of
the sleeve. Had to file burrs out of the frame tube before I could get a
new bush in.
On my last bush removal, I used an air chizel after sawing the outer sleeve.
The cut sleeve came out so fast I was incredulous. Can't wait, nah,
that's being disengenuous, let's say on the next one I have to do, I'll try
the air chizel on an uncut sleeve to see if it will drive it out. Sure
would be a BIG bonus, if it will, as cutting the sleeve is a sweaty PITA.
Burning out the rubber is quick, though it may be dirty. If you use the
torch, reccomened that its done in a well ventilated area and that you don't
sniff the fumes. Try aerosol propellants if you really want to sniff
something stupid. Its easy to stay away from the fumes and once the rubber
is ignited, its self perpetuating so you can stand well back.
An impact wrench made reinstalling the sleeve a quick and easy operation
with my make shift installation set up. Ran the nut up on the bolt drawing
the bush in quickly. Zipped the nut right off when I had to add more
spacers. Lost out on a bit of exercise but cut the reinstallation by at
least a third and no bruises or blood.
Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley@dit.state.va.us>
>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>To: "'lro@works.team.net'" <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>Subject: LRO: RE: Frame bushings
>Date: Mon, 4 Jun 2001 09:40:58 -0400
>
>Rich,
>Got shop AIR? Air hammer? Punch attachment for air hammer?
>- Use hacksaw (install blade upside-down, basically, run blade through the
>bushing, teeth towards handle). This is actually much easier than it
>sounds, with a fresh new blade.
>- Cut through first steel layer only.
>- Place air hammer punch into the rubber between the steel layers, right at
>the cut you just made.
>- Hammer the punch through entire length of bushing. The inner steel layer
>will curl at the cut, releasing pressure on the rubber and outer steel
>layer
>and the entire bushing will 'drive' right out with the air hammer/punch.
>This method has never failed for me.
>
>JT/ric
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
>
>Last but not least, I have yet to remove the frame bushings. My instincts
>tell me that they are better off left in situ until AFTER the frame is
>blasted then replace with new bushings. Thoughts anyone?
>
>Are there any tricks to removing these stubborn things? Hydralic press?
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Rich
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This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Mon Jun 04 2001 - 16:14:01 EDT