>I'm having trouble dealing with the cotterpins used in various places,
>primarily with the ones attached to the clutch lever and relay arm. Every
>one of them is rusted in place
Wow! Mine were always real greasy from the British external lubrication
system. No chance for rust to get started when metal is protected by a
thick layer of oil.
> and brittle, meaning that I can snap the
>heads off and pull then out, then drill the part. Am I missing some
>fundamental Old Car Trick for dealing with these, or is it a fact of life?
>How can I make it easier for myself next time?
As far as I know you just get them out any way you can and replace them
with new pins.
>Any tips for clutch replacement would be appreciated as well.
Since this sounds like the clutch has been ignored for a long time may I
suggest you take a good look at the clutch linkage between the clutch
slave cylinder and the throwout bearing. Parts wear over time, holes
elongate and slop is created in the linkage.
Just a little slop in the lower linkage requires a larger amount of pedal
travel to take it up. Add up the slop from a bunch or worn joints and
you can end up with a lot of pedal travel just to take up the slop.
When I checked mine, all the holes were elongated, the bronze ball was
badly worn and distorted and the felt pieces were almost gone. I ended up
replacing the collier, brass ball, 'L' lever, felt oil rings and pins.
When the old parts were in, the clutch released less than one inch from
the floor. With the new linkage parts and no other changes the clutch
released when the pedal was half way to the floor.
Now that I think of it, I wonder how many people ever periodically add a
drop or two of oil on the felt pads around the brass ball on their clutch
linkage?
> The relay lever for the clutch is
>still in place because it appears I'd have to drop the gas tank in order to
>remove it - I'm hoping to manouver the tranny around it.
??????? The relay lever for the clutch on a series IIA is beside the bell
housing under the clutch slave cylinder. That is way far from any stock
fuel tank.
Any chance you are referring to the emergency brake linkage? If you are
referring to the e-brake linkage, and the lever that is mounted to the
inside of the frame you do not have to move it. And you can get to both
sides of the bolts without removing the fuel tank.
> I'm going to try
>to support the tranny on a trolley jack - how much does it weigh?
As I recall around 100 pounds, probably lighter. I just get in there
with it, pull it back and let it rest on the transmission cross member
with a jack stand supporting the rear.
Speaking of which, do not forget to put a jack stand under the rear of
the engine to support it.
If you have not done this sort of thing before, follow the factory
workshop manual closely. It will be a lot easier the second time.
TeriAnn Wakeman Marigold Ltd.
Santa Cruz, California Web design, site updating, testing
webmaster@overlander.net search engine optimization, graphics
and more
http://www.overlander.net/Marigold/index.html
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