Think we have the same bracket, the horse shoe or 'C' piece has arms of .8"
and a back of 1" and serves to space the actuating arm out to clear the air
filter base. The 'L' part stands up 2 1/2" from the base of the C and
extends towards the fender 2 1/2" from the back of the verical piece. The
ball joint connector is facing in toward the carburetor on mine.
I did the install on mine 17 years ago so forgive me. I'm a little fuzzy on
the what I had to do to get full throw of the second venturi. I know I
adjusted the control arms up on the foot well so that I got maximum throw.
You might even go into the pedal stop on the floor board and adjust it all
the way in though I don't remember messing with this. The forward end of
the long arm that goes from the top of the foot well to the bell crank by
the carb would not work with the stock spring clip. The angle was so
extreme the clip fouled and wouldn't allow full extension. I took the clip
off put the bent end in the bell crank and temporarily wired it on as best I
could. It was supposed to be a temporary fix but is stll there after all
these years and has never allowed the end to slip out. Don't remember any
other mods that I did to get it to work. After grubbing every milimeter out
of the linkage, the 2nd venturi just about completely opens. If 90 degrees
is veritcal, it goes to about 87 degrees which I don't think limits the
airflow much at all. Seems like I remember a couple hours of work for the
installation. Suggest you keep fiddling and you should be able to get very
close to maximum throttle opening.
I've driven the carb with the jetting that came with. Think its a 135 main
and 140 secondary jet. Seemed to work fine on a stock 7-1 engine. Never
pulled the plugs to check the color but truck ran for around 14 years with
out any valve or overheating problems and no valve recession from running
unleaded. Mileage was decent at around 15-16 in an 88 with some long trips
up a steep hill every day. I have never driven a series without the 32/26
so can't comment on power addition. Know that going to a 2.5 cam, milling
the head to 8-1 specs and a homemade port and polish job, still using the
32/36, makes a BIG difference in the power.
The breather on top of the valve cover is supposed ot have an 'O' ring at
its base to seal it. The breather pipe goes to an 'L' fitting under the
outboard front of the base of the aircleaner. The valve cover nuts have
rubber washers that get very hard with age so may need to be changed. In
any case there isn't much, if any, pressure in the valve cover though there
is a constant supply of oil splashing around under the valve cover. You
shouldn't see a lot of oil coming out. Leaks are generally around the base
of the cover, and minor. If you think there is too much oil coming out of
the valve cover area, suggest you put your finger over the end of the cap
vent tube and rev up the engine. If you can feel much, if any, pressure you
may have ring problems.
Do a compression check and note the readings. Squirt a small amount of oil
in the cylinders and do another compression test. If there is a rise in
pressure from the original readings, your rings are going south.
Hope this helps. The carb is sitting on my desk as I write and could take
the portable phone out to the truck, if you wanted me talk you through it.
My phone number is 808 325-7898 and its 6pm, here, as I write this.
The 109 is up and running with a cable arrangement, by the way. I've
noticed that all the parts are available to make the conversion through
Pierce with the exception of an easily fabricated arm arrangement that goes
on the foot well. Could take some measurements and tell you the pieces that
you need to buy if you want to take the plunge.
Aloha
Peter Ogilvie
Kona Coffee Rover
1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
from exposure of the dark side.
1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running.
1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>From: "Kirk Hillman" <kdhillma@telusplanet.net>
>Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
>To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
>Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600
>
>Peter,
> As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an
>'L'
>shaped angle next to it. Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces the
>"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter. In situ, the
>'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's
>side a few inches. Clear as mud? I would have taken pictures to explain
>better, but the digital camera is at the office in town. If your system
>works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe?
>
>Thanks,
>Kirk
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Peter Ogilvie" <konacoffee2@hotmail.com>
>To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
>Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM
>Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
>
>
> > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach to
>the
> > carb, I might be able to help you. Mine opens all the way using a
>custom
> > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the
>way.
> > A cable is probably a better way to go. Understand that there is a
>stock
> > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s. You might be able to get
> > this from England. I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage for
>17
> > years, however.
> >
> > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and
>highly
> > reccomend it. Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/.
>Personally
> > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it
>should
> > give better gas mileage.
> >
> > Aloha
> > Peter
> >
> >
> > >From: "Kirk Hillman" <kdhillma@telusplanet.net>
> > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
> > >To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
> > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36
> > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
> > >
> > > I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied with
>the
> > >performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED to
>come
> > >with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket to
> > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line is that it
>is
> > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the
>second
> > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to make
>it
> > >a little better. I understand there are guys that modify the carb so
>the
> > >butterfly valves open at the same time. Could someone point me to the
>info
> > >I need to do this?
> > >
> > >Thanks,
> > >Kirk
> > >
> >
> > _________________________________________________________________
> > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> >
> >
>
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