Peter,
I am inspired to make my carb work somehow rather than modify the ports
to work together. I did most of the things you talked about with regard to
adjustments in the linkage and such. I was most gratified to hear about
your temporary fix, I modified the crank arm by lengthening it and moving
the hole for the pull rod. This seemed to help tremendously. Still can't
get full open throttle though. I think the problem is a geometric one. The
carb is fully open at almost 90 degrees of turn of the throttle arm ('C'
bracket) which starts out horizontal. When the crank arm starts to rotate
toward the cab it is already a long way from horizontal which means that it
doesn't have a very long pull before it is actually pulling *away* from the
carb. That is why I have been playing with the length of the arm and the
point from which the linkage pulls on the crank arm. Sort of modifying the
'progression' if you will. If I moved the ball back toward the pivot point
on the carb, my throttle would work faster but the relative angle from the
pivot point would be less and therefore I should be able to get more angular
pull. This all sounds terribly confusing, sorry for not being more clear,
but it all works out beautifully in my head now! Thanks. I am still very
interested in your cable set-up, but since I have all the parts here already
for the linkage I will tinker with it some more. BTW, do you have a hand
throttle on the cable set-up?
Kirk
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter Ogilvie" <konacoffee2@hotmail.com>
To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 10:02 PM
Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
> Think we have the same bracket, the horse shoe or 'C' piece has arms of
.8"
> and a back of 1" and serves to space the actuating arm out to clear the
air
> filter base. The 'L' part stands up 2 1/2" from the base of the C and
> extends towards the fender 2 1/2" from the back of the verical piece. The
> ball joint connector is facing in toward the carburetor on mine.
>
> I did the install on mine 17 years ago so forgive me. I'm a little fuzzy
on
> the what I had to do to get full throw of the second venturi. I know I
> adjusted the control arms up on the foot well so that I got maximum throw.
> You might even go into the pedal stop on the floor board and adjust it all
> the way in though I don't remember messing with this. The forward end of
> the long arm that goes from the top of the foot well to the bell crank by
> the carb would not work with the stock spring clip. The angle was so
> extreme the clip fouled and wouldn't allow full extension. I took the
clip
> off put the bent end in the bell crank and temporarily wired it on as best
I
> could. It was supposed to be a temporary fix but is stll there after all
> these years and has never allowed the end to slip out. Don't remember any
> other mods that I did to get it to work. After grubbing every milimeter
out
> of the linkage, the 2nd venturi just about completely opens. If 90
degrees
> is veritcal, it goes to about 87 degrees which I don't think limits the
> airflow much at all. Seems like I remember a couple hours of work for the
> installation. Suggest you keep fiddling and you should be able to get
very
> close to maximum throttle opening.
>
> I've driven the carb with the jetting that came with. Think its a 135
main
> and 140 secondary jet. Seemed to work fine on a stock 7-1 engine. Never
> pulled the plugs to check the color but truck ran for around 14 years with
> out any valve or overheating problems and no valve recession from running
> unleaded. Mileage was decent at around 15-16 in an 88 with some long
trips
> up a steep hill every day. I have never driven a series without the 32/26
> so can't comment on power addition. Know that going to a 2.5 cam, milling
> the head to 8-1 specs and a homemade port and polish job, still using the
> 32/36, makes a BIG difference in the power.
>
> The breather on top of the valve cover is supposed ot have an 'O' ring at
> its base to seal it. The breather pipe goes to an 'L' fitting under the
> outboard front of the base of the aircleaner. The valve cover nuts have
> rubber washers that get very hard with age so may need to be changed. In
> any case there isn't much, if any, pressure in the valve cover though
there
> is a constant supply of oil splashing around under the valve cover. You
> shouldn't see a lot of oil coming out. Leaks are generally around the
base
> of the cover, and minor. If you think there is too much oil coming out of
> the valve cover area, suggest you put your finger over the end of the cap
> vent tube and rev up the engine. If you can feel much, if any, pressure
you
> may have ring problems.
>
> Do a compression check and note the readings. Squirt a small amount of
oil
> in the cylinders and do another compression test. If there is a rise in
> pressure from the original readings, your rings are going south.
>
> Hope this helps. The carb is sitting on my desk as I write and could take
> the portable phone out to the truck, if you wanted me talk you through it.
> My phone number is 808 325-7898 and its 6pm, here, as I write this.
>
> The 109 is up and running with a cable arrangement, by the way. I've
> noticed that all the parts are available to make the conversion through
> Pierce with the exception of an easily fabricated arm arrangement that
goes
> on the foot well. Could take some measurements and tell you the pieces
that
> you need to buy if you want to take the plunge.
>
> Aloha
> Peter Ogilvie
> Kona Coffee Rover
> 1970 88 soft top, 'huli' Mine since '84 but recovering
> from exposure of the dark side.
> 1966 109 pickup 'slime' In my garage since '90, finally running.
> 1965 88 parts car, slowly sinking into the lava.
> 196? 88 hard top, possibly 'phoenix' if it rises, it will
> certainly be from ashes or at least a pile of rust
>
>
>
>
>
> >From: "Kirk Hillman" <kdhillma@telusplanet.net>
> >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
> >To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
> >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 19:43:08 -0600
> >
> >Peter,
> > As to the shape, imagine a horseshoe lying on a table, then stand an
> >'L'
> >shaped angle next to it. Essentially the horseshoe piece simply spaces
the
> >"L" away from the carb about 1" to clear the K&N air filter. In situ,
the
> >'L' shaped bracket extends up a couple of inches and then to the driver's
> >side a few inches. Clear as mud? I would have taken pictures to explain
> >better, but the digital camera is at the office in town. If your system
> >works, could you explain what your bracket looks like... pictures maybe?
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Kirk
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Peter Ogilvie" <konacoffee2@hotmail.com>
> >To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
> >Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2001 6:35 PM
> >Subject: Re: LRO: Weber 32/36
> >
> >
> > > If you can be more specific about the design of the bracket to attach
to
> >the
> > > carb, I might be able to help you. Mine opens all the way using a
> >custom
> > > bracket that came with the carb and stock linkage all the rest of the
> >way.
> > > A cable is probably a better way to go. Understand that there is a
> >stock
> > > cable arrangement that came on the early D90s. You might be able to
get
> > > this from England. I've been very happy with my mechanical linkage
for
> >17
> > > years, however.
> > >
> > > Pierce, the manifold people, sell the simultaneous opening kit and
> >highly
> > > reccomend it. Their website is http://www.piercemanifolds.com/.
> >Personally
> > > I'd see if I could sort out the normal progressive actuation as it
> >should
> > > give better gas mileage.
> > >
> > > Aloha
> > > Peter
> > >
> > >
> > > >From: "Kirk Hillman" <kdhillma@telusplanet.net>
> > > >Reply-To: lro@works.team.net
> > > >To: <lro@Works.Team.Net>
> > > >Subject: LRO: Weber 32/36
> > > >Date: Sun, 6 May 2001 17:52:27 -0600
> > > >
> > > > I have a Weber 32/36 DVG on the Banshee and am not satisfied
with
> >the
> > > >performance because of the way the thing operates. It was SUPPOSED
to
> >come
> > > >with a throttle cable. Instead the guy sent a funny looking bracket
to
> > > >replace the stock throttle arm on the carb. The bottom line is that
it
> >is
> > > >not possible to get enough movement in the stock linkage to open the
> >second
> > > >butterfly valve fully... and I have even "modified" the linkage to
make
> >it
> > > >a little better. I understand there are guys that modify the carb so
> >the
> > > >butterfly valves open at the same time. Could someone point me to
the
> >info
> > > >I need to do this?
> > > >
> > > >Thanks,
> > > >Kirk
> > > >
> > >
> > > _________________________________________________________________
> > > Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
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>
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Mon May 07 2001 - 10:27:30 EDT