[lro] Spring overs and small blocks

From: Hope Peter (hope_peter@bah.com)
Date: Thu Apr 24 2003 - 12:45:22 EDT

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    Well my front Salisbury is here. I went with a 110 unit so that I also
    have disc brakes, oh joy.
    One of the biggest reason for going to the Sals is that I want 4.1 ring
    and pinions and ya got to admit Dana 60's are just plain cool.

    Since the front is from a coiler, and my current rear is a 109 I also
    got a 110 Sals rear housing and longer axle shafts.
    If you havent looked at a coiler front end before, the steering arms are
    cast as part of the outer swivel. The tie rod is on the bottom rear of
    the housing and the drag link is on the bottom front. This set up is
    not a big deal with the coil suspension, but definately going to have
    some clearance issues with the leaves.
    So I have been considering doing a spring over. My frame currently has
    a 2" lift built into it via lowered spring mounts. So I want to go back
    and raise the spring mounts 3-4". This way the vehicle hieght will be
    the same after doing the spring over.
    With the springs atop the axle the tie rod will clear. But I need to
    solve the drag link issue. I want to make a stearing arm that goes atop
    the right hand swivel. Looks like it will be up above the spring. I
    might not even need a drop arm on the bottom of the stearing box.

    Some folks are trying to get me to do a coil conversion, but the
    parabolics are just plain awsome. I have driven a couple hard trails
    with some folks that have coiled vehicle and have had no problems
    following in their footsteps. But I am still thinking about rear leaves
    on the front. Need to settle this before I start modding the frame.

    The problem that I see with this plan is at the rear of the front
    springs. Either stock length or longer, with the bends in the frame can
    I raise the mounts? I see at full compression the rear spring eye will
    be hitting the frame.
    So if I raise just the front and keep the shackels in the stock
    position, and then use shims to get the pinion back pointing correct.
    The stearing angles will be correct, but what other problems will I
    introduce?
    Maybe I need to go coils after all?

    On the small block question. For my next project I am getting a GM
    Crate 350 HO. It comes minus the intake. Accel and Edelbrock both make
    a tuned port FI intake. Comes with all sensors, computer, etc. Even
    has software so you can plug in a laptop to set everything up and do the
    tuning.
    Anyone got any experiance with these?

    Thanks a bunch.
    Pete "now I need to clean out the garage"
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