--- "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <apg4@mail.pinn.net> wrote:
> I have used "Lumiweld" (one of those 'brazing' rods for
> non-ferrous metals)
> and a propane torch with considerable success.
Seconded. I've done similar repairs on roof panels, wings,
and recently repaired a broken Range Rover door handle. The
"rub-on" aluminum solder sticks mean it - the rubbing of
the stick as it melts displaces oxidation and allows the
metal to stick. You may want to use a backer paddle of some
sort as well - a bit of scrap aluminium or the like to
contain the puddle wouldn't hurt.
Be very very careful with the heat - the melting point of
the solder and the base metal are not all that far apart
depending on the alloy involved. THe door handle casting
was a case in point - sodding thing started to melt on me
necessitating some very involved grinding afterward.
Paradoxically, though, you do need a LOT of heat when
working on large objects - ally dissipates a ton of heat
well, so achieving fusion temperature is not the easiest
thing to do without melting the base metal.
ALso, do we need to remind that doing this with the
headliner in place is a very, very bad idea? Please be
careful...
ajr
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