I tried putting the cork 'T' seals in dry. It may be
able to be done but I didn't find the way. After
destroying one set, called in my old mechanic buddy.
His first comment was, did you oil the cork and block.
Slapped a little oil on the seals, etc. and all was
right with the world.
The genuine OEM seals also have a plastic coating on
one side. The coating made it a lot easier to put the
seal in without destroying it.
Aloha
Peter O.
--- John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
wrote:
>
> The method I use for installing the rear main cap
> with new cork Ts is to
> put the cork in the cap and with a razor blade cut a
> very narrow chamfer
> along the edge of the cork. Then at the last moment
> take the cork off
> the cap and cover it well with engine oil, replace
> it and carefully
> start the cap into the block, gently pushing with a
> little sideways
> movement until in place. If there is some of the
> cork extending from the
> cap when tightened do not trim flat, 1/8" to 1/4" is
> desirable as this
> will be pushed in to expand the cork.
> DO NOT soak the cork in advance as it will swell.
>
> This method has worked sucessfully for me over a
> good number of years.
> John and Muddy
>
> Ian Stuart wrote:
> >
> > On Tue, 2003-04-15 at 11:28, Scott Wickham wrote:
> > > I think that was something like a feeler
> gauge to help guide in the cork
> > > T seals. Get a set of dental picks to help get
> the spring connected and
> > > onto the seal. And I had good luck with putting
> a small piece of cork
> > > between the two halves of the seal retainer.
> Squish it between them and
> > > then slip them onto the dowel pins, add bolts.
> > These 'T' pieces are a real swine to install.
> >
> > >From my own engine rebuild:
> > "I don't have the special tool for fitting the
> cork pieces in the side
> > of the bearing, so I resorted to the "feeler
> guage" method. Well, I
> > tried to... 40 minutes later, and the d@mn thing
> is not in. Leave the
> > cork in water to try to soften in whilst we have a
> coffee break. Try
> > again.... Nope. Try the "beer can" method: cut
> some metal from a
> > beer-can and smear in oil - the "plate" is wide
> enough to cover the
> > whole width of the bearing, and thin enough to fit
> between the block and
> > the bearing (with no cork)... still not going in!
> Tore the d@mn cork
> > too! "Hot Dang" (or words to that effect!). Give
> up, and use the tdi
> > method: fill the gap with silicon-sealer, fit, and
> then squirt more down
> > the channels... Torque the bearing-bolts down.
> > "
> >
> > The real special-tool is simply a pair of bevelled
> blocks that are
> > bolted onto the bottom of the block, and gently
> squeeze the cork pieces
> > as the block is pushed home.
> >
> > Having said that, my 2-ltr has not leaked any oil
> since my rebuild
> > (>1000 miles)
> >
> > --
> > --==++
> > Ian Stuart, Perl Laghu: Edinburgh University Data
> Library.
> >
> > Information is not knowledge
> > Knowledge is not wisdom
> > Wisdom is not truth
> > Truth is not beauty
> > Beauty is not love
> > Love is not music
> > -- Mary.
> >
> > Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/
> > _______________________________________________
> > LRO mailing list
> > LRO@land-rover.team.net
> > http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
> _______________________________________________
> LRO mailing list
> LRO@land-rover.team.net
> http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
The New Yahoo! Search - Faster. Easier. Bingo
http://search.yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
LRO mailing list
LRO@land-rover.team.net
http://land-rover.team.net/mailman/listinfo/lro
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Apr 15 2003 - 13:52:08 EDT