Re: [lro] replacing rear main seal

From: John Cranfield (john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca)
Date: Tue Apr 15 2003 - 08:42:25 EDT

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    The method I use for installing the rear main cap with new cork Ts is to
    put the cork in the cap and with a razor blade cut a very narrow chamfer
    along the edge of the cork. Then at the last moment take the cork off
    the cap and cover it well with engine oil, replace it and carefully
    start the cap into the block, gently pushing with a little sideways
    movement until in place. If there is some of the cork extending from the
    cap when tightened do not trim flat, 1/8" to 1/4" is desirable as this
    will be pushed in to expand the cork.
     DO NOT soak the cork in advance as it will swell.

    This method has worked sucessfully for me over a good number of years.
    John and Muddy
     
    Ian Stuart wrote:
    >
    > On Tue, 2003-04-15 at 11:28, Scott Wickham wrote:
    > > I think that was something like a feeler gauge to help guide in the cork
    > > T seals. Get a set of dental picks to help get the spring connected and
    > > onto the seal. And I had good luck with putting a small piece of cork
    > > between the two halves of the seal retainer. Squish it between them and
    > > then slip them onto the dowel pins, add bolts.
    > These 'T' pieces are a real swine to install.
    >
    > >From my own engine rebuild:
    > "I don't have the special tool for fitting the cork pieces in the side
    > of the bearing, so I resorted to the "feeler guage" method. Well, I
    > tried to... 40 minutes later, and the d@mn thing is not in. Leave the
    > cork in water to try to soften in whilst we have a coffee break. Try
    > again.... Nope. Try the "beer can" method: cut some metal from a
    > beer-can and smear in oil - the "plate" is wide enough to cover the
    > whole width of the bearing, and thin enough to fit between the block and
    > the bearing (with no cork)... still not going in! Tore the d@mn cork
    > too! "Hot Dang" (or words to that effect!). Give up, and use the tdi
    > method: fill the gap with silicon-sealer, fit, and then squirt more down
    > the channels... Torque the bearing-bolts down.
    > "
    >
    > The real special-tool is simply a pair of bevelled blocks that are
    > bolted onto the bottom of the block, and gently squeeze the cork pieces
    > as the block is pushed home.
    >
    > Having said that, my 2-ltr has not leaked any oil since my rebuild
    > (>1000 miles)
    >
    > --
    > --==++
    > Ian Stuart, Perl Laghu: Edinburgh University Data Library.
    >
    > Information is not knowledge
    > Knowledge is not wisdom
    > Wisdom is not truth
    > Truth is not beauty
    > Beauty is not love
    > Love is not music
    > -- Mary.
    >
    > Personal web site: http://lucas.ucs.ed.ac.uk/
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