On Tue, 2003-04-15 at 11:28, Scott Wickham wrote:
> I think that was something like a feeler gauge to help guide in the cork
> T seals. Get a set of dental picks to help get the spring connected and
> onto the seal. And I had good luck with putting a small piece of cork
> between the two halves of the seal retainer. Squish it between them and
> then slip them onto the dowel pins, add bolts.
These 'T' pieces are a real swine to install.
From my own engine rebuild:
"I don't have the special tool for fitting the cork pieces in the side
of the bearing, so I resorted to the "feeler guage" method. Well, I
tried to... 40 minutes later, and the d@mn thing is not in. Leave the
cork in water to try to soften in whilst we have a coffee break. Try
again.... Nope. Try the "beer can" method: cut some metal from a
beer-can and smear in oil - the "plate" is wide enough to cover the
whole width of the bearing, and thin enough to fit between the block and
the bearing (with no cork)... still not going in! Tore the d@mn cork
too! "Hot Dang" (or words to that effect!). Give up, and use the tdi
method: fill the gap with silicon-sealer, fit, and then squirt more down
the channels... Torque the bearing-bolts down.
"
The real special-tool is simply a pair of bevelled blocks that are
bolted onto the bottom of the block, and gently squeeze the cork pieces
as the block is pushed home.
Having said that, my 2-ltr has not leaked any oil since my rebuild
(>1000 miles)
-- --==++ Ian Stuart, Perl Laghu: Edinburgh University Data Library.Information is not knowledge Knowledge is not wisdom Wisdom is not truth Truth is not beauty Beauty is not love Love is not music -- Mary.
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