Simon,
If it is anything like on a plane where two pieces of aluminium can touch,
but are not secured and then subjected to vibration, you will get a shiny wear
area and black "smoke" trailing off it as they rub. I'd caulk it and hope that
you do not have to do it again. Also the steel frame will be isolated from the
aluminum by the caulk and so possibly prevent galvanitic corrosion where two
dissimilar metals touch and react. Also there are some wterpoofing qualities to
the silicon sealers.
Kind regards
Mark Pilkington.
Owner of old vibrating aluminum cars and planes.
Simon Harding wrote:
> Anyone actually done this? Can you offer any advice? I have a set of non
> genuine middle doors for my 109. I had them modified slightly
> (strengthened) and am having them galvanized now. I have my old door skins,
> which are in good shape, as well as the skins that came with the new doors.
> I unbent the crimps just enough to remove the skins. I was looking at a LR
> mag recently and saw an article on rekinnin in which they used a caulk like
> adhesive when re-skinning. I am wondering if this is necessary? Have any
> members who have reskinned their doors noticed rattles, or shifting of the
> door skin, having not used an adhesive? Seems like using it would create a
> PITA if teh skins ever need to be removed again. I was thinking of using
> strip caulk - the non hardening stuff, and doing the job in hot weather, so
> it will compress well, or not using any such stuff.
>
> Otherwise, I'll just be re-crimping, using a flat surface/block of 2 by 4,
> and a flat faced hammer.
>
> Simon
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