> You're running a torquey 6 and want to run 9.00-16s? I'm running a
torquey V8
> and 35s and have yet (two years) to have a problem with my stock front
end. If
> you are running an open diff I don't think you'll have a problem with the
diff.
> If you run an aftermarket carrier (ARB, Detroit) then you have even less
reason
> to be concerned.
The 10 spline front end that's in a series is substantially stronger than
the same in the coiler variety. Range rovers and 90s with the small 10
spline axles are notorious for breakage at the CV. It's a well known fact in
the coiler world that I'm living on borrowed time, failure isn't a
possibility, it's an eventuality. With the pretty low gears and torque, I'm
very worried about it. This isn't upgrading "just in case". I haven't broken
these parts yet because I've been taking it easy and driving really smooth.
The rear's a joke. I used to snap rover axles like twigs, and these,
although slightly better metallurgy, are almost as weak. I'm driving very
carefully and avoiding shock loading as I'd really like them to last until
the replacement axles are ready.
The other reason I'm thinking of going really beefy with the axles is that I
have been working up to an engine swap, to a diesel. I'm not quite yet ready
to tell the world what I've got planned for it (no Pete, not a GM), but
it's going to be heavy, therefore needing a very heavy duty front axle. I've
heard of bent series front axles cases on 88's with Perkins conversions, so
I'm trying to stay away from the welded steel axle casing of the rover axles
if I can, because the pressed in tubes and cast housing of the D60 is made
to support more weight. Ground clearance is a good point, though. If I could
build a 62" wide U jointed rover front axle with discs and locking hubs I'd
be set. However, that's not possible without some major work, and it might
still be too weak for the weight of the engine.
J-L
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