On Monday, November 25, 2002, at 08:28 AM, Nick Danger wrote:
> . The only non stock
> electricals I have in there now are the high beam switch
This might be a good time to consider additions such as replacing the
generator with an alternator that has a built in voltage regulator,
possible relays for headlamps (if you might want to install more
powerful headlamps in he future), relay for the horn (if you ever wish
it to beep to it's potential), a relay for all the ignition switch
controlled non-lighting electrics (because the switch is very expensive
new and can not handle much current), possible radios & such. I assume
your hallas are on a relay and you are not routing their power through
a Lucas switch.
I suggest using the British standard wiring code. it makes the circuit
easier for you or someone else to troubleshoot. British Pacific
carries striped wire, and there is a British wire use colour code in
the new online series catalogue. Both BP and RN carry solder on
terminals, barrel connectors and new replacement grommets for where
wires go through sheet metal.
if you have any gauges that are not in top shape BP offers a rebuilding
service and can special order any current Smiths & Lucas gauges. I
recommend adding a Lucas volt meter.
my harness has too many custom additions to be of much use to you. The
best thing is to follow the factory harness diagram as a general
guideline and take it one circuit at a time. Wire from battery to
starter switch then from starter switch to motor, allows the engine to
turn over. A wire from the hot side of the starter switch to the
ignition switch allows you to add switched power. A wire from the
ignition switch to one side of the coil & from the other side of the
coil allows the engine to run. If you think of the circuits one at a
time & by function it becomes easy.
best of luck on the project.
> TeriAnn J. wakeman
Santa Cruz, California
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
A member of the internet community since 1985.
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