They are supposed to fit tightly and make a proper seal, but they only seem
to work, for me, on my 'merican stuff(trucks, trailers & such).
For my LRs, I use one of the cone shaped black fittings and insert the one
of proper size >into> the bleed screw. Otherwise, just use tubing of proper
size to slip tightly over the bleed screw, and join to the mighty vac with
one of the black joint fittings or cones to the tubing attached to the MV.
A box wrench/ignition wrench(the teeny ones) hung on the bleed screw prior
to attaching the tubing or fitting facilitates opening and closing the bleed
valve. A small nylon zip tie may help you make a good seal with the tubing
size you have, and relieve you of having to hold it on the bleed screw.
Armed with a MityVac...
(one of two methods can be used w/ the MV, reverse pressure or
suction(vacuum) bleeding...see http://www.mityvac.com/tech.html)
, an old bicycle inner tube...
(cut in half 180 degrees opposite the schrader valve, then tie one open end
in a tight knot or zip tie it tightly to make a seal, stretch the other end
over the reservoir and pump up the tube only with a hand pump(shop air will
likely make a big BOOM, spraying brake fluid indiscriminately onto your
painted surfaces:-o)'til the tube expands slightly, open a bleed screw until
clean bubble-less brake fluid emerges into your drain bottle, watching that
the reservoir does not go dry during the process.)
...and a hand pump, some zip ties, a few hose clamps, anyone can either
vacuum or pressure bleed any vehicle hydraulic brake/clutch system
solo(...not to mention the many other tasks a MV is useful for).
JT/ric
This archive was generated by hypermail 2b30 : Tue Apr 03 2001 - 09:48:12 EDT