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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 08:48:07 EST
Subject: Re: Lateral thinking needed on cooling problem

In a message dated 12/20/98 5:34:27 AM Eastern Standard Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

 take it from there.... >>

Adrian,
While it is out, cover one of the rad hose and run the garden hose in the
other (Pressurize the radiator) and see what you have for a leak.  It may be
very minor.

Nate

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:21:35 +0100
Subject: Re: SHOUTING (was shouting, now whispering)

Hi Rob,

Welcome to the list with your new keyboard! No hard feelings.

Stick around - this list is full of lot's of very helpful people.
Besides the obvious advice on Land Rovers, this list boasts a unique
collection of expertise and general knowledge - most of it as divergent
in opinion as the LR content.

As for the MPG debate - I collected data from several list members a
year ago, which i haven't found time to collate yet. General conclusions
as to LR MPG's? Well most guzzle more gas or diesel than their
competitors, most of us get less MPG than we want, but few of us would
part with the rover just to get a better MPG.

Diesels seem more varied in their MPG's than Petrols - maybe because
they take time to warm up and run efficiently, maybe because they will
still run even though they have passed the poor level of efficiency
which will leave other vehicles at the roadside.

I fixed a carb for one of my staff the other day - a Weber on a Peugeot
- found out that the problem was a small nylon gizom worth less than a
few cents which linked the choke lever to the choke butterfly. In her
case it proved that 1% of a Peugeot is enough to cause a breakdown,
whilst experience shows that the average SIII Rover can run with less
than 60% of its bits working/present. OK - it depends on which bit - but
generally these beasties have a high level of redundancy.

Have a good Christmas.

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:05:16
Subject: sIIA wipers

>uzy has gotten a bout of prince of darkness fever. as there has been no
>rain the past couple of months, haven't had to use the wipers till this
>past week. these are the individual 2a motors, never had problems before.
>now BOTH are refusing to turn. they have power and are grounded. took the
>cover off of one and i can turn the armature and there is power inside of
>the housing, sprayed some wd40 to clean things up a bit, any ideas? never
>took one apart before so i'm not familiar with what to check for. strange
>that they both would stop working at the same time. thanks in advance

Bob, it could be the switchs on the back. Take the cover off and clean up
all the crap inside, see if the switch is making contact. It's easy to
tighten up with a small wooden dowl and a small hammer, just tapp gently on
the split rivet attaching the switch assy.
I took my wipers ALL apart this summer and some of the original grease
tooked like very old and very hard lard. I cleaned all and relubed with
Lubraplate grease. On the work bench they are much smoother operating. I
believe I still have the article from either LRO or LRW about doing this.

Jim Wolf

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:24:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: sIIA wipers

On Sun, 20 Dec 1998, James Wolf wrote:

:
:Bob, it could be the switchs on the back. Take the cover off and clean up

I rebuilt my wipers last year.  Following putting them back together, one
didn't work, because the switch wasn't working.

:I took my wipers ALL apart this summer and some of the original grease
:tooked like very old and very hard lard. I cleaned all and relubed with
:Lubraplate grease. On the work bench they are much smoother operating. I
:believe I still have the article from either LRO or LRW about doing this.

There is something in the FAQ by Alan Richer about doing this.  The only
hard bits are getting the split ring at the end of the shaft off (if I did
it again, I would replace it with a circlip) and getting the bushes to
stay in place.

David

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:28:04 -0500
Subject: Re: temp gauge

Wesley Harris wrote:

> I've got the early IIA temp gauge deal and (shocker) it doesn't work.
> This
> is the ether-filed tube, no?  Is there any electronic sensor I can
> substitute for this?  Is it worthwhile/cost effective to get the old
> one
> mended?

Nissonger in New York repairs British car gauges. The advertise in
Hemmings. I don't have any experience with them, but they have been
recommended in the past on this list.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:32:04 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: "Sticky" Clutch

>:when the engine is warmed up.  It is difficult to engage first smoothly -
>:it is like the whole thing sticks immediately as I begin to lift the pedal.
>:Slipping the clutch smoothly is imposible.

>Can you get it in first or reverse gear with out it crunching?  A not
>fully disengaging clutch makes it really hard to engage first and reverse.
>A leaking slave can very easily cause this behavior.  Of course, what you
>need a clutch for anyways?

Hi David - Thanks for the reply -
Yea - no crunching on anything - just a real "stickness" that makes things
difficult.
P - re-placing me c-slave soon - K

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:32:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Steaming away in Southern Colorado!

>...Took a peek at oil dipstick and have "Mayonaise" on bottom of stick.
Hi Art - I had this in my block - scary!  I was traveling @ 60mphs for
about 3 or 4 hours in cold cold weather.  I was near DAP, on a Sunday
evening, mind you. I decided to drive there immediately and sleep in the
parking lot 'till they opened.  Damn it was cold that night!  Trying to
sleep in a 88tub just plain sucks!!  Anyway - I spoke with Bruce in the
morning and he said that when it is cold, and you've got a significant
amount of blowby, and your driving at 60mphs for hours - this is the result.

Is that true?

Anyway, I decided to get to my parents in MA after that.  All that was last
winter, and no problems since.  My compression was 125 across the four last
I checked.

Is there oil in your coolant?
Drink some Guinness and then do the compression testing...
If your head gasket is blown, drink more Guinness,
otherwise... drink more Guinness.

Cheers - Keep us posted - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:26:55 -0800
Subject: Josh's Brakes

Josh;

I have used the Mity-Vac many times to bleed both my brakes and clutch.
This system works great, especially when I'm away from home and don't have
the misses to help with the pedal work.  From what it sounds you have
replaced all the major components, BUT as many of us have seen before if you
don't have the snail cams adjusted out with a little drag on the drums,
Bleeding is often futile.

Hurricane Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:37:32 -0800
Subject: Arts Cooling with Mayo

Art;

Do the compression check!  also did you by chance notice any white smoke
coming from the exhaust?  Sounds like your thermostat went and the head or
gasket followed.  Rad cap was also probably just a victim of the major
amount of heat.  Mayo on the dipstick is a sure sign of H2O in the oil.  Had
to get there somehow and the gasket hopefully went with out cracking the
head.  I once had the head on a F*rd Escort crack and as long as I was
moving it wasn't noticeable, but when I stopped for a light the whole
intersection would fill with white smoke from my tailpipe.  As the glycol
burned it produces a white smoke.  Luckily the pistons/rings were good and
no water got to the sump.  Drove 300+miles that way until I could get a new
head.  You will also want to check your valve springs.  Overheated the
Dinosaur once and the excessive heat rendered a few of my valve springs
weak.  You could push them down with your finger.  Changed them all.

Hurricane Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 09:00:27 -0800
Subject: Re: snorkels

TBache9248@aol.com wrote:

> Intake air is cooler,  more dense (turbo'd engines you know),

I've actually taken thermocouple measurements (OK on my D90 not the 109 :) )
andthere is a significant difference.  The engine bay can get up to 150 (F) 
during
idle and drops closer to ambient during cruise, so there's something to be said
for this.  I put
my snorkle on mostly as insurance for reckless water crossings but I believe 
that
the colder air that gets sucked in at least counteracts possible airflow
restriction.  I've no
dyno data but I noticed no power loss on installation.

Jeremy

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:57:51 -0600
Subject: Repairing gauges

Following a recommendation on this list I used Nissonger's in New York state
to repair my broken ammeter.  I found their service to be quick and
courteous.

David Hope
64llA

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:45:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Front oil seal

According to the LR parts catalogue, page 1E 08 ref 1RE 286 the
retaining plate (#247766) is fixed to the front cover (554541) by six
slotted screws (AB606021L) holding the seal (ERC7987) in place.

But I cannot check mine until I remove the pully wheel - which according
to all replies is almost welded on to the cranckshaft!

So lets see... (there goes another Christmas...)

Adrian Redmond

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:06:52 -0000
Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants

Someone said....

>D90 with monster tires, roof rack, branch deflectors, highlift, shovel,
>pick-axe,  winch, rock-sliders, etc.  Great looking Defender fully
>equipped, but what is wrong with this picture.  NOT A SPECK OF
>DIRT OR EVEN THE SLIGHTEST SCRATCH.

Well? Just because someone has some pride in their vehicle? My SIII 109"
gets liberal coatings of mud, but I do clean it all off, and with it being
matt, most scratches are easily removed and/or repainted. They can look good
and still function you know!

Neil

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 14:25:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants

On Sun, 20 Dec 1998, Neil Brownlee wrote:

:Well? Just because someone has some pride in their vehicle? My SIII 109"
:gets liberal coatings of mud, but I do clean it all off, and with it being

You do know we can't talk to you anymore, don't you?

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:35:02 -0000
Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants

hey, it's only water I use ... not w*x!

Neil

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:35:03 +0100
Subject: Paint

I tried black Hammerite for the first thime this summer. I have just
stripped part of my 88" again to replace the radiator, and I can see
that some parts - like the bottom plate under the springs, the springs,
and the chassis around the front axle are already wearing thin.

Hammerite is much more expensive and difficult to use than the common or
garden marine machinery enamel black which I was using before.

So I guess it's back to the old stuff -cheap and easy to use. better do
a patch up whilæst I've got it accessible.

:-(

Adrian Redmond

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:37:31 -0000
Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants

I only use water guys! Sob sob, I'm off to cry into my Jennings!

Neil

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 10:04:10 -1000
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding

>Lots of reoccuring bubbles, All
>found in rear lines of rig.    Tanks for any help
>ps. She's a 68' SIIA Military RHD 109"

Sounds like you might have a loose fitting allowing air into the system
Pete

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From: "Steve Rochna" <mns@oasisol.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 12:21:40 -0800
Subject: Interior trim

All:

I have the plastic and foam covered metal trim pieces pulled out of my SIII
88" kicking around in my garage.  I'm going to throw them out unless
someone out there wants them.  Let me know.

Steve

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 08:24:37 -0000
Subject: Re: disclipined simians

Adrian,
I thought it was because only a w*nk*r would buy a J**p  and what he was
doing proves it....

Bit like my friend who had a vasectomy - had to go back to give a "sample"
so he now cannot argue if anyone calls him a W*nk*r

LR content, he's got a 110  (lives in Dublin so gets real Guinness) and is
supposed to be getting on the list - are you there yet Ernie...?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:10:15 -0500
Subject: Re: Interior trim

Steve Rochna wrote:
> All:
> I have the plastic and foam covered metal trim pieces pulled out of my SIII
> 88" kicking around in my garage.  I'm going to throw them out unless
> someone out there wants them.  Let me know.
> Steve

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Steve
>From past experience..as soon as you throw it out,
you will need it
Why is that?
Happy Holidays
Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 14:15:36 -0800
Subject: Brake Bleeding

I bought one (cool tool) BUT the nipples at the brake cylinders leak air
INTO the line when you apply "vacuum" to them to bleed the brakes.  You
can't tell if you got it all.  I found it useful for sucking out all the
old crappy fluid, but I still bleed them the old-fashioned way, with my son
pumping the brake pedal.

bboT

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:21:58 +1000
Subject: Re: styrofoam

 "Peter M. Kaskan"  writes
Hi All - I'm going to insulate my roof with some styrofoam  . . .etc

I'm sure it will work o.k. - I considered the same a few years ago after
seeing how easilt it burns and the gasses given off when it does burn

I know we don't want a fire in the back of the Landy, but if there was the
smoke might kill you

Just my thoughts - I used that high density foam - advertised as fire
resistant, but the fumes are probably just as deadly :-(

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:21:57 -0000
Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants 

87 ISTR, can't be bothered to reach across my office to look it up  ( and
if you saw the state of my files you'd know why)  or phone George Bee at
this time of night - they
used Turbo D Rangies (the VM engined ones) my mate George Bee who was one
half of the British Team now owns the Rangie he did it in and is rebuilding
it in between building his very potent Ninety.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:12:57 -0000
Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! 

Hi gang, best idea is Red Lead, with any old black, I know people who use
cheap gloss, over the top. The red lead does the protecting and the black
just looks good - and takes a few minutes to bang back on when it wears off.

Of course, if you've got a galvanised chassis like I have.... who needs
anything else :-)>
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:30:06 -0000
Subject: Re: Jeep in the hole

so how many fingers were actually in the air during this wave?

about 4wd on ice etc.
I picked up a leaflet in a Vauxhall (GM) garage once. It was extolling the
wonders of their 4WD (a Frontera over here - total sh*t), and they had a
famous rally driver writing: 'When I am away around the world  rallying I am
happy to know that my wife is taking the children to school, over icy
mountain roads in total safety driving our Frontera' I cringed - and then
wrote an attack in my column. OK so I know he was doing it for money but was
the man completely mad?

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:33:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Front engine cover seal leaking

beg to differ Nate,
 a six foot length of pipe over a wrench or socket handle is surely the Land
Rover version of finesse.....granted there may be other definitions
but........
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:40:30 -0000
Subject: hi there
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hello to Scot Wilson,
it was nice to see you over here in the UK, hope you liked the Thwaites' =
Mild and enjoyed yr visit to Steve Parker Land Rovers
sorry we couldn't do any off-roading but next time we'll have a proper =
trip organised. Y'all come back y'hear.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+           
     I !__|  [_]|_\___  
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:09:28 EST
Subject: Basil's almost on the level....

Got the rear spring on the passenger side installed today.  Meant to do it
yesterday but since we had our Christmas dinner/dance last night, I decided to
try and stay halfway clean.  

Basil sits more level and I suspect he'll settle down a little more over the
next few weeks. It was a bit easier this time around. I was advised off-line
that LR didn't make any distinction in NADA LR's and that BP is the only
vendor that sells different springs for each side.

I don't want to start another debate but the plan was to replace the passenger
side and if that didn't work, take the old passenger springs and put them on
the driver's side. 

I also check the fluids in the tranny and the transfer case.  The tranny was a
little low (leaks and migration to the transfer case) so I leveled it off and
drained a bit from the transfer case.  Also changed the oil in the overdrive.

Next step:  start to play with the welder and get ready to replace the rear
crossmember.  If I can get that done before the 30th, I'll use Basil on the
upcoming Mojave trip that runs through the 3rd of Jan.  Should be cold at
least to someone from PHX!

Happy holidays to all....
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
'63 Series IIA88" SW  " Soldado Sangrando "
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior/front/bulkhead currently
in pieces)
'73 Series III 88" Soft top "Basil"  
'95 Disco "Great White"

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From: Chris Stevens <chrisste@clark.net>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:02:46 -0500
Subject: Sputtering Again

Hey folks,

Once again my SIIA is in the sputter mode. The thing seems to start missing
horribly--with sporadic backfiring--after driving for 15 or 20 minutes.
Kinda like a loose plug wire or something. I've replaced the plug wires,
points, condensor, rotor and cap and no luck. I'm also having a hard time
setting an idle--have to advance the timing to get the Rover to run. Anyone
have any experience with this? Could it be a faulty distributor (how can I
tell), timing chain, coil?

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:04:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Arts Cooling with Mayo

> Mayo on the dipstick is a sure sign of H2O in the oil.  Had
> to get there somehow and the gasket hopefully went with out cracking
> the
> head.

Mayo on the dipstick is a sign of water in the crankcase. But...it
doesn't necessarially mean either a blown head gasket or cracked head or
block. It may be from the condensation of blowby gases. Blowby contains
a lot of water vapor which is a main product of combustion.

It's unusual for a blown head gasket to result in coolant directly into
the crankcase. Usually head gaskets blow between a cylinder and
somewhere else. If the somewhere else is a cooling passage then coolant
can be sucked into the cylinder which will usually result in a steam
trail out of the exhaust, and a very clean combustion chamber. My
experience is that mayo is present in a lot of vehicles in the winter
until they are thoroughly warm.

Car Talk had a call today from a fellow with a Ford who spent $2600 on
engine repairs after discovering his dipstick was rusty. Their diagnosis
was he should have replace the dipstick because all engines have water
in the crankcase as the result of  condensation, and probably nothing
was wrong with the engine.

Art's sympton of steam pouring out of the radiator overflow sounds like
the engine overheating, possibly from a failed thermostat and the
radiator cap opening. This may have been the cause of the rad cap
disintegrating. I'd check compression before assuming a blown head
gasket.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:10:32 -0500
Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question!

Frank Elson wrote:

> Hi gang, best idea is Red Lead, with any old black, I know people who
> use
> cheap gloss, over the top. The red lead does the protecting and the
> black
> just looks good - and takes a few minutes to bang back on when it
> wears off.

Red Lead paint is very difficult to find in the US since it contains
lead. It isn't legal to sell it for household use. Rockland Boat in
Rockland, ME is one source. It's not cheap, and the front has warnings
of the dire concequences of use. If you do use it make sure no infants
chew on your LR.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "Piet Fourie : pah@saao.ac.za" <pah@saao.ac.za>
Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 09:33:34 +0200 (SAT)
Subject: Re: Sputtering Again

Hi Chris

Have a look at the auto advance in the distributor.  Turn the rotor
anti-clock wise and it should snap back.  If it does not then it may be
that the shaft requiren a bit of oil. To oil remove the rotor and add a
few drops of oil.

I had a similar problem on my series one and the problem was two fold. One
the shaft was dry but the real serious bit was the springs on the counter
weights of the advance mech.  They were gone, grounded up and evenly
distributed on the inside of the distributor.  If that happens you may
find that the vehicly will backfire if you start to slow down or go down a
hill.

It is not a major job to fix.  I once did it in the middle of nowhere with
a piece of wire in place of the springs.

Best luck

Piet

1955 S1
1980 RR

P.A.H. Fourie   ( pah@saao.ac.za )
South African Astronomical Observatory.
P.O. Box 25 Sutherland 6920 South Africa.
Tel 023 5711135. Fax 023 5711413

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:33:04 +0200
Subject: RE: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question!

|In restoring (ie. getting it to move under its own power) I
|was wondering
|is it best to have the axles and springs removed and sand blasted, then
|painted , or just leave them on the fram and sandblast as good
|as possible then paint?

Chris, after attempting to wire brush my rear axle and getting nowhere fast,
I took the axle and springs in for sand blasting.  All I did was to remove
the wheels, I left the break pipes etc. all attached (they have to be
replaced anyway). It  made a big difference, especially, in those places
where the brush could not reach.  I immediately coated the whole lot with
rust converter when I got it back.  It made stripping of the axle much
easier.  I suppose the difference is that I needed the axle clean before I
got into its innards and I was fighting 40 odd years of gunk and rust.

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'52 S1 80" LHD

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