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From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 07:32:27 -0800
Subject: Cold

>The second time, I thought I was ready, or so i thought...had one of the
>percolator-type block heaters that you splice into the heater return

hose.
>Engine started fine, but the gearshift lever broke off flush at the ball
>due to the extreme cold.  Windchills that day were over 100 below....

Three words, Sandy: Move someplace warmer!!!!!!

Mark

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 10:37:16 -0400
Subject: Two piece wheels

Well, we're in hour new house, finally, and not too much was lost by
the moving company. Not counting the tools and spares that were
stolen from my L/R in Omaha. One thing that *was* lost is one half of
one of my two piece wheels. So, does anyone know a source for Land
Rover two piece wheels as used on MoD Rovers?
Cheers.

ps  I'll update my address etc with the BB directory as soon as I
find the contact e-mail.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 17:21:43 +0100
Subject: Re: AOL COMMENTS

Don't take the AOL comments too seriously - just our way of welcoming
you to the pub.

It's just that in my years of being on this list nearly all the people
who write in capital letters have an AOL address - seems to be the
fashion there - and just like you get offended by my signature file bien
a few lines longer than yours, well some of us find capital letters
harder to read - may be old age, may be not.

In case you don't know - there are very few rules on this list - most of
us have just behaved the way we think right until someone else tells us
otherwise - just like any other pub. There is no rule about complaining
- far from it - this list has many contributions where one subscriber
tells us all of some bad experience they have had with one supplier,
dealer or individual or another. Sometimes these postings speak for
themselves, and we all note the content if it is relevent to our needs,
sometimes the postings will result in a heated discussion about the
complaint or the way in which it was posted - funnily enough, quite a
few of us here have different opinions about such things, and most of us
tend to express them.

But don't think that with 30,000 miles rovering a year you will be
unique on this list - most of us have Rovers as daily drivers, many of
us have more than one, and most of us have driven them for years - at
the end of the day that is not what matters. Often someone who has just
bought their first Rover will give us all a grain of wisdom which we
have missed, whilst many of us who have driven Landies for years will
also admit to some foolish mistake which we should have avoided by years
of experience. New subscribers are more than welcome, new owners are
more than welcome, and even drivers with 30K mileage are welcome here.

There may however be one "unwritten" rule to this list - not expressed
often in writing and not enforced by the means usually employed by other
lists - but there all the same. This is not a newsgroup in the
traditional sense, where everyone shouts at each other and calls each
other an idiot if they disagree. Try it by all means, but this list is
different. Stay around for a few weeks,months or years and you will see
what I mean.

So - no offence intended - welcome, but please STOP SHOUTING!

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:45:16 EST
Subject: Re: Attach the spring to axle the shackles.

In a message dated 12/19/98 12:32:56 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
ogilvi@hgea.org writes:

<< 	I used to put the shackles together first then attach the axle.  Granny
 suggested the other way around.  Much easier to attach the spring to the
 axle then the front pin, then the rear.  Used one floor jack to make the
 installation. >>

That's exactly what I ended up doing after not succeeding the other way!  I
guess there is no wrong or easy way..... just getting it done with any means
possible.

Thanks for the confirmation!

Happy holidays....
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: David <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 12:02:15 -0500
Subject: Re: curious sighting

The same is true on Nantucket (located right next to MV, only smaller). My
wife and I found at least 7-8 Series trucks last time we were there. I
think it's pretty unique considering the population in winter is only
around 5-6,000. It's also whre I saw my first Rover 20+ years ago.

Maybe sales were good because the al bodies were advertised not to rust in
the sea air.

>From: "Jeff and Chris Jackson" <jcjcj88@email.msn.com>

>It's a curious thing, but Martha's Vineyard (the island off the coast of
>Massachusetts which Sandy wrote about) has a good population of old Series
>trucks.  I saw two or three in just the day I was there last summer.  It
>seems that the year-round residents find them to be just the thing for
>island duty.  Lots of slow, twisty roads and a bit of snow and ice each
>winter.   I wonder if there was a dealer on Cape Cod?
>Jeff

David Russell
Member: OVLR, R.O.V.E.R.S. and the MostlyMetro group
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol, green; in progress
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

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From: "Kevin and Crew" <willeys@cyberus.ca>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 12:22:26 -0500
Subject: re: sandblasting
	charset="iso-8859-1"

anyone ever try ice blasting
the municipal hydro co. I formerly worked for used this method to clean =
switchgear without taking it out of service.  Does a great job and on =
loss of metal.
Kevin Willey
1996 disk (Edith),
1973 lightweight,
1987 Merlin, 1998 True North soft tail(full booing)
Humors hum but Land Rovers know the words !

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 98 09:30:57 -0800
Subject: Re: AOL COMMENTS

Adrian that was a very diplomatic posting.  Maybe you should become top 
negotiator for the peace talks dujour.  

I missed the original posting.  It must have been on a thread that didn't 
look interesting enough for me to open.

Impressive reply.  Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 98 09:49:06 -0800
Subject: OOPPPS Re: AOL COMMENTS

Sorry guys I forgot to change the headers.  That was supposed to go to 
Adrian & not the list.  You would think that after almost 13 years on the 
internet I would stop making these dumb mistakes.

Sorry again

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 08:00:18 -1000
Subject: Dropped messages (was Re: AOL COMMENTS)

>I missed the original posting.  It must have been on a thread that didn't
>look interesting enough for me to open.

I missed the original also.  I have been noticing that a bit lately (past
week or so).
I glance at the single mailer when  it comes in and I am seeing a number
each day that did not come to me directly.  Even stranger I am sometimes
getting a posting as much as a day after everyone else.  By this I mean that
I start receiving the reply's before the original post.
Anyone else?
Aloha and Mele Kalikimaka
Pete

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 19:35:54 +0100
Subject: Re: AOL COMMENTS

There's one other thing I forgot to mention about this list, in reply to
our new AOL friend.

Whilst many of us enjoy threads about which gadgets to buy and fit onto
our trucks, most of the correspondance (well the LR related at least) is
about repair and maintenance - jobs which most of us do ourselves.
Anyone can order some shiny aftermarket gizmo, and some of us do - but
most of us are just trying to get original or partly original Land
Rovers to function properly without resorting to cosmetic gadgets.

That too is something which makes this a list and not a newsgroup

Happy Christmas

Adrian Redmond

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 19:43:58 +0100
Subject: Lateral thinking needed on cooling problem

I'm in need of some lateral thinking. Let me explain the problem.

Series III 88" Diesel - just rebuilt this summer.

Cooling system keeps losing coolant. Open the bonnet/hood just after a
drive and find dripping coolant waste all over motor compartment and
steam from around radiator/fan area.

But - the temp guage doesn't rise much above Normal, and the motor keeps
on running.

Refill Rad with coolant - Park vehicle on dry, clean surface and leave
running for two hours. Inspect. No drips under front axle, no spray on
engine compartment, a little steam rising from rad/fan area, temp guage
reads normal. No unusual noises or engine behaviour.

Remove radiator grille - space between rad fins is wet on right hand
side of rad. No visible damage.

Temperatures at night have been well below zero but cooling system is
winterised to minus 30 C

----------

OK - I guess the radiator is leaking - the hose joints seemed ok, and
there was no other evidence of leaks - no water around water pump
bearing, heater valve etc. So maybe a new rad and hoses will fix it.

Question - then why does the temp guage not rise as the system drains -
the above refill normally needs about 2 - 3 litres - surely this is
enough (if missing) to overheat?

Any bright ideas out there?

Adrian Redmond

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 19:48:09 +0100
Subject: Front engine cover seal leaking

On removing my radiator, I discovered that my engine is leaking a little
oil (easy to spot as the block is newly painted). It seems to be coming
from the seal behind the lower cranckshaft pulley wheel (where the
starting handle fits)

Question - is this serious (I know it's normal!) I doubt if the quantity
is a problem.

I have ordered a spare, but I seem to remember that when i did the
rebuild in the summer, I tried to remove the pulley wheel to paint and
maybe check the timing chain, and I could not get it loose - so if I
have to loosen this - does anyone have any good tricks?

If the pulley wheel is removed, is the oil seal easy to change (looks
like it sits behind a retaining plate held in place by six screws to me)

Has anyone tried this?

Adrian Redmond

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:10:18 -0400
Subject: Re: Guisness taste / ramblin'

Trac Edges are made by BF Goodrich so any of their dealers can get em for you.
John and Muddy

"Peter M. Kaskan" wrote:

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:43:51 -0400
Subject: Re: Front engine cover seal leaking

To remove the crankshaft pulley I use an air impact wrench with an extension
through the starting handle hole. I know that many don't have these tools. I
then ues a 3 leg puller to take the pulley off. If the engine has never been
touched  the seal will have to come out after the timing cover has been
removed. If some thoughtful PO
has been at it you can remove the scews that hold the protective plate and
pull the seal without removing the cover. Check the pulley for a seal groove
wear pattern.
John and Muddy

Adrian Redmond wrote:

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 16:30:18 EST
Subject: Re: Dropped messages (was Re: AOL COMMENTS)

In a message dated 98-12-19 13:08:35 EST, you write:

<< >I missed the original posting.  It must have been on a thread that didn't
 >look interesting enough for me to open.
 >>

Ya: It seems that der kommandant at Stalag AOL ist censoring der post!

Charles(aka Karl)

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:23:32 -0700
Subject: Steaming away in Southern Colorado!

Hey all!!

Started heading up to Colorado Springs at Noon toady in 20 degree
weather. Heater wasn't working (blowing cold air)even though temp gauge
was at normal posistion. About 2 miles into trip, temp gauge took a trip
towards red, and steam started pouring out from the overflow on radiator
neck (steam had blown off hose to tank.) Have SIII radiator setup.

Ok, I thought, the thermostat bit the dust. Pulled over to the side of
interstate and pulled the thermostat, dumped water down the
housing-engine seemed to be empty (? radiator full)and carried on. Got
heat, keeping an eye on the temp gauge as it rises to hot.Pulled over
(heading back to home) and let it run while I checked it out. Hose came
off the radiator overflow again, slowly removed cap, which promptly fell
to pieces (cap, spring and inner metal piece which goes into radiator.
Took a peek at oil dipstick and have "Mayonaise" on bottom of stick.
Stuffed rag into raditor neck and limped home.

The symptoms I was having a first are ecactly like a bad thermostat. But
with it out, I would expect colder than normal on temp gauge and little
heat from heater. But then there's the broken Radiator cap, and the Mayo
in oil. Could a blown head gasket be the problem? Haven't taken any
compression readings yet (scared too!!)

Any ideas?

Art (taking the Greyhound tonite)
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 17:27:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: "Sticky" Clutch

Hi All -
	I think my clutch is acting up - more and more.  It seems to happen
when the engine is warmed up.  It is difficult to engage first smoothly -
it is like the whole thing sticks immediately as I begin to lift the pedal.
Slipping the clutch smoothly is imposible.
	I know my clutch slave cyl is leaking - so I plan to replace that
in a week or so.  Could the leaking slave produce this problem?  Or is it
"GASP!" oil leaking into the bell housing?  I recently ran my heater hoses
by the slave cylinder - but I'm pretty sure it was doing the same thing
before I passed the hoses there.  I seem to remember reading a while back
that heat and H2O in the slave would lead to this.
	Any other shifting is not a problem - just getting into first.  If
you've got some advice for me, can you send them to my pmk11@cornell.edu
account - because the server where I subscribe to the list is f-ed again.
Reguards - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 17:34:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Paint for Styrofoam

Hi All - I'm going to insulate my roof with some styrofoam I've sitting
about.  I'd like to paint it so it is a bit more durable - untill I get
around to covering the styrofoam with some plastic paneling - which is not
currently sitting about.  Any ideas on what type of paint or sealer I
should use?  The local paint store didn't have anything special - he said
just use some standard acrylic sealer.

Please reply to pmk11@cornell.edu as the other server is out of commission.

Thanks in Advance - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:40:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Dropped messages (was Re: AOL COMMENTS)

Don't feel left out, all that stuff goes on here also.
Jim Hall

Peter Hope wrote:
> >I missed the original posting.  It must have been on a thread that didn't
> >look interesting enough for me to open.
> I missed the original also.  I have been noticing that a bit lately (past
> week or so).
> I glance at the single mailer when  it comes in and I am seeing a number
> each day that did not come to me directly.  Even stranger I am sometimes
> getting a posting as much as a day after everyone else.  By this I mean that
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> I start receiving the reply's before the original post.
> Anyone else?

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From: Robert McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 17:48:32 -0500
Subject: series 2a wiper motors

suzy has gotten a bout of prince of darkness fever. as there has been no
rain the past couple of months, haven't had to use the wipers till this
past week. these are the individual 2a motors, never had problems before.
now BOTH are refusing to turn. they have power and are grounded. took the
cover off of one and i can turn the armature and there is power inside of
the housing, sprayed some wd40 to clean things up a bit, any ideas? never
took one apart before so i'm not familiar with what to check for. strange
that they both would stop working at the same time. thanks in advance

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:50:12 -0700
Subject: Jeep in the hole

Today it snowed in Seattle, or at least it did in the hills east of the
city.  A whopping one inch or so.  I needed to change the too-weak coolant
mixture in the Range Rover and didn't feel like making a mess all over the
garage.  Why the folks who build the Range Rover's radiator elected not to
put a drain plug in the bottom like on my Series III is beyond me. "Remove
the lower radiator hose" are the shop manual instructions for draining the
coolant from a Range Rover.   Dumb.  Anyway, I decided to drive the Series
III to the local hardware store and get six feet of clear plastic tubing to
siphon the coolant out through the small fill hole in the top of the Range
Rover's radiator.  The reason the coolant mixture was weak is too long a
story for here, but I can tell you that the siphon system works great; I
pulled out 2 gallons of coolant which was more than enough for what I
needed to do.

Alongside the road to the store is a water catchment basin, roughly the
size of a football field and perhaps fifteen feet deep with sides that
slope at perhaps 30 degrees, maybe a little more.  The basin and sides are
grass-covered.  Sitting about a third of the way down the slope into the
basin was a Jeep Grand Cherokee.  It appeared to have slid off the paved
road that descends past one end of the basin.  It then went through the
wooden fence surrounding the basin and partway down the slope, stopping in
a sidehill position with the front pointing a bit downhill.  The vehicle
was surrounded by four or five guys, who were obviously trying to figure
out what to do.  To me, it looked like the sort of situation where, if you
are in a Land Rover, you engage first-low, drive down into the bottom of
the basin, turn around, and drive out again.  But the folks with the Grand
Cherokee hadn't appeared to have figured this out yet, or they were afraid
the vehicle would roll if they tried to move it, or they were afraid of
scratching the paint.

My wife and I had a hard time figuring out how this "vehicle that wrote the
book on four wheel drive" got into this predicament in the first place.  We
finally decided it was a case of "I've-got-
four-wheel-drive-so-I-can-go-anywhere-as-fast-as-I-damn-well-please"
syndrome.  While there wasn't much snow, the roads were pretty icy, so we
guessed he lost it going too fast on the downhill curve.  Four-wheel drive
might as well be no-wheel drive on ice, but not very many 4wd drivers seem
to know that anymore.

As we drove by on the main road, one of them pointed at our Land Rover and
they all watched me drive by.  So we waved.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 18:21:50 EST
Subject: Re: Front engine cover seal leaking

In a message dated 12/19/98 1:50:28 PM Eastern Standard Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< I have ordered a spare, but I seem to remember that when i did the
 rebuild in the summer, I tried to remove the pulley wheel to paint and
 maybe check the timing chain, and I could not get it loose - so if I
 have to loosen this - does anyone have any good tricks?
  >>

For the starter dog (that big nut with the claws for the starter handle),
there are several tricks which have been mentioned.  For me, I have removed it
by putting on the socket and socket handle and a 6 foot length of pipe (wings
removed).  Others have mentioned putting the socket handle in position so that
the frame blocks it and hit the starter a few times to break it loose.  

Anyway you look at it, there is no finesse involved here.

Nate

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:46:55
Subject: Re: Lateral thinking needed on cooling problem

	If you have a good radiator shop around they may be able to fix the
problem if it is the old style radiator.  The new ones are throw always
when things go south.  Like most things on the old series rovers, the
radiators used to be built for the long run so can be soldered until the
fins are no longer on the tubing and even then, the radiators will still
cool.  You might look into it if you don't want to invest in a new
radiator.  A shop might also be able to recore the old radiator cheaper
than buying new.
	Before I removed the radiator, I'd throw in some "stop leak" additive.
Found that the stuff will handle some pretty severe leaks for a long time.
Definitely cheaper and easier than replacing the radiator.
	As far as engine not registering loss of water, I've found that the 
system
will cool until there is virtually no water in the system.  The coolant
system is definitely designed for Sahara type conditions.  The best
indication of the amount of water in the system, without actually pulling
the cap and filling it up, is the old style temp gauge.  When the system is
low on water, it will rise at least 10 degrees above what is normal after
the engine is turned off.  On mine, it rises from its normal 80 degrees c
to a peak of 90-95 degrees shortly after shut down when it is half full or
more.  When the system is low on water, it will climb into the red, 100c
degrees plus after shut down. Exact readings probably vary from rover to
rover, so noting the temp after shut down with a full system will give you
an idea what is normal in yours.  I'd had mine for ten years before I
noticed that the water temp rose after shut down.
	If you don't have one, a 3/4" drive breaker bar with the appropriate
socket is almost a necessity to get the nut off.  Healthy investment for a
one time use item but will allow you to turn the engine over by hand.  If
you need the American equivalent for the socket, I've got it in the garage
and can check it for you.  The SAE size socket has a bit of slop in it.
Think the nut is actually a BS size but the metric equivalent may fit
better than the SAE socket.
	Using the starter to remove the nut is the most elegant fix to me.  Just
don't allow the breaker bar any wind up as it would probably put a healthy
dent in the frame or something else that got in the way.

Aloha Peter

At 07:43 PM 12/19/98 +0100, you wrote:
>I'm in need of some lateral thinking. Let me explain the problem.
>Series III 88" Diesel - just rebuilt this summer.
>Cooling system keeps losing coolant. Open the bonnet/hood just after a
>drive and find dripping coolant waste all over motor compartment and
>steam from around radiator/fan area.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 37 lines)]
>Any bright ideas out there?
>Adrian Redmond

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 21:28:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: "Sticky" Clutch

On Sat, 19 Dec 1998, Peter M. Kaskan wrote:

:when the engine is warmed up.  It is difficult to engage first smoothly -
:it is like the whole thing sticks immediately as I begin to lift the pedal.
:Slipping the clutch smoothly is imposible.
:	I know my clutch slave cyl is leaking - so I plan to replace that

Can you get it in first or reverse gear with out it crunching?  A not
fully disengaging clutch makes it really hard to engage first and reverse.
A leaking slave can very easily cause this behavior.  Of course, what you
need a clutch for anyways?  

David

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 16:35:59 -1000
Subject: Re: Paint for Styrofoam

>Hi All - I'm going to insulate my roof with some styrofoam I've sitting
>about.  I'd like to paint it so it is a bit more durable -

Aloha Peter,
I am assuming that you are talking about closed cell foam, like the .99$
coolers at 7-11?
Did you think about mixing up a batch of fiberglass resin and brushing this
on the foam first?  Would put a nice paintable candy coating on the stuff.
Pete

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 16:51:02
Subject: Re: Paint for Styrofoam

	Styro foam gets eaten by any petroleum product so fiberglass won't work.
Haven't tried it but any latex or water based paint ought to go on styro
foam without eating the stuff.  You can use most house caulk as an adhesive
for the styrofoam, by the way.  You can buy other types of foam that will
not get eaten by resin or adhesives but then you have the fun of coating
them with resin and mat before painting.  
	Most innovative insulator that I've heard of is surplus GI sleeping 
mats.
Its a closed cell foam so won't absorb water like regular foam.  You might
even like the look of the OD color so save yourself any cosmetic upgrades.
May even not get eaten by typical adhesives though I'd check to be sure.  

Aloha Peter

At 04:35 PM 12/4/98 -1000, you wrote:

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From: Josh Patterson <jmp@indy.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:08:12 -0500
Subject: Allen, Lots of rovers 

Lots of old Series Rovers in Jamacia.  Ive got Two (67' 88", 68' 109")
on the island and a 68' 109" here in Indiana,  Also the Police use D90's
and some small Vans.  You sure you wern't in Cuba, just can't see going
there and not seeing, ??? did you stay in an all inclusive.

Jmp
Indpls, IN
Cave JWI

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From: Josh Patterson <jmp@indy.net>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:15:47 -0500
Subject: Brake Bleeding

Has Anyone ever tried to use a mighty vac brake bleeder with their rig?
Ive worked and worked on these brekes to no avail
New mastercylinder
New Drums
New Shoes
New Pistons
New Rear Flex Line
New Rear T Line
Lots of reoccuring bubbles, Brake seem to work till the first accual
STOP sign then o'S__T to the floor, Grabe the hand brake time.  All
found in rear lines of rig.    Tanks for any help
ps. She's a 68' SIIA Military RHD 109"
Jmp 
Indpls, IN
Cave, JWI

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 00:08:03 -0400
Subject: Re: True story

> There is a rumour that Cherokee owners become sexually aroused by the
sight
> of Land Rovers. Monkey spanking is a solitary activity usually performed
in
> the privacy of one's own room.
> John and Muddy
>.
Boy, someone ain't gonna be able to walk when they drive their Cherokee
into my yard next week, eh John!? 
Going to have to through a few tarps over some LR's!

Cheers!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 RR           .....and some LR's that going into hiding!

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 00:13:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Front engine cover seal leaking

>If some thoughtful PO
> has been at it you can remove the scews that hold the protective plate
and
> pull the seal without removing the cover. 
>.
Sure makes the job alot easier. The next trick is getting the woodruff key
to stay in place when re-installing the pully. Maybe a bit of locktite?
I've seen a product in the local Crappy Tire that bonds instantly a screw
and screwdriver together to facilitate easier installation. Anyone use suck
a goo?

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 RR

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 16:55:01 +1100
Subject: Change of my web site URL

All,

I've been updating all my website pages for both the Hillman Owners Club of
Australia (HOCA) and my Rover pages.  If you link to any of my pages, they
all now have .HTM extensions, not .HTML  I'd appreciate it if you would
amend any links.

Reason?  I was doing the initial editing on a Windows 3.1 machine which
wouldn't support 4 character extensions and it was too much hassle to muck
around.

The only pages I haven't yet updated are the Hillman Classified adverts and
the HOCA events pages.

IF anyone finds I've missed something, I'd appreciate an email pointing the
problem out.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
Webmaster Land Rover Owners Club of Australia (Sydney Branch)
Webmaster Hillman Owners Club of Australia

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:34:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Lateral thinking needed on cooling problem

 OK - I guess the radiator is leaking - the hose joints seemed ok, and
 there was no other evidence of leaks - no water around water pump
 bearing, heater valve etc. So maybe a new rad and hoses will fix it.
 Question - then why does the temp guage not rise as the system drains 
 the above refill normally needs about 2 - 3 litres - surely this is
 enough (if missing) to overheat?
 Any bright ideas out there?
 
 Adrian Redmond

A couple of quick ones. You said it has been cold lately, that will
slow any response to overheat. Sender/guage could be stuck, does it
ever move after you start?
Sounds like a crack on the rad somewhere, not an expert but it may be
time to replace.
Smitty

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 22:32:07 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Front engine cover seal leaking

---Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> wrote:
 On removing my radiator, I discovered that my engine is leaking a
little

First the rad, now this. Sounds as if someone missed you while you
were gone....:-)
Smitty

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 11:32:36 +0100
Subject: Re: Lateral thinking needed on cooling problem

I guess the leaking radiator is the problem. Here in Denmark where the
cost of labour is infinatly more than the cost of parts, it seems that
all radiators repairs are undertaken on an exchange basis (they probably
send the old ones to Poland for rebuilding? :-) I've tried the Radweld
fluid, but I don't have great experience with coolant system sealers,
they always seem to work until yet another inconvenient time - then
puddles everywhere.

So I've pulled the rad and will collect an exchange on Tuesday- let's
take it from there....

Happy hols folks

Adrian Redmond

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