1948-1998 Land Rover's 50th Anniversary
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From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 05:28:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: RE: cold At 09:14 PM 12/17/98, you wrote: >part DOWN to -300f and then back UP to +275f over a specified period of >time. You really should check out their web page. >Jim Wolf Guess I missed the original post. Which web page are you referring to? I'd be interested in taking a look. Thanks. Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society Lenexa, Kansas '95 Coniston Green D90 SW '95 Arles Blue D90 SW '93 D110 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 2 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Casey McMullen <st93wxta@drexel.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 09:55:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Guisness taste Here's another Guinness joke my Irish roomate likes to tell: (with non-ethnic alternatives by me) An Englishman (Rangie owner), a Scot (J**p owner), and an Irishman (Series owner) were sitting at a bar. They all ordered a Guinness. When they arrived each one had a fly floating about in the foam. The Englishman (Rangie owner) turned up his nose, pushed it away and asked for another. The Scot (J**p owner) shrugged his shoulders, pulled the fly out and started drinking. The Irishman (Series owner) held the fly over the glass, tapped it on the back, and shouted, "Spit it out! Spit it out!" Cheers, Casey McMullen - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 3 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:02:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Guisness taste / ramblin' >When I were a lad, Guinness seemed a little too bitter to drink a lot >of, so I used to drink Newcastle Brown, then one day a publican in the >Peak District suggested both, half a Guinness and half a Newcastle >Brown, I think he called it Black and Tan. Yea, me too. I was thinking it was too bitter for my liking. Some of the stuff I think is fine bitter-wise is too watery. Yes, I do like the Newcastle. I'll have to try that combo - going out tonight to celebrate the end of classes, and the fact I can finally get back to my research - not to mention my neglected little aluminum friend. I'll insulate the roof, and give her an oil change, check the 90wts, and make my windscreen washer wet arms. Maybe get and install a vacuum guage too. The snow is here in lovely Ithaca! Ouch, that means salty roads : ( I half chewed up an axels worth of tires before I could get the toe-in right last year. My tires are lame enough as it is w/o being half treads - as I found out last night in the snow. I should go buy a new one, and couple it with my spare and put those on. Next set of tires I'll invest in will be for the off road stuff. I've got to blast my 2nd set of rims and paint them first. Thinking about Trac-Edge type in 235-85-16 size. Where could I get these, who makes them? Well - back to work - Peter : ( Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 4 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: jimfoo@uswest.net Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 08:01:00 -0700 Subject: Re: cold http://www.onecryo.com Lorri Paustian wrote: > At 09:14 PM 12/17/98, you wrote: > Guess I missed the original post. Which web page are you referring to? I'd > be interested in taking a look. Thanks. > Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 5 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:15:42 -0500 Subject: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! In restoring (ie. getting it to move under its own power) I was wondering is it best to have the axles and springs removed and sand blasted, then painted , or just leave them on the fram and sandblast as good as possible then paint? what have other done when working from the ground up? Just for the records, engine and bulkhead are still attached. I'm looking to get moving on my project a little more over the holidays. Any info would be helpful. Sorry if this is mundain!! Cheers, Christopher Dillard Dba Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc) 95 Discovery V8i (Rusty II) cdillard@aholdusa.com 55 Series I (???) Greenville, SC USA 55 Series I (The Green Hornet) 1989 Thoroughbred Racehorse (the other Rusty!!) SoLaRos #136 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 6 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:19:07 -0500
Subject: Out in the cold
joseph and sidney wrote:
>>Who needs a battery warmer in a Land Rover? I've successfully used a
>>hand crank in 0 degree weather with a battery that would only click the
>>solenoid shut. (snip)
Adrian retorts:
>Yes - but try hand cranking a diesel 88" :-)
Ahhh, but in *really* cold weather, you'd need arms like the Mighty Joe
Young to crank even a petrol. Been in -35F with the Rover three
times...twice in Vermont, once in Wyoming. The first time in Vermont,
*everything* solidified...crankcase, gearbox, diffs, battery....and I made
the rookie mistake of parking it in gear. Couldn't even shift. Had a
garage-kept j**p drag me for a full 1/2 mile on snowy roads before the
wheels started to turn and the vehicle eventually sputtered to life.
Bought a simple heat lamp that day.
The second time, I thought I was ready, or so i thought...had one of the
percolator-type block heaters that you splice into the heater return hose.
Engine started fine, but the gearshift lever broke off flush at the ball
due to the extreme cold. Windchills that day were over 100 below....
Nowdays, I run with a 400 watt block heater, a 50w battery heater and a 3
amp battery charger. Cheers
*----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
| |
| A. P. ("Sandy") Grice |
| Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd. |
| Association of North American Rover Clubs |
| 1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730 |
|(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
| |
| (original owner) (pre-production) |
*----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*
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]From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard) Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 07:38:03 -0800 Subject: auto tranny Marc Leger said: >Many people here (North America) prefer automatic for city driving, particularly in big city traffic. On the highway there is , of course, no difference as staying in 5th is the same as staying in D (or OD). I think the reason of convinience and easyness is what made automatic catch on big here, even if it is a french invention (Citroen). Most North-Americans can> Out of curiosity, when did the Citroen first use automatic? The Oldsmobile had Hydramatic in 1937! Bob B - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 8 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:32:05 -0500
Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question!
Not mundane - a good question.
If you can keep the sand out of the engine, then by all means do it in place. If
you were planning on replacing the springs and such anyway, then pull the axles
one at a time, blast, paint and reinstall with new springs (and torque the
shackle bolts to.....8*) ).
I've always found a good wirebrushing and such to be just as effective as
sandblasting, but when in Rome...
ajr
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]From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:50:07 -0500 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! ajr wrote:>>> I've always found a good wirebrushing and such to be just as effective as sandblasting, but when in Rome...<<< I've been wire brushing, simply because I didn't have anyone to sanblast, and it seems to work fairly well (except hinders breathing a bit). Just was wondering which was best for the $$$ Cheers, cfd - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 10 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 98 10:41:49 -0500 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! >In restoring (ie. getting it to move under its own power) I was wondering >is it best to have the axles and springs removed and sand blasted, Springs: don't worry about them. you can paint them but it won't get in between the leaves where it counts. Don't bother. They will go back to their natural color in short order. Go ahead and slop some epoxy black on them if you want to try and get them looking spiffy. Axles? I did mine with a grinder/wire wheel combo. Eastwoods Corroless followed up by Chassis Black, which btw is very nice looking paint, and doesn't chip easily, *but* it wears off, the bottom of my engine and tranny x-members and front and rear axle casing are worn down to the red Corroless, which is proving quite more durable. I had mine apart but I was replacing the frmae and springs. I wouldn't sandblast the axles, you can get sand in sensitive places... ouch! later dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 11 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 11:03:55 -0500 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! dave write >>> followed up by Chassis Black, which btw is very nice looking paint, and doesn't chip easily, <<<< Where did you get your chassis black paint?? I found a web site for company called Hirsch Products, but it was pretty darn $$$ for a small amount!! What are some other "less expensive" alternatives? Oh BTW, anyone out there need a spare bonnet? Ive got an extra fom the guy I bought my two series I's from. You make an offer. YOu pay shipping r pick it up. I'm in Greenville SC. Cheers, cfd - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 12 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 09:10:59 -0800 Subject: RE: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! I wire brushed / wheeled the front half of my frame, and sand blasted the back half. Didn't blast the front because engine was still in place. Total time spent scraping front half (not including panel removal) about 20 hours. Total time spent blasting rear half (not including panel removal) about 2 hours. Paul Quin 1961 Series II 88 http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/ Victoria, BC - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 13 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 10:24:22 -0700 Subject: chassis paint (was To sandblast or NOT??) [spamkill: [^d][^2][0-9][0-9][0-9]*\.com[^a-z] input: %s] Chris, after the frameup, I swear by POR-15 (www.por15.com). The matte - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 14 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 18:27:10 +0100 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! Sand-blasting axle housings is a great idea - if you have them metallised (zinc sprayed) afterwards. Don't forget to protect bolt holes so that they don't get filled with zinc. As for springs, sand blasting is a waste of time, and fills the gaps between the leaves with sand, which will soon wear the paint and leaves. Burn of the old paint, and spray with new paint, then spray liberally with old gear oil - or just fit new springs. ASometimes it's necessary to take the cost/time of sand blasting, wire brushing, priming and painting into consideration before writing new parts off as too expensive. Adrian Redmond CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK Foerlevvej 6 Mesing DK-8660 Skanderborg Denmark telephone (office) +45 86 57 22 66 telephone (home) +45 86 57 22 64 telefacsimile / data +45 86 57 24 46 mobile GSM (EFP unit) +45 40 74 75 64 mobile GSM (admin) +45 40 50 22 66 mobile NMT +45 30 86 75 66 e-mail channel6@post2.tele.dk website www.channel6.dk "Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA telephone (907) 230 0359 e-mail channel6@alaska.net Visit the "Native Experience" project website at http://www.channel6.dk/native - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 15 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 18:28:57 +0100 Subject: Re: Out in the cold Correct me if I'm wrong but it is impossible to hand cranck a diesel - at least fast enough to start it - the compression prevents this. Adrian Redmond - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 16 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 98 12:31:15 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! >Total time spent scraping front half (not including panel removal) about 20 >hours. "scraping?" I thought you wire wheeled it. did you use a grinder or a drill? grinders are faster...admittedly, if you have a really good sandblaster its much quicker. I had a cheap one, thought I would do the whole thing, but it took forever so i switched to the grinder. Use dthe sandblaster to do the hard to reach areas. YMMV dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 17 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 98 12:33:55 -0500 Subject: Re[2]: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! dave write >>> followed up by Chassis Black, which btw is very nice looking paint, and doesn't chip easily, <<<< >>Where did you get your chassis black paint?? Eastwoods. in PA. Don't have the numbers offhand, they are prob'ly on the web. Can't remember but I think I used 1 quart to do the whole frame. Comes in spray cans too. later dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 18 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TBache9248@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 12:53:45 EST Subject: snorkels Hi All, Interesting commentary about the snorkles as of late. I agree entirely with Bill Adams, and would like to add one more thought. I work in the heavy truck industry, and virtually all large 18 wheelers have a raised air intake. Intake air is cooler, more dense (turbo'd engines you know),less road debris, and many are not designed to be waterproof before the air filter. also you may notice some trucks have twin air filters. So the idea may have some merit besides asthetics, regardless of your swimming ability. Now we sell parts for this and have a length of ^6" dia. alum tube instock if anyone wants to get carried away....... Tom Bache Avondale, PA - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 19 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 11:20:11 -0700 Subject: chassis paint (was To sandblast or NOT??) Whoops, didn't even realize I was a spammer (that's the worst sort I suppose :-) Let's try again... [spamkill: [^d][^2][0-9][0-9][0-9]*\.com[^a-z] input: %s] Chris, after the frameup, I swear by POR-15 (www.por15.com). The matte - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 20 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 11:10:03 -0800 Subject: Preening The top of the SII 88" tropical roof. From what I've seen the roof and sides are painted the body color, the heat deflector is white/limestone. Striping paint from the Galvanized capping. Try scotch-brite pads. Paint doesn't adhere well to the Galv and the scotch-brite may be abrasive enough to strip it without taking the Galv off. Rhino-hide. Don't know anybody who has seen this in years. Gray vinyl with the imitation hide marks is obtainable but I have never seen an exact copy. Most dont have the black color in the hide marks. Check out http://home.mho.net/mstockdale/index.html to see the Red Dinosaur. 1959 SII 88" Mitch and the Red Dinosaur - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 21 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 11:45:18 -0800 Subject: Cold Starting Don't try this at home On one particularly cold day in Pittsburgh, PA. -20F I went out to start the Dinosaur. Parked outside and with 50 wt oil it wouldn't even turn over, 1000 CCA battery BTW. No electrical outlets nearby so: I fired up the two-burner Coleman stove and placed it on the ground below the oil pan. 45 minutes later the engine turned over. A little later it started. If you ever try this don't raise the stove to the oil pan, just let the heat rise into the engine compartment. Mitch and the Red Dinosaur - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 22 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 11:37:49 -0800 Subject: Raised Air Intakes and other rants Living out here on the edge of the Rocky Mountains, I have seen all sorts of 4WD vehicles with many accessories. Here are a few of the more interesting sites. Most Discoveries are used to get groceries and soccer kids up in the Peoples Republic of Boulder. L*X*S 4x4 (T*y*t* LC) with a raised intake. Sure buddy you take that off-road and through the river. What about the EFI. D90 with monster tires, roof rack, branch deflectors, highlift, shovel, pick-axe, winch, rock-sliders, etc. Great looking Defender fully equipped, but what is wrong with this picture. NOT A SPECK OF DIRT OR EVEN THE SLIGHTEST SCRATCH. F*rd Expedition big useless 4x4 covered with dents, dings, bent bumpers and broken tail-lights. Driven by young high maintenance 2nd wife on cell-phone. AMC Eagle lifted with a winch up front and a Highlift mounted on back. Stupid, Stupid, Stupid Unimog driven by the banjo playing kid from the movie Deliverance. Second one driven by his twin brother. Scary aint it? Rangie painted yellow and black with Camel Trophy badges and stickers. What year did they use Rangies on the CT? Thats all for now Mitch and the Red Dinosaur - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 23 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 14:00:26 -0500 Subject: Re: Re[2]: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! Thanks for the info dave!! Cheers, cfd - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 24 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 11:17:55 -0800 Subject: Re: Preening From: Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen@allina.com> Date: Thu, 17 Dec 98 16:50:13 PST Subject: Preening >I will someday want to paint my 1961 SWB SW back to its original algae-green with grey vinyl. I bet the Trop Roof was white, but just the skin or should the top be white, too? You know that part of the top that has the windows and vents? Assuming the paint scheme was the same in 1961 as it was in the later '60s and early '70s, the roof AND cab sides and ends around the rear and rear side windows should be painted Limestone, as well as the tropical roof. The upper door frames should be painted the body color, in your case green, as well as the entire rear door (assuming you have the one-piece, side-hinged rear door. The easiest way to visualize this is to imagine if you were to remove the hardtop from the vehicle to install a canvas roof (hood). Everything you would lift off (except the rear door) should be Limestone while everything that stays on the vehicle (including the rear door) should be the body color. __________________ C. Marin Faure faurecm@halcyon.com marin.faure@boeing.com (original owner) 1973 Land Rover Series III-88 1991 Range Rover Vogue SE - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 25 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 98 14:12:54 -0500 Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants >AMC Eagle lifted with a winch up front and a Highlift mounted on back. >Stupid, Stupid, Stupid I don't know. SOme of these had low-range I believe... >Unimog driven by the banjo playing kid from the movie Deliverance. Second >one driven by his twin brother. Scary aint it? As unimog owners are wont to be... >Rangie painted yellow and black with Camel Trophy badges and stickers. What >year did they use Rangies on the CT? I forget the year but they did use em... later dave and the little greenHELLraiser - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 26 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 98 14:15:33 -0500 Subject: Re: Preening >Rhino-hide. Don't know anybody who has seen this in years. Gray vinyl with >the imitation hide marks is obtainable but I have never seen an exact copy. >Most dont have the black color in the hide marks. In the new LRO there is a blurb about Exmoor trim or summalikat who has got it now...don't know how good it is though...btw, is that black color in the hide marks really part of the design, or is that just cos its 30 and dirty... later dave - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 27 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 12:35:42 -0700 Subject: chassis paint (was To sandblast or NOT??) Oh, the censorship. One more try, sorry for the bandwidth waste... Chris, after the frameup, I swear by POR-15 (spamkill won't let me tell you the web address). The matte black is a close match to the original after it dries, and since it's self-leveling, you can brush it on and it still looks great. Excellent rust protection and 1 quart (bout 15 bucks) goes a -long- way. Just be sure to use a good degreaser first. BTW I wonder if my frame could win the "most likely to be around for the LR centennial?" It's galvanised, then two coats of POR-15, then LPS-3 (like waxoyl), then 90 wt. rear and 20/50 up front on top of that :-), oh yes, all you nor'easters, no salt in Montana either! -joseph and sidney missoula, mt - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 28 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 98 12:20:55 -0800 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! >Where did you get your chassis black paint?? Eastwood has about every finish for restoring a car. I have a link in my web site. look under land rover:links:commerical links For the fame, springs & axle housing I suggest wire brushing, rust converter goo then a good paint. For sheet metal I suggest removing all rust. TeriAnn Wakeman If you send me direct mail, please Santa Cruz, California start the subject line with TW - twakeman@cruzers.com I will be sure to read the message http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman "How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare" Amelia Earhart 1898-1937 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 29 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:18:01 -0500 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! Thanks to all for the ideas and suggestions. I think that I'm going to go with the brush since I'm almost 50% done and the paint the frame and axles along with the springs w/ black chassis paint. Thanks cfd - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 30 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:21:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Cold Starting >Don't try this at home... >...If you ever try this don't raise the stove to the oil pan, >just let the heat rise into the engine compartment. Hey Mitch - Why? - Other than for any obvious reasons - like lighting things on fire! Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 31 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:30:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: Springs - Givin' 'em the Treatment (was, to sandblast...) >... I think that I'm going to go with the brush since I'm almost >50% done and the paint the frame and axles along with >the springs w/ black chassis paint. Hey Chris - I've only been half paying attention... Did you know you can pull your springs apart, blast 'em, paint them, maybe put some teflon inserts between the leaves? You can even bang the piss out of them to put some life back in 'em. I haven't done it myself, but I've been told how... Peter Peter M. Kaskan Uris Hall 231 Office / 607-255-3382 Dept. Of Psychology Lab / 607-255-6396 Cornell University e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu Ithaca NY 14853 http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 32 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:36:01 -0500 Subject: Re: Springs - Givin' 'em the Treatment (was, to sandblast...) Peter wrote: >>> Did you know you can pull your springs apart, blast 'em, paint them, maybe put some teflon inserts between the leaves? You can even bang the piss out of them to put some life back in 'em. I haven't done it myself, but I've been told how...<<<< and.... I'm listening cfd - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 33 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 17:37:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: Springs - Givin' 'em the Treatment (was, to sandblast...) I Wrote... "Did you know you can pull your springs apart, blast 'em, paint them, maybe put some teflon inserts between the leaves? You can even bang the piss out of them to put some life back in 'em. I haven't done it myself, but I've been told how..." And Chris... "and.... I'm listening" Wasn't sure you wanted to know... Right Then, Here Goes... Pull your springs apart; Remove them... C - shaped type of clamp pressed around each end... put the spring on it's side and get a big chisel and hammer... Beat, Beat more, and continue to beat... Pry it open... But you've got to reuse the parts - so carefull! Re-Sprinin' 'em - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 34 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 15:02:16 -1000 Subject: Eastwood URL >dave write >>> followed >up by Chassis Black, which btw is very nice looking paint, and doesn't chip >easily, <<<< >>>Where did you get your chassis black paint?? >Eastwoods. in PA. Don't have the numbers offhand, they are prob'ly on the web. http://www.eastwoodco.com/ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 35 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 15:13:46 -1000 Subject: Re: Springs - clamps >so we can use the same clamps to put it all >back together. Just wondering if anyone has ever replaced the wrap around type spring clamp with the bolt/roller type of clamp? Suposedly they allow more articulation of the springs because they do not actually touch any of the springs as the wrap type do. Aloha Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 36 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DNDANGER@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 20:23:09 EST Subject: Re: Guisness taste In a message dated 98-12-18 00:39:44 EST, you write: << Aye! Only the strongest for us lads!! Here's to Guinness & LRs!! Cheers - Peter >> Hold that thought I was just on my way to the fridge. Bill Lawrence - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 37 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DNDANGER@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 20:26:29 EST Subject: Re: Guisness taste In a message dated 98-12-18 00:33:08 EST, you write: << I always thought 150 proof Mescal with da worm was a mans drink?? Bottle broke in the back of my 88" when four wheelin once (content :-p ) Aloha and Mele Malikimaka Pete >> Might be if you could really drink it, but what you really do is more like sipping. A pint of Mescal and you can't even find the floor. Bill Lawrence - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 38 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:19:47 Subject: RE: spanking >Yeh I know - but what's the point? OK maybe I'm being really unfunny >here... Don't worry about it... I do believe the reference is to the " Babe magnet" thread 9^). Jim Wolf - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 39 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:35:44 -0500 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! A note from DB: Eastwoods Corroless followed >up by Chassis Black, which btw is very nice looking paint, and doesn't chip >easily, *but* it wears off, the bottom of my engine and tranny x-members and >front and rear axle casing are worn down to the red Corroless, which is proving >quite more durable. Who makes Chassis Black? Allan ( Just back from 10 days in Jamaica and didn't see one LR in over 12 hours on the roads, well - almost roads) - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 40 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Wesley Harris <wharris@midmon.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 20:55:33 -0600 Subject: temp gauge Oi! I've got the early IIA temp gauge deal and (shocker) it doesn't work. This is the ether-filed tube, no? Is there any electronic sensor I can substitute for this? Is it worthwhile/cost effective to get the old one mended? Cheers, Wes Harris '64 IIA 88 "Sick Boy" - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 41 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:54:42 -0500 Subject: Re: Raised Air Intakes and other rants >>Rangie painted yellow and black with Camel Trophy badges and stickers. What >>year did they use Rangies on the CT? >I forget the year but they did use em... Really? They were used on that (non-CT) Darien Gap messup in the 70s but I thought that CT switched from 110s to Discoverys without involving Range Rovers. Allan - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 42 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:04:15 -1000 Subject: Re: Guisness taste ><< I always thought 150 proof Mescal with da worm was a mans drink?? > Bottle broke in the back of my 88" when four wheelin once (content :-p ) > Aloha and Mele Malikimaka > Pete >> >Might be if you could really drink it, but what you really do is more like >sipping. A pint of Mescal and you can't even find the floor. Finding the floor isn't the problem. It's trying to get back up off the floor Monday morning for work. Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 43 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:05:51 -1000 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! > Eastwoods Corroless followed >up by Chassis Black, which btw is very nice >looking paint, and doesn't chip >>easily, *but* it wears off, the bottom of my engine and tranny x-members >and >front and rear axle casing are worn down to the red Corroless, which >is proving >quite more durable. >Who makes Chassis Black? >Allan ( Just back from 10 days in Jamaica and didn't see one LR in over 12 >hours on the roads, well - almost roads) It's ;isted in Eastwoods. But many manufacturers make their own version of it. One of POR_15's top coats is called chassis black. Most automotive and paint stores sell 'chassis black' spray paint. Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 44 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DNDANGER@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:23:37 EST Subject: Fwd: CLINTON'S TESTIMONY BY DR SEUSS My apologies to those of a more sensitive (or leftist) bent. Bill Lawrence --part0_914034218_boundary Content-ID: <0_914034218@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2> [Attachment removed, was 81 lines.] - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 45 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 16:34:37 -1000 Subject: CT Vehicles >>>Rangie painted yellow and black with Camel Trophy badges and stickers. >What >>>year did they use Rangies on the CT? >>I forget the year but they did use em... >Really? They were used on that (non-CT) Darien Gap messup in the 70s but I >thought that CT switched from 110s to Discoverys without involving Range >Rovers. >Allan 81 Sumatra V-8 Range Rover 82 Papua New Guinea Same 83 Kinshasa to Kisangani Series III 88 84 Amazon Basin 110 85 Indonesian Borneo 90 86 Australia 90 87 Madagascar Range Rover 88 Sulawesi 110 89 Transamazonican highway 110 90 Eastern Siberia Dicovery DTI 91 Tanzania-Burundi Disco 92 Guyana Disco 93 Sabah Malaysia Disco 94 Argentina-Chile Disco 95 Mundo Maya Disco 96 Kalimantan Disco 97 Mongolia Disco 98 Tierra Del Fuego Flatlander Aloha Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 46 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: DNDANGER@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:50:32 EST Subject: Re: temp gauge In a message dated 98-12-18 21:01:40 EST, you write: Oi! I've got the early IIA temp gauge deal and (shocker) it doesn't work. This is the ether-filed tube, no? Is there any electronic sensor I can substitute for this? Is it worthwhile/cost effective to get the old one mended? Cheers, Wes Harris '64 IIA 88 "Sick Boy" >> They can be repaired but it is specialty work. If you have any contacts in the sports car community the Austin Healeys used a very similar guage. The main difference was the face color and the fact the temperature scale is in (horrors!!!) Fahrenheit degrees. You would also need to adapt for a different size thread on the pipe fitting into the head. If you are a purist you could change to your old face. I did this several years ago when the thermometer portion failed on my SII and as far as I know the same old guage is still working. Good luck. Bill Lawrence Albq, NM - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 47 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@earthlink.net> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 19:10:14 -0800 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! Allan Smith wrote: > Allan ( Just back from 10 days in Jamaica and didn't see one LR in over 12 > hours on the roads, well - almost roads) That's because you didn't look in the right places! You have to get off the main roads to see 'em. Frank - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 48 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 19:17:53 -1000 Subject: Re: To sandblast or NOT?? THis is the question! >> Allan ( Just back from 10 days in Jamaica and didn't see one LR in over 12 >> hours on the roads, well - almost roads) >That's because you didn't look in the right places! You have to get off the >main roads to see 'em. >Frank Have to agree with frank. I saw over a dozen in one day when we went up into the blue mountains. Most still on the road but a couple were totally overgrown. Aloha Pete - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 49 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: GElam30092@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:18:55 EST Subject: Replacing springs The previous owner of my series III put drivers' springs on all four corners. While I don't expect it to sit perfectly level, I want it to be a bit closer than it sits now. So, I bought new springs for the passenger side. The passenger side front spring is now in place but it was a struggle. Any "BTDT hints" for getting everything to line up easier? I got it done and it wasn't a big deal but I feel like I'm missing something. I used a hi-lift and a small floor lift and it took manipulating them both to get everything lined up. Plus a small strategically placed tap or two... and a bit of *cussin*..... and a longing for a beer..... and a.. nevemind. Thanks in advance! The rear gets done tomorrow morning so responses are greatly appreciated! Happy holidays...... and I enjoyed the Clinton Does Seuss note! Gerry Elam PHX AZ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 50 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 21:34:32 Subject: Re: Attach the spring to axle the shackles. I used to put the shackles together first then attach the axle. Granny suggested the other way around. Much easier to attach the spring to the axle then the front pin, then the rear. Used one floor jack to make the installation. Aloha Peter At 01:18 AM 12/19/98 EST, you wrote: >The previous owner of my series III put drivers' springs on all four corners. >While I don't expect it to sit perfectly level, I want it to be a bit closer >than it sits now. >So, I bought new springs for the passenger side. >The passenger side front spring is now in place but it was a struggle. Any >"BTDT hints" for getting everything to line up easier? I got it done and it [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)] >"BTDT hints" for getting everything to line up easier? I got it done and it >wasn't a big deal but I feel like I'm missing something. I used a hi-lift and >a small floor lift and it took manipulating them both to get everything lined >up. Plus a small strategically placed tap or two... and a bit of >*cussin*..... and a longing for a beer..... and a.. nevemind. >Thanks in advance! The rear gets done tomorrow morning so responses are >greatly appreciated! >Happy holidays...... and I enjoyed the Clinton Does Seuss note! [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)] >Gerry Elam >PHX AZ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 51 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
From: PV0@aol.com Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 05:48:18 EST Subject: post for page I am in the process of buying a 1966 sIIa. Can people please share suggestions on thing to be prepared to do right away to get it in good shape as adaily driver and for use in snow/ winter conditions for back wod snowboarding/ skiing. - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 52 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
[digester: Removing section of: Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ] From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com> Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 05:55:45 -0500 Subject: Re: post for page Buy booster cables... and make sure you battery is well charged. I have a '71 SIIa and it doesn't always start in very cold weather, this is a 25 year old truck! If I could I would install a block heather. It can also be good to put a wool blanket over the engine block and carry a screwdriver and ether to get it started (screwdriver in the carb butterfly and ether in it !). New plugs and spark cables would be a good move. PV0@aol.com wrote: - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -[ <- Message 53 -> end | Table of Contents | <- Digest 981219 -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]
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