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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:12:47 +0000
Subject: re: babe magnets

 (Actually, I once got an emabarrassed wave from a
>anyone to pull up and be able to see in--but I digress....)

Can we be clear about this Mr B? Exactly *what* top was off? Hers,or
the trucks?

Mike Rooth

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:13:05 -0500
Subject: Re: well, it finally died (the alternator)

OK, you really do need to check the bulb for the warning light and make sure
it's good. I've noticed that some of the GM conversions need the bulb and
warning lamp circuit to be connected to work properly - they act like the
alternator's getting seed voltage through that circuit instead of the sense
lead.

Make sure all of the connections are correct - if you can test-lamp 12 volts on
all 3 wires (power, sense and bulb) then you should be fine. If that happens,
then take the alternator back to NAPA and bitch mightily....I would.

On a related note, has anyone else noticed how cheap rebuilt GM alternators are
getting? The local AutoZone has them for $30, with a $10 core charge. It's
getting to the point it's not worth rebuilding them myself anymore...by the time
I buy the bearings, diodes, regulator and the like and do it up it costs almost
that much.

                    ajr

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:18:30 +0000
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

>        Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!

Obviously why the Irish have lousy roads.They drink the stuff straight
from the tanker.

Mike Rooth

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:28:31 -0500
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

Now, now now....let's not be bad-mouthing the Irish, shall we? 8*)

Anyone who can come up with a lovely brew like Guinness and the pleant taste of
a good single-malt Irish whiskey shouldn't be picked on.

Last I was there on holiday I got to the point I could tell where I was in
Ireland by the taste of the Guinness. The stuff that makes it here and (I
apologize to the UK for this) to England is just not the same at all. What comes
out of the taps at the Guinness Hop Store in Dublin is just liquid alcoholoc
Nirvana - if a little weak in the alcohol content by my standards.

                         ajr

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:35:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Weber 1 barrel carb info needed

Bren,

To access the jets in the bottom of a Weber 34ICH, you need to remove the
air-cleaner connection and the top cover of the carburettor. The top of the
carb. comes off with 4 slotted screws around the periphery of the carburettor.

If you then sponge the gasoline out of the bowl and look at the bottom of it
you'll see the jets there. From the front of the car the left jet is the main
one - it should be a 165 for a 2.25 engine. The one next to it in the bottom of
the bowl is the air correction jet - it should be a 190. At the top of the
carburettor body in between the bowl and the carburettor throat is the emulsion
tube - this should be an F6.

All of these come out with a screwdriver - but be doggone sure to use the proper
size of screwdriver as you don't want to burr or damage the slots or openings in
the jets!

                         ajr

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:40:03 -0500
Subject: Guisness taste

>Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!

>>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
>DOES NOT!

>>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK
hospitals
because of the iron content?  It's the only beer I can stand: the
typical
US lager is like drinking cow piss (and you don't want to know how I
know
this...).>>

Wasn't that a Mackesson????

Peter Goundry
67 GS109 IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90#127

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:52:51 +0100
Subject: Re: digester tuning

I understand - but my question was - couldn't there be some
subscription  for those who only contribute occassionally or only read
the digests - some way by which the Major would block postings that
didn't include one fo the following -

either -

an address from a subscriber
or a keyword such as Land Rover
or a name/signature from a known correspondant

surely this would be better than spam?

-- 

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:11:33 -0400
Subject: Re: Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

Do not ever knowingly drive any vehicle that has aluminium heads with a bad head
gasket. This because the soft aluminium can errode at the point where the leak 
is
and thus ruin the head if not the whole engine.
Obviously this takes a little time so your trip home should have damaged it.
Another tip. Get the leaky head  check for flatness.If it warped then you will
need to have both heads planed the same amount for a number of reasons. The 
chief
of which is to maintain the same compression ratio on both banks.
John and Muddy

CIrvin1258@aol.com wrote:

> ...BECAUSE I BLEW THE &$^#*@% HEAD GASKETS ON THE RANGIE!!!!!
> I have no experience with the steel head gaskets, except for having a set for
> my SD-1 (won't fit my Rangie - it has a 3.9), and so I have a question, albeit
> a semi-stupid one...
> Is it possible to re-torque the heads and continue driving for a while, in
> this kind of situation? I ask, having owned a TR-4, and presently a TR-3, both
> of which have re-torqueable head gaskets - though they're considerably thicker
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> insurance gets renewed Wednesday!
> Charle

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:24:44 -0500
Subject: land rover bits for sale...

Dead of winter house cleaning time....
	GARMIN GPS IIplus, LIGHTS and SERIES parts...

One 'nearly new' Garmin GPS II plus
	ok, I bought one, used it, managed to stupidly break the coax antenna
	connector (unscrewed from the board hint- don't use vice grips on on 
	BNC connectors! ) sent it off to garmin, and they sent me back a brand
	new one (different serial no.).  looks new, smells new, still has the
	protective plastic over the screen. I used it for a couple weeks, and
	it works just fine.... (why am I selling ? so I can go out and buy the
	next model up GPS III - with base map)

	So, for sale,
		1 next to new Garmin GPS II+
			- 12 channel parallel receiver
				(tracks up to 12 birds at the same time)
			- suitable for horizontal or vertical use
			  (mounting brackets available for bikes, cars, etc.)
			- back lit (yellow-green) display for night use
			- internal lithium battery to remember waypoints, routes
			- stores 500 waypoints
			- stores 20 routes
			- has 1024 point tracking feature
			- does all the cool calculations
				estimated time to arrival, estimiated time
				enroute, trip odo, avg speed, etc.
			- prom rev 2.07 (the old one was 2.04) 
		1 instruction manual (which does show evidence of use :-)
		0 wrist straps/velcro (sorry but Garmin didn't return the wrist
			strap, and the velcro is used...)

		Requires 4 AA batteries, (which can last up to 24 hours if you
		don't use the back light), or you can get a power cord for
		auto/boat use (10-32v DC)

	Retail price: generally available for $250. perhaps found at $200.
		 Asking $150. firm.

	I'll even leave it loaded it with waypoints for cities (cool for air
	travel :-), or New England highway way points (help to plot routes...)
	if you want. works with Delorme (or probably other) mapping software,
	and there are a number of free utilities to up/download waypoints
	and routes from the Macintosh or PC to the GPS (additional cable 
	required).

Other stuff just hanging out in or behind the shed, which I could be convinced
to part with for greenish-black portraits of early american presidents and
statesmen:

USED HELLA RALLY 2000 PENCIL BEAM LAMP	$50.	(chrome trim, i think)
USED HELLA RALLY 2000 DRIVING BEAM LAMP	$60.	(black trim, i think)
	(new they are $125+ each) 

LAND ROVER SERIES

NEW foot box replacement panels, may be primed black, one each side, probably
have hole for pedals on the 'right' side... $50. each, or $80./both

NEW mud shield, series III (has the massive bend in it) can't remember 
which side it is, also likely from a RHD vehicle, heavy guage, expoxy primed
and painted bronze green	$20.

USED rear door (direct from the UK from my 1963 series IIa 88)
	bronze green, $75 w/o tyre mount, $100. with.
	USED rear door tyre mount (was on above rear door, could be again :-)
	asking $25.

USED 88" slab side hard top (no side windows), limestone
	(direct from the UK with my 1963 series IIa 88)  asking $250.

NEW, VARIOUS PARTS	(need to inventory)
	defender style plastic (round) red marker/stop lamp, $20./pair
	spring bushes
	shock bushes

Slightly USED CHECK STRAPS (for 88" rear axle)		asking	$20./pair 
	(put on at frame-over, removed 50 miles later) 

USED LUCAS 20/20 DRIVING LAMPS Genuine British BFLs (~7" diameter) look fine
	on a bull bar (direct from the UK - good shape)... metal case, black
	enamel, VERY GOOD condition glass/reflector etc...  H3 bulbs I think,
	(perfect accessory for that period Series) asking $75./pair

FORD PARTS
Slightly USED: Set of four Ford Mustang LX alloy wheels, c.1989, pull-offs, only
	a tens of miles on them, (honest, only driving about Lime Rock Park
	a few times :-) with center trim pieces and everything, better
	condition then you'll find in any boneyard - asking $400.

USED Jamex (?) lowering kit (all springs and front struts) for
	merkur (nee Sierra) XR4Ti, used one summer, a few thousand miles,
	too low for New England roads and speed bumps... asking $100.

Terms: postage / freight / delivery is not included, but if you're local
	lets talk...

	Most of the stuff is either in Worcester, Mass. or Albany, NY, or
	could be transported from one place to the other, or to DAVIS SQUARE
	in Somerville, MA.

	offers considered...(except on the GPS)

    Cheers,
          Bill Caloccia			wpc@Caloccia.Net
	 http://www.Caloccia.Net/wpc/
				  R
       http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/
   R  1  3  2wd  H OD		  D
   +--|--|   o   | |           L  3	Land Rovers First
      2  4  4wd  L N           |  2	    because
   '63 SII  RHD 88"            H  1	Land Rovers Last
      793-PTA            '90 RR County

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:29:56 -0400
Subject: Re: another nerd type(not) was RE: RPM = MPH

That is exactly what happens which is why flat tires destroy themselves in
short order. When it come to the effective gearing of any size tire it is the
radius from the axle centre to the ground that is critical

john taylor wrote:

> If the circumference of the tyre stays the same wouldn't the same distance
> pass per revolution - even if the tyre is half way flat - unless major
> slippage occurs for the portion of the tyre in the center of the contact
> patch and the tyre rolls just on the side wall portion?
> >BTW, size will also be very dependent on air pressure. One other
> >thing, measuring the size of the tire is very misleading (especially
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]

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From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 05:33:18 -0800
Subject: RE: weber

I have the 32/36 that hasn't ever seemed to run 'right'.  Where are  you (elev. 
etc.)?  I pulled out the jets and so on at one point because  I simply couldn't 
get the thing to idle down.  My 2.25 used to idle at  750-800, now it hardly 
comes close to 1000, more often 1150.  I have no  complaints about the power 
though :-)
Kirk,
I live in Forest Grove, Oregon, USA.  It is a small town about 30 miles west of 
Portland.  Lat 45(31.415' Long 123(06.971 and approximately 200 ft in 
elevation.  Pierce is located in the Bay area so their tests are at around sea 
level.

I'm also having problems with my 32/36.  It idles to high and I can not seem to 
adjust the idle mixture at all.  The fast idle is because of a bad linkage 
setup.  The return spring doesn't.  The idle mixture is most likely leaky 
throttle shaft bushings or messed up plates.

John Putnam
Orion GPS, Inc.
Forest Grove, OR
'70 SIIa SWB 'Rhino"
'90 RR

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ]
From: "Lee Dunkelberg" <clarelee@freewwweb.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:18:34 -0600
Subject: name for new RR
	charset="iso-8859-1"

John Putnam wrote -
>I now need to come up with a fitting name
>troubles to get the damn thing.  Your suggestions are welcome.

Somehow, "Jail Bait" comes to mind.

My $.02 on the Guinness thread - I just popped open my first homebrew stout
last night.  Close, but no cigar.  I'll take a Guinness or a Sheaf Stout,
please.

Lee Dunkelberg
San Antonio, Texas

------=_NextPart_000_0000_01BE273A.596AA3E0
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: application/ms-tnef; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 69 lines.]	

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:19:01 -0400
Subject: Re:Correction to Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

That should read " your trip home should *not* have damaged it"

John Cranfield wrote:

> Do not ever knowingly drive any vehicle that has aluminium heads with a bad 
head
> gasket. This because the soft aluminium can errode at the point where the 
leak is
> and thus ruin the head if not the whole engine.
> Obviously this takes a little time so your trip home should have damaged it.
> Another tip. Get the leaky head  check for flatness.If it warped then you will
> need to have both heads planed the same amount for a number of reasons. The 
chief
> of which is to maintain the same compression ratio on both banks.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> > If not, I'll simply visit BP Tuesday, and pick up a set. What timing - the
> > insurance gets renewed Wednesday!

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From: "Shaun Fisher" <FisherS@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:31:35 +0200
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

You guys should come to South Africa and tast a real beer.

Shaun Fisher
SERIES IIA 

>>> Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com> 98/12/14 02:40:03 >>>

>Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!
>>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
>DOES NOT!
>>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK
hospitals
because of the iron content?  It's the only beer I can stand: the
typical
US lager is like drinking cow piss (and you don't want to know how I
know
this...).>>

Wasn't that a Mackesson????

Peter Goundry
67 GS109 IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90#127

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:44:23 +0200
Subject: Re: Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

> Is it possible to re-torque the heads and continue driving for a while, in
# this kind of situation? I ask, having owned a TR-4, and presently a TR-3, both

Charles I think you would be better not doing that.
Any significant blowby will cause $$ damage to block and heads 
quite quickly.

If the car didn't overheat, the gaskets must have gone for a reason.  
V8's will run very hot (but below boiling...) for long periods and not 
blow a gasket.  The reason yours have blown may be warped 
heads or something similar, esp. considering that you say both 
have gone simultaneously.  If the car *did* overheat the heads may 
be warped...  In either case I would be tempted to get the heads 
inspected and machined as necessary when you take them off.

All the best,
^O
Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:01:35 -0600
Subject: RE: greetings

>I am sure I speak for many of us when I say you have been a very welcomed
>addition to the 'pub'. Now if we can only figure out to pass out Guinness
over
>the
>net! I have been GUINNLESS before and it stinks. At least go visit at the
>Guinness
>site --> http://www.guinness.ie/   ...unless it is too much of a tease you
can
>download
>the screen saver....quite cruel unless you have a pint of your own nearby.
...
>Rover On in 99!

It is too cruel as you say, to download the screensaver. :-(

Thank you Mike. We'll talk next year, save my seat!!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:01:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK hospitals
>because of the iron content?  It's the only beer I can stand: the typical
>US lager is like drinking cow piss (and you don't want to know how I know
>this...).

Marin, 

You are deeply wrong here. We DO want to know how you know that!!!!
Bye Bye...
:-)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: pcolbeck@esc.azlan.co.uk (Patrick Colbeck)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:06:52 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: test1

Please ignore, testing new mail setuP

Pat

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From: "Steve Rochna" <mns@oasisol.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:22:28 -0800
Subject: Pickup Top

Is there anyone out there, preferably in the Western US with a pickup top
anr/or tailgate they are willing to sell?  Less weight to carry, less air
to heat.

Thanks - Steve

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From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:36:27 -0500
Subject: Re: digester tuning

Adrian Redmond writes:
Subject: Re: digester tuning

> Maybe I'm seeing this far too simply - but can't you get the najor to
> dump ALL mail to any list, which come from anyone who isn't a subscriber
> of at least one list or digest?

Problem with this idea is that some folks have two (or more) email 
addresses from which we sometimes post and more to the point (at least for 
me) is that some of us don't actually subscribe to the list anymore--we 
just read it using the web interface. So what you suggest would in fact 
require some sort of "who's allowed to post" registry. Sounds like a nice 
idea, but it's something else that needs to be designed, implemented and 
maintained by an increasingly busy Bill C. Still, this might in fact take 
less time than it will to perfect the spam filters--I leave this to greater 
minds than my own to determine.

I'm now on a BMW digest that uses much tighter "posting" filters--you do 
have to be subscribed. When I'm at Hearst I can't even post to that list 
because our firewall is configured to not allow reverse DNS lookup. Since 
the list's 'postmaster' can't confirm that my message is coming from where 
it says it is the message is bounced back to me. And I can't use my other 
ISP's SMTP server from Hearst because they "don't forward." The suggested 
alternatives have involved getting a freEmail account (like HotMail) 
specifically to use with that list--but I don't even want to consider 
having another account. In the war against spam *we're* the real losers.

Anyhow, kudos to Bill for making the effort needed to keep this list 
operational.

RoverOn!

jab
==
 Jeffrey A. Berg     Purple Shark Media        Rowayton, CT
                    jeff@purpleshark.com
                     ==================
	My garden is full of papayas and mangos.
	My dance card is filled with merengues and tangos.
	Taste for the good life,
	I can see it no other way.
		--Jimmy Buffett, Lone Palm (live version)

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:49:20 -0800
Subject: Re: Pickup Top

Steve we have a truck cab and tailgate here you can have both for $500.00
Be quick I am away next week Ray

----------

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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:40:33 -0600
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

>>>>> "Peter" == Peter M Kaskan <pmk11@cornell.edu> writes:

    Peter> That's interesting.  Iron because of "strengthing"
    Peter> properties - aneamea etc...?  Isn't there a slogan
    Peter> "Drink Guiness for Strength?"  Maybe there is some
    Peter> truth to it?!

Here's my 2p on this issue.  I start every St Pat's with a
Guinness.  It's the only beer that's really good with
breakfast, although Murphy's is sometimes my preference for
later in the day.  I usually don't switch to whiskey until
after noon.  Apart from a slight midline spread, I've never
suffered any ill affects that I can recall...
							-MM

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From: Jan Ben <ben@lucent.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:22:22 -0500
Subject: alternator

Hi,
I have a Lucas 45-amp alt. in my early-80's  v8-powered LR.
I *had* it I should say - it's dead now, I think the regulator is dead..

1. anybody seen similar Lucas-style internal reg in anything  less rare?

It's a steel-cased epoxy-potted unit, 1" 2.5" or so, w. 4 leads sticking
out.
Nobody can match it up or even X-reference..  Even the Lucas tech line
didn't help.

2. A Delco unit will do, but I need to monkey w. the wiring and
brackets.  I looked at some other units, and a Mitsu or Hitachi unit is
almost a direct fit as far as brackets go, but are $110 and up, vs.
Delco's $30 for a reman.    Anybody found a better match than the GM
unit?  The main thing is the pivot mounts - needs to be 2-leg style,
legs 3.5" apart.

3. another unit that's mechanically close is the Mopar-style unit, but
it's all open-case.
Doesn't seem as water and dirt-proof... comments..?

4. anything else?

thx
Jan

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From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 14 Dec 1998 11:24:00 -0500
Subject: Use with care on Series vehicles

The leaking oil could catch on the underside and roast 
the vehicle...  Something for L.A. perhaps?  :-)

-----
Sunday, December 13, 1998

Anti-carjacking device torches thieves 

 JOHANNESBURG, South Africa (AP) -- An inventor says 
he has a solution to South Africa's soaring carjacking rate: 
barbecue the carjackers. 

 Charles Fourie's "Blaster" is essentially a flame-thrower 
mounted on a car's undercarriage. A foot switch sends flames 
fed by four gas jets beneath the doors out both sides of a car 
without singeing the vehicle. 

 Fourie said he has installed the Blaster on 25 cars and adds 
that it will stop a carjacker in his tracks. "He will never get 
your car," Fourie told Associated Press Television News. 

 Police Superintendent David Walkley said the device is legal 
and that he has one on his car, the Saturday Star, a 
Johannesburg weekly, reported. During a demonstration, 
the Blaster incinerated a dummy that had been placed outside 
the driver's window. But so far, it remains untested in a real 
situation. 

 Theoretically, a carjacker could fire a gun at the driver before 
or after jumping from the flames. And because flames blast out 
from both sides of the car and cannot be aimed, there is nothing 
to prevent a bystander from being torched. 

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:48:52 -0500
Subject: Mystery goo

The other day whilst perrusing Northern Hydraulics, my favorite store, I
came across this green speckled goo made, appropriatelyly enough, by Slime,
Inc.  Stuff you hose into your tires to prevent punctures up to 1/4".  The
label says it lasts two years or more, requiring a pint or more per tire.
Has anyone ever used a substance like this and what were your experiences?
Of course, if you say you never had a flat, then maybe the stuff *does*
work.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:48:54 -0500
Subject: Lines and magnets

Jeff Berg wrote:

> You get (occassional) outright approaches at gas stations --"Cool car" >etc.

Yup...happened just about the time Jeff wrote that.  Pulled into the local
pharmacy and two attractive coeds walk up.

"What a neat vehicle." 

'Vehicle'...not "car".  I *am* intrigued.

"What year is it?"

"It's a 1972 and I'm the original owner," knowing full well that the Rover
is several years older than either of them.

"Wow.  You were *cool* way before your time."

Eh?  Is this in my favor?  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:48:56 -0500
Subject: Temp sender

> "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> wrote:

>Sandy, was wondering where/how the sender was installed.

I figured that the T-box would be the only part really working harder when
I installed the overdrive back in '78, so a temp sender seemed like a good
safeguard.  Drilled a hole in the side of the T-box near the drain hole.
It's a rather heavy aluminium casting, so it is easy to drill and tap.  A
simple, inexpensive Stewart Warner guage available most anywhere that sells
truck parts (temp range is something like 100 to 300 F).  I later installed
an engine oil temp sender, so a SPDT switch on the dash switches two
senders to one guage.

On long, hot summer runs, the temp would get as high as 280 F - worrisome,
but not damaging.  After Hi-Tach, it stays below 210 F.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:48:59 -0500
Subject: Guinness taste

Martin Faure wrote:

>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK hospitals
>because of the iron content? 

and Rick Grant wrote:

>It was also given to babies that had digestive problems.  My grandfather,
>who was a doctor in Wales, had me put on it for a while when I was about a
>year old.  

I've been drinkin' the stuff longer ;-)  When I was "in utero", the old
country GP *prescribed* two Guinnesses a day for my mom.  A healthy 9#
12oz, I was...  210 today :-( and still love the stuff....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:39:56 -0500
Subject: Re: alternator

Jan,

Did you take a look at the case and mounting style of the big Delco/GM unit? The
105-amp Delco sounds like a close match to the dimensions you describe.

Also, I know of at least one Stage 1 that has one.

                    ajr

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From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:01:46 -0500
Subject: re babe magnets

Mike Rooth asks:

> Can we be clear about this Mr B? Exactly *what* top was off? Hers,or
> the trucks?

Well in this case both. It was summer and the hood was not on FINSUP. I 
pulled up to a traffic light where this woman was ( I assume) trying to 
pull off a 'quick change' while sitting low in her seat--maybe she was 
exchanging beach attire for work attire or vice-versa? I looked over and 
there she was. As we made eye contact (me straining to keep my eyes on hers 
of course) she realized that there were taller vehicles than that in which 
she was riding and that we was inadvertently putting on a little show. 
Before I could even think to turn away she got flustered and the quickness 
went out of the operation so she gave up (for the moment), dropped her top 
into her lap and tossed me an embarrassed wave. I (being equally if not 
more embarrassed and flustered) then returned my eyes to the face forward 
position to allow her to recover her modesty. The light changed, and off we 
went...

(For those of you waiting  for the finish to be '...to the local Motel 6 
where we...' I want to point out that this is the Land Rover Owner List, 
NOT Penthouse Forum. We went our separate ways and I've never seen her 
again.)

Whole thing took place in maybe 5 seconds--just one of those "*that* 
doesn't happen every day" moments that make life interesting.

Clear enough Mike?

jab
==
 Jeffrey A. Berg   Purple Shark Media         Rowayton, CT
                  jeff@purpleshark.com
                   ==================
	I'm looking for a smart woman in a real short skirt...
				--Jimmy Buffett, Smart Woman
	...and her own complete set of SnapOn tools,
		plus the know-how to use them!
			     --Jeff Berg, Broken Rover Blues

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:04:26 +0000
Subject: Re: Guinness taste

I've been drinkin' the stuff longer ;-)  When I was "in utero", the old
>country GP *prescribed* two Guinnesses a day for my mom.  A healthy 9#
>12oz, I was...  210 today :-( and still love the stuff....  Cheers
Ah! Literally a born drinker.

Mike Rooth

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:52:49 +0200
Subject: Re: Use with care on Series vehicles

"Kenner, Dixon" wrote:
> The leaking oil could catch on the underside and roast
> the vehicle...  Something for L.A. perhaps?  :-)
> -----
> Sunday, December 13, 1998
> Anti-carjacking device torches thieves

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> from both sides of the car and cannot be aimed, there is nothing
> to prevent a bystander from being torched.

I hope y'all don't think this is a joke! These guys are serious as a
heart attack. Besides there are very few "bystanders" when crimes such
as carjacking are committed, certainly no innocent ones.

Johannesburg, lovely place to be from... 

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:18:00 +0100
Subject: Beer philosophy...

During my trip in Alaska, I met an interesting man who told me that he
allows himself three beers each day, and the first one doesn't count.

I discovered that he begins counting only after the first one - so the
first one after the first one is the first - which doesn't count - so he
begins counting again. By the time he has stopped counting for an
evening, he's lost count - so he has to start counting all over again.

But the first one doesn't count...
 

Adrian Redmond

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:21:46 +0100
Subject: Re: Mystery goo

Sounds like snake oil to me!

But I await better knowledge!
-- 

Adrian Redmond

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 98 09:42:13 -0800
Subject: Re: Renting manuals

>I did not know that rental agencies even had manuals.  Was this recently?
>Which rental agency?

Well I'll admit it has been about 8 years since I rented a car.  I used 
to do it all the time during business trips when I was with HP.  I took 
cabs, trains, busses & the underground while at Apple.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:41:28 -0600
Subject: RE: Lines and magnets

On a recent hunting trip, I was sitting in my 59 PU outside a bar in
northern Wisconsin waiting for my whipped long time friend to call his wife
(I can't stand that attitude while on camping trips).  Two barflys walk out
and were unawhere on me laying relatively prone trying to rest when the
younger of the two stated " Look at that eyesore, I'd never ride in that!"
The older and obviously wiser replied.  "I think it's cool... I'd ride in
it"  Certatinly made me chuckle

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 98 09:47:17 -0800
Subject: Re: front drive flanges wanted

>Hiya,
>My Birthday is Tuesday, and you can help me celebrate!

Happy birthday almost!!!

>If you have your old 6 finger style drive flanges from the front of your
>rover, I'll give them a good home, please email me.

John these Do wear.  If you get a used set be sure that they fit the 
splines snugly.  Even a little wiggle may add enough slop to get a clunk 
when you let out the clutch.  If memory serves the flange was the same 
for both front an rear if you aren't mixing Salisbury & Rover on the same 
car.

Take care & hope to see you on the Majove trail in a couple of weeks.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:47:51 -0700
Subject: Re: well, it finally died (the alternator)

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

<<OK, you really do need to check the bulb for the warning light and make sure
it's good. I've noticed that some of the GM conversions need the bulb and
warning lamp circuit to be connected to work properly - they act like the
alternator's getting seed voltage through that circuit instead of the sense
lead.>>

OK, I guess I should have expounded on my earlier research into the dead
charge light. I checked the light at the dash; all's well -if I ground it-.
So, must be the alternator side. Checked alternator wire (yellow to charge
light) and it does act as a ground but a very weak one (i.e. just weakly
lights my twelve volt test lamp. The only thing I can figure is that the
16ga wire to the alternator just doesn't provide enough of a ground. But
why did it work for 3000 miles? The only other possibility is something
amiss internally in the alt., but this seems unlikely as the warning light
circuit is awfully simple.

<<Make sure all of the connections are correct - if you can test-lamp 12
volts on all 3 wires (power, sense and bulb) then you should be fine. If
that happens,
then take the alternator back to NAPA and bitch mightily....I would.>>

Will test more today after exams. I draw an interesting crowd while working
in teh dorm lot. Yesterday, I had the audience of a Botswanan and an Indian
(the country) both of which had driven Land Rovers "back home." Also had
the distinct privelege to hand crank in the Wal Mart lot to get me home; it
was almost worth the hassle for the looks I got!

-joseph and sidney (down but not out)
missoula, mt

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:33:51
Subject: Re: Oil pressure relief valve blues

	Haven't had the pressure relief jam open on my rover but it did on my 
MGA
on an annual basis.  Will not ruin the engine by dropping oil pressure to
zero but will result in quite low oil pressure after warm up.  In the MG,
it would have normal oil pressure at idle and then slowly drop to 10-15
pounds as the oil warmed.  Talked to a dealer who said engine rebuild, cost
only a years college expenses at the time.  Pulled the engine with a
friend, mic'd the crank which was fine, put in new bearings and still the
same pressure.  Ran into a drunk in a bar after 48 hours of straight work
on the MGA who over heard us talking about the problem.  Said clean the oil
pressure relief valve.  DUH!!!  About the only useful thing I ever learned
in a bar. 
	It would be extremely bad engineering to have a stuck relief valve dump
all the oil pressure but if you experience the above symptoms go right away
to the relief valve.

If you do take it apart or 
>replace it, then of all things make sure that the pressure relief valve 
>is functioning correctly and has no bits of gubbins inside.  If that 
>jams open then the engine gets no oil and will make Expensive 
>Noises.

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:42:21 EST
Subject: Re: vacuum gauges

In a message dated 12/13/98 4:27:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
pmk11@cornell.edu writes:

<< Will I need a
 converter piece from manifold to pressure transducer - and is this
 something that would have to be fabricated?  Oh, one more Q. - what might I
 be spending ? >>
My College Roomie used to put vacuum gauges in his Triumphs, the cheapest
place to get them , then and now, was a pool supply house.  all you need is a
barbed fitting for your manifold port and smoe rubber hose to connect them. 

Other than serving as a potential source of vacuum leaks, you can get more
information as to the running state of the engine from a vacum gauge than any
other cheap piece you can add easily.  Think of it as adding a piece of
diagnostic equipment to your engine full time.

Zack Arbios

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:01:05 -0800
Subject: How to use a vacuum gauge

For an excellent write up on how to interpret a vacuum gauge's readings,
check out 

http://www.autosite.com/garage/encyclop/ency20d.asp

Paul in Victoria.

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:28:53 EST
Subject: Re: Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

In a message dated 98-12-14 09:58:34 EST, you write:

<<  The reason yours have blown may be warped 
 heads or something similar, esp. considering that you say both 
 have gone simultaneously.  If the car *did* overheat the heads may 
 be warped... >>

Well, I don't know for sure if I blew both of them, but it's kinda one of
those things where, if one goes...you might as well replace the other one
while you have access to it. Been there with my SD-1, and I ain't going back.

I pulled a trailer for some 200 miles Saturday, once with a SII 88 on it, then
with an Austin Atlantic - neither is really light - and the trailer had
dragging brakes...I KNEW I should have taken it back to U-Haul!

Don't think I did any head damage - I'm not THAT stupid, but I'll have a
looksee anyway.

Oh - I called BP about the gaskets (composite), and they wanted around $34.00
each - the dealer only wanted $19.00 each! Bad news is - neither had them in
stock, so I have to wait a few days...and the dealer is closer than BP.

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:30:15 EST
Subject: Re: my smoky 109 diesel...

...I just hope I don't get pulled over in the 109 - it's pretty bad at idle!

Charles
P.S. Was supposed to yank the head off of it yesterday - had I not been
fooling around with the Rangie!

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From: "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi@gte.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:36:52 -0500
Subject: Re: digester tuning

Jeff-
What's the bmw list address?  I might want to subscribe for the 
wife's car.  TIA.		-Bob

GTE Labs, MS-38            rvirzi@gte.com         voice: +1.781.466.2881
40 Sylvan Rd                                        fax: +1.781.466.4035
Waltham, MA, USA  02451

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:14:08 -0500
Subject: Re: well, it finally died (the alternator)

OK, I guess I should have expounded on my earlier research into the dead
charge light. I checked the light at the dash; all's well -if I ground it-.
So, must be the alternator side. Checked alternator wire (yellow to charge
light) and it does act as a ground but a very weak one (i.e. just weakly
lights my twelve volt test lamp.

Joseph,

If you ground this wire, does the lamp on the dash come on properly? If not,
then there's a problem there that needs to be rectified. If the resistance in
that line is too high it might well be preventing the alternator from charging.

Get a test wire and ground it alternately (pardon the pun) to the alternator
case and to a good engine block ground. If the light lights brightly in both
cases, then the alternator grounding is OK, If not, then that might bear a
look...

                              ajr

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:11:51 EST
Subject: re-Acceptable chassis?

Hi Cort 
The best way to test a chassis for rot is to tap it with a small metal tool
and listen to the resonance from the chassis. Heavly rusted areas will sound
dead good sound areas ring. Try it on an area that is known to be in good nick
and remember the note it made.

As far as judging how bad a chassis can be repaired, it depends on how far YOU
are prepared to go with the repairs. I have known keen restorers cut out 85%
of the old metal and replace it with new, piece by piece. Not even replacing
whole outrigers with factor replacements so as not to spoil originality, yet
they happly replace most of the steel.

This brings me to the fact that all outrigers are availiable off the shelf as
are front dumb irons, rear crossmembers, door pillars, footwells, even half
chassis are availiable here in the UK. In fact all the areas that rust are
being re-manufactured by someone and these parts are often quite cheap.

Go ahead and buy the Land Rover if you like it and at the same time buy the
wife a Mig Welder and angle grinder, then stand back and watch her enjoy
herself.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

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From: Dale Smith <smithd@bunt.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:17:02 +0100
Subject: list tuning

Sent this one this morning, but it didn't look to get past the digest.
Smitty

From: smitty1@altavista.net
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 03:03:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: list tuning

Adrian said;
Dear Bill,
Maybe I'm seeing this far too simply - but can't you get the najor to
dump ALL mail to any list, which come from anyone who isn't a subscriber
of at least one list or digest?
As I said - it might not be that simple?
Regards - this is not a test :-)
Adrian Redmond

Dear Bill,
Being one of the Yah** folks that was getting axed, let me say that I
can fully 
understand the need to protect the major from junk mail. I'm not upset
in the 
least at having to do a work around from my end. I just use yah** for
the 
convience of not flooding my home e-mail(the boss doesn't allow it for
work 
e-mail 
either). Being a computer operator in the military I can appreciate what
a 
thankless job running a big operation like the list could be. If we
haven't 
said so 
lately, I'm sure the rest of the list would agree in saying "thank you"
for 
running the list in the first place. Do what you have to do to keep the
major 
healthy and rover on...:-)
Merry X-mas, Happy New Year, and Peace to you and yours. 
Cheers
Smitty

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:40:44 -0700
Subject: Strong 10 spline axles!

This is to anof you that are tired of breaking axles. I have been
talking to a machine shop about getting axles made out of stronger
steel. They said they could make some out of aircraft grade steel which
would be significantly stronger than the stock axles. However they have
to modify or buy new tooling to cut the splines. My cost for one set
would be $1500 wuth $600 being for tooling. However they said that it
would be a lot cheaper if they could do a quantity. So my question is
would anyone be interested in a set of these axles, depending on the
price of course. If I could get an approximate quantity, I could let you
know what the price would be. I would be making no money on this, I just
would like axles that I can afford that are stronger than stock. You can
e-mail me at  jimfoo@uswest.net . These are rear axles only.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 98 17:04:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles! 

errr...perhaps you oughtta try another machine shop...
at least do some comparison shopping. 

later
dave

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From: "Elwyn York (USLR)" <USLR@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:37:28 +0000

<fontfamily><param>Arial</param><bigger>UnSubscribe 
LRO</bigger></fontfamily>

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From: Elwyn York <Elwyn@ey-eg.demon.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:53:02 +0000

I get the funny feeling I sent this to the wrong site. I am away this xmas
and am trying to unsubscribe....

bye
Elwyn
LR S3 '72 (Very Dented) Lightweight. [47 FL 06] 
"Sub Aerodynamic Green Brick" ICQ: 17087824.

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:30:46 -0000
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

Guinness or Mackeson was given out in Hospitals...right up to the 1970's.
Only stopped because of the cost.
I encouraged people to bring in either during my recent rest........
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 20:55:10 -0000
Subject: Re: Mystery goo

Sandy,
something similar is used in the UK - called "Tyre Tight" or close. I
watched a few demonstrations once where they hammered nails into tyres and
then proved that the air pressure was the same.
one of those things I always meant to have a go with but never got round to
it.
ISTR there was some comment (maybe in a letter) that it went "off" if the
vehicle was square-wheeled for a length of time, had to be run regularly to
keep the stuff coated all around the inside of the tyre.
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:12:19 -0400
Subject: Re: well, it finally died (the alternator)

The GM alternator is grounded through the case. The wire to the dash light and 
the
voltage sensor wire both connect to the regulator directly.
What you have to remember is that the cheap "rebuilt" units use a large 
percentage
of used parts all that is replaced is the bits that don't work when the core 
gets
to the rebuilders bench. This being the case it is largely a matterof luck 
whether
your "new"
unit lasts a week or five years. Your best bet is to get another and stick it 
on,
making sure of the warranty on the new one.
John and Muddy

Joseph Broach wrote:

> Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:
> <<OK, you really do need to check the bulb for the warning light and make sure
> it's good. I've noticed that some of the GM conversions need the bulb and
> warning lamp circuit to be connected to work properly - they act like the
> alternator's getting seed voltage through that circuit instead of the sense
> lead.>>
> OK, I guess I should have expounded on my earlier research into the dead
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> the distinct privelege to hand crank in the Wal Mart lot to get me home; it
> was almost worth the hassle for the looks I got

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 06:23:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

Is it blowing into the valley? The V8 is prone to do this especially with the 
metal
gaskets. On my 3.5`s I always use the Felpro composition type but I do not know 
if
they may be used on the 3.9. The head is prone to "rock" if the outside bolts 
are
tightened to the spec torque.Rpi ( Rover parts international) have a 
disertation on
this on their web site.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:21:07 -0400
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

My question is just exactly do they mean by "aircraft grade steel"? This
actually a rather meaningless phrase.
John and Muddy

jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

> This is to anof you that are tired of breaking axles. I have been
> talking to a machine shop about getting axles made out of stronger
> steel. They said they could make some out of aircraft grade steel which
> would be significantly stronger than the stock axles. However they have
> to modify or buy new tooling to cut the splines. My cost for one set
> would be $1500 wuth $600 being for tooling. However they said that it
> would be a lot cheaper if they could do a quantity. So my question is
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Jim Hall
> Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 23:30:12 -0000
Subject: my mail

this is not a test, honest Bill!
Can someone mail back to tell me if this gets through to the list, a few
happenings have led me to believe that some of my mail is being bounced
TIA
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Malcolm Woodruff <kap08@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 23:25:43 -0800
Subject: PKV

Frank
Thanks for the info re PKV I wondered about the history. As mine was 
registered in Dec 84, was it still an 83 model? My hardtop 110, Nellie, 
is also an 83 model. Useful as a 3D workshop manual, but it does mean we 
can only pull one apart at once.
Pic at Billing seems a good idea, be in touch nearer the time.
Malcolm Woodruff

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:33:13 -0500
Subject: Clutch master and slave pairing (SIIA)...??

  Here's one for you engineers. I have a late SIIA ('71) with the late CV
type clutch master with integrated reservoir. It has a larger style fluid
port (not 1/4" like a standard brake line) for the hydraulic line. The
vehicle is undergoing a rebuild and I have replaced the clutch slave
cylinder. The previous slave had a larger style flex line running to it via
one of those 90 degree unions that are held in place via crush washers and
a separate bolt. I can't remember what the actual port size on the slave
was, though. The new replacement slave has a smaller 1/4" type fluid inlet
that is designed for a standard brake flex hose type mount. That is, the
flex hose goes straight in. I also ordered a new flex hose for the late
('69+) IIAs that is, apparently, the larger style fitting on both ends
(from Rover's North), and a hard line, which is similarly the larger style
fitting all around. That's the problem.
  I now have a hydraulic susytem which utilizes the larger style fittings
and parts from the master to the end of the flex hose, but a smaller style
1/4" inlet port on the clutch slave. Why the part discrepancies? Did Land
Rover go to a larger inlet slave for late IIAs? Both British Bulldog and
Rover's North list two types of clutch slave, a SII, SIIA, and the SIII. I
know the SIII setup is very different from the IIA setups.
  Can I simply adapt the larger steel line down to a smaller flex line?
That poses the potential problem of increasing line pressure and decreasing
volume. But, will it be enough of a problem to cause the slave to not work
correctly?
  Thanks for the input!

Jeff Goldman
Boston, MA
http://www.gis.net/~roverboy

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From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:28:38 -0600
Subject: Slime

Hi,
	I have used it for years in my bicycle and motorcycle tires.  It works
great in them.  I have pulled out a 1" long cactus thorn from my bicycle
tire and spin the tire and it seals in seconds.  The bicycle slime says
guaranteed to seal up to 1/8" and I believe it.  At a dealer show once I
saw a man demonstrating the stuff.  He had a board with a roofing nail
hammered up though it which he sunk the tire into and it sealed over and
over at least six times while I was watching. The stuff works like clotting
factor in the blood in that it hardens once it finds the puncture.  

	This slime is no fix-a-flat crap. I have dealt with that thousands of
times over the years in customers bicycles and it will harden and ruin a
tube over time.  I sell the Slime and I like it.  I even have a 2 gallon
tub that I inject into customers tires before I sell the bike.  In my area
of Texas thorns are the number one problem with cycling, my number one
repair and my best profit margin.
	
	I have never seen it for car tires, nor have I used it in the LR so I do
not know how it works.  I have had it in my Suzuki DR250 for more than 3
years and no flat yet.  Same thing as the bike just yank out the thorn w/
some pliers and spin the wheel.

Just to clarify I am not advocating this product one way or another.  Just
stating my experience.

Steve Fullwood

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From: Malcolm Woodruff <kap08@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 23:25:43 -0800
Subject: PKV

Frank
Thanks for the info re PKV I wondered about the history. As mine was 
registered in Dec 84, was it still an 83 model? My hardtop 110, Nellie, 
is also an 83 model. Useful as a 3D workshop manual, but it does mean we 
can only pull one apart at once.
Pic at Billing seems a good idea, be in touch nearer the time.
Malcolm Woodruff

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 06:58:27 -0500
Subject: Re: re babe magnets

Some few years ago eldest son who was about 17 or 18 years old at the time was
driving Murphy, canvas off , through Toronto. Stopped at a set of lights he
felt that feeling that someone was staring at him. Looking over he saw this
attractive mid thirties aged woman in a convertible next to him.He smiled back.
She said "I like your truck". He smiled again and said "thank you"........She
then said ............".Yea., it makes me hot" they then drove off, she still
staring and smiling............and he didn`t even get her number. Now why can`t
this happen to the old man.

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 06:04:05 -0700
Subject: Re: re babe magnets

>Whole thing took place in maybe 5 seconds--
Ummmmm  Jeff, I think I may have a clue as to your woman troubles....

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:22:27 -0800
Subject: Koening Rear PTO Winch

A local used parts supplier has a Koening Rear PTO Winch for sale.

Has anyone ever seen one of these beasts?  I imagine it would stick out at
the rear like a hamsters ass and really cut down departure angles...???

Haven't seen it yet, but the price is inviting...

Paul in Victoria.

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 20:40:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Koening Rear PTO Winch

Is it one that mounts on the front but drives from the PTO as distinct from
the crankshaft. If so it is highly desirable.
John and Muddy

Paul Quin wrote:

> A local used parts supplier has a Koening Rear PTO Winch for sale.
> Has anyone ever seen one of these beasts?  I imagine it would stick out at
> the rear like a hamsters ass and really cut down departure angles...???
> Haven't seen it yet, but the price is inviting...
> Paul in Victoria.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Haven't seen it yet, but the price is inviting...
> Paul in Victoria.

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 00:26:50 -0000
Subject: Re: PKV

Malcolm,
glad you liked the info.
If yours is a sliding window vehicle then, according to my info, it would
have been an 83 model.
Of course you could try for the build info from Gaydon, as I intend to do
myself one day - just another thing I need a Roundtooit for !!
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:52:38 -0800
Subject: RE: Koening Rear PTO Winch

	John asks Is it one that mounts on the front but drives from the PTO
as distinct from
the crankshaft. If so it is highly desirable.

No, I think that it actually bolts onto the rear crossmember and is driven
from the transmission PTO through that big hole in the rear.

Paul.

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 21:24:15 -0000
Subject: Re: list tuning

I'll second that,
Bill, like in a lot of positions in life you only ever hear the gripes. The
fact that most of us rarely have anything to say to you means that we're all
happily "playing" away on the lists.
 We really do appreciate what you do, you deserve a Merry Xmas mate, thanks
again.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: John <jhong@flex.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:08:04 -0800
Subject: re: use with care on series vehicles...

Pics and downloadable video clip at the following address!

http://cnn.com/WORLD/africa/9812/11/flame.thrower.car/

>From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca>
>Date: 14 Dec 1998 11:24:00 -0500
>Subject: Use with care on Series vehicles
>The leaking oil could catch on the underside and roast 
>the vehicle...  Something for L.A. perhaps?  :-)
>-----
>Sunday, December 13, 1998
>Anti-carjacking device torches thieves 

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 21:19:45
Subject: RE: Greasy brakes

>I am pretty sure the stuff is coming from the hubs.  I plan to replace the
>oil seals (again, carefully, again).  I want to make sure that I do not
>unknowingly repeat some mistakes.  
>What is the correct way to pack front hubs with grease and how much grease
>is enough?

Charles, check the axle breather. If you have the series Rover type it may
be plugged and hence the source of your problem.
Jim Wolf

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:35:01 -0700
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

Unfortunately, it's about the only shop in Denver that cuts splines. I
will find out the exact type/grade of steel that will be used.

dbobeck@ushmm.org wrote:

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 21:46:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

>This is to anof you that are tired of breaking axles. I have been
>talking to a machine shop about getting axles made out of stronger
>steel. They said they could make some out of aircraft grade steel which
>would be significantly stronger than the stock axles.
Did y'all find out what stock axels are made from?  How do they know!?
What is aircraft grade steel?  If it's splines that shear, you should
convert to the larger# splined axel - isn't there a 24 spline?  Would it
fit in the rover axel with a different drive flange?  Christ for 1500$ you
could probably buy a couple of sauslbury axels (Is there a front?  I seem
to remember there being some silliness about this a number of months ago).
That's quite a bit o' dough!  Wouldn't it be cheaper to just replace with
stock axels on every break?  What happens when you fail to break an axel -
maybe you would twist something else off?!  What happens if you break the
machined ones?!
(Sorry to be so pessimistic...)

>However they have to modify or buy new tooling to cut the splines.
>My cost for one set would be $1500 wuth $600 being for tooling.
Ask them what specifically they need to buy, and how they are going to do it.
They should only need a mill (probably several) with the right dimentions
and shape - which may need to be manufactured.  Otherwise you'd just need
an indexing head, a bridgeport, a lathe, and a lot of skill!  If the
aircraft steel is too hard to cut with a carbide mill, maybe they would
have to grind the splines.

(I've been working in a machine shop recently.
No, I don't want to try it for y'all,
probably couldn't do it untill like the 10 try anyway!)

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:35:20 -0700
Subject: Re: Packing Hub bearings.  How much grease is enough

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:39:52 -0600
Subject: Packing Hub bearings.  How much grease is enough.

>Well this stems back to my greasy front brakes.
>I am pretty sure the stuff is coming from the hubs.  I plan to replace the
oil seals (again, carefully, again).  I want to make sure that I do not
unknowingly repeat some mistakes.
>What is the correct way to pack front hubs with grease and how much grease
is enough?

At the risk of reopening an over-hashed topic, you don't have to grease the
front (or rear) hubs at all, as they are lubricated from the 90/w gear oil
in the swivel balls (and from the 90/w in the differential in the rear).
According to the shop manual, the only time you need to grease hub bearings
is when you're installing new ones, or have had the old ones out to inspect
and clean them.  Putting some grease on ensures they will be lubricated
from the start, before the oil from the swivel balls (front) or the
differential (rear) has a chance to work through and fill up the bearings.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 20:29:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:
=   If it's splines that shear, you should
= convert to the larger# splined axel - isn't there a 24 spline?  Would
it
= fit in the rover axel with a different drive flange? 
That I know of, series rovers only had 10 spline except for the
saulsburys. Somebody please let me know if I am wrong about this. RR
spider gears(24 spline) supposidly will fit the stock diff, but I don't
think the axles will fit. Ashcroft makes 24 spline axles that will fit,
but they cost $488 plus shipping for axles, hubs, and spiders.
= Christ for 1500$ you
= could probably buy a couple of sauslbury axels (Is there a front?  I
seem
= to remember there being some silliness about this a number of months
ago).
I have thought about a saulsbury, but they are so much bigger and hang
way lower that I want to see if I can find another way. I was hoping
that if enough people were interested, that the price might end up being
reasonable. If not, no I'm not going to pay $1500 for two axles. By the
way, heat treating is included in the price. I haven't asked about the
front since I don't think they break as often.(unless the backs keep
breaking and I have to keep backing up all the steep hills!)
=  Wouldn't it be cheaper to just replace with  stock axels on every
break? 
That would depend on the final price and how many stock axles I would
break. I do go 4-wheeling a lot, so I figured I might break a lot of
them over my lifetime.
= What happens when you fail to break an axel - maybe you would twist
something
= else off?!  What happens if you break the machined ones?!
That's a chance I would take. I haven't heard of many people breaking
spiders, ring gears, or pinions, even after repeated axle breaks, so I
imagine they are fairly strong. The tranny must be strong enough or they
would be breaking left and right with the saulsburys.
=  Ask them what specifically they need to buy, and how they are going
to do it.
= They should only need a mill (probably several) with the right
dimentions
= and shape - which may need to be manufactured.  Otherwise you'd just
need
= an indexing head, a bridgeport, a lathe, and a lot of skill!
I will ask them, especially since I don't do machining. As I stated in a
previous
e-mail which so far hasn't gone throuth yet, I will also ask them
exactly what type/grade steel will be used.
	If anybody has any other suggestions or options I have overlooked,
please let me know.

Jim Hall 
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:43:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Clutch master and slave pairing (SIIA)...??

Jeff Goldman wrote:

>   Here's one for you engineers. I have a late SIIA ('71) with the late
> CV
> type clutch master with integrated reservoir. It has a larger style
> fluid
> port (not 1/4" like a standard brake line) for the hydraulic line. The
> vehicle is undergoing a rebuild and I have replaced the clutch slave
> cylinder. The previous slave had a larger style flex line running to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
> SIII. I
> know the SIII setup is very different from the IIA setups.

Do you happen to have an all synchro gearbox, similar to an SIII? A few
were installed in late SIIAs, but I thought they were all home market
RHD vehicles. The clutch slave cylinder for those vehicles is 591231,
which is the same as SIII. The pipe and hose arrangement looks like it
is different though. Prehaps SIII parts could be adapted. E-mail me
directly if you need more information.

>   Can I simply adapt the larger steel line down to a smaller flex
> line?
> That poses the potential problem of increasing line pressure and
> decreasing
> volume. But, will it be enough of a problem to cause the slave to not
> work
> correctly?

Changing the diameter of the hose and pipe won't affect the static
pressures in the lines or cylinders. That's determined by the sizes of
the master and slave cylinder. It will affect the pressure drop in the
line while the clutch pedal is in motion, but it shouldn't be enough to
matter.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:49:50 -0700
Subject: Re: vacuum gauges

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:25:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: vacuum gauges

C. Marin Faure wrote;
>>As you can probably tell, I relate more to manifold pressure than manifold
>vacuum, so I installed a manifold pressure gauge in my Series III.

>Hey, can you tell us who makes a good quality one?  Do they come in the 2
1/16 size?  My IIA has a hole in the I. manifold, which used to be hooked
up to a brake booster.  I've it capped off now.  It is formed in the
manifold, like at the factory, so it might be a series III.  Will I need a
converter piece from manifold to pressure transducer - and is this
something that would have to be fabricated?  Oh, one more Q. - what might I
be spending ?

The manifold pressure gauge I installed in my Series III is an aircraft
instrument which I obtained courtesy of a fellow who had a wrecked Beaver
he was parting out.  I have never seen a aircraft manifold pressure gauge
as small as 2 inches in diameter: most of them are three or four inches
across as it plus the tach are the two primary engine instruments in a
constant-speed prop airplane.  As far as cost, as you can imagine, anything
having to do with airplanes is pretty spendy: I would hazard a guess than a
new manifold pressure gauge would be between $500 and $1000, but I may be
way off either direction.  But there are a lot of airplane salvage yards
and used parts places around: I'd suggest checking to see if they have a
selection of manifold pressure gauges they've pulled out of wrecked or
parted-out airplanes.  What you want is a pure manifold pressure gauge.
Some gauges, like the one in the Cessna 206 I flew, combine a manifold
pressure gauge with a fuel flow gauge in the same instrument.  You're most
likely to find a basic manifold pressure gauge in older airplanes like the
Beaver, older model Cessnas, and so forth.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: Chris Stevens <chrisste@clark.net>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 22:51:03 -0500
Subject: Starter Turns, No Fire

Hey all,

Thanks for the response on getting the starter working. My son and I removed it,
cleaned it up, and presto...it now turns the engine. One problem: apparently
there's no spark so obviously the thing won't fire. We tried the plug-to-block
test: no spark. So now we suspect the coil. How can we check the coil and are
there any more likely suspects?

Chris Stevens
1969 SIIA

Zack Stevens
1972 SIII

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 23:26:37 -0500
Subject: Re: Another twist to my dilema

The Stockdales wrote:

> I was looking at my newest AB catalogue and they are now listing
> bearings:
>     "Main Bearing Set II (58-61), (2 Litre Diesel I &II)"
>     "Connecting Rod Bearing Set 21/4 (58-61) & 2 Litre Diesel"
> These are listed in the Cat. but not on the price sheet.  This being
> the
> weekend I haven't called AB to find out what the deal is.

Don't get your hopes up. AB has been listing those for years with none
available. I think they don't bother to update the catalog, just the
price sheet.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 23:31:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

Hi Jim,

>That I know of, series rovers only had 10 spline except for the
>saulsburys. Somebody please let me know if I am wrong about this. RR
>spider gears(24 spline) supposidly will fit the stock diff, but I don't
>think the axles will fit. Ashcroft makes 24 spline axles that will fit,
>but they cost $488 plus shipping for axles, hubs, and spiders.
I don't know much about it, I just thought I'd heard that some rovers came
with 24 spline axels, or some number more than the 10 spline - maybe it is
the saulsbury that has got the 24 spline axels.  The spline count, I think,
will increase the max torque.  I imagine these are also thicker.

>I have thought about a saulsbury, but they are so much bigger and hang
>way lower that I want to see if I can find another way.
They are probably heaver,
and hence will add mass down low.
Do they have less ground clearance than the rover axels?
Could that clearance really be all that different?
They are bigger probably because the whole diff,
axels, and case is stronger!

>By the way, heat treating is included in the price.
Oh, ok - so they will cut them "soft"
and heat treat them to harden them.
This will also make them more brittle - relative to before milling.

>>What happens when you fail to break an axel - maybe you would twist
>>something else off?!  What happens if you break the machined ones?!
>That's a chance I would take. I haven't heard of many people breaking
>spiders, ring gears, or pinions, even after repeated axle breaks.
True, but that's probably 'cuz ther're running stock axels!  I'm just
saying if you make the axel so it is able to take a lot more torque, then
you will be putting that torque through the rest of your driveline.  They
may have been purposefully made the weakest link in the system because they
are easy to replace, out on safari.  Would you prefer to pull the diff and
play with spiders, ring gears, or pinions in the middle of nowhere?!

>The tranny must be strong enough or they would be breaking left and
>right with the saulsburys.
True...
Do saulsbury equipped vehicles have the IIA or III boxes?
Mighthey be made for the 5-speed box?
I seem to remember them being in the IIIs - don't know though.

>I will ask them, especially since I don't do machining. As I stated in a
>previous e-mail which so far hasn't gone throuth yet, I will also ask them
>exactly what type/grade steel will be used.
Jim, I'm just learning myself, and know practically nothing
compared to those in a machine shop.  I must o' missed your post re. that.

Again - sorry for the pessimism -
I just think that putting a saulsbury on
would be a whole lot less quirky, and cheaper.

Now - I've got to study for my stats exam tommorrow.
I promise not to check my mail, for...
at least another...
10 minutes!

:   )

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 21:00:18 +1100
Subject: Fw: Prelude Seats fit LR

>I was at the LR 50th Anniversary and I noticed a nice '59 Series II 
>with even nicer seats.  I asked the owner what they were from and 
>he said a Honda Prelude but couldn't remember which year.  
>I photographed them.  If you want a copy of the pix emailed, let me 
>know.
>Ron

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 19:19:52 +1100
Subject: LR passengers...

Ron wrote:
>>I married a Swiss.  Totally different!

Alan responded:
>So, have you been organized and regimented to death yet? 8*)

Yep, and here was I, hoping to be seduced to death. Sigh!

Ron

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 07:35:11 +0100
Subject: Barman's christmas box

I'd like to echo the thanks and admiration for Bill's efforst in
"running this pub" - ok he gets grumpy when we post too many test
messages - but think about it folks, he keeps this pub open 24 hrs a
day, 365 days a year. So what if the pork pies are a tad dry?

Maybe we should pass the hat around, and see what cyber offerings we can
put together for our benefactor in the Yuletide season?

Any ideas?

Adrian Redmond

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 07:41:38 +0100
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

The idea seems attractive - but lets think about it.

Rear axle half shafts usually only break when we abuse our car, like
driving in 4WD on tarmac. In 15 years with three rovers, I have broken 2
half shafts - one in the first week of ownership of rover #1, and one
which "went" on my wife when I was in Alaska a few weeks ago.

That's not a bad batting average. Now if we stengthen the axles, so that
they no longer function as the "fuse" in the system, which part of the
drive chain will be the next to break? The diff? The tranny? The output
shaft? the clutch? or even the engine itself?

It seems to me that if anything should break, the half shafts are a
perfect candidate - easy to replace, and driving home is still possible
with the power to the other axle. No bits flying loose under the truck,
no bits lying loose in the engine.

For those with an 88" who really need a stronger rear axle - fit a
salisbury - a few modifications and this is possible. And spares are
still to be had.

that's my pennyworth!

Adrian Redmond

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 07:47:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Strong 10 spline axles!

That the Salisbury may be heavier, thus putting more wieght low down,
does not really affect stability, because stability is all about the
weight/mass/ centre of gravity of the vehicle ABOVE the axles - the bit
that swings on corners and bumps. The axles remain (at least in theory)
"fixed to the road" whilst the rest of the truck rolls above them.

I seem to remember a much better explanation of this principle some
moths ago on the list

Adrian Redmond

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 20:52:46 -1000
Subject: Re: Temp sender

>> "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> wrote:
>>Sandy, was wondering where/how the sender was installed.
>I figured that the T-box would be the only part really working harder when
>I installed the overdrive back in '78, so a temp sender seemed like a good
>safeguard.  

Thanks for the info.
Pete

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 08:06:57 +0100
Subject: starting heaters

On my Alaska trip I discovered that US vehicles in the Arctic have a
wealthof starting aids - besides the block/core heater which we know
about here in denmark, they have dipstick heaters, oil pan heaters,
gearbox heaters, battery heater pads and jackets, and even internal
heaters. Most trucks have at least three of these fitted, some with the
addition of a battery charger which is put on when parking overnight in
sub-zero temperatures. I tried a vehicle with this rig, the first nigfht
I didn't plug it in - next day - 10 hours later, it was impossible to
start. Next night, i used the gear, and the next morning it started at
the first turn of the key.

These gizmos are cheap and easy to find in any big US mall - sears, Fred
Meyer, K-mart - but unfortunatly they are all 120 volt. Short of rigging
them in series for european applications, I don't know how to find any
which i can use on this side of the pond where the electric potential is
of a more reasonable level - 220 volts (that should start a flame war in
itself?)

Does anyone know of sources for 220 volt engine heaters like the above?

Adrian Redmond

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 00:33:03 -0700
Subject: well, Sid's alternating again

Thanks to all who helped with the alternator problem. After practically
redoing its entire harness, testing every way possible, etc, I decided to
pull the devil out and spring for a replacement (tired of working in cold
parking lot!). After pulling, I found the plug (with sense and charge light
leads) was tough to remove. When I finally got it off, I saw why. The
little ceramic insulator block that holds the prongs had cracked and was
loose in the housing. That would explain my charge light mysteries and the
alt.'s untimely death. So, I walked into town with the core in my backpack,
shopping for the best price. This time, I spent the extra $10 on the better
warranty (2 year replacement, lifetime half price). They were also having a
"NASCAR Gold" promotion, so the pulley is gold plated (oooohhh, aaaahhhhh).
If you're wondering, it was $35+$10 for warranty from Champion Auto Store.
Last one from NAPA was $60 for less amps and lousy warranty. This is a
small case Delco 63 amp (up from previous 43, just in case). Thanks again,
and it sure is good to have Sid back. Oh yes, drew another crowd today for
my hand cranking show. It's true, a Series Rover can make anyone smile :-)

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 10:39:57 +0200
Subject: Re: Clutch master and slave pairing (SIIA)...??

>   Can I simply adapt the larger steel line down to a smaller flex line?

> volume. But, will it be enough of a problem to cause the slave to not work
# correctly?

Jeff I don't think that adapting the line in the way you describe will 
affect the performance unduly.  The clutch pedal may be marginally 
stiffer/slower in operation because the velocity of the fluid in the 
smaller section of pipe will be higher, but the overall effect should 
be slight.  I would think that the diameter of the pipe is over-
specced in the first place.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 06:05:06 EST
Subject: Re: Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

In a message dated 98-12-14 18:18:39 EST, you write:

<< Is it blowing into the valley?  >>

Nope - straight into a water jacket, pressurizing the cooling system, and
forcing coolant out of the overflow tube. No water in oil, no nothing!

Guess I'm kinda lucky - I remember killing my first car - a 1969 MGB-GT -
while racing a friend of mine...blew head gasket very badly, mixed water/oil,
and wiped out all the bearings! But hey - I was young and foolish then...

At least this time, I had some stop leak!

Charles

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 06:15:02 -0500
Subject: Re: well, Sid's alternating again

Joseph,

If you didn't give them the old one as a core, the bit that's gone bad on your
old one is about 8 bucks to replace, and not hard to do.

If you want details, email me and we can take it off the list.

                         Alan

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 06:11:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter Turns, No Fire

Yes - the points.

First off, get the distributor cap off and look at the points as the engine is
being cranked - are they opening and closing?

If so, then put a te4st lamp to 12 volts on one side and the points on the other
- the lamp should flash on and off as the engine is cranked. If neither of these
is happening, then rectify the problem.

Coils rarely go flat-out dead - it's usually power to the coil that goes out and
causes the mischief.

If it's still not sparking after that, put the test lamp across the coil
low-tension connections and make sure the electrical contacts are good there. If
they're OK there, then most likeky you've got a bad coil or coil lead.

                         ajr

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