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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:23:10 -0400
Subject: Re: hrrrumph !

Could we say that Bill is feeling a little testy today?
John and Muddy

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> just trying to jump start the grinch into life again - it seems to have
> worked.
> Nice to have R5S8 again
> Adrian Redmond
> (who's in Whoville #15262733883838881A)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> mobile GSM (EFP unit)               +45 40 74 75 64
> mobile GSM (admin)                  +45 40 50 2

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:03:19 -0500 (EST)
Subject: roller bearings - how to tell if worn?

Hi,
I'm overhauling my wheel bearings in my basement.  Put in new distance
pieces on the stub axles (they were scored) and will be replacing the 
seal that rides on it.  I'm taking the hub apart and the races look
pretty good, as do the roller bearings.  Is there a way to know when
a roller bearing is worn and needs replacing (grooves in the rollers,
too much slack and play, etc.)?  In restoring my LR, I don't want to
apply shipfitter's disease and replace everything in sight, so want to
keep those pieces that are still usable.  Any pointers re: how to tell
if bearings need replacement would be much appreciated.  Regards,
	--Robert
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:23:37 EST
Subject: Re: roller bearings - how to tell if worn?

In a message dated 12/13/98 9:04:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca writes:

> In restoring my LR, I don't want to
>  apply shipfitter's disease and replace everything in sight, so want to
>  keep those pieces that are still usable.  Any pointers re: how to tell
>  if bearings need replacement would be much appreciated. 

Clean them in kerosene, gasoline, brake cleaner, whatever.  Get them so you
can see the surfaces clearly.  

They are worn if you see any blue discoloration of the bearing surface
(generally a pale blue), or irregularities in the surface finish or (of
course) if they do not appear uniformly round.

If all is ok, make sure no cleaning fluid is still on them, repack with
grease, working it into the bearings and put it all back together.

Nate

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:06:36 +0100
Subject: Re: roller bearings - how to tell if worn?

Checking the conical roller bearings of the rover axles is easy.

Wear is not a problem if it is even - that is if all sides of all roller
races have been worn down by the same amount - as the bearing is
conical, this wear will be "taken up" when the bearing is refitted and
tightened up.

What is a problem is if any individual rollers show excessive wear,
uneven wear, scoring, or signs of overheating.

1.
Excessive wear is wear on one roller which is more noticeable than the
other rollers - the roller is "thinner" and will not bear its load - the
axle - evenly - thus soon causing vibration and more wear.

2.
Uneven wear is wear on one or more rollers, so that the roller
circumference is no longer perfectly circular and concentric with the
roller axis - in time this sort of wear will have the same effect as
(1.) and the race should be replaced.

3.
Scoring is fine lines in the roller surfaces - or in the mating female
race which fits into the hub. Scoring can be discovered by lightly
scraping the roller or race with your finger nail - if there are scores,
they will soon cause 1. or 2. Scoring us usually coase by small
abrasives like hard grit or metal (broken diffs?) getting between the
moving parts of the race.

4.
The bearings work because they allow two parts to move against each
other by rollinging instead of dragging. The less friction, the less
wear. Oil or grease, depending on the place they are used and your
particular lubrication philosphy, have the effect of reducing friction,
and therefore reducing heat. If a bearing is dry and clean, it will
still work, but if it is dry and dirty - which is usually the case with
older bearings which lack lubrication, the friction will increase and
the bearing will heat up. Repeated heating and cooling will anneal or
soften the metal, allowing friction, grit or uneven wear to incurr more
damage. Therefore do not reuse a bearing which shows signs of
overheating. Bearing steel will usually turn bluish when heated, so this
is the sign to look for.

My recipe for servicing and checking bearings is as follows -

Remove the bearings and wipe excess grease, oil, dirt off.
Soak the bearing in petrol to disolve all grease. (alternativly use oil
remover)
Wash the bearing in petrol several times to ensure that all grease is
removed (alternativly use oil remover and hot water)
Wash the bearing with hot water - preferably at high pressure
Blow the bearing dry with compressed air
Clean and polish the bearing with a rag, carefully inspecting all moving
parts
Dry the bearing thouroughly - for instance with a hair dryer,
heater-blower or oven to remove moisture
Lightly oil the bearing with machine oil and store in a sealed plastic
bag, remove all excess air from the bag before sealing

when refitting, wipe the light oil of as best as you can
repack the bearing with grease or oil according to taste
fit the bearing into the hub
pack no more than 75% with grease (if you are of the greasy persuasion)
tighten and drive....

Most bearings, especially original Timkin (British) or SKW (Swedish)
will last practically for ever if looked after. The rover IMHO is
comfortably overdimensioned on this point, which makes it a sturdy
roller. Therefore good maintenance, and thourough inspection and
cleaning will save £££££ or ------ (insert the currecny of your choice
here).

Usual disclaimers, good luck...

-- 

Adrian Redmond

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From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 07:31:38 -0800
Subject: New addition to the fleet

Hey Gang,

Well I'm going to have to subscribe to the coiler list, I added a 1990 
Range-Rover County to the fleet today.  Got it for $7,600 from some guy who was 
in 
desperate need ( heading to jail next week ).  The body is straight and the 
engine seemed to run good but the interior is a filthy.  I've got it at the 
dealership to have it checked out.  Then I will have the inside detailed and a 
new headliner fitted before I bring it home to my SO.  It will be hers when I 
get a new work truck in about 6 months.

The purchase of this vehicle must go down as the most tense Rover purchase in 
North America if not the world.  The chap I bought it from is located in the 
rough ( I mean rough ) part of NE Portland.  He had it listed for $9,500 ( it 
has 91,000 mile on the odometer ) in the Oregonian.  I looked at it on Thursday 
and made arrangements to take it to the dealer on Friday.  The dealer informed 
me Friday afternoon that they were not going to be able to get to it.  Since 
this guy was going on an all expense paid trip, I decided to offer him a figure 
in cold hard cash.  He took it.  I then high tailed it to the DMV to transfer 
the title.  To my disbelief, the title needed one more signature ( I had 
verified the fact the Rangie was not stolen with my local police office ).  I 
then 
rushed back to the seller who of coarse had spent a portion of the money.  To 
make a long story short, I ended up driving this guy all over town Friday night 
looking for his not to be found uncle and all day to day waiting in his house ( 
hoping to not become a crime statistic as shady characters came an went ) for 
the uncle to arrive.  Luckily he did and I now have clear title the Rover.

I now need to come up with a fitting name.  'Dog Sled' come to mind because the 
main selling point to the SO was that she can now take our 2 large dogs 
anywhere she goes but then it might be cool to find a name based on the 
troubles to get the damn thing.  Your suggestions are welcome.

John Putnam
Forest Grove, OR
'70 SIIa SWB 'Rhino'
Yet unnamed 90' RR County

P.S.

First time I've been in an actual LR dealers shop.  Pretty damn sheik.

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From: "Cort Esch" <cortesch@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 07:31:03 PST
Subject: Acceptable chassis?

Well...
 
My wife and I have been on the coil sprung list for a year, but it's 
time to move over here as well since we are seriously considering a 
Series.  We pretty much have our hearts set on an early IIA 109 SW.  
I've been teaching myself auto mechanics on the Rangie and Disco, so I 
think I might be up to the challenge.
 
Now, with the intro and background out of the way, I was wondering what 
constitutes an acceptable chassis.  We really liked this '65 diesel we 
looked at yesterday, but without looking in every nook and cranny I 
found three holes in the frame.  A nickel-sized hole between the weld 
points of a rear spring hanger, a quarter-sized hole in the middle of a 
side rail, and a  3-quarter hole where a side rail attached to the rear 
cross member (actually looked like a cut rather than corrosion hole).
 
Do I need to put this thing out of my mind, or do people make due with a 
few patches until they can afford (time and money) a galvanized chassis 
swap?  The main attractions to this particular vehicle were the body 
(good) and interior (excellent) condition, and the fact that it was 
99.9% original.
 
Anyway, to pull my question out of this, at what point does a vehicle 
need to be ruled out because of the frame?
 
Now, if I can only learn to drive a stick  :)
 
Thanks, Cort
 

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From: rs@seastrom.com (Robert E. Seastrom)
Date: 13 Dec 1998 10:54:28 -0500
Subject: Re: ...speaking of brake drag...U-Haul!

CIrvin1258@aol.com writes:

> Rented a "car transporter" from U-Haul today...
> ...
> Watch out for those bastards!

Seconded.  I have gotten some of the nastiest worn-out, defective, and
outright dangerous equipment from them.  And their service sucks.  But
they _are_ cheap.  Guess you get what you pay for.

I have gotten in the habit lately of going to the local tool-rental
place; they have some nice trailers that are twice the daily cost of
the U-Haul, but they are 1 or 2 years old, and in pristine condition.
They also color-match my '97 Disco SD (alpine white) perfectly.

                                        ---Rob

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@netscape.net>
Date: 13 Dec 98 08:57:47 MST
Subject: Patches on frame

Hi all-

Cort was asking about patches on the frames.

Cort-normal. Hell, I got patches on patches!!

If you do get this one I would have the spots you have seen patched up;
although the hoes you found sound like SPOTs!

Art Bitterman
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 10:00:32 -0600
Subject: Alternative seats

I knew of a guy who was using a set of seats in his 109 sourced from an
early '80s Mitsubishi Starion Turbo.  They seemed a good fit and even had
"Turbo" stamped into the leather of the headrest.  On second thought, maybe
you should avoid these as they will make you long for a TDi under the
bonnet to match the seats!

Brian

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:03:48 +0100
Subject: Re: Acceptable chassis?

This sounds like a good chassis - the holes to avoid are those where you
hammer to underside or topside of the chassis and open a two foot ling
"zip" which needs capping. It's hard to check the topside of the chassis
members with the box on.

Traditional "weak points" for series II, IIA and III chassis are -

Side and tops of front forks (suspension mounts)
All suspension mounts
Rear cross-member
top, sides, bottom of rear half of chassis

and noteably (though not chassis) -

footwells
front door post on side of firewall
lower front inside edge of radiator panel (breakfast)

underside/side of chassis where it sits close to exhaust pipe -
especially on SIIA and early III's which use sideways pointing manifold.

Thankfully all the above are available a separate parts - easy to
change, and many small holes can be repaired without whole parts, steel
plate being adequate.

The question is, how capable or equipped are you to solve these problems
yourself - with a simple welder and a steady hand - or a friendly welder
and a crate of Guinness, it's not too bad.

There is a whole topic about whether you underseal the outside of the
chassis or just paint it - I won't go into that here suffice to say that
I'm of the painting persuasion as I like to be able to see the rust to
cure it in time - but undersealing has its good arguments too - horses
for courses really.

Otherwise - go for it!

Adrian Redmond

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@netscape.net>
Date: 13 Dec 98 09:04:28 MST
Subject: Alternative seats

FWIW, I got somme racing seats from Summitt Racing in the "Aardvark". High
backs and side. Cost $120 for the pair with the vinyl padded covers.

Only draw backs is the high sides make it a bit of a bother to get in and out,
but once your'e in-commfortable!! I've even taken cat naps in them-no
problems.

Not original-but I'm cheap!!

Art Bitterman
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: WORKMEISTR@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:09:29 EST
Subject: Land Rovers in Alaska

Hi, all,
   Mike Tompkins asked about the little beasties in Alaska and how well they
hold up.  I had my '72 88" for two years in Fairbanks and the '65 109" SW for
a year.  (Hi, Adrian!)  If you think your Landie is loud, now, imagine
starting the thing at minus 55 degrees.  The seats are rock hard, the rig
shakes as it turns over, and when it fires to life the truck rattles from the
condensation freezing overnight.  It's heaven. 
    I ran 5W-30 Castrol motor oil and 75W synthetic gear oil.  I had engine
block heaters (a real pain to install on a Series), a 150w transmission heater
pad, a 200w oil pan heater pad, a battery heater pad, and an internal 110v
heater that attempts to keep the interior compartment a few degrees warmer
than the ambient air.  You plug your vehicle into 110v outlet where ever you
go.  There are outlets at the grocery stores, at work, everywhere.
    There are about a million vehicle repair shops in Fairbanks.  The cold
really does a number on the drivetrain and powerplants of cars.  New cars are
very susceptible to the cold.  All I can say is that neither one of my Series
Rovers have ever been in a shop due to a failure.  Rovers first because Rovers
last.  Good day.

Bren Workman
109 Dublinsky St
Ft. Benning, GA 31905
(706) 689-2934
'72 88"  "Tilly"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"
'90 RR  (as yet unnamed)

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From: "Cort Esch" <cortesch@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:21:35 PST
Subject: Re: Acceptable chassis?

Thanks, Adrian,

Before we went to look at it, we did a lot of reading about what to look 
for on a Series.  Of course the hour I spent on it wasn't nearly enough, 
but many of the "traditional" problem spots looked good.  It had a 
couple small holes in each footwell, but nothing I could step through, 
and the rear cross member appeared to be quite solid.  The door hinges 
and plates looked good, but the window tracks all around were shot, 
etc., etc., etc.

>The question is, how capable or equipped are you to solve these 
problems
>yourself - with a simple welder and a steady hand - or a friendly 
welder
>and a crate of Guinness, it's not too bad.

It's funny you brought this up.  This is the one aspect of this 
potential purchase that my wife is really excited about.  She claims to 
have done some welding in the past, but I have no idea where or what.  I 
think she's ready to go out and get a welder and give it a shot!

I can't get this thing out of my mind, so it looks like it may end up in 
the driveway.  It may come down to how negotiations go.

Thanks for your help.

- Cort

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 10:05:38 -0700
Subject: Re: Acceptable chassis?

Cort,

You'll recieve various answeres to your question. Here is just one ! I live
in Colorado in the USA. I do not accept frames with rust as described by
yourself. THe main reason being that in CO and the west we are very lucky
that little or no rust develops. We are spoiled. If you go to the east
coast, the folks out there will expect and tolerate a wide margin of rust
based on the state the vehicle is registered in.

In Europe you have a wide range of acceptability as well. Go to UK and rust
is expected due to the lovely northsea environment. go to Spain and you do
not expect as much. I've seen a vehicle that was imported to the US from
Denmark that at first glance looked OK. After scapping away the rubberized
undercaoting from the frame...It was a total loss!!

So...after all this, decide what is acceptabel to yourself, and what you can
expect to find in the region you are looking!

Good Luck, and welcome to leafers! I too have both a Disco and a Series...My
series is my favorite! Much more stylish!

K. John Wood
Solihull Society President
www.solihullsociety.org

Cort Esch wrote:

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 07:50:11
Subject: Re: best method to restore/improve 2.25

	Thanks for the idea.  That is one that hasn't come up before.  Does
require taking the block down to the machine shop but if you are rebuilding
it anyway, you will have to have it bored and could deck it at the same time.

Aloha Peter

A
>It may be possible to get a bit more compression by having the block
>decked. Most pistons don't come to the top of the block at TDC. By
>milling the block, you can actually have the pistons protrude slightly
>above the block, but still below the surface of the head gasket. I'm not
>sure how much extra compression you could get out because I don't know
>all the dimensions of a Rover engine , but you could ask a machine shop
>if it would be worth doing. And while I can't find my book to confirm
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>Jim Hall
>Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: "Jeff and Chris Jackson" <jcjcj88@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 12:56:29 -0800
Subject: Alternate Seats

I've mounted seats from a late model Honda Prelude in my SIII.  Like Art
says, the bolsters are a bit high on the sides and make getting in/out a
little harder (though I don't even notice it anymore).

By modifying the Prelude seat bases slightly (cutoff tool and hacksaw,
nothing sophisticated), I was able to mount them to the stock slider mounts.
The vertical bolt stocks on the slider mounts go up through holes in the
seat base, and four bolts hold the seat in place.  And the Prelude's plastic
bits which cover dress up seat track hardware even fit nicely.

Since my aux gas tank requires that I have access beneath the drivers seat,
I usually just leave those nuts hand tight.  30 seconds and the seat pops
right off.
The best part is that if I wanted to I could put the stock seats back in
place in under an hour.

Oh - and if you're looking in a junkyard for the seats, make sure that the
seats aren't blood stained (hard to detect on dark cloth - if you think a
stock Series rover is a babe repellent, try one with bloody seats).  Also,
check to be sure that the seat frames were not damaged in the impact.

Jeff

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From: "Steve Rochna" <mns@oasisol.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:35:17 -0800
Subject: Two Barrel Weber

I know this has been askerdand answered but I didn't write it down.  What
is the part number of the two bbl that fits the Rover and what kind of cars
can it be found on?

Thanks - Steve

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From: "bill.di" <bill.di@cwix.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:54:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Wet Seal

I've been having trouble getting messages to the list.  Hope this one makes it 
...

Finally got to investigating my low compression numbers, after all the good 
advice I received last July from Paul Quin, Alan Richer, D & C Walker, etc..

The numbers back then were:  (1) 113, (2) 113, (3) 117, and (4) 116 psi (8:1 
engine hot, carb blocked open, primary wires disconnected).   Today they are 
within 6 psi of these.  Squirted about 25 ml's of 20W-50 oil in each cylinder, 
rotated a few times and then got  167, 158, 157, and 158 (same test conditions 
as before except the 25 ml's).   These "wet" numbers likely finger the cylinder 
rings/bores.  Ran out of time before I could pressurize the cylinders to listen 
for leaks out the tailpipe, but  I gather that the "wet" numbers may tell me I 
should check the valve adjustments.

Thanks again!

Bill in Albuquerque

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:17:32 -1000
Subject: Re: Acceptable chassis?

>I can't get this thing out of my mind, so it looks like it may end up in
>the driveway.  It may come down to how negotiations go.

When you were inspecting the chassis for rot, did you poke around with a
screw driver?  You would be amazed at how easily you can poke through what
looks like good steel sometimes.  The area that you found the holes in, just
because a hole is only 1" in diemeter doesn't mean that the rust area isn't
much much larger.  Of course, a very important factor with the vehicle is
how much $$$ you are spending on it.  When we first got on island, I needed
to find a daily driver to get to school and back.  Found a real cheap
cherokee.  The floor was rusted through in the back load area near the tail
gate, but the rest appeared fine.  I ended up having to weld in an entire
new floor in order to ensure that the repair panel was welded to good steel.
Now I did get it 'very' cheap so it all worked out.  Just make sure that you
are not spending too much for the vehicle.
Aloha
Pete

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:39:52 -0600
Subject: Packing Hub bearings.  How much grease is enough.

Well this stems back to my greasy front brakes.

I am pretty sure the stuff is coming from the hubs.  I plan to replace the
oil seals (again, carefully, again).  I want to make sure that I do not
unknowingly repeat some mistakes.  

What is the correct way to pack front hubs with grease and how much grease
is enough?

Cwolfe

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:28:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Packing Hub bearings.  How much grease is enough.

>I am pretty sure the stuff is coming from the hubs.  I plan to replace the
>oil seals (again, carefully, again).  I want to make sure that I do not
>unknowingly repeat some mistakes. What is the correct way to pack front
>hubs with >grease and how much grease is enough?

Charles -
Tell us what hub seals you used,
which side of the hub seal you put towards the inside
(the side which will come into contact with the oil), and
if the metal the seal rides on is scored from past oil seal wear.
Mistakes here would present a problem.

There is an alternative to the "original" seals.  It is double lipped, one
for holding crud out, and one for holding oil in.  It is a National /
Federal Mogul - can't recall the part number now, though its in my records
somewhere.  These are the seals I've installed 6 months or so ago - Soon
I'll pull the drums and check them out - though my breaking is fine.  I
also, just to be safe, put some formagasket stuff between the hub and the
metal which holds the rubber of the seal.

If the metal the seal rides upon is scored from "original" seals, using the
altenative puts the rubber of the seal at a different position i.e., not in
the wear grove.

Make sure your axel breathers are clean too.

I wouldn't think that your leak would be due to the amount of grease put in
you hubs (within reason), or to incorrectly putting the grease on.  There
is also another debate out here as to whether grease is actually needed in
there.  My (novice) understanding is that the hubs are oil lubed from 90wt
running along the axels.  The initial application of grease or oil during
assembly merely serves as a starting point, before the juices begin to flow.

G'Luck - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:06:08
Subject: RE: seats

>  Just wondering what people can tell me about a highback seat alternative
>for the Series Rovers in the US? While I know Defender seats make good
>replacements, they are expensive. As are seats from a Jaguar XJS, but they
>look like a great candidate. Shipping over a new set from the UK is also
>expensive. I've tried seats from a Volvo 240, and they are comfortable but
>too deep in the seat back, so clearance to the wheel and legroom go down
>quite a bit.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
>set of used '85 front seats from a local breakers).
>  Any ideas?

I have actually been thinking about the J%%p seat backs. I haven't measured
or anything yet, but they look like they might fit.

Jim Wolf

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:15:07
Subject: RR name

>I now need to come up with a fitting name.  'Dog Sled' come to mind
because the 
>main selling point to the SO was that she can now take our 2 large dogs 
>anywhere she goes but then it might be cool to find a name based on the 
>troubles to get the damn thing.  Your suggestions are welcome.
>John Putnam

John, how about "Rover of Disrepute" 8^).

Jim Wolf

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:32:30 -0700
Subject: Re: vacuum gauges

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 14:14:50 -0700
Subject: vacuum gauges

>There's been some talk lately on the usefulness of vacuum gauges. Could
someone explain to me exactly why these are useful and what info they give?
I assume they monitor the vacuum in the intake manifold which would
increase with greater amounts of fuel/air. Are these the same as the
green/yellow/red "fuel economy" gauges that I've seen in taxis and the like?

In my opinion, a manifold pressure gauge (vacuum gauge) and a tachometer
are the only two instruments needed to manage an engine.  Obviously, things
like oil pressure, amps, coolant temperature, and fuel quantity are
important, too, but not for actually managing the engine.  A speedometer is
pretty much worthless in my opinion, especially in a Series Land Rover
which is pretty hard pressed to exceed anybody's speed limits, which is why
I simply removed my speedometer when it broke in 1977 during a trip to the
Yukon.

A manifold pressure gauge tells you how hard an engine is working.  The
so-called economy gauges found in some cars are just manifold pressure
gauges with dials marked in a fashion laymen can relate to: "poor" fuel
economy, "average," "high," whatever.  A manifold pressure gauge is
measuring just that: the pressure in the intake manifold.  Because
carbureted engines "suck" in the fuel/air mixture, the manifold pressure
will be below 1 atmosphere, usually calibrated as x-number of inches of
mercury (in/hg).  At idle, with very little fuel/air mixture being sent to
the manifold, the pressure will be at its lowest point because the
cylinders are trying to pull in mixture that isn't there.  At full
throttle, with lots of fuel/air mixture being sent to the engine, the
pressure will be at its highest.  In all cases, however, unless the engine
is equipped with a supercharger the manifold pressure will be less than 1
atmosphere.  The more you open the throttle, the higher the manifold
pressure will be.  By monitoring the gauge, you can see the results of
backing off even a tiny bit on the gas instantly, so you are constantly
aware of how much fuel you are using and how hard you're asking the engine
to work.

If you're going up a hill and you mash your foot to the floor, the manifold
pressure gauge will go damn near to the top of the scale.  What this tells
you is that a) you're using a lot of fuel, and b) the engine is really
having to work hard to maintain that rpm.  Shift to a lower gear, and while
the rpms will go up and you will go slower, you will see a lower reading on
the manifold pressure gauge.  This tells you that a) you're not using
nearly as much fuel as you were in the higher gear, and b) you're engine is
having a much easier time maintaining the rpm, which means among other
things that it won't be generating as much heat and that the the load on
things like connecting rod and crankshaft bearings won't be quite so high.

A vacuum gauge is exactly the same instrument as a manifold pressure gauge
internally, but its dial is calibrated the other direction.  So at idle,
where a manifold pressure gauge indicates a low reading, a vacuum gauge
indicates a high reading.  In other words, it shows a lot of vacuum.  At
full throttle, where a maifold pressure gauge shows a high reading, a
vacuum gauge shows a low reading because there's "not much vacuum" in the
manifold.  With the engine switched off, a manifold pressure gauge will act
as  barometer and indicate the current atmospheric pressure, whatever that
happens to be.  The vacuum pressure gauge will indicate "zero" or close to
it, as there is "no vacuum" at all in the manifold.

Automotive people seem to be able to relate to a measurement of vacuum
better than a measurement of pressure, so cars almost always have vacuum
gauges.  Pilots, mechanics, and flight engineers, on the other hand, want
to know what the actual pressure is inside the manifold, so airplanes are
equipped with manifold pressure gauges.  One advantage is that propeller
rpm, which is limited by the tip speed of the propeller (which cannot
exceed the speed of sound or Bad Things happen) often tends to be a very
similar number to the manifold pressure gauge, which makes it convenient to
remember the best engine and propeller settings.  In the Cessna 206 I used
to fly, one of the optimum cruise power settings I used was 23 inches of
mercury at 2300 rpm.  (Many airplanes have independent controls for the
throttle, which governs manifold pressure, and propeller pitch, which
governs engine rpm).  In the de Havilland Beaver I fly today which has a
450hp supercharged radial engine, cruise power is 28 inches of mercury at
1900 rpm.  At takeoff at sea level, the maximum manifold pressure is 42
in/hg, which is actually more than 1 atmosphere, which tends to wander
around between 28 and 32 in/hg.  The reason for the Beaver's high manifold
pressure is, of course, the mechanical supercharger, which is capable of
generating sea-level pressure (1 atmosphere) up to 5,000 feet above sea
level.

As you can probably tell, I relate more to manifold pressure than manifold
vacuum, so I installed a manifold pressure gauge in my Series III.  But a
vacuum gauge would suit the same purpose: it just depends on what kind of
numbers you're used to looking at.  Either way, it's an invaluable
instrument to tell you how hard your engine is working, and what sort of
fuel usage you're getting at any given moment.  I would love to put one in
our Range Rover but I haven't had the time or the guts to start cutting
holes in the instrument panel or root around in the engine bay looking for
the right pressure pickoff.  I don't know enough about fuel-injected
engines to know exactly where the right place is to pick off the pressure,
anyway.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:37:03 -0700
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:10:51 -1000
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

>Just want to make sure I got this straight:

>The Rover uses a GM aluminum V-8 which is attched to the Chrysler 747 auto
tranny?
If this is correct, exactly what mods were made to connect the two?
I have rebuilt a number of 727's and TH-350's(what you would expect to find
behind the GM engine) and the bolt patterns are not that close.
If it is the tranny that has been modified, then couldn't you swap in one of
the newer GM torque controlled auto boxes?

I'm sure you know your statement really should be "The Rover USED a GM
aluminum V-8 which is attached to the Chrysler...."  Since the mid-1980s,
the automatic transmission used by Land Rover has been made by ZF.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:41:19 -0700
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:27:18
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

	>Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!

>>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
>DOES NOT!

Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK hospitals
because of the iron content?  It's the only beer I can stand: the typical
US lager is like drinking cow piss (and you don't want to know how I know
this...).

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:47:16 -0800
Subject: RE: Two Barrel Weber

I know this has been askerdand answered but I didn't write it down.  What
is the part number of the two bbl that fits the Rover and what kind of cars
can it be found on?

The 'Rhino' has a 32/36 DGV-5A.  I'm not to sure what they came out of but you 
can get one new for around $250 from Pierce Manifold.  At one point they gave 
me 
a good jetting to start out at based on their dino work. 

Main Jets		410/135
Emulsion Tubes		F6/F6
Aux. Venturi		4.5/3.5
Air Jets			150/150
Idle Jets		65/50

Personally, I would buy new and avoid the hassles of an old worn-out 
carburetor.  Next month the 'Rhino' will be getting a new one because of worn 
bushings 
that cost more to have replaced than buy new.

John Putnam
'70 SIIa SWB 'Rhino"
'90 RR County

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:03:12 -0500
Subject: Oil Pumps

Adrian asks about overhauling  on oil pump
 The LR oil pump is quite simple. it consists  of a couple of gears and a
pressure releif valve, overhauling consists of checking the end float in the
gears and re seating the relief valve.  The maual describes a method of re
seating the ball in the releif valve, simply use a ball of the appropriate
diameter and glue it to a rod, then lap in the seat similar to lapping a
valve, ensure that the grinding paste is removed completely, if you are
feeling wealthy, treat it to a new spring.  The oil pumps, with the
exception of the relief valve are rarely a problem, low oil pressure is more
usually associated with the oil flowing too freely somewhere in the circuit,
ie worn bearings, worn or over extended timing chain tensioner etc.
The 40 year old oil pump in my 2 1/4 puts out 100 psi when cold and 40 on
tickover when hot.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:19:58
Subject: Re: Packing Hub bearings.  How much grease is enough.

On a series, Hubs do not need to be packed with grease EXCEPT to keep them
from rusting if time elapses between installation and use.  The oil that is
leaking out is the lubrication.  Problem is, where is the oil escaping
from??? .  I have a similar problem with one of my front hubs, have changed
the distance piece and oil seal twice and am still getting oil leakage from
behind the brake backing plate.  Is there another possible source of oil
leakage other than the oil seal in the hub????

Not much help for you but at least you know how much grease is enough.  If
the oil continues to leak, you can cram the swivels full of grease and hope
you get some lubrication to the bushings.  It will at least remove the
source of the leaking oil if it is coming from the swivel housing.  May
cause other problems in the long run, however.

Aloha Peter

At 01:39 PM 12/13/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Well this stems back to my greasy front brakes.
>I am pretty sure the stuff is coming from the hubs.  I plan to replace the
>oil seals (again, carefully, again).  I want to make sure that I do not
>unknowingly repeat some mistakes.  
>What is the correct way to pack front hubs with grease and how much grease

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>is enough?
>Cwolfe

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:25:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: vacuum gauges

C. Marin Faure wrote;
>As you can probably tell, I relate more to manifold pressure than manifold
>vacuum, so I installed a manifold pressure gauge in my Series III.

Hey, can you tell us who makes a good quality one?  Do they come in the 2
1/16 size?  My IIA has a hole in the I. manifold, which used to be hooked
up to a brake booster.  I've it capped off now.  It is formed in the
manifold, like at the factory, so it might be a series III.  Will I need a
converter piece from manifold to pressure transducer - and is this
something that would have to be fabricated?  Oh, one more Q. - what might I
be spending ?
Thanks - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Kirk Hillman" <kdhillman@home.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:39:14 -0700

	charset="iso-8859-1"

subscribe lro digest

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:54:37 -0800
Subject: Re: best method to restore/improve 2.25

The only time we deck a block is when the top has eroded due to being run
with a blown head gasket (usually between 2 and 3 cylinders. There is not a
lot of meat here and I doubt if you could take off more than 0.015 without
having problems with pistons hitting the head. Ray
----------
> From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: best method to restore/improve 2.25
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 11:50 PM
> 	Thanks for the idea.  That is one that hasn't come up before.  Does
> require taking the block down to the machine shop but if you are

rebuilding
> it anyway, you will have to have it bored and could deck it at the same
time.

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:03:21 -0700
Subject: well, it finally died (the alternator)

Well, the death of the charge warning light a couple of weeks ago seems to
have been the warning signs of alternator death. Tonight I went out to
start the beast and Sid barely turned over. Hand cranked and ran fine, but
the lights were dim and turn signals didn't even work. The only strange
part is it never stopped running. This makes me wonder if the problem's in
the sense lead. The warning light dying must have been telling me
something? The charge wire was acting correctly (as a ground when off) but
a very weak ground, not even enough to light the bulb. The alternator is a
reman. Delco 43 amp/internally regulated that I bought about 4 months ago.
I've checked wiring of course, and all seems well. The NAPA warranty I
think is 90 days for reman, which of course, just recently expired ;->. Any
suggestions on making the next one last a bit longer?

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Kirk Hillman" <kdhillman@home.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:30:07 -0700
Subject: weber
	charset="iso-8859-1"

John (Putnam),
    I have the 32/36 that hasn't ever seemed to run 'right'.  Where are =
you (elev. etc.)?  I pulled out the jets and so on at one point because =
I simply couldn't get the thing to idle down.  My 2.25 used to idle at =
750-800, now it hardly comes close to 1000, more often 1150.  I have no =
comlaints about the power though :-)
    I can almost consistantly climb hills in a higher gear now.

    Also, all this talk about the vaccuum gauges and such.  I must say I =
loved having my gauge for one reason, I could most literally 'see' my =
engine working.  Since I switched to the weber from the Zenith, I don't =
know where to put the vaccuum line.  Can someone help?  The line used to =
be attached directly to the Zenith, but I get the impression that wasn't =
the 'accepted' method of connection.  My truck was basically built from =
many others (I am slowly finding out) so I don't know what anything is =
supposed to look like.

Thanks heaps,
Kirk Hillman and the 'Banshee Hillman'

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:48:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: well, it finally died (the alternator)

>Delco 43 amp/internally regulated...
>...Any suggestions on making the next one last a bit longer?

Did you calculate your total amp draw?
You don't want it too near 40amps for a long amount of time.
PMK

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 21:01:02 EST
Subject: Renting manuals

On 12/13/98, Teri Ann wrote:

"When I was on a business trip in Colorado I got a new Toyota Land Cruiser.
That was a free upgrade to their most expensive rental car."

I did not know that rental agencies even had manuals.  Was this recently?
Which rental agency?

A couple of months ago in Chicago I got a Blazer because Alamo was out of
Cheapies.  Last year in Salt Lake City I got a free upgrade to a riceburner
4x4 merely for showing disappointment that they had no Land Rovers to rent.

To rent manuals, must we bring a note from Mom?

Paul Donohue
1965 RHD 109
Denver

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:04:23 -0600
Subject: RE: Packing Hub bearings.  How much grease is enough.

Thanks Peter

I never had this problem before so the concept of bad axle breathers is a
good concept.

I use the rubber/plastic seal obtained from RN and I used gasket sealant
around the edge.  The flat surface is to the outside of hub (toward centre
of vehicle) and the side that contains the spring ring is toward the inside
of the hub.

Will reluctantly dive itno this on Tuesday or Wednesday.

Thanks
cwolfe

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:14:04 -0700
Subject: Re: well it finally died (the alternator)

Peter asks:
>Did you calculate your total amp draw?
>You don't want it too near 40amps for a long amount of time.

Well, since I was replacing a 20amp genny, I figured 43amps was at least
sufficient. The only thing changed from stock are the headlights, cheap
sealed beam halogens from the parts store, shouldn't be drawing that much
current.

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:02:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Stalling

What's IsoHeet?
Sounds to me like symptoms of gas line freeze-up 'coz of accumulated water
in the tank. If IsoHeet is not gas line antifreeze then get some.

John Taylor
sIIa v6 bastard

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From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:02:52 -0500
Subject: Re: another nerd type(not) was RE: RPM = MPH

If the circumference of the tyre stays the same wouldn't the same distance
pass per revolution - even if the tyre is half way flat - unless major
slippage occurs for the portion of the tyre in the center of the contact
patch and the tyre rolls just on the side wall portion?

>BTW, size will also be very dependent on air pressure. One other
>thing, measuring the size of the tire is very misleading (especially
>if done with no weight on the tire. The important measurement is a
>loaded weight, and only measuring the radius from the ground to the
>center of the hub. This is the actual rolling radius and if you look
>at a tire with weight on, you will see the obvious flattening. Use
>this radius to figure the speed vs RPM.
>Clayton

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:06:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

>C. Marin Faure writes;
>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK hospitals
>because of the iron content?
That's interesting.  Iron because of "strengthing" properties - aneamea etc...?
Isn't there a slogan "Drink Guiness for Strength?"
Maybe there is some truth to it?!

>It's the only beer I can stand: the typical
>US lager is like drinking cow piss
>(and you don't want to know how I know this...).
Yes we do!  How the hell does one find out what cow piss tastes like?!

It ammuses me to find in some "pubs or bars"
tap options consist of Bud and Bud light!
What do you do to make Bud lighter?!!
5%EtOH and 95% H2O

Cheers
Peter - "Drink 90wt for Strength!" - Kaskan

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:15:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: another nerd type(not) was RE: RPM = MPH

>If the circumference of the tyre stays the same wouldn't the same distance
>pass per revolution - even if the tyre is half way flat

No, I don't think so.
What matters is the distance between surface and wheel center.
But maybe I stand corrected?

P

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:11:59 -0800
Subject: Another twist to my dilema

Okay fellas and TAW.

I was looking at my newest AB catalogue and they are now listing bearings:
    "Main Bearing Set II (58-61), (2 Litre Diesel I &II)"
    "Connecting Rod Bearing Set 21/4 (58-61) & 2 Litre Diesel"
These are listed in the Cat. but not on the price sheet.  This being the
weekend I haven't called AB to find out what the deal is.  Alain Hoffmann
wrote that his parts supplier in Luxembourg can get bearings for this engine
too.

This leads me to the question:  Is the early 2.25L petrol a variant of the
2L diesel? (of course it is) and will Diesel Bobs 2 litre diesel parts fit
my 2.25 L petrol?

As for the Stat housing it sounds that if I want a wax type stat I'll have
to switch to the later IIA housing.  But will this really gain me anything?
I can still get thermostats that will fit my housing so why change?
Something of note is that I have been running with the valve to the heater
box fully open (it leaks unless fully open or shut).  My spare head has a
different style valve that appears to be able to let me restrict/control the
flow better.  This should help resolve the cooling of the head&block around
No. 4.

So, now I will start my rebuild of the spare 1959 SII 2.25L petrol.
Bearings appear to be available form either Diesel Bob, AB or Rene Gengler
in Lux.

Any other advice on this?

We'll see what I discover next and I'll let the list know what I find

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:40:39 -0700
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

At 03:41 PM 13/12/98 -0700, C. Marin Faure, wrote

>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK hospitals
>because of the iron content? 

It was also given to babies that had digestive problems.  My grandfather,
who was a doctor in Wales, had me put on it for a while when I was about a
year old.  I can also remember advertisements in England and Scotland where
I was going to school that showed a mother and child with the slogan,
"Guiness is good!"

It's still damned good stuff.

                                                         Rick Grant

Rick Grant Associates,  Calgary Canada
Media Communications, Crisis Management, Media Training
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

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From: john hess <jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:41:37 -0700
Subject: front drive flanges wanted

Hiya,

My Birthday is Tuesday, and you can help me celebrate!

I'm going to pull the automatic hubs off the front of Elvis the Dormie and
want the plain old no hub drive flanges to put back on.  I bought new
flanges from Rovers North (Genuine!) and they're circular.  :^(  I want the
old style 6 finger things, not a circle thing.

If you have your old 6 finger style drive flanges from the front of your
rover, I'll give them a good home, please email me.

cheers,

John F Hess   jfhess@dcn.davis.ca.us
Land Rover Dormobile web pages:
http://wheel.dcn.davis.ca.us/~jfhess/homepage.html
1968 Land Rover Dormobile "Elvis"
1960 swb pu "Stubby" (actually Katherine's),

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From: moneymaker@lepton.cz
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:03:21 +0400 (GST)
Subject: Big Money Maker For Fundraisers or Entrepreneurs

[spamkill: MONEY input: %s]	 BIG MONEY MAKER FOR FUNDRAISERS OR 
ENTREPRENEURS

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:38:03 -1000
Subject: Re: Stalling

>What's IsoHeet?
Sounds like an ointment the doc perscribed when I tore a ligiment.

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 02:00:34 -0500
Subject: digester tuning

Well, recent results in killing dreaded unwanted e-mail have proved less than
perfect. The number of kills is still respectable, but the number of false
kills has not been that good.  The two folks with addresses @yah**.com have
been special cased, as it seems to be the latest darling sending address
of the mail sending crowd.

Once again, digests going back a few months, where there have been spam kills
are being re-done, and probably all of the digests will be redone for the
period from September, once the test set has been checked.

Cheers,
	-Bill

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:34:34 +0100
Subject: Re: digester tuning

Dear Bill,

Maybe I'm seeing this far too simply - but can't you get the najor to
dump ALL mail to any list, which come from anyone who isn't a subscriber
of at least one list or digest?

As I said - it might not be that simple?

Regards - this is not a test :-)

Adrian Redmond

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 01:41:50 -0600
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

Reminds me of the old joke:

How is Bud like making love in a canoe?

Both F*@#ing near water.

Guiness is ok but I prefer a good hearty homebrew.  Why buy want you can do
better at home.  

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From: smitty1@altavista.net
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 03:03:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: list tuning

Adrian said;
Dear Bill,
Maybe I'm seeing this far too simply - but can't you get the najor to
dump ALL mail to any list, which come from anyone who isn't a subscriber
of at least one list or digest?
As I said - it might not be that simple?
Regards - this is not a test :-)
Adrian Redmond

Dear Bill,
Being one of the Yah** folks that was getting axed, let me say that I can fully 
understand the need to protect the major from junk mail. I'm not upset in the 
least at having to do a work around from my end. I just use yah** for the 
convience of not flooding my home e-mail(the boss doesn't allow it for work 
e-mail 
either). Being a computer operator in the military I can appreciate what a 
thankless job running a big operation like the list could be. If we haven't 
said so 
lately, I'm sure the rest of the list would agree in saying "thank you" for 
running the list in the first place. Do what you have to do to keep the major 
healthy and rover on...:-)
Merry X-mas, Happy New Year, and Peace to you and yours. 
Cheers
Smitty

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From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:02:34 +0100
Subject: Re: LR passengers...

>And...  "Don't you have females in your country?"
>Actually Alain - There are virtually no females in the US.
>All those females you see in our wonderfull Hollywood productions;
>They are either Canadians, or cardboard profiles painted to look like
>Canadian women - or so I've been told.

I didn't know that :-o

>Hey Alain, when am I getting your 88 & two French females for front seat
>follies?!
>It's been like a week since you said you'd ship!
>Or did I misunderstand something?!
Sorry to be late, I didnt yet buy the 109...

>Peter - "patiently" waiting delivery - Kaskan   : )
You have to be very patient. ;-)

Alain

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From: Vince Sabio <vince@humournet.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 03:02:16 -0500
Subject: Re: digester tuning

** Sometime around 2:34 -0500 12/14/98, Adrian Redmond said:

>Dear Bill,
>Maybe I'm seeing this far too simply - but can't you get the najor to
>dump ALL mail to any list, which come from anyone who isn't a subscriber
>of at least one list or digest?

If the lists were configured to limit posting to only subscribed members,
then that would be possible (though tedious if there are a lot of lists).
However, these lists (RRO, CSO) are not configured in that manner, so
removing messages from non-subscribers could potentially cause a large
number of valid posts to be dropped.

Note that my comments about the configuration of these mailing lists are
not intended to be critical; the question of whether to limit posts to
only subscribed members has its pros and cons, and the final decision is
typically a function of the purpose and demographics of the individual
mailing list.

Vince Sabio            Boy & His Sabre: <http://www.insane.net/tsc/Vince/>
vince@humournet.com            Stop Internet Spam! <http://www.cauce.org/>

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 03:39:10 EST
Subject: Drove my smoky 109 diesel today...

...BECAUSE I BLEW THE &$^#*@% HEAD GASKETS ON THE RANGIE!!!!!

I have no experience with the steel head gaskets, except for having a set for
my SD-1 (won't fit my Rangie - it has a 3.9), and so I have a question, albeit
a semi-stupid one...

Is it possible to re-torque the heads and continue driving for a while, in
this kind of situation? I ask, having owned a TR-4, and presently a TR-3, both
of which have re-torqueable head gaskets - though they're considerably thicker
than what the Rangie uses.

If not, I'll simply visit BP Tuesday, and pick up a set. What timing - the
insurance gets renewed Wednesday!

Charles
P.S. Blew the gaskets while towing that damnded U-Haul trailer with the
dragging brakes!

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:21:28 +0200
Subject: Re: what about oil pumps (SIII 2.25 d)

> My 88" "often" shows a green oil light when the oil is new, viscous
# enough and full - usually when braking or cornering or stopping at
> junctions. Could this be oil pump problems? Or should I just stop
# writing about it in case oil pump faults, like everything else on a
> rover are in some way "verbally activated" - just think of the

Adrian I have seen exactly this 'problem' on a number of vehicles.  I 
believe it is to do with having good oil flow through the engine and 
the pickup coming partially out of the sump oil under adverse 
conditions...  I think that if a little bit of the pickup comes out of the 
oil it tends to try to pump air rather than oil and the pressure drops 
once the filter is emptied

On a SIII diesel the light would always come on under severe 
braking, cornering and steep descents.  Swapped oil pump for one 
from a vehicle which didn't do the oil light thing and it made no 
difference.

In the end I filled up the oil to the max. mark, parked the car on a 
35degree (ish) slope, nose down, so the oil light came on, and put 
in oil in until it went out.  Took about half a litre.

Have the same problem, but less so, in our SIII petrol.  I now 
always overfill the oil a bit, esp. when I know I am going to do off 
road work.  The oil light has been doing this as long as I can 
remember noticing; about 10 years.

Apparently there is a third party kit that can be used to change the 
position of the oil pickup so it stays longer in the oil.

Do not know the truth in this, but someone once told me that the 
kink in the dipstick of the LR is the level to which the oil can be 
filled if the vehicle is only used for stationary running; principle 
being to reduce the oil temperature I guess.  That must be about 
an extra 3 litres.

Thinking about it, I have only seen this happen on 5 main bearing 
engines.  Is yours a 5 main bearing?  I wonder that makes a 
difference...  More flow through 5 journals?!

> Or is it a case of "If it works, don't fix it"?

If the pressure seems fine apart from when you mention, and it isn't 
getting worse, then I'd say don't tamper.  If you do take it apart or 
replace it, then of all things make sure that the pressure relief valve 
is functioning correctly and has no bits of gubbins inside.  If that 
jams open then the engine gets no oil and will make Expensive 
Noises.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:24:26 +0000
Subject: Re: faulty glow plugs

>I have cured my glow plug problem - if anyone is interested, here's the
>circuit -
>(Some vehicles use parallel wired glow plugs, but not the stock rover
>2.25 diesel)

Throw 'em away Adrian.Buy a set of DieselGlow parallel wired ones.
I did.Never regretted it..
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 05:54:52 -0500
Subject: Re: Guinness taste

"Wolfe, Charles" wrote:

> Reminds me of the old joke:
> Guiness is ok but I prefer a good hearty homebrew.  Why buy want you can do
> better at home.

Yeah home brew is great but I'd much rather be drinking the real thing than
trying
to make it. And who could keep up with the demand?

Also, for a bunch of Guinness lovers, many of you can't seem to spell it
right.....
probably a case of trying to read the label after drinking two many.  Double
'n'!

Rover On,
Mike
'66 Hybrid Coiler 109 SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/8365/index.html
http://pw1.netcom.com/~mmglass/index.html

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:52:47 +0000
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

>>Did you know that Guiness used to be served to patients in UK hospitals
>>because of the iron content?
>It was also given to babies that had digestive problems.

And fed to racehorses.Supposed to give them energy.Wasnt the
slogan"Guinness is good for you".?

Mike Rooth

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