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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 11:03:34 -0000
Subject: Re: Guinness taste

sorry, wrong thread, we're discussing real beer here, not lager

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 09:18:57 -0000
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

When I was a young man trying alcohol for the first time older 'uns used to
say that Guinness was an acquired taste - but worth spending the time to
aquifer it.
BTW if you have never tasted Guinness sitting in O'Neils, in Dublin ,
then you ain't tasted it properly yet.

LR content, when some Land Rovering friends from Denmark visited my home I
took them for a pint of Thwaites' Mild (Award winning - described locally as
mothers milk) and they said it tasted like bread!!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 08:46:06 -0500
Subject: Re: filming in Alaska

Adrian Redmond wrote:

> Hi all!
> Nice to be back folks.
> Season's greetings!
> Adrian Redmond

And it is nice to have you back. Happy holidays!

So now let's hear about your adventures in Alaska. Any close calls with the
wildlife? Do you get a moose to pose for the camera?

And tell us about your visit to The Great Alaskan Bush Company. Don't
suppose
you got your cameras in there.

Do we have any LR owners in Alaska on the list? It would be interested to
hear
how well a LR holds up in the freezing temperatures. Can't imagine trying to
shift
through 90 wt at 40 below.

Cheers,
Mike
'66 hybrid coiler 109 SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/
http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Hills/8365/index.html
http://pw1.netcom.com/~mmglass/index.html

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[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 Return-Path: <esch@99main.com>
[spamkill: @[0-9][0-9]* input: %s]	 From: "Cort Esch" <esch@99main.com>

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 10:42:50 -0400
Subject: Re: burnt no.4 intake

Mitch, Are you certain about the bearings? The early cranks had a smaller 
journal
than the later so the bearings would be different in size too.
John and Muddy

Rovergo@aol.com wrote:

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 10:45:16 -0400
Subject: Re: burnt no.4 intake ? for Mitch

Mitch, are you certain about the bearings? The early cranks had a smaller 
journal
size than the later one so the bearings would be different too.
John and Muddy

Rovergo@aol.com wrote:

> Mitch
>  As has been mentioned this sounds like a problem caused by a lean mixture.
> when checking this out dont overlook the bottom side of the intake manifold
> where it meets the exhaust manifold, it has great potential for cracks in this
> area, you can use 11a bearings in place of the original 11 bearings. you just
> need to renotch the block on the opposite side from original, this can be done
> easily if you measure and mark carefully. then cut block slowly with a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
>  Pat Young.
>  ser 11a 88"

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 10:47:02 -0400
Subject: Re: burnt no.4 intake ? for Pat

Sorry the question was for Pat.

John Cranfield wrote:

> Mitch, are you certain about the bearings? The early cranks had a smaller 
journal
> size than the later one so the bearings would be different too.
> John and Muddy
> Rovergo@aol.com wrote:
> > Mitch
> >  As has been mentioned this sounds like a problem caused by a lean mixture.
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> > diegrinder or like tool. good luck.
> >  Pat Young.

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 11:03:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

We unenlightened ones should remember that some people actually Like the
taste of asphalt!!
John and Muddy

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:

>         Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!
> >>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
> >DOES NOT

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 98 07:08:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Synchro?  Was ist das?

>TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:
;
;>>"What! You say someone invented a syncro first gear??"

;>This is just a nasty rumor.  Probably nothing to it.  I have, however,  
heard
;>talk about second gear synchros.
;>
;>Paul Donohue

Paul, they are real.  I have one in my TR3.  It works just fine when the 
transmission oil is warmed up a little.  Except I'm so used to double 
clutching I mostly just do it anyway to anything in first or second. 

That left foot is hard to control if your'e buisy driving.  It once 
almost got me into a heck of a lot of trouble on a business trip to San 
Diego.  I rented a car with an auto gear box.  I had just left the air 
port and was in a multipleland road in moderatly heavy traffic when I 
spotted the road I was told to turn right on.  The lane to my right was 
going faster but a small hole was coming up.  So without thinking, as the 
hole came up I went to downshift to bring the revs up towards peak HP.  
Well the brake pedal on an auto equipped car is very wide and extends 
into the space normally occupied by the clutch pedal.  My left foot hit 
that power brake pedal like it was trying to depress a Land Rover clutch. 
 Before I had a clue what was going on the wheels were locked.  As I was 
trying to figure out what went wrong the car was sliding a little 
sidewise in moderatly heavy six or 8 lane traffic.  Luckally no one hit 
me.  Automatic reflexes an be real pesky sometimes.

If I rent a car I request one with a manual gear box.  I tell them that I 
can not drive a car with an automatic transmission.  When I was on a 
business trip in Colorado I got a new Toyota Land Cruiser.  That was a 
free upgrade to their most expensive rental car.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "bill.di" <bill.di@cwix.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 08:20:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Wet Seals

Finally got to investigating my low compression ratios, after all the good 
advice I received last July from Paul Quin, Alan Richer, D & C Walker, etc..

The numbers back then were:  (1) 113, (2) 113, (3) 117, and (4) 116 psi (8:1 
engine hot, carb blocked open, primary wires disconnected).   Today they are 
within 6 psi of these.  Squirted about 25 ml's of 20W-50 oil in each cylinder, 
rotated a few times and then got  167, 158, 157, and 158 (same conditions as 
before).   These "wet" numbers likely finger the cylinder rings/bores.  Ran out 
of time before I could pressurize the cylinders to listen for leaks out the 
tailpipe, but  I gather that the "wet" numbers may tell me I should check the 
valve adjustments.

Thanks again!

Bill in Albuquerque

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From: Dale Smith <smithd@bunt.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:52:33 +0100
Subject: grill badges

Has anyone heard any updates on the grill badges. 
I sort of got bumped by the list a while ago and haven't heard much
lately. Hopefully I have managed to sort my mail problem out.
Later
Smitty

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 11:03:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

Gentlemen, Please...

I only summarised a few basic rules I've learned here over the past year,
and then suggested a few politically correct ways to bring up touchy
subjects, like;

WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!

In doing so, it appears I've brought up a touchy subject.
I didn't mean to start a brawl - really I didn't - I swear.   :  )
So, Cheers to your replies...

DOES NOT

Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!

We unenlightened ones should remember that some people actually Like the
taste of asphalt!!

This is the WRONG place to taking the name of the holy water in vain.  This
is the virtual church of the black gold.  Go climb back into your Geo
Metro, crack open your Zima and drive your lame ass over to the bowling
alley...

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 11:06:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: grill badges

>Has anyone heard any updates on the grill badges.
>I sort of got bumped by the list a while ago and haven't heard much
>lately.

That's wild - I was literally just going to ask that - couldn't a 'been  30
seconds ago.
Anyway - Same ??s from me - P

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 12:26:29 -0500
Subject: Re: burnt no.4 intake ? for Mitch

John Cranfield wrote:

> Mitch, are you certain about the bearings? The early cranks had a
> smaller journal
> size than the later one so the bearings would be different too.

The main bearings are the same size on the II and IIA engines. The rod
bearings are larger on the IIA. I've compared II and IIA main bearing
shells, and they do appear the same other than the locating notches.

Does anyone know what is required to use an SIIA crank and rods be used
in a SII engine?

My guess is that the SII rods were originally sized to fit through the
bore of the 2.0 litre Diesel. When the Diesel went to 2.25 litre the rod
size was increased.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 23:37:41 -0700
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

>This is the WRONG place to taking the name of the holy water in vain.  This
>is the virtual church of the black gold.  Go climb back into your Geo
>Metro, crack open your Zima and drive your lame ass over to the bowling
>alley...
Hmmmm  maybe that was a bit too terse of a response...  Like the man said...
"Don't step on my blue suede shoes"...."Don't tug on superman's cape"
"Don't eat the yellow snow"  and most importantly...."Don't take the name
of Sir A. Guinness in vain"

God Bless

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy@gis.net>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 14:24:44 -0500
Subject: Series seat alternatives in US?

	
  Just wondering what people can tell me about a highback seat alternative
for the Series Rovers in the US? While I know Defender seats make good
replacements, they are expensive. As are seats from a Jaguar XJS, but they
look like a great candidate. Shipping over a new set from the UK is also
expensive. I've tried seats from a Volvo 240, and they are comfortable but
too deep in the seat back, so clearance to the wheel and legroom go down
quite a bit.
  I'm guessing any 2+2 seater (either a sporty coupe or an econobox) will
have seats designed with a low profile back for the sake of rear seat
passengers. Does anyone have any direct experience with any particular US
available model?
  I have no need to access the driver or passenger side toolbox, or top
cover (as they don't exist), so the issue of mounting custom seats and
losing that ability is null. Something cheap and plentiful is also
desirable. XJSs are not plentiful and definitely not cheap (~$400US for a
set of used '85 front seats from a local breakers).
  Any ideas?

Jeff Goldman
Boston, MA
http://www.gis.net/~roverboy

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 09:31:55 -1000
Subject: Re: Series seat alternatives in US?

>I've tried seats from a Volvo 240, and they are comfortable but
>too deep in the seat back, so clearance to the wheel and legroom go down
>quite a bit.

I went salvage yard hunting earlier this week searching for seats also.
Most I have been looking at have the same problem.

>  I have no need to access the driver or passenger side toolbox, or top
>cover (as they don't exist), so the issue of mounting custom seats and
>losing that ability is null.

I have narrowed the search down to seats that fold forward to gain access to
the rear seat.  These seats are two parts (seat and back) and will be easier
to modifiy if required to fit.  So far I have found some from 2-door
cherokee's, scouts, small mazda 2 door car, and nissan king cab pu's that
may fit.  But they all seam to have a thick back and may have the same
problem you mentioned.  I am going to check out a different yard this week
and will let ya know if I find anything better.
Pete

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 11:55:56 -0800
Subject: Re: faulty glow plugs

Adrian that is quite useful information. There is one big disadvantage of
the old series style plugs which is that when they fail the little heater
element often falls into the cylinder and damages the bore. For this reason
I usually suggest to people that they convert their glow plugs to the
parallel type (costs about US$70.00 a set). With the parrallel type if one
fails you can still start the motor!
You still need the resistor. Not many people realise why the resistor is
fitted and your explanation states this very clearly.
Ray Wood.

----------

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 13:56:40 -0600
Subject: Brake Drag from the lack there of...

Man oh man

This brake situation is just totally bumming me... 

Redid brakes and a whole lot more this summer.  Since then they have never
been ideal. New shoes, springs lines adjusted appropriate etc etc..  Never
got perfect pressure but they would bleed to acceptable  and stop well.
After driving a couple weeks got up to go to work and had no brakes as I
pull out of the dirt road.  No fluid.  Rebleed and it worked fine but I keep
a close eye on the fluid.  Slowly it was disappearing and I mean
disappearing.  I could find no leak at the master or any of the lines.  No
obvious leak from any of the backing plates.  Fluid disappearance rate seem
to increase.  Still no external sign of leak.  

So I jacked up the unit removed all the wheels and drums to explore a
possible leak at one of the brake cylinders...

Who could tell.  Hell, both front brake assemblies were all greased up from
somewhere.  I mean a mess.  There is no way if I could determine if there
was a fluid leak from these cylinders.  Needless to say I was not pleased to
find dinosaur remnants liberally smeared into my brake assemblies.  I had
repacked the bearings this summer and took great care in oil seal
replacement.  My SPH are holding oil so I am not sure of the source of this
mess.  What should my next step be to remedy the case of the greasy front
brakes?

Back brakes had some mess too but not near as bad.  Right rear was uniquely
messy and it may be the culprit for the source of the missing brake fluid.
Can't be sure whether it is grease or brake fluid for sure.

I have just rebuilt a master cylinder but I have not replaced that yet.
Will do soon but I think that is not likely even close to being my main
problem.

I was greatly appreciate some help in formulating a plan.  Since this is my
daily driver I have to mount a full fledge assault on this bug.

Thanks

Stay tuned for frame woes...

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 10:06:53
Subject: Re: best method to restore/improve 2.25

	It sounds like there is nothing wrong with the engine except the
distributor.  Performance doesn't sound all that bad, especially since your
sitting at a considerable distance above sea level.  Don't have the figures
in front of me, but guess you are down at least 10% on power just because
of altitude.  12-14 mpg is a little low on mileage but even a small vacuum
leak can cause that to happen.
	If the distributor is more than just slightly loose, change it.  You 
might
surprise yourself at the power of the 2.25 when its getting the properly
timed spark (don't ask how I know).  Going the unleaded route won't change
anything if the existing valves are doing okay.  If you have the 7-1 head,
milling it to 8-1 spec's will improve the performance somewhat, you can try
for a higher compression ratio than that but at your own risk.  Changing
the timing chain and its ancillaries also won't do anything if the ones you
are replacing are within spec.  Since you bought a new zenith and don't
want to fork out the $400+ for the two barrel weber, the other source of
easy power increase is out.  Did you change the jets in the new carb???  If
memory serves me right, you just moved from low altitude Virginia to high
altitude Montana which would probably need some high level carb tuning.
You might try a rochester carb as they are supposed to improve performance
and can be done cheaply, if you can get a deal on the carb.  With 120,000
miles on the engine, I would rebuild the oil pump and at least change the
rod bearings while you are at it.  With the typical condition of the oil
seals, redoing the main bearings and changing the rear oil seal wouldn't
hurt.  A bad top end is a problem, a bad lower end is a disaster.  
	By this time we are practically into a major overhaul, so you might as
well go all the way.  If you can find a discarded block in borable
condition (I've got four in my shed), and bore it out to 60 over, put in a
2.5 cam, balance everything and reassemble.  Porting and polishing the
head, etc. will give you some additional oomph but are primarily for high
rpm benefit and of doubtful efficacy unless you have a die grinder and
nothing better to do.  
	A total engine rebuild using your labor ain't too awfully bad on the
pocket book, by the way.  Parts and machining are around a $1,000.
Assembling the engine isn't rocket science if you take your time, follow
the manual (that's not Manuel's cousin by the way), and have an authority,
like the list, when you get stumped.  Won't take more than a week if you
can get the machining done expeditiously.
	Be careful of many of the hotrodder's tricks as they tend to increase
power at the upper end while robbing it from the lower end.  You could make
a wonderful street rover while ruining it for serious offroading.  
	Engine swaps are the other way to go but aren't advised unless you are a
McGyver type who can weld, fabricate, and otherwise improvise.  Going from
a 3 main engine to a 5 main has kept mine off the road for a month with
unforeseen problems.  Can imagine what an entirely foreign engine would
entail in necessary creative efforts.  Of course having a parts supplier
closer than 2,000 miles away would have facilitated matters.
	Good luck in your efforts and keep us informed of the results, if you 
take
the plunge.  Personally, if it was my one and only means of transportation,
I'd just change the distributor and stop there if it improves performance.
Then I'd go searching for a cheap re buildable lump and do all the above at
my leisure and swap it in when the current engine gives up the ghost in
another 10-100,000 miles on down the road.

Aloha Peter

Here is the current situation:
>-even compression, but lower than others (using same gauge) about 125 all
>around with <5 variation between any two.
>-uses some oil (quart/500 miles at worst) but no blue smoke, even on startup
>-valves replaced ~4-5 years ago by PO, non-hardened
>-decent power, but it sounds like it could be much better from what others
>have told me. 88" SW w/ about 300 lbs of gear. I can hit 60 or 65 on the
>flats (16" wheels, OD), but the slightest incline forces a drop to 4th and
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>-joseph and sidney (drooling at the thought of more new bits)
>missoula, mt

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:24:17 -0500
Subject: LPG

In the late 70's / early 80's I converted my 88 to LPG. I tried all kinds of
things to make it more economical than the petrol but was unsuccesful at the
UK prices of the time.  I found myself driving out of the way to get LPG,
which added on the miles for no benefit. An exhaust gas analyzer is an
essential tool for tuning the regulator.  My friend had a RR with LPG and he
found genuine economies from it, it used less LPg than my 88 !
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:48:29 -0500
Subject: A question of time

 Jim. I would expect your 66  ser 2a to have the timing marks on the
flywheel, not on the front  pulley, 
Just behind the fuel pump, on the flwheel housing there should be a steel
plate which can be swivelled out of the way to reveal the flywheel. The
marks on the pulley could be from some PO trying to make the job simpler and
screwing it up. Alternatively someone has been changing the parts.  Not sure
of the year when they switched, I guess in the later sixties but anyway  the
parts list shows the rear timing marks up to engine suffix J.  whenever that
was. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:54:34 -0500
Subject: Speed

The Land Rover literature gives engine speed in top gear per thousand revs
as 15 for 6,50 tyres and 16.5 for 7.50 tyres ( 16" ) so 4000 rpm on 6.50
tyres is equal to  60 mph and on 7.50 tyres is 66 mph ( with some variation
due to tyre wear, type and pressure ) 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:58:24 +0100
Subject: what about oil pumps (SIII 2.25 d)

I have checked, changed and rebuilt almost every part of my 2.25
diesels, except the oil pumps - can't say I've ever made them see the
light of day (except for piston changes).

My 88" "often" shows a green oil light when the oil is new, viscous
enough and full - usually when braking or cornering or stopping at
junctions. Could this be oil pump problems? Or should I just stop
writing about it in case oil pump faults, like everything else on a
rover are in some way "verbally activated" - just think of the
thermostat and it blows, just consider the possibility of the generator
not working and it stops working - you know...)

What does rebuilding/refurbishing the oil pumnp involve - in parts, in
time, and it "while you're down there, you might just as well....s"?

Or is it a case of "If it works, don't fix it"?

Adrian Redmond

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:02:55 -0500
Subject: Thermostat housings

Mitch,   the cylinder head on the series 2 is different to the 2A in the
area of the thermostat, The 2 has a much deeper casting at the front and
different thermostat housing  castings the original thermostats  were a
couple of inches or so in overall length, most of which went into the head.
I imagine this is why you are having problems finding a suitable thermostat.
You may find that using the thermostat housings off a 2A may permit the use
of the later thermostat.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:22:05 EST
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

In a message dated 12/11/98 7:16:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

<< s there anyone there? I have just resubscribed after two months absence
 - but to what? I don't see my postings appearing on the list - but I see
 lots of others! Are we (am I) caught in a time warp of parallel lists,
 separated by some great giga-divide acroiss which the major will not let
 me pass? >>
Adrian,
I would venture to wager that you inadvertently loaded the Scottish version
"Windaes95" onto you machine in an Alaskan  trip induced frenzy.  You would
need to attempt to reload The Swedish version "Meatballs95" and stop the
reload immediately  on recieving an error message.  Upon reboot you will
require the password "free wheeling hubs" and entry to the virtual pub will be
assured.  Bloody knuckles can be had for the asking, they were while you were
gone anyway.

Welcome back, have a beer.

Zack Arbios

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From: Robert McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:29:05 -0500
Subject: mitch, 2 ltr bearings

i have been looking in my garage all day for 2ltr. parts. amazing enough, i
found them. I'm not quite sure what you need but i have the following in my
hands, all of which are for a 2 ltr. diesel. a rebuilt injection pump; a
complete set of new rod bearings, AE GS887 1LC KY STD T/8; a complete set
of main bearings, 276857 FP G ROVER; new pistons and liners and o-rings,
AE KIT SET SA 933. i am in va. i also found several other items i've been
looking for for months, military manuals to ash trays, looks like its time
to have a swap meet

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:31:36 EST
Subject: Re: what about oil pumps (SIII 2.25 d)

In a message dated 12/12/98 5:00:38 PM Eastern Standard Time,
channel6@post2.tele.dk writes:

> What does rebuilding/refurbishing the oil pumnp involve - in parts, in
>  time, and it "while you're down there, you might just as well....s"?

Hi Adrian, 

Welcome back!  Oil pump is a relatively easy rebuild..albeit dirty.  Drop the
sump, undo a couple of bolts and slip it out. (with driveshaft).  Rebuild
entails replacing the steel and aluminum gears and the pressure valve spring
and ball.  Some would say to regrind the ball seat, but in my case the old
ball looked very good so I didn't (I have an aversion to grinding compound for
internal components unless necessary).  All together it was a fairly pleasant
afternoon repair.

Nate

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 18:45:28 -0400
Subject: Re: Series seat alternatives in US?

Check out some of the smaller Nissans or the truck with buckets. I saw one the
other day that looked like if would workbut I'm not up on their models
John and Muddy

Jeff Goldman wrote:

>   Just wondering what people can tell me about a highback seat alternative
> for the Series Rovers in the US? While I know Defender seats make good
> replacements, they are expensive. As are seats from a Jaguar XJS, but they
> look like a great candidate. Shipping over a new set from the UK is also
> expensive. I've tried seats from a Volvo 240, and they are comfortable but
> too deep in the seat back, so clearance to the wheel and legroom go down
> quite a bit.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> Boston, MA
> http://www.gis.net/~roverboy

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 21:56:48 -0500
Subject: hrrrumph !

the Grinch really hates reading all the 'test' messages from the Who's in
Whoville, almost as much as he hates Who rare roast beast...

grinch says that if the test messages don't stop, the subscriptions will.

	IT STILL IS policy test messages get you dropped from the list.

	so STOP IT before you get punted.
-B

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:00:36 -0700
Subject: Re: best method to restore/improve 2.25

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
 If you have the 7-1 head,
;> milling it to 8-1 spec's will improve the performance somewhat, you
can try
;> for a higher compression ratio than that but at your own risk. 

It may be possible to get a bit more compression by having the block
decked. Most pistons don't come to the top of the block at TDC. By
milling the block, you can actually have the pistons protrude slightly
above the block, but still below the surface of the head gasket. I'm not
sure how much extra compression you could get out because I don't know
all the dimensions of a Rover engine , but you could ask a machine shop
if it would be worth doing. And while I can't find my book to confirm
it, I seem to remember that the smaller the area between the piston and
the flat part of the combustion chamber/head, also known as the squish
area, the less likely you are to have detonation. This is due to the
fact that the fuel/air is forced out of this area into the combustion
chamber at a higher velocity and promotes better swirl of the mixture. 

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:47:35
Subject: Re: what about oil pumps (SIII 2.25 d)

Adrian:

	I hope that is normal for rovers as mine have done this with three
different engines when the oil gets a little low.  By a little low that is
a quart in a system which takes six quarts.  Only does it when nose down or
stopping not when accelerating (if you can call increased forward speed
acceleration) or climbing.  Must have something to do with oil rushing to
forward part of pan and leaving the pump high and dry momentarily.  Doubt
that it hurts anything as I haven't had an oil related problem with any of
my engines, I just like to throw a new engine in my every few years.  
	Rebuilding the pump involves replacing the gears (which actually do the
pumping) with new ones and being sure the housing has not worn beyond
specs.  If it has you get to put in a new pump.  Probably could be rebuilt
without pulling the pump though my memory is a little hazy on the procedure
as its been a number of years since I rebuilt the last one.  Pulling the
pump out, once the pan is off is not that big a deal in any case.  Any time
you rebuild an engine, the pump should be rebuilt or replaced.
	If your oil pressure is above 40 psi your pump is probably doing just 
fine.

Aloha Peter

At 10:58 PM 12/12/98 +0100, you wrote:
>I have checked, changed and rebuilt almost every part of my 2.25
>diesels, except the oil pumps - can't say I've ever made them see the
>light of day (except for piston changes).
>My 88" "often" shows a green oil light when the oil is new, viscous
>enough and full - usually when braking or cornering or stopping at
>junctions. Could this be oil pump problems? Or should I just stop

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>Or is it a case of "If it works, don't fix it"?
>Adrian Redmond

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From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:43:57 -0800
Subject: New addition to the fleet

Hey Gang,

Well I'm going to have to subscribe to the coiler list, I added a 1990 
Range-Rover County to the fleet today.  Got it for $7,600 from some guy who was 
in 
desperate need ( heading to jail next week ).  The body is straight and the 
engine seemed to run good but the interior is a filthy.  I've got it at the 
dealership to have it checked out.  Then I will have the inside detailed and a 
new headliner fitted before I bring it home to my SO.  It will be hers when I 
get a new work truck in about 6 months.

The purchase of this vehicle must go down as the most tense Rover purchase in 
North America if not the world.  The chap I bought it from is located in the 
rough ( I mean rough ) part of NE Portland.  He had it listed for $9,500 ( it 
has 91,000 mile on the odometer ) in the Oregonian.  I looked at it on Thursday 
and made arrangements to take it to the dealer on Friday.  The dealer informed 
me Friday afternoon that they were not going to be able to get to it.  Since 
this guy was going on an all expense paid trip, I decided to offer him a figure 
in cold hard cash.  He took it.  I then high tailed it to the DMV to transfer 
the title.  To my disbelief, the title needed one more signature ( I had 
verified the fact the Rangie was not stolen with my local police office ).  I 
then 
rushed back to the seller who of coarse had spent a portion of the money.  To 
make a long story short, I ended up driving this guy all over town Friday night 
looking for his not to be found uncle and all day to day waiting in his house ( 
hoping to not become a crime statistic as shady characters came an went ) for 
the uncle to arrive.  Luckily he did and I now have clear title the Rover.

I now need to come up with a fitting name.  'Dog Sled' come to mind because the 
main selling point to the SO was that she can now take our 2 large dogs 
anywhere she goes but then it might be cool to find a name based on the 
troubles to get the damn thing.  Your suggestions are welcome.

John Putnam
Forest Grove, OR
'70 SIIa SWB 'Rhino'
Yet unnamed 90' RR County

P.S.

First time I've been in an actual LR dealers shop.  Pretty damn sheik.

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:08:44 +1100
Subject: brilliant, charming young lady 

     Cole Stage, Hefelump herdsman wrote:
>FWIW, I am getting married this saturday eve to a tall, beautiful, 
>brilliant, charming young lady 

Ahh, that's what I did wrong.  I didn't buy a Landie

Ron

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 03:55:33 EST
Subject: Re: Brake Drag from the lack there of...

In a message dated 98-12-12 15:02:30 EST, you write:

<< Who could tell.  Hell, both front brake assemblies were all greased up from
 somewhere.  I mean a mess.  There is no way if I could determine if there
 was a fluid leak from these cylinders.  Needless to say I was not pleased to
 find dinosaur remnants liberally smeared into my brake assemblies.  I had
 repacked the bearings this summer and took great care in oil seal
 replacement.  My SPH are holding oil so I am not sure of the source of this
 mess.  What should my next step be to remedy the case of the greasy front
 brakes?
 
 Back brakes had some mess too but not near as bad.  Right rear was uniquely
 messy and it may be the culprit for the source of the missing brake fluid.
 Can't be sure whether it is grease or brake fluid for sure.
 >>

Well...greasy brakes don't work as fast, but they should still work, once most
of the grease is burnt off of the shoes. As it burns off, you could get "that
'ol spongy feeling...", and this in turn, could explain why you're missing
some fluid - cookoff ( kinda like ammunition cookoff, but not quite as
dramatic):ie., the wheel cylinders heat up, and said heat is transfered to the
fluid. That's why racing/high performance cars normally use a different type
of brake fluid from that found in the local Chief Auto Parts.

The rear wheel cylinder you mentioned could also be the culprit: you said you
rebuilt/replaced everything? What type of rubber was used in the seal kits?
Were they Lockheed/Girling kits, or some other brand? I ask, because you could
be using the incorrect type of fluid for the seals that you have (regardless
of what you're used to buying), and if may bot be happy with the components in
the truck.

Another factor could be how you're bleeding the brakes...some Brit cars I've
had, I've had to open a bleed screw, pump the pedal once, tighten up the bleed
screw, then release the pedal, and continue till I was done - whilst on other
cars, I got away with cracking a bleed screw open, and pumping the pedal until
I got a constant stream (no pun intendid) of fluid, and I was done. Other cars
I've had to turn the shoe tensioners all the way in before bleeding the
brakes, others I've had to adjust them before bleeding! Just like some cars
you can use an EZBleed, and others you'll just blow the new seals with it!

Charles

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 04:01:42 EST
Subject: Money saving tip

A pal of mine drives a firms van which uses a pint of oil every 1000 miles
(thats every week for him). His money saving tip is to dutyfully buy a pint a
week (charged to the firms fuel account) for the van. Save it up, then change
the oil in the Range Rover (engine then gearbox then engine then transferbox
in rotation) and the oil that comes out he uses to top up the van.
His only worry is that when the firm changes the van next year will the new
one need as much oil!

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 10:03:00 +0100
Subject: Re: yr tests

It's nice to get back to the pub again - I see many of the same old
faces, the raucous jokes being told up at the bar by the popcorn machine
sound like they did two months ago, someone seems to have put a log or
two on the fire, and as usual the new faces seem to have been welcomed
into the fold. 

The juke box seems to be playing the same old songs (there's a thread
for us - "what records are on the juke box in our pub" - I guess "House
of the Rising Sun" and "Whiter shade of pale" must be obligatory on any
pub juke box - or at least that was the case when I left blighty 15
years ago...?)

And what are all those cars parked outside? Don't they look a bit like
j**ps? And whose is the half-timbered saloon without a tax disc? Is that
yours Frank?

The great thing about travelling is coming home!

Have a beer (or a Guisnes/Guinses/Ginnis) on me folks!

Adrian Redmond

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 04:05:21 EST
Subject: ...speaking of brake drag...U-Haul!

Rented a "car transporter" from U-Haul today...I finally deliverd the sold-
two-months-ago 1959 88" that I had, to it's ultimate receiver, and in turn,
picked up an Austin A-90 drophead, and took it from Venice, Ca., to Arcadia,
Ca. with my Range Rover.

Well...as my usual lack of good luck with U-Haul goes, it turns out that the
brakes on the "transporter" were dragging, causing my poor Rangie to cook its
engine!

Took me 6 hours to complete what's usually a 40 minute drive, and I STILL have
the trailer! I called their emergency number, they came out to look at it, and
advised me that they cannot repair brakes in the field (one of the brake lines
was crushed in a place where it could only get damaged if it were in an
accident - the damage was rusty, so there's no fear of my getting blamed for
it), and so I had a friend follow me home, in case the Rangie started to cook
again - it was an uneventful trip, except for the 3-car pileup on the I-105
westbound - the truck got hot, but didn't overheat.

It's so much fun, driving 2-3 miles (sometimes 4), stopping to let the temp go
down, topping the radiator, and doing it again and again and again!

My last encounter with U-Haul has yet to be resolved either: when I picked up
my TR-3 in September, they failed to lock down the trailer to my hitch, and I
didn't notice it until we got the car on the trailer - when I saw the end of
the trailer sitting on my rear bumper! (they're supposed to buy a  new bumper
for me)

Watch out for those bastards!

Charles

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 10:06:43 +0100
Subject: Re: hrrrumph !

Sorry Bill, 

just trying to jump start the grinch into life again - it seems to have
worked.

Nice to have R5S8 again

Adrian Redmond
(who's in Whoville #15262733883838881A)

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