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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 06:55:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Stalling

Mine was doing the exact same thing not long ago. Check the carburettor bowl,
filter and fuel-pump bowl for rust and debris.

Odds are you sucked a load of crap off the bottom of the tank when you let your
fuel get low and it's plugged something in the fuel path.

                    ajr

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:34:37 +1100
Subject: LR passengers...

Alain wrote re: LR passengers...
> French, why french  ? Don't you have females in your country ?
>Alain you can't be *totally* ignorant of the worldwide
>(mis?)conception that French women have a certain je ne sais quoi
>that places them above all others in the desire-ability stakes...?

Odd, I always thought it was the Swedish.  That's where I went wrong, I
thought I got a Swede where, in fact, I married a Swiss.  Totally
different!

Ron

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 07:40:34 -0500
Subject: Re: LR passengers...

I married a Swiss.  Totally
different!

Ron

So, have you been organized and regimented to death yet? 8*)

                    aj"I prefer chaotic, myself..."r

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:37:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: LR passengers...

> French, why french  ? Don't you have females in your country ?
>Alain you can't be *totally* ignorant of the worldwide
>(mis?)conception that French women have a certain je ne sais quoi
>that places them above all others in the desire-ability stakes...?

Alain asks "Why french?"

What can I say Alain - I have this...  Certain...  Thing...
for members of the opposite sex.
Forigners, and in particular French ladies.
I don't know - call me wierd or something...

And...  "Don't you have females in your country?"
Actually Alain - There are virtually no females in the US.
All those females you see in our wonderfull Hollywood productions;
They are either Canadians, or cardboard profiles painted to look like
Canadian women - or so I've been told.

Hey Alain, when am I getting your 88 & two French females for front seat
follies?!
It's been like a week since you said you'd ship!
Or did I misunderstand something?!

Peter - "patiently" waiting delivery - Kaskan   : )

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:13:10 +0100
Subject: Is there anybody out there?

Is there anyone there? I have just resubscribed after two months absence
- but to what? I don't see my postings appearing on the list - but I see
lots of others! Are we (am I) caught in a time warp of parallel lists,
separated by some great giga-divide acroiss which the major will not let
me pass?

If someone doesn't see my postings soon, I will be forced to sell my
Rover, cos what's a Landy without a shoulder to cry on.

Yours Lucasly,

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: "Walker" <JW-PK@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:18:54 -0700
Subject: Land Rover workshop manuals For Sale

Hello,

I have original Rover factory Series II and IIA workshop manuals (Part One
and Two), Part No. 606407 and 606408, plus the Haynes Land Rover Series II,
IIA and III manual.  Cover 2 1/4L petrol and diesel and 2.6L petrol. 
Complete, some greasy fingerprints but overall good shape.  No longer have
the Rovers.  I paid US $100 just for the Rover manuals; will sell all three
for US $100 or best offer (plus postage outside of U.S.) or best offer.  
Solex carburetion manual also included.

Please reply direct as I am not on the list.

Thanks for your help.

Best regards,
John Walker
<jw-pk@worldnet.att.net>
Boulder, Colorado USA

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:21:45 +0000
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

 cos what's a Landy without a shoulder to cry on.

Weep no more Adrian.You've crossed the divide.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:26:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Distributor

Bill, the limey in exile, warns:

*** 
>Yank your distributor out.  Make a temporary light etch mark between
the housing and the gear on the bottom of it.  Using "a suitable drift"
push the pin holding the gear out.  Rotate *that* gear 180 degs and
reinstall the pin.  Mover yer wires, reinstall, and time the baby.
 Whoa, not so fast, the fixing hole is drilled off center ! so it is a bit
more complicated than that ! Bill Leacock ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 
***

I beg to differ.  No I don't.  I differ.

I've done this folks, and with no ill effects after
about 20,000 miles.

And it ain't complicated....

The hole (and slot) that the distributor "dog" (above
referred to as "gear") sits in is indeed off center.
The distributor can only go in one way.  BUT you CAN
rotate the dog itself 180 degrees on the distributor's
shaft, at least with an older style Lucas distributor
(not sure about a Ducelllier), by pushing out the pin
that holds the dog onto the distributor, rotating the
dog, and putting the pin back in.  Simple.  This pin is
set (again, at least in older distributors) dead center
in the shaft.  (And someone suggested to me that it's
tapered but I don't think so...if it were, it'd go in
easily in one direction, and not at all in the opposite...
it'd also tend to wing it's way out upon rapidly spinning
about.)

I wouldn't be telling you guys 'n gals this if I hadn't
done it myself and if it didn't work out just fine.
Nige was once "180 out" (#1 pointing away from #1) and
now he's "180 in" (#1 right at #1).  Think about it - IF
it didn't work, the distributor wouldn't go in correctly
and Nige wouldn't run...

Maybe, just maybe, the "newer" style distriubtors are different.
Nige is a SII - I'd be interested to know whether those of 
you with SIIa's (early, mid, late) and SIIIs can do this
trick.

Interestingly, the manuals (all of them) are extremely 
vague when it comes to timing instructions...NOwhere do
they state which points cam lobe (or distributor "post")
is designated as #1.  Perhaps for good reason - perhaps
because a) you can time to #1 or #4 by their instructions
anyhow, and b) maybe there wasn't a whole lot of 
consistency WRT how the distributor dog mated up *to the
distributor shaft*, or at least a little "variablity in 
the consistency" if there was.

[I smell a conspiracy to cover up the mistakes made by
that bloke Ian, on the assembly line.  Ian worked installing
the drive dogs on distributors.  Ian could barely tell
right from left, and clockwise from counterclockwise, and
worse still he didn't realize that clockwise when viewed
from one direction is counterclockwise when viewed from the
other.  Ian also didn't really care much about his job - HE
was never going to meet and dine with Maurice Wilks no matter
how good a job he did.  And when Ian left for the pub each
night all he could care about was when his next paycheck 
was going to arrive to support his drinking habit.  Ian
hated to follow directions and he screwed up.  Alot.  Ian's boss, 
Charles, who was an expert negotiator (and who's brother,
James, was in charge of writing the manuals) had to cover
his ass, or get fired.  Charles carefully crafted the language
in the timing instructions for James, such that Ian's mistakes could be
deceptively "corrected".  Only Ian, Charles, and James knew of this,
and they were all sworn to secrecy.  Today, both Charles and
James live on their private yachts in the Mediteranian.  Ian 
is still in his favorite pub, stinkin' drunk.]

Equally interesting is the fact that there ARE very specific
instructions when it comes to the distributor DRIVE gear
(the female end of the dog that's held in with the grub
screw).  This female end has an off center hole in a slot
(no jokes).  There is a "wide" side and a "narrow" side.
At #1 TDC compression stroke, the narrow side is supposed
to face the right side of the rig and the slot should
be pointing at #1.  This would be a good way for people 
to track down the source of their "180 out" woes...did
some PO put the drive dog in backwards?  Did a PO manage
to rotate the distributor drive gear relative to the
crank (or 360 crank rotation while distributor drive held
steady) when doing a timing chain replacement?  If the female
drive "dog" is backwards, maybe so; if not, then the
distributor's male drive dog is "180 out"...how it happened
is anybody's guess.  I blame Ian.

r"I'm gonna patent this method"d/nige

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:30:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

Why is it, when you said "Is therew anybody out there..." all I could think of
was Pink Floyd? 8*)

Welcome back!

               ajr

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:41:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

>Why is it, when you said "Is therew anybody out there..." all I could think of
>was Pink Floyd? 8*)

RELAX...   Relax...   relax...
(We're out here Adrian)
It's just a little pin prick...
bringggg

Hi Adrian - Welcome back

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:50:42 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Bill Rice's brake woes

Bill writes:

***
questions:  1) when I clamp rear brake line, pedal's firm.
Squishiness
isn't real problem, even when driving w/ no clamps--main prob. is that
pedal won't pump up at all, which un-nerves me, even though I've not
"bottomed out" the pedal in weeks of driving around. 
***

sounds to me like you've got a bad adjuster then.  Can you turn
the wheels by hand when the rear's jacked up and all the adjusters
are tightened up?  Could also be really worn shoes and/or drums.

***
2) why do people
always say bleed nearest to farthest; LF, RF . . .?  My LF is way farther
(in linear brake line feet) from the master than my RF is. Are my SIIA
lines routed differently (over engine to 5 way jct, then under engine and
up to LF wheel cylinder) than other folks' SIIAs?
***

If I said LF, RF, it should have been RF,LF,RR,LR.  Yes, closest
to furthest in terms of line length.  The way I figure it, this 
"chases" the old fluid (and air) out the shortest lines first, and
that way there's no contamination of the others as you go (which
could be the case if you did it the other way around).

best of luck,
rd/nige

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 07:57:21 -0800
Subject: bucking rover

>From: Garrick Brett Olsen 
>My new as of 5 wk ago 1961 SWB was on the way to the storage place 
>one cold (20F) morning.  After starting fine and running for about 3 
>miles, it was sputtering and bucking at full throttle.  Once I 
>backed off, the motor smoothed out. 

Don't forget to replace the inline filter as this is a symptom of a clogged
one.

Bob B

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:59:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor

While you story is essentially true you omitted one important detail. James
hated his name and insisted on Jimmy. He always threaten anyone who called him
James saying he would twist their bloody distributor shaft by 180 degrees. So
if you don't want to get shafted call him Jimmy.
John and Muddy

"Russell G. Dushin" wrote:

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:13:39 -0500
Subject: Intake valves

Following the thread about the series of burned #4 intake valves...I didn't
think that was possible.  Exhaust, sure, but intake?  How can that occur?
Won't the influx of air and fuel droplets cool it?  Inquiring minds want to
know.  60,000 mile and a decade after an engine rebuild, just did a
compression test.  175, 170, 175, 90#....ratz.  Looks like #4 will need
some attention in the near future.  Didn't use stellite way back when, as
leaded looked like it was going to be around a while (like only 6 mo. after
the rebuild).  But the Ampco vapor lubricator seems to have been doing its
job quite nicely.  Is there any way to differentiate between intake and
exahust valve sealing *without* taking the head off? 

WRT the 2.25 "working hard" to run at 70 mph, one of the best things you
can do is install a vacuum guage.  If you have the Series III with the
servo-assist brakes, there's a convenient port on the intake manifold that
used to go to the poppet valve on the original Zenith 36IVE carbs, done
away with on the 36IV model.  I've found that rolling down the superslab at
a goodly pace, an almost imperceptable movement of the right foot can make
a BIG difference in the vacuum guage.  In 4th over, my 2.25 "settles in" -
that is, seems most "comfortable" - at about 57 mph, and with the
uncorrected 15" speedo, that's about 62 mph actual.  Pay attention to the
guage and your engine will live *much* longer.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:17:59 +0100
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

Yes Adrian,

                    we are,

hush now, hush................ 

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:38:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Distributor

Russell, while you story is essentially true and Ian was not the tightest
shackle on the spring, you missed one important detail. James hated his name,
preferring Jimmy. In fact he would get very angry and threaten to" twist yer
bloody shaft" if you got it wrong. So when Jimmy was in a bad mood a lot of
shafts got inserted 180 degrees out.
If you should happen to meet James call him Jimmy or you will get shafted.
John and Muddy

"Russell G. Dushin" wrote:

> Bill, the limey in exile, warns:
> ***
> >Yank your distributor out.  Make a temporary light etch mark between
> the housing and the gear on the bottom of it.  Using "a suitable drift"
> push the pin holding the gear out.  Rotate *that* gear 180 degs and
> reinstall the pin.  Mover yer wires, reinstall, and time the baby.
>  Whoa, not so fast, the fixing hole is drilled off center ! so it is a bit
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 96 lines)]
> is anybody's guess.  I blame Ian.
> r"I'm gonna patent this method"d/nige

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:44:53 -0400
Subject: Re: Intake valves

"A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" wrote:

> Following the thread about the series of burned #4 intake valves...I didn't
> think that was possible.  Exhaust, sure, but intake?  How can that occur?
> Won't the influx of air and fuel droplets cool it?  Inquiring minds want to
> know.  60,000 mile and a decade after an engine rebuild, just did a
> compression test.  175, 170, 175, 90#....ratz.  Looks like #4 will need
> some attention in the near future.  Didn't use stellite way back when, as
> leaded looked like it was going to be around a while (like only 6 mo. after
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
>   |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
>   |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |

A cylinder leakdown tester will tell you just what is leaking as you will be
able to hear where it is. Eg : if an intake valve is leaking you will hear the
air escaping into the intake manifold .
John and Muddy

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:50:07 -0500
Subject: RE: Intake valves

>  Is there any way to differentiate between intake and
exahust valve sealing *without* taking the head off? 

Yes.  Perform a "leak down test".  After a sufficient amount of air is
injected into the cylinder (at TDC so both valves are closed), listen
carefully for the sound of air escaping, at the exhaust (exhaust valve
leaking) and at the carb (intake valve leaking).

Take an old spark plug and cut it in 2; clamp a suitable size hose to the
threaded half after hollowing it out so air can pass; place blow gun into
hose and fill cylinder with air. (or devise your own method, but get some
air into the cylinder).  Or buy some expensive adapters to do the job
professionally, but what fun would spending money for this be?  Eh?

John Tackley
Richmond, VA

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From: "Mark Talbot" <rangerover@top.monad.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:11:56 -0500
Subject: New Years day off road in NH

Last year a group of us brought in the New Year by going off-road. Turned
out to be the coldest day of the year. And there was snow everywhere !

So I have been asked to do it again.  OK I will

New Years Day

Time 9:30am  Leave 10am

Meet at the Dunkin Donuts on Route 12 South in Swanzey !!! NOT THE ONE IN
KEENE !!!

Where - South West NH. Power lines and green lanes in Troy / Richmond. May
take in Carnage hill for those that want to try it.

Bring : Lunch, Warm clothes,  it could get cold ...although the way the
weather has been going, bring shorts !!!

Any questions... e-mail me or call me 603-357-2005

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:04:40 -0700
Subject: A question of time

I have a 1966 IIA, and when I went to time it recently, I became
confused. My timing pointer has only one point. My pully has three
marks. One mark is only on the pointer side.(I think this is the TDC
mark) The other two are on both sides of the pully and are about 10 and
12 degrees away from the first mark. Are these other two marks from some
PO? I am timint off the 1st mark, so hopefully this is the right one.
Any insights appreciated.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser still waiting on the price of stronger axles

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From: smitty1@altavista.net
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:20:48 -0500 (EST)
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

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From: Benjamin Smith <bens@psasolar.colltech.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:21:08 -0600
Subject: Re: Mighty Joe Young!

British Bulldog posted:

> Wow!  Just saw a preview last night for the new Disney flick "Mighty Joe
> Young."  They showed no less than SIX Land Rovers in the preview!  Three
> 109s, two 88s and a IIB or a 101 way in the background.  This is gonna
> be quite a movie for us Rover-geeks with no lives!

	Those should be 101s.  British Pacific imported two 101s for Disney
for that movie.  Unfortunately, if I recall correctly, Disney exported
them out of the US when the film was completed.  (Though there were a bunch of
us that wanted to buy them).

Ben
--
Benjamin Smith                   "If I were running such a contest, I would
Collective Technologies          specifically eliminate any entries from Ben 
    (a pencom company)           involving driving the [Land] Rover anywhere. 
Land-  : '72 Series III 88"      He'd drive it up the Amazon Basin for a half
 -Rover: '94 Discovery 5-Spd     can of Jolt and a stale cookie." --K. Archie

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:27:44 -0700
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

At 04:13 PM 11/12/98 +0100, Adrian Redmond, wrote
>Is there anyone there? I have just resubscribed after two months absence

Nice to see you back.  How was Alaska?  See any interesting LR's

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Rick Grant Associates.  Calgary, Canada
Media and Public Affairs

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:41:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Intake valve problem

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:14:40 -0700

>>Marin Faure wrote:
>>The redline of the engine is 4,250 rpm.  To get 70 mph out of it, even
>with an overdrive, you're going to be pretty darn close to the redline, maybe
4,000 rpm or so.

>Nah, at 70 with 7.5x16's and OD (which he surely has if he's going 70!),
we're talking just a bit over 3000 RPMS or about 70% into the rev range.
This shouldn't be a problem. Even with 30x9.5R15's, he'd only be turning
3300 RPM or so.

That may be.  I had my speed checked with a radar gun once and at 3,000 rpm in 
4th gear (overdrive disengaged) I was going exactly 42 mph.  This was with 
15-inch wheels, but with Norseman tires which were a fair amount taller than 
the Goodyears that Land Rover fitted as original equipment.  The Fairey 
overdirve 
increases the driveline rpm by 23 percent when it's engaged.  So if I had 
engaged the overdrive during this "test" I would have increased my road speed 
by 9.66 
mph, for a total speed of 51.66 mph.  I suppose it's possible that having 
16-inch wheels and the appropriate tires could boost the speed again by almost 
20 
mph, but that's going to be asking that engine to work pretty hard.

Back in the early 1980s I needed to replace the tires on my Series III, and so 
went to the local Norseman dealer.  He didn't have the tire I normally ran, but 
he did have the next size (height) up.  I figured it wouldn't make that much 
difference, so I had them installed.  When I drove home, I noticed that the 
vehicle needed a lot more throttle to go up the freeway grades I drove every 
day.  That plus the fact that I could no longer fit the vehicle under the open 
garage door where I was staying at the time prompted me to go back to the 
dealer and have him order the Norsemans I was used to using.  So while going to 
a 
larger wheel/tire combination will increase road speed or reduce rpm for a 
given speed, I can attest to the extra work it demands of the engine, which 
will 
increase heat.

>>Regardless, you're
>asking an agricultural engine designed as a slow-revving diesel in the late
>'50s to do the work of a modern, lightweight, high-revving engine of
>today.  (I >assume you are aware that the petrol 2.25 was derived from the
>2.25 diesel, which
>actually came first.)

>An excellent point, although the 2.25 petrol actually came first (1958,
1962 for the 2.25 diesel), designed around the 2.0 diesel.

I'll have to re-read my "Workhorse of the World" book.  I was unaware, or have 
forgotten, that the first diesel was a 2.0.  All I recall is that the petrol 
engine was derived from Rover's diesel, as opposed to the other way around as 
many manufacturers have done in more recent years.  This is why the petrol 
engine 
is so robust physically.

>>Actually, I'm amazed you're getting as much as two years out of your
>valves if that's the way you're using the vehicle.  The Series Land Rovers 
were all
>designed during a time of relatively low road speeds; continuous fast driving
>on motorways or freeways was not part of the design criteria.  A cruising
>speed of 45-50 mph was considered just fine by the Land Rover (and Jeep, too, 
back
>then) engineers.

>Makes me a bit worried since I'll be driving at (relatively) high speeds
for about 5000-6000 miles per year in Sidney.

If you're going to be running close to 4,000 rpm for long periods of time, I 
would not be surprised if you start having problems, particularly with the 
valves.

>>But I rarely take the engine over 3,000 rpm, and then only for short
>bursts of  acceleration when merging into traffic and so on. If your job
>requires you to cover >100+ miles each day, and you have to travel at 70
>mph or more to maintain a schedule, >I'd say you're driving the wrong kind
>of vehicle.

>In the S**B circles I used to run in, it was often said that -not-
consistently running the engine up towards the redline could be harmful for
its health.

Based on my experience with my own vehicles, and the airplanes I fly, I don't 
think this is true.  I think people like to THINK it's true because it 
justifies 
their desire to run their engines hard, but I cannot think of any real reason 
why it should be.  As soon as you start an engine, any engine, it is destroying 
itself.  Friction, heat, and pressure, which contributes to the first two 
items, wear parts down.  The more friction and heat you have, the faster the 
parts 
will wear down.  People say that running an engine conservatively causes carbon 
deposits to build up on valves and so on.  This may be true to some degree, but 
I suspect only if the engine is run extremely conservatively.  If the engine is 
run in its normal temperature range, and if everything is adjusted correctly 
(fuel grade, mixture, spark, valves, timing, emission system if there is one, 
and so forth) carbon shouldn't be a problem.  I had practically no carbon 
deposits in my Series III engine when we took it!
 apart at about 125K miles to fix a burned exhaust valve.  The tops of all four 
pistons were clean, as were the valves.  This was after about ten years of 
running at 3,000 rpm or less, with the vehicle used as a daily driver.

The Pratt & Whitney radial engines I fly behind show a marked difference in 
wear when they are torn down for overhaul depending on how hard they have been 
run 
during the past 1600 hours.  Just backing off the cruise manifold pressure a 
couple of inches and reducing propeller speed by 50 rpm in cruise reduces the 
wear 
on some components dramatically.  Granted, these are air-cooled engines with 
relatively lighter components than you'd find in an automotive engine, but the 
basic principal remains the same- the harder an engine has to work, the sooner 
it will wear out.

The only time running an engine flat out is a valid thing to do is during 
break-in, and even there the philosophy has changed.  Now, all the manuals I'm 
aware 
of say the most important thing during break-in is to change engine rpm every 
few minutes for the first 500 miles or so.  Don't get on the freeway and sit at 
one rpm for long periods of time.  When I took delivery of my Series III in 
1973, the owner's manual stated that the vehicle should not be taken over 40 or 
45 
mph for I think the first 500 miles.  When I took delivery of our Range Rover 
in 1991, the manual didn't give any speed limitation, but it did stress the 
need 
to keep changing speed during the break-in period.  I frankly don't know WHY 
it's so important to keep changing engine rpm during break-in, except that it's 
got something to do with seating the rings.

>One last note, weren't earlier 2.25's like the one presumably in the suspect 
SII
known to be weaker in the cooling department? Maybe he should be looking
for a later engine out of a IIa.

This could be true.  I don't know enough about the history of the 2.25 engine 
to comment.  I will insert here part of a message I sent to the original 
poster, 
which sums up my feelings about the 2.25 engine I'm familiar with in regards to 
cooling.  I apologize for the length it adds to this already long post, but 
someone might find it interesting or wish to comment.

The 2.25 engine together with the radiator Land Rover chose to put in the 
Series vehicles actually does an excellent job of heat dissipation when driven 
appropriately.  The oil sump holds just about two gallons of oil, which is a 
lot more than is needed purely for lubrication for this capacity engine.  I 
have 
been told that one reason behind the engine's large oil capacity is cooling: 
the more oil there is to pump around the better it conducts heat away from the 
moving parts.  The Series Land Rovers, at least the IIa and III (don't know 
about the II as I've never examined one) have pretty good-size radiators for 
the 
size and power output of the engine.  So assuming the proper coolant (a 50 
percent mix of water and a reputable anti-freeze like Prestone is ideal), the 
engine 
is not at all prone to overheating when driven the way it was designed to be 
driven.

On my own Series III, the only time the temperature needle has ever moved above 
the center of the arc in 25 years of ownership is when an upper radiator hose 
failed on the drive home after work years ago.  The thermostat/radiator/coolant 
passage/oil capacity combination of the 2.25 engine has always struck me as 
being very well designed.  Don't forget, this is a vehicle that is still used 
routinely in extremely hot climates, often with no additional cooling capacity, 
although there were optional oil coolers available from the factory.

The Series' nice balance of heat vs cooling breaks down, however, when the 
engine is run hard.  The components...pistons, valves, bearings, etc.... are 
simply 
not up to the task of doing their jobs under these conditions.  The metallurgy 
used in the engine is old-technology, including the replacement parts you buy 
today, the combustion chamber shape and gas flow patterns are low-tech, and so 
on.  As I mentioned previously, the 2.6 six-cylinder NADA (8:1 compression) 
engine used in the US-spec Series Land Rovers had a horrible reputation for 
burning holes in the pistons in cylinders 5 and 6, back where things would get 
pretty hot.  This occurred when the vehicles were worked hard or driven fast.  
If the 2.6 NADA engine was driven conservatively, I understand it was a 
reasonably reliable engine given the limitations of its design and materials.  
The "normal" 7:1 compression 2.6 does not seem to have had the piston-burning 
problem that the NADA version did.  The point is, the eng!
ines used in Series Land Rovers are simply ancient, old powerplants by today's 
standards no matter how much you rebuild, repair, or modify them.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:52:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Intake valve problem

Marin Faure provides lots more to think about:

Marin said
>The redline of the engine is 4,250 rpm.  To get 70 mph out of it, even
>with an overdrive, you're going to be pretty darn close to the redline, maybe
>4,000 rpm or so.
I replied
>>Nah, at 70 with 7.5x16's and OD (which he surely has if he's going 70!),
>>we're talking just a bit over 3000 RPMS or about 70% into the rev range.
>>This shouldn't be a problem. Even with 30x9.5R15's, he'd only be turning
>>3300 RPM or so.
Marin says
>That may be.  I had my speed checked with a radar gun once and at 3,000
>rpm in
>4th gear (overdrive disengaged) I was going exactly 42 mph.  This was with
>15-inch wheels, but with Norseman tires which were a fair amount taller than
>the Goodyears that Land Rover fitted as original equipment.

Well, I've rechecked my math, and will provide it here for cross
examination by those who aren't Liberal Arts majors like myself (hehe)

If the engine is turning at 3,000 RPM, then the wheels are turning at 3000
RPM/gear reduction between wheels and engine (i.e. main box * x-fer * diff
* OD if fitted). So, here are my numbers for RPM at the roadwheels at 3000
engine RPM given that the final drive is 4.7:1, mainbox 1:1, x-fer 1.148:1,
and OD, if fitted, .782:1...

w/o OD "556 RPM"
w/ OD  "711 RPM"

Now, the diameter of a 7.10 x 15 is about 29", a 235/85R16 is about 31.7",
thus the circumference is 29(pie)" and 31.7(pie)" respectively. Simple
conversion from inches/minute to miles/hour yields the following rounded
figures at 3,000 engine RPM...

15" w/o OD "48 MPH"
16" w/o OD "53 MPH"
15" w/  OD "62 MPH"
16" w/  OD "67 MPH"

Of course, these aren't real world figures, but I can't think of any
variables that would affect them.

>given speed, I can attest to the extra work it demands of the engine, which
>will increase heat.

I think this must be true, although it's not enough to show up on the temp
gauge (at least on my Rover.)

I said
>An excellent point, although the 2.25 petrol actually came first (1958,
>1962 for the 2.25 diesel), designed around the 2.0 diesel.

>>I'll have to re-read my "Workhorse of the World" book.  I was unaware, or
>>have
>>forgotten, that the first diesel was a 2.0.  All I recall is that the petrol
>>engine was derived from Rover's diesel, as opposed to the other way
>>around as
>>many manufacturers have done in more recent years.  This is why the petrol
>>engine is so robust physically.

I didn't mean to refute that the 2.25 petrol was based on the diesel. Just
that it was based on the 2.0 diesel (which had no relation to the 2.0
petrol). The 2.25 diesel came 4 years later, in 1962.

I said
>Makes me a bit worried since I'll be driving at (relatively) high speeds
>for about 5000-6000 miles per year in Sidney.

>>If you're going to be running close to 4,000 rpm for long periods of time, I
>>would not be surprised if you start having problems, particularly with the
>>valves.

Shouldn't be a problem if my above figures are correct. I cruise in Sidney
at 55-60 most of the time on Interstates (which should be <2700 RPM even at
60), though I much prefer 45-50 on backroads when I can. Marin's points
about design of the cooling system, the high-revving myth, and other points
well taken and agreed with.

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:47:40 -0500
Subject: "Pumpkins"

British observers avert Kosovo clash 
"THE mettle of British ceasefire monitors in Kosovo was tested yesterday
as, armed with nothing but their wits and bright orange Land Rovers,
they cajoled a crowd of 1,000 Serbs into abandoning a plan to march into
the Kosovo Liberation Army's central headquarters."

"His contingent of 16 British monitors was bolstered by some colleagues
from the European Union and American Contact Group missions in Kosovo,
and the teams fanned out in the Land Rovers - affectionately known as
"pumpkins" by their drivers - around the column of Serbs, which was
headed by local politicians and an Orthodox clergyman, and flanked by a
provocative Serb police presence."

Full article at:
http://www.the-times.co.uk/news/pages/Times/frontpage.html?1369144
<http://www.the-times.co.uk/news/pages/Times/frontpage.html?1369144> 

Peter Goundry
67 GSIIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90#127 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:48:28 -0500
Subject: re: babe magnets

Dixon asks:

> Yo, Mr. Berg, care to comment on this?

Sure, why not. It's based on a small sample, and it doesn't have a good 
control group since I haven't actually had both vehicles on the road at the 
same time but...

As a Babe Magnet FINSUP is real hit or miss. You get a lot of waves from 
the fairer sex, especially those driving Wranglers, during the summer when 
the (Rover's) top is off. (Actually, I once got an emabarrassed wave from a 
woman in a lower truck whose top was off--I guess she wasn't expecting 
anyone to pull up and be able to see in--but I digress....) Of course some 
of them may *think* they're waving to another jeep. You get (occassional) 
outright approaches at gas stations --"Cool car" etc. The car definitely 
makes a statement of self-suffiency (a joke for those of you who have 
bailed my mechanically-impaired ass out on numerous occasions!) and 
"ruggedness."

The Bimmer definitely gets more sultry (smoldering?) glances at stoplights, 
and way-fewer "I *won't* make eye contact with *him* no matter what--just 
look at what he's driving" situations. And no real waves. However, I'm more 
likely to be able to provoke a smile (in return for one given) while 
driving the BMW. Of course, I have less time in which to do all this--I'm 
away from the light and zooming down the road much quicker. And since my 
BMW ownership and commencement of personal trainer/gym attendance are 
concurrent, it might just be that chicks dig guys with shoulders. ;-)

Anyway quantity/ease of contact/lack of outright rejection goes to the 
Bimmer while quality of contact (and the waterproofness, quality, etc. of 
the women making the contact) goes to FINSUP. I think I will continue to 
pick up "first dates" in the Rover--if they complain then they're home 
before we even order appetizers 'cuz there's no future in it. If she digs 
the Rover then, to quote calypso singer Mighty Sparrow, "Don't let she get 
away, she got a bag of sugar down dere."

Of course it don't matter to me, I only have eyes for one woman anyhow.

RoverOn!

jab

==
 Jeffrey A. Berg   Purple Shark Media         Rowayton, CT
                  jeff@purpleshark.com
                   ==================
	I'm looking for a smart woman in a real short skirt...
				--Jimmy Buffett, Smart Woman
	...and her own complete set of SnapOn tools,
		plus the know-how to use them!
			     --Jeff Berg, Broken Rover Blues

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 14:05:25 -0800
Subject: Burn't No. 4 and Thermostats

 Okay Folks here is another twist.

The Stat housing on the Dinosaur won't accept a skirted stat.  Tried this
once and the B@tch dont fit.  I have suspected that when the beast was
fitted with the very early Kodiak, a unique/different housing was fitted.
This is a 1959 Series II and the housing is different that others I've seen.
Except it is the same as the housing on my spare engine which came from
another 59 SII with a Kodiak.  So I go two of the damm things, and from what
I've read this is a contributor to my problems.  Of course what Marin said
is also part of it.  So now I have resigned to the fact that my Peugeot 405
MI16 will be the daily driver, and the Dinosaur will be saved for
off-roading and the occasional winter/snow.  Of which I now have over a foot
of the F%cking white stuff in the drive and the Dinosaur has no head.
Another thing of note is that when I pulled the head I also saw some very
unfortunate other problems.  The cylinder walls are very glazed except for
the gouges, and either the pistons or the cylinders are oval.  (this is
visible to the naked eye)  Kind of explains my getting only 90 psi on the
compression check.

All in all I know that I'm running the beast to hard, but at this altitude
8500 I almost have to push hard.  I will look around for another stat
housing, and see if my spare engine can be rehabilitated.

Thanks

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 14:14:50 -0700
Subject: vacuum gauges

There's been some talk lately on the usefulness of vacuum gauges. Could
someone explain to me exactly why these are useful and what info they give?
I assume they monitor the vacuum in the intake manifold which would
increase with greater amounts of fuel/air. Are these the same as the
green/yellow/red "fuel economy" gauges that I've seen in taxis and the like?

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John <jhong@flex.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:15:19 -0800
Subject: Re: babe magnets/ALAN!!! 

asfco <asfco@banet.net> wrote:

>Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
>> Markus asks if she was waving because my LR was on fire.... or for sympathy
>> reasons...

>>Or was it perhaps that she recognized you from your picture on a certain 
>T-Shirt she had seen somewhere???
>Steve

I think I can shed some light on this...
After the ANARC event I was wearing this T-shirt when I did some market
research in some of the Boston area exotic dance bars.  Lessee...Squire,
Golden Banana, Cabaret, Matthews, Glass Slipper, Macs, Fuzzy Grape, Alex's
and the Foxy Lady down in Providence.  

John

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 14:28:39 -0700
Subject: best method to restore/improve 2.25

I've been trying to dveise a plan of attack for Sid's aging engine (2.25
petrol). Here is the current situation:

-even compression, but lower than others (using same gauge) about 125 all
around with <5 variation between any two.
-uses some oil (quart/500 miles at worst) but no blue smoke, even on startup
-valves replaced ~4-5 years ago by PO, non-hardened
-decent power, but it sounds like it could be much better from what others
have told me. 88" SW w/ about 300 lbs of gear. I can hit 60 or 65 on the
flats (16" wheels, OD), but the slightest incline forces a drop to 4th and
anything that looks like a hill brings up 3rd in short order. I haven't hit
a hill yet that third can't manage (on road, of course). Generally starts,
idles, runs well.
-about 120k in 31 years, no bottom end work
-15 mpg highway/10-12 around town
-dizzy shaft wobbles some

So, I'd like to improve power, economy and reliabilty for long trips (OK,
and I -really- want to tear into the engine so I'll better understand it).
Some have suggested that I leave the bottom end alone, install hardened exh
valves/seats, replace timing chain and dizzy and go on my merry way. I
already have a new Zenith carb so a 2bbl's not an option. Any suggestions
for a plan of attack? I'm trying to decide so I can order some of the big
stuff from England and have it here by sea in time for summer work!

-joseph and sidney (drooling at the thought of more new bits)
missoula, mt

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:39:21 -0500
Subject: RE: alt's

Chris Dow has a great web page set up for the installation of an alternator.
I suggest checking it out if you plan to go this route as it is very
detailed.

http://www.thelen.org/IIAAlternator.html

- Murph
'67 IIA

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:53:09
Subject: Brakes

>Should you really be smearing silley-cone paste near your nice new aluminum
>cylinders?!

Why not? If one uses standard brake fluid, just don't put it inside. Just
on the dust cap. I use "silly-cone" brake fluid so, as they say "no problems".
I will have to order my rebuild kits from RN in future, the place I got the
last ones from didn't have the RED GREASE 8^).

Jim Wolf

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:55:54
Subject: RE: posting

>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!

DOES NOT!

Jim Wolf

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: WORKMEISTR@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:50:58 EST
Subject: Weber 1 barrel carb info needed

Hi, folks,
  My Weber 34 ICH is running rich.  I can't find any information on how to
change the jets or where to find an assortment of Weber jets.  Could you help?
Thanks for your time, Bren.

Bren Workman
109 Dublinsky St
Ft. Benning, GA 31905
(706) 689-2934
'72 88"  "Tilly"
'65 109" SW  "Baldwin"
'90 RR

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:02:38 -1000
Subject: RPM = MPH

>Well, I've rechecked my math, and will provide it here for cross
>examination by those who aren't Liberal Arts majors like myself (hehe)
>Now, the diameter of a 7.10 x 15 is about 29", a 235/85R16 is about 31.7",
>Of course, these aren't real world figures, but I can't think of any
>variables that would affect them.

I get 32.3" for a 235/85r16 but heck thats only 1mph and is sooo dependant
on rim width.  Now I am in my Senior year and don't actually have a BS yet,
but I do have an AS in Civil Engineering and Computer Science and I am dual
majoring in Math and Computer Science (which explains my poor spelling and
grahmer, love dat spell check) and currently have a 3.7 gpa soooo . . . My
vote goes to Joseph and Sydney

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:01:28 -0600
Subject: greetings

Well people, I had a great speech prepared and ready to send to the list,
when a fellow co-worker asked me to print a document from a diskette of his.
He ran out carrying his diskette and wy computer tryied to close the file
without the diskette. What happened? Of course the system crashed, its
Windows!!
What I was about to say, is that this has been a great year, I've enjoyed
greatly having a seat at this pub, and listening to a great bunch of guys
and girl (I know of no other than you TeriAnn)
I've learned a lot. Specially how to pack the swivels with grease, how to
let the shackles loose (if I ever get some of those), and, the most
important thing, a hundred and one techniques for flaming peolpe up. (GREAT
literature :-))
I apologize once again (if I ever did) for my terrible english.
And I thank you all for this experience.
Now I will have to leave the list until January. I'm leaving on monday to
Argentina, (on business, what a shame!) so I wont be able to read my mail
the next week because of that, and then I go on VACATIONS, so I will be back
next year.

So, people I needed to tell you that I really wish you all a Merry Cristmas,
and I hope that the new year brings you all new projects, new strenght and a
lot of happiness to your lives.
(Did I sound too corny? Nah...)

Well, I will be unsubscribing on monday morning (or at least try).
Bye bye for now.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:10:51 -1000
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

Just want to make sure I got this straight:

The Rover uses a GM aluminum V-8 which is attched to the Chrysler 747 auto
tranny?
If this is correct, exactly what mods were made to connect the two?
I have rebuilt a number of 727's and TH-350's(what you would expect to find
behind the GM engine) and the bolt patterns are not that close.
If it is the tranny that has been modified, then couldn't you swap in one of
the newer GM torque controlled auto boxes?

Mahalo
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:11:49 -1000
Subject: Re: Cling oils

>In the T-box where I have a
>temp sender, 

Sandy,
was wondering where/how the sender was installed.
Mahalo
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:23:22 -0600
Subject: RE: posting

>>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
>DOES NOT!
>Jim Wolf

Last time I went to Panama, I became aware that they make Guiness there. I
took 3 six packs home, its a shame they didn't last long. I wasn't able to
convince my wife that there was a speciall relation between Guiness and LR.
I think she gave away most of them. I only was able to drink 2 or 3 of them.
What a shame!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:46:32 -0800
Subject: another nerd type(not) was RE: RPM = MPH

 >
 >  I get 32.3" for a 235/85r16 but heck thats only 1mph and
 >  is sooo dependant
 >  on rim width.  Now I am in my Senior year and don't
 >  actually have a BS yet,
 >  but I do have an AS in Civil Engineering and Computer
 >  Science and I am dual
 >  majoring in Math and Computer Science (which explains my
 >  poor spelling and
 >  grahmer, love dat spell check) and currently have a 3.7
 >  gpa soooo . . . My
 >  vote goes to Joseph and Sydney
 >
Cool, another math and CS double. I did that and have found that after
19 years, none of it is used and most knowledge never did get applied.
But it does get jobs when on the ol' resume'. At least you have a good
GPA, I played too much.

BTW, size will also be very dependent on air pressure. One other
thing, measuring the size of the tire is very misleading (especially
if done with no weight on the tire. The important measurement is a
loaded weight, and only measuring the radius from the ground to the
center of the hub. This is the actual rolling radius and if you look
at a tire with weight on, you will see the obvious flattening. Use
this radius to figure the speed vs RPM.

Clayton

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:55:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Burn't No. 4 and Thermostats

> The Stat housing on the Dinosaur won't accept a skirted stat.  Tried
> this
> once and the B@tch dont fit.  I have suspected that when the beast was
> fitted with the very early Kodiak, a unique/different housing was
> fitted.
> This is a 1959 Series II and the housing is different that others I've
> seen.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> from
> another 59 SII with a Kodiak.

SII's used a unique thermostat with a bellows. They have been very
difficult to find for several years, and I don't know of any sources.
Note that they are different and not interchangable with a similar
appearing thermostat used in SIs. The good news is that the SIIA
thermostat housing and related parts are interchangeable so that a later
style thermostat can be used.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 00:01:42 -0000
Subject: Re: Is there anybody out there?

welcome back, not that I read your posting or anything, oh no...
anyway, I'm not talking to you, fancy leaving the country just as I was
coming over, that's taking it a bit far :-(>
BTW Adrian, how do you tighten your shackles (DUCK!)

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:42:42 -0500
Subject: Re: greetings

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:

> <snipped>
> What I was about to say, is that this has been a great year,
> <snipped>
> So, people I needed to tell you that I really wish you all a Merry Cristmas,
> and I hope that the new year brings you all new projects, new strenght and a
> lot of happiness to your lives.
> (Did I sound too corny? Nah...)
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Bye bye for now.
> Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON

I am sure I speak for many of us when I say you have been a very welcomed
addition to the 'pub'. Now if we can only figure out to pass out Guinness over
the
net! I have been GUINNLESS before and it stinks. At least go visit at the
Guinness
site --> http://www.guinness.ie/   ...unless it is too much of a tease you can
download
the screen saver....quite cruel unless you have a pint of your own nearby.
Here's the
LR content ----> It is quite enjoyable to drive my LR to go buy Guinness.
Sometimes
I even sit in front of my house in 'No Chance' to drink the first one or two.

On the serious note .....Let me second your wishes...hope everyone has the best
Holidays ever and health (both yours and your LR's) and happiness in the new
year.
Rover On in 99!

Cheers - Mike
'66 hybrid coiler 109 SW
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Trails/6623/

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:34:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Weber 1 barrel carb info needed

WORKMEISTR@aol.com wrote:

> Hi, folks,
>   My Weber 34 ICH is running rich.  I can't find any information on how to
> change the jets or where to find an assortment of Weber jets.  Could you help?
> Thanks for your time, Bren.
> Bren Workman
> 109 Dublinsky St
> Ft. Benning, GA 31905
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> '65 109" SW  "Baldwin"
> '90 RR

Rovers North used to have the jets for Webers. The first one Ihad was jetted 
for a
WV and didn't work all that well. much better after jet change.
John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:47:07 -0400
Subject: Re: best method to restore/improve 2.25

Joseph Broach wrote:

> I've been trying to dveise a plan of attack for Sid's aging engine (2.25
> petrol). Here is the current situation:
> -even compression, but lower than others (using same gauge) about 125 all
> around with <5 variation between any two.
> -uses some oil (quart/500 miles at worst) but no blue smoke, even on startup
> -valves replaced ~4-5 years ago by PO, non-hardened
> -decent power, but it sounds like it could be much better from what others
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> stuff from England and have it here by sea in time for summer work!
> -joseph and sidney

Do it all. Get the block bored the smallest size possible to get it true
(probably +0.020 ) so you will need new pistons. get the crank mic'ed and
ground  the least amount . You will then need new rod and main bearings and
thrust washers.
replace the timing chain and slides. Look carefully at the lifters. the sliders
will likely need to be replaced.
Check the head for cracks and flatness. If it is Low compression get a bit
planed off to bump the compression. Put in new valve guides, hardened seats and
valves.
If funds allow a distributor is the way to go. And any thing else I may have
forgotten.

Don't you just love spending some one elses money.
John and Muddy

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From: "Brian G. Holmes" <b-sholmes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:35:36 -0800
Subject: Re: who's mad

Simon,
Buy her a II-A.  My wife's first comments when she saw my new II-A were
very four lettered but she now thinks it matches its driver :-( .  Like me
you'll have to do all the driving :-) - she has bad knee and, and besides, 
never could double clutch.
Cheers,
Brian

----------
> From: Skhar1927@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: who's mad
> Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 10:39 PM
> frank elson wanted to know if my wife can drive a stick (standard
> transmission, that is).  She can't. (drive a manual shifted transmission

that
> is).  THAT is the beauty of the whole thing.  I get a great vehicle that
will
> keep me occupied when I have my daily 15 minutes of free time, and SHE
CANT
> DRIVE IT(the rover, that is).
> simon harding.  still pining for my rover, leaning toward series IIa. but
> Subject: who's mad
need

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:27:18
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

	Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!

>>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
>DOES NOT!
>Jim Wolf

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From: Rovergo@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 23:29:55 EST
Subject: Re: burnt no.4 intake

Mitch
 As has been mentioned this sounds like a problem caused by a lean mixture.
when checking this out dont overlook the bottom side of the intake manifold
where it meets the exhaust manifold, it has great potential for cracks in this
area, you can use 11a bearings in place of the original 11 bearings. you just
need to renotch the block on the opposite side from original, this can be done
easily if you measure and mark carefully. then cut block slowly with a
diegrinder or like tool. good luck.
 Pat Young.
 ser 11a 88"

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 06:31:55 +0200
Subject: Re: Guisness taste

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
>         Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!

Sheesh! Tastes differ. You either have good taste, or you don't!
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:41:46 -0700
Subject: RE: Guisness taste

>	Does not taste like asphalt, it IS asphalt!!!
>>>WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!
>>DOES NOT!

This is the WRONG place to taking the name of the holy water in vain.  This
is the virtual church of the black gold.  Go climb back into your Geo
Metro, crack open your Zima and drive your lame ass over to the bowling
alley...

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 07:10:32 +0100
Subject: faulty glow plugs

I have cured my glow plug problem - if anyone is interested, here's the
circuit -

12 volts is fed from the ignition switch in pre-heat position, through a
ballast which provides a dummy load to obviate short circuit or putting
the entire load through the indicator lamp.

The ballast gets hot as the glow plugs draw more current, thus
increasing it's resistance. The panel light is in parallel with the
ballast, when the circuit is first closed, the ballast has almost no
resistance, hence the indicator lamp doesn't get much power as the
current follows the path of least resistance. As the ballast heats up,
the resistance rises, allowing more current to flow through the lamp, by
passing the ballast and making the lamp glow brighter.

The glow plugs are wired in series - like christmas tree lights - if one
is dud, then they all do not work.

(Some vehicles use parallel wired glow plugs, but not the stock rover
2.25 diesel)

The glow plug filament, and its two terminals, should be isolated from
the chassis of the glow plug (the threaded casing which screws into the
block) If the plug is faulty internally - a short between the filament
wiring and the casing will ground the pre-heat circuit, drawing current
but not allowing the glow plugs to heat up properly, and not allowing
the ballast to warm up. (At least mine didn't)

I had a short between filament and chassis on the front (#1) plug).

Theoretically, the further forward the short is, the less it should
affect the working of the other plugs, but I guess the circuit is
dimensioned to heat up just right when all four ar working, so even a
short of #1 will not offer enough resistance/load to heat the other 3.

Anyway - that was the cause of my problem - replaced #1 and all worked
fine.

Here's a sort of diagram for those who may be interested. the circuit is
simple - no relays, hence the BIG cables onto the ignition switch.

          panel indicator lamp
12v           |---O---|                  glow plugs
from key      |       |            4      3      2      1     (front >)
o-------------o///////o-----------| |----| |----| |----| |------o earth
            ballast coil          |o|    |o|    |o|    |o|
            on bulkhead

Hope this proves of interest to someone!

Happy rovering... 

Adrian Redmond

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 07:11:35 +0100
Subject: Sorry, but I bought a Bronco!

Hi all!

Just returned from two months filming in Alaska. For the first week I
hired a Mitsubishi Montero, but at around 600 dollars a week plus
insurance (which is really heavy if you don't have a US license) this
would have become an expensive *hobby* - so I decided to go the whole
hog and buy a truck.

Not too many Landies on the road up there, even fewer for sale at prices
interesting, and no hope of a working heater - and Alaska needs heat!

So I hid my pride and went over to the "other side" and bought a 1984
Ford Bronco with a 5.8l V8 gas-guzzler, automatic gears (funny gears for
us euro's) and plenty of space and comfort. A snip at 2700 dollars,
which is well below the market resale price of 5600 according to the
little yellow bible. What could be wrong with her I asked myself???

Well took the tyres to be checked and discovered that the tires, and
wheels belonged to a ford exploder and NOT a Bronco - wham - there went
another 500 dollars, then an oil check and fluid check, and ready for
the road.

I did have to take a US driving test to save insurance ( I saved over
2500 dollars for 6 months with AAA coverage on a US license). The test
was funny - I seem to have pulled an easy multiple choice test - passed
first time, but failed the road test first time due to not having
practyioced the parallel parking in the new Bronco. (Well, as I said to
the inspector - I have driven for 23 years, the last 16 in a 109, I just
don't try to parallel park anymore - I drive it to somewhere where the
maneuver is easier, then WALK - but that didn't get me any slack. Second
time I ran the road test I passed. (OK, when the laughing has died down,
how many here reckon they could pass the theory and road test first time
today, without reading up?)

In the beginning of November I took the drive from Anchorage to
Fairbanks, a nice 400 miles over the mountains hoping for the photogenic
vistas for my documentary series - no luck, 9 hours of freezing rain,
fog, and blinding snowstorm most of the way through Denali park - no
horizon, couldn't even see the trees at the side of the road, and plenty
of fun taking the hills with a automatic gearbox - I knew there must be
a reason for preferring the manual box - this was it.

But the wagon functioned perfectly for two months, even starting in
minus 30' degrees celcius in Fairbanks having been left in a hotel car
park for three weeks without pre-warming or charging.

OK, it's not a landy, but it did give me many of the joys of four
wheeling, space, freedom, safe driving and handling, and a working
heater and aircon to boot. One door handle snapped, the rear window
(electric) failed a few times, and one loudspeaker went dead - but apart
from all that, no problems and lots of fun.

She's locked up and mothballed until the spring, when I return to
Anchorage for some serious off-roading next year. Maybe she'll acquire a
LR logo before I sell her...In fact, I'd love to bring her home, but,
crazy thing is, that this rig, with its excellent emissions test result,
but with space for 5 would cost a fortune to register in Denmark.

So for the next few weeks it's back to bashing the 88's and the 109 into
shape. maybe tackling another front axle rebuild over Christmas?

Now... back to the workshop to fix those headlights on the 109....

Nice to be back folks.

Season's greetings!

Adrian Redmond

	[Attachment  removed, was 1 lines.]	

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 02:29:40 EST
Subject: Side curtains forever!

The sliding side curtains in the old series Land Rovers are reminiscent of
confessionals in Catholic churches.  Slide one open: "Bless me Father..."

Paulus
1965 mobile confessional and oil spot applicator.


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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 02:33:12 EST
Subject: Synchro?  Was ist das?

TeriAnn J. Wakeman wrote:

"What! You say someone invented a syncro first gear??"

This is just a nasty rumor.  Probably nothing to it.  I have, however,  heard
talk about second gear synchros.

Paul Donohue
1965 109

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 03:30:31 EST
Subject: Re: Guinness taste

...Personally, I prefer Heineken, LeBatt's, or Fosters (Castlemaine's hasn't
been seen in the L.A. area for a good 10 years), but not really in that order
(or any order for that matter!).

Charles

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 02:42:12 -0600
Subject: RE: Guinness taste

Knock Knock Knock

Molly:  Mornin Patrick!  Where be me husband Mick?"

Pat:  "I am sorry to be the one ta tell ya Molly but y're husband Mick is
dead" "He drowned in a vat of Guinness at the brewery!"

Molly:  "At least he went quickly and peaceful"

Pat: "Well not exactly"

Molly; "No?"

Pat:  "No, he had to get out three times to take a piss"

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 00:43:01 -0000
Subject: Re: greetings

Luis,
you have a nice trip and a good vacation and a:

MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 00:45:40 -0000
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

you write:

The Rover uses a GM aluminium V-8 which is attached to the Chrysler 747 auto
tranny?

well now, just what would you expect to find under the hood of a British car
owned by a German company ?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Sat, 12 Dec 1998 10:49:07 +0100
Subject: Volvo engines

Dear list members,

I posted the below information about adapterplates for Volvo engines some
time ago. I am now receiving more questions so I post it again. So here it is:

There has been some interest in th elist for Volvo engines and adapters for
those. I promised to try and find out more about this. In the Swedish Land
Rover club´s journal 1/98 Volvo engines are discussed. There is a guy,
Torbjörn Jonsson, in Umeå, Sweden, (I think he has got some kind of
workshop) that has made adapterplates for several of the Volvo engines.
Most videly used have been the VW/Volvo D24 6-cylinder diesel. They have
some adapterplates for this engine for sale (3000 SEK + VAT = 230£ + VAT,
price due to 980630 so maybe a bit higher now). They have also tested to
use the Volvo B21 engine (4-cylinder, petrol) which they claim to be
powerful and cheap to bouth buy and use. For those of you who are
interested in Volvo engines I suggest to phone Torbjörn Jonsson (+46 0934
310 18). 

Hope this helps,

Peter

Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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