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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 12:01:04 +0000
Subject: Re: Petrol?

Regrettably,yes.

or the fact
>that two of our players took payments from a bookie?  (Note were were
>taught to do that by our friends from the Indian sub-continent (dunno if it
>was the Pakistanis or the Indians).
The sin was not in the taking.It was in the being found out...:-)

Mike

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From: Mikko Kalevi Lehmusto <mlehmust@hit.fi>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:09:11 +0200
Subject: Peugeot Diesels

If have experience on only one Peugeot diesel engine, but that is a piece
of machinery that has truly impressed me. The vehicle in question is an
old Talbot Horizon (a Finnish made car), which uses the Peugeot 1.9l N/A
4-cyl diesel. My friend's father has had it for years as a "second car".

Whenever my friends and I have made longer trips (usually hiking trips to
Lappland) we have always borrowed this car, mostly because it's so
damn cheap to drive. We have usually got at about 4.5 l/100 km , which
makes around 52 mpg (if I calculated it correctly). With the fuel prices
in Finland being what they are that's quite important for a student...

The engine has now about 220 000 miles on it, with only normal maintenance
(oil changes etc) and it seems to go on forever. Of course the thing is
not a rocket, but if you wait long enough with the gas pedal floored,
it'll slowly climb up to around 100 mph on a good day, which I would have
never believed if I hadn't done it myself.

If the other Peugeot diesels are anything like that engine, just get it.

Mikko Lehmusto
student, Mech. Engineering
FINLAND

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From: Adrian Redmond <channel6@post2.tele.dk>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:11:37 +0100
Subject: Faulty glowplugs SIII Diesel 2.25l

I have cured my glow plug problem - if anyone is interested, here's the
circuit -

12 volts is fed from the ignition switch in pre-heat position, through a
ballast which provides a dummy load to obviate short circuit or putting
the entire load through the indicator lamp.

The ballast gets hot as the glow plugs draw more current, thus
increasing it's resistance. The panel light is in parallel with the
ballast, when the circuit is first closed, the ballast has almost no
resistance, hence the indicator lamp doesn't get much power as the
current follows the path of least resistance. As the ballast heats up,
the resistance rises, allowing more current to flow through the lamp, by
passing the ballast and making the lamp glow brighter.

The glow plugs are wired in series - like christmas tree lights - if one
is dud, then they all do not work.

(Some vehicles use parallel wired glow plugs, but not the stock rover
2.25 diesel)

The glow plug filament, and its two terminals, should be isolated from
the chassis of the glow plug (the threaded casing which screws into the
block) If the plug is faulty internally - a short between the filament
wiring and the casing will ground the pre-heat circuit, drawing current
but not allowing the glow plugs to heat up properly, and not allowing
the ballast to warm up. (At least mine didn't)

I had a short between filament and chassis on the front (#1) plug).

Theoretically, the further forward the short is, the less it should
affect the working of the other plugs, but I guess the circuit is
dimensioned to heat up just right when all four ar working, so even a
short of #1 will not offer enough resistance/load to heat the other 3.

Anyway - that was the cause of my problem - replaced #1 and all worked
fine.

Here's a sort of diagram for those who may be interested. the circuit is
simple - no relays, hence the BIG cables onto the ignition switch.

          panel indicator lamp
12v           |---O---|                  glow plugs
from key      |       |            4      3      2      1     (front >)
o-------------o///////o-----------| |----| |----| |----| |------o earth
            ballast coil          |o|    |o|    |o|    |o|
            on bulkhead

Hope this proves of interest to someone!

Happy rovering...

Adrian Redmond

CHANNEL 6 TELEVISION DENMARK
Foerlevvej 6  Mesing  DK-8660  Skanderborg  Denmark
telephone (office)		    +45 86 57 22 66
telephone (home)		    +45 86 57 22 64
telefacsimile / data		    +45 86 57 24 46
mobile GSM (EFP unit)		    +45 40 74 75 64
mobile GSM (admin)		    +45 40 50 22 66
mobile NMT			    +45 30 86 75 66
e-mail			     channel6@post2.tele.dk
website				    www.channel6.dk
"Native Experience" - production unit in Alaska USA
telephone			     (907) 230 0359
e-mail				channel6@alaska.net
Visit the "Native Experience" project website at
http://www.channel6.dk/native

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 07:13:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

Mitch -

First off, good luck finding Series II mains. I couldn't even find them in the
UK when I was there.....

Secondly, if you're trashing #4 consistently, is there a possibility that your
brake booster or something else is causing a lean mix down at the back end of
the motor? Seems like it might be a possibility here. I did the long drives with
Mr. C before I got myself moved closer to home, and I didn't burn valves.

Also, is there a possibility that you've got a cracked or otherwise messed up
exhaust manifold? Air incursion through a bad gasket or something like it might
cause problems. When you take the manifolds off, check the mating surfaces with
a good straightedge.

Lastly, don't use the silly separated ring-type manifold gasket - use a
full-length one. The intake-only aluminum gaskets never made a lot of sense to
me.....

                    ajr

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 12:14:41 +0000
Subject: Re: Mike Rooth

>It has a limited slip differential? I thought this stopped wind up?
It was just a thought,Neil,based on your description of the problem.
Now you've got me confused:-) A centre diff will stop windup,but
surely if you had one of those,you'd have permanent 4WD? I cant see
how limited slip *axle* diffs could though.
Then again,I *did* say I was not au fait with the Explorer's layout.

 If it went to 50-50 and the front diff was
>'broken' wouldn't I just skid around as the back tries the now locked up
>front?
Not sure.As a guess,if the front diff was inoperative,as say,a broken
halfshaft or FWH not engaged,I'd say you just wouldnt go anywhere.
Locked up though,wouldnt there be a distinct reluctance to turn
corners?

>if you turn your LR wheel 1 turn of full lock does it sound like the front
>is going to drop off?
Mine sounds like that from the instant I start the engine.I dont need to
touch the steering wheel:-)

Cheers
Mike

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:03:56 +1100
Subject: New Landie

Alain-Jean PARES wrote:
>The only problem is my girlfriend, she doesn't want
>to even think of buying a new landie...

Alain-Jean you have answered your own question!  Re-read the above
sentence - see the word "girlfriend"

She isn't your wife.... 8-0

I recently went throught the same problem.  But in my case it was my wife.
I didn't buy the Landie.

Ron (now donning Nomex suit in expectation of email from TW)

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 07:23:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Mike Rooth

Mike slanders:

>Mine sounds like that from the instant I start the engine.I dont need to
>touch the steering wheel:-)

Nora's going to get you for this.....for a well-behaved elderly lady she does
quite nicely.

     aj"Never speak ill of the car when it can hear you...."r

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 07:29:58 -0500
Subject: RE: New Landie

I don't have a girlfriend but would give up one of my LR's for a wife... I
guess I have the wrong attitude, perhaps I need to go around making
derogatory comments too ;-)

I may suggest an option: keep the girlfriend and buy her a nice rock, get
down on one knee, give her the rock... then bring up the Landy...

   }\/\/\/\{ Marc-Andre Leger
   |       | Network Eng.
  ()()---, | WEFA inc.
 (_        | 800 Baldwin Tower
   |_______| Eddystone Pennsylvania
   -/\-----| USA 19022
  |/\/ , , | (610) 490-2763
  /\/  |_| | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com
  -~    || | http://www.wefa.com
  |_____||_| http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Station/8098/

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 12:30:51 +0000
Subject: Re: Mike Rooth

>Nora's going to get you for this.....for a well-behaved elderly lady she does
>quite nicely.
>     aj"Never speak ill of the car when it can hear you...."r

I typed it in a whisper,Al......

Mike

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:01:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

Ask Dave Lowe about thermostats and bits of skirt and he'll tell you you need
one of each.
You should be using the original "skirted " thermostat not one of the newer
flat ones which allow too much by-pass of the coolant.
John and Muddy

The Stockdales wrote:

> Hello again my friends
> Two months ago I pestered you about burning the No. 4 Intake valve for =
> the fourth time.  Many replies said cooling problem, many said I was a =
> fool for running it down the Hiway at 70+ MPH - 100 miles each day.  =
> Well I am finally getting around to fixing the Dinosaur and have to ask =
> the same questions again (lost my hard-drive&no backup).
> Scenario: 2.25l Series II engine, 7:1 compression head.  100K+100K+many =
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 31 lines)]
> as NLA).
> Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:04:48 +0100
Subject: Re: New Landie

>I may suggest an option: keep the girlfriend and buy her a nice rock, get
>down on one knee, give her the rock... then bring up the Landy...

It's the way I'll do it.
Thanks a lot.

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:24:49 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: Re: New Landie

Alain-Jean PARES wrote:
The only problem is my girlfriend, she doesn't want
to even think of buying a new landie...
Alain-Jean you have answered your own question!  Re-read the above
sentence - see the word "girlfriend"
She isn't your wife.... 8-0
I recently went throught the same problem.  But in my case it was my
wife.
I didn't buy the Landie.
Ron (now donning Nomex suit in expectation of email from TW)

I agree with Ron, if she is just a girlfriend (not sharing rent,
bills...) then what you decide to spend your money is pretty much your
decision. 
TW, what would you say to a SO who didn't like your Rover?
On a different note;
My wife and I have been talking about getting a second Rover for the
last six months to replace her VW. She hasn't been keen on the idea
until the past week. Last week it started to snow, and has snowed
every day since. She is having a serious change of heart....:-) 
You could also point out the obvious to your girlfriend," you feel
that she is much safer in a truck than a car". I have seen how some
people drive in France, this might not be a bad arguement.
 Smitty

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:07:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

Thanks to everyone who responded, re: early Range Rover 3 speed 
autos.  Now I'm onto a good thing perhaps I can glean the following;

How did they attach it to the transfer case (I know... bolts), and 
which transfer case did they use?  If it is an LT95 effort then there 
must have been an adaptor plate?

And...  What auto 'box did they use in a Rover SD1?
And...  Is there a 4 speed auto 'box that will fit in the same hole as 
the Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte, using the same mountings?

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR
I'm just interested.

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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 07:42:14 -0600
Subject: Re: easy choice for Simon

>>>>> "Faye" == Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> writes:

    Faye> 	If you like plastic that falls apart, pieces
    Faye> blocking the airflow from the front vents, and can't
    Faye> shift a real transmission, then by all means buy the
    Faye> POS '72 series III.  If you want a real rover, buy
    Faye> the '70 series IIa.  You can tell I have no bias
    Faye> against the series III.

And obviously if you have low self-esteem, no character of
your own and a childish need to identify with inanimate
objects to gauge your worth then look to this fellow.
Feh.
						-MM

-- 
Owner of an SIII and a Triumph with roll-up windows.

(And tired of SGS-suffering cretins who seem to think I'm not
 good enough to be in their club(s) because I have syncros
 and/or no sidecurtains.)

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From: "Kevin and Crew" <willeys@cyberus.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 08:53:40 -0500
Subject: new landy
	charset="iso-8859-1"

just had to send in my 2c worth
ladys love the lightweight

Kevin Willey
1996 disko (edith),
1973 lightwieght,
1987 Merlin, 1998 True North soft tail(full boing)
Hummers hum but Land Rovers know the words !

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:44:25 -0000
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

I've just been through the thermostat replacing process 
on my SIII 2.25 and I found it impossible to obtain a 
replacement 'skirted' thermostat. These are the older 
ethylene glycol type and the normal outlets I tried 
(Paddock Craddocks) couldn't supply one. In the end I 
fitted a modern, wax type 77 degree. 

Since fitting I have noticed that the engine does have 
tendancy to get a bit too near the red mark on the 
temperature guage (with the old stat it was never getting 
warm; the stat. was jammed open). Is this the reason 
why? I've fitted the wrong type of stat? If you can't get 
hold of the old glycol type stat. is there a mod. you can 
do to the thermostat housing that can be done to cure 
this problem?

On 10 Dec 98, at 9:01, John Cranfield wrote:

> Ask Dave Lowe about thermostats and bits of skirt and he'll tell you you need
> one of each.
> You should be using the original "skirted " thermostat not one of the newer
> flat ones which allow too much by-pass of the coolant.

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90
In the UK
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:07:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

Steve,

Did the thermostat you fit have any method for blocking off the bypass when it
opened? If not, then the cooling path isn't going to be working right and could
be causing your difficualties (though i'm honestly not all that sure...).

For the folks who can't get the proper stats, i've heard that putting a blanking
plate in the bypass hose with a 5/16" hole in it will serve a similar puropse -
restricting the flow on open thermostat.

Having never tried this myself I'd be cautious with it, but it's worth a shot...

                         ajr

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From: "HENRY STAGE"<henry.stage@smtp.cnet.navy.mil>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 08:59:05 -0600
Subject: Babes did 11a's

     Okay, we all know that real rovers have eyeballs in the middle because 
     it keeps 'em cross-eyed. When they put the eyes out on the wings the 
     poor beasts got stereo vision and started to balk at going places the 
     heretofore they had been blissfully quite comfortable going...
        Now, if you believe that, buy the 11a and tell your wife that it 
     followed you home, it's nose is cold so it's healthy, you'll keep it 
     outside even at night, and you'll take care of it by yourself.  A 
     little whining will go a long way, don't forget to stick out the lower 
     lip a little and make demurring sounds (works everytime).  
     
     Good luck with the diminutive beast, and whatever you do, for god's 
     sake, DO NOT EVER ask the list about schackle torques...
     
     Cheers,
     
     Cole Stage, Hefelump herder
     IIa ambulance

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:35:25 +0000
Subject: Re: Babes did 11a's

>     Good luck with the diminutive beast, and whatever you do, for god's
>     sake, DO NOT EVER ask the list about schackle torques...
...Or Free Wheel Hubs..

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Kenner, Dixon" <Dixon.Kenner@ms.rc.x400.gc.ca>
Date: 10 Dec 1998 09:50:00 -0500
Subject: babe magnets

Paul Donohue writes:

>Remember, the Land Rover can be the ultimate babe magnet.

Yo, Mr. Berg, care to comment on this?  How does the BMW compare 
with the Land-Rover?  (I can say that the BGB does better than a Saab 900,
though I tend to think the Mini did better than the BGB.  Summertime, 88",
no top, downtown Ottawa in the market area...  It works...)

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:04:44 -0500
Subject: Re: babe magnets

Considering I've had attractive women alone in cars smiling and waving at me on
the highway, I agree on the concept that an LR may help one be more
attractive...

...'cause God knows it ain't my smiling face that's attracting 'em.

                    aj"Warthogs R' Us"r

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@email.msn.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:15:12 -0000
Subject: Babe magnets

Er....talking about Babe Magnets?! Well, my LR may be a police magnet...but
no babes. The Explorer is an idiot magent...i.e. people can't see it and
pull out on me (I dunno what they think it is!!!).

Anyone else had the police magnet problem...it seems that driving a 20 year
old LR with military colours and a 20 foot ariel (?) is cause for concern!
It's all MOT'd and the Taxed and all the tyres are legal....why don't they
stop the pr*cks in F*rd Escorts that do 90mph around my estate which is a
30!!! Oh, and why do F*rd Escorts seemingly have un-turnoffable front fog
lights and drivers with reversed baseball caps?!!!!!!! Oh, and noise
supression systems that all LR owners would love (i.e. a working, audible
stereo!!!!)

Anyway...I can't wait till one stops sharp in front of me...oh dear!!!!

Neil

SIII 109" 1978

NO ESCORT!!!!

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From: "British Bulldog Spares, Ltd." <bulldog@meganet.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:18:50 -0500
Subject: Mighty Joe Young!

Hey Guys,

Wow!  Just saw a preview last night for the new Disney flick "Mighty Joe
Young."  They showed no less than SIX Land Rovers in the preview!  Three
109s, two 88s and a IIB or a 101 way in the background.  This is gonna
be quite a movie for us Rover-geeks with no lives!

One bad note, they did show the gorilla smashing and knocking over a
109" that was chasing him.  Oh well . . . :)

Check it out!

See ya,

Paul

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From: Fred Dushin <fadushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:20:44 -0500 (EST)
Subject:  Re: Bill Rice's Brake Woes

// Two questions:  1) when I clamp rear brake line, pedal's firm.
// Squishiness isn't real problem, even when driving w/ no clamps--main
// prob. is that pedal won't pump up at all, which un-nerves me, even though
// I've not "bottomed out" the pedal in weeks of driving around.

Haynes suggests using the clutch-bleed method for rear lines, if they
are not expelling air, when using the old-fashioned bleed method, ie, 
two or more people: pump pedal rapdily three times, tighten bleed
screw, let up pedal, loosen bleed screw, pump once, tighten, let up,
loosen, pump once, tighen, let up, loosen, etc.

I noticed that on the 88 I have it was hard to get all the air out
of the rear lines without using this method (I have yet to do it,
in fact, and I have the same squishiness you report), and that
was with a freshly rebuilt CB.  I wonder if the problem is more
likely with a 109.

// My LF is way farther (in linear brake line feet) from the master than my
// RF is.  Are my SIIA lines routed differently (over engine to 5 way jct,
// then under engine and up to LF wheel cylinder) than other folks' SIIAs?

My IIA is routed as yours is, I suspect -- brake master to 5-way junction
runs along the firewall behind the engine, then down the passenger (NA)
footwell.  5-way junction is mounted to the frame on RH side, just as
it is on RH drive vehicles.

If memory serves, Haynes recommends the order you mentioned, but does
not say nearest to farthest.  They say something like farthest to
nearest in front, then nearest to farthest (? or was it the other way 
around -- don't have it in front of me) in back.  I didn't follow their
advice, but then again I still have air in my lines...

-Fred Dushin
Oliver '64 Regular

--
Fred Dushin                      mailto:fadushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu
PGP public key available at      http://blackcat.cat.syr.edu/~fadushin/pgp

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:25:15 -0500
Subject: Brakin' up

Bill Rice Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:	

>2) why do people always say bleed nearest to farthest; LF, RF . . .?  My
LF >is way farther (in linear brake line feet) from the master than my RF
is.  

Correct...on a LHD vehicle the right front is the nearest cylinder.  Which
raises another interesting question sure to have sides/opinions.  Bushings!
No wait...let's not start that again ;-)  Rather do you bleed from nearest
to farthest or the other way 'round.  I can make and have heard compelling
reasoning/arguments for both and indeed have used both over the years
without finding an appreciable difference.  Of course, now that I use
silicone brake fluid (another controversial subject, it seems) I haven't
touched the brake system in five years, except to change the fluid and
renew the shoes.  Let the games begin! ;-)  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:26:00 +0000
Subject: Re: Mighty Joe Young!

>Wow!  Just saw a preview last night for the new Disney flick "Mighty Joe
>Young."

Thank you Paul for making me feel even more incredibly ancient than
I really am.I can remember going to see the *original* version of
"Mighty Joe Young".....

Cheers
Mike Rooth
(Depressed)

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From: SJH <SHARDING@SCHULTE-LAW.COM>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 07:26:00 -0800
Subject: who's mad?

alan richer wrote who'd you anger?.  No one, i think, just wanted to   
avoid doing so.  thanks for the advice.
simon harding (still trying to decide and still working on the wife)  

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:33:03 +0000
Subject: Re: Babe magnets

>Anyone else had the police magnet problem...it seems that driving a 20 year
>old LR with military colours and a 20 foot ariel (?) is cause for concern!
Its well known that the fuzz dont like the Army,because the squaddies have
more and better toys to play with.

>It's all MOT'd and the Taxed and all the tyres are legal....why don't they
>stop the pr*cks in F*rd Escorts that do 90mph around my estate which is a
>30!!!
'Cos they couldnt catch 'em.Last time they tried in this area,they stuffed
the cop car through a shop window....

 Oh, and why do F*rd Escorts seemingly have un-turnoffable front fog
>lights and drivers with reversed baseball caps?!!!!!!! Oh, and noise
>supression systems that all LR owners would love (i.e. a working, audible
>stereo!!!!)
Never mind Neil.Just wait until it snows......

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Markus Korth <mkorth@systline.de>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:34:24 +0100 (MET)
Subject: Re: babe magnets

> Considering I've had attractive women alone in cars smiling and waving at me 
on
> the highway, I agree on the concept that an LR may help one be more
> attractive...

And you are sure that she didn't

1) wave because she thought your LR was burning because of the smoke
getting out of your exhaust
2) only showed some sort of, *uh*, compassion ?

Ciao
 Markus

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:47:00 -0500
Subject: Re: babe magnets

Markus asks if she was waving because my LR was on fire.... or for sympathy
reasons...

Thanks a bunch, Markus.... kick me in the ego why don't you? 8*)

No, I don't think so. As Mr. C was fresh out of the rebuild shop the first time
this happened and it's been happening consistently since I am not complaining.
Of course, as I'm happily married it's not like I'm going to do a whole lot
about it, but then again I can dream.....8*)

On a more serious note a psychologist friend of mine (she's female, for all it
matters) suggests that the reasons LRs are attractive is that they display a
certain competence level. This, she says, subconciously translates to competence
in other things....damnifiknow what, as the conversation diverged to other items
at that time.

Personally, I always thought that it was because anyone with a toy like that
must have income - and money is attractive no matter what your genetic
structure...8*)

               aj"Not deluding myself...it's definitely the truck!"r

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 08:15:18 -0800
Subject: Re: easy choice for Simon

>Owner of an SIII and a Triumph with roll-up windows.
;
;>(And tired of SGS-suffering cretins who seem to think I'm not
;> good enough to be in their club(s) because I have syncros
;> and/or no sidecurtains.)

I have absolutely no argument with anything you said but are clubs really 
discriminating against your cars???I can understand a model specific club 
like TRA doing it because it is a TR2-3B specific club.    But I have not 
noticed general Triumph of LR clubs discriminating against certain 
models.  Is this really happening on a club level??

BTW, I didn't know Triumph made cars with roll up windows.  8^)  8^)  8^) 
 8^)  Sorry I couldn't resist.  Please do not let us model biggots get 
you down.  We each have our own personal biases but I sure hope that it 
is not reaching into club  policies or into club runs and I hope that no 
one is taking personal model biases seriously.  Chunks of oil coated 
metal should never get in the way of people relating to one another.

Regards

TeriAnn J. Wakeman

1960 Series II 109
1961 TR3A

"What! You say someone invented a syncro first gear??"

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:35:59 -0700
Subject: Michelin Tubes in Tubeless Tires

I was going to put Michelin tubes in my Goodyear Wrangler MT tires
(215/85-16) until the Michelin Consumer Hotline (and some list members)
advised against it.  I don't need to run low pressures for the
dirt/gravel/rocks/pavement surfaces I'll most often encounter; I was
only planning on using tubes because members of this mailing list had
advised to do so in the past.  I'll go tubeless and see if I run into
any problems.

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
1961 Series II SWB Truck Cab (restoration/rebuild proceeding nicely,
okay, slowly)

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:54:38 -0500
Subject: Re: babe magnets/ALAN

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> Markus asks if she was waving because my LR was on fire.... or for sympathy
> reasons...

>Or was it perhaps that she recognized you from your picture on a certain 
T-Shirt she had seen somewhere???
Steve

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:01:26 -0000
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

On 10 Dec 98, at 9:07, Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus. wrote:

> Did the thermostat you fit have any method for blocking off the bypass when it
> opened? If not, then the cooling path isn't going to be working right and 
could
> be causing your difficualties (though i'm honestly not all that sure...).

No it was just a plane flat disc so there is nothing like 
what you suggest blocking the bypass when the stat is 
open. Now it all makes sense!

I'll have to go and think about it... Now I no the problem I 
might be able to think up a solution.

Thanks...

Steve

1972 SIII LtWt
1993 D90
In the UK
Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:14:47 -0800
Subject: Re: auto boxes

From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 11:28:00 -0800 
Subject: auto boxes

     >Early RRs had a 3 speed auto 'box; when you drive it the engine 
     really revs in each gear before it (chunkily) selects the next...  
     Apparently the 3 speed auto is one of the more bulletproof offerings 
     in the gearbox department.  Can't remember who made the 'box.

The three-speed automatic used by earlier model Range Rovers was a Chrysler 
unit.  This transmission actually does not have a good reputation for 
reliability 
or longevity, and gave the automatic Range Rover a bad reputation back in those 
days.  I believe, but am not positive, that Rover used a much better Chrysler 
automatic for a short time until switching in the late 1980s to a four-speed ZF 
transmission.

For those of you who don't know,  the "Z" in ZF stands for "Zeppelin," the same 
company that made the big airships back in the '20s and '30s.  ZF is the gear 
division of the Zeppelin company, which is still very much alive today.  The ZF 
transmission used in the Range Rover, Discovery, and US-spec Defenders is a 
derivative of the ZF unit used by BMW and Mercedes.  Unlike the original 
Chrylser automatic (and the troublesome manual transmissions Land Rover used in 
the 
mid-'90s), the ZF automatics are about as bulletproof a unit as is possible to 
make.  They are actually 4-1/2 speed units, as there is a lockup feature in 
fourth gear which mechanically connects the gear train and eliminates the 
transmission "slippage" for better fuel efficiency.  Lockup occurs at just over 
50 
mph.  The ZF transmission has changed many people's opinions about the 
automatic Range Rover.  Buyers who wouldn't touch an auto Range Rover based on 
its 
initial reputation have found the ZF-equipped vehicle !
to be a delight to drive and extremely reliable.
__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 12:12:09 -0500
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

Re: Swapping thermostats:

After more thought, it seems like the readings might be caused by the lack of a
blanking skirt. The ttemperature sensor is just below that area, so if coolant
isn't exchanging properly with the radiator that might be a hot spot.

If you can find it, the later thermostat housing and top (the iron bit that the
bypass hose neck bolts to and the hose outlet that bolts above that) from a
later Rover 2.25 will swap in exactly and work perfectly. That's what I've done
to 2 earlier motors because of this paucity of early alcohol thermostats.

Not exactly sure as I changed both bits, but perhaps even swapping the top alone
might work - that's the bit that got modified to work with the newer-type
thermostat.

Considering you're in the UK, the bits should cost you about 5 quid. C'mon now,
you needed to change your coolant anyway.....<grin>

Pity you're not closer - i think I have one of the old alcohol thermostats lying
about in my used-spares bin...not like I'm ever going to use it...8*)

               ajr

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 12:11:26 EST
Subject: Occassional Missing V8

Every so often when I go to start my 83 RR nothing happens. I open the hood
(bonnet) and find that the engine has gone missing - empty space - nada. If I
close the hood and wait ten minutes or so it has reappeared and all is well.
It doesnt seem to matter if the engines was hot or cold. Is there some
localized problem with the time space continuum between the radiator and the
bellhousing? Can I sue LRNA for this? I know I bought it (well) used and its
grey market and all, but come on, this kind of defect is just unacceptable. I
mean even Detroit can manage to avoid major space-time defects (look how many
perfectly good engines sit in junked cars - for decades even!), why can't
Solihull?! 

But seriously, the worst engine miss I've encountered was due to bad plug
leads. They looked good and were fairly new, but had been removed and
reinstalled several tiimes in the course of doing some major engine work. They
were of the local auto parts store type, and apparently I had damaged them in
removal (maybe I should stop yanking so hard....) . Anyway I overcame my
cheapskate nature and popped for a proper set of new Lucas leads. That
completely cured the problem. Also be sure that they are separated from each
other and the rocker covers by using plastic separators. Cheers, Andy Blackley

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 09:29:43 -0800
Subject: Series IIa vs III

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 16:29:52
Subject: Re: easy choice for Simon

>If you like plastic that falls apart, pieces blocking the airflow from 
the front vents, and can't shift a real transmission, then by all means buy the
POS '72 series III.  If you want a real rover, buy the '70 series IIa.  You
can tell I have no bias against the series III.

Not long after I took delivery of my new Series III I noticed that there seemed 
to be no valid reason for the metal dashboard panel that blocked half of the 
right-hand bulkhead vent.  I took a saw to it and neatly doubled the size of 
the opening in the panel, which lets in a lot more air as you're driving.  
There's 
not much you can do to increase the airflow from the left-hand vent as it is 
partially blocked by the instrument panel.  The tropical roof kept the interior 
of 
the vehicle from getting hot in Hawaii, but it did get stuffy, so I installed a 
12-volt fan next to the upper right corner of the windshield with a switch on 
the dash.  So there are a few things you can do to improve the airfow inside a 
Series III.  But Peter's point about the Series IIa is well taken, and besides, 
with the IIa you get headlights mounted where God intended them to be.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:07:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:22:34 -0800
Subject: Burnt No. 4 Intake
	
>Two months ago I pestered you about burning the No. 4 Intake valve for 
the fourth time.  Many replies said cooling problem, many said I was a 
fool for running it down the Hiway at 70+ MPH - 100 miles each day.
Well I am finally getting around to fixing the Dinosaur and have to ask
the same questions again (lost my hard-drive&no backup). 

This is not going to be what you wanted to hear.  Based on my experience with 
the 2.25 engine and the experience of several mechanic friends in the UK who 
have 
worked on Land Rovers a lot longer than I've owned them (25 years) I would 
agree with the folks who say the cause of your problem is driving it at 70+ 
mph.  
The redline of the engine is 4,250 rpm.  To get 70 mph out of it, even with an 
overdrive, you're going to be pretty darn close to the redline, maybe 4,000 rpm 
or so.  If you're running taller tires, that will reduce the rpm needed but it 
will increase the amount of work the engine needs to do to maintain that speed, 
which will increase the heat generated by the engine.  Regardless, you're 
asking an agricultural engine designed as a slow-revving diesel in the late 
'50s to 
do the work of a modern, lightweight, high-revving engine of today.  (I assume 
you are aware that the petrol 2.25 was derived from the 2.25 diesel, which 
actually came first.)

Actually, I'm amazed you're getting as much as two years out of your valves if 
that's the way you're using the vehicle.  The Series Land Rovers were all 
designed during a time of relatively low road speeds; continuous fast driving 
on motorways or freeways was not part of the design criteria.  A cruising speed 
of 45-50 mph was considered just fine by the Land Rover (and Jeep, too, back 
then) engineers.

I know you're hoping for a technical solution to your "problem," better 
cooling, a different anti-freeze mix, or whatever.  But based on the 
description of how 
you're using the vehicle, it is my opinion that you're simply asking too much 
of an engine that was never intended to be used the way you're using it.  It's 
an 
old, low-tech design, and unless you drive it that way, you're going to have 
problems.  If I had a hundred dollars for every Series owner I've met or talked 
to 
over the last ten years who thinks they've bought a "modern" 4wd with a funky 
body, I could afford that new Defender 130 Crew Cab I've always wanted, along 
with the bribe required to let Customs allow it into the country.  They drive 
them like they would a more modern vehicle and then wonder why they have so 
many 
problems with the engines and drive trains.

Drive them (and maintain them) the way they were designed to be driven and a 
Series will last damn near forever.  Mine certainly has; I fully expect it to 
be 
running when gasoline is declared an illegal substance.  But I rarely take the 
engine over 3,000 rpm, and then only for short bursts of acceleration when 
merging into traffic and so on.  If your job requires you to cover 100+ miles 
each day, and you have to travel at 70 mph or more to maintain a schedule, I'd 
say you're driving the wrong kind of vehicle.

While I do not drive my Series III as much as I used to, for the first ten 
years of its life it was my only vehicle, and was driven every single day.  In 
addition to daily driving, I used it for long trips to the Yukon, British 
Columbia, and Montana.  Much of this was highway driving, but I kept the engine 
to 
3,000 rpm which, with the overdrive, gave me between 50 and 55 mph.  Sure, 
everything on the road passed me, but I never had any problems with the vehicle 
at 
all until it finally burned an exhaust valve at 125K miles.  Since the 2.25 
engine has a reputation for burning exhaust valves at 80K miles or less, I 
considered myself fortunate.  I know you're having problems with an intake 
valve, but considering the way you're using the vehicle, you should consider 
yourself lucky that you're not burning the pistons (something the 2.6 NADA 
six-cylinder engine had a reputation for doing when driven at all hard).

In my opinion, I think as long as you drive your Series the way you're driving 
it, you're going to have problems.  I'm sure you don't agree with me, but I 
think you're simply asking too much of the hardware.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 10:12:48 -0800
Subject: Re: babe magnets

Cars are personality statements.  There is a large female population 
segment who are country girls and prefer their friends and potential 
mates to share this trait.

The Sales manager at Land Rover San Jose once told me that his dealership 
was selling more D90s to women then to men.  Interestingly enough he said 
that most men come in to look at the Defenders & drive away in a new 
Discovery or Range ROver.  When A woman came in for a Defender that is 
what she drove away in.  When I look at people driving the common CJ or 
Wrangler jeeps I see a very high percentage of them are women.

I think a series, 90 or 110 could be a very effective "babe" magnet if 
you fish in locations that women who think of themselves as country girls 
are more apt to hang out.

Put your bait where the fish are and remember different varities of fish 
prefer different kinds of bait.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 09:38:46 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: easy choice for Simon 

>If you like plastic that falls apart, pieces blocking the airflow from the 
>front vents, and can't shift a real transmission, then by all means buy the 
>POS '72 series III.  

>If you want a real rover, buy the '70 series IIa.  You can tell I have no 
>bias against the series III.

I would have to agree, although this SIII bashing has got to stop. I have had 
no problems with plastic bits on mine. I heard later ones had a plastic gear 
lever that kept breaking, but mine is all metal. As for the dash vents, it does 
pay to swap out the upper fascia with one from post '73 that has the holes cut 
out for the air vents. I don't know about the gearbox issue, I've driven the 
non-synchro box, and it isn't really that much different. My SIII box works 
much better if I double clutch on the down shift. I also like being able to 
shift into first while going down a steep hill. Doubt that can be done by most 
of you with non-synch boxes. If (er, ok, when) my SIII box goes, I will 
probably put in a 5-speed. 
If I had to do it over again i would look for a IIa with headlights in the 
grille. But I like my SIII just fine. 
All you SIII bashers are full of yourselves. I'll pit greenHELL against any one 
of em, anytime...

heh heh 
later
daveb

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Matthew J. Clement" <matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:52:32 -0000
Subject: Last chance to order UK plates before Xmas
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Several people from this mailing list have been in touch to order =
UK-style number plates in time for Christmas.  With the heavy Christmas =
mail rush, you'll need to order in the next few days if you want to =
receive your plates in time for Christmas.

Prices for the plates start at $19.95 for a modern-style, plastic plate =
and $24.95 for traditional silver-on-black stamped aluminium plates.  =
Lettering/numbering on the plates is your choice, and there is an =
information guide on my website to help you pick an appropriate number =
if you are going for authenticity.  All of the plates can be provided in =
a number of sizes and shapes as well, including the modern oblong design =
or the more traditional square design (US-sized plates and motorcycle =
plates also available).

[spamkill: [Cc]redit [Cc]ard input: %s]	 I am now able to offer secure online 
ordering and credit card facilities =
[spamkill: [Cc]redit [Cc]ard input: %s]	 credit card

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From: Malcolm Woodruff <kap08@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:22:02 -0800
Subject: PKV

Frank Elson may be interested to know that the subject of the occasional 
missing V8 is B790 PKV. A Brown and limestone CSW. Last night by chance 
it was parked on the verge at Beaulieu in front of B709 PKV a red CSW. 
Small world!

Malcolm Woodruff

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 14:25:22 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: babe magnets 

>Put your bait where the fish are and remember different varities of fish 
>prefer different kinds of bait.

Please, do we have to use *fish* for the analogy?...ugh...

perish the thought
dave

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 14:27:29 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: babe magnets/ALAN 

>Or was it perhaps that she recognized you from your picture on a certain T-Shir
>she had seen somewhere???

Grunties?

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 14:32:49 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: babe magnets 

>Considering I've had attractive women alone in cars smiling and waving at me 
>on the highway, I agree on the concept that an LR may help one be more 
>attractive...

>...'cause God knows it ain't my smiling face that's attracting 'em.

                    >aj"Warthogs R' Us"r

Just wait until you get Lucy the Range Rover on the road. You will have to 
fight them off with a stick!

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 14:39:33 -0500
Subject: Re: babe magnets 

> Summertime, 88", no top, downtown Ottawa in the market area...  It 
>works...)

Hmmm....Dixon with no top in an 88? I think they would all run the opposite 
direction...

later
dave

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From: F.Lankenau@t-online.de (Dirk Lankenau)
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:35:31 +0100
Subject: Lankenau@Bigfoot.com

please ad my e-mail adress given above to your mailing list.
Best Regards
Dirk Lankenau

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From: Shaun Oriold <soriold@worldchat.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:29:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Can I sue?

You cannot sue just because your diff. is now not working.  As it has been
stated you can complain and get the repair for free.- a letter to the head of
ford saying you will never buy a ford product again as well as dispel your
friends, family and colleagues should to do the trick.   To sue (and win) you
would need to have been injured because of negligence on behalf of the
delinquent who diagnosed the problem. or if you miss work you could sue for
damages.

Shaun

Neil Brownlee wrote:

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:04:00 -0800

Oh! sorry, a moment of inattention (actually its more like a lifetime). I 
took mine to MOMA here in ABQ and they rebuilt it and calibrated it in 
accordance with the wheel/tire radius and number of cable turns per mile. 
They charged $65 for that and they also fabricated a new cable using my old 
ends (these are a little special) for $40. I also had to replace the drive 
gear in the transfer case because the square hole in the old one was worn 
round. I got a used one from RN for $29. I guess I could have pulled the 
speedo apart and messed around with it trying to guess what was wrong but 
my fingers are not made for that kind of work. I know my (many) 
limitations. 
     
     Clinton

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:20:00 -0800
Subject: Peugeot Diesels

     If the other Peugeot diesels are anything like that engine, just get 
     it.
     
     OK.  I can add that to the list of glowing endorsements.
     
     BTW, what torque setting should I set the bolts on my shackles to?  
     And, should I keep my freewheeling hubs or not.....?   8>)
     
     Clinton

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From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:27:00 -0800
Subject: auto boxes and lockups

     Speaking of torque convertor lockups for the ZF tranny and others in 
     high speed high gear.  Why can't one have the same thing for low 
     speed/low gear to eliminate slippage in the torque convertor for hill 
     descents?  Perhaps the problem would be that the engine could stall 
     out if the speed gets too low?  Auto boxes are greek to me.  All I 
     know is that if I ever buy a disco or rangie, it is going to have that 
     ZF transmission.
     
     Gee, I wonder if they still use hydrogen.......
     
     Clinton

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 04:51:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

The SDI has a Borg Warner 65 auto box, which is essentially the same as the
66 which is in Jags and BMW`s

> Thanks to everyone who responded, re: early Range Rover 3 speed
> autos.  Now I'm onto a good thing perhaps I can glean the following;
> How did they attach it to the transfer case (I know... bolts), and
> which transfer case did they use?  If it is an LT95 effort then there
> must have been an adaptor plate?
> And...  What auto 'box did they use in a Rover SD1?
> And...  Is there a 4 speed auto 'box that will fit in the same hole as
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> And...  Is there a 4 speed auto 'box that will fit in the same hole as
> the Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte, using the same mountings?

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 05:06:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Occassional Missing V8

And did you make sure that #5 and #7 are not next to each other, Put #3 between
them or you will get an induced miss fire.

> Every so often when I go to start my 83 RR nothing happens. I open the hood
> (bonnet) and find that the engine has gone missing - empty space - nada. If I
> close the hood and wait ten minutes or so it has reappeared and all is well.
> It doesnt seem to matter if the engines was hot or cold. Is there some
> localized problem with the time space continuum between the radiator and the
> bellhousing? Can I sue LRNA for this? I know I bought it (well) used and its
> grey market and all, but come on, this kind of defect is just unacceptable. I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> completely cured the problem. Also be sure that they are separated from each
> other and the rocker covers by using plastic separators. Cheers, Andy Blackley

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From: Malcolm Woodruff <kap08@dial.pipex.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:15:10 -0800
Subject: LPG Series 3 Conversion

David
We converted our V8 110 at Easter it was so bad we had it taken out again 
and then a new conversion by a different company in July. We find that we 
get about 15% less mpg with gas. I think that fuel injection vehicles do 
better but this is typical with carburettors. Still it runs quieter, 
starts better in the morning and is cheaper. It is however much less 
forgiving in terms of timing etc. What engine have you got and whose 
conversion kit did you use?

Malcolm Woodruff

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 98 17:23:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Peugeot Diesels 

     

     >BTW, what torque setting should I set the bolts on my shackles to?  
     >And, should I keep my freewheeling hubs or not.....?   8>)

torque your freewheeling shackle bolts when you encounter rough terrain, 
otherwise torque your busings once every 500 miles or you will experience 
premature wear. (and the truck might too). Lock your shackles to prevent 
premature failure of the steering kingpins.

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From: Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen@allina.com>
Date: Tue,  8 Dec 98 16:37:52 PST
Subject: Stalling

My new as of 5 wk ago 1961 SWB was on the way to the storage place 
one cold (20F) morning.  After starting fine and running for about 3 
miles, it was sputtering and bucking at full throttle.  Once I 
backed off, the motor smoothed out.  This got progressively worse 
over the next mile with stuttering and bucking at lower rpm's.  I 
tried some Iso-Heet.  It was better then got worse. I got more gas 
(gauge and odometer don't work).  -took 10.5 gallons!!!  I thought I 
was just out of gas and took off... Same stuttering and bucking at 
even lower rpm's.  I eventually stalled out and would not start.  
After being towed, it started again and then stalled at high revs. 
The idle was not rough.

I tried it later that day with the temp about 40F- same problem.  

I have an excellent theory from a local Roverhead and the Rovers North phone 
guy-  The 3 yr old 
Weber carb is icing up and no air gets in.  Other info:  There is also a 
replacement electric 
fuel pump and an in line filter.  Also there is no breather from the valve 
cover to the carb.

Any other theories to this sputter/buck???

-Rik
Name: Garrick Brett Olsen
E-mail: Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen@allina.com>
Date: 12/8/98
Time: 04:37:52 PM

This message was sent by Chameleon 

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:14:40 -0700

Marin, as usual a very well thought out response, but I do question a few
of your numbers...

>I would agree with the folks who say the cause of your problem is driving
>it at 70+
> mph.

I agree that 70 is a bit much, especially with 10" drums all round and
knackered swivels (oh, wait, I'm talking about SId here)

>The redline of the engine is 4,250 rpm.  To get 70 mph out of it, even
>with an
>overdrive, you're going to be pretty darn close to the redline, maybe
>4,000 rpm
>or so.

Nah, at 70 with 7.5x16's and OD (which he surely has if he's going 70!),
we're talking just a bit over 3000 RPMS or about 70% into the rev range.
This shouldn't be a problem. Even with 30x9.5R15's, he'd only be turning
3300 RPM or so.

>If you're running taller tires, that will reduce the rpm needed but it
>will increase the amount of work the engine needs to do to maintain that
>speed,
>which will increase the heat generated by the engine.

Don't know enough to comment on this one, though it does make sense.

>Regardless, you're
>asking an agricultural engine designed as a slow-revving diesel in the late
>'50s to do the work of a modern, lightweight, high-revving engine of
>today.  (I >assume you are aware that the petrol 2.25 was derived from the
>2.25 diesel, which
>actually came first.)

An excellent point, although the 2.25 petrol actually came first (1958,
1962 for the 2.25 diesel), designed around the 2.0 diesel.

>Actually, I'm amazed you're getting as much as two years out of your
>valves if
>that's the way you're using the vehicle.  The Series Land Rovers were all
>designed during a time of relatively low road speeds; continuous fast driving
>on motorways or freeways was not part of the design criteria.  A cruising
>speed
>of 45-50 mph was considered just fine by the Land Rover (and Jeep, too, back
>then) engineers.

Makes me a bit worried since I'll be driving at (relatively) high speeds
for about 5000-6000 miles per year in Sidney.

>But I rarely take the engine over 3,000 rpm, and then only for short
>bursts of >acceleration when merging into traffic and so on. If your job
>requires you to cover >100+ miles each day, and you have to travel at 70
>mph or more to maintain a schedule, >I'd say you're driving the wrong kind
>of vehicle.

In the S**B circles I used to run in, it was often said that -not-
consistently running the engine up towards the redline could be harmful for
its health. Of course, these were higher revving 16v engines, and perhaps
they were more prone to cylinder wall glazing than our beasties. One last
note, weren't earlier 2.25's like the one presumably in the suspect SII
known to be weaker in the cooling department? Maybe he should be looking
for a later engine out of a IIa.

-joseph and sidney (doesn't even have hardened seats, yet...)
missoula, mt

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:27:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Stalling

Take the top off the carb and clean all the jets and check the float level.
John and Muddy

Garrick Brett Olsen wrote:

> My new as of 5 wk ago 1961 SWB was on the way to the storage place
> one cold (20F) morning.  After starting fine and running for about 3
> miles, it was sputtering and bucking at full throttle.  Once I
> backed off, the motor smoothed out.  This got progressively worse
> over the next mile with stuttering and bucking at lower rpm's.  I
> tried some Iso-Heet.  It was better then got worse. I got more gas
> (gauge and odometer don't work).  -took 10.5 gallons!!!  I thought I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 25 lines)]
> Date: 12/8/98
> Time: 04:37:52 P

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:49:41 -0500
Subject: Re:petrol by the pound

<< I thought they only put 'pounds' of fuel in planes - you should be 
using
litres (or gallons) - that could be the problem (-: >>

 British Airways & Qantas refuel by the Kilo & pay in US Dollars. As 
opposed to any of the many other less valuable "Dollars".

 Paul

 Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:12

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:49:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Chrysler 727 Torqueflyte

<<  What auto 'box did they use in a Rover SD1? >>

 Borg Warner Model 65 in the early ones (Solihull built), and a GM 
"Strasbourg" in the later ones ( Cowley built).
 
 The later SD1 is a far better built vehicle. (I had one of each!)

 Paul

 Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:29

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:41:15 -0000
Subject: Re: New Landies (Girlfriends)

Oh yes.... (VERY BIG GRIN BACK!!!!!)

mind you, when she leaned over the table.........
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:10:56 -0000
Subject: Re: who's mad?

Simon,
I don't see your problem. Get 'em both, or can't your wife drive?

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:14:36 -0000
Subject: Re: PKV

Malcolm,
we surely must get a club going one day, I know of four other PKVs....
Seems like the two you mentioned may have come from the same batch as mine.
In case you don't know the history I was told that in 1984, when the Ninety
was announced the 100 also got the wind-up windows.
All the 1983 vehicles with the sliding windows (I've heard figures from 12
to 20) still hanging around in showrooms were bought back by Land Rover,
registered (hence the Land Rover PKV number ) and sold as a bunch through
Bristol Street Motors.
 If you are at Billing next year let's get 'em together for a pic...

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:19:16 -0000
Subject: Re: Peugeot Diesels 

and don't forget you MUST use grease (or oil) in the swivel housings

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+            
     I !__|  [_]|_\___   
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV 
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:36:59
Subject: BRAKES

>Another quick Master Cylinder question:
>The instructions recommend using some Girling Brake grease on the end cap
>seal and the seals.
>The only Girling brake grease I have comes in a yellow tube, is green and is
>recommended for mechanical parts such as the end of shoes... specifically
>"not for parts in contact with brake fluid"  Is there an alternative?  Is is
>necessary?

Charles, Charles, you need some of the silicon paste that comes in a plain
white tube from Rovers North. You may also find it at the parts store. Long
ago when one purchased master, wheel and slave cylinder kits there would be
a small tube of said grease, but alas that has not been the case for
sometime now.

Jim Wolf

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:42:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mighty Joe Young!

>Wow!  Just saw a preview last night for the new Disney flick "Mighty Joe
>Young."  They showed no less than SIX Land Rovers in the preview!  Three
>109s, two 88s and a IIB or a 101 way in the background.  This is gonna
>be quite a movie for us Rover-geeks with no lives!
>One bad note, they did show the gorilla smashing and knocking over a
>109" that was chasing him.  Oh well . . . :)

That's cool, I suppose, but I don't think I can stomach any Di&^%$y flicks,
despite the presence of several of our lovley friends.  IMHO - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:55:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: BRAKES

Jim Wolf wrote...
>Charles, Charles, you need some of the silicon paste that comes in a plain
>white tube from Rovers North. You may also find it at the parts store. Long
>ago when one purchased master, wheel and slave cylinder kits there would be
>a small tube of said grease, but alas that has not been the case for
>sometime now.

Hi Guys - Every time I order a brake rebuild kit from RN it comes with a
packet of Girling red brake grease.  Once you've ordered enough brake
rebuild kits (What? Didn't work the first time?)  you'll have a few of
those cute little tin packets sitting around  ;  )

Should you really be smearing silley-cone paste near your nice new aluminum
cylinders?!

Bye - P

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:48:47
Subject: posting

>>can someone please mail me a primer on how to properly compose a note to
>>the list
>Were a fairly light hearted bunch out here - unless you bring up issues like;
>grease vs. oil in the hubs or swivels - or some other hotly debated topic.
>>and how to properly reply to another's post without annoying
>>list members/receiving my posts back?
>Didn't P sombody O already did you?!     ;  )
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Didn't P sombody O already did you?!     ;  )
>Anyway - hellos and welcomes - Peter

Peter how could you leave out the "LOCKING FRONT HUBS'?

Jim Wolf

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:34:54 -0500 (EST)

Recently - We've had a few questions about how to post...
Here is what to do...

Don't include a subject heading - Those just like, suck.

Exclaim things in big caps when you've got a FACT we all should know, like;

YO, YOUS ALL GOT TO LEAVE THEM FRONT FREEWHELLIN' HUBS UNLOCKED!

and...

HEY!  IF YOU DON'T TORQUE THOSE GOD DAMN SHACKLE BOLTS SOO TIGHT THAT THEY
SNAP OFF - YOU'LL BE IN TROUBLE OUT ON THE F-ING RUBY-CON!

and...

ROVER RECCOMENDED, LIKE BACK IN THE 50'S, THAT ONLY STAINLESS FASTENERS
SHOULD BE USED WITH Al PANELS - YOU DUMBASSES!
THE ONLY REASON THEY DIDN'T IS BECAUSE IT WAS USED UP IN WWII!

and...

DIFFS MUST BE PACKED WITH GREASE!  HUBS WITH 90Wt!  YOU'VE ALL GOT IT ALL
BACKWARDS!

and...

WHY DO YOU ALL DRINK GUINESS?  THAT STUFF TASTES LIKE ASPHALT!

Peter -
[  I've no f-ing idea about my shackle torque settings!
Alls I can say is it starts,
gets me there,
gets me home,
usually,
unless I've had too much Guiness  ]
- Kaskan

but maybe I should really get my freewheel grease/oil mix guinessed to spec.

BTW - IIA are better - none o' those cheapo little plastic bits o' $h!t
Just Kidding...  Just Kidding...      :  )

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 05:18:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Stalling

Garrick Brett Olsen wrote:

> Any other theories to this sputter/buck???

How 'bout that your fuel line from the tank to the pump to the filter to
the carb is shot?
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:22:22 EST
Subject: Re: Babes did 11a's

In a message dated 98-12-10 09:29:12 EST, you write:

      Good luck with the diminutive beast, and whatever you do, for god's 
      sake, DO NOT EVER ask the list about schackle torques...
      
      Cheers,
      
      Cole Stage, Hefelump herder
      IIa ambulance >>

Or how to spell shackle.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:35:06 EST
Subject: Re: babe magnets

In a message dated 98-12-10 10:48:36 EST, you write:

 Markus asks if she was waving because my LR was on fire.... or for sympathy
 reasons...
  >>
Oh no a pity wave! I hate it when that happens.

Bill Lawrence

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:21:24
Subject: Re: Side curtains forever!!!

	Now this guy is a real girlie man.  Roll up windows, next thing he'll be
trying is power steering and an automatic!!!!!
	Truthfully, roll up windows are greatly over rated and certainly not 
worth
the money to fix.  The slider's in the series keep the wind off the side of
your head and not blowing into your face while providing very adequate
ventilation.  Roll up windows never seem to have a position that provides a
balance between ventilation and wind blast.  I say that living in Kona
where a cold winter day is 75 degrees, by the way.
	If you really want a feeling of open air living with the top on, simply
remove the windows in your rover.  Not recommended in Michigan this time of
year, however. 
	If you want a condemnation of roll up windows, look what happened to
British Sports Cars when they abandoned side curtains, MGB/TR4, absolutely
no soul.
	Aloha Peter 

>Owner of an SIII and a Triumph with roll-up windows.
>(And tired of SGS-suffering cretins who seem to think I'm not
> good enough to be in their club(s) because I have syncros
> and/or no sidecurtains.)

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From: Skhar1927@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:35:28 EST
Subject: who's mad

frank elson didn't see the problem:  buy both?   if i could i would!!! one
will be quite enough, im sure.

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From: Skhar1927@aol.com
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:39:04 EST
Subject: who's mad

frank elson wanted to know if my wife can drive a stick (standard
transmission, that is).  She can't. (drive a manual shifted transmission that
is).  THAT is the beauty of the whole thing.  I get a great vehicle that will
keep me occupied when I have my daily 15 minutes of free time, and SHE CANT
DRIVE IT(the rover, that is).

simon harding.  still pining for my rover, leaning toward series IIa. but need
to buy something significant for the wife first.

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:14:34 +0800 (SGT)
Subject: test

Has anyone heard of any updates on the grill badges?
Thanks
Smitty

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:25:56 -0000
Subject: Re: Burnt No. 4 Intake

I've just order from the local LR dealer the correct stat. It 
costs 7GBP so it better work. So far this mucking around 
has cost me two stats. from Paddocks and one stat. 
from a local factors - I'm starting a nice little collection! 
Anyway LR assure me that they can supply the correct 
one but it won't be here until Monday.

If I'd known then what I now now I would have got the 
alternative housing and used the newer type. Anyway if 
the part from LR works then that's good enough for me - 
the esisting ones been on for 27 years so if the new one 
lasts as long I won't worry!

Thanks...

On 10 Dec 98, at 12:12, Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus. wrote:

> After more thought, it seems like the readings might be caused by the lack of 
a
> blanking skirt. The ttemperature sensor is just below that area, so if coolant
> isn't exchanging properly with the radiator that might be a hot spot.
> If you can find it, the later thermostat housing and top (the iron bit that 
the
> bypass hose neck bolts to and the hose outlet that bolts above that) from a
> later Rover 2.25 will swap in exactly and work perfectly. That's what I've 
done
> to 2 earlier motors because of this paucity of early alcohol thermostats.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> might work - that's the bit that got modified to work with the newer-type
> thermostat.

Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245

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