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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 15:50:40 +0200
Subject: Re: Petrol price

In sunny SA our 93 octane works out at $1.52 per gallon, which is a
total rip given that the govt taxes account for about half of that.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 98 06:28:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing a new distributor

A straight distributor swap is easy if you do not turn the engine when 
there is no distributor in place.

Remove the cap with the wires will attached to the plugs & move it aside
>.
Note where the vacume diaphram is is relation to it's surroundings and 
where the rotor points (make a drawing, take a poloriod, take a digital 
image or whatever)

Loosen the pinch bole at the clamp (It is probably bent so now would be a 
good time to replace it).   Disconnect the wire from the coil and the 
vacume advance line from the carb.

Pull the old distributor out.  

Hold the new distributor (minus cap) over the hole with the diaphram and 
rotor  pointing in the directions that the old one was pointing prior to 
removal.  Lower it into place and line the distributor body as best as 
you can to the old location.

Reconnect everything and move the spark plug wires over to the new cap 
one at a time, o better yet replace them with new ones using the existing 
wires as a model.

Time the distributor the way you normally do.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 98 06:32:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Petrol price

According to National Public Radio, the national average for unleaded 
petrol is now $0.97/gal.

Still at $1.26 in Aptos Calif.
;>Down to .85 in Evergreen, CO
;>> Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@msn.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:28:37 -0000
Subject: Re: Petrol price

Ha! You lot want to live here in the UK then...it's 69-72 pence a LITRE, for
unleaded and upto 80 pence a litre for leaded...AND THAT IS MORE TAX THAN
ANYTHING ELSE!!!! Just work out how much that is for a gallon in your own
currency!!!!!

Neil

Pennyless in the UK!

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From: "Kevin and Crew" <willeys@cyberus.ca>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 12:27:25 -0500
Subject: the price of gas
	charset="iso-8859-1"

42.8 canadian cents a litre in ottawa. that would be roughly 30 cents =
american or 20 pence uk?

Kevin Willey
1996 disko (edith),
1973 lightwieght,
1987 Merlin, 1998 True North soft tail(full boing)
Hummers hum but Land Rovers know the words !

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From: "C. Marin Faure" <faurecm@halcyon.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 10:13:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel and Aluminum

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 10:58:54
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel and Aluminum

	>Stainless is the fastener of choice for aluminum in the marine
environment.  type 304 and 316 fasteners are commonly used in aluminum
masts and the masts last for decades.

Your might be correct in saying that stainless steel is relatively close on
the Galvanic chart to the steel used in the Land Rover's frame and other
steel component, depending on the actual makeup of the steel used by Land
Rover and the specific alloy of the stainless steel you're using.  However,
the element you left out in your comment about the use of stainless and
aluminum on boats is that the major metal components of a boat are supposed
to be electrically bonded, or "hooked" to a sacrifical piece of metal,
generally one or more zinc plates mounted on the outside of the hull.  I
have four on my Grand Banks, two "license plate" zincs on the transom and
two on each of the stainless steel prop shafts. Whithout these sacrificial
zincs, expensive and vital components on a boat like the rudder(s),
bearings, through-hull fittings, etc., will begin to corrode away due to
electrolysis.

There is no sacrifical zink on a vehicle.  As aluminum is at near the
bottom of the Galvanic chart, it will become the sacrificial metal.  At the
risk of sounding like a broken record, if you use stainless steel fasteners
or components on a Land Rover and if an electrolyte (a conductor that could
be as simple as damp dirt depending on the chemicals and salts in the dirt)
is present, a current will flow between the stainless steel and the
aluminum, and the aluminum will lose mass (corrode) over time.  Depending
on the character of the electrolyte, the mass loss of the aluminum may be
very slow or very fast.

The mild steel used in a Land Rover's frame and other structural parts is
not as high up the chart as stainless steel, so the galvanic reaction
between it and the aluminum panels won't be as great, although they will
occur.  Insulating stainless steel fasteners or components like window
channels from the steel substructure using nylon washers doesn't really
accomplish much, as there will still be metal-to-metal contact through the
bolt or screw itself.

As I've said before, I've seen immensly expensive damage done to
floatplanes because the owners got tired of replacing rusting, cad-plated
fasteners and fittings and thought they'd be clever by replacing them with
stainless steel.  In one case, the damage occured in less than a year, and
required tens of thousands of dollars worth of aluminum skin replacement.
Understand that the environment a vehicle lives in is far less harsh than
the environment in which a floatplane lives in terms of corrosion.  But if
you live in an area where road salt is used, or near an ocean where there
is lots of salt in the air, or you routinely get your vehicle muddy and you
live in a damp area like Seattle, using stainless steel on your Land Rover
will greatly increase the risk of corrosion damage.

  We built and launched our Westsail
32 in 1974.  We sailed the boat to the South Pacific and around the
Hawaiian Islands until we sold it in 1984.  The new owner has sailed the
boat to the trust territories, Australia, NZ, and back through Polynesia.
All of this with the same fasteners in the 24 year old mast.  The mast was
painted when new and the fasteners were installed with 'never seize' and
any bronze fittings like winch bases had an insulating gasket.  Before the
new buyer went on their cruise, they stripped the mast and repainted it but
the fasteners were still in good condition and had not eaten the aluminum
in the mast.  Most of these fasteners were tapped into the aluminum and all
the hardware like halyard sheave axles were stainless and resting directly
on the aluminum without any insulating medium.  The entire weight of the
rig at the base was resting on a 1+" stainless axle pin that allowed the
mast to pivot, by the way.
	Aircraft aluminum alloys may be different than boat alloys but I
wouldn't
be that concerned about stainless fasteners eating up the rover.  If you
look at the Galvanic tables, I think you will find that stainless steel is
pretty damn close to plain steel.  If memory serves me right, its only a
step or two removed.  Having said that, an insulating layer under any
fastener against Aluminum is a good idea.  I have seen rover aluminum
disappear completely from behind good but rusty steel plates and fasteners
on a generally very corroded rover.  The paint had broken down and allowed
direct contact in a salty environment.  For those of you going through a
rebuild, put some inert material like vinyl window material or some other
form of thin plastic like electrical tape under the washers of fasteners or
the body mounts on the rear cross member and any other place that you have
direct contact with the aluminum.  An ounce of protection, especially if
you live in the salty north, will go a long way to keeping the aluminum
intact long after the steel parts have been eaten by the rustermite.
	Marin, we were in your fair city over Thanksgiving.  Those people that
say
its rainy and overcast in Seattle are liars.  We had partly cloudy
conditions and it was near 50 most every day and the sun came out quite
often.  Of course you had near hurricane winds and torrential rains up
until the day we arrived and it was gray and rainy as we drove out to the
airport on Sunday when we left but that was probably just a momentary break
in the usual tropical, sunny winter in Seattle.

________________________
C. Marin Faure
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE
   Seattle, WA

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 14:16:05 EST
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel and Aluminum

A couple of observations:

1 - I thought the primary reason boats were so prone to galvanic corrosion was
that they are emersed in a saline or otherwise conductive solution. Therefore
the less noble zink is carried through the electrolyte to the earth source and
"plates" it.

2 - What about a "bonded" electrical system on a Land-Rover? That is, simply
not using the body/chassis components as earth but instead wire grounding
everything back to the battery, thus avoiding electrical currents flowing
between dissimilar metals in the first place?

3 - Also, would it help to use plastic/vinyl washers? I saw a restored Series
II where the owner had cut gaskets out of old tupperware containers to
insulate the door hinges from the birmabright body panels.

Any of this make any sense?

Ed Bailey
66 SIIa 88
(Usually lost) Somewhere in East Tennessee

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:35:49 -0600
Subject: Speedometer vs cable gone funky

Have had a interesting problem.  For awhile I would occacionally hear a
intermittent brief vacuum leak kind of sound coming from the area of the
middle of my firewall.  No associated symptoms such as loss of speed or
power and it would last less than a second.

The other day the intermittent sound increased in frequency and then I had a
a second wierd noise at 50 mph with no loss of power or speed.  Shut
everything down and it resolved.  Reoocured again at about 50 mph and I
noticed speedometer was reading 70 mph ( I had slowed down) and then it
stopped and speedometer read normal again.

Whew.  Now I knew it was with the speedometer/odometer/cable assembly

I am thinking it is probably the speedometer itself as I can't figure how a
bad speedometer cable would cause the speedometer to overread velocity while
causing the noise.

Any ideas?

It is still occuring and seems to be happening more frequently but only when
I am going faster than 50 mph.

Cwolfe

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:15:22 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer vs cable gone funky

Having just disassembled two speedos (in order to make 1 good one for my
new 16" wheels), I would guess that some bit of foreign matter has found
its way into your cup and magnet. When the bit gets lodged between the two
the speedo would suddenly read very high as the tension of the little
spring is quickly overcome. When everything stops spinning, the bit falls
back down only to be churned back up at some other point in time. This is
just a guess, but a quick disassmebly and cleaning couldn't hurt! I can't
hink of any way a bad cable could make the reading -high-. Good luck!

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt (where the snow's missed us again, drats!)

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:24:08 +0100
Subject: Re: Haynes manuals

>Who wants my overdrive?

Oh, yes! But I'll sure like the fuelprices. You'll pay about 5 times more 
money for the gallon.....

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
Systemsmanager Academie Minerva Groningen

0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:27:37 +0100
Subject: Re: Haynes mauals

>Seems to be a lot of post on the Haynes manuals lately. They are not very
>good, full of errors, the real Rover one is worth the extra money.

Well, I use both. And full of errors.... some, but most of the time the 
Haynes is easier to read and understand. Especialy with the pictures.

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
Systemsmanager Academie Minerva Groningen

0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:31:18 +0100
Subject: Re: Petrol price ,DOWN TO 3.96US$/gal (3.78liters)!

This is Norway,

Would you believe RR 3.9?

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:45:02 EST
Subject: Re: Speedometer

Judging from the number of posts regarding speedometers, it sounds like not
very many of them work properly. I've recently been involved in redoing the
electrical system on my 2A and have just about decided to do away with the
speedo altogether. The odometer reads 56000 some odd miles as it has for
several years and the speedo fluxuates between 40 and 60 no matter how fast I
am going. What I was thinking, what about one of those 4000 rpm tachs and an
hour meter (for determining oil change, etc.)? I don't think the Millennium
Falcon is inclined to exceed the speed limit in most places anyway and if it
did, I'm not sure if I could ever get it to stop.  While the GPS speed
function is based on averages, I nonetheless think it is more reliable than
the LR speedo and It shouldn't be too difficult to make a simple table to
correlate rpm to speed.

What do you think? I know this may not please the purists, but I was thinking
of redesigning the instrument panel with a tach, an hour meter, voltmeter, oil
pressure and water temp using the larger (3") guages that are easier on older
eyes and yet have a rover-like apperarance. Oil pressure and water temp would
also have idiot lights and audio signals such as are used on boats.  I would
relocate the high-beam indicator to someplace where I could see it. 

What do you think?

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88 Millennium Falcon
(Usually lost) Somewhere in East Tennessee

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:48:35 EST
Subject: Kansas City, here I come

Hi folks,
I'll be headed out to KS this spring for a six week course at Ft. Leavenworth.
Bren Workman's headed out there in January for same course; I'll be starting
23 Feb.  Any list members vic. KC/ Ft. Leavenworth?

Bill Rice
SIIA 109SW, Mrs. Merdle

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 11:15:18
Subject: Re: Speedometer

	Never had a problem with the speedo just the cables that drive them.  
The
speedo's are pretty reliable especially when you consider than most are
working on the second or even third 6 figures and 30 or more years of abuse
and neglect.  I've driven for years without a speedometer because of a
broken cable and survived nicely.  If it was a choice of fixing the
speedometer or buying a tach, I'd opt for the tach.  That is not to say
that fixing a malfunctioning speedometer is a waste of money, however.

	Odometers sure are handy when the fuel gauge doesn't work, however.

Aloha Peter
>Judging from the number of posts regarding speedometers, it sounds like not
>very many of them work properly. 

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From: Robert McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 16:58:40 -0500
Subject: speedometer-odometer

I bought  my 1967 diesel Suzy in 1973, the odometer read 83,149 miles. She
still reads 83,149 miles on the odometer. With a diesel you have a low fuel
light to warn you when the tank is getting low, never have run out. Never
had a speeding ticket, though I was pulled over by the police one sat.
afternoon when there were 5 land-rover owners (we had been out looking at a
old l/r that was for sale) in the vehicle. We had just left the local
market about 1 1/2 miles from my house and everyone had just opened an ale
when the lights flashed on. Seems that the officer was concerned that "my
rear back-up lights were on" as I was going down the road. In fact, they
were, as I had put my back-up lights on a toggle switch and had failed to
switch them off. Since there was a simple explanation,  we were soon
underway again with smiles on our faces. Oh..... uh... by the way, one of
the land-rover  owners with us was also an off-duty officer. please
no-flamers for driving with having just opened a brewski, the last time i
was intoxicated while driving was 1974.

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:01:42 +1000
Subject: Re: costs of fuel - Melbourne

Diesel is currently about 68c per litre and unleaded petrol about 61c per
litre (although a boke here got it for 58.9 last week) - this is about
normal for diesel but very cheap for unleaded

I was starting to cry when reading the USA prices - than goodness for that
UK price to help me realize things aren't all that bad :-)

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <conseitl@sprint.ca>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:52:02 -0400
Subject: Close Call

Winters first storm blew through here today leaving a trail of snow and ice
covered roads. My wife, driving her '91 Rangie in the snow for the first
time, called from her cell phone and told me that it was very slippery and
that cars were off the road everywhere. Well, my kinda weather, so I jump
in the beast and head out in search of the slippery stuff.I met up with her
about 10 miles up the road and started to follow her. About a mile later I
watched as she went around a corner of ice and lost it!!!  =:-O She did a
360 and then slid around again and ended up sideways in front of me. There
was another 4x4 inbetween us, and he tried to avoid ramming into the side
of her, but it was too slippery to stop. So there we were, I'm sliding,
he's sliding, she's waiting. BUT!, then I see her wheels spinning in
reverse and slowly creeps out of the path of us as we slide past her!! I
figure she would be all stressed out by now, but she manages to get away
from the ditch and carry on. A minute later she's on the phone to me and
says" DID YOU SEE THAT GUY, CAN'T ANYONE STAY OUTTA MY WAY??!!" Oh well, no
need to comfort her! That guy doesn't really know how lucky he was!

Cheers !!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"
1991 Rangie (Hers)

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 20:58:34
Subject: spray putty?

I have been looking over the LRO restoration guide for steering wheels.
They list three products to use. 1/ PC-7, 2/ Eastwoods engine paint, 3/
spray putty.
What is spray putty in USA terms? I will most probably just wrap the outter
part with bike handle bar wrap, but I need to fix some cracks first etc.
Anyone have any ideas?

Jim Wolf

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:10:28 EST
Subject: Re: Speedometer vs cable gone funky

In a message dated 98-12-06 14:40:46 EST, you write:

 
 Have had a interesting problem.  For awhile I would occacionally hear a
 intermittent brief vacuum leak kind of sound coming from the area of the
 middle of my firewall.  No associated symptoms such as loss of speed or
 power and it would last less than a second.
 
 The other day the intermittent sound increased in frequency and then I had a
 a second wierd noise at 50 mph with no loss of power or speed.  Shut
 everything down and it resolved.  Reoocured again at about 50 mph and I
 noticed speedometer was reading 70 mph ( I had slowed down) and then it
 stopped and speedometer read normal again.
 
 Whew.  Now I knew it was with the speedometer/odometer/cable assembly
 
 I am thinking it is probably the speedometer itself as I can't figure how a
 bad speedometer cable would cause the speedometer to overread velocity while
 causing the noise.
 
 Any ideas?
 
 It is still occuring and seems to be happening more frequently but only when
 I am going faster than 50 mph.
 
 Cwolfe >>

This also happened to my speedo. I had it repaired by MOMA (505) 766-6661. It
now works perfectly.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

 

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 18:31:12 -0700
Subject: Re: Speedometer (and GPS)

At 03:45 PM 06/12/98 EST, IBEdwardp@aol.com, wrote

 While the GPS speed
>function is based on averages, I nonetheless think it is more reliable than
>the LR speedo

You raise a point that has had me wondering for a little while.  Some time
ago on this list someone posted an extremely detailed note about why GPS
speed readings can not be relied on in vehicles all the time.  I didn't pay
a lot of attention at the time because I didn't have a GPS but now I do and
I'm struck by how accurate it is in relation to the speedo of my wife's
Subaru (Vorizo is still laid up in the garage)

Over the course of the last two weeks I have not seen the GPS speed reading
vary at all from the car's instrument.  This has me puzzled because I would
have expected that as a result of the US DOD's deliberate dickering with the
accuracy of the GPS system I should have seen the odd wild variation.

Vorizo's speedo acts more like a metronome than anything else and no amount
of blowing dust out of it, greasing the cable, or tightening the big nut has
made the slightest difference.

I'm not at all concerned with exceeding the highway speed limit (I wish) and
general city driving is pretty simple if there are other vehicles around to
match speeds with but I am concerned about blasting through a playground or
school zone here in Calgary at more than 30 kph.  The fine can be a couple
of hundred dollars.  In lieu of anything else, can I rely on the Garmin?

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Rick Grant Associates.  Calgary, Canada
Media and Public Affairs

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From: IBEdwardp@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:34:55 EST
Subject: Re: Speedometer (and GPS)

In a message dated 98-12-06 20:31:30 EST, you write:

<<  I am concerned about blasting through a playground or
 school zone here in Calgary at more than 30 kph.  The fine can be a couple
 of hundred dollars.  In lieu of anything else, can I rely on the Garmin? >>

If the Garmin says you're going 30 kph @ "x" rpm in 4th gear over a period of
time or on several occasions, then I would assume that "x" rpm on the tach
would be a reliable gauge of speed. Same for 3rd gear. I've had similar
experience with speed reliability on GPS. It seems pretty consistent with the
speedo on my Isuzu anyway.

Ed Bailey
66 S2a 88
(Usually lost even with GPS) Somewhere in East Tennessee

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From: "Brian G. Holmes" <b-sholmes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:58:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Petrol price

C$roughly 66¢ US.  Last time I bought gas in West Kootenay (B.C.) it was
54.9¢/L.  But I won't move back to Ontario for "cheap" gas.
Cheers,
Brian

----------
> From: DNDANGER@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Petrol price
> Date: Saturday, December 05, 1998 10:56 PM
> In a message dated 98-12-05 23:52:36 EST, you write:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>  The prices in Toronto are "down" to 48 cents a LITRE........... Rejoice.
> Hmmm! I make that $1.82 per gallon. I suppose in Canadian money it's less
Eh?

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From: Kirk Hillman <kdhillman@home.com>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 21:03:39 -0700
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe lro

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:00:27 -1000
Subject: Re: Petrol price

>David Hope wrote:
>>PS  for all my old English friends on the list, petrol prices around
>>here
>>are down to $0.779 per gallon.  Who wants my overdrive?
>Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado-wish the price dropping would hit
>here!!
>Art

$1.509-1.689 here in HI.  Luckily the State is curently investigating the
oil companies.  Seems it doesn't 'cost' anymore to produce gas here then
back on the mainland.  Hmmm. . . .77 for dave 1.50 here.  That's one hell of
a profit margin
Aloha
Pete

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[spamkill: [Ii][Nn][fF][Oo]@ input: %s]	         "Ben Schreiner" 
<bldginfo@coastnet.com>,
[spamkill: list advert input: %s]	         "John McEwan" 
<britishnw@land-roverco.com>,

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Thu, 7 Dec 1995 00:01:51 -0700
Subject: The Series Shed

Many of you probably remember the "Series Dictionary" from a few eeks back.
Well, the site's progressing quickly, and I'd like to let the LRO-listers
begin to peruse it before I throw it out to the filthy masses (oh, yeah, we
are the filthy masses!). The URL is http://jbroach.interspeed.net/rover.
I'd love to hear your comments, suggestions, and additions. I also invite
you to become a friend of the Shed (information can be found in the Series
Fun section) and send me the address of your Series related site for the
links section. Oh yes, and don't tell me that the Our Series and Series
Links section don't work; I already know that 8-). Thanks to everyone who
has already contributed!

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: "Alain-Jean PARES" <InfoDyne@wanadoo.fr>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:05:51 +0100
Subject: Re: Petrol price

Here in France, 
Diesel is 3.3$ for a gallon
and Unleaded is 4.5 $ for a gallon.
...

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[spamkill: @yahoo\. input: %s]	 Return-Path: <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 01:24:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: reading the spark plugs

Here's an interesting one:

On the 6cylinder engine, I get plugs no 1, 2 and 3 a grey-ish brown,
while plugs 4, 5 and 6 are very white.

All plugs have the same heat rating, compression tests reveal
negligible differences between all cylinders.

It seem improbable to me that fuelling could be the cause, as the carb
is sited over cylinders 4, 5 and 6, and therefore should cause the
reverse in plug readings.

This has gotten me stumped.

Any thoughts from the collective wisdom of the list?

Cheers

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:49:17 +0000
Subject: Re: Haynes mauals

>Seems to be a lot of post on the Haynes manuals lately. They are not very
>good, full of errors, the real Rover one is worth the extra money.
>Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
I'll second that,if secondment is necessary.My problem with Haynes was
that I've got a S11A SWB diesel.The example vehicle in the manual is a
S111 LWB.Works t'other way around,too.I know the Repair Operation Manual
isnt cheap,but consider how much labour you'd get for the same money.
Not a lot.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:11:56 +0200
Subject: Re: Haynes mauals

> S111 LWB.Works t'other way around,too.I know the Repair Operation Manual
# isnt cheap,but consider how much labour you'd get for the same money. Not
> a lot. Cheers Mike Rooth.

Mike that's my "justification" for buying tools....

Now you have shown me the light and I can go purchase proper 
manuals!

(Thank goodness I don't have a Domestic Authority; sometimes it's 
hard enough convincing/deceiving myself!)

All the best,
Andy

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:51:40 -0000
Subject: Pure as the driven antifreeze

Are there any known snags with running large concentrations of antifreeze 
(like 50-100%)?

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 06:09:11 -0500
Subject: Re: Alt. Question

The 63-amp and 105-amp GM alternators have much different mounting methods and
cases. Get one for a 1970 Chevy Nova (dual-pulley) and that will slot in with
minimal work.

Take a look at the OVLR Web pages - I did a write-up on the modification.

                         Al Richer

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:13:52 +0000
Subject: Re: Pure as the driven antifreeze

>Are there any known snags with running large concentrations of antifreeze
>(like 50-100%)?
I've run a 50% mixture for the last couple of years without any problems.
Currently on a 33% mixture,but only because the bottom hose spigot on
the replacement radiator isnt truly round and leaks a bit.Antifreeze
does tend to be "searching" and will probably find places to leak.
The more so the higher the concentration.The Canadians presumably run
at high concentrations considering the winters they get.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 06:24:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Petrol price

Dave Lowe adds:

The prices in Toronto are "down" to 48 cents a LITRE........... Rejoice.

And when you figure the conversion it comes out to about $.77/gallon in US
dollars.....8*)

                         aj"I love the exchange rate....."r

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:28:10 +0000
Subject: Re: Haynes mauals

>(Thank goodness I don't have a Domestic Authority; sometimes it's
>hard enough convincing/deceiving myself!)
Practice,Andy,practice...:-)

Mike

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