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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 08:54:44 -0400
Subject: Re: trouble shooting oil and hi beam warning light

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:

> working on the rover also finally made the move to give the '70 the retro
> look by installing a breakfast with headlights and the appropriate fenders.
>  Everything finally falling into place except have no oil warning light or
> the high beam indicator.  What should I be seeing at the oil sender, if its
> working, and/or how can I test to see that it is working.  Why did the high
> beam indicator stop working at the same time??  Wiring seems to be exactly
> the same as the newer style front end with the exception of rerouting the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
>  It is probably a ground at the dash area. It seems to me without going out to
> check that these two have a common ground (those thin black wires behind the 
dash)

John and Muddy

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 20:53:11 -0800
Subject: OEM Tyres

When LR switched to 15" rims, what size OEM tyre was supplied?  My interest
is tall skinny tires, but what to look for....

bboT
Todd Schlemmer
Vashon Is., WA

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 13:34:56 -0400
Subject: Re: OEM Tyres

I believe they were H78  15 or  700x15. The same as were found on most 1/2 tons
of the same era.
John and Muddy

Todd Schlemmer wrote:

> When LR switched to 15" rims, what size OEM tyre was supplied?  My interest
> is tall skinny tires, but what to look for....

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 10:35:53 -0700
Subject: Re: OEM tyres

Todd writes...
<<When LR switched to 15" rims, what size OEM tyre was supplied?  My interest
is tall skinny tires, but what to look for>>

Todd, if I'm not mistaken, Solihull spec'd 7.00x15's. While these are great
for on-road acceleration, the 29" height comes up a bit short for my
liking. 30x9.5's are readily available (stock J**p size I think) and give
you a 30" overall height, a decent compromise. 33x9.5's are available from
BFG and have been used successfully, but keep in mind your gearing will be
raised significantly. Everything's a trade-off...

-joseph and sidney (who wears 235/85R16's)
missoula, mt

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 12:58:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Alt. Question

>I run a 110amp version and don't have a scrap of trouble.

John - Do you happen to know the part number?  Will it accept the dual
rover pully, or is the GM dual of similar dimentions.  Were you able to fit
it in the same place as the genny?  I seem to remember when I put in my
Lucas A1811, there was practically no extra room for anything of larger
circumference.  I want to have a plan on my long trips in case the Lucas
craps out.

Thanks in Advance - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 15:39:01 -0400
Subject: Re: Alt. Question

I don't recall the number but you can get a dual pulley for the right width
belt.
Best of luck     John

"Peter M. Kaskan" wrote:

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:47:59 -0800
Subject: Re: Need partz

Bill we have a couple of seat belt anchors here. Give me a call if you
still need them. Ray

----------
> From: Jarvis64@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Need partz
> Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 5:53 PM
> Hi y'all,
> The saga of my ill-planned seatbelt installation continues:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> The saga of my ill-planned seatbelt installation continues:
> Anyone got the brackets to anchor the bottom of the seatbelt?  RN # 
345101
> and 345100?  They're in everything, so does anyone have a parter-outer
they'd

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 18:54:57 -0600
Subject: Installing a new distributor

I am about to replace my old Lucas dizzy with a Ducillier.

The Haynes manual gives a very simple explanation of the process, but this
only covers removing and replacing the same distributor.  Hence they
recommend scibing a mark on the dizzy and the base so that timing remains
unaffected.

Now of course I am putting in a new one.  Reading the official Land Rover
workshop manual, the process seems very complex - removing the oil filter
and it's base, measuring angles etc..  Is this really necessary?

David Hope
64 llA

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 20:49:18
Subject: alt's

>If you ask for a Delco off  some thing with airconditioning you should end up
>with at least an 80amp version. This will be good for almost anything.
>I run a 110amp version and don't have a scrap of trouble.
>John and Muddy

I am running a generator now and have been told that when (if) I switch
over to the alt. I will have to make all of the brackets. Just how much
trouble is that? What must be made? What to do with the Rover voltage
regulater on the bulkhead?

Jim Wolf

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 19:01:36 -0600
Subject: Haynes manuals

Personally I have never seen Haynes manuals for sale in Barnes & Noble etc..
in the mid west.

However, if I ever want to look for some reason at a perfect untouched
hardback copy of either the petrol or diesel Haynes book I need go no
further than my public library.  And this is in Springfield, Missouri  which
until two years ago had a Land Rover population of nil.

David Hope

PS  for all my old English friends on the list, petrol prices around here
are down to $0.779 per gallon.  Who wants my overdrive?

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 21:35:11 EST
Subject: Re: Installing a new distributor

In a message dated 12/5/98 7:46:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
davidjhope@email.msn.com writes:

<< Now of course I am putting in a new one.  Reading the official Land Rover
 workshop manual, the process seems very complex - removing the oil filter
 and it's base, measuring angles etc..  Is this really necessary? >>

I don't know about the Ducillier dizzy, but the old style and new style Lucas
dizzys are entirely interchangable and there is no need to get into the
distributor drive gear.  I expect the Ducillier is probably similar

Nate

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 21:35:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Installing a new distributor

On Sat, 5 Dec 1998, david hope wrote:

:I am about to replace my old Lucas dizzy with a Ducillier.

Any particular reason for the Duciller?  A brand spankin' new 45d4 costs
$120ish.  You can find rebuilt 25d4s for less than a hundred at various
big chain places.  (Ask for one from a late sixties MGB.  Or a trimuph.
Or a mini.  Or just about any four cylinder LBC from the period.) 

:
:The Haynes manual gives a very simple explanation of the process, but this
:only covers removing and replacing the same distributor.  Hence they
:recommend scibing a mark on the dizzy and the base so that timing remains
:unaffected.
:Now of course I am putting in a new one.  Reading the official Land Rover
:workshop manual, the process seems very complex - removing the oil filter
:and it's base, measuring angles etc..  Is this really necessary?

Does the Duciller have the same drive end as the Lucas ones do?  If it
does, you can just pull the old one out and put the new one, changing any
gaskets or clamps that need to be changed.  If you would like to be able
to start the thing afterwards, it helps to rotate the engine until the
points are open.  Note which cylinder is getting spark.  When you put the
new dizzy in, rotate it until the points are open, and attach the
appropriate wires (1-3-4-2).  

Of course, it the drive end of the duciller dizzy is different and you
need to change something, like the drive gear, than you are better off
getting 

:David Hope
:64 llA
:

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 21:37:23 EST
Subject: Re: alt's

In a message dated 12/5/98 7:51:51 PM Eastern Standard Time,
J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< I am running a generator now and have been told that when (if) I switch
 over to the alt. I will have to make all of the brackets. Just how much
 trouble is that? What must be made? What to do with the Rover voltage
 regulater on the bulkhead?
  >>

Al Richer has a relatively cookbook method of replacing the genny with an
alternator.  I did it myself and believe me I'm no whizbang at these things.
Even I found it to be a relatively straightforward process.  Al's paper on
this is located at the LR FAQ

Nate

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 19:34:35 -0700
Subject: Re: alt's

I have heard that there are two different bottom brackets. I'm not sure
which of the two I have, but I have a 1966 88", and the bracket mounts
with 3 bolts I believe. I was able to use the bottom bracket by spacing
it away from the block using 1 nut and washer in each bolt. I put a
piece 1/4" galvanized pipe in the hole in the alt as a bushing, and used
a longer bolt of the same diameter to mount it. I think I also used
washers on this bolt to take up the extra space. The only new bracket I
had to make was the top one, and I bet you could avoid this with a trip
to a junkyard. It was a while ago that I installed mine, which is why
I'm not sure about some details, especially what I did with the voltage
regulator. I think TeriAnn's page might have details on the regulator.

Jim Hall 
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

James Wolf wrote:
;> I am running a generator now and have been told that when (if) I
switch
;> over to the alt. I will have to make all of the brackets. Just how
much
;> trouble is that? What must be made? What to do with the Rover voltage
;> regulater on the bulkhead?

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 21:49:03 -0500
Subject: Haynes mauals

Seems to be a lot of post on the Haynes manuals lately. They are not very
good, full of errors, the real Rover one is worth the extra money.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 19:56:26 -0700
Subject: Petrol price

David Hope wrote:

PS  for all my old English friends on the list, petrol prices around
here
are down to $0.779 per gallon.  Who wants my overdrive?

Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado-wish the price dropping would hit
here!!

Art
1960 SII"Aardvark"

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 19:52:05 -0700
Subject: Re: Petrol price

Down to .85 in Evergreen, CO

Art Bitterman wrote:
> David Hope wrote:
> PS  for all my old English friends on the list, petrol prices around
> here
> are down to $0.779 per gallon.  Who wants my overdrive?
> Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado-wish the price dropping would hit
> here!!

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado-wish the price dropping would hit
> here!!

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 22:00:03 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: alt's

If you want an easy switch - call around for a used series three bracket (I
think that is what I bought).  That is another option to tweak.  You'll
probably have to just start doing it to see what you need to do.  Because
it was winter and I was working on the street in the snow - I bought the
lucas a1811, which is a 43 amp and  "bolts" right to the bracket I bought.
I also wanted to keep my double pully, which I knew the lucas would accept.
I needed to slightly alter the bracket to aling the double pully with a
hacksaw though.  (Let me know offlist if you would like to know where I was
able to get a relatively cheap rebuilt a1811 from the east coast  (I was
not about to pay 250+ for an alternator from RN!))  I have had that lucas
in there for about a year and alls well - when it craps out I'll put in a
GM with higher amps.  Check the web sites for wiring info - I think even RN
has a section on it (at least last year they did).

Good Luck - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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[spamkill: eudoramail\.com input: %s]	 Return-Path: <execk2@eudoramail.com>
[spamkill: eudoramail\.com input: %s]	 From: "George" <execk2@eudoramail.com>

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 22:31:57 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: alt's

On Sat, 5 Dec 1998 jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

:I have heard that there are two different bottom brackets. I'm not sure

There is (at least) one type for generator mounting, and a seperate
bracket for (factory) alternator mounting.  As it happens, there are types
of Delco alternators, a big one and a small one.  This refers to the
diameter of the thing, and not necessarily the output, as they come in
wide variety of outputs.   I have a bracket to mount a lucas alternator,
and installed a small profile Delco fabricating only an extension for the
adjusting bar.  I did press a piece of bushing in the bottom mounting hole
of alternator, as it too large.   I suspect the fan belt is not the
standard size, but aren't sure.  

The large diameter one is a similiar bolt on if you have the generator
bracket, I think.

There are two other things that are different on different delco
alternators.  The first are the pulleys.  There are at least three
different types.  The double pulley one is the likely the way to go.  The
other thing is the "clocking" of the output plug.  You can get them
clocked at 9, 12 and 3 o'clock.  A little thought about how the setup is
going to work will let you buy one with the plug as far from the exhaust
manifolds as possible.  It is fairly easy to change the clocking, but it
is easier to just buy the right one, esp if you are buying one from a
parts place.

David/ Mr Sinclair -- improved! now with heat!

ps.  Gas here is 83 cents a gallon, which included the pumping, checking
the oil, and having the windshields washed.    

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From: David <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 23:06:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts 

>From: dbobeck@ushmm.org

>Can someone with the II/IIA manual please confirm or deny the existence of
>the torque specifications?
>thank you
>the management

Dear Management,

I have the two volume "Land Rover Series II & IIA Repair Operation Manual"
part no. AKM8159. Both part 1 and part 2 are green. My SWB is green also
but not Green. The repair manual is copyrighted to the Rover Group Limited
and "published by Brooklands Books Limited under licence and is based upon
text and illustrations protected by Copyright Land Rover Limited..."

There is no section listed in the Index to Sections, index, or anywhere
else that is specifically dedicated to torque settings. Torque settings are
listed in the text of each repair operation.

There are no torque settings listed for the "Shackle pin" or "Self-locking
nut" in the suspension section.

The "stub shaft securing nut" (listed as "Fixings, driving member to axle
stub shaft" in Fig. F1-7 on page 8-F) is tightened to 10-15 lb ft and
"secured with a new split pin."

Personally, I can't see how anyone could possibly survive without this
repair manual--especially because it's clearly laid out, with pictures.
This is especially helpfull for the less mechanically inclined of us.

YMMV

Cheers,

David Russell
Member: OVLR, R.O.V.E.R.S. and the MostlyMetro group
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol, green; in progress
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 11:47:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Installing a new distributor

Just undo the distributor clamp and swap them . No need to touch the spacer or
the drive gear. Check the points and timing afterwards. The dwell on the
Ducellier is 57 degrees. The points gap is the same at 14 to 16 thou.

> I am about to replace my old Lucas dizzy with a Ducillier.
> Now of course I am putting in a new one.  Reading the official Land Rover
> workshop manual, the process seems very complex - removing the oil filter
> and it's base, measuring angles etc..  Is this really necessary?

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 11:57:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Petrol price

The prices in Toronto are "down" to 48 cents a LITRE........... Rejoice.

APS  for all my old English friends on the list, petrol prices around

> here
> are down to $0.779 per gallon.  Who wants my overdrive?
> Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado-wish the price dropping would hit
> here!!

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:03:29 EST
Subject: Re: Alt. Question

In a message dated 98-12-04 22:53:33 EST, you write:

<< Mahalo John.
 This is one of those "find it yer self" places.  I know that the camaro I
 saw there yesterday had AC (I didn't have any tools :-(   )
 I was worried that a 110 might be too much, but if it's working for you I
 will stop my worring.
 Later
 Pete >>
An alternator only generates power on demand when the battery voltage falls
below the regulated set point. So when the battery is charged it just idles.
The only problem I can see with a high capacity alternator is that it will be
physically larger and may be a little cramped in the space provided for it. 

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:19:30 EST
Subject: Re: trouble shooting oil and hi beam warning light

In a message dated 98-12-05 00:48:31 EST, you write:

<<  What should I be seeing at the oil sender, if its
 working, and/or how can I test to see that it is working. >>

The oil pressure indicator light is wired to a make or break switch located on
the oil filter housing. Probably close to the guage pressure tap.  With the
engine off you should read continuity to ground through the switch. With the
engine running you should read an open circuit. very simple unless someone
decides to try to run an electrical guage from it.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:42:56 EST
Subject: Re: alt's

In a message dated 98-12-05 19:51:51 EST, you write:

 I am running a generator now and have been told that when (if) I switch
 over to the alt. I will have to make all of the brackets. Just how much
 trouble is that? What must be made? What to do with the Rover voltage
 regulater on the bulkhead?
 
 Jim Wolf
 
 >>
>From my experience you can use the main pivot mount on the block for an
alternator if it is small enough to fit in the space. You may need some
different hardware and some spacers to align the pulley (or change the pulley
for one with the right offset. you may also need to modify, scavenge or
fabricate a new adjusment bracket. 

As for the old regulator? See how far you can throw it. Replace it with a
terminal block to power all those new accessories.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:56:45 EST
Subject: Re: Petrol price

In a message dated 98-12-05 23:52:36 EST, you write:

 The prices in Toronto are "down" to 48 cents a LITRE........... Rejoice.
  >>
Hmmm! I make that $1.82 per gallon. I suppose in Canadian money it's less Eh?

Bill Lawrence

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 00:25:14
Subject: Re: Petrol price in Kona

	Gas has dropped all the way to $1.75 a gallon.  Massive price wars going
on, used to be as high as $1.84.  Interesting that gas costs so much here
when we are actually closer to the Alaskan oil fields than SoCal. 

Aloha Peter 

>David Hope wrote:
>PS  for all my old English friends on the list, petrol prices around
>here
>are down to $0.779 per gallon.  Who wants my overdrive?

>Still $1.14 here in Southern Colorado-wish the price dropping would hit
>here!!

>Art

>Art

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 10:41:59 -0000
Subject: Re: Petrol price

Diesel just went down to 62.9 pence a litre, for about a week, before going
back up to 68.9 pence. I have a lot of Jerry cans full now.....
(and petrol/gas is a few pence more usually - don't expect me to do the $
conversion, I may cry)

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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