Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 08:42:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts

"Peter M. Kaskan" wrote:

>         Right Dave S.! - I have had my rover for 1.5 years and about 9000
> miles (not much compared to some of you, I know) and rely on it for my only
> transport, but in that time I've managed to, with the help of you all, and
> the blue haynes book, to entirely rebuild the clutch and brake hydraulics,
> brakes, carburator rebuild, alternator install, hub seals, water pump,
> radiator, fuel pumps, wiring etc. etc. etc...  Not to forget my recent
> attempts at valve adjusting!
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 24 lines)]
> >to look and see which tools I need before I go freeze.
> Peter M. Kaskan

I don't need no stinking torque settings just a good selection of hammers!
  John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 07:58:44 EST
Subject: Re: Need partz

In a message dated 98-12-02 21:02:25 EST, you write:

 Bill Rice
 Columbus GA (all the apartment windows open and a bit too warm on 2 Dec)
 109SW >>
  

  Comments like that won't get you too many parts from us Northerners, Bub.

Enzo 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 98 08:58:35 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts 

        >Frankly I can't afford to buy the two part workshop manual.  I'd
>rather pester all of you!! And then spend the little I have on rover 
>parts, beer, pizza, tools, beer, rover parts, 90wt, another spare rover, 
>more tools, beer, more 90wt...

hah! you can get all that for the price of a manual?!? :)
seriously though, you are right, except that if you were to rebuild and engine 
or gearbox you would be wise to acquire the manual first. Also used copies are 
availabel form time to time if you go to car shows. I saw a couple at Carlisle 
Import last year. Bought one, sold it on the spot...
btw, it is also just a really neat book, lots of cool illustrations...if I had 
a IIa, I'd get one!
later
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:23:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Ethics 101

If you sold it for 4 grand under value and the new owner had to put in 
another 1300, the math says that he still comes out with a discount of 
2700. Shed no tears over this deal, my friend.
Private to private deals are not subject to any sort of recourse. Usually 
the court looks upon these situations as being the responsibility of the 
buyer to ascertain that the vehicle has no defects. Buying from a dealer 
invests the buyer with the right to sue should the vehicle fail the lemon 
law tests.
If the buyer really wanted to be certain of the sale, he could have asked 
you if you would have minded whether he had a mechanic check the vehicle 
over prior to sale, at his expense. Then the mechanical deficiencies 
would be known, or at least there would be no arguments, since HE had it 
checked out before you signed over the title.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 15:56:12 -0500
Subject: Re: Stainless Window Channel

asfco wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:24:53 -1000
Subject: Delco Alternator ID

I was going to go out salvage yard picking later and was planning on
grabbing an alternator for the project.  Is there any external markings on
them to ID how many amps they are?  And is 'x' amps too many for the Rover?
Mahalo
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 18:19:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: lost '60-'61 SII

In search of the whereabouts of a 1960 (1961) SII ser number
144102116.  Not stolen, just wandered off way back in '67 and
I'm wondering if anyone out here has seen the boy.  Originally
a blue soft top but who knows what he looks like today.

Some history: This rig was *the* car that appeared at the
1960 car show in Grand Central Station, NYC.  Then was driven
to a horse show/country fair in Yorktown, NY (the "Yorktown
Grange Fair").  My parents happened to be there, and after
my mother fell in love with it she spoke with the sales
person...she said "I love this car" and he replied "you'd better,
because your husband just bought it for you".  Actually,
I was always told it was *my* rover, having been born the
same year a few months earlier and been the one to bust
the bubble, so to speak - prior to that my parents only owned
a '57 VW bug and a '49 MG TC, niether of which could tote
around a family of five which subsequently grew to seven in
the years that followed.

Collective recollections have it that there was something
"new and coming" about this rig.  Methinks it may well have
been a "transition" Rover (SII to SIIa) and the salesman
touted it as having some special features though I know
not what they are.  Reason for the year ambiguity is that
it was purchased in '60 but has a serial number of a '61 SII,
and perhaps this was one of the first '61s to arrive in 
the US (it being in the car show and all).

>From June of '60 to mid-summer of '67 this Rover saw lotsa
work on the family farm.  Mostly pulling horses and spreading
their manure, but also moving wood and tons of rocks that 
now make up one long stone wall.  Some of my fondest memories
are of riding in the spare wheel keeping an eye out for rocks
while moving through fields grown tall with grass (long since
overgrazed, I'm ashamed to say..).  Also have vivid memories
of going to the drive-in, with a board placed across the back
for the three kids and a load of blankets and pillows; there 
was always a struggle for the warm spot above the exhaust.
Got lots of sexual education watching early Bond flicks
in there...

Dad rolled this Rover in '67 while towing a load of wood. Sufferred
nothing more than a bump on the head and cut his way out of the
soft top (doors were jammed) with his Swiss Army knife.  (Soon
thereafter the 'rents bought a '67 SIIa we still own.) The '60 was
then sold to a fellow named Frank Singer, who converted it to
a cab top.  Frank had it for a few years and sold it to Helmut
Buckholtz in Highland Falls, NY, who for a short time sold
Land Rovers.  No idea at all where it went from there but perhaps
someone out there does....

If you've seen him, please let me know...I'll even supply some
early photos.  Please reply direct (rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu)
as the Major seems to have bit the big one.

rd/nige

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 21:41:19 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts 

>From: dbobeck@ushmm.org

>Can someone with the II/IIA manual please confirm or deny the existence of
>the torque specifications?
>thank you
>the management

Dear Management,

I have the two volume "Land Rover Series II & IIA Repair Operation Manual"
part no. AKM8159. Both part 1 and part 2 are green. My SWB is green also
but not Green. The repair manual is copyrighted to the Rover Group Limited
and "published by Brooklands Books Limited under licence and is based upon
text and illustrations protected by Copyright Land Rover Limited..."

There is no section listed in the Index to Sections, index, or anywhere
else that is specifically dedicated to torque settings. Torque settings are
listed in the text of each repair operation.

There are no torque settings listed for the "Shackle pin" or "Self-locking
nut" in the suspension section.

The "stub shaft securing nut" (listed as "Fixings, driving member to axle
stub shaft" in Fig. F1-7 on page 8-F) is tightened to 10-15 lb ft and
"secured with a new split pin."

Personally, I can't see how anyone could possibly survive without this
repair manual--especially because it's clearly laid out, with pictures.
This is especially helpfull for the less mechanically inclined of us.

YMMV

Cheers,

David Russell
Member: OVLR, R.O.V.E.R.S. and the MostlyMetro group
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol, green; in progress
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 18:59:59
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Window Channels

	Stainless is the fastener of choice with aluminum in the marine
environment.  type 304 and 316 fasteners are commonly used in aluminum
masts and the masts last for decades.  We built and launched our Westsail
32 in 1974.  We sailed the boat to the South Pacific and around the
Hawaiian Islands until we sold it in 1984.  The new owner has sailed the
boat to the trust territories, Australia, NZ, and back through Polynesia.
All of this with the same fasteners in the 24 year old mast.  The mast was
painted when new and the fasteners were installed with 'never seize' and
any bronze fittings like winch bases had an insulating gasket.  Before the
new buyer went on their cruise, they stripped the mast and repainted it but
the fasteners were still in good condition and had not eaten the aluminum
in the mast.  Most of these fasteners were tapped into the aluminum and all
the hardware like halyard sheave axles were stainless and resting directly
on the aluminum without any insulating medium.  The entire weight of the
rig at the base was resting on a 1+" stainless axle pin that allowed the
mast to pivot, by the way.
	Aircraft aluminum alloys may be different than boat alloys but I 
wouldn't
be that concerned about stainless fasteners eating up the rover.  If you
look at the Galvanic tables, I think you will find that stainless steel is
pretty damn close to plain steel.  If memory serves me right, its only a
step or two removed.  Having said that, an insulating layer under any
fastener against Aluminum is a good idea.  I have seen rover aluminum
disappear completely from behind perfectly good steel plates and fasteners
on a generally very rusty example.  The paint had broken down and allowed
direct contact in a salty environment.  For those of you going through a
rebuild, put some inert material like vinyl window material or some other
form of thin plastic like electrical tape under the washers of fasteners or
the body mounts on the rear cross member and any other place that you have
direct contact with the aluminum.  An ounce of protection, especially if
you live in the salty north, will go a long way to keeping the aluminum
intact long after the steel parts have been eaten by the rustermite.
	Marin, we were in your fair city over Thanksgiving.  Those people that 
say
its rainy and overcast in Seattle are liers.  We had partly cloudy
conditions and it was near 50 most every day and the sun came out quite
often.  Of course you had near hurricane winds and torrential rains up
until the day we arrived and it was gray and rainy as we drove out to the
airport on Sunday when we left but that was probably just a momentary break
in the usual tropical, sunny winter in Seattle.

Aloha Peter

Stainless steel is much higher on the Galvanic chart than
>aluminum alloy.  When you introduce an electrolyte, and window channels
>especially collect salts and other chemicals plus the water that soaks the
>felts and sits in the channel, an electrical current will flow between the
>metals that are in contact, and the metal that's lower on the chart will
>begin to dissolve, or corrode.  

C. Marin Faure

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 19:03:33
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel and aluminum

	Stainless is the fastener of choice with aluminum in the marine
environment.  type 304 and 316 fasteners are commonly used in aluminum
masts and the masts last for decades.  We built and launched our Westsail
32 in 1974.  We sailed the boat to the South Pacific and around the
Hawaiian Islands until we sold it in 1984.  The new owner has sailed the
boat to the trust territories, Australia, NZ, and back through Polynesia.
All of this with the same fasteners in the 24 year old mast.  The mast was
painted when new and the fasteners were installed with 'never seize' and
any bronze fittings like winch bases had an insulating gasket.  Before the
new buyer went on their cruise, they stripped the mast and repainted it but
the fasteners were still in good condition and had not eaten the aluminum
in the mast.  Most of these fasteners were tapped into the aluminum and all
the hardware like halyard sheave axles were stainless and resting directly
on the aluminum without any insulating medium.  The entire weight of the
rig at the base was resting on a 1+" stainless axle pin that allowed the
mast to pivot, by the way.
	Aircraft aluminum alloys may be different than boat alloys but I 
wouldn't
be that concerned about stainless fasteners eating up the rover.  If you
look at the Galvanic tables, I think you will find that stainless steel is
pretty damn close to plain steel.  If memory serves me right, its only a
step or two removed.  Having said that, an insulating layer under any
fastener against Aluminum is a good idea.  I have seen rover aluminum
disappear completely from behind perfectly good steel plates and fasteners
on a generally very rusty example.  The paint had broken down and allowed
direct contact in a salty environment.  For those of you going through a
rebuild, put some inert material like vinyl window material or some other
form of thin plastic like electrical tape under the washers of fasteners or
the body mounts on the rear cross member and any other place that you have
direct contact with the aluminum.  An ounce of protection, especially if
you live in the salty north, will go a long way to keeping the aluminum
intact long after the steel parts have been eaten by the rustermite.
	Marin, we were in your fair city over Thanksgiving.  Those people that 
say
its rainy and overcast in Seattle are liars.  We had partly cloudy
conditions and it was near 50 most every day and the sun came out quite
often.  Of course you had near hurricane winds and torrential rains up
until the day we arrived and it was gray and rainy as we drove out to the
airport on Sunday when we left but that was probably just a momentary break
in the usual tropical, sunny winter in Seattle.

Aloha Peter

Stainless steel is much higher on the Galvanic chart than
>aluminum alloy.  When you introduce an electrolyte, and window channels
>especially collect salts and other chemicals plus the water that soaks the
>felts and sits in the channel, an electrical current will flow between the
>metals that are in contact, and the metal that's lower on the chart will
>begin to dissolve, or corrode.  

C. Marin Faure>

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 19:18:33
Subject: Re: Is the major eating my messages.

Just posted a message about stainless and aluminum twice but haven't gotten
the confirmation post back.  Is the major eating my posts or just not
letting me see the finished product in print??  This has happened on a
regular basis with the new major's software and am wondering if the Major
has taken a disliking to me and is censoring my inputs or is this just the
way it works sometimes.

Would appreciate some feedback if either of these posts on stainless and
aluminum got spread around the list.

Aloha Peter

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; 
boundary="------------A3DDC02D2E3FC0013E220890" ]
From: Robbie Anderson <Robbie@rie.net.au>
Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 20:40:18 +1100
Subject: [Fwd: Need help]

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: message/rfc822 ]

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 13 lines 0 [forwarded 58 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 457 [content 367  forwarded 42 (cut  16) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>