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The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:35:24 -0400
Subject: Re: spiders

jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

> rover, and salsbury spi

They are totaly different.
I believe that some Range Rover diffs had 24 spline spiders and they
probably would fit.
John and Muddy

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From: "Steve Stoneham" <stoneham@kos.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:48:00 -0500
Subject: Heater Identification

The heater in question seems to have been called a "fresh air heater" in a
LR manual I once had.I can't recall which manual that was now but I think it
was an early II/IIA repair manual.It clearly showed the ducting for this
type of heater.Seems the next version (1960) used a similar setup but
without the bulky distribution box mounted in the center of the bulkhead.The
60 model was the last used before the commomly seen distribution box up to
at least 1966. Instead of the defroster hoses coming from the dist. box
itself it used a "sleeved" setup where after making the bend over the
passenger footwell another piece of duct was connected and angled the
defrost hoses at a 45 degree angle with a gradual rounding on the bottom of
this.
Now I wished I'd taken photos of all this stuff as it's a little difficult
to describe!!
Regards,
Steve

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 98 08:57:17 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Block heaters and seetz 

     Clinton wrote:
     
     >  I would *love* to get my hands on a set of high back early 90/110 
     >seats for about 50 pounds or so....

Good Luck
I got a set from Seth at BB, I over heard him talking about them at the OVLR 
b'day party. Called up a few months later and got the set for $150. All three. 
They were a wee bit worn but VERY serviceable...But...they were missing the 
frames and the sliding tracks. Frames were going for $279 a piece from RN. 
Europarts offered em for $200 a piece. I called almost every parts supplier I 
could find in LROi and finally after about two weeks I secured a secondhand set 
from Avon for 50 quid. Tack on another 57 quid for shipping, and now the seats 
are $320...Why am I telling you all this, you ask? Wel, here's the skinny. They 
are next to impossible to find over here, especially old beat up ones. 
According to reliable sources they were going for L100 apiece at Sodbury. Seen 
em myself in LOOT for L40 apiece. I'd hate to have to pay shipping on seats 
from the UK. How much is shipping for the Trakkers or similar? They might be 
the more economical alternative if you simply want a high back for safety, 
which was my main goal. btw, I sold my good condition SIII seat set which 
helped to defray the cost a bit.

If you *can* lay your hands on a set of defender seats, I highly recommend 
them. I've seen some aftermarket high backs, and these are of a much higher 
quality. And comfy too :)
cheers
dave

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From: "Johan van Staden" <jcvs@postino.up.ac.za>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:29:43 +0200
Subject: Re: Fuel pump oil seal

As far as I can see there is no pressure differential across this seal. It
only needs to contain the oil thrown there by the churning innards of the
engine.  It should not be too difficult to make an improvised one, i.e. from
a wheel cylinder dust cover. However, when venturing into the hart of Africa
the thing should be reliable and made of a material that does not
deteriorate in the hot, oily environment. Would the dust cover, designed for
brake fluid, be OK?

Johan van Staden
Gold Fields Computer Centre for Education
Faculty of Science, University of Pretoria
Pretoria, 0002
South Africa
Tel: +12 420 2470 Fax; +12 420 3874

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 98 07:05:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel pump oil seal

>As far as I can see there is no pressure differential across this seal. It
>only needs to contain the oil thrown there by the churning innards of the
;>engine.  It should not be too difficult to make an improvised one, i.e. 
from
;>a wheel cylinder dust cover. However, when venturing into the hart of 
Africa
;>the thing should be reliable and made of a material that does not
;>deteriorate in the hot, oily environment. Would the dust cover, 
designed for
;>brake fluid, be OK?

Ben Smith made that conversion about 5 years ago.  He drives his 88 more 
miles than anyone I know (Or at least did before he picked up a 
Discovery).  I think the brake dust seal is still in there doing it's job.

If you are venturing "into the heart of Africa" you might want to carry 
some spares just in case.

When I venture "into the heart of Moab" I carry tools and spares, 
including a fuel pump ready to go.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 11:12:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Stainless Window Tracking ...Screws or Glue

Russ likes screws, I like glue
> Russ' reasons for screwing in the tracks...
> Uh, two reasons, I suppose:
> 1) The sliding window is held in by the window tracking...adhesive
> let's go and in your lap it comes.
> 2) How easily will it come apart next time?  (ie if you resolve
> problem #1 you're now faced with #2)

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> and then there's the potentially lame reason that screwed in tracking
> is stockesque.
Rus
I like the idea of keeping things pretty much stock however I never want
to deal with those screws again...Thats why I used the adhesive..
  You are correct, the glass holds pressure on the window track holding
it in place. I used a dime size drop of PL 2000 in only 4 places top and
bottom, this gave a good tight fit.  I don't forsee any difficulty in
removing the tracks as long as it can be grabbed with a pair of pliers
it should pull right out.
I will let you know how it goes when they have to be replaced in 25
years
Rgds
Happy Holidays
Steve Bradke  68 Series lla

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From: Daniel Villeneuve <davil@aei.ca>
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 12:31:02 -0500
Subject: 95 Discovery advice

Hello,

I am considering the purchase of 95 Discovery with
80,000km.  It looks imaculate, is fully equiped and above
all drives like a charm.  I do not know those vehicules that
well hence this e-mail.

I would use it mostly on regular roads with the occasional
rough dirt road to go fishing and camping.  Any info,
warnings and the likes would be appreciated.

Thank you

Daniel Villeneuve
Montreal, Canada
http://www.aei.ca/~davil

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:09:23 -0800 
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Window Channels

From: "Neil Sheridan" <neilsheridan@nac.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:46:33 -0500
Subject: Stainless Steel Window Channels

>I went looking for a "ship's chandler" to find the stainless steel window
channels as has been recommended on the list and the FAQ.

I've said this before, and I'll say it again.  It's a VERY bad idea to put
anything made out of stainless steel on a Land Rover.  The problem is
electrolysis.  Stainless steel is much higher on the Galvanic chart than
aluminum alloy.  When you introduce an electrolyte, and window channels
especially collect salts and other chemicals plus the water that soaks the
felts and sits in the channel, an electrical current will flow between the
metals that are in contact, and the metal that's lower on the chart will
begin to dissolve, or corrode.  I've seen this happen several times on
floatplanes.  People replace steel fasteners or fittings with ones made of
stainless steel thinking they will eliminate the rust problem, and then
wonder why the aluminum skins of their fuselage or floats rapidly begin to
corrode.  In some cases, this has resulted in tens of thousands of dollars
worth of damage.  If you're concerned about rust, install aluminum window
channels, which is what I did a few years ago.  Install stainless steel
channels, and eventually the bodywork around the channels will begin to
corrode.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:18:35 -0500 
Subject: Rover chief resigns after rescue deal 

Rover chairman Walter Hasselkus has announced he is to resign, admitting
the company under his stewardship had "got it wrong". 
The news came at a London news conference to confirm a radical
restructuring deal with unions that will see 2,500 jobs to go from the
troubled carmaker's UK operations to save its Midlands Longbridge plant.

Mr Hasselkus headed talks with union leaders that produced the rescue
package. 

After announcing his resignation, he said: "Obviously you can't always
blame external factors. It has to be admitted we have got it simply
wrong in not anticipating the fierceness of competition in the British
market." 
He added that "someone has to be prepared to stand up and be counted",
referring to the company's string of losses which has forced parent BMW
to consider closure of Longbridge if productivity couldn't be improved. 
An international survey of carmakers earlier this year put Rover at the
bottom of the league while some UK carmakers were up with the world's
best. 
Rescue plan confirmed 
The restructuring plan offers £2bn for investment in new car models in
return for workers accepting radical new practices and job cuts through
voluntary redundancies. 
£2bn for new Rover models	
The deal will be voted on by Rover's 39,000 workers later this week
after already being sanctioned by senior union officials following more
than a month of negotiations. 
"This is a good deal that secures Longbridge - the workforce cannot
afford to reject it," said Ken Jackson, general secretary of the
Amalgamated Engineering and Electrical Union. 
If accepted by the workforce it will then go to the BMW board for
approval. 
BMW chairman Bernd Pischetsrieder said the agreement will lead to cost
savings of £150m a year from 2000. 
There was no word on any government aid which the company was thought to
be seeking, however Mr Pischetsrieder reiterated he thought it unfair
that competitors received grants while Rover didn't. 
New models 
The infusion of new investment would see a new plant and equipment
installed for the production of another mini model and a new medium size
car at Longbridge in Birmingham. 
Rover spokesman David Bower said that under the new arrangements up to
200 hours would be saved up by workers during times of high production
to be taken as time off during quieter times. 
New shift patterns will be introduced, with production running up to 100
hours a week at each plant in five day and night shifts including a
Saturday morning if necessary, at standard rates of pay. 
He said more than 3,000 workers had already asked about voluntary
redundancy. 
Mr Hasselkus will be replaced by Werner Saemann, a former professor at
Berlin Technical University, who joined BMW in 1976 and rose to its
board of management earlier this year. 

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:18:12 -0800 
Subject: Re[2]: Charcoal Cannister 

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 98 12:39:42 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Charcoal Cannister 

> >I simply removed the rubber sealing gasket from the original fuel cap.
The 
>cap fit is loose enough now to let air into the tank when it's needed, but 
>tight enough to prevent any noticeable degree of fuel evaporation.

>read of a fire that started from a gas leak due to a bad gasket here
(vehicle 
went on its side). I simply drilled a pinhole (just in the inside, not all
the 
way through) here to solve the same problem. I guess my pinhole could leak
too. 
original caps had a little breather thingy with a screen in it. Can they
leak 
as well? I wold imagine if the hole is small enuogh they might not. 

Well now, you bring up an excellent point and one I hadn't thought of in 25
years of Land Rover ownership.  Your pinhole on the inner "plate" of the
fuel cap wouldn't leak enough fuel to start a fire, but my missing gasket
certainly would.  Guess who will be drilling a hole and replacing a gasket
in the very near future.  Many thanks for pointing out the danger of my
"solution."

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:15:42 -0800 
Subject: RE: Heater identification

Hi Bill,

Does your heater look like mine?
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/lrheater.jpg

If so, I think it's an early version of the Kodiak.  Air intake should be on
the inside front panel of the starboard wing...

Paul Quin
1961 SII 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 14:18:02 EST
Subject: Re: Info on Heaters

Peter,

Some great info!  Thanks!  Looks like there's some definite alternatives.
Also checked out the web site on their waste oil heaters.  A new shop heater
is definitely on Larry's wish list for Santa.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:12:43 -0000
Subject: Re: Ethics 101

I think the thing to do is to imagine yourself in his place.
 You bought a truck for less than the book price and thought you'd got a
good deal because of it. Then a mechanical problem which no-one could
foresee happened.
Not your fault - you didn't get a bad buy anyway - your still $$$s up.
Not the POs fault, how could he have known.
Just one of those things.....
Sh*t happens

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 21:22:13 +1100
Subject: Hesitating Rover

Lawrence Lee wrote:
> Can anyone who is familiar with the Stromberg 175 CD2S carburettor
> please tell me if the air-valve diaphragm is leaking, I would get a
> hesitation during acceleration i.e. a "flat-spot".

John Cranfield advised:
>However if you don't hear it  that doesn't mean it isn't leaking.
>Take the top off and have a look.

I had CD150S carbs on my Hillman.  The diaphragms cost about A$5 (approx
Sing $5) each.  Once you take the top off, you may as well replace the
diaphragms - they won't go back in anyway (from my experience they were
distorted after 27 years continual in the carbs).

Then Lawrence said:
>BTW, I have top-up the dashboard oil 

I knew Land Rovers leaked but... topping up the dashboard oil !!!  8-)

Ron

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From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:34:15 -0600
Subject: Sighting Aardvark!!!

Hi,
	I saw a SIIa 88" red rover with "Aardvark" across the back on the
interstate just south of Pueblo, CO on wed before thanksgivng.  Flew past
him in the Jetta.  That is one cool rover.  Looks very well equipped for
anything. Thumbs up to the owner.

Steve Fullwood 
1961 88" SII softtop 

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From: "Jeffrey A. Berg" <jeff@purpleshark.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:49:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Stainless Steel Window Channels

C. Marin Faure writes:
> It's a VERY bad idea to put
> anything made out of stainless steel on a Land Rover.  The problem is
> electrolysis.  Stainless steel is much higher on the Galvanic chart than
> aluminum alloy.  When you introduce an electrolyte, and window channels
> especially collect salts and other chemicals plus the water that soaks the
> felts and sits in the channel, an electrical current will flow between the
> metals that are in contact, and the metal that's lower on the chart will
> begin to dissolve, or corrode

Everything you say is true, but how bad the problem will actually be 
depends on the specific type of stainless alloy used. Also, it's easy to 
prevent the reaction: just put a layer of paint, plastic or rubber between 
the unlike metals: Problem solved. Used properly, the advantages of 
stainless outweigh the disadvantages. 

The door tops are generally steel, not aluminum, so the difference in 
"nobelness" is not too great anyhow. Based on the life of my door tops with 
the standard tracks, I'd think that the stainless window tracks would be 
the least of your worries. I've seen 'em on Sandy Grice's Rover (going on 4 
years now isn't it Sandy?) and they seem to work just fine--his door tops 
look better then mine and I'm guessing they're at least 10 years older.

RoverOn!

jeff
==
 Jeffrey A. Berg   Purple Shark Media         Rowayton, CT
                  jeff@purpleshark.com
                   ==================
	Ia oro te natura
	E mea arofa teie ao nei
	Ua oau te maitai no te fenua
	Te vai noa ra te ora o te mitie
		--Jimmy Buffett, One Particular Harbour

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 08:44:29 +1000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 17:05:17 -0600
Subject: Ethics 101
I recently sold my 1995 GMC Sierra 4x4 club cab with 90K miles and.....
and I honestly knew of no mechanical problems with the truck.
What should I do?
Should I help to pay some of the replacements costs or what?

If you honestly did not know of any problem and you gave him free and open
ability to enquire of the mechanics who had maintained it (and would be in
the position to know if it could be known) I din't know what else you could
have done

I think legally you have certainly held up your part of the deal, and, I'm
pleased to say, morally too - its good to see someone looking at the moral
aspects rather than just what they can legally get away with

If he got the car $4k under market and had to pay $1300 to fix he's still
well ahead

good on you for caring

richard
----

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Message-ID: <3665C22D.EDCA3652@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:41:50 -0400
From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; U)
X-Accept-Language: en
MIME-Version: 1.0
Subject: Re: 95 Discovery advice
References: <bulk.5328.19981202093102@Land-Rover.Team.Net>

Daniel Villeneuve wrote:

> Hello,
> I am considering the purchase of 95 Discovery with
> 80,000km.  It looks imaculate, is fully equiped and above
> all drives like a charm.  I do not know those vehicules that
> well hence this e-mail.
> I would use it mostly on regular roads with the occasional
> rough dirt road to go fishing and camping.  Any info,
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> Montreal, Canada
> http://www.aei.ca/~davil

The Discovery is a great highway vehicle and will serve you well but don't
over look it's offroad  capabilities. Of all the vehicle in its class it is
the strongest and the most able. If you are nervous about using an expensive
car this way come to some of the Land Rover events and watch how it is done.
There is a load of fun just waiting for you.
  John and Muddy

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:51:50 -0000
Subject: Re: Block heaters and seetz

My apologies for mixing you up with those ungrateful rebel types over the
river.
 It's the accent you write with, it all sounds the same to us back here.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:02:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Ethics 101

Caviat Emptor baby.

Later,

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
www.DreamLab.cc

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:53:37 EST
Subject: Need partz

Hi y'all,
The saga of my ill-planned seatbelt installation continues:

Anyone got the brackets to anchor the bottom of the seatbelt?  RN #  345101
and 345100?  They're in everything, so does anyone have a parter-outer they'd
like to part out to me?

Bill Rice
Columbus GA (all the apartment windows open and a bit too warm on 2 Dec)
109SW

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:59:28 -0700
Subject: Re: Sighting Aardvark!!!

That's Art Bitterman. He lives in Trinidad I believe.

Steve Fullwood wrote:
;> 
;> Hi,
;>         I saw a SIIa 88" red rover with "Aardvark" across the back on
the
;> interstate just south of Pueblo, CO on wed before thanksgivng.  Flew
past
;> him in the Jetta.  That is one cool rover.  Looks very well equipped
for
;> anything. Thumbs up to the owner.

Jim Hall

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:09:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Need partz

On Wed, 2 Dec 1998 Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:

:Anyone got the brackets to anchor the bottom of the seatbelt?  RN #  345101
:and 345100?  They're in everything, so does anyone have a parter-outer they'd
:like to part out to me?

Everything but Mrs. Merdle, it appears.  I hope you are putting seatbelts
in back too?  Your rear-seat roll-over victims^W^W^Wpassengers wouldn't
mind.  Trust me.

David

Mr sinclair says "What's a seat belt?"

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 20:43:44 -0700
Subject: re: Sighting Aardvark

Steve wrote:

Hi,
        I saw a SIIa 88" red rover with "Aardvark" across the back on
the
interstate just south of Pueblo, CO on wed before thanksgivng.  Flew
past
him in the Jetta.  That is one cool rover.  Looks very well equipped for

anything. Thumbs up to the owner.

Steve Fullwood
1961 88" SII softtop

Yep-that was me!! Was probaly doing my best at about 60 mph!!

You got me blushing from the praise!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: David <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:53:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts 

>From: dbobeck@ushmm.org

>Can someone with the II/IIA manual please confirm or deny the existence of
>the torque specifications?
>thank you
>the management

Dear Management,

I have the two volume "Land Rover Series II & IIA Repair Operation Manual"
part no. AKM8159. Both part 1 and part 2 are green. My SWB is green also
but not Green. The repair manual is copyrighted to the Rover Group Limited
and "published by Brooklands Books Limited under licence and is based upon
text and illustrations protected by Copyright Land Rover Limited..."

There is no section listed in the Index to Sections, index, or anywhere
else that is specifically dedicated to torque settings. Torque settings are
listed in the text of each repair operation.

There are no torque settings listed for the "Shackle pin" or "Self-locking
nut" in the suspension section.

The "stub shaft securing nut" (listed as "Fixings, driving member to axle
stub shaft" in Fig. F1-7 on page 8-F) is tightened to 10-15 lb ft and
"secured with a new split pin."

Personally, I can't see how anyone could possibly survive without this
repair manual--especially because it's clearly laid out, with pictures.
This is especially helpfull for the less mechanically inclined of us.

YMMV

Cheers,

David Russell
Member: OVLR, R.O.V.E.R.S. and the MostlyMetro group
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol, green; in progress
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:33:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts 

On Wed, 2 Dec 1998, David wrote:

:Personally, I can't see how anyone could possibly survive without this
:repair manual--especially because it's clearly laid out, with pictures.
:This is especially helpfull for the less mechanically inclined of us.

I can see pretty clearly how someone could survive without the workshop
manual.  The only times I look at it are too look up something, like a
torque spec, which are mostly not existant in the two part, white, SII and
IIA workshop manual.  If I were rebuilding an engine or gearbox, I would
look at a lot more often.  But for the sort of things I have been doing
lately, brakes and electics, I haven't looked at it.  When there is snow
on the ground, and I have to do something like take a diff off, it is nice
to look and see which tools I need before I go freeze.

David

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:58:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts

Hi David (s)
	Right Dave S.! - I have had my rover for 1.5 years and about 9000
miles (not much compared to some of you, I know) and rely on it for my only
transport, but in that time I've managed to, with the help of you all, and
the blue haynes book, to entirely rebuild the clutch and brake hydraulics,
brakes, carburator rebuild, alternator install, hub seals, water pump,
radiator, fuel pumps, wiring etc. etc. etc...  Not to forget my recent
attempts at valve adjusting!
	Frankly I can't afford to buy the two part workshop manual.  I'd
rather pester all of you!! And then spend the little I have on rover parts,
beer, pizza, tools, beer, rover parts, 90wt, another spare rover, more
tools, beer, more 90wt...
	Besides, I'm mechanically inclined, and I don't need no stinking
diagrams!  Just gimme the f-ing torque settings!    ;    )

Cheers - Peter

>David R. said;
>:Personally, I can't see how anyone could possibly survive without this
>:repair manual--especially because it's clearly laid out, with pictures.
>:This is especially helpfull for the less mechanically inclined of us.
>Dave S. said;
>I can see pretty clearly how someone could survive without the workshop
>manual.  The only times I look at it are too look up something, like a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>on the ground, and I have to do something like take a diff off, it is nice
>to look and see which tools I need before I go freeze.

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Brian G. Holmes" <b-sholmes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:17:38 -0800
Subject: Re: Sighting Aardvark!!!

I second that! (also take credit for 'customizing' the Aardvark front
bumper and frame horns :-( )
Cheers, 
Brian

----------

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From: Paul Archibald <paarch@jps.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:31:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Sadly I have to leave the fold for a while ;-(

        Just a note of thanks to any and all the members of the list that
have been able to give advice that has helped me with my land-rovers over time.
        
After selling the  '58 MGA and the '87 Rangie in the last coupla years,
Sadly I bid farewell to you all as I have recently sold my last british
car(Surely my beloved '58 rhd 88")(Minus the mercruiser-hybrid powerplant
that i was ready to install.) to fellow Mendo-Recce list member(and maybe
lro too?)Brian Foster, to help the puchasing of our first house, and I would
not have time to wrench on the beast for a few years. I will be back in a
few years with the purchase of a 109 with room for the girls to go with us,
maybe a dormobile if I can find one that Nick hasn't bought.

 I will miss the banter that has gone back and forth over the years.

Regarding the Engine:(Sorry Bill for the advertisment)
I bought a rebuilt mercruiser 140 engine(yes the 181ci one derived from the
old chevy 153 from tne Nova-II days.) with 20 hours on it. After some
research into manifolds that would enable the use of the huge valve head, I
ended up looking for a newer chevy engine that had a head that would fit as
the old 153 engines are getting almost as scarce as Rover  two-litre
engines. Turns out that the Pontiac Sunbird in '79(Supposedly a 151
according to the books) had a head that mated up perfectly and it has a
manifold that will take the Weber Two-barrel.
Well to make a long story short, e-mail me for the details, but basicly, I
tore the mercruiser apart, had it re-built again so all is fresh(wasn't it
already? ;-)) and had the Sunbird head re-built as well. 
I also have a Scotty's conversion that might be available as well for the
right price.

 The engine has not even left the assembly bench in the garage and has a
protective coat of bearing/cam lube on all important surfaces.Oil pump
packed etc..

Anyone willing or interested in contacting me, see below.

Paul

P.S. Note the following:

>>>> unsubscribe lro-digest
Succeeded.
>>>> unsubscribe lro-digest
so no one can start flaming me as long as the major says it is so!  ;-)
I just never did understand why people had so much trouble unsubscribing.

See y'all soon(translated-five years)

Paul Archibald
paarch@jps.net
home 510/353-1320
work 408/998-4445 ext 139  (R. W. James Packaging Corp.) Wooden
boxes/crates, shock and vibration testing, packaging supplies, etc.....

Living vicariously through others for a while!!!! ;-(

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 08:35:08 +0200
Subject: Re: Fuel pump oil seal

> deteriorate in the hot, oily environment. Would the dust cover, designed
> for brake fluid, be OK?

Johan the dust covers over the brake cylinders on our SIII were 
about 10 years old and covered in about 5 years' worth of EP90 
from very leaky hub seals when I did the seals and brakes 2 years 
ago.  The EP90 did not appear to be attacking the rubber covers.  
Heat and engine oil I can't account for.  The EP90 did seem to have 
made what was left of the brake shoes soft, though.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: Paul Archibald <paarch@jps.net>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:56:29 -0800 (PST)
Subject: RE:Sadly I have to leave the fold for a while ;-(

       Hey guys, Obviously since I am unsubscribed now please reply to me
privately as I will not be getting any more lro digest for a long time

Kinda forgot to say that, but it should be obvious

 Just a note of thanks to any and all the members of the list that have been
able to give advice that has helped me with my land-rovers over time.....
Snip 
snip
.....I also have a Scotty's conversion that might be available as well for
the right price.

 The engine has not even left the assembly bench in the garage and has a
protective coat of bearing/cam lube on all important surfaces.Oil pump
packed etc..

Anyone willing or interested in contacting me, see below.

Paul

P.S. Note the following:

>>>> unsubscribe lro-digest
Succeeded.
>>>> unsubscribe lro-digest
so no one can start flaming me as long as the major says it is so!  ;-)
I just never did understand why people had so much trouble unsubscribing.

See y'all soon(translated-five years)

Paul Archibald
paarch@jps.net
home 510/353-1320
work 408/998-4445 ext 139  (R. W. James Packaging Corp.) Wooden
boxes/crates, shock and vibration testing, packaging supplies, etc.....

Living vicariously through others for a while!!!! ;-(

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 08:23:26 -0000
Subject: RE: Block heaters 

Many years ago when I used to have a part time job 
working on a farm we used to use a special parrafin 
heater which we put on the floor beneath the engine of 
the tractor last thing at night.

This tiny heater (didn't use more than a pint of paraffin per 
night) used to produce just enough heat to keep the 
block above freezing. It didn't produce much heat, in fact 
you could hold you hand under the engine with the heater 
lit and not burn your hand but it worked. The flame was 
protected by a gauze cover so it wouldn't blow out.

You probably can't get this sort of thing anymore: 
Probably illegal now!

Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 20:40:17 +1100
Subject: Fuel pump oil seal

Johan van Staden wrote:
>I need to replace the little rubber oil seal inside the fuel pump of
>a SII 2.25 4 cylinder Land Rover. The fuel pump kit obtainable
>locally does not contain this seal.

I don't have a Series Rover but I assume they use the ubiquitous AC
mechanical pump.  I had a look at the cross sectional drawing of an AC pump
as used in Hillmans and I assune you are referring to the seal below the
diaphragm through which the diaphragm rod goes.

I can't see that this seal is too important providing there is no leakage
of petrol to get into the sump.  The only way petrol would leak is if the
diaphragm is damaged.

I would worry about the seal.

Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto  "The Last Aquila"
check my web site at www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
Webmaster Land Rover Owners Club of Australia (Sydney Branch)
Webmaster Hillman Owners Club of Australia

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