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From: "Johan van Staden" <jcvs@postino.up.ac.za>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:18:00 +0200
Subject: Fuel pump oil seal

I need to replace the little rubber oil seal inside the fuel pump of a SII
2.25 4 cylinder Land Rover. The fuel pump kit obtainable locally does not
contain this seal. The dealers want me to buy a new fuel pump. One would
expect this kind of thing from other cars, but not from Land Rover. The seal
is easily accessible, should be cheap, and is a piece of cake to replace,
only nobody has it. I could not find a part number either. Could list
readers please direct me to source for this thingy or perhaps suggest an
alternative solution. It is a matter of principle.

Johan van Staden
Gold Fields Computer Centre for Education
Faculty of Science, University of Pretoria
Pretoria, 0002
South Africa
Tel: +12 420 2470 Fax; +12 420 3874

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 98 06:35:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Fuel pump oil seal

>I need to replace the little rubber oil seal inside the fuel pump of a SII
>2.25 4 cylinder Land Rover. 

;
For some unknown reason they evidently made the seal out of a material 
called unobtainioum.  The the best of my  knowledge they are completely 
unobtainable.

However, around five years ago one of our local legends, Ben Smith, made 
a field repair of his fuel pump using a dust cover seal from a wheel 
cylinder rebuild kit.  It is my understanding that the temperary seal is 
still in there working fine.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:35:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Fuel pump oil seal

Re: Seal:

Dunno as I've ever seen a source for it, but a friend of mine (hello Ben Smith!)
used the cup from a brake rebuild kit, punched with a suitable hole, for one for
a few years and he said it worked nicely.

Ben, care to elaborate?

                    ajr

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From: Ray Harder <ccray@showme.missouri.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 08:36:52 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: Fuel pump oil seal

On Tue, 1 Dec 1998, Johan van Staden wrote:
> Subject: Fuel pump oil seal
> alternative solution. It is a matter of principle.
                        ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
johan, is it me getting older, or society changing without
me.  i am bumping into this more and more on the order
of 2-3 times per week.  i feel like walter in 'the big labonski'

i'm all for you -- hope you can find a good solution...

Sincerely,

Ray Harder 

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:34:39 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Info on Heaters

I found some info I thought you all might be interested in;

DREISON INTERNATIONAL MARADYNE MOBILE PRODUCTS
6501 Barberton Ave; Cleveland, OH USA 44102
(216) 281-7810

I have the model 6500 and (I think) 6000, which you should see on this link;
http://www.heco.net/Heaters.html

Other info I turned up, which I didn't last fall;

ESPAR, INC
6435 Kestrel Rd; Mississauga, ONT CAN L5T 1Z8
(800) 387-4800
Fax: (905) 670-0728

MOBIL CLIMATE CONTROL, INC
30 Ritin Lane; Concord, ONT CAN L4K 4C5
(905) 738-0820

PHILLIPS & TEMRO INDUSTRIES, INC
9700 W 74th St; Eden Prairie, MN USA 55345
(612) 941-9700
Fax: (612) 941-2285

RACOR, DIVISION OF PARKER HANNIFIN CORPORATION
3400 Finch Rd, PO Box 3208; Modesto, CA USA 95353
(800) 344-3286 (209) 521-7860
Fax: (209) 529-3278

RED DOT CORPORATION
PO Box 58270; Seattle, WA USA 98138
(206) 575-3840

Hope that helps - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 07:37:22 -0800
Subject: manuals

>From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
>Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:57:28 +0000
>Subject: Re: Non-charging solved 

Hi Alan,
I have the shop manuals and also the Haynes, The Haynes that I have has a
wiring diagram that appears to be a copy of the shop manual and is a little
larger and easier to read.
In fact the Haynes seems to be a pretty good book for most things.
Here in the states, we have chilton for most cars and it is pretty
miserable compared to Haynes.
Bob B

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 07:46:04 -0800
Subject: Positive Crancase Ventilation valve

>From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
>Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:20:11 EST
>Subject: Re: PCV system
> engine or the 67 in my 88 have PCV - however the 72 SIII engine I just
>swapped
> out had it.
>Tough one: I've personally seen '64-'65 MGB's/TR-4's with OEM PCV valves, but
>it memory serves me well, they weren't really mandated until 1967 - 1968
MGB's
>went to air rails/pumps, 1970 saw the dreaded charcoal cannisters. At least,
>this is how it went here in Kalifornia.

My California 69 had the pcv but no cannister, a 70 also had the cannister.
I don't understand what is the flame trap that Nate >NADdMD@aol.com<,
refers to. Unless it's incase you live too close to DBobeck. :^)

Bob B

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From: "Neil Sheridan" <neilsheridan@nac.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:46:33 -0500
Subject: Stainless Steel Window Channels

Hi All!

I went looking for a "ship's chandler" to find the stainless steel window
channels as has been recommended on the list and the FAQ.

Here in the NYC harbor area, a chandler is a firm that specializes in
repairing ocean-going freighters and battleships, etc.  Perhaps inland and
overseas it relates to a more recreational boat repair shop.

Instead, go to any marina and ask to see their parts catalogues for boat
hardware.

I paid $2.20 a foot after haggling a bit.  Very thin metal walls that look
more like chrome, but nice nylon strip for the bottom runner and
durable-looking nylon fuzz on the sidewalls.  No apparent biological
materials to support moss growth, rot, and rust but I suppose that given
time and dusty winds the right conditions to support life could develop.

I have taken the skins off a new set of doortops to galvanize them, then
will install the channels.  Hopefully the windows will be sliding when
desired long after gasoline has disappeared from the planet.

Due to the amount of time I'm putting into the truck, I've stopped reading
the list regularly.  If anyone wants to drop me a line please write
directly.

Thanks,

Neil Sheridan

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From: "Neil Sheridan" <neilsheridan@nac.net>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:35:16 -0500
Subject: Alan Bishop's Halogen Question

Alan Bishop writes about using halogen headlamp bulbs...

Alan,

I left my headlights stock and picked up a pair of Hella driving lights (for
on-road use to supplement the high beams).  Comes with all the relays and
easy color coded instructions for wiring.  About US60 here, but I imagine
that there are similar kits.  Look for a simple round housing 7 - 8".  I
made a bar that I bolted through the framehorns, but if you still have your
valance, you could use that.

I thought a prepared kit was a better idea than experimentation.

Any questions, feel free to write back direct.  I'm so busy trying to
reassemble the Rover, I hardly read the list at all.

Incidentally, I bought the kit because the headlights were so dim.  When I
replaced the Lucas generator with a 63 amp alternator and replaced the
high/low floor switch, my lights seemingly doubled in brightness.

Neil Sheridan
65 IIA 88 "Dreadnought"
56 I 109 "Anti-Christine"

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 11:10:30 -0500
Subject: Lucas A1811 Alternator

"Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu> wrote:

>Anybody using one of these in a series?  It supposedly puts out 43 amps.
>What do you think is the max draw that can be safely drawn without early
>burnout?

Yup...I'm running with a Lucas ACR18...and 43 amps sounds about right.
Came as original equipment on some Jags of the same period.  Same
dimensions as the ACR16, just a few more turns of wire, I suppose.  If your
vehicle exceeds this in current draw, you start sucking juice out of the
battery.  Years ago, I tried to figure out the vehicle's total electrical
load *before* hooking up additional lighting.  Anybody else done the math?

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  |                                                   |
  |   (original owner)        (pre-production)        | 
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 11:10:32 -0500
Subject: Emission plumbing

Stude, Herman L." <HermanS@krts.com> wrote:

>I'm new to all this emmissions plumbing stuff, on my SIII 88 petrol I've
>got this little canister that looks like it has some sort of vent hose
>attached.  In theory what does it do and what is the correct plumbing,
>and what happens if I yank it?  It does not appear in my official LR
>manuals.

This stuff came about with the Series III.  There is a vent on the top of
the fuel tank that runs across the frame to a trapezoidal "expansion tank"
tucked up under the wheel arch on the left side.  A stiff plastic tube runs
from the top of that to the charcoal canister.  In theory, any excess
petrol fumes will condense in the expansion tank and drain back.  The fuel
tank is vented through the same plumbing, as the filler cap is supposedly a
"sealed" type (three external locking lugs).  

and Dave B. wrote:

>where does the PCV vlave go into the manifold? on my manifold there is
>only one place for this and that is in front of the carb, where the brake
>booster hose  attaches. 

There is an additional aluminium "spacer" about 3/8 or 1/2" thick at the
base of the carb and I don't mean that bakelite piece that separates the
carb and the manifold.  The PCV valve is tapped into this piece.  This also
make a convenient place if you are going to add that Ampco oil injector
(1940's technology that helps us with non-stellite heads survive in this
world of unleaded petrol)

>connecting  the PCV valve to the mainfold side of the equation 
>means that only one or two cylinders are gettting the blow-by fumes, and
>may  potentially be running slighlty differently, or getting a build up
>of crud (?) in them. I think.

Exactly...which is why you have to go to the carb base so the funkus can be
distributed evenly to all four cylinders.  As I recall a few months
(years?) back, someone was having carb icing problems and the proper PCV
valve/cover breather plumbing fixed it....

Cheers

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:14:31 EST
Subject: Re: Positive Crancase Ventilation valve

In a message dated 98-12-01 10:45:30 EST, you write:

<< My California 69 had the pcv but no cannister, a 70 also had the cannister.
 I don't understand what is the flame trap that Nate >NADdMD@aol.com<,
 refers to. Unless it's incase you live too close to DBobeck. :^)
 >>

This is getting interesting:

'68/'69 B's DID NOT have a PCV valve, but rather, a gulp valve, and a check
valve (or, extra air valve)! The PCV was discontinued in favor of this setup,
along with the air rail/air pump. The former was mounted on top of the intake
manifold and had hoses running from the manifold to it, then to the air pump,
and a vacum line from it, to the front carb: the latter was mounted in-line on
the air rail.

Of course, previous owners being what they are...

The charcoal cannister from 1970-on, was part of an "fuel evaporative-loss"
system, in which (I believe) fumes from the fuel tank would run through it,
and the filtered air from the cannister, would feed back into the intake
manifold...or something like that

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:18:06 EST
Subject: Re: Re[2]: PCP^hV

In a message dated 98-11-30 15:57:17 EST, you write:

<< True, but can it be done for less than the $120-150 it would cost me to get
a 
 >PCV assembly and associated rigging?
 >>

...Just one more reason why I love my diesel!

Charles

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 98 11:43:07 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Positive Crancase Ventilation valve 

In a message dated 98-12-01 10:45:30 EST, you write:

<< My California 69 had the pcv but no cannister, a 70 also had the cannister.
 I don't understand what is the flame trap that Nate >NADdMD@aol.com<, 
 refers to. Unless it's incase you live too close to DBobeck. :^)
 >>
>The charcoal cannister from 1970-on, was part of an "fuel evaporative-loss" 
>system, in which (I believe) fumes from the fuel tank would run through it, 
>and the filtered air from the cannister, etc...

yup. my fuel tank was replaced somewhere along the line with one that didn't 
have a hole for the hose to the canister, so I took it upon myself to "can" the 
canister. actually its in my basement if anybody wants it. Name your price. 
Could be a museum piece...

and btw, yes you do need a flame trap if you live near me...but some of my 
neighbors are worse, its amazing what I've seen them do with a blow

torch...

later
dave

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:41:48 EST
Subject: PCV: I'll do it my way...

After doing a bit of research into all this PCV stuff, and being the cheap
b@st@rd I am, I'm going to swap over the old filler tube and valve cover cap
and run it that way until I can find the missing bits at a bargain price.  

Newer vehicles with computer controlled emissions will barf at doing this and
give all sorts of error codes, but as luck would have it, LR's are blissfully
free of these sh!tty little computers.

Nate

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 98 11:48:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Emission plumbing 

 

>There is an additional aluminium "spacer" about 3/8 or 1/2" thick at the 
>base of the carb and I don't mean that bakelite piece that separates the 
>carb and the manifold.  The PCV valve is tapped into this piece.

Hey! I knew that!
That's why I was inquiring about an extra hole in the manifold. I thought 
they all went into the carb base.

>Exactly...which is why you have to go to the carb base so the funkus can 
>be distributed evenly to all four cylinders. 

knew that too...

> As I recall a few months (years?) back, someone was having carb icing 
>problems and the proper PCV valve/cover breather plumbing fixed it....

but not that.
I thikn whoever it was that had the PCV plumbing i was inquiring about has 
stated that there have bben no problems. Oh well, so much for theory. The facts 
speak. I'm still sticking to the standard set up though.

btw, ajr, you said you had carb icing problems due to the valve cover breather 
being routed to the intake elbow? which "nipple" was it attached to and how was 
the PCV valve set up?

just wunnerin

later
dave

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:56:36 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Stainless Window Channel

Neil wrote:
***
marina and ask to see their parts catalogues for boat hardware. I paid
$2.20 a foot after haggling a bit.  Very thin metal walls that look more
like chrome, but nice nylon strip for the bottom runner and
durable-looking nylon fuzz on the sidewalls.
***

um, again folks for those that didn't flinch the first time...one
supplier *who sponsors this list* sells the stuff for $9.95 for a
two meter length.  One two meter strip does a single door top with
about six inches to spare.

And a hint from someone who just did this job...drill your holes 
bigger than you think you need to (make 'em just smaller than the
head of your new screws) so the screw sits down within the channel
and doesn't rub up against the window glass.

rd/nige

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:59:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Emission plumbing

Dave yammers:

btw, ajr, you said you had carb icing problems due to the valve cover breather
being routed to the intake elbow? which "nipple" was it attached to and how was
the PCV valve set up?

just wunnerin

later
dave

OK, the valve cover breather went to the carb intake elbow tube that sits
dead-center of the intake. The tube it was connected to was the one that you see
if you look into the carburettor end of the carb. elbow.

That was a direct hose connection.

The bottom of the PCV was connected through a righ-angle tube directly into the
carb. adapter base for my Weber - the other end of the PCV connected to the
steel tube that ran down to the base of the oil-filler line.

That was it.

          ajr

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:25:41 -0800 
Subject: Re: Charcoal Cannister

From: "Stude, Herman L." <HermanS@krts.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:47:09 -0600
Subject: Charcoal Cannister

>I'm new to all this emmissions plumbing stuff, on my SIII 88 petrol I've
got this little canister that looks like it has some sort of vent hose
attached.  In theory what does it do and what is the correct plumbing,
and what happens if I yank it?  It does not appear in my official LR
manuals.

The canister you refer to is a charcoal filter.  The US-spec Series III had
a sort of cobbled together emissions control system to meet the US emissions
requirements that were in force in the early 1970s.  Part of these
requirements called for no fuel tank vapors escaping into the atmosphere.
As a result, the original US-spec Series III fuel tanks were fitted with a
breather tube that ran forward to the engine compartment and to the charcoal
canister.  The vehicle was also fitted with a special fuel filler cap which
does not allow any air in, or vapors out, of the filler neck.

The tank has to "breathe" of course, otherwise the partial vacuum resulting
from the dropping fuel level will overpower the fuel pump's ability to pull
fuel from the tank and the engine will stop.  But if air can come into the
tank, vapors can get out.  Hence the charcoal filter.  When the tank needed
air, it was pulled in through the filter.  When fuel vapors went the other
direction, they were "scrubbed" by the charcoal, which somehow reduced
whatever evil element was in the vapor to a level acceptable to the
government.  You were supposed to replace the charcoal canister every so
often to maintain its effectiveness.  Vehicles still use this system today:
I believe my 1991 Range Rover has pretty much the same setup on it.

Can you remove the charcoal filter?  Yes.  What happens?  Nothing, unless
someone with the proper instrumentation measures the amount of fuel vapors
emanating from your vehicle.  But don't plug the breather tube to the tank,
or your engine will stop at inopportune moments.  The "normal" Series III
fuel tank doesn't have the breather tube connection on it because the tank
is vented via a hole in the filler cap or the filler neck or in some other
way I don't know about.  In any event, when I replaced my original emissions
fuel tank with a normal tank in the mid-1980s, I pulled the now useless
breather tube and charcoal canister out of the vehicle.  The tank still
needed to be vented, however, so I simply removed the rubber sealing gasket
from the original fuel cap.  The cap fit is loose enough now to let air into
the tank when it's needed, but tight enough to prevent any noticeable degree
of fuel evaporation.

If you are still running the original tank, I suggest you might want to
retain the charcoal filter, not because it's really doing anything, but
simply because it will help prevent dust, dirt, and bugs from making their
way down the breather tube into the fuel tank.  If you do not have the
original emissions tank, and the filter and breather tube are not connected
anymore, by all means pull them out.  They just get in the way.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 98 12:32:01 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Emission plumbing 

al yammers back:
>OK, the valve cover breather went to the carb intake elbow tube that sits 
>dead-center of the intake. The tube it was connected to was the one that you 
>see if you look into the carburettor end of the carb. elbow.

so this is the one that goes into the elbow at an angle?

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 12:33:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Re[2]: Emission plumbing

Dave asks once more re: breather setup:

>so this is the one that goes into the elbow at an angle?

Yes - I set it up exactly as the Series III (which is what that motor came
from). Mike L. Faxed me the routing of the hoses, and I copied them exactly.

                         ajr

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 98 12:39:42 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Charcoal Cannister 

> I simply removed the rubber sealing gasket from the original fuel cap.  The 
>cap fit is loose enough now to let air into the tank when it's needed, but 
>tight enough to prevent any noticeable degree of fuel evaporation.

read of a fire that started from a gas leak due to a bad gasket here (vehicle 
went on its side). I simply drilled a pinhole (just in the inside, not all the 
way through) here to solve the same problem. I guess my pinhole could leak too. 
original caps had a little breather thingy with a screen in it. Can they leak 
as well? I wold imagine if the hole is small enuogh they might not. 

later
dave

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:48:18 -0800 
Subject: Re: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 14:17:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

>>I have been advised that if I am going to convert to halogen lights 
>then the wiring for the lights needs a rethink 'cos it's a real 
>mess. 

>Converting to halogen bulbs with the same wattage does NOT require ANY 
wiring changes.    For instance, if your old lamps have a 40 watt low 
beam and a 55 watt high beam and the halogen lamps have the same rating 
then the same amount of current is running through the lamps old or new 
system.

This is obviously correct.  One word of caution, however.  There is a
temptation with halogen headlights to run much brighter bulbs.  Instead of
the standard 55/65 bulbs, for instance, I've talked to people who wanted to
run 80/100 bulbs or whatever.  Don't do it, regardess of how beefy your
headlight wiring happens to be.  I tried it on my Range Rover for a few
weeks and found out why it's a bad idea.  The light output is fabulous, of
course, but the problem is heat.  The high-output bulbs are intended to be
run in lights that are mounted outside the vehicle: on a brush bar, light
bar, roof rack, etc.  In this position, there is a good flow of cooling air
around the housing.  Most headlights, and certainly the ones in Land Rovers
and Range Rovers, are recessed into the body where there is virtually no
cooling air flowing around the housings.  You would not believe how hot the
lenses get even on the "low" filaments.  When I installed these bulbs in my
Range Rover, I could not touch the lenses with my hand they were so hot,
even on low beam.  Fortunately, it never rained during the time I had the
high-output bulbs in the vehicle: I don't know what the results would have
been of cold rain hitting those incredibly hot lenses.

In any event, the low beam filaments fried themselves as a result of the
excess heat within a week or so, probably saving my wiring and relays, and I
went back to the 55/65 bulbs, which still put out a much better and brighter
light pattern that the factory-original sealed beam headlights.  But the
heat difference is dramatic: with 55/65 bulbs I can put my hand flat on the
lenses and keep it there, even with the high beam filaments on.  So be
careful when you start messing around with trying to get more light output
from your headlights, and think about the heat as well as the wiring.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Steve Rochna" <rover@mail.oasisol.com>
Date: Tue,  1 Dec 98 09:28:43 PDT
Subject: Nevada Trophy

Does anyone know any details about this years Nevada Trophy?  I thought it was 
this coming weekend but cannot find any info.

Thanks - Steve

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 98 13:23:21 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: Emission plumbing 

>so this is the one that goes into the elbow at an angle?
>Yes - I set it up exactly as the Series III (which is what that motor came 
>from). Mike L. Faxed me the routing of the hoses, and I copied them 
>exactly.

I think the diagram is confusing, I vaguely remember somethin glike that. Valve 
cover *should* go to the right angle nip though. Also the SIII manuall only 
shows the oz version which i tihkn may be slihghty different. I'll have to look 
at mine tonight. Not that it realy matters anymore...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 14:02:00 EST
Subject: Re: PCV: I'll do it my way...

Nate,

I've got the charcoal cannister, cannister support bracket, misc. hoses
including the flame trap, a PCV assembly, and the triangular can that goes in
the wheel well.  All came off a salvaged vehicle.  Interested?

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 14:34:13 -0500
Subject: Re: Stainless Window Channel

Russell G. Dushin wrote:
> And a hint from someone who just did this job...drill your holes
> bigger than you think you need to (make 'em just smaller than the
> head of your new screws) so the screw sits down within the channel
> and doesn't rub up against the window glass.

Russ;
Why didn't you use a strong adhesive then there would be no worries
about those blasted screws.
Thats what I did on my series lll, it worked great
Rgds
Steve Bradke  68 lla
> rd/nige
> bigger than you think you need to (make 'em just smaller than the
> head of your new screws) so the screw sits down within the channel
> and doesn't rub up against the window glass.

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From: kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 14:44:05 -0500 
Subject: RE: Nevada Trophy

Steve - 

I found this on the LRX Message Board.

- Kevin
____________________

Posted by wcbr@thegrid.net ORE/LROA on November 27, 1998 at 01:40:40

Well, it's almost time for the NEVADA TROPHY 98. Last week we finished the
course and tonight I finished the route books. So why aren't YOU entered? 20
Land Rovers will compete....

A few entrant hopefuls are STILL searching for a Navigator... Interested?
Call 925-606-8301.

Day-1: 12 hours of waypoint searching on & off-road.
Day-2: Special Tasks ala Camel Trophy (of sorts), followed by another 12
hours of waypoint searching. In addition we've included some special tasks
hidden @ waypoints! High score wins.

All vehicles are teamed up into pairs for safety reasons....
Required: A LR, gps, compass, map and some safety items. 
Call 925-606-8301 to enter.... or volunteer , watch up close. 

See YOU in Nevada.  

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:30:25 -0600
Subject: RE: Hub Castleated Nut - Oops!?

I would take a look at your axles as well.  I would think that tightening
them to 100 ft/lbs might have put a strain the the axle and caused some
twisting.

cwolfe

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:50:30 -1000
Subject: Re: Stainless Window Channel

>Russ;
>Why didn't you use a strong adhesive then there would be no worries
>about those blasted screws.
>Thats what I did on my series lll, it worked great
>Rgds
>Steve Bradke  68 lla

Just curious, what type of adhesive did you use?
Pete

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:31:41 -0500
Subject: Re: Stainless Window Channel

Peter Hope wrote:
> >Russ;
> >Why didn't you use a strong adhesive then there would be no worries
>          [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
> >Rgds
> Just curious, what type of adhesive did you use?
> Pete

Pete;
   I beleive it was good 'ol sub-flooring adhesive PL 2000
the tracks will be easily removed /replaced next time..at least easier
than getting out those $%#@!! screws
Rgds
Steve Bradke 68 lla

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From: "Russell G. Dushin" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:33:00 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Stainless Window Tracking

Steve asks: 
*** 
Russ; Why didn't you use a strong adhesive then there
would be no worries about those blasted screws.
Thats what I did on my series lll, it worked great
***

Uh, two reasons, I suppose:

1) The sliding window is held in by the window tracking...adhesive
let's go and in your lap it comes.
2) How easily will it come apart next time?  (ie if you resolve 
problem #1 you're now faced with #2)

and then there's the potentially lame reason that screwed in tracking
is stockesque.

r"whatever works for you"d/nige

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:55:59 -0000
Subject: Re: block heaters

not a bad idea, a genny, but again, do you have battery Powerpacks in the
States?
You charge them in the same fashion as a car battery then shove them in the
back of the motor for when you need power. They have 12 volt, 110 volt and
240 volt (our domestic system is 240) on demand.
You could use it at night, pull it out of the truck and stick it on charge
in the house then put it in that night when you get home.

Then again, why not just pull a lead from the nearest street lamp.
Oh yes, very funny, but a guy was just nicked in Manchester for running his
whole house from a nearby street lamp!!

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:58:18 -0000
Subject: Re: Seetbeltz and seetz

re: yr seetz, what is the cost of a pair of 110/Ninety seats in Ca? They fit
in the series motors.

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 22:04:06 -0000
Subject: Re: Burbank Ca.

Russ,
not fed up with the snow already ?

hey, sorry about the letters to the kids, life got a bit fraught and by the
time I had it together again I thought they might have forgotten - the
mindspan of children being what it is.
Can still do it, tho, if you think it would be nice for them...
or how about Christmas Cards?? (one each)
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 17:05:17 -0600
Subject: Ethics 101

I recently sold my 1995 GMC Sierra 4x4 club cab with 90K miles and the 350
engine.  I sold it for 11K, wich is about 4K under book.  I reduced price
because it was mechanically perfec(I thought), had pristine interior but had
a lot of minor ext cosmetic stuff (scratches in gel coat, small ding etc as
result of being working dog truck)

I honestly knew of nothing wrong with the mechanics of the truck.  I had all
maintainence and repairs done at the local GMC shop.  I refered the buyer to
this shop for all maintainence records and for their opinion of the truck.  

The buyer seems like a very nice man.  We all seemed happy at the end of the
deal.  

One week after the sale, he calls me to tell me that thew truck had problems
shifting (5 speed manual) and he took it took a local garage (not GMC) and
they told him that the main shaft of the transmission was worn where the
pilot bearing rides on it.  They told him that the transmission had to be
replaced so he went ahead and had them do it for 1300.00. Then he called me
and told me about it.

I feel awful.  The buyer seems like a nice fellow and I do not want to shaft
him (pun intended) however, I had no problems with the truck when I sold it
and I honestly knew of no mechanical problems with the truck.

What should I do?

Should I help to pay some of the replacements costs or what?

I want to do the right thing but I really do not have any extra cash and I
thought that I sold the truck at a good deal.  What is the right thing to
do?  I sure wish he had called me before the repair was done.  

Cwolfe

----

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 20:00:14 -0400
Subject: Re: Ethics 101

"Wolfe, Charles" wrote:

> I recently sold my 1995 GMC Sierra 4x4 club cab with 90K miles and the 350
> engine.  I sold it for 11K, wich is about 4K under book.  I reduced price
> because it was mechanically perfec(I thought), had pristine interior but had
> a lot of minor ext cosmetic stuff (scratches in gel coat, small ding etc as
> result of being working dog truck)
> I honestly knew of nothing wrong with the mechanics of the truck.  I had all
> maintainence and repairs done at the local GMC shop.  I refered the buyer to
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> do?  I sure wish he had called me before the repair was done.
> Cwolfe

Two things Charles. Did you mention anything about any sort of warrenty even
casually?
.              Was the sale on an " as is where is basis"?

The way I look at is, that by okaying the repair the new owner has accepted full
reponsibility. He didn't give you chance to refund the money and take the truck
back. He also didn't give you a chance to verify that the repair was really
needed.
   Tell him you do thing is is unfortunate that he bad luck so soon after
getting the truck and wish him well for the future.
  John and Muddy

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:56:28 -0800
Subject: spiders

Other than the splines, is there any size difference between regular
rover, and salsbury spider gears?

Jim Hall

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:15:12 -0800
Subject: Re: horn buttton 

Jim sorry to see WOI not listed as one of your usual suspects but we can
sell you a good used Series II horn button assembly for $20 plus $5.00 post
and pack. call us at 1-888-880-2600 if you still need it

----------
> From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: horn buttton 
> Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 10:09 AM
> This is a call for the SIIA horn button (plastic about 2" in dia.). I

don't
> need the whole steering wheel, I have finally gotton hold of a SII wire
> wheel in good shape. The only part not fixable is this horn button, I
would

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 15:42:00 -1000
Subject: Re: Ethics 101

I agree with what Joh C. said.  If he wanted you to help pay for it he
should have talked to you before ok'ing the repair.

Just to cover your self you should find out if your state has any sort of
lemon law.  Some states do and unless the sales receipt states "as is"  the
seller may be responsible for any problems with the vehicle 30-90 days after
the sale.
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:16:51 EST
Subject: Re: Happy Holiday freom over the watere..

In a message dated 98-11-27 18:42:08 EST, you write:

<< Hi guys,
 happy holiday and, I though you might like to learn more about your =
 history from the point of view of some English schoolchildren.
 I feel I have to add that these are not necessarily the brainiest in the =
 country.......
  >>

It is with some dismay that I submit that these children have at least as good
an understanding of our history as many of our own "not necessarily brainy"
offspring. It appears that the state of education in the english speaking
world is suffering a grave malady. We can only hope that future generations
will find the strength to reverse the trend. As for our generation we are much
to worried about who will support our lazy asses when we retire, hopefully
soon.

Bill (bemused, bothered and bewildered) Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 21:50:46 -0500
Subject: John Hong

John, are you on holiday again ? or are you still recieving mail ? if so on
what address, my  private mails have been returned.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 22:02:05 -0500
Subject: Heater identification

My 59 88 has a heater that is approx 6 inch square in cross section and
perhaps a foot long, it is fed with air from a fan assembly fitted under the
hood. The air passes through a steel duct from the passengers  side, the
duct is perhaps 2 inch by 3 inch. What type of heater is this ?
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 20:00:06 -0800
Subject: Re: Ethics 101

Wolfe, Charles wrote:

> I honestly knew of nothing wrong with the mechanics of the truck.

> What should I do?

Nothing.  It's just plain unfortunate hard luck that comes with buying used
vehicles.The other party already got a good price.  You didn't offer a warranty
and they bought it as is.  It's too bad but it's not anything to fret about.

Jeremy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 22:28:28 EST
Subject: Re: SOV's

In a message dated 98-11-29 00:51:00 EST, you write:

  But sometimes there is
  something good to say about a real small light weight 4x like our
 Rovers
  (content haha).  It's been a while but I think the old M151's had a
 total
  weight of only 1500lbs.
  Pete
 
  >>
Having spent a goodly amount of time under them at one point in my life I seem
to recall that about 200 pounds of that was grease zerks.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 23:21:18 EST
Subject: Re: Non-charging solved

In a message dated 98-11-30 11:08:09 EST, you write:

<< LR owners should be more self sufficient than this >>

HEAR HEAR!!!!! (and they should be able to spell "wrong")

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 22:37:57 EST
Subject: Re: Hesitating Rover

In a message dated 98-11-29 09:59:17 EST, you write:

<< Can anyone who is familiar with the Stromberg 175 CD2S carburettor
 please tell me if the air-valve diaphragm is leaking, I would get a
 hesitation during acceleration i.e. a "flat-spot".
 
 BTW, I have top-up the dashboard oil and ensure that the piston is not
 sticking but to no avail.
  >>

The diaphragms and pistons in the Strombergs are analogous to the pistons in
SU carburetors. If the diaphragm is broken the action of the piston will not
be correct and hesitation on acceleration might be one of the symptoms.
fortunately they are cheap, availablr and easy to replace.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 23:53:39 -0500
Subject: Re: Heater identification

William Leacock wrote:

> My 59 88 has a heater that is approx 6 inch square in cross section
> and
> perhaps a foot long, it is fed with air from a fan assembly fitted
> under the
> hood. The air passes through a steel duct from the passengers  side,
> the
> duct is perhaps 2 inch by 3 inch. What type of heater is this ?

It sounds like a common SII heater which has installed on this side of
the Atlantic. It was either the predecessor to the Kodiak heaters, or
the Mark I version of the Kodiak; can anyone clarify Kodiak heater
terminology? Do you have a screened oppening in the side of the right
front fender next to the radiator panel? If so, that was the air intake
for the heater and a cloth/spiral wire air hose (4" dia or so) ran
inside the fender to the heater unit. Our '60 SII SW has one of these
heaters, and has distinct evidence of originally been fitted with a
Smith's round heater at the factory. I've seen them is several other
SII's also.

A somewhatsimilar configuration heater is shown in the early SII/SIIA
optional equipment book. It however has a metal rectangular air duct
inside the front fender, and a different arrangement inside the cab. The
only one of these I heard of was in a SII Steve Stoneham had.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 17:09:00 -0800 
Subject: RE: Block heaters and seetz

not a bad idea, a genny, but again, do you have battery Powerpacks in the
States?

     Yup.  And we gotzem in Canada too.

You charge them in the same fashion as a car battery then shove them in the
back of the motor for when you need power. They have 12 volt, 110 volt and
240 volt (our domestic system is 240) on demand.
You could use it at night, pull it out of the truck and stick it on charge
in the house then put it in that night when you get home.

     I confess I hadn't thought about that.  They are cheap and compact, 
     which is good.  I have a few concerns though:
     1) how much power will one push out after soaking in -20 o4 -30 c for 
     a few hours (I could just bring it into work with me, I gues....)
     2) how many deep discharge cycles will one of these stand?
     3) how long will one supply a fairly current heavy blockheater?  If 
     one would run for 45 minutes to 1 hour, it would be easy to have it 
     set up with a timer to shut off after 1/2 hour or so.  It doesn't 
     alwyas take that much of a 'hit' to help the old engine go.

Then again, why not just pull a lead from the nearest street lamp.
Oh yes, very funny, but a guy was just nicked in Manchester for running his
whole house from a nearby street lamp!!

     Errr.. no street lamps where I often work....
     
     Re: Seetz.  If I could get ahold of a set of defender high back seats 
     for cheap, I would jump at the chance. However, aftermarket ones from 
     Trakkars/Bat Fastards are pretty expensive once they get over to this 
     side of the pond, what with the exchange, shipping etc.  I would 
     *love* to get my hands on a set of high back early 90/110 seats for 
     about 50 pounds or so....
     
     Clinton

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From: Rovergo@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:54:33 EST
Subject: Re: burbank ca.

there are plenty of rover people in so. cal. heck im one and just 40 min from
burbank in the desert if you make the move bring your rover i will be glad to
show you some good offroading and at least 10 other series owners close to
burbank.
 Pat young
 65 2a 88".

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 01:05:51 EST
Subject: Re: block heaters

In a message dated 98-12-01 02:23:09 EST, you write:

      Now, why couldn't one mount a locked ammo box on the front fender a la 
      SAS desert patrol vehicle, insulate it and put one of the wee small 2 
      stroke generators in there?  They are pretty quiet (and would be 
      quiter inside an insulated box) and could run the block heater and a 
      remote interior heater.  Heck, I could even route the exhaust into the 
      engine bay to toast things up a bit....  The only trick is to make 
      sure that it would be able to take the load drawn by the various 
      heaters.  I figure 1/2 hour warm up would be sufficient.
      
      Hey. Some of them even have a 12V plug.  Now I bet it wouldn't take 
      much to get one to act as a 12V genny as well if the battery flattens 
      or the alternator goes to pot in the backwoods...
      
      Clinton >>
And you can do that for less than $700?

Bill lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:42:14 EST
Subject: Re: CB Master Cylinder 88 vs 109.

In a message dated 98-11-30 23:29:21 EST, you write:

 	I am going to rebuild my 109 CB master Cylinder this week.  I have
 several spare CB brake pedal/master cylinder assemblies in my barn.  It
 would be neato to be able to rebuild one of those and then still drive my
 rover and just do the old switcheroo.  Is there any easy way to tell is the
 CB Master Cylinder is for a 109 or an 88?
 
 	Cwolfe >>

The 88 master cylinder has a 7/8" bore while the 109 used a 1" bore. Most
cylinders will have some indication of bore size on the outside of the
cylinder.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Lawrence Lee <lawrencelee_tc@yahoo.com>
Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 02:19:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Hesitating Rover

To all that replied to my request on info about a holed diaphragm,
thanks.

Popped the top off the Stromberg, but diaphragm is intact, needle's
fine, etc. Enriched the fuel mix and it drives like a champ. However,
it's not gonna pass the emissions test - 7% CO - in order to drive
smoothly. Think I'll just drive it like that, thn lean it down just
before entering the inspection centre ;-) and hope I don't get stopped
for a spotcheck on the road.

==
Lawrence Lee
Blk 22, Sin Ming Road, # 11-216
Singapore 570022
Tel: (65) 456 7815   Mobile: 9 684 3678

Land Rover SerIII 109, 2.6l   "Kerbau"
A Malay name for Water Buffalo. One that PREFERS to stay in mud.

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