Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Peter Goundry <peterg@aircast.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 07:34:33 -0500
Subject: Importing from the UK

1973 is generally regarded as the last year of manufacture that you can
import without any hassles (25 year rule). This would preclude bringing
in a 110 unless you paid to have it brought up to the government
specification for that year. 

I noticed one of the list bulletins mentioned a 110, be careful, if a
vehicle is brought in illegally, customs has the right to sieze the
vehicle and destroy it leaving you up sh**s creek without a paddle. All
the big military dealers that advertise in LRO, LRW, & LRM will find and
prepare a legal vehicle for you and will arrange shipment to the US.
More and more people are doing it. E-mail me off-line if you want my
experiences

Peter Goundry
67 GS109" IIA, 73 Lightweight, 97 D90#127

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 08:31:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Big problems with Discovery [multipart mime alternative 8 lines 

Baris Kabuloglu Pla wrote:

> To whom it may concern,
> I own a 1998 Discovery SE7.  Even though I love Land Rovers and I love my
> car, i have had a series of problems that have surprised me.  And when I
> talk about problems, I mean REAL problems (electrical, mechanical,
> suspension, breaks, lots and lots of noises, etc.) at only 11000 Km. and 4.5
> month of owning my car.
> I already contacted Land Rover in M=E9xico City (I live in M=E9xico) to ask=
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 805 lines)]
> AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
> AAAAAAAAA

AS you have probably guessed by now attachments don't make it through the list.
The best way is to ask people to contact you so you can email the file
privately.
It seems to me that you got hold of a lemon and it should be fixed or replaced
under warrenty.
John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Norman Lewis <norm@kpco.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 06:38:52 -0700
Subject: Re: PCV system

My '65 88 (North American spec, built approx Oct 1964) had the PCV sytem
from new.  The LR was originally sold on the east coast.  You may not
find reference to these parts in the parts books, but you will likely
find reference to the system in the factory service bulletins.

Norm Lewis

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:11:46 +0000
Subject: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

I have been advised that if I am going to convert to halogen lights 
then the wiring for the lights needs a rethink 'cos it's a real 
mess. 

I was told the easiest way was to run a new supply from the battery, 
the question is what is needed in the way or relays? A simple 
explanation such as wire from battery to switch via relay then to 
light etc would be a great help. Also what else is needed to add a 
couple of extra spotlights on the front?

Sorry for the ignorance, 
TIA

Alan.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:16:47 +0000
Subject: Non-charging solved

I have to confess that the S2 went to see the mechanic on Saturday 
because the alternator stopped charging yet again. It took about 2 
hours to sort through the mess of wiring left by the PO. In the end 
it was traced to a dodgy connection where the main battery positive 
supply attaches to the switch on the bulkhead. I would never of 
found it. Needless to say I went home very happy - solved at last. 
Didn't cost too much either.

Any good recommendations for repair manuals with good wiring 
diagrams?

Kindest regards

Alan
(still a lot to learn but still enjoying it)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 09:18:01 EST
Subject: Re: sightings

Emil,

No one on the list, AFAIK.  It belongs to an Army Captain stationed at Fort
Lee, VA.  

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 07:38:33 -0800
Subject: pcv

>From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
>Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 06:29:21 -0500
>Subject: Re: PCV system
>Re: PCV in 64:

Hi,
My 69 had it of course. a 65 didn't and a 66 did have one.

Bob B

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 11:04:54 -0500
Subject: Re: Non-charging solved 

>I have to confess that the S2 went to see the mechanic on Saturday 
>because the alternator stopped charging yet again. 
>In the end it was traced to a dodgy connection where the main 
>battery positive supply attaches to the switch on the bulkhead.

one of the first places to look. always check all battery 
connections when there is a mysterious no-charging situation. 
Especially on LR's this is a very common problem. 

>Any good recommendations for repair manuals with good wiring 
>diagrams?

Yes. As has been discussed at much length in the previous few days, *buy the 
effin factory manual*. I can't imagine buying a vehicle like this and NOT 
picking up a copy of the bloody manual. What is worng with people? Did you 
think you weren't going to have to work on it? Keeeerist...
ok....deep breath....1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10.....

call Rovers North 1 802 879 0032.
Say "Hello, my name is Blank P. Blank, I have this vehicle and I would like a 
copy of the factory service manual for it please. Here is my credit card 
number, and oh yes please enter me in the restoration credit program now, thank 
you"

or....
be resourceful, and save money, (maybe) and get it from somewhere else, i.e., 
LRO bookshop, DAP, British Pacific, Atlantic British, Mid-Life Crisis Books 
(for real) or maybe even amazon.com.

gosh LR owners should be more self sufficient than this

rant over
daveb

 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:29:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: My Heaters

Hi All - I finally got my heaters hooked up over the long weekend.  Nice
and toasty.  I hooked them up in series.  Each heater needed two right
angle joints to prevent excess hoses, and to use existing holes, but they
seems to work fine.  Next project is to put in the 88 degree thermo for the
upstate winter, and insulate the roof.

Cheers - Peter

(Contact me off-list if you want to know where I got the heaters.)

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:31:22 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Lucas A1811 Alternator

Anybody using one of these in a series?  It supposedly puts out 43 amps.
What do you think is the max draw that can be safely drawn without early
burnout?

Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:37:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts

Hi - I had to do the front hub seals over the weekend.  I could not find a
reference for the  torque for the castleated nut under the hub cap.
Remember being told it is supposed to be 85, like the pinion seal nuts.  Is
that correct?  It is an early IIA.
The left one could not be touqued to 85 - and have the cotter pin line up.
It either had to be way under, or at 100.  I torqued it to 100.  Hope that
is OK?

Thanks in advance - Peter

(BTW - I found the inner seals locally - National / Federal Mogul)

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:57:28 +0000
Subject: Re: Non-charging solved 

>Any good recommendations for repair manuals with good wiring 
>diagrams?
Yes. As has been discussed at much length in the previous few days, *buy the 
effin factory manual*. I can't imagine buying a vehicle like this and NOT 
picking up a copy of the bloody manual. What is worng with people? Did you 
think you weren't going to have to work on it? Keeeerist...
ok....deep breath....1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10.....

Even I am not stupid enough not to have any manual - but I was naive 
enough to buy haines hence no good diagrams.!!!

Gee this list would no fun if no-one raved at you 
occasionally!!!!!!! Glad I am here

Kindest regards
Alan. 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 12:03:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts 

>Hi - I had to do the front hub seals over the weekend.  I could not find a 
>reference for the  torque for the castleated nut under the hub cap. 

I am beginning to wonder if the II/IIa manual is much different from the 
SIII manual (besides the obvious differences). In the SIII manual there is 
a section called "torque specifications" (imagine that) and that is where 
you can find al of the required torques settings, listed categorically by 
system ,i.e., front axle, rear, axle, steering, engine, etc...
I don't recall but I am fairly certain there is one lsited for the castel 
nut on the axle, but it is referred to a castle nut, hub flange, for the 
driving of, or something silly like that.
Can someone with the II/IIA manual please confirm or deny the existence of 
the torque specifications?

thank you
the management

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 10:04:05 -0700
Subject: Re: PCV

Just to muddy the waters a little, we have two Suffix D's, one '67 (without
PCV) and one '68 (with PCV).

-joseph and sidney (the '67)
missoula, mt

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:05:16 -0400
Subject: Re: Non-charging solved

dbobeck@ushmm.org wrote:

> >I have to confess that the S2 went to see the mechanic on Saturday
> >because the alternator stopped charging yet again.
> >In the end it was traced to a dodgy connection where the main
> >battery positive supply attaches to the switch on the bulkhead.
> one of the first places to look. always check all battery
> connections when there is a mysterious no-charging situation.
> Especially on LR's this is a very common problem.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> rant over
> daveb

Feeling better now Dave?  Amazing what a good rant will do for the blood 
pressure
isn't it.  : )
   John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:09:37 EST
Subject: Re: PCV

To add to all this,  I have a IIa which was a US import that has a flame trap
but no PCV.  Looks to be stock (2 nipples on the air intake elbow to which
both the valve cover cap and the oil filler tube connect.  Only the oil filler
tube is connected to the flame trap.

Nate

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:15:17 -0500
Subject: Visual Aides??

> Hi all, (if you are on the DELRC list - my apologies for the repeat.)
> I am at the point in my restoration process where things are going slowly
> and the thought:   "Gee, I really should have taken a picture of that from
> this angle" keeps popping into my head more often.
> In a nutshell, I'm on the downhill side of a complete restoration (seatbox
> forward 88" '67 IIA)... 

My footwells were trashed and the previous owner riveted sheet metal on
either side of the originals with a whole lot of goop to keep things in
place.  When I pulled the individual pieces off there was hardly anything
left.  So, I had new footwells welded into the bulkhead.  The problem I now
have is that the driver's side (LHD) footwell did not come with all of the
necessary holes for the pedals, steering column brackets, etc. (I think!)
and I do not have good pictures from pre-restoration time, old footwells are
useless, and I can't find anything in the shop manuals, books, catalogs, etc
that would help.  So, I turn to the lists for some assistance. 

Today's obstacle is on the accelerator linkage.  The pedal is connected to a
cylindrical rod which passes through the inboard side of the footwell.
There is also a small bracket which holds that rod to the front of the
footwell on the vertical face.  My questions are:  

> 1)Is the small bracket flush with inside of the pedal?
> 2)Do the bolts (1/4" X 5/8") which hold the bracket to the firewall also
> pass through one of the steering wheel column brackets on the engine
> compartment side? 
> I am thinking that the bracket is flush with the pedal which would keep
> the pedal from sliding in and that the bolts for the bracket pass through
> the firewall and through the smaller of the two steering wheel column
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 26 lines)]
> Some pictures of my project currently exist on:
> http://members.carol.net/murphyk/index/rover.html   Nothing fancy, though.
Kevin

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 12:18:52 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Non-charging solved  

>Even I am not stupid enough not to have any manual - but I was naive 
>enough to buy haines hence no good diagrams.!!!

hmmm...thoughtr haynes had em. of course yours has had an 
alternator bodged in so its likely the wiring has 
*changed* a bit. no doubt the colored cloth insulation has 
gone the way of cosmic dust and left you with a tangled 
mass of greazy black wires. Maybe someone should print up 
wiring diagrams that represent what you actually can 
expect to find..."hey, it says they're all black, and this 
one is supposed to be missing 24 inches of 
insulation"...great, zapp....zzt..zzzt..pooof...

>Gee this list would no fun if no-one raved at you 
>occasionally!!!!!!! Glad I am here

glad somebody around here "gets it". 
cheers
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:20:11 EST
Subject: Re: PCV system

In a message dated 98-11-30 06:30:11 EST, you write:

<< From what I can dredge from an already-shaky memory on a Monday, I believe
that
 PCV was an addition in the late IIA timeframe - late 60s. Neither my 64
petrol
 engine or the 67 in my 88 have PCV - however the 72 SIII engine I just
swapped
 out had it.
 
 Perhaps in Kalifornia or one of the excessively-enviroNazi states may have
had
 it back that far, but I doubt sincerely it was stock in the 64 timeframe.
 >>

Tough one: I've personally seen '64-'65 MGB's/TR-4's with OEM PCV valves, but
it memory serves me well, they weren't really mandated until 1967 - 1968 MGB's
went to air rails/pumps, 1970 saw the dreaded charcoal cannisters. At least,
this is how it went here in Kalifornia.

Emissions regs varied sooooo much back then, and even upto 1985 (have seen
carbureted SD-1's that were sold in the USA), so I'd honestly say that it is
possible to find an early SII/IIA with a PCV.

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:21:41 EST
Subject: Re: Lucas A1811 Alternator

I was kinda thinking about borrowing an alternator from a SD-1: most NAS
models put out 80 amps!

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 12:22:07 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Non-charging solved 

>Feeling better now Dave?  Amazing what a good rant will do for the blood 
>pressure isn't it.  : )

Thanks John, yes its almost *up* to a comfortable level.

cheers
da"Somebody get me a  cigarette, now!"ve

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 07:33:56
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts

	If you are talking about castle nut under the hubcap that threads onto 
the
end of the axle, torque is only 10-15 lbs.  All it does is keep the felt
and rubber oil seal in position and keep the axle from moving back and
forth.  If you got 100 lbs on that, good luck.

Aloha Peter

>Hi - I had to do the front hub seals over the weekend.  I could not find a
>reference for the  torque for the castleated nut under the hub cap.
>Thanks in advance - Peter

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 12:33:59 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: PCV 

>To add to all this,  I have a IIa which was a US import that has a flame trap 
>but no PCV.  Looks to be stock (2 nipples on the air intake elbow to which 
>both the valve cover cap and the oil filler tube connect.  Only the oil 
>filler tube is connected to the flame trap.

phew! nipples on the elbows? must be sensitive...

seriously, the set up you describe sounds somewhat familiar to the set up mine 
came with, which was determined to be an attmept by the PO to do god knows 
what, but the set up should be as follows:

pcv valve to carb base and oil filler neck.
valve cover breather to  intake elbow 90 degree "nipple"
fuel tank carbon canister to flame trap to intake elbow 45 degree nip.

there were other bits that I cannot explain the function or appearnce of but 
they are in the parts catalog. Some sort of valve thing, part of which went 
into the intake manifold between the booster hose fitting and the manifold. 
don't know where the other bits went. I have never seen a truck that still has 
these parts installed. The other part of this system was the vaccum retard 
distributor, which I still have, albeit with the vaccum disconnected. 

this pertains to NAS late IIa and SIII models up to 1974. I'm not 100% sure 
that the late IIa came with all this crap or if it was just the sIII, but I 
know it at least had the PCV system, and by the sound of it it should have had 
the carbon canister too. Mine had a cocoon in it and was no longer connected to 
the gas tank, so I yanked it. (figured it wasn't doing much, besides taking up 
space.) 

later
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:37:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts

dbobeck@ushmm.org wrote:
> >Hi - I had to do the front hub seals over the weekend.  I could not find a
> >reference for the  torque for the castleated nut under the hub cap.
> I am beginning to wonder if the II/IIa manual is much different from the
> SIII manual (besides the obvious differences). In the SIII manual there is
> a section called "torque specifications" (imagine that) and that is where
> you can find al of the required torques settings, listed categorically by
> system ,i.e., front axle, rear, axle, steering, engine, etc...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> driving of, or something silly like that.
>From page 8-F of the series ll& lla manual
It is refered to as one of 3 "fixings" for driving member to axle stub
shaft.  the other fixings being a washer and the split pin. ON pg 9-F
item 15 it says tighten the stub shaft securing nut to 10-15 ft lbs and
secure with a new split pin
Rgds
Steve Bradke 68 Series lla

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:40:04 EST
Subject: Re: Re[2]: PCV

In a message dated 11/30/98 12:33:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dbobeck@ushmm.org writes:

> this pertains to NAS late IIa and SIII models up to 1974. I'm not 100% sure 
>  that the late IIa came with all this crap or if it was just the sIII, but I
>  know it at least had the PCV system, and by the sound of it it should have 
> had 
>  the carbon canister too. Mine had a cocoon in it and was no longer
connected 
> to 
>  the gas tank, so I yanked it. (figured it wasn't doing much, besides taking
> up 
>  space.) 
>  the carbon canister too. Mine had a cocoon in it and was no longer

With all that said, is there any reason not to simply switch to 2 breather
valve setups and be done with the whole affair?  I mean the PCV thing is great
if it really works, save the environment and all that rot, but it's not like
it affects performance one way or the other.

Nate

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Stude, Herman L." <HermanS@krts.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:47:09 -0600
Subject: Charcoal Cannister

> this pertains to NAS late IIa and SIII models up to 1974. I'm not 100% sure
> that the late IIa came with all this crap or if it was just the sIII, but I
> know it at least had the PCV system, and by the sound of it it should have had
> the carbon canister too. Mine had a cocoon in it and was no longer connected 
to
> the gas tank, so I yanked it. (figured it wasn't doing much, besides taking up
> space.)
> later
> dave

I'm new to all this emmissions plumbing stuff, on my SIII 88 petrol I've
got this little canister that looks like it has some sort of vent hose
attached.  In theory what does it do and what is the correct plumbing,
and what happens if I yank it?  It does not appear in my official LR
manuals.

Herman

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:43:29 -0400
Subject: Re: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

"Bishop, Alan" wrote:

> I have been advised that if I am going to convert to halogen lights
> then the wiring for the lights needs a rethink 'cos it's a real
> mess.
> I was told the easiest way was to run a new supply from the battery,
> the question is what is needed in the way or relays? A simple
> explanation such as wire from battery to switch via relay then to
> light etc would be a great help. Also what else is needed to add a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> TIA
> Alan.

Ok Alan Here's what you will need.
    2.     30 amp relays  ( small black ones made by bosch / hella and many
others available at Radio Shack etc.)
  12 gauge wire
 14 gauge wire in two different colours.
 selection of spade terminals (female)
selection of ring terminals
one more relay for the driving lamps and a switch of your choice ( toggle,
rocker etc.)

Procedure:   Mount the two relays conveniently on the rad support. Decide
which one will be high beam and which will be low.
                  Connect terminal  86 to ground on each one.
                  Connect the existing high beam wire to terminal 85 on the
relay you selected
                   Connect the existing low beam wire to terminal 85 on that
relay.
                  From each terminal 30 take a 12 gauge wire to the live
post of the solenoid. This wire can be T, ed  so that only one actually is
run.
                 From terminal 87 of the high beam relay connect the
appropreate wire from each light.
                 From terninal 87 of the low beam relay connect the low beam
wires.
It would be a good idea to put an inline fuse in the feed to each terminal
30 after the T is made. Install a 25 amp fuse there. Some of these relays
come with a built in fuse
get them if possible.
The wiring for your driving lights will be similar execpt you will need to
run a lightgauge wire to 85 from a dash mounted switch to the high beam
circuit.

This should get your own private sun shining.
John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 07:50:10
Subject: Re: Re[2]: PCV 

	Both my '70 and '65 have PCV valves.  

	Unlike the below, the pcv valves are mounted via rubber hoses to the
intake manifold and draw from the oil filler neck.  The valve cover
breather goes to the intake side of the carburator.

pcv valve to carb base and oil filler neck.
valve cover breather to  intake elbow 90 degree "nipple"
fuel tank carbon canister to flame trap to intake elbow 45 degree nip.

Aloha Peter

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:56:34 -0400
Subject: Re: PCV

Joseph Broach wrote:

> Just to muddy the waters a little, we have two Suffix D's, one '67 (without
> PCV) and one '68 (with PCV).
> -joseph and sidney (the '67)
> missoula, mt

You cannot Muddy any waters without my express permission as you will be in
violation of the copyright regulations in Uzbeckistan. Permission will be
granted upon written proof of a donation to the victims of your favourite
disaster. : )
   John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:02:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Hub Seals & Castleated nuts

Did I say manual - I ment haynes blue book.  I don't own the two book set.

>I am beginning to wonder if the II/IIa manual is much different from the
>SIII manual (besides the obvious differences). In the SIII manual there is
>a section called "torque specifications" (imagine that) and that is where
>you can find all of the required torques settings, listed categorically by
>system ,i.e., front axle, rear, axle, steering, engine, etc...

Now that you mention it, I think there is a section like that - but last
time I did this job (on the rear hubs) I could not find any mention of the
torque for the castle nut.

>I don't recall but I am fairly certain there is one lsited for the castel
>nut on the axle, but it is referred to a castle nut, hub flange, for the
>driving of, or something silly like that.
Only values that I can remember in this chapter were for the hub flange
nuts, those 6 around the hub, and the big 2 & 1/16th hub nut.

What does the III manual say for the castle/axel nuts?

Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:10:59 EST
Subject: footwells:  stupid question time...

The Dormobile is in dire need of footwells.  Since it's a LHD, are there any
differences in RHD footwells from suppliers in the UK versus those sold by
BP/RN/etc.  (Other than the supplier?)  Are the footwells (complete)
interchangeable from side-to-side?  It is as simple as that?  

TIA.......
Gerry
PHX AZ

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: kevin.murphy@ps.ge.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:40:24 -0500
Subject: RE: footwells:  stupid question time...

I purchased replacement footwells from AB (and I believe the same holds true
for RN footwells - although those are galvanized).  They came with pre-cut
holes for the pedals on the driver's side while the passenger side was
completely covered (i.e. I had to cut out the heater holes myself).  So, if
you purchased from the UK, you would have to find out what holes are already
pre-cut into the footwell.

> The Dormobile is in dire need of footwells.  Since it's a LHD, are there
> any
> differences in RHD footwells from suppliers in the UK versus those sold by
> BP/RN/etc.  (Other than the supplier?)  Are the footwells (complete)
> interchangeable from side-to-side?  It is as simple as that?  
> TIA.......
> Gerry
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Gerry
> PHX AZ

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 10:49:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Rockers

From: "2nd email bx/Rochna, Steve" <rover@mail.oasisol.com>
Date: Sat, 28 Nov 98 20:45:00 PDT
Subject: Rockers

>I've recently installed a factory rebuilt 2.25 in an 88 and from the first 
startup it has had a ticking at the top of the engine.  I adjusted the
tappets 
both 
hot and cold being careful not to get them too tight. The ticking was still 
there.   After about 3500 miles I've discovered that it appears that it is 
caused 
by the rockers having excess play on the pivot rod.

>From the recent spate of posts about valve noise in the 2.25 engine, I'm
inclined to think that a lot of people are getting real worried about
something they don't need to be worried about at all.  The fact of the
matter is that the 2.25 engine has valve clatter, always did, always will.
It's a sound you virtually never hear these days with hydraulic tappets or
overhead cams, which I suspect is why some people are suddenly getting
freaked out by the valve tap in their Land Rovers.  But it was a very common
sound back in the dark ages when the engine was designed, and it's why idle
speed in the UK is still referred to today as "tickover speed."

There is a gap in the valve train, the .010 clearance, to ensure the valves
will fully close at all engine temperatures regardless of metal expansion.
Whenever you have a gap in a mechanical linkage like this, it's going to
make some noise.  As the metal bits will react differently to heat, not all
the valve trains will make the same amount of noise.  One may be noisier
than the rest and so stand out to you more obviously.  If the noise is
excessive, then by all means  you should check it out.  But if you've gapped
the valves properly with the follower resting on the lowest part of the cam
lobe, you've done it right and any mechanical noise you hear is just going
to be there.  Get used to it.

As to the bushings in the rocker arms, they do wear out over time.  But
remember that the rocker is always being pushed up, both by the pushrod and
by the valve stem/spring.  The only wear you will find will be on the
undersides of the rocker arm bearing surfaces and the lower halves of the
rocker bushings.  That's where all the pressure is.  But the upward pressure
of the pushrod against one end of the rocker and of the valve stem/spring
against the other end of the rocker in effect takes out all the play between
the worn surfaces.  So even with a worn arm and bushings, you can still gap
the valves properly.  There is enough "throw" to the valve adjustment screw
to compensate for whatever wear there might be to the rocker arm and rocker
bushings.  So even though you may have wear on the rocker arm bearing
surfaces and the rocker arm bushings, if the valves are adjusted properly,
the wear should not contribute to valve train noise unless the wear is
really severe.  It didn't on my Series III, even though when we finally
overhauled the engine as a result of a couple of burned exhaust valves, the
rocker arm/rocker bushing wear was pretty significant.

As with anything, you can let things go too far.  Too much gap between the
valve stem and rocker arm, excessive wear to the rocker arm bearing surfaces
and rocker bushings, or worn followers and cam lobes can certainly result in
more noise.  But you stated your engine is a factory rebuild.  Assuming it
is not just a rebuilt short block, it should have a new rocker arm and new
bushings in the rockers themselves, so replacing these will not change
anything except your bank account.  If the valve clearances are adjusted
correctly, and if a compression test indicates all is well inside the
cylinder, your valves are fine even if some of them make a bit of noise.  If
the noise is excessive, then you either have a misadjusted valve clearance,
a broken valve (which would be very obvious in other ways) a broken pushrod
(also very obvious in other ways) or there is a possible problem with the
roller follower on the cam.

But if the engine just goes "tick, tick, tick," don't worry about it.  I can
pretty much guarantee it did it the day it left the factory back in
19-whatever.  My Series III had valve tap from the day I took delivery in
1973.  It's always had it, but other than the two burned exhaust valves at
125K miles or so, it's never had any valve problems at all other than
wearing out the valve stem guides in the first 15 minutes which allows oil
to seep down into the cylinders after you switch off the engine.  Then when
you next start it up, you get that big satisfying cloud of blue smoke as the
accumulated oil burns off.

If by chance you have a 2.25 engine that doesn't make any valve noise at
all, then I would be VERY worried.  The chances are that a "silent" 2.25
engine isn't closing all its valves properly, and I would check the
clearances right away.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:17:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Hub Castleated Nut - Oops!?

Mine are at 85 ftlbs - and about 1000 miles.
I guess I better loosten those up - and set them at 10 to 15!
Thanks - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:18:45 -0500
Subject: PCP^hV

Nate Dunsmore writes:

>With all that said, is there any reason not to simply switch to 2 breather
>valve setups and be done with the whole affair?  I mean the PCV thing is
great
>if it really works, save the environment and all that rot, but it's not
like
>it affects performance one way or the other.
>Nate

Open crankcase venting systems represent an amazingly high percentage of the
unburned hydrocarbon emissions of a well-tuned engine.  It is very little
effort to get the system to work correctly, and it doesn't reduce
performance by an amount you would notice.

David

-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:08:34 EST
Subject: Re: PCP^hV

In a message dated 11/30/98 2:49:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, dscheidt@att.com
writes:

> Open crankcase venting systems represent an amazingly high percentage of the
>  unburned hydrocarbon emissions of a well-tuned engine.  It is very little
>  effort to get the system to work correctly, and it doesn't reduce
>  performance by an amount you would notice.

True, but can it be done for less than the $120-150 it would cost me to get a
PCV assembly and associated rigging?

Nate

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:48:26 -0500
Subject: heater output from head

Anybody know what the threads on the heater output tap on the back left of
the 2.25 petrol cylinder head are?  

Thanks,

David
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 13:01:52 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: PCV 

>With all that said, is there any reason not to simply switch to 2 breather 
>valve setups and be done with the whole affair?  

you mean the breather caps like on the older trucks?

>I mean the PCV thing is great if it really works, save the environment and 
>all that rot, but it's not like it affects performance one way or the other.

yes, actually I meant to mentino that in my previous post. it will affect 
performance though if there is a hole in the PCV vlave diaphragm. but that is a 
tired old thread that I will not get into.

later
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 13:28:06 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: PCV  

        >Both my '70 and '65 have PCV valves.  

        >Unlike the below, the pcv valves are mounted via rubber hoses to the
>intake manifold and draw from the oil filler neck.  The valve cover 
>breather goes to the intake side of the carburator.

where does the PCV vlave go into the manifold? on my manifold there is only one 
place for this and that is in front of the carb, where the brake booster hose 
attaches. 
PCV valve is a place where crankcase fumes are sucked into the mixture under 
high vacuum, such as at idle. this means the crankcase becomes a negative 
pressure area. hence the valve cover breather which is actually an INTAKE (of 
sorts)...whoever hooked up this breather to the carb base has done wrong. Oil 
is likely being sucked directly into your mixture. Great if its a chainsaw 
you're running...if you don't believe me, pull the elbow off the carb. find the 
90 degree hose nipple and see which direction it points inside the elbow. it 
points toward the air filter. 
to top it off, connecting  the PCV valve to the mainfold side of the equation 
means that only one or two cylinders are gettting the blow-by fumes, and may 
potentially be running slighlty differently, or getting a build up of crud (?) 
in them. 
I think.

comments? please...leave the boorish and opinionated stuff to me...

later
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:32:35 EST
Subject: Re: Re[4]: PCV

In a message dated 11/30/98 3:27:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dbobeck@ushmm.org writes:

> you mean the breather caps like on the older trucks?

Yes. Like on the SII engine I used to have in the truck.

Nate

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:52:56 -0500
Subject: Self promotion !!!

If anybody is interested, I just loaded a whole bunch of pictures on my web
site, on my D90 pictures page at
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Station/8098/d90.htm All of these
where taken in the NJ Pine Barrens, while off-roading with what we could
start to call the Sunday "regulars": 3 D90's and a Disco. Actually, once, it
was 2 D90's and a Lightweight !

I'm particularly prowd of the one with a wheel 1 foot off the ground. I was
at full stop when the picture was taken by Frank Jacobsen, negotiating a 90
degree turn on top of a sand hill... now that was fun... 

These pictures do show my homebuilt snorkel.

   }\/\/\/\{ Marc-Andre Leger
   |       | Network Eng.
  ()()---, | WEFA inc.
 (_        | 800 Baldwin Tower
   |_______| Eddystone Pennsylvania
   -/\-----| USA 19022
  |/\/ , , | (610) 490-2763
  /\/  |_| | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com
  -~    || | http://www.wefa.com
  |_____||_| http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Station/8098/ (Land
Rover stuff)

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 15:58:59 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: PCP^hV 

>True, but can it be done for less than the $120-150 it would cost me to get a 
>PCV assembly and associated rigging?

I thought you had a couple around, no? oughtta be plenty of used/unwanted ones 
floating about. besides, if you just bought the metal pipe that goes around the 
valve cover, you could even use a standard in line pCV valve out of the "help!" 
section of your local auto parts shop...I tend to go with the stock 
arrangements on these things, they make things neater.

later
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: chsteven@aerotek.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:04:28 -0500
Subject: Re: PCV

All this PCV stuff has me wondering: My son's SIII is missing the PCV valve
assembly ($119) so I asked the kind chap at RN this morning if there was a way 
to
make it work without. The answer was, "Nope, it'll affect engine performance"  
and
oil will blow all over the place. The two-nipple-flame-trap set-up will also
adversely affect engine performance, according to RN. So the only way to go is
with the PCV valve?

Chris Stevens

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:35:22 -0000
Subject: Re: Non-charging solved 

Dave,
you call that a rant?
Just sounded like good common sense to me.... oh, yes, I see what you mean
:-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 16:17:41 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: PCV 

> So the only way to go is with the PCV valve?

>Chris Stevens

bollocks. run a hose down from the oil filler neck to somewhere inside the 
frame or such.
plug the hole at the base of the carb. flame trap nipple on my carb elbow is 
plugged. no ill effects.
leave valve cover breather connected to intake elbow. 
I thikn you guys should try to find the PCV vlave used somewhere. Try Mike 
Buonanduci
802 439 5815
there's lots of folks advertsing used rover parts on the web these days. call 
em up. get it for 10 bucks instead...

or just go with the early set up. It may be easier to find an old style filler 
neck.

later
dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:52:04 EST
Subject: Re: Rockers

In a message dated 11/30/98 10:48:42 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com writes:

<< But if the engine just goes "tick, tick, tick," don't worry about it.  I
can
 pretty much guarantee it did it the day it left the factory >>
Excellent diagnosis as usual Marin.  It may behoove some of the Tick worried
rover owners to listen with either a Mecahnics stethoscope, long screwdriver
or tubing in the ear and determine whether the noise is valve related or
perhaps mechanical fuel pump noise as well.  

Zack, Lyme disease free, Arbios
no ticks, no Lyme disease

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 14:17:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

>I have been advised that if I am going to convert to halogen lights 
>then the wiring for the lights needs a rethink 'cos it's a real 
>mess. 
;
Converting to halogen bulbs with the same wattage does NOT require ANY 
wiring changes.    For instance, if your old lamps have a 40 watt low 
beam and a 55 watt high beam and the halogen lamps have the same rating 
then the same amount of current is running through the lamps old or new 
system.

Most standard Halogen bulbs have approximately the same wattage rating as 
the earlier tungsten filament type because they know people would be 
burning out circuits and possibly causing fires and at best case just 
becoming unhappy ex-customers.

The ones you need to rewire for are the special high output halogen 
lamps.  These are normally labeled as high power (if in doubt ask your 
sales person).  The high output lamps usually have a low beam similar in 
power as the regular output halogen and tungsten filament lamps.  The 
high power is usually reserved for the high beams.  This is when you need 
to put a relay in the high beam circuit to handle the additional power 
draw.  You would leave the low beam circuit alone in this application.

There are some special high power lamps that are available that have high 
output on both high and low beams.  This would require a relay on both 
the high beam circuit and the low beam circuit.  I recommend against 
getting these lamps.  You do not want to blind oncoming traffic when they 
are hurling their cars in your direction.

Now assuming that you have a regular halogen lamp sold as regular 
replacements in auto parts stores.  Just swap the old for the new and 
drive off.

High power halogen head lamps usually come with directions and often with 
a relay.  Assuming you have a pair of high power halogen lamps, no relay 
and no directions you will need to go out and purchase a relay.  Lucas 
makes a relay that is a rectangular metal can that works very well for 
this application.  There is often a diagram of the relay etched on the 
side to tell you how to wire the relay.

Mount the relay on the wing or radiator bulkhead somewhere near the horn 
in the front right corner.

This is a good time to check the existing wiring for the headlamps.  Each 
headlamp has a sub harness consisting of a socket, black wire, blue with 
white stripe wire and blue with red stripe wire.  If these are not on 
excellent condition replace them with new sub harness sets.  

Check the wires going to your foot dimmer switch where they go through 
the kick panel.  There should be a rubber grommet there protecting the 
wires from the sharp edge of the hole.  If it is not there or is in bad 
condition replace this grommet.  If the wire is damaged, repair or 
replace the wires.  Most headlamps short circuits occur where the wires 
go through the bulkhead.

Find a place to get electricity.  You may get it off the hot battery 
connector if your battery is mounted in the engine compartment or you can 
pull it from a main line.  If you want to pull it off a main wire look 
for a solid brown wire.  Solid brown designates always hot unfused main 
lead (disconnect the battery first).  You will find a connection on the 
fuse block.  You will want to connect a line fuse between the brown wire 
on the wiring harness and the relay.  Any wire between the main line and 
the fuse should be solid brown.  Depending upon what kind of wire 
measuring system you are using the wire should be #12 AWG, or 44 strand.

The stock wire harness has a blue with white stripe wire going from the 
foot switch to a 4 way connector in the upper right corner of the Land 
Rover just above the horn.  There are three blue with a white stripe 
wires attached to the four way connector.  This is your stock high beam 
system.  You will use the wire coming from the foot switch to activate 
the relay and provide power to the other two wires (which are already 44 
strand wires).

Looking at your relay there should be four connectors.  They may have 
labels like S1, S2, R1, R2 or there may be a picture etched with 
corresponding connector designations.  The connectors labeled S1 & S2 or 
shown on the diagram as a coil are the low power connections to the 
internal solenoid that activates the high power relay contacts.  One of 
these connectors will take a black wire going to frame ground.  The other 
gets connected to the blue white wire coming from the dimmer foot switch. 
 It doesn't matter which of the S or solenoid terminals is which.

Now, the brown wire to line fuse to blue wire goes to one of the R or 
relay contact terminals.  Once again it doesn't matter which.  Finally 
run a 44 strand (#12 AWG) blue with white stripe wire from the other R or 
relay terminal to the four way connector that has the two blue with white 
stripe wires going to the headlamps.

To get the most out of new high power headlamps you should check the 
ground connections.  The headlamp wiring sub harnesses each have a black 
wire that goes to a ground connector on the underside of the radiator 
bulkhead near the bonnet latch.  The connections should be clean and 
secure.  It wouldn't hurt to purchase and install a new Lucas ground 
connector and use a star washer on the screw that secures it to the 
bulkhead.  I moved my ground connection directly down to the frame to get 
a lower resistance connection.

And that is all there is to it.  If I ever go to high power high beam 
headlamps that is how I would wire the connections.

The fuse size depends upon the power your high beam draws so there is no 
firm number that I can provide.  Since you have two high beam lamps, 
divide two times the wattage of the high beam by 12 then add 25% as a 
fudge factor. Choose a fuse that is the closest higher current rating.  

I think I covered just about everything involved.  If I missed something 
please ask.

Good Luck!!!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:36:32 -0400
Subject: Re: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> >I have been advised that if I am going to convert to halogen lights
> >then the wiring for the lights needs a rethink 'cos it's a real
> >mess.
> ;
> Converting to halogen bulbs with the same wattage does NOT require ANY
> wiring changes.    For instance, if your old lamps have a 40 watt low
> beam and a 55 watt high beam and the halogen lamps have the same rating
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 118 lines)]
> Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create
> beauty wherever you go.

TeriAnn,   Every thing you say is true however all types of head light will
work just a
             better if wired through a relay and fed to the relay with a nice
fat wire that is a direct as possible. The relays should be as close to the
lights as possible.
    John and Muddy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:44:19
Subject: Re: Re[4]: PCV  

My 1965 has the pcv spigot tapped to the rear of the carburetor on the in
intake manifold.  The '70 is also tapped in the rear of the intake manifold
for the pcv but is also tapped in  front of carburetor for the brake
booster.  By front and rear I'm talking longitudinally with the engine and
the car.  Can measure exactly where they are tapped if you need it.  All
the holes are in bosses but noticed there is not a second boss on the '65
manifold if I wanted to add a brake booster.  By the way these are Pearce
after market manifolds but the holes are pretty much the same place as the
stock manifolds they replaced.

Aloha Peter

>where does the PCV valve go into the manifold? on my manifold there is
only one 
>place for this and that is in front of the carb, where the brake booster
hose 
>attaches. 

I've put many thousands of miles on mine with this hook up and had
absolutely no valve or head problems let alone specific valves.  

>to top it off, connecting  the PCV valve to the mainfold side of the
equation 
>means that only one or two cylinders are gettting the blow-by fumes, and may 
>potentially be running slighlty differently, or getting a build up of crud
(?) 
>in them. 
>I think.

>dave

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:52:47 -1000
Subject: Re: footwells:  stupid question time...

>> The Dormobile is in dire need of footwells.  Since it's a LHD, are there
>> any

>They came with pre-cut
>holes for the pedals on the driver's side while the passenger side was
>completely covered (i.e. I had to cut out the heater holes myself).  >

With the original footwells on my 70 IIa, both side have a large square cut
out in the top panel.  It is the same size on both sides.  To this is
rivetted and screwed the apropriate panel whether for pedals or heater.  I
remember a similar set up on my 73 III also.
Both sides have holes for the various mountings, etc.  If the Dorm is
similar, you might be able to salvage these two upper panels (drill out the
rivets) and reuse them when you get the new footwells.
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 98 15:28:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Rewiring for Halogen conversion.

>TeriAnn,   Every thing you say is true however all types of head light will
>work just a better if wired through a relay and fed to the relay with a nice
;>fat wire that is a direct as possible. The relays should be as close to 
the
;>lights as possible.
;>    John and Muddy

I agree completely with both statements.  That is why I recommended 
mounting the relay in the front right corner near the horn.  It is close 
to the headlamps, battery and right in the path of the stock wiring.  It 
also happens to be at the junction of all three existing wires.

While the stock headlamps or a same power halogen headlamp conversion can 
benefit from adding a relay and a short power pathway they are not 
necessary.  The original requester seemed to think that he HAD to add a 
relay for a halogen conversion.  I do not think anyone could tell the 
difference between a stock good condition LR wiring circuit and one 
modified with a relay by looking at the brightness of a stock wattage 
high beam headlamp.

I would not recommend people to modify their electrical systems just 
because a different way is more elegant.  To me it would only make sense 
if you are replacing the existing harness with a custom one anyway OR you 
are going to a higher power headlamp system.  Even though it is not as 
elegant of a solution, the Land Rover wiring harness  was designed to 
handle the power of the stock headlamps.

Since I used the horn word earlier in this reply...

Everything said about adding a relay to the high beam circuit applies to 
the horn circuit as well except the wire to the horn is brown with a 
black stripe which would go to the solenoid contact of the relay and the 
wire between the high current relay contact and the horn should be purple 
with a brown stripe.

The end result should be a louder horn on a more elegant circuit.

Take care  8^)

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:37:58 -0500
Subject: Re: Re[2]: PCP^hV

Re: Pipe and fittings for PCV:

WHen I got my S.III engine that pipe and its mountings were missing (so was the
PCV valve, but that's another story...). To replace it, I merely bought a piece
of 3/8" brake line at the local auto emporium, cut off the flartes and bent it
to fit, using the illustration in a manual to match it up to where it went.

Cheap, simple and quick - snd it worked fine. The connections to the PCV and
oil-filler tube were made with standard fuel hose and Jubilee clips.

The right-angle from the base of the PCV to the base of the carburettor mounting
adapter also came from the auto-parts store - I believe its original use was for
a postal Jeep or something like that.

If you have the valve or are willing to use a generic one, the setup should cost
peanuts to plumb.

                    ajr

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:37:28 -1000
Subject: Re: Re[2]: PCP^hV

I understand how the PCV system works as far as emmisions are concerned but
I am wondering, isn't a properly installed system also going to be required
if fording (hey, I got to get to the other islands somehow aint I?)
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:56:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: heater output from head

David - 5/8ths 20  (from my '65 IIA)
Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:48:38 EST
Subject: PC*&@#$!!V

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com gets directly to my point:

<< If you have the valve or are willing to use a generic one, the setup should
cost
 peanuts to plumb.
  >>

So, if I want proper performance from the engine (SIII 8:1 head):
I need to refit a (not necessarily LR) PCV that I run from the oil filler tube
to the PCV itself then to the base of the carb. Also, I need to run a line
from the elbow on the air cleaner to the valve cover cap.

Question:  Will performance suffer if I merely refit the breather type caps to
the oil filler tube (plugging the filler side pipe) and the valve cover?  ie
are the crankcase fumes needed in the intake for proper performance?

Nate

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:09:09 -0800
Subject: Axles

Well the Elephant Chaser has finally joined the broken axle club. It was
the long one for those interested, although the short one is severely
twisted also. It happened due to bounce trying to go up a steep
mogul-covered hill. I had to winch the rest of the way up, so I can now
say that the Beaver winch works well. I made it up all but the steepest
of the remaining hills by going up backwards. No none of us had any
spare axles with us. Anyway, in trying to figure out how I want to
proceed from here, I was wondering if anybody has any experience with
the Ashcroft axles. Mainly are they really stronger, and since they are
24 spline, what happens at the diff end. Do salsbury spiders fit in a
regular diff? I may just put regular axles back in, or I may get a
Quaife. Thanks for any help

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" dragging her rear

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:14:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Fw: Series 1 - 109 / 1958 Pick-up for sale

I'm very sorry to hear that you need to sell Flossie. Your message on
the LRO list was truncated. I'm sending this to both the address on the
LRO list and to the e-mail address on the TARC site.

I don't know if we're seriously interested but have a few questions.
What major areas need work to get her back on the road other than to get
the engine running? Any idea of the condition of the brakes or wiring?
Any parts missing?

Best wishes,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:32:34 EST
Subject: Re: Dreaded spring bushings with confusion

In a message dated 98-11-25 09:53:51 EST, you write:

 I don't want to get involved in any fights, but what is the green book?  
 I have a Hayes TR3-4 Manual that has a green cover.  Are you guys 
 refering to a Hayes LR manual?
 
 Just curious
  >>
Land Rover Series III Repair operation manual. Copyright 1981

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:48:50 -0500
Subject: Re: PCV

Several years ago a list member had problems with carb icing. The final
diagnosis of the cause was eliminating the PCV valve and connecting the
crankcase ventilation directly to the air snorkel.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:02:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Dreaded spring bushings with confusion

> I don't want to get involved in any fights, but what is the green book?  
> I have a Hayes TR3-4 Manual that has a green cover.  Are you guys 
> refering to a Hayes LR manual?

I'm sorry for starting this.  When I said the "Green Book" I was referring
to the SII/SIIa worshop manual published by Land Rover Ltd, and Brooklands
Books Ltd.  The two volumes have green covers but they may be reprints and
the colour may not be the same as originally produced.  Regardless, there
are no torque recommendations for the spring bushings.  But please don't
recommend any, I have joined the "tight" crowd and set them to 75lbs.

			Rick Grant

			1959, SII   "VORIZO"  

rgrant@cadvision.com	
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
Rick Grant Associates.  Calgary, Canada
Media and Public Affairs

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 10:22:06 -0700
Subject: Burbank Ca.

I may be moving from Denver to Burbank California and was wondering if
there were any list members from that part of the world who could shed some
light on the area.  Thanks for any info.

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:24:31 -0600
Subject: CB Master Cylinder 88 vs 109.

	I am going to rebuild my 109 CB master Cylinder this week.  I have
several spare CB brake pedal/master cylinder assemblies in my barn.  It
would be neato to be able to rebuild one of those and then still drive my
rover and just do the old switcheroo.  Is there any easy way to tell is the
CB Master Cylinder is for a 109 or an 88?

	Cwolfe

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:43:10 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: CB Master Cylinder 88 vs 109.

On Mon, 30 Nov 1998, Wolfe, Charles wrote:

:	I am going to rebuild my 109 CB master Cylinder this week.  I have
:several spare CB brake pedal/master cylinder assemblies in my barn.  It
:would be neato to be able to rebuild one of those and then still drive my
:rover and just do the old switcheroo.  Is there any easy way to tell is the
:CB Master Cylinder is for a 109 or an 88?
:
The 109 has a larger bore.  I looked to see if the parts catalogue has any
useful information;  it doesn't, and to make things worse, there does seem
to be two 109 CB master cylinders GI 64067722 taking kit 503754 and GI
64068750 taking kit 605127.  I presume GI means the
[lucas[-varity]-]Girling part number, since they have more digits than
Rover numbers.  There is only one Rover number listed for the part 564706.  

What I would do is look at your spares.  If you have two sizes, take the
bigger.  If you have only one, look and see if the casting numbers match
the numbers from the parts book.  

David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:46:14 EST
Subject: Re: SOV's

In a message dated 98-11-25 22:47:08 EST, you write:

<< All reports I have heard from actual users is that they
 are very nice.  Well suited for the roll the Ranger Bats use them for.
 
 Later, Roy >>

That comes from starting with a good initial design and letting it evolve. We
try to reinvent the wheel every decade.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:14:35 EST
Subject: Re: Green Bible

In a message dated 98-11-26 14:07:35 EST, you write:

<< The green covered manuals are Brooklands Books reprints.
 Cheers,
 Brian
  >>
Not necessarily. Mine was published by Land rover Limited and is publication
number AKM3648 (Edition 4)

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 10:52:39 -0500
Subject: wiring woes

<<Alan Bishop asked a couple of wiring questions.  >>
I am not sure which model you have, but the factory workshop manuals have
good wiring diagrams.  The IIA set is a bit less than 50 pounds from LROI
bookshop, and well worth it.  Of course if your PO made a hack of the
wiring, a diagram will tell you what you should see, but it doesn't help you
figure out which of those green wires behind the dash is which.  However, LR
electrics are really simple, and an hour or two with a meter and some
thought will let you figure most things out.  

The point of relays controlling the headlights is that it reduces the
current that flows through the switch, which means the switch lasts longer.
There is also less voltage drop in the circuit, so the lights burn brighter
as well.  A relay is essentially a remotely operated switch.  The sort you
want for this have three contacts, two inputs and an output.  The output
goes to the lights.  One of inputs is from the switch (you can probably use
the existing wiring for this).  The other comes from the battery, through a
fuse we hope.  If both inputs are on, then the output is on.  (The output is
a logical AND of the inputs, if that helps at all.)  

If want to add additional lights, it is pretty easy to wire them so that
they don't work when the high beams are on, which is what you want fog
lights to do; or to wire them so they only work when the high beams are on,
which is appropriate for driving lights.  Of course, you might want them to
work at all times, in which case you wire them like the headlights.

David
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:11:19 -0700
Subject: Re: Burbank Ca.

<<I may be moving from Denver to Burbank California and was wondering if
there were any list members from that part of the world who could shed some
light on the area.  Thanks for any info.>>

I suppose you could always tag along with the British Pacific crew. They
are located in Burbank last I heard, and I'd wager that their trucks are
well-equipped!

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:36:00 -0800
Subject: mansfield heaters

     So, I have read everything there is to read on Mansfield heaters on 
     the digest.  They sound pretty toasty.  What I want to know is:
     -does anyone in Canada have one in their rig?
     -if so, does it keep up in seriously cold weather?
     -does it put out more volume to the defrost than my kodiak?
        (the kodiak puts out a reasonable amount of heat, but
         the defrost is pretty much non-existant once it gets
         through the tortuous rats-maze tunnel)
     -how many settings does it have?
     -how hard is it to put into the truck?
     
     Thanks.
     
     Or, any suggestions on how to route more air to the defrost?
     
     Brrrrrrr
     
     Clinton Coates
     

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:58:00 -0800
Subject: Seetbeltz and seetz

     Hi all,
     
     Re: Seetbeltz
     
     Ok, I have a set of genyoowine partz shoulder belts and want to put 
     them in. The top mount and bottom mount for the lap and shoulder part 
     are straightforward drill-and-bolt jobbies. However, the buckle 
     thingies on the stalks are a bit more problematic for my '61.
     
     Does one drill the mounting holes for these in the bulkhead (and are 
     there reinforcing bits to fit on here if this is the case?) or in the 
     flat bit behind the seats between the bulkhead and the seats?  I want 
     to make sure that I don't drill too many holes in the wrong places....
     
     If it is to go on the bulkhead, I had thought of getting a piece of 
     3ft long by 1/8" thick by 1 1/2" wide iron strapping to bolt onto the 
     outside bottom of the rear bulkhead to take up the strain in case of a 
     rapid stop.
     
     Re: Seetz
     
     I know there are lots of cool seats one can install in their series 
     rover.  Ones from Volvos, Saabs and Corvettes come to mind.  My 
     problem is, I have this fetish that requries that I have easy access 
     to my underseat cubby.  Has anyone instlled/grafted/adapted/bodged in 
     a seat that:
     a) allows the use of the centre cushion and back
     b) can be removeable to access the cubby
     c) can be modified so that it folds forward to access behind the
        rear bulkhead?
     
     I have discovered that seats from Jeeps are just a titch wider than 
     the series drivers seats.  The new ones even fold forward and look 
     adaptable to my stock seat base.  The downside is that used ones are 
     about 500 bucks Canadian. The older seats don't fold, but I think I 
     can fiddle them to slide/swing forward enough to satisfy my fetish and 
     still gain access to the rear bulkhead.  Any other ideas out there?
     
     BTW, if anyone wants convenient rear foldaway seating for their rover, 
     the fold-and-tumble rear seats from a Jeep fit between the wheel wells 
     as if they were designed to be there.  I *love* conservative design!
     
     Clinton
     
     Clinton

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Clinton Coates <ccoates@GOLDER.com>
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:05:00 -0800
Subject: block heaters

     Now that the chilly season is coming, my thoughts have been turning 
     once again to that pesky problem of block heaters.  Specifically, how 
     to get the engine hot when parked away from a source of electricity.  
     I have looked at several different options that are all pretty 
     expensive, such as the various gas/diesel fueled pre heaters and a 
     propane powered heater.  All are in the 700-1500 buck range.  *way* 
     too expensive and fiddly/complicated. Then I was thinking about a 
     conversation I had with a surveyor up in Ft St John two years ago.  In 
     some parts of the oil patch, they drive a few 4x4s into the bush in 
     the fall and leave them, along with a cat and other equipment until 
     freeze up to use as transportation during the winter in inaccesible 
     areas.  The trick to getting the trucks started once they have been 
     soaking in -40 for a few weeks is that they use a small 2 stroke 
     generator hooked up to the regular block heater (and battery charger 
     in this case).
     
     Now, why couldn't one mount a locked ammo box on the front fender a la 
     SAS desert patrol vehicle, insulate it and put one of the wee small 2 
     stroke generators in there?  They are pretty quiet (and would be 
     quiter inside an insulated box) and could run the block heater and a 
     remote interior heater.  Heck, I could even route the exhaust into the 
     engine bay to toast things up a bit....  The only trick is to make 
     sure that it would be able to take the load drawn by the various 
     heaters.  I figure 1/2 hour warm up would be sufficient.
     
     Hey. Some of them even have a 12V plug.  Now I bet it wouldn't take 
     much to get one to act as a 12V genny as well if the battery flattens 
     or the alternator goes to pot in the backwoods...
     
     Clinton
     

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 03:48:47 EST
Subject: Re: block heaters

My turn:

You know what we did in the military in Artic locales?

We'd keep 1 vehicle running all night, and in the morning, we'd hook up a hose
from its tailpipe, to the tailpipe of the next vehicle we wanted to start, and
let if sit for about 15 minutes, or so.

Each vehicle would start right up!

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 03:43:39 EST
Subject: Re: Burbank Ca.

In a message dated 98-12-01 02:11:39 EST, you write:

<< I suppose you could always tag along with the British Pacific crew. They
 are located in Burbank last I heard, and I'd wager that their trucks are
 well-equipped!
 >>

Wellllllll.....

Steve (the owner of BP) just bought a Range Rover. Other than it, Keith is the
only other guy there that owns a Rover! (a SIII 88 in pieces)

Lawrence isn't there anymore - he has a SIII 88, an ex-SAA 109 pickup, and I
think he has another truck as well, but I haven't talked to him in a while,
and Jim (the former owner) is still putting together his 109 FFR truck.

Lots of us Rover people in the L.A. area (Burbank is just over the hill from
L.A., in the San Fernando Valley - but it's still part of L.A.), though we
don't see much of one another very often. There's two clubs here now, AND some
of the local dealers are setting up off-road trips.

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Tommaso Russo <trusso@tin.it>
Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 12:01:36 +0100
Subject: subscribe

subscribe

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 06:22:42 -0500
Subject: Re: PC*&@#$!!V

RE: PCV

Is it necessary? No, hardly. At least one of the Rover shops I've dealt with
advocated doing exactly what you describe.

               ajr

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 06:27:26 -0500
Subject: Re: PCV

David adds:

Several years ago a list member had problems with carb icing. The final
diagnosis of the cause was eliminating the PCV valve and connecting the
crankcase ventilation directly to the air snorkel.

Regards,
David Cockey

David, gotta argue on this one - that was me.  It was exactly the opposite -
plumbing in the PCV eliminated the carb icing problem for me with the Weber
34ICH.

What was happening was that the valve cover cap, being plumbed directly into the
air horn, was drawing moisture-laden blow-by directly into the carburettor,
causing the biggest ice ball you'd ever seen. It actually strangled the engine
completely.

Removing the connection to the valve cover and plugging it at the air horn, then
later plumbing in the PCV eliminated the problem. I just had to make sure the
air flow was in the proper direction...

                         ajr

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 75 lines 4085 [forwarded 1151 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 2294 [content 2850  forwarded 191 (cut  960) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>