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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 06:58:05 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive

First off - it does have 90-weight in it, right?

I'd try for an oil change on the whole transmission/transfer case/overdrive
assembly. Odds are, what's in there is sludge.

Secondly, it's been said that a 10% addition of slick50 helps ODs run quieter -
i haven't done this to mine as it's not obtrusive, but it might be worth a shot
on yours.

Is there anyone in your area you can get to listen to your OD? Might be you've
got bad bearings or the like, also...  If it helps, I'm in the Boston area and
could be persuaded to give it a listen.

               Al Richer

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:09:15 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
 It may be
> tough to get enough coolant to flow through the existing piping to provide an
> appreciable heating effect. 
>.
I put an extra heater behind the seat bulkhead. I ran a heater hose from
the heater in front to the new heater 'under' the floor, then used
copper 1/2" above the floor and back out of the heater down to the
floor, which then turned back into heater hose as far as the engine.
Flow has not changed, but the heat difference is amazing. Especially
when I turn on the blower. I actually run in the winter with the window
open! The only thing I gotta change though is my heat control valve. It
slowly creeps open in the summer and the pipes get hot   =:-0

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:55:26 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

"d.h.lowe" wrote:

> Hi  John.       Brett and Larry just left my place. We put their
> hardtops on for the
> winter this afternoon. It was Brett`s last fling ,that`s why he was
> running topless this
> morning..Now about those thermostats. The Series III and earlier
> thermostat housings have
> an oval opening in the side which leads to the bypass hose. The purpose
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 57 lines)]
> least resistance when the `stat is open is through the rad. not the
> by-pass.

What you say makes sense. The VW diesel use that same type for the same
purpose but it is smaller.
    John and Muddy

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 07:13:24 -0600
Subject: Strange front hub additions.

Hi All,
  Well I just purchased a 1971  109 SW which has what looks like a free
wheel hub but there is NO way to turn it on or off. basicly looks like a
spacer over the end of the axles.  also has no axles nut cup.  Can
anyone tell me what these are.  These look very odd to me.

Thanks,
  ROb Davis_Chicago .

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:15:19 EST
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

In a message dated 11/23/98 6:29:53 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> Yes, you can run a third line to run the gauge - there's sufficient
capacity,
>  and the gauges use little current.

When I took about the donor dashpanel (1970 SIIa), there's a Lucas original
looking dark green wire going from the stabilizer to the gauge--but from the
dark green, ie 12V side...

Therefore I assume this is a 12V gauge. Anyone know?

Nate

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:24:49 -0500
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

Nate,

This would surprise me - if it's a Smiths gauge it should require a regulated
current source. Either way, I would hook it through the 10-volt regulator. If it
reads abnormally low, then mov it afterwards - no harm done.

                    aj"I personally prefer mechanical...8*)"r

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:25:06 -0400
Subject: Re: Installing my ujs - tips?

jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

> DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
>  =
>  = In a message dated 98-11-20 15:39:22 EST, you write:
>  =
>  = << I have beaten them out with the sockets and a sledgehammer before
>    for very stubborn ones, but be sure not to hit the yoke.>>
>  = Actually if you use a rawhide hammer you can beat on the outside of
> the yoke
>  = and

> use the inertia of the cap to pull it out. A little more work but
> elegantt luckily Land Rover never injected plastic to
> hold the caps in place like  Ch**y did.
>  =

For future reference if confronted with Chev U joints without clips. The
plastic inserts give up the fight if given a little heat as from a propane
torch.

John and Muddy

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 05:57:01 -0800
Subject: Re: Strange front hub additions.

Without looking at them directly... Could they be Rovers automatic hubs,
kind of like a free -wheeling hub. Only worked in forward not reverse. Not
totally practical.

Tom

car4doc wrote:

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 09:01:08 -0500
Subject: Re[4]: spring bushings 

 >Nice.  Whatever happened to the idea of the virtual pub?  Um, dude, you need
>to relax.

No, I will not "relax" while you and others try to pawn off advice that is 
incorrect that can cause difficult to repair damage to someone's vehicle. I 
will step aside when I am wrong and I suggest you do the same (like now). If 
you are a member of OVLR than you will see in this months newletter a nice 
articel by Roy Parsons. He has owned four military LR's that had the shackles 
improperly torqued. Sounded like quite a mess.
 
Perhaps someone can post a copy of that article for the benefit of our more 
obstinate list contributors.
Pubs aren't always warm and fuzzy. 

later
dave/greenHELL (whose springs and bushings had quite a workout this weekend)

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 06:17:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive

>I am a NEW 1973 series III owner (i.e My 1st rover). The fairly overdrive on
>this rover screams so loud that it causes actual pain in my ears (making it
>useless). Is this normal for overdrives. I have heard they are loud, but
;>this one is unbearable. If it is so loud, dose anyone have an idea has 
to
;>why?

Screaming bearings is often a sign of gears not meshing properly.  This 
is usually caused by wear.  The more severe the louder.  Also bearings 
wearing out will cause a scream.  This can be caused by high mileage or 
running the OD short on oil.

You can put thick goo into your OD to get it to quiet down a little or 
you can remove the OD and run it without the OD.  You never can tell, the 
OD may not be what is making the noise.  If you remove it then you will 
know for sure.  I once replaced my TR3 transmission because the ring and 
pinion was very badly worn and screaming.  The noise traveled up the 
short prop shaft tunnel.  I would have sworn that it was coming from the 
transmission.  Since I replaced my first gear non syncro TR3 transmission 
with an all syncro TR4 transmission that had an overdrive I didn't mind 
the mistake.

Since ODs are no longer available but rebuild parts are still easily 
available I would strongly advise rebuilding worn overdrives before they 
break.  When chips & bits start flying all sorts of otherwise good parts 
can break.

In summary, I advise:
1. remove the overdrive and put a non-OD gear & back plate on.  Drive the 
car to verify that the noise indeed came from the OD.
2. If the OD is the noise source get it rebuilt to new specification.
3. After it is reinstalled DO NOT FORGET TO CHECK THE FLUID LEVEL 
FREQUENTLY.

Good luck and take very good care of that overdrive.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:02:21 -0600
Subject: RE: Bullet Connector Crimping Tool

What is the best way to solder these bullet connectors?

Cwolfe

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From: "Emil King" <ewader@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 07:33:59 PST
Subject: spottings

On a 'commandos' program last night on TLC, there was focus on the Army 
Rangers and Green Berets(?). On two separate occasions, units were 
driving Series Rovers-the ones in military dress w/ no doors, roof, or 
windshield. I didn't know our military used them-anyone care to 
elaborate?  On another note, a few images that may interest you in 
'Ernest Goes to Africa', although the movie pretty much sucks.

Emil

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 10:46:56 -0500
Subject: Re: what the goo does, was speed and stuff.... 

>Neil sez:It is an ex-MOD vehicle and the underside is coated in a thick black 
>goo, is this some form of protectant? i.e will I need to waxoyl it as well?

the answer to this one is that you need to attack the undercoating with a heavy 
scraper once a year. find the loose spots and scrape it all off. Wire brush 
rust areas and treat with paint of your choice. follow up with more underseal. 
RN uses Wurth "shutz" undercoating, its suposedly really good. No need to 
waxoyl this stuff dude. use the waxoyl inside the chassis.

later
dave

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:47:21 -0500
Subject: Bright idea

Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net> wrote:

>A 15" length of cotton rope, placed so that 4-6 inches lie in the
>forwardmost (lowest) point of the rim, and lead to and through a lugnut
>hole and down to the bonnet, will drain a rim-full of rainwater in several
>hours 

Nifty idea!  I'll try it today...especially now that I've got a *new* rim
on the bonnet.

>try different kinds of rope 

I suspect that old-fashioned braided cotton sash cord would work best.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:47:18 -0500
Subject: Bushings...NOT

Robert McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>

>what sandy says about the tightness of the bolts may be applicable to his
>petrol land rover due to vibration, but my diesel engine in SUZY runs so
>smooth that i can balance a coin on her.

That may be, but if you follow Diesel Bob down the Interstate, *his*
automatic frame oiler services *your* vehicle, AND the next four vehicles
in line! ;-) Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:47:20 -0500
Subject: P.O.D. returns

Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com> wrote:

>Just installed Hella 55w lights and tapped into High beams wire near
>left headlight.
>Worked for a few minutes and stopped while I was standing up on the
>hood adjusting them but now no low or high beam but if I pull on the
>lever

Rover never bothered to install any relays on the Series III (or earlier
vehicles, for that matter.  Most Lucas switches have three positions: DIM,
FLICKER and OFF.)  Thus, full current is flowing through the little brass
contacts on the multi-function switch.  These can get slightly burnt and
will cease to function.  Dress 'em up and function should return.

To avoid this in the future, convert the switch to low-amp mode: install
relays for the headlights and horn.  The original wiring becomes the
'trigger' for the relay.  Make up an additional fuse box - a $1 plastic
travel-type soap dish works marvelously, along with a marine "gang" 4 fuse
panel.  Use propper wire...at least 12 ga for all *including* the
gounds...and your lights will burn brighter and last longer.  Cheers		

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:16:29 -0500
Subject: Re: overdrive noise

One of the other causes of OD whine is that goofy-shaped nut at the back of
the transfer case.  If it is undertorqued, the thing will whine.  I pulled
mine off last winter because the noise was awful. The nut was not quite
finger tight.  A few whacks with the MK.II torque hammer, and the overdrive
was much quieter.  

TerriAnn mentions overdrive rebuild parts are easily available.  Are they
available for reasonable money? What american parts house want for them is
just shocking.  Can I  buy things direct from SuperWinch UK?  Rebuilding the
overdrive is defiantly on list of things to do, after I do the mainbox and
transfer case flopping around the back of 
Mr. Sinclair.

david
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:56:18 -0500
Subject: Re: overdrive noise

Re: OD parts from Superwinch:

Yes, indeed, they are available and at much better prices than US vendors too.

When I had to rebuild mine, I replaced a load of parts in it for what RN would
have had me just for the input shaft - and that included shipping to my door.

                         ajr

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:02:59 EST
Subject: Re: overdrive noise

In a message dated 11/23/98 10:59:07 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> Re: OD parts from Superwinch:

Does this mean Superwinch WILL still manufacture rebuild parts?

Nate

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 10:51:06 -0500
Subject: Re: 96 Discovery - Instrument Cluster Lighting 

>Task: To replace the switch globe on the (dash) Recirc button.
>Problem: How do you remove the globe from these buttons ?  Black 
>facing cap comes off easily enough. But I can't find an "easy" way to 
>get to the globe.  Any suggestions ?

yes. ask the rro list. this list is for series rovers only.

I don't know the address to subscribe to rro but I'm sure some one here can 
help you.

later
daveb

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:20:58 -0600
Subject: Back from the Caribbean

Hi there!

After a week out, I'm ready to begin reading old mail.
I went (on 'business') to the Caribean, to the island of Barbados.
Incredibly Beautiful place.
Being this my first experience on a "wrong-side-of-the-road-driving-country"
:-},
 I can tell you, at first it scared the ***t out of me! My innerself was
sure that we were going to hit any minute!! Of course that was not the case,
and I'm sure that it would take me something like a week to adjust myself
properly. (Its a shame I didn't got the opportunity!)
Rover Content: The British heritage was obvious. I saw a lot of Defenders
(mostly crew-cabs) and Discos around the Island, but only one series
vehicle: a SIIA 88 Station Wagon parked on the beach side.

What an experience! The only downside: an almost 4 hours delay on Miami
airport on an American Airlines flight, after waiting already 5 hours for
the plane departure.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:58:46 -0800
Subject: Re: Trivial solution - capillary drain

From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 00:47:39 -0800
Subject: Trivial solution - capillary drain

>If you carry a spare on the bonnet, you may have experienced the rusty
swill that accumulates in the rim.  The original spare on my truck was
soooo rusty, I couldn't mount a new tire on it.  

>A 15" length of cotton rope, placed so that 4-6 inches lie in the
forwardmost (lowest) point of the rim, and lead to and through a lugnut
hole and down to the bonnet, will drain a rim-full of rainwater in several
hours (as soon as it stops raining or you park under cover).  Capillary
action will pull the water up the rope, wetting the entire length, and
gravity will then siphon all the water out of the rim.

This is an interesting idea.  I, too, accumulated a fair amount of rust
inside the rim where rainwater collected and couldn't drain out.  My
solution was not nearly as sophisticated as the rope idea:  after removing
the rust and repainting the wheel, I simply drilled a small hole at the
lowest point in the rim and mounted the spare so the side with the hole
faces the front of the vehicle.  That was the end of my water
accumulation/rust problem.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:25:19 EST
Subject: cool morning starting difficulties

'73 SIII, rebuilt 2.25 with a Weber carb.

Very difficult to start on cool (for here anyway) mornings.  With the temp.
around 55 degrees or less, I pull the choke on the carb and turn it over.  It
usually catches on the first try but the slightest amount of gas kills it.
Which is bad because it doesn't want to run w/o gas either.

Re-starts are more difficult.  I have to start it for a few seconds and once
it's going, try to bump it over the low RPM area to built up the RPMs
(relatively speaking).  It takes a good mile or two before it wants to smooth
out so I just take it easy and nurse it along.  After that, it runs like a
top.  

Daytime running is easier but still it is cold-natured.  

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX  AZ  USA
'63 Series IIA88 SW  "Soldado Sangrando "
'64 Series IIA Dormobile "Humpty Dumpty"  (interior currently in pieces)
'73 Series III 88" Soft top "Basil"  (daily driver until it hits 110 F / 43 C)
'95 Disco "Great White"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 07:33:18 -1000
Subject: Re: BMW X5

>Well you do have to wonder at the "utility" in SUV
>John and Muddy

huh, I always thought it was "urban", as in better not leave any urban areas
and expect to make it back alive.

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:25:48 +0200
Subject: Re: spring bushings

"David R. Bobeck" wrote:
>  >Nice.  Whatever happened to the idea of the virtual pub?  
> Pubs aren't always warm and fuzzy.

Should we call this the first virtual bar fight?
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:42:27 -0600
Subject: How many amps in the fuse

I'm sorry if this was talked about before, but I didn't found it.

I'm building a whole new circuit on the car to run my two pairs of aux.
lights and the electric fan I put on the rad.
I already bought all the pieces: switches, relays, cable and some fuse
holders.
So the next step are stetics and connections.
BUT, now I see I missed a good part here: How do I calculate the amps on a
circuit and the fuse for it?
For example, the big lights are running with a 130W bulb each, that means
260W power, but how many amps are they sucking up?
Can anybody tell me the formula for this (if it is simple, or the result if
it is not!!!!)

AND, the fuse is supposed to run at the same amps as the circuit, or a
little lower?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:44:32 -0500
Subject: Re: spottings

Um, everyone (except you) knows that these are mil-spec 110s with all the 
doors and stuff removed and a Safety Devices roll cage, with hardpoints 
for weaponry.
See 'em up close on the Mall here in DC this spring during Armed Forces 
Recognition Week, or at Fort Ben.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 07:54:39 -1000
Subject: Re: Strange front hub additions.

Rob,
sounds like you might have an 'automatic hub'  I just saw a tech blip about
them in Novembers LROI magazine.  If you lift the vehicle off the ground and
engage 2wd and the front doesn't turn, engage 4wd and it does, then that is
what you have.  According to the response in the tech article there are no
spare parts available.
They didn't go into much detail about them, just mentioned that because of
how they work, there is no engine compression braking on the front axle.
Other auto hubs I have seen have a clutch pack inside.  Engaging 4wd puts
torgue to the clutches and causes the ft wheels to spin.  BUT, the wheel
spinning does not place torgue on the system.
Pete
ps. let me know and I can scan and send ya the little posting in the mag.

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From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:49:39 -0500
Subject: overdrive parts

<<Alan tells us you can buy parts from SuperWinch directly.  >>

What he doesn't tell us, is how do you get a hold of them?  Does anyone have
a phone or fax number for them?  

David
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:55:40 -0700
Subject: Re: cool morning starting difficulties

Gerry,

We have these problems and more here in Boulder, CO. I'd suggest a couple of
things.

What you might be experiencing is a little condensation build up over-night in 
the
carb. this can then lead to a slight bit of carb icing when you go to start up.
Sometimes just removing the filter/filter neck from the carb for start-up will
help.

One trick I've used is to be certain to pump the peddal a few times to "bath" 
the
carb bowl in fuel and wash the icing out. Don't get carried away as this will 
dump
too much fuel onto the piston heads.You might also need to adjust the mixture
ratio this can help by working with a little bit richer mixture. Only slightly
though!!

The last option is to aim for getting a block heater from Pep-Boys.

Good Luck,

John Wood

GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:55:56 -0600
Subject: RE: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

><< I dont know if this applies to LRs too, but on a previous car I had,
when
> the conducts-tubbings were filled with air, -previous to priming the
> system-, the pedal would stay down. It required manual pumping of the
pedal
> to obtain some pressure from the pump.
> How is your DOT 3 level?

...
>Secondly, DOT THREE!!!!!!!!!! NEVER use DOT 3 in any brake system that uses
>natural rubber seals. Some of the later Girling systems used Neoprene seals
>but for the most part all Girling systems should use DOT 4 fluid. Using the
>wrong fluid can prove catastrophic.

You see, thats why I said I didn't know if it applied to LRs. Well, it seems
to be it doesn't.

:-(

Sorry!!!

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:00:29 -0500
Subject: Re: How many amps in the fuse

Volts, amps and other goodies...

OK - simple calculations. Anyone remember Ohm's Law?

Manuel, for what you need we can figure pretty easily.

One figures the amperes needed by the following calculation:

Power (watts) equals volts times amperes. So, to figure the amperes needed at
13.8 volts, we divide the wattage by the voltage - this gives us the number of
amperes.

260 / 13.8 = 18.84 amps. Call it 20 amps to be comfortable - round numbers work
easier, and you need to allow for more current on start-up.

The fan is a bit more of a problem - we don't know what its current draw is, as
it's most likely not labeled with a current rating. Let's just assume the same
as the lights - that's about right, and if it's off the popping uses will tell
us....<grin>. Seriously, i wouldn't expect it to be more than 20 amps or so
except on start-up.

The way this looks, I think I'd fuse the fan with a 25-amp fuse, and the lights
should do OK on a 20-amp. Both lights and motors have start-up surges, and
10-20% is not an unacceptable rating for either of them. A catastrophic short
will take even a 25-amp fuse in very short order, so there's no danger of
burnout of wiring.

               Alan

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:00:16 -1000
Subject: Re: spottings

>On a 'commandos' program last night on TLC, there was focus on the Army
>Rangers and Green Berets(?). On two separate occasions, units were
>driving Series Rovers-the ones in military dress w/ no doors, roof, or
>windshield. I didn't know our military used them-anyone care to
>elaborate?  On another note, a few images that may interest you in
>'Ernest Goes to Africa', although the movie pretty much sucks.
>Emil

The US Military was very impressed by the Rovers performance in Desert
Storm.  The Ranger battalions ordered a handfull of them, fully modified.
>From what I read they were modified defenders.  I think 90's but it's been
awhile.  Should have had full roll cages with a weapon hardpoint on the
passenger side and one in the rear on top of the roll bar.  With the turbo
deisel they are lighter and faster then the HMMVV.
Pete

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:05:49 -0800
Subject: Re: BMW X5

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 18:56:46 -0400
Subject: Re: BMW X5

Vel Natarajan wrote:

>> It's not an SUV but an "SAV - Sports Activity Vehicle".
>> Um yeah, whatever...

>Well you do have to wonder at the "utility" in SUV

Many of you have probably already read the extensive reviews of the new
model Discovery in the current (November) issue of Land Rover Owner
International magazine.  I thought it was interesting to read that prior to
embarking on the redesign of the Discovery, Land Rover put together what was
apparently a very complete profile of the person who buy this type of
vehicle.  They found that less than 10 percent of Discovery buyers ever take
their vehicles off the pavement.  As a consequence, almost all the new
features on the extensively redesigned Discovery are geared toward the car
driver who will use a Discovery every day on paved roads, not toward someone
who intends to use the vehicle off-road.

According to the review in LRO, many of the new Discovery's features make
the vehicle just as capable off-road than the original Discovery, if not
more so, but the truth is that SUVs, or SAVs (which seems to be a more
appropriate acronym),  are moving rapidly away from meeting true off-road
needs, and instead are simply becoming big road cars.  The SUV, at least in
the US, has replaced the full-size station wagon of the '50s, '60s, and
'70s, yet offers a more macho and upscale image than the "soccer mom"
mini-van.  In actual fact, the mini-van, or midi-van, is probably the better
vehicle for the purpose most SUVs are put to, but with the extensive image
campaigns on TV and in magazines, most of which tout the rugged
"go-anywhere" aspect of SUVs, I suspect there are few people, particularly
men, who are willing to risk tarnishing their image by purchasing a van.

As for those of us who are more interested in the "U" in SUV than the "S,"
the solution would seem to rest in older vehicles.  People with Series Land
Rovers, Defenders, and older Range Rovers should hang on to them and keep
them running, because there are fewer and fewer new vehicles on the market
today that truly fill that Utility niche.  This particularly applies to
people in the US, where the utility versions of the Defender, Toyota Land
Cruiser, and Nissan Patrol (or whatever they call it these days) are not
available.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:26:29 EST
Subject: Coolant flow and heaters

A heater is only a heat exchanger with a fan.  There is a great deal of
technical information available in the industrial world about the
performance of heat exchangers.  This performance (usually defined in Watts)
is a function of:

1.  Coolant temperature at inlet.
2.  Coolant flow.
3.  Coolant pressure drop.
4.  Air temperature at inlet.
5.  Air flow.
6.  Air pressure drop.

Previous postings have explored the benefits of series versus parallel
plumbing for multiple heaters.  The real challenge for the frostbit Land
Rover owner is to increase coolant temperature and flow through the heat
exchanger and to increase airflow through it.

The water pump must be in good working order.  Auxiliary pumps are an option
for cold climates.  Proper thermostat type and temperature are critical.
The coolant flow path must be free of obstructions, restrictions or sharp
corners.  A limiting factor in coolant flow is the smallest opening through
which it must flow.  A rusty pipe or rodent carcass in the path can keep
coolant from flowing from pump to heater.  The heater valve at the rear of
the 2.25 head turns 90 degrees and restricts flow.  This could be replaced
with a larger ID, straight, ball valve and a more gradually curved pipe.

Two other items to consider are fan and ducting.  No matter how much hot
coolant goes through your Smiths shinburner, if the fan does not move a lot
of air through it, you are not going to be roasted out of your Rover.  The
Series 2a defroster system with it's mastodon intestines and multiple right
angle ducts is a monument to inefficient design.  In cold weather mine will
barely keep frost off the inside of the windscreen.

The warmest Land Rovers I have known were fitted with Kodiak or some other
heater.  Underhood installations can allow fresh air to be heated and blown
into the interior.  This helps overcome humidity buildup in the passenger
compartment as well as loss of heat through leaks.

Paul Donohue
1965 Land Rover 109

It is easier to curse the darkness than to light a candle.

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:31:35 EST
Subject: Crimp vs Solder

In the production world, connectors are crimped because it takes less time
and less skilled workers.  When using an automated press with spool fed
connectors, the result is a consistent good crimp with high retention and
electrical contact.  This kind of clean ISO-9000 setup is not found under my
Land Rover nor in my garage.  For my kind of automotive repairs and
installations, soldering gives a better connection.

A wiring harness made with crimped connectors by a properly equipped cable
shop should prove as reliable as one that is soldered.  Remember that a
poorly soldered connection is just as prone to fail as a poorly crimped one.

Paul Donohue
1965 109

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:39:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive

From: "Ed Meyer" <emeyer@bowdoin.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 00:27:25 -0500
Subject: Overdrive

>I am a NEW 1973 series III owner (i.e My 1st rover). The fairly overdrive
on
this rover screams so loud that it causes actual pain in my ears (making it
useless). Is this normal for overdrives. I have heard they are loud, but
this one is unbearable. If it is so loud, dose anyone have an idea has to
why?

Everyone's hearing sensitivity is different, and it's impossible via the
internet to determine if I would find your overdrive as noisy as you do.
But your description certainly implies that your overdrive is abnormally
noisy.  I have owned a 1973 Series III since it was new, and have been
running a Fairey overdrive for most of the past 25 years.  The first
overdrive I had was actually fairly quiet, and I didn't notice much of a
noise increase at all after I installed it.  It gave excellent service in
daily driving for almost 10 years, but due to my letting it run low on oil
one too many times, it finally sheared the teeth off the little input drive
gear.  I drove without an overdrive for awhile, and then had a brand new one
installed when I had the transmission/transfer case overhauled in the late
1980s to replace all the case gaskets, which had pretty much disintegrated
and were letting lube oil seep out almost as fast as I put it in.

The overhauled unit and new overdrive make about the same amount of noise on
acceleration and in cruise as the original drivetrain, but in over-run
(compression) they make quite a howl, especially at higher road speeds.
It's not ear-splitting, but it's definitely noisy.  One source of the noise
may not be the overdrive at all, but the transfer case.  In the overhaul,
the intermediate gear was replaced with a new gear, but the mainshaft gears
are original.  As these are straight-cut gears, some of the noise may be due
to having new gear teeth meshing with old gear teeth that had worn to match
the "cut" of the original intermediate gear.

Or the noise may be from the replacement overdrive, although the noise does
not change when, during over-run, I shift the overdrive into neutral.  But I
haven't analyzed the gear train enough to figure out if putting the
overdrive in neutral would eliminate it as a noise source: it may not make
any difference.

One thing you could do is have your overdrive overhauled, even though it may
be functioning just fine.  There may be too much play in a shaft which is
causing the noise, a problem that could be cured with the installation of
shims or thrust washers.  There are a lot of shims in the overdrive: if some
of these are worn, broken, or missing, it could set up a situation that
could generate quite a racket.  Or you might have a worn bearing or bushing.
I don't know if overdrive parts are still available- the Rovers North
catalog still lists them all- but the shims and washers are probably
standard sizes, and some of the bearings or bushings might be, as well.

You could try add STP to the overdrive.  STP isn't recommended for
syncromesh transmissions like the Fairey overdrive because it makes things
too slippery (and I'd NEVER put it in an engine), but its super-high
viscosity might "tighten up" some of the clearances for a little while, at
least until the overdrive warms up.  If you add a lubricant like this and
the noise goes away, or diminishes, I would then suspect you have a
clearance problem or a bushing/bearing wear problem.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 13:10:56 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: spring bushings 

>Should we call this the first virtual bar fight?

hee hee. They don't call it the bloody knuckles for nuttin' mate...

my these pint glasses sure do have thick bottoms...all the better to smash 'eds 
with...

er...cut me off, I've had too many...

later
dave/g.HELL

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 13:16:11 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: spottings 

>Um, everyone (except you) knows that these are mil-spec 110s with all 
>the doors and stuff removed and a Safety Devices roll cage, with 
>hardpoints for weaponry.

don't know if its actually a safety devices cage or not, but it is rahter stout 
nonetheless. Also they get armor plated floors and diff guards that run the 
length of the axles. they are modified tdi's. no windsheild. big winch. a la 
pink panther basically. looks like they are made from a Station Wagon body by 
the sahpe of the cut out in the rear tub.
Rovers North has told me that they got alot of calls from the military techs 
when the first ones were brought on line...

later
daveb

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:34:29 -0600
Subject: RE: How many amps in the fuse

>The way this looks, I think I'd fuse the fan with a 25-amp fuse, and the
lights
>should do OK on a 20-amp. Both lights and motors have start-up surges, and
>10-20% is not an unacceptable rating for either of them. A catastrophic
short
>will take even a 25-amp fuse in very short order, so there's no danger of
>burnout of wiring.

>From previous knowledge of the subject (read: Plain Guessing!), I had
assumed 20amp was just about right for the lights and had bought them, but
for the fan I had assumed the same. The un-educated guess proved right. :-)
I will check carefully on the fan to see if it reads something somewhere to
get a more accurate fuse to it, if not I will go with your recomendation.
Thank you Alan.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:28:56 -0800
Subject: Re: spottings: TGMBC on Comedy Channel 5pm PST

The Gods Must Be Crazy  is on Comedy Central at 5 pm Pacific Central Time
TODAY (11-23-98)

Your satellite may vary...

bboT

At 07:33 AM 11/23/98 PST, you wrote:

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 15:04:31 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: BMW X5 

From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca> 
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 18:56:46 -0400
Subject: Re: BMW X5
> Land Rover put together ... a very complete profile of the person who buy 
>this type of vehicle.  They found that less than 10 percent of Discovery 
>buyers ever take their vehicles off the pavement.  As a consequence, almost 
>all the new features on the extensively redesigned Discovery are geared 
>toward the car driver who will use a Discovery every day on paved roads, 

Good job men, just lost 10% of your sales...

..> there are fewer and fewer new vehicles on the market today that truly 
>fill that Utility niche. 

ypu. gotta buy a new pickup for $25+K...there are some relaly nice heavy duty 
versions of American P/u's available. Too bad driving one is about as much fun 
as a cement beach ball. 
God bless America.

later
dave

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 98 14:21:29 -0800
Subject: Re: overdrive parts

><<Alan tells us you can buy parts from SuperWinch directly.  >>
>What he doesn't tell us, is how do you get a hold of them?  Does anyone have
;>a phone or fax number for them?  

No but I have a link to their web site from my web site.  The URL is: 
http://www.superwinch.com/

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:00:14 -0400
Subject: Re: cool morning starting difficulties

GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

> '73 SIII, rebuilt 2.25 with a Weber carb.
> Very difficult to start on cool (for here anyway) mornings.  With the temp.
> around 55 degrees or less, I pull the choke on the carb and turn it over.  It
> usually catches on the first try but the slightest amount of gas kills it.
> Which is bad because it doesn't want to run w/o gas either.
> Re-starts are more difficult.  I have to start it for a few seconds and once
> it's going, try to bump it over the low RPM area to built up the RPMs
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Daytime running is easier but still it is cold-natured.
> Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Gerry check to see that the choke is shutting the butterfly all the way. This is
the usual cause of the problems you describe. If this is OK then you  likely 
have
the float level too low.
   John and Muddy

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:50:23 -0600
Subject: Rear axle leaking

Before I went on my -almost- holiday trip to the caribbean (yea, right!), I
took the the precaution of disconnecting the bateries, just to be sure it
would crank up just right when I got back.
Well, just that it did, BUT it had a 'little' surprise for me:

It had a little pond of infamous 90wt out of the rear right side, on the
outside of the wheel. It wasn't leaking before I parked. And, after I began
moving it it bace obvious that it has an EXXON-Baldez tendency.

It would make some sense if during use it began leaking, but PARKED?

Any ideas?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Wolfe, Charles" <CWolfe@smdc.org>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:03:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Strange front hub additions.

Rob

I have had a rover with a similar design lock out (can't rember the name)
They had about a pair of f inch metal strips that you had to fold out 90
degrees and then use as a lever and turn and refold back to the hub.  Don't
knowq if it is the same hub or not.

Cwolfe

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:34:34 EST
Subject: Re: Rear axle leaking

In a message dated 98-11-23 18:55:41 EST, you write:

 It had a little pond of infamous 90wt out of the rear right side, on the
 outside of the wheel. It wasn't leaking before I parked. And, after I began
 moving it it bace obvious that it has an EXXON-Baldez tendency.
 
 It would make some sense if during use it began leaking, but PARKED?
 
 Any ideas? >>

     You've been pulling your axles quite a bit recently, haven't you?
Probably the gaskets are buggered up.  I use both a gasket and RTV to keep
mine from leaking.
     As to why it began when parked, it may be that only part of the gasket is
bad and is not sealing.  When you parked it before your trip, it may have been
parked "leaky gasket side down".
     Check the level in your diff., top it up if needed, and drive it for a
week and see what happens.  Just remember to keep an eye on that oil level.

Enzo

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; boundary="---- 
=_NextPart_000_01BE1701.083EEBA0" ]
From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:52:44 -0800
Subject: RE: cool morning starting difficulties

Gerry wrote,

'73 SIII, rebuilt 2.25 with a Weber carb.
Very difficult to start on cool (for here anyway) mornings.  With the =
temp.  around 55 degrees or less, I pull the choke on the carb and turn =
it over.  It usually catches on the first try but the slightest amount =
of gas kills it.  Which is bad because it doesn't want to run w/o gas =
either.
Re-starts are more difficult.  I have to start it for a few seconds and =
once
it's going, try to bump it over the low RPM area to built up the RPMs =
(relatively speaking).  It takes a good mile or two before it wants to =
smooth out so I just take it easy and nurse it along.  After that, it =
runs like a top. 
Daytime running is easier but still it is cold-natured. 
For the most part it sounds as if your carburetor is out of adjustment.  =
When the choke is engaged it should increase the idle speed =
automatically.  I would start by looking the choke linkage over.  Here =
in the great Northwest, I have to use the choke starting in late August. =
 I usually let the Rhino idle with the choke engaged to warm up for a =
few minutes before I give it any gas.  I have a 2 barrel model mounted =
on a Pierce manifold.  Before I had a hot water jacket welded to the =
manifold, I had a problem with the carburetor icing which caused a sever =
lack in performance.  Sent the manifold back to Pierce for the retrofit =
and developed some interesting plumbing, now it runs like a champ in any =
weather.

Good luck

John Putnam & the Rhino ('70 SIIA 2.25)
Forest Grove, OR

------ =_NextPart_000_01BE1701.083EEBA0
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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:15:37 EST
Subject: Dormie List?

Can someone on the (US?) Dormobile List please *contact me directly* with the
"subscribe info" for the list?

I met a fellow LR owner this past weekend, and while looking over his 88, he
mentioned owning a 6 cyl LR 109 as well, anyway it turned out to be an
original Dormie, so I told him i'd track down the US owners who've set up a
list (TeriAnn?) and fwd the info.

Thanks,

(off-list fer now, but checking the digest once in a while)

--pat.

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:48:01 EST
Subject: Re: Dormie List?

In a message dated 11/23/98 7:20:20 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
SPYDERS@aol.com writes:

<< Can someone on the (US?) Dormobile List please *contact me directly* with
the
 "subscribe info" for the list? >>

Might as well share what little I know in case others are interested.

Nick Baggerly set the list up.  I'm not sure of the subscribing process but
the mail address of the list is dormobile_owner_register@izap.com

Might try the default and send a subscribe message to the address above.

TAW might have the official subscribing procedure..... sorry!

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:33:45 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dormie List?

On Mon, 23 Nov 1998 GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

:Nick Baggerly set the list up.  I'm not sure of the subscribing process but
:the mail address of the list is dormobile_owner_register@izap.com
:
:Might try the default and send a subscribe message to the address above.

I wouldn't.  It is not terribly polite to send a subscribe message to
amiling list.  It appears that dormobile_owner_register@izap.com is a
majordomo-run list.  You might send a subscribe message to
majordomo@izap.com.  If you muff the syntax, you should get a helpful
message explaining majordomo's syntax.  

It appears Majordomo runs most of the mailing lists on the 'Net these
days, so it is fairly safe to send a request to
majordomo@thedomain.hosting.thelist.youare.interested.in.  Worst that will
happen is that the mail will bounce.  If it does, try
list-name-request@whereever.com,  and then if that fails, consider sending
a message to the list at large.  You will annoy fewer people.

David

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:43:33 EST
Subject: Re: Dormie List?

In a message dated 11/23/98 8:34:51 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
david@infocom.com writes:

:I wouldn't.  It is not terribly polite to send a subscribe message to
 amiling list.
:You will annoy fewer people.

You're probably correct.  If there were hundreds of people on the list, I
wouldn't have made the suggestion but since there are probably less than 20,
even the occasional annoying message confirms that the list is at least up and
running.  I don't think there have been more than 4 e-mails on it over the
last week!

Now, if only more people could resurrect more Dormobiles!

Thanks for the suggestion!  My apologies for the bad list manners.... 
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:47:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dormie List?

On Mon, 23 Nov 1998 GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

:
:Now, if only more people could resurrect more Dormobiles!

If someone wants to give me one, I am sure I could manage to resurrect
it...

david

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:13:46 EST
Subject: Re: BMW X5

In a message dated 98-11-22 18:02:13 EST, you write:

 Well you do have to wonder at the "utility" in SUV
 
 John and Muddy
  >>
Now that you mention it, Where did they get the "sport" part?

Bill Lawrence

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:09:30 EST
Subject: Unsubscriing for a couple 'o days....... no real LR content

Between work tomorrow, a Coyotes hockey game tomorrow night and flying to
South Carolina early on Wednesday, it's probably best if I depart the real-
time list until after Sunday.  I'm not sure I'll carry a computer with me for
once and I'd hate to start bouncing e-mails.  I'll probably go through some
form of withdrawal..... 

I hope everyone who celebrates it has a happy and safe Thanksgiving.  As corny
as it may sound, I'm thankful for this forum and the vehicles "what brung us
here"!  

Take care!
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
Series: 3, Coilers: 1

PS: to unsubscribe, do I send an unsubscribe email to lro@land-
rover.team.net?!  Just kidding!

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:35:37 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive

In a message dated 98-11-23 00:27:05 EST, you write:

 I am a NEW 1973 series III owner (i.e My 1st rover). The fairly overdrive on
 this rover screams so loud that it causes actual pain in my ears (making it
 useless). Is this normal for overdrives. I have heard they are loud, but
 this one is unbearable. If it is so loud, dose anyone have an idea has to
 why?
 
 E Meyer
 
 >>
Obviously this part is worn out, useless and possibly dangerous about the only
thing you can do is remove it and send it to me for disposal. Sorry. 

If you fell for that please email me for my mailing address.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:47:29 EST
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

In a message dated 98-11-23 05:53:16 EST, you write:

 >a modulating oil pressure sending unit
 eh, where can I find a hole to fit it?
 
 2.25 diesel, by the way (on the way, mostly)
 
 >>
I think the standard location was the pressure side of the oil filter housing.
The SIIs had a fitting for the mechanical guage there.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:58:13 +1100
Subject: Sparkin' Plug Questions

Peter M. Kaskan wrote:
>Has anybody noticed any difference in teh plugs specified for a
>high vs. low compression head?  I have RN12YC Champions in
>there now.

>I bought the ones for the IIa today RN9YC champions.

>Which one of these burns hotter?

The N12Y is a hotter plug than the N9Y  (the R indicates a resistor
plug for ignition noise suppression)

>Should that one be in the low or high head?  Why?

I wish I knew.  My first Rangie had N9Y, this one uses N12Y - Why??

Ron

Cheers - Peter

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:05:24 EST
Subject: Re: spottings

The US Army 75th Division (Rangers) uses 110 inch Landrovers in the form of
RSOVs (Ranger Special Operations Vehicles) They chose them over HMMWVs because
they are smaller and more easily air portable and will carry a better load. As
far as I know this is the only use of Landrovers by a US Army unit. On the
other hand I don't know of any Jeeps being used.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:18:21 EST
Subject: Re: spring bushings

In a message dated 98-11-23 12:45:54 EST, you write:

 "David R. Bobeck" wrote:
 >  >Nice.  Whatever happened to the idea of the virtual pub?  
 > Pubs aren't always warm and fuzzy.
 Should we call this the first virtual bar fight?
  
 Regards
 
 Paul Oxley >>

LOOK OUT HE'S GOT A KNIFE!!!!!!!!!

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:25:36 EST
Subject: Re: How many amps in the fuse

Power (Watts) = Volts x Amps so the amperage of that circuit would be 
260 Watts/ 12 volts or 21.7 Amps. You should size the fuse larger, say 30 amps
to avoid burning the fuse every time the lights are turned on. 

Good luck 

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 01:06:23 EST
Subject: Re: How many amps in the fuse

In a message dated 98-11-24 00:27:08 EST, you write:

 Power (Watts) = Volts x Amps so the amperage of that circuit would be 
 260 Watts/ 12 volts or 21.7 Amps. You should size the fuse larger, say 30
amps
 to avoid burning the fuse every time the lights are turned on. 
 
 Good luck 
 
 Bill Lawrence
 Albq, NM >>

Er...Um...Ah...Yeah, 12 volts NOMINAL! ..... Never mind.

Bill (I really did pass that class) Lawrence
Albq, Nm

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:06:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear axle leaking

>      You've been pulling your axles quite a bit recently, haven't you?
> Probably the gaskets are buggered up.  I use both a gasket and RTV to keep
> mine from leaking.
>      As to why it began when parked, it may be that only part of the gasket is
> bad and is not sealing.  When you parked it before your trip, it may have been
> parked "leaky gasket side down".
>      Check the level in your diff., top it up if needed, and drive it for a
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> week and see what happens.  Just remember to keep an eye on that oil level.
> Enzo

Something else to check is the axle case breather. The little check ball 
assembly
on the top left side of the axle housing. 2 cents worth.

Tom

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 02:08:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: HELP!  Valve Adjusting!

Hi All
	Well, I adjusted the valves for the first time.  I figured I should
do it since I never have, and its been through about 8000 miles in the last
14 months since I bought it, and I'm taking it 700 miles in the next week.
I followed the book directions.
Before I did it, the engine sounded normal to me.  Now it is soo much
quieter and smoother!!  But I'm still concearned; it is now more
"clackety."  Very prominent at idle, not audible above 15or20 mphs.  I feel
I got them pretty close to .010, but even if they are slightly off, they
are much better than before!
	Can you tell me if all 2.25s sound "clackety."  I can't tell if
this clack comes once per explosion, or only on one explosion.  The valves
were over probably to about .025 in!  Except number 7.  This one was under
.010.  The clack dosen't come from the valve cover being hit.  Tommorrow
I'll use my 4ft hearing aid and try to pinpoint the clack.  Might this be a
burned exaust valve?
	So, what should I do?  Do it over again?  Drive it like it is?

HELP - I'm getting nervous that either I messed something up, uncovered
something more serious, or that I won't get any Turkey on Thursday!!
Arrrgghh!

Thanks for the heater help BTW, those are put in, and in series, just got
to hook up the wires.  Well, off to bed.  Talk tommorrow.  G'Night - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 03:11:26 EST
Subject: Re: HELP!  Valve Adjusting!

Peter,

Could be that you adjusted the valves a bit too soon on the cam (the lobes not
being down completely), or, could be that the lifters - possibly
pushrods/rockers - are worn.

My SII 88" has one valve that does that, no matter how many times I re-adjust
it, and I was told by a fairly experienced LR mechanic that it's a worn
lifter. Being the thrash the car 'till it's dead kinda guy that I am, (along
with just having sold the 88") I'm not really gonna worry about it!

My diesel makes clakety-clack noises too - but it's normal in sound.

Charles

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From: INDIO2 <Indio2@cris.com>
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 04:58:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Dreaded spring bushings

Guess I should have checked my email this weekend to put out the flames -
I receive the list in batch mode.  A few respondents to my post seem to be
short a left shackle (in the brain that is) - they would drive off a cliff
if LR told them it was the best way to let "air" out of the tires.  Yes
Dave B - you are probably more of an expert on elastomers than I am - at
least when contemplating the elasticity of your own drool.  Come on  - you
will have to improve your rhetoric if you want to flame with the big boys.
Most of your reply contains my text - mainly because you have little to
say on your own except absurd overbearing statements.  I would like to
include some of your text here but could not find much of substance.

With that fun stuff out of the way:

As said in my first post - if the shackle bolts are tightened so that the
inner sleeves bind to the shackle plates ride quality and articulation
will suffer.  The more the spring varies from resting state the harder
that bushing is going to try and prevent the spring from traveling.  The
more time spent with crossed up axles the more the bushings will wear
prematurely.  I will now address the two main issues brought up by some
list members - shackle movement and metal wear.

Someone mentioned a diagram and wrote "the rubber in the bushings have
plenty of compliance to accept the distortion" and "the motion of the pins
as related to the spring eyes is not as great as it may seem". I
appreciate the input but do not agree.  Look at the diagram and determine
the degree change between the shackle plate and the main leaf as the rear
suspension travels.  OK twist my arm I will do it.  My Series III is an 88
with standard shackles and springs in decent condition with the limiting
straps installed.  With the axle at the bump stop the angle formed by the
shackle plate and main leaf is 30 degrees.  At full travel (against the
limiting strap) the angle is 75 degrees.   That is a change of 45 degrees
over the full travel.  Now with my springs in good condition I have more
compression travel than droop - the split is about 65/35.  Taking the
degree change from axle resting state to bump stop and translating this to
the amount the bushing is twisted you will find the bushing is required to
stretch to over double the thickness.  In fact if you take into account the
side to side deflection (like when one wheel is high on a rock) the
bushing distortion becomes even greater on the opposing edges.  This is no
trivial amount of distortion.  The rotation may appear small on your
diagram but you have to consider the distortion as it relates to the
bushing thickness - in this case only 1/8th inch thick. To make matters
even worse the bushing is encased and bonded between two metal sleeves
that limit the ability to distort in other dimensions so as to accommodate
the twisting distortion.

Could LR have designed their shackles with the idea of the rubber bushing
accepting all the twisting force - sure.  Like other auto makers LR did
some good and not so good things - the weak 10 spline axles come to mind.
Look under several trucks and you will see many different shackle designs.
Think about it - the whole reason the shackle is there is to allow fore
and aft movement of the leaf spring.  Anything that inhibits fore and aft
movement is working against the main purpose of the shackle.  Binding the
shackle bushings will work directly against the reason the shackle is
there in the first place.

The other concern brought up that I do agree with is a fear of excessive
metal to metal wear by not binding the inner sleeves.  Think about the
design of the threaded type shackle - the bolts can be tightened as
desired and then the locknuts can be tightened to hold the bolts in place
relative to the plates   The bolts will move with the shackle plates so
there will be no wear of the shackle holes due to rotation.  The wear
surface will be between the bolt and the inner sleeve - this is why I
recommended a good synthetic grease on the bolts before installing.  The
other potential wear surface is if the inner sleeve grinds on the shackle
plate.  A good trick to avoid this is to install a fender washer between
each plate and bushing.  I recommend this even if you decide to bind the
inner sleeves because it will still protect the plates from rubbing on the
spring eyes - my Series shackles have a ridge ground into them from this
friction.

And no, grease fittings are not a prerequisite of this setup as several
other vehicles use this design and yet do not have grease fittings.  I
have experienced minimal wear on the bolt/inner sleeve surface - just some
scoring.  If you are still worried then at your 6 month or one year
service intervals apply new grease - it is easier than buying and
replacing the bushings and you get all the advantages of free swinging
shackles.

To summarize I am in no way advocating leaving the shackle bolts loose -
only not tightening them to the extreme so as to bind shackle movement.
If you are into show restoration or drive mostly on the road then this
topic is about as interesting as the dreaded "Ask me about East Coast
Rovers" thread.  But if you go for the kind of rock crawling done here
in Colorado then you are doing anything you can to keep the rubber on the
trail and axle articulation issues are quite important.

Tim Czajka
1972 Series III 88

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