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From: "David M. Schwarz" <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 09:29:19 -0500
Subject: BMW X5

Today's N.Y.Times ran a picture of BMW's announced intended competition to
Lexus, Lincoln, Cadillac and Mercedes' off road vehicle.  
to be first sold in the U.S. in the year 2000 and to be built at BMW's
Spartanberg, South Carolina plant. 
Why not a version of the Range Rover? 

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 11:02:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

"Peter M. Kaskan" wrote:

> Hi All -
>         I bought a second heater, one to put where the Smiths is put.  The
> one I've got now, I'll put in the back.
>         So, will there be enough coolant flow for these?  I don't want to
> burn out the pump (which BTW, was rebuilt in the spring).
>         Which direction does the coolant flow, out of the front or the back
> of the head?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Cheers - Peter
> (trying to stay warm up here in Ithaca

You will have enough flow and heat for both heaters but remember to route the
flow through both  heaters in series do not try to tee into the existing hoses.
The water will always travel the route of least resistance which will mean
there will very little to the rear heater if not in series.
If you mount the rear heater higher than the regular it is advisable to make
provision for bleeding air out at the highest point so that you can get the
full amount of coolant into the system. You will have to do this with the
engine running, topping up the coolant as needed.
  John and Muddy

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 09:47:35 -0600
Subject: Bullet Connector Crimping Tool

Does anyone out there know of bullet connector crimping pliers that are
available in the U.S.?  The regular old Stanley crimping pliers I have
flatten out the connector whereas factory crimped ones maintain their
roundness.  I live in the middle of nowhere so something available from
Sears or Western Auto would fit the bill best.  Thanks in advance,

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor"

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From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 10:08:05 -0600
Subject: Re: BMW X5

From: David M. Schwarz <dschwarz@pipeline.com>
>Today's N.Y.Times ran a picture of BMW's announced intended competition to
>Lexus, Lincoln, Cadillac and Mercedes' off road vehicle.
>to be first sold in the U.S. in the year 2000 and to be built at BMW's
>Spartanberg, South Carolina plant.
>Why not a version of the Range Rover?

According to this past weeks Autoweek magazine which I have in front of
me...

"Rover, in fact, will use the X5's platform as the basis for its next Range
Rover, due in late 2001."

It should range between $41,600 - $54,700.  The first 2 gas engines offered
will both be V8's: a 235hp 3.5liter and the 540's 286hp 4.4liter.  Later, X5
will get MBW's new 3.0 I-6, (230hp) which will replace the 2.8 6cyl in BMWs
current lineup.  2 common-rail diesel engines will likely go to Europe.
(184hp I-6),and a 4.0 V8 which will have 368lb-ft of torque available at
1800rpm.  They will eventually come out with an X5 M, powered by the new
M5's 400hp 5.0L V8.  All wil get ZF-sourced 5-speed automatics sending power
to the electronically controlled full-time 4wd system with a variable
torque-split center diff.

It also has the air-suspension developed in conjunction with LR.

It's not an SUV but an "SAV - Sports Activity Vehicle".

Um yeah, whatever...

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 98 08:11:21 -0800
Subject: Re: Bullet Connector Crimping Tool

>Does anyone out there know of bullet connector crimping pliers that are
>available in the U.S.?  The regular old Stanley crimping pliers I have
;>flatten out the connector whereas factory crimped ones maintain their
;>roundness.  I live in the middle of nowhere so something available from
;>Sears or Western Auto would fit the bill best.  Thanks in advance,

Humm... I have only seen soldered on bullet connectors in genuine factory 
wiring harnesses.  Mind you I have only had four British cars in my life 
(1969 88, 1960 109, 1961 TR3A, 1968 MGBGT)  I installed a new wiring 
harness in the TR3A a couple of years ago and it had crimped bullet 
connectors.  I replaced the headlamp sub harnesses on the 109 last year 
and the new ones had crimp on bullet connectors.  It appears that the 
companies making new replacement harnesses are crimping on the bullet 
connectors but it appears to me that the original factory harnesses, at 
least during the sixties, had soldered on bullet connectors.  When I 
rewired my 109 last year I soldered on all the bullet connectors.  Except 
for the headlamp sub harnesses, I built my entire harness from a pile of 
bullet connectors and lengths of colourful striped wires.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Thomas Spoto <tspoto@az.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 08:09:18 -0800
Subject: Re: Half-shaft blues

I had a stuck shaft once. It was due to the previous owner placing a 1/8"
steel plate between the differential and the axle housing. There was no
gasket just lots of orange silicone sealant. Only reason I could find for
this to have been done was to keep the ring gear from contacting the front
of the axle housing as it had been dented in. Why they didn't hammer out the
dent, I'll never know. With the 1/8" offset the axles didn't like to turn
easily, engage the hubs and you got this weird vibration as the axles
twisted. How they got the axles into the diff splines is another mystery. I
replaced the axle housing to be safe.

Tom Spoto

Todd Ondick wrote:

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From: "Braman Wing" <bcw6@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 09:00:32 PST
Subject: Re: Coolant flow and heaters

>	I bought a second heater, one to put where the Smiths is put.  The
>one I've got now, I'll put in the back.
>	So, will there be enough coolant flow for these?  I don't want to
>burn out the pump (which BTW, was rebuilt in the spring).

I've run a second heater behind the seats for years. Ran teh hoses 
through the trans. tunnel and hooked it up in series with teh original. 
Never had any trouble. At low revs there is not enough flow to keep both 
heaters hot, but above 2000rpm or so it is no problem. You cannot 
"overload" or "burn out" the waterpump, it flow a certain amount of 
coolant dependent on rpm independent of load. All that will happen if 
the first heater is too big is the coolant will be cold by the time it 
gets to the second heater. 

>	Which direction does the coolant flow, out of the front or the back
>of the head?

I believe it flows out the back, although I'll have to check next time 
I'm outside. 

>	Do I need to keep the level of the heaters at or below the head
>height?  I want to mount the second heater on the roofside in back, 
which
>would make it higher than the head.  Therefore the pump would need to 
push
>coolant above it's own height.

Not sure about this. My second heater is right about head height, but 
below the coolant tank on the radiator. My feeling is that the water 
pump would have no trouble pumping the relatively small amount of 
coolant used by the heater that high, but you might run into 
unpleasantness when filling the system, i.e. you will have a huge air 
pocket in teh second heater as it is above the radiator header. Even if 
you then ran the engine to fill the pocket, next time you removed the 
rad cap it would all drain out. I'll have to think about this, but I'd 
advise you to keep the highest point of the heating system below the 
radiator header tank. 

>	Might I get a cooling problem?  I have the RN high temp thermo to
>put in, and a radiator muff.

High temp thermo and rad muff will probably help even more than the 
second heater. There should be no cooling problems, the only difference 
it will make is that it might take the engine a bit longer to warm up if 
you're running the heaters. 

>	The heaters add to 35, 000 BTUs.  I wonder how many BTUs past
>engine operating temp, the 2.25 puts out?  Anybody figure out the BTUs 
of a
>2.25 petrol?  Sounds like a problem I might have been able to figure 5
>years ago in PChem, but that was then, barely...

Actually, this is a very complex problem for which you need thermo and 
hat transfer to get even a rough answer. The short version is that it is 
100% meaningless to rate a heater in BTUs since a BTU is a unit of 
energy and a heater's output is based on power, or energy per time. A 
candle could put out 35000 BTUs if it burned long enough. Similarly, a 
nuclear bomb puts out 35000 BTUs in some minute fraction of a second. 
The rating would have to be in BTUs per some length of time to mean 
anything. Perhaps there is some convention for this that I don't know 
about. In addition, the output of a heater is also dependant on the rate 
of the coolant flow through it and teh temperature of the coolant. 
Again, perhaps there is some convention for this, such as 190 degrees at 
max. rpm. Unless they are taken at exactly the same temperature and 
flow, comparing heater outputs is useless and best left to the 
advertising people who make up these ratings. Sorry for teh diatribe, 
but these things annoy me. 

To answer your question, though, the engine probably has enough heat 
output at anything off idle to run 10 heaters. The limiting factor is 
the small amount of flow through the heating system. My experience tells 
me that with the Kodiak up front and a good size aftermarket heater in 
the back, the system will just about keep up at cruising speed. At idle 
I get cold air from the front heater. It would be in interesting project 
to re-plumb teh cooling system to add more heating capacity, but two 
heaters make the interior pretty damn toasty. 

Cheers, and if you want to look at my setup, let me know.

Braman
IIA 88" 

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 00:13:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

Disagree John..........You can pipe them in parallel so that they both " see" 
the
same entering water temperature provided you connect them in what is known as a
reverse return configuration. I will try to describe it.
Draw a horizontal line on the left hand side of a piece of paper, this is the 
flow
direction. Continue the line to the right and show a tee connection to the first
heater coil pointing down.Continue the horizontal line to the right and turn 
this
down to the second coil ( show two boxes for the coils). From the bottom of the 
box
that is the first coil show a connection which represents the return water 
leaving
that coil and draw that line to the right passing by the second coil box and 
show a
tee connection with the branch pointing up to the coil and with the horizontal 
line
continuing past the box.Now draw this return line pulling a U turn and draw it
straight back to the left hand side of the page were it now connects to the 
return
to the engine. The logic in this configuration is that the first coil has the
shortest supply connection and the longest return but the second coil has the
longest supply connection but the shortest return and provides a measure of self
balancing of the piping resistance.The tee connections balance themselves out.
If your coil has a thick multi row coil with offset connections then make sure 
you
connect them as follows.......Air on to the coil.....water off the coil
...........In other words the coldest air is "seeing" the coolest water. ....Air
off the coil...water on the coil. If the coil has a tank at either end then it
makes no difference.
The engine flow is from the front to the back.Do NOT under any circumstances use
anything other than the double acting skirted thermostat. Thats another 
story.Gotta
go, Brett Storey just hurtled up the drive in his 88 with NO canvas top on. Has
nobody told this nutter that winter has arrived in the great white north it 
must be
about 28.F. out there. Boy that must have turned a few heads blasting down the 
401
highway.

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From: John <john@roverstuff.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 10:15:20 -0800
Subject: 101 FC email list info...

Hi Folks,

For you 101 Forward Control fans, point the browser at

http://www.onelist.com/subscribe.cgi/101

and follow the directions.

John

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 13:33:08 EST
Subject: Re: dumb question

In a message dated 11/21/98 7:06:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tondick@hotmail.com writes:

<< Fuel mixture adjustment for a Rochester carb...  >>
Any carburettor has seperate mixture adjustments for as many various circuits
as it operates.  The mixture for the Rochester (running, main jet) is varied
by replacing the jet (orifice) in the bottom of the float bowl.  Alternately,
the jet can be reamed to a larger size or soldered closed and drilled to
accomplish a smaller size.  The jet size is measured in thousandths of an
inch.  The Idle circuit only comes into play in this carburetor when the
throttle butterfly is closed almost completely.  The orifice which meters
gasoline for this circuit is a cone shaped needle which is driven into or away
from a orifice by screw adjustment. Screwing the needle in whill close the
orifice while screwing it out will enlarge the orifice.  Screwing it in
tightly will dent the cone and orifice, making adjustment inaccurate and
problematic.  

Any other questions?

Zack Arbios

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:29:13 +1100
Subject: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

Nate wrote:
>With the standard Smiths oil pressure gauge, does one use the
>10 volt voltage stabilizer to energize it?  If so, can one run a
third
>line from the original one (fuel gauge and temp gauge) or is a
>second stabilizer needed?

Assuming you have an electric oil pressure gauge and not one with a
capilliary tube, just run a wire from the origonal voltage stabiliser

Ron

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:32:11 +1100
Subject: spring bushings 

Hi Guys,

I haven't been following the thread on spring bushings too closely as
I own a coiler (one day I'll convince Elisabeth that we really need a
Series).

John Cranfield wrote:
> If the pins and bush sleeves were intended to move there
>would be provision for  lubrication.

But, I wonder... I've noticed that a number of manufacturers done here
(Oz) sell greasable shackles for most 4WD (dunno about Landies).  Are
such things useful (or feasible) for Series Rovers?

Ron

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 00:47:39 -0800
Subject: Trivial solution - capillary drain

If you carry a spare on the bonnet, you may have experienced the rusty
swill that accumulates in the rim.  The original spare on my truck was
soooo rusty, I couldn't mount a new tire on it.  

A 15" length of cotton rope, placed so that 4-6 inches lie in the
forwardmost (lowest) point of the rim, and lead to and through a lugnut
hole and down to the bonnet, will drain a rim-full of rainwater in several
hours (as soon as it stops raining or you park under cover).  Capillary
action will pull the water up the rope, wetting the entire length, and
gravity will then siphon all the water out of the rim.

I haven't experimented with any methodology to secure the rope - it seems
to stay in place just fine.  Some stout waterproof tape or strategic knots
would serve to keep the rope from jumping about, I guess.

YMMV  - try different kinds of rope 

Todd
71 88" IIA "Fantod"

Todd Schlemmer
Vashon Is., WA

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 21:57:02 +0100
Subject: Re: hotplugs

>I've thought about replacing the hotplugs in my cylinder head (I have to
>remove it to install new intake valvs, guides for all, and hotplugs - if
>they're bad), but I've heard two horror stories too many! Maybe I'll replace
>them ONLY if they're bad (they can cause the diesel to blow oil like crazy if
>the pegs inside them are broken off - instant smoke screen!)
>My diesel is blowing oil, and the pistons/rings/bores looked great last 
>time I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>had the head off (replaced the valve stem seals, which didn't do anything for
>it), so off it comes again, for more new parts.

Well, my engine is running fine after replacing the hotplugs..... 
still... ;-)

Also replaced the valvestemseals, I don't think they should have been 
replaced, but I had some and the head was on my bench, so...

Good Luck (if you're not already started or finished, or else good luck 
with driving with new hotspots)

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 18:44:50 -0400
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

"d.h.lowe" wrote:

> Disagree John..........You can pipe them in parallel so that they both " see" 
the
> same entering water temperature provided you connect them in what is known as 
a
> reverse return configuration. I will try to describe it.
> Draw a horizontal line on the left hand side of a piece of paper, this is the 
flow
> direction. Continue the line to the right and show a tee connection to the 
first
> heater coil pointing down.Continue the horizontal line to the right and turn 
this
> down to the second coil ( show two boxes for the coils). From the bottom of 
the box
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
> about 28.F. out there. Boy that must have turned a few heads blasting down 
the 401
> highway.

What you say is of course accurate, but messy, soooo much simpler to run in 
series.
 So what is the story behind your insistance on the skirted thermostat. I 
haven't used
one in years and would like to know what ungodly sins I might have committed in 
my
innosence.
  John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 18:56:46 -0400
Subject: Re: BMW X5

Vel Natarajan wrote:

> It's not an SUV but an "SAV - Sports Activity Vehicle".
> Um yeah, whatever...

Well you do have to wonder at the "utility" in SUV

John and Muddy

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 15:12:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Rochester Carb???

Hello,
        I pulled the top of my Rochester Carb today to replace the main seal
that had been leaking.  After replacing the seal I checked the float level
as per the directions (1 and 9/32) and reassembled the unit.  The 2.25
started fine but I noticed it was running a little rough.  After adjusting
the mixutre I went for a drive and found the car would lurch terribly under
load and if I reved the motor it backfired after letting off the gas.  I
pulled the top off again this afternoon and checked the float level and
there appeared to be no problem  It's the first time I've played with the
carb, is there something I am missing?  The manual that came with a rebuild
kit I have in my spares pack indicates there is nothing wrong with the way
I've assembled the float setup?  Any hints would be helpful.... Thanks.

                                                Henry Stinson
                                                '73 SWB SHED

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From: Lloyd Perrin <Lloyd_Perrin@jdedwards.com.au>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:06:28 +1000
Subject: 96 Discovery - Instrument Cluster Lighting

A small problem, but now it's become very frustrating.

Task: To replace the switch globe on the (dash) Recirc button.

Problem: How do you remove the globe from these buttons ?  Black facing
cap comes off easily enough. But I can't find an "easy" way to get to
the globe.  Any suggestions ?

Cheers

Lloyd Perrin

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 20:00:53 EST
Subject: Re: Rochester Carb???

In a message dated 11/22/98 3:14:03 PM Pacific Standard Time, hstin@cts.com
writes:

<< It's the first time I've played with the
 carb, is there something I am missing? >>
Take a look inside the float bowl for sme miniscule crap floating about.
Can happen, and it's not too hard to look.

Zack, gotta love the Rochester, Arbios

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From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 20:06:03 EST
Subject:  Steering Relay Rebuild?

Has anyone rebuilt the steering relay on a series IIa replacing the split
washers and spring. One fellow talked about doing it in place.

Dave Walls
IIa 88
(offroad everyday)

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From: WORKMEISTR@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 20:32:07 EST
Subject: .

subscribe lro

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From: Solihull@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 20:32:39 EST
Subject: what the goo does, was speed and stuff....

Neil sez:It is an ex-MOD vehicle and the underside is coated in a thick black
goo, is this some form of protectant? i.e will I need to waxoyl it as well?

Depends on where you got it. The goo might be there to hold the rust on.
Hmmmmmm.

Cheers!!
John Dillingham
near Canton, GA
KF4NAS
LROA #1095
SoLaRoS #23
73 s3 swb 25902676b DD "Pansy"
72 s3 swb 25900502a rusted, in suspended animation
Looking for a P5 project, well, OK, or a P6 or another SD1
(770)345-3516 

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:06:54 +1000
Subject: Re: The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

My basic system is only a slight addition to yours . . .  I put an air line
between the front tyre valve and the cap so that I have a constant (almost)
air reservoir of about 40psi

Like you say - must keep an eye on the fluid level in the reservoir as it
will blead out quite quickly if you're not careful

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:11:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Vacuum brake bleeder (SnapON)
Re: Pressurized system bleeder:
Tell you what I did - cheap, simple and effective, though I can't take
credit
for the idea.....
Take an old reservoir cap and drill a hole in the top to take a tubeless
tyre
valve. Slather the gap and lip on the tubeless tyre valve with sealer and
set it
into the hole in the aforementioned cap. Take your tyre valve tool and
remove
the valve from the center of the tyre valve.
Now, when you need to bleed your braking system screw this cap onto a full
reservoir - fill it right to the top.
Now, use a locking chuck, or a hand pump with a screw-on valve end, or
anything
the likes and put a few PSI on the aforementioned tyre valve. Presto,
instant
pressure bleeding system for cheap.
Works for me - and I've bled completely dry systems, CB 109 masters, front
109
brake systems and all sorts of nasty setups with it.
Total cost is $1.99 for a pack of two valves, and another $1.99 for a tyre
valve
tool if you don't have one (and you should...).
               aj"Cheap git - that i am!"r

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 08:33:52 +1000
Subject: Re: spring bushings

so we've had lots of ranting, raving and chest banging,
a number of people saying look in the book
a little intelligent analysis
some good personal experience
and one response that suggested torqueing to 90flbs

but the original question was what torque?

was the 90flbs the torque on the (locking) nut - I suspect so

what does the 'magic'  book actually say (not what do you interpret it to
mean)

lets stop the insults to people who don't agree with what we say and get
back to the question

If there's one thing I've learned with Landys over the years its that there
are often more than one way to tackle most problems, some are better than
others, but few are as disaterous as some of the replys to this qustion
would seem to imply!

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 22:23:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Steering Relay Rebuild?

On Sun, 22 Nov 1998 DHW4U@aol.com wrote:

:Has anyone rebuilt the steering relay on a series IIa replacing the split
:washers and spring. One fellow talked about doing it in place.

Al Richer wrote an article about doing this in place.  Should be in the
FAQ, http://www.fourfold.org/LR_FAQ .

David

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 22:34:05 EST
Subject: Re: not nice

In a message dated 98-11-20 13:20:31 EST, you write:

 for possession of a firearm!
 
 >>
Hmmmm. Interesting, a french fried firearm story.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:03:45 EST
Subject: Re: charge warning light

In a message dated 98-11-20 14:33:57 EST, you write:

<<  It
 gets power from the normal supply and, then, I'm guessing, the alternator
 acts as a ground until it starts spinning. Right so far?  >>

Wrong so far! The charge lamp is not actually wired to any ground. it is wired
to the alternator and to a  point in the electrical system which is
theoretically at the same potential. When the alternator is operating properly
there is no voltage difference so the lamp is off. When the alternator  fails
the current flows back from the battery thus lighting the lamp. That is why
the lamp can be bright or dim or flicker for different symptoms.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:12:57 EST
Subject: Re: Installing my ujs - tips?

In a message dated 98-11-20 15:39:22 EST, you write:

<< I have beaten them out with the sockets and a sledgehammer before for
 very stubborn ones, but be sure not to hit the yoke.
 
 >>
Actually if you use a rawhide hammer you can beat on the outside of the yoke
and use the inertia of the cap to pull it out. A little more work but elegant
for the pysicist in the crowd.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 21:11:25 -0800
Subject: Re: charge warning light

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 98-11-20 14:33:57 EST, you write:
> <<  It
>  gets power from the normal supply and, then, I'm guessing, the alternator
>  acts as a ground until it starts spinning. Right so far?  >>

=> 
=> Wrong so far! The charge lamp is not actually wired to any ground. it
is wired
=> to the alternator and to a  point in the electrical system which is
=> theoretically at the same potential. 
 I think he is saying "acts like a ground" and you are interpreting as
"is a ground". Yes it acts like a ground if it isn't producing voltage
or if the voltage is very low compared to the battery.
Jim Hall

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 21:15:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing my ujs - tips?

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
= 
= In a message dated 98-11-20 15:39:22 EST, you write:
= 
= << I have beaten them out with the sockets and a sledgehammer before
for
  very stubborn ones, but be sure not to hit the yoke.>> 
= Actually if you use a rawhide hammer you can beat on the outside of
the yoke
= and use the inertia of the cap to pull it out. A little more work but
elegant
= for the pysicist in the crowd.

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 21:22:10 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing my ujs - tips?

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
 =
 = In a message dated 98-11-20 15:39:22 EST, you write:
 =
 = << I have beaten them out with the sockets and a sledgehammer before
   for very stubborn ones, but be sure not to hit the yoke.>>
 = Actually if you use a rawhide hammer you can beat on the outside of
the yoke
 = and use the inertia of the cap to pull it out. A little more work but
elegant
 = for the pysicist in the crowd.
I was going to say that luckily Land Rover never injected plastic to
hold the caps in place like  Ch**y did. Although I don't know for sure,
I don't think a rawhide hammer would have had any effect on them. That's
why I loke Rovers, soooo much simpler to work on. Give me clips any day!

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:39:42 EST
Subject: Re: bushings

In a message dated 98-11-20 20:35:22 EST, you write:

 There is nothing about torque settings etc.
 
 Jim Wolf
  >>
The SIII manual gives a fairly complex procedure to follow to find the neutral
position. and then says to tighten the shackle bolts and nuts to 60 -70 lbf-
ft. If the shackle bolts are not to be tightened against the central bushing
tubes they cannot stress the bushings so this whole procedure is meaningless.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 23:46:37 EST
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

In a message dated 98-11-20 21:13:21 EST, you write:

 With the standard Smiths oil pressure gauge, does one use the 10 volt voltage
 stabilizer to energize it?  If so, can one run a third line from the original
 one (fuel gauge and temp gauge) >>

Yes and yes.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 12:16:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

Hi  John.       Brett and Larry just left my place. We put their hardtops on 
for the
winter this afternoon. It was Brett`s last fling ,that`s why he was running 
topless this
morning..Now about those thermostats. The Series III and earlier thermostat 
housings have
an oval opening in the side which leads to the bypass hose. The purpose of this 
is to
prevent the pump from "dead heading" or churning when the thermostat is closed. 
In other
words when the thermostat is closed to the radiator there would be no flow and 
therefore
no circulation through the engine which would be most unhealthy.To prevent this 
happening
the oval opening allows water to by-pass the rad. and circulate water through 
the engine
alone.So, we have a pump that circulates water continually through the engine 
regardless
of the thermostat position.When the engine is cold all the flow goes through 
the by-pass
opening and through the engine because the skirt is raised. As the temperature 
rises the
thermostat begins to open to the rad but as it does so the skirt descends and
proportionately closes off the by-pass opening until the flow is solely to the 
radiator.If
you use the "flat" single acting thermostat the by-pass opening remains open 
continously
regardless of engine temperature.The pump of course will pump the same amount 
but the flow
will take the line of least resistance which is through the by-pass rather than 
the long
way around through the radiator, and under high ambient conditions will cause 
the engine
to run hotter than it should. The temp. sender of course is at the front of the 
engine and
does not give you the temp. at the no.4 end of the block.You will therefore 
have a
condition where the temperature on the gauge is reading a bit on the high side 
but the
temperature at the back is significantly higher. I consider this to be one of 
the causes
of the manifold cracking and I`ve cracked a few before I found out about the 
operation of
the double acting `stat.  I used to use the flat type because I could get them 
for
195.F.     . On engines from the 110 onwards the thermostat housing was changed 
and a flat
single acting `stat is standard.  Instead of the large oval opening it has a 
hole about
3/8" in diameter instead.This is calculated to provide sufficient flow when the 
`stat is
closed but has a higher resistance than the radiator circuit, consequently the 
line of
least resistance when the `stat is open is through the rad. not the by-pass.

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From: "Ed Meyer" <emeyer@bowdoin.edu>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 00:27:25 -0500
Subject: Overdrive

I am a NEW 1973 series III owner (i.e My 1st rover). The fairly overdrive on
this rover screams so loud that it causes actual pain in my ears (making it
useless). Is this normal for overdrives. I have heard they are loud, but
this one is unbearable. If it is so loud, dose anyone have an idea has to
why?

E Meyer

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 12:35:16 -0500
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

Hi  John.       Brett and Larry just left my place. We put their
hardtops on for the
winter this afternoon. It was Brett`s last fling ,that`s why he was
running topless this
morning..Now about those thermostats. The Series III and earlier
thermostat housings have
an oval opening in the side which leads to the bypass hose. The purpose
of this is to
prevent the pump from "dead heading" or churning when the thermostat is
closed. In other
words when the thermostat is closed to the radiator there would be no
flow and therefore
no circulation through the engine which would be most unhealthy.To
prevent this happening
the oval opening allows water to by-pass the rad. and circulate water
through the engine
alone.So, we have a pump that circulates water continually through the
engine regardless
of the thermostat position.When the engine is cold all the flow goes
through the by-pass
opening and through the engine because the skirt is raised. As the
temperature rises the
thermostat begins to open to the rad but as it does so the skirt
descends and
proportionately closes off the by-pass opening until the flow is solely
to the radiator.If
you use the "flat" single acting thermostat the by-pass opening remains
open continously
regardless of engine temperature.The pump of course will pump the same
amount but the flow
will take the line of least resistance which is through the by-pass
rather than the long
way around through the radiator, and under high ambient conditions will
cause the engine
to run hotter than it should. The temp. sender of course is at the front
of the engine and
does not give you the temp. at the no.4 end of the block.You will
therefore have a
condition where the temperature on the gauge is reading a bit on the
high side but the
temperature at the back is significantly higher. I consider this to be
one of the causes
of the manifold cracking and I`ve cracked a few before I found out about
the operation of
the double acting `stat.  I used to use the flat type because I could
get them for
195.F.     . On engines from the 110 onwards the thermostat housing was
changed and a flat
single acting `stat is standard.  Instead of the large oval opening it
has a hole about
3/8" in diameter instead.This is calculated to provide sufficient flow
when the `stat is
closed but has a higher resistance than the radiator circuit,
consequently the line of
least resistance when the `stat is open is through the rad. not the
by-pass.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 00:45:07 EST
Subject: Re: Sparkin' Plug Questions

In a message dated 98-11-21 15:23:33 EST, you write:

<<   Which one of
 these burns hotter?  Should that one be in the low or high head?  Why?
 
 >>
The heat range of the plug is a measure of how much heat it retains during the
operational cycles of the engine. A hotter plug will stay hotter (of course)
and this allows it to burn off some of the contaminants which may be present
in the cylinder thus avoiding being fouled the down side is that the higher
temperature may cause preignition. A cooler plug may foul more easily but is
not as likely to cause preignition. My son's SIII was running poorly and I
could not get it to stop pinging and after-running. I retarded the timing and
that stopped the ping but also made it much slower. When I pulled the plugs I
found they were RN14Ys. (could this qualify as a SPOT?) I replaced them with
RN12Ys, reset the timing and that completely transformed the performance of
the truck.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 01:05:34 EST
Subject: Re: Coolant Flow & Heat

In a message dated 98-11-21 15:36:36 EST, you write:

<< So, will there be enough coolant flow for these?  I don't want to
 burn out the pump (which BTW, was rebuilt in the spring).
 	Which direction does the coolant flow, out of the front or the back
 of the head?
 	Do I need to keep the level of the heaters at or below the head
 height?  I want to mount the second heater on the roofside in back, which
 would make it higher than the head.  Therefore the pump would need to push
 coolant above it's own height >>

The amount of coolant will be whatever it takes to fill the system including
whatever you add on. If you place a heater core higher than the radiator you
will need to make that your fill point and be sure all of the iar comes out.
It should make no difference to the pump since it only recirculates the
coolant and the siphon action of the coolant returning will obviate the
increased head pressure. The main problem is that if you remove the radiator
cap the system will try to drain down to the level of the radiator. It may be
tough to get enough coolant to flow through the existing piping to provide an
appreciable heating effect. I have toyed with the idea of pulling a larger
supply hose off the main return hose to the radiator. Fortunately the weather
down here isn't cold enough to force me into such extreme action...yet.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 01:23:52 EST
Subject: Re: HELP NEEDED... It's getting dark !

In a message dated 98-11-21 17:23:51 EST, you write:

 Well, Marc, sounds like you blew the switch. Same thing happened in my old
 SAAB. Was backpacking at the time and had to drive out 15 miles down a
 windy mountain road holding the high beam lever with my left hand. Corners
 were scary when I had to let go in order to shift and steer at the same
 time! Symtoms sound identical, though, pull it out and give it a look.
 
 -joseph and sidney
 missoula, mt
 
 >>
Marc, When you say you tapped in to one of your high beams Are you talking
about the main power (large red wire) or the relay control (small yellow
wire)? If you are pulling all of the power for the lights off of your high
beam circuit that would explain your switch failure. If you are only running
the relay never mind.
When you figure it out I need to know what you discovered as I am installing
the same kit in my SIII.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 01:50:42 EST
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

In a message dated 98-11-22 14:20:27 EST, you write:

 Nate wrote:
 >With the standard Smiths oil pressure gauge, does one use the
 >10 volt voltage stabilizer to energize it?  If so, can one run a
 third
 >line from the original one (fuel gauge and temp gauge) or is a
 >second stabilizer needed?
 Assuming you have an electric oil pressure gauge and not one with a
 capilliary tube, just run a wire from the origonal voltage stabiliser
 
 Ron
  >>

If this is a new installation remember you need to hook it up to a modulating
oil pressure sending unit. The SPO of my SIII hooked the guage to the on/off
bug light switch on the earlier engine he used for a transplant. Result:
Crispy oil pressure guage. I gave up trying to find a good used sending unit
(new ones are very expensive) and resorted to a mechanical guage. Very happy.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:50:58 +0000
Subject: Re: not nice

>for possession of a firearm!

Good stuff,Marston's is'nt it Frank??????

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:53:54 +0100
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

>a modulating oil pressure sending unit

eh, where can I find a hole to fit it?

2.25 diesel, by the way (on the way, mostly)

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 SIII 88" 2.25 diesel       1968  109"  SIIa 2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 06:27:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

Yes, you can run a third line to run the gauge - there's sufficient capacity,
and the gauges use little current.

               ajr

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 06:44:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Bullet Connector Crimping Tool

Re: Connector crimper:

Don't crimp, solder. it's easier, and you can remove the bullet if necessary to
repair things.

                    ajr

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 06:51:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Relay Rebuild?

Dan,

I did a write-up on doing this exact thing lat year - take a look at

http://www.off-road.com/OVLR/

and look for my stuff under the users' Web page area.

                    ajr

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