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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 07:16:54 EST
Subject: Re: Smiths Oil Pressure gauge question

In a message dated 11/20/98 9:46:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pmk11@cornell.edu writes:

The sender in my case has an electrical lug and that is all...ergo electrical
in nature (no oil line).

Nate

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From: Robert McCullough <dieselbob@erols.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 07:19:40 -0500
Subject: spring bushings

what sandy says about the tightness of the bolts may be applicable to his
petrol land rover due to vibration, but my diesel engine in SUZY runs so
smooth that i can balance a coin on her. ENOUGH ALREADY!!!!!!

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From: Dale Smith <smithdv1@yahoo.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 06:02:26 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: not nice

Having a slow Friday are we Frank?...:-)
Smitty
---Frank Elson <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk> wrote:
 Something that happened to a friend of mine last night.
  He was on his way to see his girlfriend and stopped to gas up (put =
 petrol in) his Land Rover. As he levered the pump petrol shot out all
up =
 his arm.
  H e went in and they agreed that the pump had malfunctioned and
offered =
 him a free tank of petrol (gas). He refused and said he'd sue.
 So then he drove off and unthinkingly lit a cigarette, whereupon his
arm =
 set on fire.
  He waved it out of the window which didn;t help as the extra oxygen
fed =
 the flame.
 So then the cops pulled him - and arrested him.
 for possession of a firearm!
 Best Cheers
 Frank

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From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 21:03:51 +0700
Subject: Spring Bushes

You might consider bringing your LR here to Thailand to have the bushes
changed, parts and labor will run about US 60.00. After you cross the
Bering Sea hang a left, then go straight about...  :)

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From: "Braman Wing" <bcw6@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 08:38:48 PST
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding

I haven't followed this thread from the beginning, so apologies if this 
has already come up. 

I have had excellent luck with the brakes on my 88" with a $5 "one man 
bleeder" from an auto parts store. The device consists of a hose that 
runs from the bleeder to the bottom of a plastic bottle, which has a 
magnetic attachment which you can stick on the frame. The idea is to 
keep the fluid level in the bottle higher than the bleeder screw, so 
that by siphoning, the fluid exerts a slight back pressure on the 
bleeder. This way, any leakage past the threads is fluid going out 
rather than air coming in. I simply open the bleeder and pump the 
brakes. I had unsuccessfully tried vacuum bleeding and traditional 
two-person open and close bleeding, but my new system seems to work 
every time. Not sure how it would work with the more difficult 109" 
brakes. 

Really, this method is the same as bleeding the brakes by putting a hose 
in a bottle and opening and closing the bleeder while someone else pumps 
the valve. The only difference is you keep the level of the fluid above 
the bleeder. Hope this helps,

Braman
1966 IIA 88"

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From: kiotee@mcn.net (Roy Caldwell)
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 11:02:02 -1000
Subject: Rover Interest

Joseph,  Go look up a Clay L. Morrison on campus.  He repsonded to an add
for Rover for sale that Kern posted.  He is at clay@selway.umt.edu.  Later

Roy

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 14:19:37 -0500
Subject: Re: not nice (Frank`s sense of humour?)

<< So then the cops pulled him - and arrested him.

for possession of a firearm! >>

   GROAN !!!!
   
 Paul

 Sat, 21 Nov 1998 19:21

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 14:19:40 -0500
Subject: Re: Friday drivel...

<<  or, gag, M***ca L***nski >>

 She probably did....

 Paul

 Sat, 21 Nov 1998 19:23

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

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From: "Neil Brownlee" <metal_thrasher@msn.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 19:47:36 -0000
Subject: speed and stuff....

Hi guys,

I have a leaky hub on the 109"...it is just coming out from one nut...should
I suspect breathers, or simply replace the gasket and hope that is all...it
is dark cold and wet most nights here...so the simpler/quicker the better!

Also, what oil SHOULD I put in the gearbox..and pardon my ignorance, WHERE
should I put it?! I've only had automatic vehicles prior to this, and as
you'll know, they are a bit easier to top up (at least fords are!).

Thanks in advance...

Neil

P.S. It is an ex-MOD vehicle and the underside is coated in a thick black
goo, is this some form of protectant? i.e will I need to waxoyl it as well?

thanks!

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 15:18:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: speed and stuff....

>I have a leaky hub on the 109"...it is just coming out from one nut...should
>I suspect breathers, or simply replace the gasket and hope that is all...it
>is dark cold and wet most nights here...so the simpler/quicker the better!
Probably the oil seals.  If it is in your drums, that is the inner one.
The outer one is easy, the inner one is easier your second time around, but
maybe an afternoon project.

Know what you mean about the weather...  It is yuccky up here in Ithaca
this time of the  year.  I should really be out giving my landie a check
over, putting in the heater, and putting on the new roof, before it gets
worse - but I'm inside...  as you probably guessed.

>Also, what oil SHOULD I put in the gearbox...
90wt gear oil - buy it by the gallon!!

>and pardon my ignorance, WHERE should I put it?!
Err, um... boy, you really are ignorant   ;  )
Apologies - I couldn't resist!
There is one square nut on the left side (from the top, facing forward) of
the gearbox, and one square nut on the back of the tranny.  Don't forget
you axels and swivel balls - and your overdrive, if you've got one.

> It is an ex-MOD vehicle and the underside is coated in a thick black
>goo, is this some form of protectant? i.e will I need to waxoyl it as well?

Probably is some sort of protectant.  My Ex-MoD had it too, but it has
dried up in most places.  When that happens, get it off there and put new
stuff on.  Mixtures of paraffin and mineral spirits can be made cheaply.

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 15:22:24 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Sparkin' Plug Questions

Hi There -
	Has anybody noticed any difference in teh plugs specified for a
high vs. low compression head?  I have RN12YC Champions in there now.  Fine
as far as I can tell.  I bought the ones for the IIa today RN9YC champions.
I assume I've got a low head, but haven't really checked yet.  Which one of
these burns hotter?  Should that one be in the low or high head?  Why?

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 15:35:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Coolant Flow & Heat

Hi All -
	I bought a second heater, one to put where the Smiths is put.  The
one I've got now, I'll put in the back.
	So, will there be enough coolant flow for these?  I don't want to
burn out the pump (which BTW, was rebuilt in the spring).
	Which direction does the coolant flow, out of the front or the back
of the head?
	Do I need to keep the level of the heaters at or below the head
height?  I want to mount the second heater on the roofside in back, which
would make it higher than the head.  Therefore the pump would need to push
coolant above it's own height.
	Might I get a cooling problem?  I have the RN high temp thermo to
put in, and a radiator muff.
	The heaters add to 35, 000 BTUs.  I wonder how many BTUs past
engine operating temp, the 2.25 puts out?  Anybody figure out the BTUs of a
2.25 petrol?  Sounds like a problem I might have been able to figure 5
years ago in PChem, but that was then, barely...

Cheers - Peter
(trying to stay warm up here in Ithaca!)

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 10:41:41 -1000
Subject: Re: speed and stuff....and bulkhead update.

>Know what you mean about the weather...  It is yuccky up here in Ithaca
>this time of the  year

I agree about the weather.  It seems like it has rained non stop for the
past two weeks.  Luckily I have the garage to work on the Landie in
(content).  But I find that it has become neccesary to put on a shirt as
with the wind chill it has only been about 78f degrees during the time.
I finally got the bulkhead (more content hehe)all taken down.  After placing
in the jig, things progressed smoothly.  Took about 3 hours to drill out all
the spot welds.  Have hamer&dolly 'ed them back straight.  Also took the
twist out of the bulkhead frame.  Went ahead and test fit everything back
together using some sheet metal screws.  Looks pretty good.  Gonna try and
get all the sheet metal panels over to the auto hobby shop this week so I
can bead blast them.  Because of cost I have decided not to galvenize them.
After blasting I am going to shoot them with an etching
primer/paint/lavaliner or POR15.  Still havenot decided which.
Speaking of POR, has anyone used this stuff on the axle housings?  How did
it turn out?  How has it been lasting.
Aloha
Pete 'on the concrete island'
ps.  spotted another series on island yesterday.  That brings my count up to
10 on Oahu now.  Was a early IIa 109 pickup with an 88 tropical roof.

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From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:51:42 -0500
Subject: HELP NEEDED... It's getting dark !

Just installed Hella 55w lights and tapped into High beams wire near
left headlight.
Worked for a few minutes and stopped while I was standing up on the
hood adjusting them but now no low or high beam but if I pull on the
lever
(like to flash at uncoming car) they do go on as long as I keep it
pulled, of
course...

all fuses good, as far as I can tell. I did replace the 7.5A existing
light
fuses (top 4 right side) with 10A.

HELP...

car on,
lights on low, positions lights go on , no lights
lights on high, no position no lights
lights switch on pull flasher arm back, all high and Hella ON but engine
rev goes a little down (slightly)

Sorry for the all out posting but I'm in a big bind.

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 15:21:59 -0700
Subject: HELP NEEDED... It's getting dark !

Well, Marc, sounds like you blew the switch. Same thing happened in my old
SAAB. Was backpacking at the time and had to drive out 15 miles down a
windy mountain road holding the high beam lever with my left hand. Corners
were scary when I had to let go in order to shift and steer at the same
time! Symtoms sound identical, though, pull it out and give it a look.

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:29:20 -0500
Subject: Installing UJ's

Peter, I usually scrape all the dirt from around the cap ends, then I try to
knock one of the caps out, this usually creates a little clearance between
the circlip and the cap enabling the circlips removal, then turn over the
shaft and drive the cap about half way out  by pressing, or kinetic loading
( hammer ! ) the other cap. It is then possible to pull out the cap using a
vice. The cross shaft can then be removed, this this creates clearance for
the second cap to be knocked clear of the circlip. Do not be tempted to push
the cap straight thro, driving the cap out usually cleans up the hole for
fitting the new cap. 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:24:45 -0800
Subject: Re: HELP NEEDED... It's getting dark !

If you did blow the switch, after you replace it you should run a wire
to the battery with a fuse of course, hook this to a relay of at least a
15 amp rating, hook the other terminal to the Hellas, and then wire it
to turn on with your regular lights. 55 watts x 2 = 9 amps just by
themselves. I'm supprised the 10 amp fuse didn't blow first.
BTW, are you still sending the rollbar pics?

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

Joseph Broach wrote:
> Well, Marc, sounds like you blew the switch.

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From: Brian Cramer <defender@uscom.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 20:34:41 -0500
Subject: Parts Clearance!!

Hi All!!

A friend of mine is a LR technician. He's cleaning out his garage, and has a
ton of parts for sale. He'd like to move this stuff ASAP, so the prices are
cheap. 

Here’s the list: 

DEFENDER: GRP hardtop rear corners (new in box) $60@, drivers seat bottom
(slight tear) $35, brush bar (slight damage) $75, steering wheel (near new)
$35, LT230 t-case $395, R380 trans (needs mainshaft replaced) $250. 

DISCO: front & rear diffs (good to great) $195@, Disco center console (like
new)
$45, Disco dash (tan, like new, no peeling!) $300, sunroof glass $75@, updated
sunroof pans $60@, steering wheel $45. 

RANGE ROVER CLASSIC: cargo liner (tall ABS plastic one) $65, running boards
(grated type, need paint/powder coating) $75, Genuine brush bar (peeling, needs
paint/powder coating) $95, front & rear lamp guards (peeling, need paint/powder
coat) $49@pair, tailgate glass $75, heated windscreen $295,  steering wheel
(early) $35. 

RANGE ROVER 4.0/4.6: tires (18” Pirelli Scorpions, good condition) $85@,
radiator (2000 miles, removed for custom radiator install, like new) $275,
front diff (under 4K miles) $195, left & right outside mirror assemblies $95@,
4.0 crankshaft (like new) $125, steering column (like new) $125, steering wheel
$45. 

MISC: many used starters, alternators & A/C compressors, some good, some cores,
only $35@. Front covers (external oil pump type) $150@. Many, many other parts.
Email with your needs. 

All parts are in the Philadelphia area, and prices exclude freight.

Cheers,
Brian Cramer
Mount Laurel, New Jersey                                
'94 D90 (#1251)                                 
'90 RR County                                                             
'70 IIa Lightweight                                                        
'60 II SWB                                                              
(609)273-9708 home
(888)434-4678 office
(609)665-4451 office fax
(609)841-3586 cellular                  
ICQ #5696173                                                                   
                                                                              
                                                                             
                                                                            
                                    
                                                                        

    
                                                                               
               

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From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 20:48:42 -0500
Subject: Roll bars

I need to take the pics and will post them on my web site. thanks for the
info on the lights

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From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 22:04:11 +0000
Subject: generator light

To tag on to this problem, what about the generator?  My light comes on
and stays on, but the battery is not wearing down so it's obviously
getting recharged from somewhere.   And BTW how do you adjust the output
(which screw on the bottom) of the 2 coil voltage regulator?

Cheers, ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

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From: "Todd Ondick" <tondick@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 19:05:13 PST
Subject: dumb question

Fuel mixture adjustment for a Rochester carb... which direction do you 
turn the screw to lean the mixture out?  I told you it was dumb!

-Todd Ondick
 '65 IIA 88

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 98 19:06:53 -0800
Subject: Re: HELP NEEDED... It's getting dark !

>Just installed Hella 55w lights and tapped into High beams wire near
>left headlight.
;>Worked for a few minutes and stopped

Consider providing the Hellas with their own circuit.  You high beams 
headlamps draw a lot of current, esp if you have added a higher power 
headlamp sometime in the past.  This current goes through you light 
switch and the foot switch as well as the fuse. Adding additional lamps 
in parallel with the high beams doubles the power flow and overloads the 
circuitry.  You run the risk of overheating and damaging switches and 
possibly melting wire insulation.   You may have damaged the lighting 
switch.  New switches are still available for the positive earth LRs & I 
believe also the neg earth lighting switch. 

What you want to do is add a relay.  Have the high power go from your 
battery through the relay directly to the lamps.  Use a switch to power 
the low current input to the relay.  If you want you can get power for 
the switch & relay coil off the high beams so that the switch only works 
when the high beams is on.  The relay coils are low current devices and 
should not adversely affect your headlamp circuit.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 98 19:11:10 -0800
Subject: Re: dumb question

>Fuel mixture adjustment for a Rochester carb... which direction do you 
>turn the screw to lean the mixture out?  I told you it was dumb!

Clockwise.
You screw the needle in.  Screw the needle all the way in then out 1-1/2 
turns.  This is generally balpark for ths carb in this installation.  You 
do not want to screw the needle in tighly.  It will grove the brass 
valve.  Tighten if with you fingers if you can.

Remember that this only affects the idle circuit.  

Good luck.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Todd Ondick" <tondick@hotmail.com>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 19:21:15 PST
Subject: Half-shaft blues

Howdy everyone...

I've just gone through the front end of my IIA and had a bit of a 
problem with the short-side half-shaft.  Upon fixing new locking hubs 
(ones that actually lock), I notice a wierd vibration at highway speeds 
(35mph+) with the hubs locked and the t-case in 2wd.  Apart comes the 
front end, only the half-shaft is stuck.  a few quck pulls with a hammer 
attached via webbing solved that.  The splines are not  twisted or 
terribly worn with no metal in the oil, either.  what is up?
-if the case is bent (odd for the short side) would it stick like this?
-how about diff or carrier problems?
if anyone has run across this sort of problem or has any ideas, please 
let me know.  thanks.

-Todd "Too bad I don't get paid for working on this thing, 'cause I'd be 
rich a rich man" Ondick
 '65 IIA 88

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 23:41:53 -0000
Subject: Re: not nice

well, what happened was

my son Neil came 'round with his Ser3 and told me the joke with a straight
face.....
he was cursing and swearing at the new seat belt we were fitting when I felt
an urgent need to go and repeat his joke.....

Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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