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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:59:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:

> << The Delco alternators have an internal
>  regulator right?
>  The above article mentions shorting out the stock LR regulator, couldn't
>  this just be bypassed all together? >>
> Delco alternators used from 1973 and up have internal regulators. With kind of
> availability it isn't worth using an older on fussing with a regulator and the

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> availability it isn't worth using an older on fussing with a regulator and the
> extra wiring.

 John and Muddy

> << The Delco alternators have an internal

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:06:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

John - try it again - tha auto-digester got you.....

                    ajr

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From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:10:21 +0000
Subject: Voltage regulator adjustments

Does anyone have a good description of how to adjust the voltage
regulator from a '55 ?  It's the one with the 3 coils, not 2.  You can
adjust the output level as well as the cutoff point with the screws
underneath, but I'm not sure which does what.....

Any ideas?

Cheers, Ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

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From: Ian Harper/Donna-Claire McLeod <tantramar@golden.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:13:49 +0000
Subject: LR Transport

Anyone know of a good (cheap ) trucking firm that could get a LR from
Sackville NB to Stratford Ontario?  It could also be towed on an A frame
if anyone was passing that way in the next few months....for a
reasonable fee of course.   I've never shipped a vehicle before, so
don't know where to start.

Cheers, Ian
-- 
Ian Harper/Donna Claire McLeod
http://www.golden.net/~tantramar
Tantramar House Bed and Breakfast
Stratford, Ontario
Phone(519) 273-7771  Fax (519) 273-3993

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From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:11:36 -0500
Subject: Re: Ode to High Lift

>Good weekend was had by all, even if the clay was so slick by Sat. afternoon
>that the slightest incline was a challenge.  Aside:  Did you know that about
>15 guys pulling on a tow strap will get an 88" up a super-steep hill way
>faster than a winch?
>Bill Rice
>Columbus GA

Bill's right - dispite the fact that over three inches of rain fell that
weekend a good time was had by all.  My truck was the last one winched up
the hill before the group decided to try the tug-of-war technique Bill
described.  It did indeed work for the 88 and for the Range Rover that
followed.  A few of the ladies in the group asked each other "Why?", and
concluded "it's a tostesterone thing..."  The trail ride was followed by a
catered barbeque dinner and a raffle.  Many thanks to the sponsors who
donated items to the raffle - British Bulldog, Atlantic British, Rovers
North, Hennesey Land Rover (the local dealer), a local 4WD shop, and
possibly others.  I may have missed some, I just remember those who's
prizes I won for the $20 I invested in the raffle :)    I remember Bill won
something too, though he had some trouble remembering the numbers of the
two tickets he invested in...  
Cheers,
  erik
Erik van Dyck
'73 Series III  88"

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:12:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Voltage regulator adjustments

Re: Voltage regulator adjustment:

Take a look at the Rover manuals - there's a good procedure on how to do it,
though it's fairly tricky as it has to take into account ambinet air temperature
and a lot of other silliness...

What's it not doing properly?

                    ajr

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:15:21 -0400
Subject: Re: Still non-charging alternator.

"Bishop, Alan" wrote:

> Hi all,
> Well, been playing with the S2a again to try and get it charging.
> It's getting desperate now because it's planned to be everyday
> transport from a couple of days ago!!
> The alternator is turning out around 15-16 volts according to my
> meter, but there is no change in voltage to the battery with or
> without the alternator plugged in. Both large wires to the alternator
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> HELP!!!!!!!!
>  I am a bit puzzled. where are you getting the 15 volt reading?

What voltage are you getting on the small wire to the alternator when the
ignition is on?  If you ground this wire at the alternator does the charge
light come on?
If you have battery voltage at the alternator on the two large wires (brown)
then you should have a good circuit there.
If there is voltage at the small wire and the charge light goes on when it
is grounded then the problem is in the alternator its self assuming that the
alternator is well grounded.
John and Muddy

> Hi all,
> Well, been playing with the S2a again to try and get it charging.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:17:36 -0500
Subject: Re: LR Transport

Re: LR transport:

How far is it exactly? To be honest, it might be worth blowing a weekend and
just going to get the silly thing....

Either that, or get CAA Plus membership and tell them you broke down on the way
home....but I'd never do that....

8*)

          aj"I drive them - insane, me?"r

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:26:08 -0400
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

Lets try this again Major yer honour sir.
>From 1973 and up Delco alternators used an internal regulator. Although they 
look
the same from the out side it is easy to tell the difference. The small 
terminals
are arranged differently. Without a regulator they look like this {   l l  } but
with a regulator they  like {  _ _  } .
With availability of these regulated one it isn't worth bothering with the older
ones and the extra wiring.
 John and Muddy

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:40:00 -0500
Subject: RE: LR Transport

Within Canada, try CN or CP rail. A friend of mine in the Canadian Armed
Forces has done it several ytimes and told me it was really cheap. I'm not
certain of the actual price, I seem to remember he said it cost him 500$CND
from Montreal to Calgary. 

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:40:53 +0000
Subject: Re: Still non-charging alternator.

>  I am a bit puzzled. where are you getting the 15 volt reading?

The 15 volt reading is from the 2 larger lugs on the back of the 
alternator. The meter when connected to each (in turn) gives this 
reading. Is this not the expected output?

Please forgive the ignorance but this is the first vehicle I have 
had that I can attempt myself - the last however many have needed a 
degree in electronics just to change a fuse and I am afraid the 
Biomed degree I hold does not help much!!

Alan.

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:43:06 -0500
Subject: RE: LR Transport

This is aprox. a 20 hour drive in a car (of actual driving)... in a LR or
pulling an LR it seems to me like a long haul... (In a past life (so to say)
I lived in NB and in Ontario)   

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: Michael Hatton <michael@calibre-dd.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:36:07 -0500
Subject: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

I have just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder on my SIII, but after I
push the pedal, the piston won't return, it stays pushed in. The
cylinder looked fine, and (I believe) I was very careful about pushing
the piston seal into the cylinder.
What actually causes the piston to return? (I did not think it was the
valve spring, BWDIK)

Help - an afternoon job turned into a weekend and it looks like we're
getting our first snow tonight!

Cheers

Michael

BTW -  I have put the roof back on the Lime Green LR

--
Michael Hatton

Beaches, Toronto, Canada

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From: Doug Boehme <DBoehme@PA.Navisys.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:47:11 -0500
Subject: Weekend off-roading

I'm not sure what some members of the list have been complaining about
because it appears that Tom Bache can indeed put together a successful
and exciting off-road event!  This past weekend Tom and myself as well
as 7 other vehicles including a Series III, a Range Rover, 3 Defenders,
and one other Disco went off-roading in Harford, NY (a few minutes from
Greek Peak).  We had a great time and definitely had some really
challenging terrain and I can't wait to go back again!!!!

Doug

Douglas J. Böhme
dboehme@pa.navisys.com
'95 Red D90 #2767

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:06:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

Michael,

Undo the connection on the master cylinder - the one to the output line. If it
returns, then odds-on you've got a bad clutch flexible pipe. I've seen this
before - the pipe deteriorates internally and acts like a 1-way valve,
preventing the release mechanism from pushing out the slave.

You DO have the springs back on the clutch pedal, right?

                         ajr

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:42:27 -0500
Subject: Torque for suspension nuts

>Carl Petter Swensson <cepe@online.no>

>Joke aside, could anyone give me any hints as to how
>tight the (shacle/spring/U-bolt etc.) nuts should be tightend? 

The important thing is that there has to be room between the bushing and
shackle plate so the plate can move and do its thing.  Width of a thin
screwdrive blade is fine, say 1/16" or so.  Use plenty of anti-seize on
everything. The shackle plate bolt should only be tightened down until the
desired gap is acheived.  However, once you put on the locking nut, crank
down on that sucker.  If the shackle plate touches the bushing, it'll get
bound up and the springs will prematurely fail.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:42:24 -0500
Subject: What winch?

Bill Rice Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:

>Aside:  Did you know that about 15 guys pulling on a tow strap will get an
>88" up a super-steep hill way faster than a winch?

There's a photo of the CT in Borneo somwhere that show a *whole village* of
70 or more guys on a 100' rope pulling out one of the vehicles.  Sometimes
low-tech is superior....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:45:01 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Subscribing & U-Joints

Hi all, I'm back from LA (yuck!) and trying to re-subscribe.  The
directions I used last time don't seem to work.  Is there a new method?
I've been sending "subscribe lro" to majordomo - dosen't work.

I need to get u-joints for my '65 IIA.  I got alt. part numbers from OVLR
(I think), but the layout makes it a little vague.  Anybody know what size
I'd need.  Is the 2 15/16 is standard untill series 3?  Looks like that
would be a Precision 344 or a Spicer 5-4x.
I'm trying to get them locally.

Can you help me off list, since I am not subscribed yet - Thanks - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:22:16 -0700
Subject: Re: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

Pete,

I have two photographs of those derelict Land Rovers on Maui that I
could send as jpeg email attachments if you'd like.  I also have a
color-correct Series II wiring diagram that I created.  You can't tell
the difference between the ones you see in the various manuals and this
one, except mine's in full color.  I can send any of the above to you in
any format, but obviously jpeg is much smaller than bmp.  However, you
can modify the wiring diagram using Microsoft Paint (included with
Windows) if I send the bmp file.

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
1960 Series II SWB

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 06:28:11
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

	Are you doing this on the bench and did you use the included red grease 
in
the rebuild kit and/or have you introduced some brake fluid.  Once the unit
is installed in vehicle, the clutch pedal spring is in place, and the unit
is pumping fluid, the piston will move freely if you put the seal in the
right way round (actually will move even more freely if the seal is
backwards, just won't do much in the way of pumping fluid).  Out of the
vehicle, with a new seal, and/or no lubricating fluid, there is enough
internal friction that the piston may stay in position but should be
relatively easy to move in and out.  Doubt that you have a problem, but if
you want the practice, you could disassemble and be sure all the parts are
in place, according to the instructions.

Aloha Peter

>I have just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder on my SIII, but after I
>push the pedal, the piston won't return, it stays pushed in. The
>cylinder looked fine, and (I believe) I was very careful about pushing
>the piston seal into the cylinder.
>Michael

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 06:38:28
Subject: Re: Torque for suspension nuts

	The center tube of the bushing stands proud of the outside tube of the
bushing.  This allows the shackle and center tube to pivot and the rubber
of the bush to flex taking up the slight twisting motion and fore and aft
shock.  Leaving the shackles loose will result in elongation of the bolt
holes in the shackle and a groove being worn in the face of the shackle by
the center tube of the bushing.  
	My 88 has done well over 100,000 miles with the shackle bolts real tight
and they are good as new.  My parts truck had less than 50,000 miles on it
but the shackles had been run loose and the shackles were toast.  Not the
only SPOT that resulted in it becoming a premature parts truck.

Aloha Peter

At 10:42 AM 11/16/98 -0500, you wrote:

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From: Michael Hatton <michael@calibre-dd.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:43:35 -0500
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

>Michael,

>Undo the connection on the master cylinder - the one to the output
line. If it
>returns, then odds-on you've got a bad clutch flexible pipe. I've seen
this
>before - the pipe deteriorates internally and acts like a 1-way valve,
>preventing the release mechanism from pushing out the slave.

The first time I assembled it I pushed the piston in with my finger and
it would not return. I reassembled it without pushing the piston in (and
using a new seal $$$) and primed it with fluid before installing it -
same thing one push on the pedal and .......nothing. I left it over
night to see if the magical LR demons let it move back .   >: (
-nothing!

>You DO have the springs back on the clutch pedal, right?

You only make that mistake once : )
The pedal moves back pulling the push rod but leaves the piston at the
end of the cylinder.

Thanks

Michael

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:55:41 -0600
Subject: RE: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

>>You DO have the springs back on the clutch pedal, right?
>You only make that mistake once : )
>The pedal moves back pulling the push rod but leaves the piston at the
>end of the cylinder.

Just a question: Did you filled up all the system before depressing the
pedal?
I dont know if this applies to LRs too, but on a previous car I had, when
the conducts-tubbings were filled with air, -previous to priming the
system-, the pedal would stay down. It required manual pumping of the pedal
to obtain some pressure from the pump.
How is your DOT 3 level?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Peter M. Kaskan" <pmk11@cornell.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:02:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: I'm back... U-joints

Oh Joy, it worked.  Now, about those U-joints...

I need to get u-joints for my '65 IIA.  I got alternative part numbers from
OVLR (I think), but the layout makes it a little vague.  Anybody know what
size I'd need.  Is the 2 15/16 is standard untill series 3?  Looks like
that would be a Precision 344 or a Spicer 5-4x.
I'm trying to get them locally.

Cheers - Peter

Peter M. Kaskan				Uris Hall 231
Office / 607-255-3382			Dept. Of Psychology
Lab /  607-255-6396			Cornell University
e-mail / pmk11@cornell.edu		Ithaca NY 14853
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/graduates/people/PeterM.Kaskan.htm
http://comp9.psych.cornell.edu/psychology/finlay/finlaylab.html

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:09:27 -0500
Subject: Re: I'm back... U-joints

Re: U-boats....er, joints....

The ones you most likely want are the Precision 369 - the 344 was the earlier
shafts and stopped in the early 60s. Both my 64 and the 67 have the Precision
369 joint - as do Range Rovers.....8*)

Be glad - the 344s are expensive, but the 369s are the common Chevy
rear-wheel-drive U-joint. Everybody and his dog used 'em...

I do recommend measuring the yokes on your shafts, though - might be someone
stuck an old shaft on a newer car. Seen THAT before, too....unfortunately.

                         ajr

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:19:33 -0700
Subject: Re: torque for suspension nuts

Sandy warns:
<<The important thing is that there has to be room between the bushing and
shackle plate so the plate can move and do its thing.  Width of a thin
screwdrive blade is fine, say 1/16" or so.  Use plenty of anti-seize on
everything. The shackle plate bolt should only be tightened down until the
desired gap is acheived.  However, once you put on the locking nut, crank
down on that sucker.  If the shackle plate touches the bushing, it'll get
bound up and the springs will prematurely fail.  Cheers>>

Do you mean there should be gaps between the bushing and shackle plate at
both the frame and the spring mountings? What about the front of the front
spring? Leave a gap there too or no? And I thought I was doing good
cranking everything down to 100 ft/lbs! Maybe my parabolics will ride
smoother yet.

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:42:37 -0800
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

Andy Grafton wrote:
> > OK, I give up.  How does this @#$%i8ng thing come off?
> You may find that if jerking and tugging won't work, a long constant
> pull will...  Grasp spokes, set feet firmly, and pull long and hard.

 I find that rocking it works great also. Pull on the left side harder,
and then the right, back and fourth wiggling until it comes off. And
yes, do watch as I have smacked myself in the head when it finally let
go. Hey, that might explain a few things.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" getting a bumper and beaver winchectomy today

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:11:42
Subject: Re: shackle bolts should be tight

	The center tube of the bushing stands proud of the outside tube of the
bushing.  This provides space between the bush and the frame or spring and
allows the shackle and center tube to pivot and the rubber of the bush to
flex taking up the slight twisting motion and fore and aft shock.  Leaving
the shackles loose will result in elongation of the bolt holes in the
shackle and a groove being worn in the face of the shackle by the center
tube of the bushing.  If they are left loose the shackles rock side to side
which results in the bolt holes elongating.  Tighten up those shackle bolts
to a real stout tension using a standard 1/2" inch ratchet handle, breaker
bars and extension handles are not necessary.  Lock nuts on out side should
be just as tight.  Someone mentioned 100 foot pounds but I think this is a
bit much.	Probably something between 40 and 70 foot pounds would be
adequate.  
	My 88 has done well over 100,000 miles with the shackle bolts real tight
and they are good as new.  My parts truck had less than 50,000 miles on it
but the shackles had been run loose and they were toast.  Not the only SPOT
that resulted in it becoming a premature parts truck.

Aloha Peter

At 10:19 AM 11/16/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Sandy warns:
><<The important thing is that there has to be room between the bushing and
>shackle plate so the plate can move and do its thing.  

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 14:05:04 -0500
Subject: JB Landrovers

Someone was looking for the JB Lanrovers web site address:

http://www.btinternet.com/~jblandrovers/

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:06:20 -1000
Subject: Re: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

>Pete,
>I have two photographs of those derelict Land Rovers on Maui that I
>could send as jpeg email attachments if you'd like.  I also have a
>color-correct Series II wiring diagram that I created.

Keith
.jpg would be great.  Thanks.  If you do not mind I will add the wiring to
my 'under construction' website (with the propercredits off course) so other
on the list can view and you only need to send once
Pete

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From: "Todd Ondick" <tondick@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:10:01 PST
Subject: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly

Howdy everyone-
I've just installed a delco 3-wire alternator on place of a motorola 
unit (one of many SPOTs) on my '65 88 (- earth).  The wiring loom looked 
as though it had been attacked by an army of crimp-connector wielding 
gremlins.  Hence, no leads to the ammeter and no (absent) charge warning 
light. I ran the main alt. feed straight to the battery and  the red 
sense lead to the starter switch; I believe this will work.  It is the 
warning light feed that I had trouble with.  I ran this wire to a light 
to achieve the required resistance and then to ground... bad news.  The 
charge light came on all right and got brighter as rpms increased.  I 
switched the lamp from ground to switched + on the  ignition, lamp works 
as it should...  Only now the engine won't start.  I left the warning 
light feed connected in the former manner for 8 hrs. or so before 
switching it.  Yes the battery was connected.  Now to my question - 
could the grounding of the new warning light feed part of the switched 
power circuit causing the coil to burn out?  Any suggestions?  

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:15:22 -1000
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

John and Muddy recomended a flat bar and some threaded rod and build your
own puller.  I had an 18" piece of angle stock lating about.  Drilled a hole
in it.  Welded a 1/2 nut on the bar.  But the bar under the steering wheel.
Lined up the hole with the steering shaft.  Ran a piece of threaded rod in,
pulled het right out.  No marks on the wheel.  No major injuries.  Course
this was much better then the "yank hard" method as my bulkhead is currently
in the garage, the rest of the vehicle is in bits in the storage shed,
rolling chassis under a tarp in the driveway.

Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:17:36 -1000
Subject: Re: Just installed a new Fairey Overdrive

>1. I have a LHD vehicle and the connecting bar on the handbrake mechanism
>lies directly on the overdrive.  They literally touch each-other.  I
presume
>that this is due to the geometry of my individual vehicle.  Is this normal?
>Does it matter?

David,
did you ever get an answer to this one?  As my body is stripped but the
drive train is still on the frame I can snap a few pics and post them so you
can see what the set up looks like.  My hand brake is most definately not
touching the OD unit.
let me know
Pete

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 14:30:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly

Re: Warning light cooking the coil:

Nope, don't think so - you've gotten a parallel problem. Sounds to me like
you've knocked a wire off the coil feed or some such.

Take your voltmeter and probe around the points leads and I' think you'll find
something's come undone in there.

As far as your wiring connections go, i tend to connect the alternator to the
unswitched side of the fuseblock - this way it senses the resistance in the
harness when it's charging - ajr

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 14:41:40 EST
Subject: Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly

In a message dated 11/16/98 2:31:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> As far as your wiring connections go, i tend to connect the alternator to
the
>  unswitched side of the fuseblock - this way it senses the resistance in the
>  harness when it's charging 

Al, 

Do recommend putting the sense on the same side as the brown lead or hook it
up across the fuse?  Seems that one would not want a blown fuse to lead to
overcharging.

Nate

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:39:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Just installed a new Fairey Overdrive

I have a Toro, but I also had this problem. I ended up drilling two new 
holes in the handbrake bracket on the drivers side so that the linkage
is lifted a bit. The handbrake still works fine.

before                 after
bracket              bracket
_______              ________
|    O |             |     O |
| O    |             | O   O |

bracket on frame
before		    after				
_______              ________
|    O |             | O   O |
| O    |             | O     | 

The bottom hole on the frame bracket and the top hole on the linkage
bracket are no longer used. I hope I explained it well enough.
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser  
Peter Hope wrote:

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 22:08:00 +0200
Subject: RE: Idiot can't troubleshoot

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 22:21:38 +0200
Subject: RE: Petrol vs Diesel (availability)

Agreed Paul

<snip>
|Across the Limpopo, the situation changes.  Again, not all
|filling stations
|have diesel, but those that do are more likely to have fuel (it's not
|uncommon to find dry petrol bowsers in Zambia, for instance).
|There will
|probably be fuel of both types available within a few tens of
|kilometers.
|Diesel is usually *MUCH* cheaper, and unleaded is usually unobtainable.

The other thing ofcourse is that contaminated diesel is not too much of a
problem vs contaminated petrol

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'52 SI 80"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:32:51 -1000
Subject: Re: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

>>I am going to build a rolling cradle to place the engine/trans/xfer onto.
>>Soon as the rack is done I will finish stripping the drive train from the
>>frame.  And then the work actually begins

>Do you have a design for such a cradle? I might like to make one.
>Gerald
>>frame.  And then the work actually begins

I have placed the plan at:
http://www.wccafe.com/phope/cradle.htm
This is just a plan I have not built it yet, but you can see what I am
thinking of doing.
Aloha
Pete

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From: "Emil King" <ewader@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 12:51:49 PST
Subject: Rover sightings

This weekend:

"FIA Safari Rallye" near Nairobi-as the rallye racers sped by in their 
supercharged Seats and Toyotas, one could glance a Rover, Land Cruiser, 
or Pajero in the background. Lots of action and nice shots.

"Colossal Claw" on National Geographic Explorer-group of students and 
paleontologists go to Niger to study a new dino. They drive maybe 6 or 7 
Defender 110s and one white Land Cruiser.  LOTS of footage-try to tape 
this one.

Newest issue of 'Sports Afield' I believe-there's a picture of a Series 
II?(I'm not good at recognition yet) in an add for something. I'm sure 
someone knows what company this is.

Also, Fall '98 issue of 'Camping Life' has a Woolrich ad on page 9. In 
the top left corner is a lady bending over-in the background is what 
appears to be a white D90?  Sorry if I see the minute details of things, 
but I'm a science major....

Emil King
Hampton, VA

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 13:23:26 -0800
Subject: Re: Subscribing & U-Joints

Peter the change over took place about 1963 so if your LR is older than
this it will have the bigger u joint. We have them in stock for $17.00 Ray.

----------
> From: Peter M. Kaskan <pmk11@cornell.edu>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Subscribing & U-Joints
> Date: Monday, November 16, 1998 7:45 AM
> Hi all, I'm back from LA (yuck!) and trying to re-subscribe.  The
> directions I used last time don't seem to work.  Is there a new method?
> I've been sending "subscribe lro" to majordomo - dosen't work.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> I need to get u-joints for my '65 IIA.  I got alt. part numbers from OVLR
> (I think), but the layout makes it a little vague.  Anybody know what
size

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 17:30:55 -0400
Subject: Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly

Todd Ondick wrote:

> Howdy everyone-
> I've just installed a delco 3-wire alternator on place of a motorola
> unit (one of many SPOTs) on my '65 88 (- earth).  The wiring loom looked
> as though it had been attacked by an army of crimp-connector wielding
> gremlins.  Hence, no leads to the ammeter and no (absent) charge warning
> light. I ran the main alt. feed straight to the battery and  the red
> sense lead to the starter switch; I believe this will work.  It is the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> could the grounding of the new warning light feed part of the switched
> power circuit causing the coil to burn ou

Todd. I think you have the wrong wire to the light. It should be the small
White one. The larger red one can loop tp the out put terminal or for  more
sensitive control go to the nearest connection to the battery , often this
is the solenoid. It is possible that if a fuse in this line blows the
alternator will see no voltage and try to push the charge rate  too high.
   John and Muddy

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:40:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly

Re: Fused or unfused:

I'd do two things, meself.

First, put the alternator to the unfused side.

Second, put a fusible link in the line to the battery. This way, if things go
seriously pear-shaped, you have a chance of not owning a flambeed dessert on
wheels...

A fusible link is typically 6 inches of wire, two gauges smaller than the wire
you're protecting. Hence, a 10-gauge wire would have a 12-gauge link and so
forth. Considering how folks overwire these things, I might go 3 gauges smaller
and accept the risk of heavy loads taking out the fusible link over time. That's
what spares are for...

                         ajr

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From: "Scott Phillips" <goin4xn@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 13:57:15 PST
Subject: Companies that Support SUWA & Sierra Club

This was forwarded to me and I thought that I would pass it on.  I for 
one will be spending my money at Cabella's and Eddie Bauer.  Lands End, 
A-16, Patagonia and REI will nolonger be getting any more of my money.

Scott Phillips
1984 CJ-7
http://www.circle17.com/jeep/scott
http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm
Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep

====================================
     Patagonia, REI, and A-16 are noted for their extreme green leanings 
along with Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream and Land's End.  The heiress to the 
Miller Beer has been a major contributor to the land closure fights; 
specifically with the California Desert Confiscation Act.  Haven't heard 
much about her in reference to the Utah issue.

     Eddie Bauer is supportive of off-road and other recreational 
interests.  Cabella's is definately geared to a variety of outdoor 
activities.  IMHO, you can get the same clothing items from Cabella's 
that you can get from Patagonia, REI, Land's End and A-16 and at a 
cheaper price.

     While the eco-terrist activities of Earth First!, ELA, and the 
various animal rights groups are being reported, noticve the softer tone 
of language as opposed to the reports of anti-abortion activists.

     What is slipping in the back door is the Global Warming Treaty.  
That is a very real threat to more than how you use a motor vehicle.

John Stewart
Tierra del Sol 4WDC of San Diego
http://www.off-road.com/~tds4x4/

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 17:15:56 EST
Subject: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

In a message dated 11/16/98 4:42:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> Second, put a fusible link in the line to the battery. This way, if things
go
>  seriously pear-shaped, you have a chance of not owning a flambeed dessert
on
>  wheels...

Very interesting...
As a relatively naive "electrician", could one run the alternator output to a
big fuse panel--say 50 - 60 amp fuses--and run the A and A1 wires off the
fused circuit?

Nate

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 18:24:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

Re: Fusing the A and A1 leads:

No reason you couldn't - as a matter of fact it's a damned good idea. Were I to
do this I think I'd use watertight cartridge fuseholders - industrial stuff.

Either that, or raid a junkyard for the underhood fuse panel out of some rice
burner - the Mazda pickup I used to own had a 4-fuse block that would be ideal
for such an application.

                         ajr

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:27:46 -0700
Subject: Re: alternator wiring

This discussion has me wondering 'bout my own wiring setup. I planned to
run the Delco output direct to the battery, but I ran short on wire. The
nearest thing was the solenoid, so I slapped it on the same terminal as the
batt. positive cable. In my thinking, it wouldn't make any difference which
end of the cable it was on (batt or solenoid), right? I ran the sense lead
to the unswitched fuse at the box. So far, it's worked well, but it's
winter now and sometimes my charge warning light doesn't light when I turn
the key. I'm getting a little jumpy here. Does my wiring sound OK?

-joseph (patient with slow vehicle) and sidney (patient with incompetent owner)
missoula, mt (patient with us both)

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From: "Todd Ondick" <tondick@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 15:39:57 PST
Subject:  Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly

Thanks, Alan and John- the polarity switch did fry the coil.  I put a 
new coil in and it  fired right up.  I really like the fusable link 
idea, not a lot of work to keep things safe. Nate, the fusable link 
works in the same manner as a fuse; they have specific amp/voltage 
ratings at which they'll blow.  Oh, for anyone else doing a delco 
alternator conversion that hasa SPOT-customized electrical system, I'd 
suggest looking up other non-rover alt. conversion sites.  This helped 
quite a bit in my case.

-Todd Ondick
'65 88 IIA

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:25:30 -0500
Subject: Re: alternator wiring

Joseph panics: 8*)

This discussion has me wondering 'bout my own wiring setup. I planned to
run the Delco output direct to the battery, but I ran short on wire. The
nearest thing was the solenoid, so I slapped it on the same terminal as the
batt. positive cable. In my thinking, it wouldn't make any difference which
end of the cable it was on (batt or solenoid), right? I ran the sense lead
to the unswitched fuse at the box. So far, it's worked well, but it's
winter now and sometimes my charge warning light doesn't light when I turn
the key. I'm getting a little jumpy here. Does my wiring sound OK?

Seriously, what you have is great. By doing what you've done you've shortened
the run to the instruments and the like, thereby reducing the resistance a bit.
The reason the light's not coming on is more likely a dodgy bulb socket or
connection than it is anything else.

Get out the emery cloth and perform the Lucas Ritual (with apologies to AC
Doyle) - clean all the contacts and grounds, with special attention to the
fuseblock contacts.

                    aj"Relax - it ain't rocket science!"r

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:39:49 -0400
Subject: Re: alternator wiring

Joseph Broach wrote:

> This discussion has me wondering 'bout my own wiring setup. I planned to
> run the Delco output direct to the battery, but I ran short on wire. The
> nearest thing was the solenoid, so I slapped it on the same terminal as the

Run the sense wire to the same terminal on the solenoid as it needs to as close 
to
the battery as possible so that it gets a true voltage. You may well be getting 
a
voltage drop at the fuse holder.  This wire doesn't have to be fused, it isn't 
in
any original delco set up I have seen.
The light not going out may be as simple as the fan belt tension.
   John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:46:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/16/98 4:42:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:
> > Second, put a fusible link in the line to the battery. This way, if things
> go
> >  seriously pear-shaped, you have a chance of not owning a flambeed dessert
> on
> >  wheels...
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> As a relatively naive "electrician", could one run the alternator output to a
> big fuse panel--say 50 - 60 amp fuses--

 This would depend on the rated out put of your alternator. a 50 amp fuse on 
an85
amp alternator would get very annoying after the first 3 or 4 time the fuse went
out.
I know that Land Rovers traditionally have a lack of fuses by modern standards
but lets not get carried away here :)
  John and Muddy

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:54:31 EST
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator

In a message dated 98-11-15 21:21:41 EST, you write:

 Doahh!!
 I meant to say positive ground.  Damn I mean negative ground..
 Pete
  >>
Mmmm welll, Never mind.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:01:39 EST
Subject: Re: Landrover Rumblings

In a message dated 98-11-16 00:07:18 EST, you write:

 The front prop shaft is designed to rotate when the vehicle is driven,
 so that when you drive over bumps the rattling and shaking is evenly
 distributed over the entire circumference of the male and female
 splines. As soon as you drive with your hubs unlocked, and the front
 propshaft lies still the male-female joint is subjected to lots and lots
 of small (sometimes not so small) hammering movements which quite
 quickly deform the female spline into an elliptical shape. You don't
 notice this of course, until you engage your hubs. The problem is easily
 solved, but unfortunately not cheap to solve. A new (or reconditioned)
 front prop shaft is in order, and to prevent re-occurrence - which is
 inevitable as long as the vehicle is driven with hubs disengaged -
 either keep your FWH permanently engaged or replace them with fixed
 drive flanges. 
 
 >>
The same thing happened to my SIIA which never saw a lockout hub.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:06:46 EST
Subject: Re: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

In a message dated 11/16/98 7:47:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

<< As a relatively naive "electrician", could one run the alternator output to
a
 > big fuse panel--say 50 - 60 amp fuses--
 
  This would depend on the rated out put of your alternator. a 50 amp fuse on
an85
 amp alternator would get very annoying after the first 3 or 4 time the fuse
went
 out. >>

I'm thinking of my own selfish situation ;o)

63 amp Delco alt with a 60 amp fuse...should be good to go except under
extreme situations (like heavy winching).  But thats why Sears makes
screwdrivers (10,000 amp fuse).

Nate

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 18:26:23 -0700
Subject: Re: alternator wiring Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com

Thanks for the encouragement, Alan. Come to think of it, your article's the
reason I have an alternator in the first place! Today I found that giving
the cluster a bump turns the light on, so, yes probably something loose at
the back. I forget how much we Series owners consider normal until I ferry
the rare rider in Sidney. After Sid's been sitting for more than a day or
two, I pop the hood and check the oil, close the sticky heater valve so
he'll warm up quicker, and then crawl underneath to be sure nothing's
leaking more or less than normal. I then hop in, pull the center seat squab
to have a look at the Fairey dipstick. If all's well I give the cluster a
tap to make the charge light flicker to life (new), pull the choke and
crank him up. I then hop back out to check and/or change the FWH position
and look to see if gas/oil is spewing out anywhere. Finally, with hood
closed I hop back in and work the shifter around a bit to get the cold 90wt
oozing around. Then as I roll away another tap brings the speedo to life
(obsolete after this weekend's work, but habits are hard to break). By this
time, my passenger has either a) decided I'm a total wacko or b) walked to
wherever they were going. Well, I've rambled on again...

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:34:51 EST
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

In a message dated 98-11-16 09:48:06 EST, you write:

 I have just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder on my SIII, but after I
 push the pedal, the piston won't return, it stays pushed in. The
 cylinder looked fine, and (I believe) I was very careful about pushing
 the piston seal into the cylinder.
 What actually causes the piston to return? (I did not think it was the
 valve spring, BWDIK)
 
 Help - an afternoon job turned into a weekend and it looks like we're
 getting our first snow tonight!
 
 Cheers
 
 Michael
 
 >>
The clutch actuator fork, under the influence of the pressure plate springs
provides the major portion of force to return the master cylinder to the
normal position. (fluid pressure returning). The clutch pedal is supposed to
have a spring located in the driver's footwell that pulls it out of engagement
with the master cylinder. If you do not have the proper adjustment between the
actuator rod (attached to the pedal lever) and the end of the master cylinder
piston two things will happen. First the pressure will not release from the
system and the clutch (still partially engaged) will slip. Secondly the force
of the rod engaging the piston will force it off center and eventually wear
out the upper portion of the cylinder bore ruining the cylinder. This is the
voice of bitter experience.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:45:03 -0500
Subject: Re: alternator wiring

Re: Sense wire to the main lead:

Pardon me for saying this, but this defeats the purpose of the remote sense
lead. You WANT the sense wire to see the voltage drop - that's what it's for.
This allows the remote compensation for line losses, i.e.: it jacks the voltage
up a bit so that the items wired to the fuseblock see an honest 13.8 - 14 volts.

This gets important on the cold winter nights that have heater, wipers and
headlights on... it allows the alternator to compensate for the losses and still
charge the battery and operate the accessories effectively.

                    ajr

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 22:28:06
Subject: O.D.

>1. I have a LHD vehicle and the connecting bar on the handbrake mechanism
>lies directly on the overdrive.  They literally touch each-other.  I presume
>that this is due to the geometry of my individual vehicle.  Is this normal?
>Does it matt

I really have to ask you this question! Which side of the Trans. tunnel is
your handbrake handle located? I have a 1966 109 sw that is also LHD, my
handle is on the left side of the Trans. tunnel. I am also about to install
a NEW OD. If your HB handle is on the OD does it interfear with the operation?

As to the whine, I believe that one has to make the supreme effort to get
the 100lbs. of torque stated in the installation instructions.

Jim Wolf

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 22:00:11 EST
Subject: Re: O.D.

In a message dated 11/16/98 9:35:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< As to the whine, I believe that one has to make the supreme effort to get
 the 100lbs. of torque stated in the installation instructions.
  >>

As others have mentioned, this can be acheived by making a socket...either
with a section of pipe with notches cut or with a large socket with notches
cut and the inner diameter trimmed a bit.

Put it on a torque wrench and Bob's yer uncle. 

Nate 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:35:58 EST
Subject: Re: Rebuilt Clutch doesn't

In a message dated 98-11-16 12:00:51 EST, you write:

<< I dont know if this applies to LRs too, but on a previous car I had, when
 the conducts-tubbings were filled with air, -previous to priming the
 system-, the pedal would stay down. It required manual pumping of the pedal
 to obtain some pressure from the pump.
 How is your DOT 3 level?
 
 >>
Two points on this:

I usually prime the system by bleeding it at the outlet fitting to clear the
MC and then stroke the pedal slowly to bleed the line. One technique I learned
from trying to use the practically useless Easi-Bleed tool is that I can bleed
the lines simply by applying a small amount of air pressure to the top of the
MC reservoir. It only takes about half as much pressure as you can apply with
your breath. (No Monica jokes please.) So I place the Easi- Bleed adaptor on
the reservoir, pressurize it by blowing in the tube, and release the bleed
screw. When all the air is out your problem will disappear. 

Secondly, DOT THREE!!!!!!!!!! NEVER use DOT 3 in any brake system that uses
natural rubber seals. Some of the later Girling systems used Neoprene seals
but for the most part all Girling systems should use DOT 4 fluid. Using the
wrong fluid can prove catastrophic.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 21:23:34 +1100
Subject: Rover Wiring

John Cranfield wrote:

>You  would be well advised to track down a bunch of different colours
>though.

What I do is pick up an old wiring loom from the same model car, strip
that apart and I have all the wires with the right colour insulation
for the job in hand.  Not only that, they have the right plugs and
sockets.

Old looms cost peanuts.  Alternatively, get a loom from another
British car that uses Lucas electrics.  That way the wiring colours
will be the same - they will use the Lucas colour code.

Ron

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From: Don and Yvonne <dandy@saltspring.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 20:48:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

Have removed many a wheel this way. If fitting a puller to the hub is
out of the question, undo the nut and reverse it until it's flush with
the shaft end, have some one pull/push up on the steering wheel while
you smack the shaft with a brass drift (a large one, not 1/2") and a
ball peen. Usually will pop off in one or two smacks. Don't let the
drift strike the shaft at an angle or you'll damage the nut/threads.
-- 
Cheers,
Don Fee  

1968 series IIA 88"  (our DandY Landy)
1967 series IIA 109" s/w Safari (the yard sculpture)

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 19:01:23 -1000
Subject: Re: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

>63 amp Delco alt with a 60 amp fuse...should be good to go except under
>extreme situations (like heavy winching).  But thats why Sears makes
>screwdrivers (10,000 amp fuse).

Hell, get yer self a couple a rail road spikes.  250,000 amps.

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 21:16:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Zenith starting trouble

Brett Storey wrote:

> I just retired my Rochester and an now running on a Zenith carb and I
> have a question. The Zenith runs fine, but after I shut the engine off
> after a run, if it sits for more than a couple of minutes, it takes a
> lot (up to 15 seconds) of cranking to get it started again.

I can sympathize with that!  I have EXACTLY the same symptoms with a
Zenith.I've not had time to chase the problem down yet (it's compounded by a
weak starter).

Sometimes flooring the pedal as for a flooded engine clears it in a
reasonable time.

I'd be very interested in anything you come up with.  On my list to check
are :

Float level
Fuel pressure (unlikely to be excessive... I'm using the original pump with
a rebuild kit.. not the aftermarket AC one reputed to supply too much)

With regards to the fuel vaporization issue, I've pondered that.  There's
fuel still in mine (work the throttle and watch).   I've not ruled out
percolation though (hence float/pressure).
Mine is also showing minor signs of seepage fromb the gaskets.

I'll post if I get around to tackling this in the near future.

Jeremy

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 00:17:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

On Mon, 16 Nov 1998, Peter Hope wrote:

:>screwdrivers (10,000 amp fuse).
:
:Hell, get yer self a couple a rail road spikes.  250,000 amps.

A guy that I used to work for had a fused 100,000 amp (at a couple
thousand volts) fuse on his desk.  It looked just like a glass fuse, like
the ones Lucas use, except the size of my forearm.  The fuse bit of it
appeared to have been an inch square.

David

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 00:33:03 EST
Subject: Re: Fusible link from Alternator (was Joe Lucas)

In a message dated 98-11-16 19:47:54 EST, you write:

  This would depend on the rated out put of your alternator. a 50 amp fuse on
an85
 amp alternator would get very annoying after the first 3 or 4 time the fuse
went
 out.
 I know that Land Rovers traditionally have a lack of fuses by modern
standards
 but lets not get carried away here :)
   John and Muddy
  >>
This really depends on how many accessories you plan to run on your Landie. as
I recall the generator on my SIIA was rated for 19 Amps. If you go nuts with
electrical devices you may exceed your 50 Amp fuse rating, but for the most
part and for normal use a massive alternator is just excess capacity which
will never be tapped...except for the case of a dead short and then the lower
the fuse rating the better.

 Alternators are regulated by a Zener diode to maintain a  preset Voltage and
therefore they only produce enough power to replace what has been used and
maintain the charging circuit at the setpoint. If the diodes fail the
alternator stops charging therefore there is little chance of the alternator
overcharging or "burning up" the system. The alternator will produce power up
to its rated output only when there is a demand for it. The fuses could better
be used in the circuitry downstream.

If you want to be able to monitor your charging system condition use a
voltmeter. it will tell you if the alternator is working properly. An ammeter
is useless in an alternator charging system because the power fluctuations
with the exception of start-up are so small that they only register for a few
moments and the needle will spend most of its time at or near the 0 Amp mark.

My two bits

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 00:42:32 EST
Subject: Re: alternator wiring Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com

In a message dated 98-11-16 20:27:29 EST, you write:

<< After Sid's been sitting for more than a day or
 two, I pop the hood and check the oil, close the sticky heater valve so
 he'll warm up quicker, and then crawl underneath to be sure nothing's
 leaking more or less than normal. I then hop in, pull the center seat squab
 to have a look at the Fairey dipstick. If all's well I give the cluster a
 tap to make the charge light flicker to life (new), pull the choke and
 crank him up. I then hop back out to check and/or change the FWH position
 and look to see if gas/oil is spewing out anywhere. Finally, with hood
 closed I hop back in and work the shifter around a bit to get the cold 90wt
 oozing around. Then as I roll away another tap brings the speedo to life
 (obsolete after this weekend's work, but habits are hard to break). By this
 time, my passenger has either a) decided I'm a total wacko or b) walked to
 wherever they were going. Well, I've rambled on again...
 
 -joseph and sidney
 missoula, mt
  >>
Reminds me of a procedure I read once for starting a Type 35 Bugatti.

Bill Lawrence

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From: "james howington" <jphowington@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 23:25:57 PST
Subject: Volvo b20f in a Series 2a

I'm thinking about replacing the GMC 250 installed in my Series 2A by a 
previous owner with Volvo B20F. From the data I've been able to locate I 
think it will be a good match with regard to horse power and torque. In 
order to avoid some unforeseen pit-falls, I would be interested in 
receiving some feedback before I proceed with the swap. Thank you in 
advance for your help.

J.P. Howington

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From: peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se (Peter =?iso-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?= )
Date: 	Tue, 17 Nov 1998 10:35:40 +0100
Subject: Re: Volvo b20f in a Series 2a

>I'm thinking about replacing the GMC 250 installed in my Series 2A by a
>previous owner with Volvo B20F. From the data I've been able to locate I
>think it will be a good match with regard to horse power and torque. In
>order to avoid some unforeseen pit-falls, I would be interested in
>receiving some feedback before I proceed with the swap. Thank you in
>advance for your help.

I think this has been done in Sweden and I think there might be a company
that makes adapterplates as well. I think they used a B21A though. If
someone is interested I could try and find out more about it.

Peter

Dr. Peter Thoren
Department of Genetics, Uppsala University
Box 7003, S-750 07 Uppsala, Sweden
Fax +46 18 67 27 05
Tel +46 18 67 12 69, 67 26 64
e-mail: peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: "Steve Mace" <steve@solwise.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:17:17 -0000
Subject: Re: Zenith starting trouble

In the past I've suffered the same problem. Seems to be 
something assosciated with heat build up under the 
bonnet. I had the problem when I was using a K&N filter. 
Changed back to the old oil-bath and the problem went 
away. I assumed it was due to the very hot air above the 
exhaust manifold being drawn in causing a problem.

On 16 Nov 98, at 21:16, Jeremy Bartlett wrote:

> > I just retired my Rochester and an now running on a Zenith carb and I
> > have a question. The Zenith runs fine, but after I shut the engine off
> > after a run, if it sits for more than a couple of minutes, it takes a
> > lot (up to 15 seconds) of cranking to get it started again.
> I can sympathize with that!  I have EXACTLY the same symptoms with a
> Zenith.I've not had time to chase the problem down yet (it's compounded by a
> weak starter).

Name: Dr Steve Mace
E-mail: steve@solwise.co.uk
www: http://www.solwise.co.uk
Tel: +44 1482 473899
Fax: +44 1482 472245

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 06:38:58 -0500
Subject: Re: alternator wiring

Jospeh details a lengthy procedure for starting a Rover:

Are you sure this isn't the mythical Wright R-1340  DC-3 conversion installed in
a Series IIa? Sure sounds like the game of musical chairs i've seen when people
start radial engines.....8*)

               Cool! -ajr

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