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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 09:02:56 -0400
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

Try < http://www.riveter.com>

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 09:17:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator

Peter.  The voltage sensing wire that you show attached to the fuse should go
direct to the closest connection to the battery ( in this case the solenoid).
          You can include an inline fuse or fusible link. This is to avoid any
voltage drop through other connections and a possible over charging situation.
      The rest of your scheme seems fine.
          John and Muddy

Peter Hope wrote:

> Aloha
> I have been examining the Haynes electric diagrams for my project (they suck
> by the way) and going over the existing harness.  Have also studied the
> articles in the FAQ and on other websites about the Delco conversion.
> I have a 1970 Ser IIa 88" positive ground.  The following link is a picture
> of the 'new' diagram with the delco installed.  Could someone familiar with
> the conversion take a look and let me know what they think?

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From: "david hope" <davidjhope@email.msn.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 08:12:36 -0600
Subject: Just installed a new Fairey Overdrive

Two questions:

1. I have a LHD vehicle and the connecting bar on the handbrake mechanism
lies directly on the overdrive.  They literally touch each-other.  I presume
that this is due to the geometry of my individual vehicle.  Is this normal?
Does it matter?

2. When engaged the overdrive gives out a definite whine. Is there any
adjustment that can be made to reduce this?  Remember this is a new
overdrive.

Thanks in advance.

David Hope
64llA

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 09:08:17 -0500
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> Tried the below address but got a file not found error message.  Any
> suggestions on how to get through.
> Aloha Peter

Peter;
Try
> >www.riveter.com/english/index.html
It just worked fine
Rgds
Steve

> >www.riveter.com/english/index.html

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 98 06:59:53 -0800
Subject: Re: Rochester carb retrofit

>any info would be helpfull. I am replacing a solex on my 1965 2.25lt Is
>an adaptor required?
;
No adaptor is needed but you will need the correct gasket under the carb. 
 DO NOT USE A SOLEX CARB BASE GASKET.

I wrote a how-to that is located in the FAQ section of my web site.  You 
can get t it by locating the FAQ link on my contents page or by the 
Rochester link in my index of subjects.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman

Good luck!!!

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 98 07:06:09 -0800
Subject: Re: Rochester Carb for 2.25lt 1965

>I am looking for a part number for a bolt on application of a Rochester
>carb on my 65 IIa.to replace the original Solex.  Do I need a adaptor
>for this application?

I do not have the carb number (my tag broke off the carb) but I do have 
the application.  Ask for a carb from a 1953 Chevy with the 235 Cu inch 
engine.  There are three Rochestor carbs that look alike except that the 
venturi sizes are different each was for a different displacment Chevy 
engine.  You need the the one that has the 30.9mm venturi.

I wrote a how-to that is located in the FAQ section of my web site.  You 
can get t it by locating the FAQ link on my contents page or by the 
Rochester link in my index of subjects.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman

Good luck!!!

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:12:53 -0500
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

Go to www.off-road.com/OVLR, and scroll down to the member's pages - it's in
there.

                    ajr

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 98 07:30:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring

>what gauge is the wiring in the rover?  It looks like 14.  Was thinking of
>using a generic fuse box and running 12 gauge.

I think they used three gauges of wire in the series wiring harness.  
They do not use the gauge system.  In this application they gave wire 
size by the number of strands of wires in the bundle.  When I rewired my 
car I sourced my striped wire and bullet connectors from British Pacific. 
 I got my solid wires from the local HW store.  There is a Lucas wire 
colour code chart on my web site (http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman) that 
you can use for any additional wires you might want to add.

The Blue/white, blue and blue/red carry high current for the headlamps.  
If you have added high power hi beams you might want to consider mounting 
a solinoid near the battery to switch power directly from the battery to 
the hi beams.  It will be safer on your wiring harness and your hi beams 
will burn brighter.

Brown is the main feed from the battery before fuses or switches.  You 
might want to go #12 there.  The rest of the main feed wires on the other 
sides of switches and fuses are brown striped

Good luck with your project!!!

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 06:52:31 -1000
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator

John,
thanks.  Gotchya on the sensor.  I didn't think that both lines should go to
the fuse ,like that.  :-)

Pete

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From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:56:40 -0500
Subject: Zenith starting trouble

I just retired my Rochester and an now running on a Zenith carb and I
have a question. The Zenith runs fine, but after I shut the engine off
after a run, if it sits for more than a couple of minutes, it takes a
lot (up to 15 seconds) of cranking to get it started again. I'm guessing
that the heat rising up from the manifold is vaporizing the fuel in the
carb thus necessitating the excessive cranking on the restart.

I have let LR stand for a couple of hours to cool off, restarted (after
a lot of cranking) then shut off again after a few seconds. Next
morning, turn the key, and the engine fires immediately. What's up with
that? I have tried priming manually with the fuel pump, but this makes
no difference. I don't think the problem is elsewhere because I never
had this happen with the Rochester, it always fired right up, all the
time.

Anyone have any ideas what I can do about this? It isn't a big problem
today, but I'm worried about those cold winter mornings at - 20 C when
cranking power is at a premium.

Thanks for any help

Brett

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From: DHW4U@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 12:06:04 EST
Subject:  Landrover Rumblings

  I have developed several new noises in my rover the front end rumble is my
next project. With the hubs out it's not bad but hubs in lot's of rumble at 40
mph and up 
but i am thinking it might generate from the transfer case. When i try one hub
in one out it isn't as bad. Also the case in 4x4 has a light scraping sound in
lower gears. I have pulled the front axles to check universals they check out.
could wheel bearings cause this any advice is welcome.

dave walls
65 lla 88' (offroad everyday) 

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 07:47:08
Subject: Re: Landrover Rumblings

	Check your front drive shaft.  If its worn and allows side to side
movement around the splined shaft, it will cause vibration similar to an
out of balance tire.  Since its not turning when the hubs are unlocked, it
is only noticeable when the hubs are locked.  Interestingly enough, I've
been told that driving with hubs unlocked is supposed to accelerate wear on
the drive shaft splines.

Aloha Peter

With the hubs out it's not bad but hubs in lot's of rumble at 40
>mph and up 

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From: galfradus@bigfoot.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 22:27:56
Subject: UK for sale Series III

Work pressure means i cant give the old girl the time and TLC she deserves
hence,

T & T 1978 Series III 2 1/4 diesel, overdrive plus a ton of spares
(literally).
Engine smokes on starting body work fair any offers. 

Please contact off list if interested.

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:33:17 +1000
Subject: Re: Drivetrain problem

I hate to state the obvious . . .  but don't forget there is a neutral
position on the transfer box !!!!

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:49:29 EST
Subject: Drivetrain problem
Hi all,
Nearly at the end of the transplant process... Now I'm afraid I'll have to
backtrack.
History:  Putting in new engine, transmission and overdrive.
Engine turns.  Viewing in the inspection plate, the clutch pressure plate
turns with the engine.  When I tightened down the nut on the mainshaft (100
ft-lbs), I put a socket on the engine starter dog, blocked it, and put the
tranny in gear.  No problems.
Put in the overdrive, (see  LRO archives for details).
Now, when tightening down the starter dog, engine turns, pressure plate
turns
but the OD and transfer case gears don't turn with the engine (transmission
engaged).
If I rotate the transmission brake drum, all turns in the transfer case and
overdrive.
Is there a neutral position on the OD?  When  I try to move the linkage,
the
shift fork barely moves forward or backward (Santana OD, but looks like a
similar design to Fairey)
Suggestions on what's up here?
Nate

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:38:53 +1000
Subject: Re: Class - Action (Non LR) - Enough

can we get back to Landys for a while now please?

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 15:10:32 -0700
Subject: I need a couple of parts!

Hey Gang,

I need to find two things.
1) A front axel housing for a '89 vintage Range Rover. Must be sound
from swivel to swivel, don't necessarily need any guts
2) looking for a "hoop" set for a 109 full length canvas.

If you can help, please respond directly to jwrover@colo-net.com or to
303/774-9225

Thanks,

John

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 17:51:17 EST
Subject: Ode to High Lift

Howdy all,
Just got back from the SOLAROS rally up in N. GA.  Rain, rain, and more rain.
Just hosed out Mrs. M. to get out 1) mud and 2) silt, from when I got stuck at
a tricky bend in a stream and submerged the left rear quarter of the truck.
Fortunately, unlike dave b, all four of my wheels were on the creek bed.

Tried towing me back to no avail.  D90 ahead of me said he couldn't possibly
back up due to a difficult section ahead of me that he couldn't make it thro'
backwards (which later turned out to be easy--not sure why he was so nervous
about; made the turn he was so scared of [deep water to one side] in my 109
w/o having to reverse), so I was well and truly stuck.  Got out the chain
(from its newly-submerged home in the toolbox), tow strap, and high lift and
though the high lift didn't actually pull the truck out as we jacked it up, it
put enough tension on the system that after attempt #2 I was able to drive up
and out of the pit.  Always knew this was possible conceptually but had never
done it or seen it done.  

Good weekend was had by all, even if the clay was so slick by Sat. afternoon
that the slightest incline was a challenge.  Aside:  Did you know that about
15 guys pulling on a tow strap will get an 88" up a super-steep hill way
faster than a winch?

Bill Rice
Columbus GA

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From: "Matthew J. Clement" <matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 22:49:46 -0000
Subject: UK Plates Available for Xmas

A few weeks ago I posted a message on this list concerning the purchase of UK
license plates for non-UK vehicles.  Further to several e-mail requests, I have
now added pictures of the UK plates so that you can get a better idea of what
you are purchasing, and what they will look like on your vehicle.

For more information and prices, please visit

http://www.home-mac.demon.co.uk/ukplates

If you would like your plates in time for Christmas, could you kindly contact
me by 1 December?

Many thanks,

Matthew
1984 110 V8

Matthew J. Clement
matt@home-mac.demon.co.uk

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 23:16:06 -0000
Subject: Re: Ode to High Lift

Bill,
Sounds like a good weekend!!

It does depend on the 15 guys. if they are all my size and health it would
still be there :-(>
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 23:21:43 -0000
Subject: Re: Ode to High Lift

Hi Bill,
sounds like you had a good time.
It depends on the fiffteen blokes. If they are all my size and health then
it would still be there :-(>
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+
     I !__|  [_]|_\___
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)======(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:24:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

> >what gauge is the wiring in the rover?  It looks like 14.  Was thinking of
> >using a generic fuse box and running 12 gauge.
> I think they used three gauges of wire in the series wiring harness.
> They do not use the gauge system.  In this application they gave wire
> size by the number of strands of wires in the bundle.  When I rewired my
> car I sourced my striped wire and bullet connectors from British Pacific.
>  I got my solid wires from the local HW store.  There is a Lucas wire
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Good luck with your project!!!
> TeriAnn Wakeman

TeriAnn what you say is absolutely right on but for some reason when used in
this type of application what you refer to as a solenoid is generally called a
relay.
This is not intended as a criticism just  an attempt to forestall confusion
    John and Muddy

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:28:34 -0400
Subject: Re: Landrover Rumblings

DHW4U@aol.com wrote:

>   I have developed several new noises in my rover the front end rumble is my
> next project. With the hubs out it's not bad but hubs in lot's of rumble at 40
> mph and up
> but i am thinking it might generate from the transfer case. When i try one hub
> in one out it isn't as bad. Also the case in 4x4 has a light scraping sound in
> lower gears. I have pulled the front axles to check universals they check out.

Check out the condition of your front drive shaft. This is typical of worn 
splines
on the slip joint.
   John and Muddy

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From: Carl Petter Swensson <cepe@online.no>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 00:28:09 +0100
Subject: Torque for suspension nuts

I just changes springs on my 1979 LWB Diesel Siii LR this weekend. The
computer consultant got some real hardware to work with for once. It
felt great debugging the shacle bolts with a hammer rather than using a
symbolic debugger. Joke aside, could anyone give me any hints as to how
tight the (shacle/spring/U-bolt etc.) nuts should be tightend? 

--cepe

-- 
Carl P. Swensson	internet: cepe@online.no	
			telephone: +47-928 937 40
                        telefax:   +47-929 737 40
I speak for myself. I will tell you when I speak for someone else

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:36:56 -0700
Subject: RE: Zenith starting trouble

Brett wrote:
<I just retired my Rochester and an now running on a Zenith carb and I
have a question. The Zenith runs fine, but after I shut the engine off
after a run, if it sits for more than a couple of minutes, it takes a
lot (up to 15 seconds) of cranking to get it started again.>

I think this may just be the nature of the Zenith. I replaced a Holly 2bbl
w/ one and was concerned like you about the excessive cranking when warm. I
just give it a bit of gas and it fires right up. Dad's Zenith acts the
same. Have you tried giving it gas while cranking? If this doesn't solve
it, you may have a problem. On a side note, the new Zenith gives
spectacular starts from cold, catches 2-3 revolution every time.

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 18:55:08 EST
Subject: Re: Landrover Rumblings

In a message dated 11/15/98 12:07:33 PM Eastern Standard Time, DHW4U@aol.com
writes:

<< I have developed several new noises in my rover the front end rumble is my
 next project. With the hubs out it's not bad but hubs in lot's of rumble at
40
 mph and up  >>

Check the front prop shaft.  Both the U joints and the slip joint.  

Nate

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:56:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Torque for suspension nuts

Carl Petter Swensson wrote:

> I just changes springs on my 1979 LWB Diesel Siii LR this weekend. The
> computer consultant got some real hardware to work with for once. It
> felt great debugging the shacle bolts with a hammer rather than using a
> symbolic debugger. Joke aside, could anyone give me any hints as to how
> tight the (shacle/spring/U-bolt etc.) nuts should be tightend?
> --cepe
> --
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> --
> Carl P. Swensson

Don't tighten at all until the full weight of the vehicle is on the wheels
then 100ftlbs
    John and Muddy

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:02:03 EST
Subject: Re: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

In a message dated 98-11-14 14:44:11 EST, you write:

<< I agree, how ever they are on other islands.  We discussed the idea but
 flying over, renting a room if there is no Guest Quarters available, rent a
 car, then taking the time needed to track down owners and purchase the
 hulks, have them towed to a shipper, shipped, and then towed back to my
 house seems like an ordeal.
 If it was only some small parts that could be disassembled and thrown into a
 duffle bag it would be no problem.
 I still have in my head to take a couple of days and get over to Maui, but
 it probably will not happen until after the holidays.
 Aloha
 Pete >>
Sounds like tough duty. I will probably sympathize with you up until it gets
too cold to work in the garage.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:17:43 EST
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

In a message dated 98-11-14 16:20:45 EST, you write:

<< The Delco alternators have an internal
 regulator right?
 The above article mentions shorting out the stock LR regulator, couldn't
 this just be bypassed all together? >>

The second generation Delco alternators have an external regulator which means
some of the very early ones don't. Yes you can remove the old regulator
altogether but you have to arrange for continuity of the wiring from the
output of the alternator to the accessory circuits. Fortunately NAPA supplies
a four gang terminal block which will screw down in place of the regulator
(uses the same captive nuts) and provide the connections you need. Study the
wiring diagram before you start.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:45:38 EST
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator

In a message dated 98-11-15 03:29:50 EST, you write:

 Aloha
 I have been examining the Haynes electric diagrams for my project (they suck
 by the way) and going over the existing harness.  Have also studied the
 articles in the FAQ and on other websites about the Delco conversion.
 I have a 1970 Ser IIa 88" positive ground.  The following link is a picture
 of the 'new' diagram with the delco installed.  Could someone familiar with
 the conversion take a look and let me know what they think?
 Many thanks.
 Pete
 
 >>
Unless you want to start playing with switching diodes around in the
alternator you should first switch your IIA to negative ground. This is a
simple process which i accomplished on my SIIA several years ago. As I
remember all I had to change was the position of the battery cables and the
polarity of the coil. Then install your alternator and you are home free.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:05:25 -0600
Subject: Series II Electrical Junction Box

Does anyone on the list have any sources for the round, bakelite Lucas
junction boxes used on Series IIs?  They were located on the bulkhead
around the master cylinders and patched in the wiring to the headlamps to
the main harness.  I would prefer New Old Stock if possible.  Thanks in
advance,

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:18:45 -1000
Subject: Re: Delco Alternator

> I have a 1970 Ser IIa 88" positive ground.  > 
>Unless you want to start playing with switching diodes around in the
>alternator you should first switch your IIA to negative ground. 

Doahh!!
I meant to say positive ground.  Damn I mean negative ground..
Pete

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 23:41:06
Subject: carbs.

>I am looking for your opinion on what carb gives the best overall
>performance with the least hassals. Thanks

for my money the Rochester, with some where around 44-48 size jets.

Jim Wolf

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 06:34:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Landrover Rumblings

>  next project. With the hubs out it's not bad but hubs in lot's of rumble at
> 40
>  mph and up  >>

Yup, y'all MUST have Free Wheel Hubs! Now the male-female joint
(telescopic joint) in the front prop shaft's shot. I'm not even going to
say "Told you so!" after the toasting I received on this list the last
time I railed against FWH's.

The front prop shaft is designed to rotate when the vehicle is driven,
so that when you drive over bumps the rattling and shaking is evenly
distributed over the entire circumference of the male and female
splines. As soon as you drive with your hubs unlocked, and the front
propshaft lies still the male-female joint is subjected to lots and lots
of small (sometimes not so small) hammering movements which quite
quickly deform the female spline into an elliptical shape. You don't
notice this of course, until you engage your hubs. The problem is easily
solved, but unfortunately not cheap to solve. A new (or reconditioned)
front prop shaft is in order, and to prevent re-occurrence - which is
inevitable as long as the vehicle is driven with hubs disengaged -
either keep your FWH permanently engaged or replace them with fixed
drive flanges. 

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 21:54:33
Subject: Re: Torque for suspension nuts

	I'd leave them just slightly loose for a week or two of driving so the
springs have a chance to settle in then tighten them up as John says.  
Aloha Peter

At 12:28 AM 11/16/98 +0100, you wrote:

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:05:48 +0200
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

 
> OK, I give up.  How does this @#$%i8ng thing come off?

You may find that if jerking and tugging won't work, a long constant 
pull will...  Grasp spokes, set feet firmly, and pull long and hard.  
Don't know why, but it has worked for me before.  Just look out for 
your head on the roof and the small of your back on the bulkhead 
when it lets go.

> wheel. Have not resorted to the "biggah  hammah" principal yet. 

This may be an even better option, or the big piece of wood and 
crowbar trick...

Good luck,

Andy

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From: Joost Kramer <jkramer@best.ms.philips.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 10:08:01 +0100
Subject: Camel Trophy

Hi,

At the moment the Camel Trophy is broadcasted on dutch television. It is
not a challange for those LR, but the Defenders are nicely equiped. So I
am wondering what tires are used on the defenders? The tread seems ok.
Anyone knows?

Cheers,
Joost

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From: "Bishop, Alan" <A.Bishop@worc.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 08:48:19 +0000
Subject: Still non-charging alternator.

Hi all,

Well, been playing with the S2a again to try and get it charging. 
It's getting desperate now because it's planned to be everyday 
transport from a couple of days ago!!

The alternator is turning out around 15-16 volts according to my 
meter, but there is no change in voltage to the battery with or 
without the alternator plugged in. Both large wires to the alternator
carry the full battery voltage (12.5ish at the moment) - is this 
right? I have changed the ground lead from the battery ( it 
needed doing anyway) in hope that would help, but it didn't.

The wires from the alternator disappear into the loom after about 6 
inches so are difficult to trace

HELP!!!!!!!!

TIA
Alan.

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From: peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se (Peter =?iso-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?= )
Date: 	Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:21:07 +0100
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

>> OK, I give up.  How does this @#$%i8ng thing come off?
>You may find that if jerking and tugging won't work, a long constant
>pull will...  Grasp spokes, set feet firmly, and pull long and hard.
>Don't know why, but it has worked for me before.  Just look out for
>your head on the roof and the small of your back on the bulkhead
>when it lets go.

Mine came off by banging it from behind using my hands. My nose remembers
this as well. It has now recovered to its normal color...

Peter

Dr. Peter Thoren
Department of Genetics, Uppsala University
Box 7003, S-750 07 Uppsala, Sweden
Fax +46 18 67 27 05
Tel +46 18 67 12 69, 67 26 64
e-mail: peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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