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From: TBache9248@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 06:58:42 EST
Subject: STeve Bradke

Hi All,
Is Steve out here listening?  Could you please repond directly as I would like
to ask about your suggested swivel ball o-haul.  I have purchased PC-7 and
rounded up some likely suspects and want to be sure how you went about it with
the paint and epoxy.
Thaanks,

Tom Bache

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From: alice@atd.crane.navy.mil
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 07:43:42 +0000
Subject: MiddleStatesLandRoverOwnersClub?

Hello All,
Whatever happened to the 
		"Middle States Land Rover Owners Club"?
It seems to have ...errr ...vanished.
Mark

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 08:56:55 -0400
Subject: Re: alternator wiring

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> Re: Sense wire to the main lead:
> Pardon me for saying this, but this defeats the purpose of the remote sense
> lead. You WANT the sense wire to see the voltage drop - that's what it's for.
> This allows the remote compensation for line losses, i.e.: it jacks the 
voltage
> up a bit so that the items wired to the fuseblock see an honest 13.8 - 14 
volts.
> This gets important on the cold winter nights that have heater, wipers and
> headlights on... it allows the alternator to compensate for the losses and 
still
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> headlights on... it allows the alternator to compensate for the losses and 
still
> charge the battery and operate the accessories effectively

What you say is true if the alternator out put is taken to the fuse box or buss 
bar
or what ever is used to split the power. If  as is  usually the case case the 
output
goes very close to the battery your suggestion could result in a constant slight
over charge of the battery except at times of heavy accessory use.
 However for most practical purposes it would make little difference as long as 
the
wiring and connections are in good shape.
  John and Muddy

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:18:37 -0500
Subject: Re: STeve Bradke ...Here I am 

Tom asks about repair to swivel balls;
 Here is what I did after reading a similar post from another lro awhile
back.
First remove as much of the rust from the pitts as you can, clean the
balls WELL. Wait until the wife goes to the mall...then place the balls
into a warm oven (low heat) until they warm up real good... remove them
and carefully apply JB Weld epoxy as smooth and as even as you can get
it over the pitts ( Use one of the wifes spatulas...then discard it to
get rid of the evidence) the spatula will help maintain the contour of
the swivel ball. Pop the balls back into a LOW heat oven a couple hours
to cure. remove and let cure 24 hrs. Next take a file and carefully
smooth any high edges..take your time and get it right...next wet sand
the balls with fine sandpaper being very careful to maintain the
curvature of the balls.
  Ideally what you should end up with will be JB Weld in the pitts only
and the rest smooth.
 Next use POR-15 paint.  As POR 15 is self leveling hold the ball by the
small end open end towards the floor ( Over paper if this stuff drips
you will never be able to remove it)  paint arount the small end working
your way down and let it run don the OUTSIDE, not inside of the ball.
find a place to suspend it from a wire and let it dry a couple days..
Thats what I did and it worked...
Someone else used this method and reported similer success
Any further questions get in touch and we'll talk by phone
Hope this helps
Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: "Nick Fankhauser" <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:43:58 -0500
Subject: OD interfering with hand brake

Hi Folks-

I'm trying to fit a Fairey overdrive on my 88" IIa, but the rod that the
hand brake lever connects to is in the way. The rod that I'm referring to is
the one that pivots in two brackets which are each mounted on a side frame
rail. The rod thus goes between the two frame rails. The hand lever attaches
near the middle, and a shorter lever goes to the driveshaft brake via a
linkage on the right side. It looks like the OD should fit below this rod,
but it (the brake rod) is about 1/2 inch too low. I'm in the midst of a
frame-up restoration, so the tranny & engine mounts are new. The OD was
bought used from a list member, so I don't have the original installation
manual, and only presume that I have all of the parts. If I remove the brake
pivot rod, the OD slips in nicely, with everything lined up as I expect, so
I'm at a loss...

Has anybody out there encountered this? If you having a working Fairey
overdrive, what is your clearance between these parts? Is there a different
set of brackets for the brake rod that I need to get? frustrated minds want
to know...

Thanks!
-Nick Fankhauser
'61 88 IIa (in pieces)
'67 88 IIa (Threatening to fall to pieces)
109 IIa pickup (waiting to be picked up)
County Business:             | Other Business:               |
nickf@co.wayne.in.us         | nickf@infocom.com             |
http://co.wayne.in.us        | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf |
765-973-9277 FAX 765-973-9490| 765-935-3387                  |
_____________________________|_______________________________|

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:50:31 EST
Subject: Re: OD interfering with hand brake

In a message dated 11/17/98 9:44:58 AM Eastern Standard Time,
nickf@co.wayne.in.us writes:

> It looks like the OD should fit below this rod,
>  but it (the brake rod) is about 1/2 inch too low.

You say you're doing a frame up restoration...

Which hole did you put the handbrake pivot in, upper or lower.  I'm talking
about the hole in the bracket on the side rail.  There's an upper and a lower
hole--slots really.  Maybe you've set the brake in the lower holes and need to
move them to the upper ones.

Nate

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From: "Nick Fankhauser" <nickf@co.wayne.in.us>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:51:00 -0500
Subject: Oops!!.. Just make that "me too" on the OD

I just noticed that David Hope asked the same question the day before
yesterday. Sorry about the duplication... and in partial answer to David's
question... It happened to me to, only worse, so at least you're not alone!

-Nick Fankhauser
County Business:             | Other Business:               |
nickf@co.wayne.in.us         | nickf@infocom.com             |
http://co.wayne.in.us        | http://www.infocom.com/~nickf |
765-973-9277 FAX 765-973-9490| 765-935-3387                  |
_____________________________|_______________________________|

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:54:13 -0500
Subject: Re: OD interfering with hand brake

Nick,

My OD fits just below the brake rod - no more than a half-inch or so.

I'd be tempted to think that you need to loosen the rod and shift it upward -
sounds like cumulative tolerances, or something's got the rear of the
tranny/transfer case pushed up.

Did you use real Rover mounts, or are they locally sourced?

                    ajr

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 10:20:05 -0500
Subject: Bushings

Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> wrote:

>The center tube of the bushing stands proud of the outside tube of the
>bushing.  This allows the shackle and center tube to pivot and the rubber
>of the bush to flex taking up the slight twisting motion and fore and aft
>shock.  Leaving the shackles loose will result in elongation of the bolt
>holes in the shackle and a groove being worn in the face of the shackle by
>the center tube of the bushing. 

Gotta disagree on this one, and my info comes by way of Charlie Haigh at
Rovers North...one of the most knowledgeable guys around.  Tight bushings
will result in spring and/or bushing failure.  We're not talking much
here...just enough so the shackles can move and do their job.  The whole
purpose to shackles is so they can move as the springs change length as
they flex.  For the 'fixed' end of the spring, the tightness of the bushing
is not an issue...as long as you don't tighten it until everything has been
re-installed and settled in.

What is the thickness of the rubber inside a bushing?  1/4 or maybe 3/8"??
If the center sleve is bound up by the spring, that linear motion of the
spring is going to be converted into rotatary motion at the bushing.  If
the shackle moves an inch or so, that is more than enough to eviscerate the
bushing in short order.

As for elongating the shackle holes, that could only happen on the
non-threaded side, but then the bolt head should prevent most movement that
is not rotational along the axis.  Again, we're just talking enough so that
the shackles can move, not flog about.  And of course, everything should be
liberally coated with anti-seize.

Many years ago (at the last RN rally in Vermont) I was going to complain to
Mark about the premature failure of my recently purchased springs.  He got
about ten feet away from the vehicle and said, "Tight bushings, eh?"
Yup...they were (I didn't know any better at the time) and that led to
their premature demise.  I can only think that with the parabolic springs,
the bushing tightness issue will be even more important.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 09:37:44 -0600
Subject: Series II junction box again

I'll try this again.  I'm still looking for a replacement junction box for
my Series II.  This is the little, round bakelite electrical connection box
located on either the left or right kick panel (depending on whether the
vehicle is LHD or RHD).  It has a round cover with the wording "Lucas
Birmingham" on it.  It routes the wiring from the main harness to the
headlamps, etc.  Lucas number is LU 87266A, Land Rover Part No. 03971.  I'd
like a new old stock piece if possible.  Supposedly this junction was also
used on early Big Healeys though I haven't been able to confirm this.  If
you know of a source, please let me know.  Thanks in advance,

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor"

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 16:39:04 +0100
Subject: Heavy duty chassis?

Hello,

is there anyone out there who can tell me how to recognize a SIII
heavy duty chassis. Since they were offered in th LRO the should 
exist, i'm currently working on an ex military SIII from 1975, ex 
belgium army an I just wondered if they might be fitted out with one 
of the legendary "Heavy duty" chassis.  The rear beam is square as is 
the case on the lightweight, for the rest they look all original. 
However the car is quite heavy, 1440 Kg, of course also due to the 24 
Volt generator and electric set-up.

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 10:50:37 EST
Subject: Re: Series II junction box again

In a message dated 98-11-17 10:36:58 EST, you write:

<< I'll try this again.  I'm still looking for a replacement junction box for
 my Series II.  This is the little, round bakelite electrical connection box
 located on either the left or right kick panel (depending on whether the
 vehicle is LHD or RHD).  It has a round cover with the wording "Lucas
 Birmingham" on it.  It routes the wiring from the main harness to the
 headlamps, etc.  Lucas number is LU 87266A, Land Rover Part No. 03971.  I'd
 like a new old stock piece if possible.  Supposedly this junction was also
 used on early Big Healeys though I haven't been able to confirm this.   >>

Brian,

If you can't find a new one, and if it was in fact used in big Healeys, try
Peter's Marina Motors in Venice, Ca. (petrova@loop.com, or
www.englishcars.com). He originally restored big Healeys for a living, until
he discovered how easy it is to work on a Land Rover.

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 11:00:24 EST
Subject: Re: Heavy duty chassis?

Huub,

You didn't say wether or not your truck was a 109, or an 88" chassis, BUT -
you have the square beam at the rear - which (unless somebody has replaced it)
would normally indicate a heavy-duty (or, military, or N.A.T.O. ) chassis.

The other main differences are:

taller spring shackles

height-adjustable spring mounting points

(possibly - though I've never seen one) gearbox restraint bolted to
bellhousing

square bumperettes on rear beam, enclosing lifting  rings

cutout on engine crossmember, to give clearance for front driveshaft.

Being that you have a 24-volt system, most likely you have a FFR truck (fitted
For Radio), and thus, you probably do have the heavier chassis, since those
12-foot tall radio masts added lots of weight.

Charles

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 17:55:34 +0100
Subject: Re: Heavy duty chassis?

Hello Charles,

it is an ex army '88 (Belgium)

And the square beam at the rear  is all original  which   
indicates a  military chassis.

There are no taller spring shackles, no
height-adjustable spring mounting points, but there is a gearbox 
restraint bolted to bellhousing and square bumperettes on rear beam 
which  enclosing lifting  rings.

I am not aware of the cutout on engine crossmember, to give clearance 
for front driveshaft (it is a 4x2, all original )

And the gearbox crossmember is removable as well.

So, is that what it makes a heavy duty chassis, is the thickness 
of the steel different from the civilian (normal) chassis?

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 98 11:51:32 -0500
Subject: Re: OD interfering with hand brake 

>Has anybody out there encountered this? If you having a working Fairey 
>overdrive, what is your clearance between these parts? Is there a different 
>set of brackets for the brake rod that I need to get? frustrated minds want 
>to know...

ok kids, here's the skinny on this one.

LR built these vehicles by hand. no two are the same. one thing they ALL have 
in common, in the States anyway, is that they were all built before the OD was 
produced. RHD trucks don't have the x-shaft for the handbrake. OD was built in 
the uk, where they are almost all rhd. not much consideration was likely given 
to the LHD situation. SO...some of you will find you have an inch or more of 
clearnace between the x-shaft and the OD cover. others will have negative 
clearance. Mine was close enough that it was hitting the x-shaft and pounding 
the little cotter pin breather flat. eventually the cotter pin would have 
fallen into the hole...so...I removed the x-shaft, drilled two new holes 1/2" 
or so lower than the original ones. Put it all back together, re-adjusted the 
handbrake (actually I skipped this step, but don't blame me if *you* skip it 
and it don't work) and Bob was, therefore, my uncle. The plate with the ratchet 
teeth for the handbrake lever was made of some hard shit which drilled nicely 
only when heated to a soft red glow...

The other way to do this is to cut the x-shaft and weld in an offset to clear 
the OD. Or cut the mounts off the frame and make them an inch or so higher. 

BTW for anyone who cares, my OD blew its main seal this summer...ran it out of 
oil...its true what they say...killed it big time and quick...just got done 
pulling it apart...all black and blue inside...looking for one with stripped 
splines but otherwise ok...anybody got one?

later
daveb/greenHELL (now even more HELLish)
arlington VA

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 98 12:01:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Bushings 

>>Gotta disagree on this one, and my info comes by way of Charlie Haigh at 

dudes. get a grip.

tighten the shackles the way it says in *the book*. drive around the block to 
settle the springs.

tighten the bolts to the specified torque setting

tighten the nuts to the specified torque setting.

now you are done. don't worry. be happy...

if you tighten them BEFORE you settle the springs then you will ruin either the 
spring or the bushing. I am sure there is some movement of both parts here, but 
the metal parts WILL wear if they move against each other...its the law...

go ahead and ask charlie...

later
daveb

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 10:23:39 -0700
Subject: Re: alternator wiring 

Alan writes:
<<Joseph details a lengthy procedure for starting a Rover:

Are you sure this isn't the mythical Wright R-1340  DC-3 conversion
installed in
a Series IIa? Sure sounds like the game of musical chairs i've seen when people
start radial engines.....8*)>>

Shhhhh! Let's keep this quiet, eh?

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 08:12:20
Subject: Re: Bushings, is tight right!!!

	Well, my experience has been just the opposite.  I've run the bolts 
tight
and my bushings have lasted many 10's of thousands of miles and the springs
have not failed.  I switched to parabolics because I wanted the improvement
in the ride.  The car had a list to the right when I purchased it 14 years
ago.  I'd switched a very ratty, severely rust pitted, piece of junk spring
from my parts car to see if that would cure the list.  It did but after
40,000 miles (90,000+ cumulative) the rust quit holding it together and a
couple of leaves failed, strangely it ran for many thousands of miles with
at least two leaves broken.  That's the only spring that I've had a problem
with and it was a problem before I installed it.  If you look at the
shackle in relation to the bushing, you can see that a two or three inch
horizontal deflection of the shackle is only a few degree circular
rotation.  If it was significant rotational motion, a bearing would be
needed.  So there is not much rotational stress on the rubber, which I
assume it was designed to take.  All my bushings have failed because the
rubber became ovalized from constant deflection along one axis.  Most of
the pressure on the bushing is parallel to the shackle and eventually
causes the rubber to migrate/wear out along this axis.  Doesn't appear to
have had anything to do with rotational stress.
	If you think about breaking springs.  I see no way this could happen
because of the bolt being too tight.  Even if the rubber in the bush
disappeared.  I've been too lazy to replace a failed bush right away and it
didn't do anything except cause a bit of clunking.  I'm sure the bushes
have some shock dissipating effect for the springs but would think they are
more to stop transfer of shock to the frame and then along to the
passenger.  Other wise, they are more for creature comfort than saving the
springs.
	As far as eviscerated bushings.  I've changed all the bushings once 
since
I bought the car.  I drove it for 10 years without a speedometer, ran
through a set of radial tires, a set of bias ply tires and have another
30,000 miles since I replaced the speedo cable so estimate I've put close
to 100,000 miles on it, not including the indicated 53,000 miles that it
had when I purchased it with the non functioning speedometer.  I replaced
the bushings as they failed so don't know the exact mileage or time they
have on them but most were replaced quite a few years ago, so most of my
bushings have a few miles on them.  All were in good condition when I put
the parabolics on.  
	If the center sleeve was not proud of the outer sleeve, I could see some
problems.  In that case the shackle could lock up against he outer sleeve
and/or the frame and cause the shackle to freeze in position.  This would
put a lot of strain on everything and would cause problems you have alluded
to.  They are purposely designed to allow some space, however, so this
won't happen unless the inner sleeve gets worn down or is manufactured with
the wrong tolerances and the shackle bolt is run down REAL tight without
the necessary clearance in the sleeve.  
	The 88 is my daily driver.  Many of my miles are highway but I do some 
4wd
every day.  I live two miles down an unimproved lava road (trail would be a
better description) and use the truck for my coffee farm.  The truck has
not had an easy life but keeps on chugging (most of the time, and I will
get the 5 main bearing engine running before Thanksgiving, thanks Bill L.).
 I don't do any max articulation rock crawling but do give the suspension
some pretty consistent work outs
	I would think twice before running the shackle bolts loose.  Especially
loose enough to allow the shackles to pivot side to side at all.  This may
be a matter of semantics on what loose is but I haven't had any problems
with my definition of tight which is the max arm force applied with a
normal 1/2" drive ratchet by a 50 year old man.  My parts car did have the
shackles bolts run loose and it destroyed 3 out of 8 shackles by elongating
the holes in much less than 50,000 miles.   
Aloha Peter

At 10:20 AM 11/17/98 -0500, you wrote:

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 14:04:22 EST
Subject: Re: Heavy duty chassis?

In a message dated 98-11-17 11:56:32 EST, you write:

<< So, is that what it makes a heavy duty chassis, is the thickness 
 of the steel different from the civilian (normal) chassis?
 >>

Good question: I have pieces of both in my backyard, but they appear to be
about the same thickness...any takers in this department?

Charles

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 14:08:05 EST
Subject: Re: Heavy duty chassis?

Footnote:

Not all military Land Rovers have the heavy/military/NATO chassis.

South Africa (as an example) usually had trucks equipped with the standard
item (such as mine, Lawrence's - formerly of BP, and that gentleman in
Twentynine Palms), as were some of the Royal Army vehicles.

Charles
P.S....maybe next year I'll have one...

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From: Christopher Bokhart <cbokhart@ipcgroup.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 14:22:45 -0600
Subject: Tire Chains

With winter around the corner, I am starting to think about getting my IIA 88 
ready for some fun in the snow.  I called RN to ask for their recommendation as 
to what type of tire chains they recommend and they suggested a set that sells 
for more than $500.  Needless to say I passed.  

Does anyone have any recommendations that don't require a second mortgage?

Chris Bokhart
Chicago

                                                                                
                 

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 15:53:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Tire Chains

JC Whitney. You're in Chicago fer chrissakes. Sheesh.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 08:13:02 +1000
Subject: Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly (at all!)

the following applies to negative earth - if you are positive earth just
read it the same way but swap the + and -s

the wire from the alternator (+ when working/spinning) should run to the
ignition switch (+ when turned on), then when you turn on the ignition
there is a voltage difference through the 'dead' alternator, when the
alternator starts to produce little lucasses (+) the polarity is equalised
and the light goes off - simple  :-)

From: "Todd Ondick" <tondick@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 11:10:01 PST
Subject: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly
Howdy everyone-
I've just installed a delco 3-wire alternator on place of a motorola
unit (one of many SPOTs) on my '65 88 (- earth).  The wiring loom looked
as though it had been attacked by an army of crimp-connector wielding
gremlins.  Hence, no leads to the ammeter and no (absent) charge warning
light. I ran the main alt. feed straight to the battery and  the red
sense lead to the starter switch; I believe this will work.  It is the
warning light feed that I had trouble with.  I ran this wire to a light
to achieve the required resistance and then to ground... bad news.  The
charge light came on all right and got brighter as rpms increased.  I
switched the lamp from ground to switched + on the  ignition, lamp works
as it should...  Only now the engine won't start.  I left the warning
light feed connected in the former manner for 8 hrs. or so before
switching it.  Yes the battery was connected.  Now to my question -
could the grounding of the new warning light feed part of the switched
power circuit causing the coil to burn out?  Any suggestions?

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 08:19:55 +1000
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

a simpler one can be made (particularly if a welder is not available) by
just drilling two holes in a small plate which line up with the treaded
holes in the stearing wheel, slacken the nut right off and place a spacer
on the end of the shaft, another nut will do, then thread two appropriate
sized bolts through the hole in the plate and into the threaded holes in
the stearing wheel, it will slowly pull off.  You may have to slacken off a
couple of times and place in another spacer or two.

A little bit fiddly but works fine with minimal cost or hassle

(don't 'twist' too hard into the steering wheel or try to pull with less
than about 5 threads into the wheel as its only alloy and you may strip the
threads)

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 09:15:22 -1000
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal
John and Muddy recomended a flat bar and some threaded rod and build your
own puller.  I had an 18" piece of angle stock lating about.  Drilled a
hole
in it.  Welded a 1/2 nut on the bar.  But the bar under the steering wheel.
Lined up the hole with the steering shaft.  Ran a piece of threaded rod in,
pulled het right out.  No marks on the wheel.  No major injuries.  Course
this was much better then the "yank hard" method as my bulkhead is
currently
in the garage, the rest of the vehicle is in bits in the storage shed,
rolling chassis under a tarp in the driveway.
Pete

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 08:25:04 +1000
Subject: Re: put a fusible link in the line to the battery??????????

I think if you do this and the fuse blows the alternator will blow the
diodes - I think, not a very good idea

I think that normally this is just a direct unfused line

Just my opinion, I could be wrong too!!!!!!

richard

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 16 Nov 1998 16:40:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Joe Lucas wasn't at fault here... not directly
Re: Fused or unfused:
I'd do two things, meself.
First, put the alternator to the unfused side.
Second, put a fusible link in the line to the battery. This way, if things
go
seriously pear-shaped, you have a chance of not owning a flambeed dessert
on
wheels...
A fusible link is typically 6 inches of wire, two gauges smaller than the
wire
you're protecting. Hence, a 10-gauge wire would have a 12-gauge link and so
forth. Considering how folks overwire these things, I might go 3 gauges
smaller
and accept the risk of heavy loads taking out the fusible link over time.
That's
what spares are for...
                         ajr

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From: "Damon Schimming" <DamonKC@email.msn.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 15:29:59 -0600
Subject: Honduran Aid Expedition Update

For those that may have an interest, but haven't responded as of yet, here
is the latest update sent out to all of the current team members regarding
the trip we are planning next June.

Things have been progressing very smoothly over the past several weeks. We
now have over 30 interested individuals on the list, including (but not
limited to) a dentist, a physician, and a hearing specialist. The vehicles
(not everyone has given this to me yet) include 13 D90's, 2 D110's, 9
Discovery's, 5 Range Rovers and 1 Series III. While the doctors will be a
very visible part of the team, we will all have an important role to play in
providing aid. If you have a talent that you feel could be useful and
haven't already made me aware of it, please do so right away. After my call
to the Honduran Consulate, I'm certain that we will be well received. Oh,
today I even received a note from a professional bush pilot that wants to
donate his services for the trip. Is it just me, or is this starting to
sound like an invasion force?

In Honduras, the emergency phase of relief is still underway, but the aid is
reaching the needy according to the relief agencies. The Consulate General
was very appreciative of our plan to assist and will be very helpful in
coordinating our expedition. She said that most people focus on the
immediate needs, but once that is over the real work will begin. They are
working with several volunteer groups to coordinate trips next year. Also,
she said that there will be several agencies providing training and
materials for rebuilding and town relocation.

As far a paperwork goes, we will all need current passports. Make sure that
they do not expire while we are there and preferably have more than one year
left. There will be no need for visas, as we are allowed to spend up to 30
days in Honduras without one. You will also need to be able to provide
documentation to prove the ownership of your vehicles. Also, I'm pretty sure
all drivers will need an international drivers license, but I haven't been
able to verify this yet. By the next update I'll have this answered, as well
as the vaccination and medical requirements. I'll be working with AAA to
receive information on auto insurance as a group, but in the meantime you
might contact your individual companies and ask "What if.....?"

We have a volunteer working on a web site for us and he feels confidant that
we can get free hosting. Tim Harinear is also developing software that will
allow the web site to be updated day-by-day with digital pictures and text.
If anyone has access to a digital camera, please let me know. I'd like to
come up with a name for the expedition and would encourage those with ideas
to contact me right away. Tim also has some fellow Rover types who are
graphic artists working to provide an eye catching site in order to
encourage corporate sponsorship.

I'n spoken with several shippers and have found there is no ferry at this
time, but in the next few months the service is expected to start again. I
will be receiving more information on the service once it's activated. There
are several companies that will ship the trucks in containers and then we
can fly down to meet them in four days time, if needed. Actually, this may
be a good alternative to those in the northwest. On the east coast, you can
transport you truck via the Autotrain (AMTRAK) from Lorton, VA to Sanford,
FL. The cost is $219 for the truck and $110 per person and takes 16 hours. I
can't find ferry service from Florida, but will continue to search. You will
probably have to drive to Texas or ship via container from Florida.

Here's a list of what I need from EVERYONE that is considering being part of
the expedition:

Name/Age/Address/Phone of Driver(s)

Name/Age/Address of all Passenger(s)

Year/Model of Land Rover you will be taking to Honduras

Tire Size/Brand/Model/Type

Mileage/Condition of Truck

Winch?/Moto Weld?/Power Supply?

GPS?/HAM?/CB?

Do you speak any Spanish? If yes, how well?

Any experience travelling in Central America/Mexico? If yes, elaborate.

On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being highest), what is you potential
interest/availability to go?

On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being highest), how would you rate your off road
experience?

On a scale of 1 - 10 (10 being highest), how would you rate your physical
health and the health of each of your passengers?

Do you, or any of your passengers, suffer from any allergies or allergic
reactions to medication?
If so list by name.

Are you, or any of the passengers, currently receiving any medical
treatments or taking any prescription medication? If yes, elaborate.

After reaching Port Isabel, or outbound port, how long can you spend in
Honduras before returning to the port? (i.e. 1 week, 2 week..etc.)

What is your occupation? How do you feel you could help?

Would you be opposed to camping?

If applicable, what is your religious affiliation?

Well, that's about it for now.

Later,

Damon
'93 D110
'95 D90 SW

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 16:32:35 EST
Subject: Re: put a fusible link in the line to the battery??????????

In a message dated 11/17/98 4:28:08 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au writes:

> I think if you do this and the fuse blows the alternator will blow the
>  diodes - I think, not a very good idea
>  I think that normally this is just a direct unfused line
>  Just my opinion, I could be wrong too!!!!!!

I think one would be alerted to the fuse blowing because the charge light
would come on brightly.

Nicht wahr?

Nate

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 22:50:13 -0000
Subject: test please ignore
	charset="iso-8859-1"

I did say ignore didn't I?
Best Cheers

Frank
    +--+--+--+           
     I !__|  [_]|_\___  
     I ____|"_|"__|_ | /     B791 PKV
     "(o)=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D(o)"    Bronze Green 110 CSW

------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BE127C.A3774560
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 30 lines.]	

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From: pete.c88@juno.com (peter j cosmides)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 20:20:29 +0000
Subject: TORO Overdrive diagram

Someone on the list recently was looking for an exploded diagram for the
Toro overdrive, though I can't track down who.....if you are still
interested, contact me, as I have what you need along with other
pertinant info on the Toro that I will be glad to mail to you.

Cheers,

Peter Cosmides     Moorestown, NJ
1973 Land Rover 88" SW
1988 Range Rover
1975 MGB....original owner
1966 MG 1100  Sportsedan

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

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From: pete.c88@juno.com (peter j cosmides)
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 20:17:28 +0000
Subject: WANTED  rear Series jumpseats

Greetings,
I am looking for a pair of good condition, individual rear folding seats
for my '73 88".......I have 2 very good bench seats to trade if wanted or
will pay cash..
Any leads would be appreciated.

Reply to me at (609) 778-3695 or pcosmides@juno.com
Thanks
Pete
Peter Cosmides     Moorestown, NJ
1973 Land Rover 88" SW
1988 Range Rover
1975 MGB....original owner
1966 MG 1100  Sportsedan

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 21:03:43 EST
Subject: Re: test please ignore

In a message dated 11/17/98 4:11:26 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk writes:

<< I did say ignore didn't I?
 Best Cheers
 
 Frank >>

Hey! Frank's got a new ISP!

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 21:25:16 EST
Subject: Re: Series II junction box again

In a message dated 98-11-17 10:36:58 EST, you write:

 I'll try this again.  I'm still looking for a replacement junction box for
 my Series II.  This is the little, round bakelite electrical connection box
 located on either the left or right kick panel (depending on whether the
 vehicle is LHD or RHD).  It has a round cover with the wording "Lucas
 Birmingham" on it.  It routes the wiring from the main harness to the
 headlamps, etc.  Lucas number is LU 87266A, Land Rover Part No. 03971.  I'd
 like a new old stock piece if possible.  Supposedly this junction was also
 used on early Big Healeys though I haven't been able to confirm this.  If
 you know of a source, please let me know.  Thanks in advance,
  >>
I have a SI which uses this little item. I have never seen anything like it on
an Austin Healey although it may show up on some of Donald's earlier
creations. If that's the case it probably won't help your search. Does the
term "hen's teeth " mean anything to you?

Good hunting

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 19:32:47 -0700
Subject: What am I Seeing???

Hey All,

What am i seeing???

It appears that Atlantic British is in the JeepGear buisness! I just
went to their site and found nothing but jeep shit for sale!

What's going on? I thought the british flag and the parts catalogues I
got meant LR stuff!!!

John

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 19:35:33 -0700
Subject: Re: TORO Overdrive diagram

Dear Peter,

I'm not sure if I'm the one you are reffering to, I did ask if anyone had
access to the plans or specs on the overdrives a few weeks ago.
If you have info along these lines please do mail them on to me.

John Wood
609 Collyer St.
Longmont, CO 80501
303/774-9225

THanks,

John

peter j cosmides wrote:

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 19:36:11 -0800
Subject: Re: Zenith starting trouble

Steve Mace wrote:

>  I had the problem when I was using a K&N filter.
> Changed back to the old oil-bath and the problem went
> away.

Ah... not so simple in my case unfortunately... I'm still using the oil bath
filter :(

Jeremy

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 22:31:21 EST
Subject: Re: OD interfering with hand brake

In a message dated 98-11-17 12:07:06 EST, you write:

 The other way to do this is to cut the x-shaft and weld in an offset to clear
 the OD. Or cut the mounts off the frame and make them an inch or so higher. 
  >>
 
   Dave
  Why not just drill new holes in the mounting bracket?  No need to remove and
re-weld.  Are you one of those guys who loves to play with torches?

Enzo - By the way, my OD fits nicely under the cross-shaft.  The whole thing's
just slicker'n shit!
   

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From: SFmms@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 22:36:46 EST
Subject: Message for Brent Lane, LR content

Hi:

I am trying to pass a message along from Don Vangelderen to Brent Lane re:
Brent's request to order a Series LR mainshaft nut tool. Don has been trying
to get in touch with Brent at a couple of 619 area code numbers with no luck.
Don does not have an Internet connection, so I am doing this as a favor to
him. He can be reached at his shop at (818) 998-6036 or by FAX at (818)
996-6424. If anyone can pass this along to Brent, I would appreciate it.
 
For general information: Don is a machinist who I arranged to make the
mainshaft nut tool based on a drawing fromn Kelly Minnick for myself. Don has
been sellling the tools for $ 45 plus shipping last I heard. 

Regards,

Karen Sindir
'74 SIII 88 Red Rufy - with overdrive, hence the need for the tool.
'95 Disco EFE

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 20:51:35 -0800
Subject: Re: What am I Seeing???

Wake up John, it's all just a bad dream! You're back in Moab now with
your dog Toto, and your trusty 109 diesel. What ever you've been
drinking or smoking, please pass it to the rest of us. All I see there
are Rover parts. Your computer must have caught a nasty jeep virus or
something.
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab sporting a Beaver

K. John Wood wrote:

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 23:04:52 EST
Subject: Re: What am I Seeing???

In a message dated 11/17/98 9:37:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, jwrover@colo-
net.com writes:

<< It appears that Atlantic British is in the JeepGear buisness! I just
 went to their site and found nothing but jeep shit for sale! >>

Just checked...

Looks like they have 2 sites:  one for jeep stuff (www.jeepgear.com) and one
for LR stuff (www.roverparts.com)

Hate to see a parts supplier go away...I'll call them tomorrow and find out
the poop.

Nate

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From: Gregg Siegfried <grs@claircom.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 20:05:59 -0800
Subject: 101FCs for sale

I have two 101FC's for sale as a package.
The first is #95600016A, a pre-production example
with many prototype parts on it. RHD, 12v, GS w/winch.
Needs restoration, but is complete.  Does not run.

The second is a LHD, 12v, GS w/o winch.  Rolled many years
ago, but has been well preserved since.  Makes an excellent parts
doner for vehicle #1 restoration project.
Many spare parts are included with this package.

Selling because I found the time I could dedicate to the project
limited, and 16A really deserves to be returned to service.

$10k for the pair.
For more details contact Gregg Siegfried at grs@claircom.com or
206-389-7192.

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From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 23:52:42 -0500
Subject: Re: Zenith starting trouble

Well, judging by a few of the replies to my Zenith starting problem, I'm not the
only one with this ailment. I guess the only thing to do is as Jeremy suggests
and check the float level. I'm also still using the oil bath filter so the
problem that Steve Mace had with the K&N isn't causing me my grief. Just keep at
it I guess.

Thanks guys

Brett

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 19:13:09 -1000
Subject: Re: TORO Overdrive diagram

Peter,
If no one else has offered.  I can scan the stuff and place on my server.
Pete
>Someone on the list recently was looking for an exploded diagram for the
>Toro overdrive, though I can't track down who.....if you are still
>interested, contact me, as I have what you need along with other
>pertinant info on the Toro that I will be glad to mail to you.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 22:33:43 +1100
Subject: Rover Wiring

>what gauge is the wiring in the rover?  It looks like 14.  Was
thinking of
>using a generic fuse box and running 12 gauge.
TeriAnn wrote:

:>I think they used three gauges of wire in the series wiring harness.
>They do not use the gauge system.

I'm not sure how auto electricians rate automotive wire.  But us in
the electronics game rate it by no. of strands and the diameter of
each wire in the strand, e.g. 7/0036 = 7 strands of .0036" diameter
wire.

Ron

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 06:48:50 -0500
Subject: Re: put a fusible link in the line to the battery??????????

Re: Fusible link:

Inadvertently, i ran one on the test bench this way (under load) for a few
hours.

Ran fine, but wouldn't energize with the leads disconnected.

So, if you were running it would be OK (and would still charge), but wouldn't
start charging if shut off and restarted.

               ajr

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