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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 07:41:45 EST
Subject: Re: BOOK

In a message dated 11/13/98 11:22:50 PM Eastern Standard Time,
J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net writes:

 You haven't become a turn coat have you?
  >>

Hate to burst the bubble, but Jim works with many 4X4 models.  In fact, I see
him posting more regularly to the classic Jeep mailing list than to here.  Of
course, the classic Jeep list is much more serious...these folks are into
complete original restorations of old (Willys) Jeeps. Repro parts are a no-no.

FYI, I'm on that list too.  Got an old Willys Jeepster (1948) which is also in
the process of a rebuild.

Nate

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 20:52:28 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Alloy

 Birmabright II........Cu. 1.0......Mn.1.5......Mg.1.0 to 6.0.........Si.
0.7.............Ni.1.5...Cr.0.5.......Ultimate tensile strenght  11 tons /
sq.in. Good luck........I`ve never been able to locate anything close in the
Atlas alloys book.

> Anyone know the Alum. Alloy code for "brimabright"?  I am looking at getting
> a sheet to do some repairs and fabricating a radio/cb rack.  I want to make
> sure the new sheet is compatable for welding.  That way I can do some
> practing on the scraps before I try the real thing.  Also I do not have a
> mic, what gauge are Series LR bodies?
> Mahalo
> Pete

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 98 06:23:03 -0800
Subject: RE: Alternate Powerplants

>I've been driving my (mostly) '67 IIa since 1982...mostly. During this
>time, I've been mulling over the question: what shall I re-power this
;>beast with should the need arise? And, as it happens, the need has
;>arisen and I'm a hair's bredth away from dropping a stage II rotary
;>engine into Thisbe, my (sometimes affectionate) pet name for the beast.
;>Actually, the swap is probably a few years off, but I'm planning ahead.

;>When I mention this to other local LR owners, all but two cringe at the
;>thought. So let me put this question to the list: wouldn't a naturally
;>aspiriated, pint-sized, light-weight, hi-revving, mid-powered engine be
;>a perfect LR powerplant?

I can not give you a opinion but I could ask a question or two.  Where is 
peak torque and how wide/flat is the torque curve?  Where do you drive 
the car?

If it is a daily driver almost 100% on pavment or maintained roads it 
might be a good choice.

If off roading in mountains, sand, mud & rock crawling is important to 
you...the torque curve should be very important.

As near as I have been able to deturmine peak torque should be around 
1500 - 2200 RPM.  The curve should be as level as possible and wide. If 
the curve for your intended engine is too sharp you will encounter 
nothing but problems under heavy off road use.  This is evidently the 
problem in the 2.5L BMW diesel used in the European Range Rovers. But 
that engine makes for a good flat land/tarmac car.

Only you can say what your use is and if the engine is appropriate for 
your use.

Good luck on whatever you decide.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 07:26:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Diamond Edition Defender

Amazing, our local dealership was selling two at the same time.  One for
$48,000, the other for $45,000.  Didn't check into what additional options
were on them, but didn't appear to have much on the outside.  The one for
$45,000 is still on their lot.

At 11:22 PM 11/13/98 EST, you wrote:
>$40,600 was list

Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW
'93 D110

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:24:03 -0500
Subject: Web site

I've updated my web site... and moved to Geocities... here is my Land Rover
Page...

http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Station/8098/land.htm	

I would like to make the links section a good reference for others looking
for LRinfo.... for this purpose I would welcome any list of lists that you
could have for me to add to this site... I would like to have it searchable
by keyworks... sort of like altavista... but only LR stuff... I have a
gotten space on a special server in Canada with a database engine and a
search engine and this is where it would go...  Any way, what I'm looking
for are links (name and URL) and a short description if available.

Thanks 
             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: grs@spite.eng.claircom.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 98 09:12 PST
Subject: Re: Diamond Edition Defender

Interestingly, the Land Rover display at the Seattle auto show (going on
this weekend) has one of the diamond edition D90s for sale for $46K.

I think it is a customer car, as I recall both Seattle dealerships selling
their original allocation fairly rapidly.  It was off the ground in one of
those faux rock climbing displays so I could not see what the mileage was.
I was kind of irritated that they had the D90 in the booth when, of course,
they are not available except on the used market... But, got to mantain that
"rugged" appearance.

None of the other vehicles in the booth would be of interest to this
particular mailing list.

Gregg Siegfried
grs@claircom.com

> Those vehicles sold of the lot for $40K plus or minus the taxes. For one in
> excellent physical shape, having never been "off-road" with 5K miles on it
> you could expect to pay as much as "full price as new".

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 22:08:34 -0800
Subject: Re: Installing a Weber

I was plagued (and consequently plaugued the list) with a dieseling
("running on")problem until I installed the shut-off solenoid in the weber
34 ICH.  Is this the Weber you bought?  Or did you get the two bbl?

bboT

At 11:25 PM 11/13/98 -0500, you wrote:

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 09:41:19 -1000
Subject: Re: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

>Sounds like you need to go looking for those hulks they were discussing
here a
>while back. Might save a lot of time, work, $ etc.

I agree, how ever they are on other islands.  We discussed the idea but
flying over, renting a room if there is no Guest Quarters available, rent a
car, then taking the time needed to track down owners and purchase the
hulks, have them towed to a shipper, shipped, and then towed back to my
house seems like an ordeal.
If it was only some small parts that could be disassembled and thrown into a
duffle bag it would be no problem.
I still have in my head to take a couple of days and get over to Maui, but
it probably will not happen until after the holidays.
Aloha
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 09:43:43 -1000
Subject: Re: Aluminum Alloy

>> Anyone know the Alum. Alloy code for "brimabright"?  I am looking at
getting
>> a sheet to do some repairs and fabricating a radio/cb rack.
> Birmabright II........Cu. 1.0......Mn.1.5......Mg.1.0 to 6.0.........Si.
>0.7.............Ni.1.5...Cr.0.5.......Ultimate tensile strenght  11 tons /
>sq.in. Good luck........I`ve never been able to locate anything close in
the

Has anyone ever had any luck welding brimabright?  Or does everyone just
order replacement panels when they need something fixed?
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 09:49:51 -1000
Subject: Rover Wiring

Aloha,
what gauge is the wiring in the rover?  It looks like 14.  Was thinking of
using a generic fuse box and running 12 gauge.
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 09:51:46 -1000
Subject: Bulkhead Blueprints

Aloha,
does anyone have access to the blue prints/shop diagrams used to build the
bulkheads on a IIa?
I have seen a couple of exploded diagrams in parts books but nothing
detailed.
Thanks
Pete

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 09:10:28 -0000
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

I had the Rover 2.2 TC (twin-carb) engine in my Lightweight. It was a flyer
on tarmac but rubbish off road because of the high revving and lack of
lowdown torque.
Not the way to go for an off-roader.
Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+
            I !__|  [_]|_\___
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 03:34:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Alloy

Yes. I welded in patches in the sides and rear bed of Murphy where the steel
brackets rotted the ally. Mig welder.Take your time and use heat soak compound
to dissipate the heat. I also put reinforcing plates below the hole and then
fitted a piece into the recess.I used pieces of old panels that I had lying
about. You have to clean them completely and use a stainless steel wire brush.

> the
> Has anyone ever had any luck welding brimabright?  Or does everyone just
> order replacement panels when they need something fixed?
> Pete

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 16:50:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring

Peter Hope wrote:

> Aloha,
> what gauge is the wiring in the rover?  It looks like 14.  Was thinking of
> using a generic fuse box and running 12

It never does any harm to run a little heavier wires. You  would be well
advised to track down a bunch of different colours though. One 88 I aquired
and ran for a while looked  like a nest of red octopuses (octopi) and was a
nightmare to fix any electrical problems of which there were many due to
afore- mentioned octopus.
  John and Muddy

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:04:27 -1000
Subject: Re: Aluminum Alloy

>> Has anyone ever had any luck welding brimabright?
>> Pete

>Yes. I welded in patches in the sides and rear bed of Murphy where the
>> Pete
steel
>brackets rotted the ally. Mig welder.

Did you have a spool head attachment for your mig or were you able to feed
the alum wire of the reel in the box?  And do you still use argon with alum?
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 11:18:16 -1000
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

>> what gauge is the wiring in the rover?  It looks like 14.  Was thinking
of
>> using a generic fuse box and running 12
>It never does any harm to run a little heavier wires. You  would be well
>advised to track down a bunch of different colours though. One 88 I aquired
>and ran for a while looked  like a nest of red octopuses (octopi) and was a
>nightmare to fix any electrical problems of which there were many due to
>afore- mentioned octopus.
>  John and Muddy

Thanks John.
Radio Shack carries different colored spools of wire.  I was going to try
and stick to the color pattern that is in my Hayne manual as closely as
possible.  In a couple of places I have made some changes.  Basically I want
to have each circut on its own fuse and with a seperate color.  I am
planning on adding some aditional driving lights as well as a rear work
light, plus the wiring for the radios.
When I disassembled the project I found a couple of spots where the existing
harness had chaffed and shorted.  This had been replaced by running new
wires, totally by-passing the affected systems.  Looks like this had been
done a couple of times and caused further problems each time.  I know that
after Wayne purchased the vehicle he had problems with the ammeter not
working properly.  I found out it was becasue the power to the ammeter had
been tapped at one point for the tail lights.
Because of the additional lights I was also thinking about adding a larger
alternator.  I have read the article on this subject at:
http://www.thelen.org/IIAAlternator.html
and still have a question or three.  The Delco alternators have an internal
regulator right?
The above article mentions shorting out the stock LR regulator, couldn't
this just be bypassed all together?
If so has anyone done it and pass their ideas along?
Thanks
Pete

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 16:39:58 EST
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

In a message dated 11/14/98 4:20:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
phope@hawaii.rr.com writes:

<< The above article mentions shorting out the stock LR regulator, couldn't
 this just be bypassed all together?
 If so has anyone done it and pass their ideas along?
 Thanks
 Pete >>

Check out Al Richer's article on this subject at the LR FAQ.  Talks about
this.

Nate

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 16:52:14 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

On Sat, 14 Nov 1998, Peter Hope wrote:

:Radio Shack carries different colored spools of wire.  I was going to try

British Wiring in Olympia Fields, IL sell wire in the proper Lucas colors,
some of which I haven't seen at Rat Shack or the like. They even sell
cloth-covered wire, if you get into that sort of thing. They also sell
complete wiring looms; I am led to believe that among their customers are
some of the North American Land-Rover parts houses.  Their prices make
that seem possible.

:and still have a question or three.  The Delco alternators have an internal
:regulator right?

The ones you should be putting on do.  There are some that are not.  I was
given one by the place I bought mine from.  Luckily, I looked at it before
I drove off.

:The above article mentions shorting out the stock LR regulator, couldn't
:this just be bypassed all together? 

Sure.  With an internally regulated alternator, all the regulator gets
used for is a junction box.  It makes sense to get rid of it, esp. if you
are wiring from scratch.

David 

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 04:59:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Aluminum Alloy

My Mig which is a HTP Versa Mig has a gun  (an extra that I bought with the
machine) which has a Teflon liner and so I can use the machine spool. It is
still a bit tricky and I soon learnt to keep the hose and machine and gun in as
straight as line as possible to avoid birds nesting the wire. Yes Argon.
I am just about to go out through the door on my way to the Airport. Will be
back on Thursday if you want more info on my machine. Gerry Elam did you still
want info on machines?

> Did you have a spool head attachment for your mig or were you able to feed
> the alum wire of the reel in the box?  And do you still use argon with alum?
> Mahalo
> Pete

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From: "Gerry O'Brien" <gerryob@frontiernet.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 17:21:38 -0500
Subject: What carb is the best replacement for a Solex?

I am looking for your opinion on what carb gives the best overall
performance with the least hassals. Thanks

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 13:38:57 -1000
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

>Sure.  With an internally regulated alternator, all the regulator gets
>used for is a junction box.  It makes sense to get rid of it, esp. if you
>are wiring from scratch.
>David 

David, Thanks for the info
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 13:45:51 -1000
Subject: Re: Rover Wiring and an Alternator question

>Check out Al Richer's article on this subject at the LR FAQ.  Talks about
>this.
>Nate

Thanks, can you pass along the URL?  I do not have it in my book.  Thanks
again
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 14:22:55 -1000
Subject: Steering Wheel Removal

OK, I give up.  How does this @#$%i8ng thing come off?
I removed the center nut per the instruction manual.  Been spraying WD-40 on
the thing for a day.  Can notsee anyway to attach a hub puller to the wheel.
Have not resorted to the "biggah  hammah" principal yet.
Thanks
Pete

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 20:38:59 -0400
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

Peter Hope wrote:

> OK, I give up.  How does this @#$%i8ng thing come off?
> I removed the center nut per the instruction manual.  Been spraying WD-40 on
> the thing for a day.  Can notsee anyway to attach a hub puller to the wheel.

Peter,  I improvised my own puller with  a stout piece of flat bar, a length of
3/4 threaded rod and a nut.
 I made the bar long enough to reach across the rim and drill a hole in the
centre to take the threaded rod then with the steering column nut in place but
loose place the rod  with its nut between the column and the bar. Screwing the
nut up the rod will push the wheel up. If there is quite a bit of pressure
before the wheel is loose give the end of the rod a sharp crack with a hammer.
    John and Muddy

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 07:13:41 -0700
Subject: Re: What carb is the best replacement for a Solex?

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 15:47:40
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

Peter
	Its held on by the nut and is splined to the shaft.  If it has never 
been
off or has gotten wet or both, it may be a bit difficult to get off.  I had
the advantage of having an intact front end when I first pulled mine so
just turned it back and forth while pulling back on the wheel.  I assume
you have no resistance in the steering so that may not work.  May be time
for a bigger hammer if a day or two more of penetrating oil doesn't do the
job.  Disconnecting the steering assembly from the car will allow you to
slide it out a bit and give you more stroke on the hammer.
Aloha Peter

At 02:22 PM 11/14/98 -1000, you wrote:

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 15:59:35
Subject: Re: Webber 2 barrel as replacement for a Solex?

	I've used the two barrel webber on both my rovers without any problems.
Supposed to give better performance than stock though my rovers both came
without functioning carbs so have never driven them without.  Gas mileage
runs about 15.5 miles per gallon in mixed driving with significant hills.
Have gotten a high of 17 with all highway driving at 55mph.  I'd especially
recommend the weber if you are going to use the 2.5 cam as I heard the cam
was designed to take advantage of the weber.  The conversion is expensive
because you also need a manifold though there has been someone advertising
kits in the mid $300's though I can't remember where I saw this
opportunity.  Some people have had problems with vapor lock.  Occasionally
mine stumbles when starting off after a short shut down but picks up within
a block or so.  Never had it refuse to run or develop problem while
underway.  Parts are available at any VW speed shop and assume at any
foreign car speed shop as it is a pretty common hop up carb on many foreign
autos.
	You can't beat the carter on a bang for buck basis.  The single barrel
weber is definitely smaller than the stock carb and is supposed to give a
slight performance hit though better gas mileage.

Aloha Peter

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 16:21:01
Subject: Re: Source for webber 2 barrel conversion  

Brand New Weber 32-36 DGV Carburetor, Throttle Linkage, Custom
       Alloy Intake Manifold & Washable Air Filter. $378 Please e-mail at
the address below. Thanks.
       John <cvi@rmii.com>
Aloha Peter

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 16:23:30
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets 

Tried the below address but got a file not found error message.  Any
suggestions on how to get through.
Aloha Peter

>came across an interesting site 
>www.riveter.com/English/index.html
>hand and air tools for setting blind rivets and riv-nuts
>FWIW...
>Rgds
>Steve Bradke

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 18:31:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets 

At 04:23 PM 11/14/98, you wrote:
>Tried the below address but got a file not found error message.  Any
>suggestions on how to get through.
>Aloha Peter
>>came across an interesting site 
>>www.riveter.com/English/index.html

..

 Use all lower case....

 www.riveter.com/english

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 16:56:43 -1000
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Removal

>Peter,  I improvised my own puller with  a stout piece of flat bar, a

length of
>3/4 threaded rod and a nut.

Yeah.  Had a piece of 2" angle lieing about.  Worked great.  Thanks
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 17:25:59 -1000
Subject: Bulkhead Measurement

Aloha.
To anyone who has a vehicle laying about in pieces at the moment:
I need to get the measurement of the distance between the two mounting
points on the bulkhead where it attaches to the frame outrigger.  I am not
sure that this area was not also bent in the accident and want a base line
to start from for straightening out the rest of the bugger.
Many thanks
Pete

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 21:16:11 -0800
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

You must have typed something wrong as I got through.
Jim Hall

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> Tried the below address but got a file not found error message.  Any
> suggestions on how to get through.
> Aloha Peter
> >came across an interesting site
> > http://www.riveter.com/English/index.html

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From: robot1@juno.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 22:16:27 -0800
Subject: IT'S ALIVE!!!!!

I have finally achieved AUTONOMOUS MOTION on Sheila. Decided the old carb
was too worn to work, and went to Autozone and ordered a brand spanking
rebuild for the Chevy six. I got a carb which was made to work with an
oil bath, if anyone wants the number I'll look it up. Looks primitive
enough to belong on a rover, and it has only ONE adjustment screw!!!!(My
kind of carb!) So this afternoon I reset the timing, checked the brakes,
set the dwell, and started it up- even drove around the yard a few
minutes before the fuel pump failed and killed it again, but that's
fixable----- but the important thing is, IT MOVED!!!!!!

OBTW, carb cost 109 bucks- how appropriate!!!! 35 dollar core brings the
cost under 80 bucks, so getting a dead one from a yard (maybe 5 bucks)
would be worth the effort. And 

Mark Hardig

1967 109 regular "Sheila"(now running and nearly roadable)

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 21:21:28 -0800
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

What the problem is that the e in english was capitol instaed of small
case. Try the link below.
Jim Hall

 http://www.riveter.com/english/index.html

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From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 23:52:06 -0500
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

Ok - we have had this problem before - it a case sensitive problem.
The URL that works is
http://www.riveter.com/english/index.html

Cheers - Mike

jimfoo@uswest.net wrote:

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 21:29:33
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

Aloha Jim:
	I'm just copying the address to netscape so I'm not typing anything.
Still not getting through.  Must be something with my Internet provider.
Mahalo for letting me know someone is having success.
Peter O.

At 09:16 PM 11/14/98 -0800, you wrote:

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 21:52:19
Subject: Re: web site re: rivets

	Thanks for the correction.  Got through with no problems with your
address.   Look like pop rivet guns not the kind of tools to set the round
rivets on our rovers.  Mahalo for getting right back to me.
Aloha Peter

At 09:21 PM 11/14/98 -0800, you wrote:

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 22:24:31 -1000
Subject: Delco Alternator

Aloha
I have been examining the Haynes electric diagrams for my project (they suck
by the way) and going over the existing harness.  Have also studied the
articles in the FAQ and on other websites about the Delco conversion.
I have a 1970 Ser IIa 88" positive ground.  The following link is a picture
of the 'new' diagram with the delco installed.  Could someone familiar with
the conversion take a look and let me know what they think?
Many thanks.
Pete

http://www.wccafe.com/phope/wiring.jpg

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