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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:37:03 -0400
Subject: Re: Noise after OD installation?

Jpslotus27@aol.com wrote:

> more noise and vibration coming from the tranny/x-fer case/overdrive area.
> This is especially noticable when I let up on the gas pedal.
>    Has anyone else noticed this?

Did one of your drive shaft U joints decide it was time to die? They all go some
time.
    John and Muddy

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From: Lucas Cascardo <cascardo@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:38:14 -0500
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe

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From: "Lee Dunkelberg" <Lee_Dunkelberg@Hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 07:54:44 -0600
Subject: Class Action Reminder Spam

Hey, as long as we're all so litigious, can we file a class action against
spam (i.e. - reminder postcards)?
Or does that fall in the category of - "YOU bought the computer.  Deal with
it." (?)
Cheers!

Lee and Clare Dunkelberg
1994 Yellow D-90
1998 White Discovery
1996 Black & White Lab/Border Collie

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 10:09:49 -0500
Subject: re: Tires and T/X gears?

>What gear needs to be changed? I thought it was the speedometer which 
>makes the difference?

>Sorry - that was a bit brief - I meant the little gear at the TX box end
of the speedo cable - at least on mine there are two  (?) options, of
different colours (& number of teeth)
Cheers
Allan

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:49:29 EST
Subject: Drivetrain problem

Hi all,

Nearly at the end of the transplant process... Now I'm afraid I'll have to
backtrack.  

History:  Putting in new engine, transmission and overdrive.
Engine turns.  Viewing in the inspection plate, the clutch pressure plate
turns with the engine.  When I tightened down the nut on the mainshaft (100
ft-lbs), I put a socket on the engine starter dog, blocked it, and put the
tranny in gear.  No problems.  

Put in the overdrive, (see  LRO archives for details).

Now, when tightening down the starter dog, engine turns, pressure plate turns
but the OD and transfer case gears don't turn with the engine (transmission
engaged).

If I rotate the transmission brake drum, all turns in the transfer case and
overdrive.

Is there a neutral position on the OD?  When  I try to move the linkage, the
shift fork barely moves forward or backward (Santana OD, but looks like a
similar design to Fairey)

Suggestions on what's up here?

Nate

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:02:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Diamond Edition Defender

Doug,

Those vehicles sold of the lot for $40K plus or minus the taxes. For one in
excellent physical shape, having never been "off-road" with 5K miles on it
you could expect to pay as much as "full price as new". I know that sounds
crazy, but for an example the 110's that came in in '93 sold originally for
$39K, they now go for as much as $52k with 18K miles on them!

Yours.
John

Drew, Doug wrote:

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:07:36 -0700
Subject: Re: Drivetrain problem

Nate,

Yes there is a N position on the OD. You might check that first. However, you
should be able to feel that distinction in lever motion similar to that of the
low transfer case lever.

Who re-built/built your OD. It sounds like you might not be getting a full range
of "throw" on that shift. Confirm that you get ~ 1- 2 inches of travel through
the gear shift opperation.

John

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

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From: Keith Cutler <keith_cutler@csgsystems.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:17:11 -0700
Subject: Diamond Edition Defender

Doug,

They were asking just over $40,000 at Land Rover East here in Denver,
but you had to act fast to secure one.

Thanks.
Keith Cutler
1960 Series II SWB

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From: Jon Dinsmore <jdinsmo@uswest.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 08:23:36 -0700
Subject: RE: Alternate Powerplants

I've been driving my (mostly) '67 IIa since 1982...mostly. During this
time, I've been mulling over the question: what shall I re-power this
beast with should the need arise? And, as it happens, the need has
arisen and I'm a hair's bredth away from dropping a stage II rotary
engine into Thisbe, my (sometimes affectionate) pet name for the beast.
Actually, the swap is probably a few years off, but I'm planning ahead.

When I mention this to other local LR owners, all but two cringe at the
thought. So let me put this question to the list: wouldn't a naturally
aspiriated, pint-sized, light-weight, hi-revving, mid-powered engine be
a perfect LR powerplant?

Thanks,
Jon Dinsmore

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 10:50:00 EST
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

In a message dated 11/13/98 8:25:01 AM US Mountain Standard Time,
jdinsmo@uswest.com writes:

<< wouldn't a naturally
 aspiriated, pint-sized, light-weight, hi-revving, mid-powered engine be
 a perfect LR powerplant? >>

Sounds like a perfect Japanese - type powerplant.  

Does higher revving, shorter-stroke, high-compression usually mean less
torque?  Is that what this is? 

Just asking... not flaming!
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 09:55:28 -0600
Subject: Re: McDonald's hot coffee lawsuit - no LR content

I'll support anyone suing the McDonald's scumbag corporation!!
                                         -RB

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From: John Cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:16:43 -0400
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

Jon Dinsmore wrote:

> I've been driving my (mostly) '67 IIa since 1982...mostly. During this
> time, I've been mulling over the question: what shall I re-power this
> beast with should the need arise? And, as it happens, the need has
> arisen and I'm a hair's bredth away from dropping a stage II rotary
> engine into Thisbe, my (sometimes affectionate) pet name for the beast.
> Actually, the swap is probably a few years off, but I'm planning ahead.
> When I mention this to other local LR owners, all but two cringe at the
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> thought. So let me put this question to the list: wouldn't a naturally
> aspiriated, pint-sized, light-weight, hi-revving, mid-powered engine be

All but the High Reving thing sound good. Land Rovers more than almost any
vehicle
are likely to need to go very slow quite often.
    John and Muddy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 11:21:19 EST
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

In a message dated 11/13/98 11:17:57 AM Eastern Standard Time,
john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

>  Land Rovers more than almost any
>  vehicle
>  are likely to need to go very slow quite often.

Well, then mine is completely up to the task.

-N

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 11:43:23 -0500
Subject: Lawyers...

Not to get off on a rant here, but....

I'm kinda supprised the LR corrosion trial isn't being held here instead.
There is one locality that is famous (infamous???) for huge awards.  just
about any case involving railroads anywhere in the nation - but absolutely
no local connection - is tried here.  Why (other than the patently obvious
huge awards) is that the rail lines run through here as well.  Thus, all
kinds of trails for events that happened in the mid-west and elsewhere wind
up in Portsmouth.  Case in point: concrete bridge beam falls off a truck in
Charlottesville (guy running the back roads so he wouldn't get weighed).
Concrete plant in Fredricksburg, trucking company in Culpepper, job site in
Roanoke.  Trial in Portsmouth - 'cause of the jury's awards, of course.  As
jury pools are selected from voter registrations, here you get a
preponderance of welfare recipients or unemployed persons.

About a year ago, I had jury duty.  As I can walk to the courthouse from
work, just showed up in my usual office attire - coat and tie.  Got struck
from *every* panel.  In a criminal trial, the defense attorney certainly
doesn't want a suit on the jury...might actually give the miscreant some
time.  And a civil plaintiff doesn't want someone who works for a living,
'cause htey might actually know what $2.3 million (for an injured hand -
true case!) is actually worth.  So if you want to get struck from jury
duty, dress up....

I think some wise person said that it was unlikely that he would be judged
by a jury of his peers, as obviously these people weren't smart enough to
get out of serving.  Shakespeare was right....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Tim Harincar <harincar@Camworks.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 10:45:05 -0600
Subject: Re: Ammeter fluctuations

David Hope wrote:

- So, I have opted to leave my ammeter fluctuating over a wide range.
- Apparently that is how it is meant to work.

It is possible that it's not the ammeter. I may have missed something, but
if you're running stock electricals - generator, voltage regulator, etc.,
than this is how the meter should work (I had this similar discussion with
Charlie at RN a couple times).

When you first start the Rover, the meter should bounce up to about 15-20
amps, and hold there for a little bit - say 5 minutes or so. After that it
should settle back down to about 0-3 amps. Maybe even 0- (-3) if your
running the lights, heater, wipers and signals, as I did in the winter.

If the meter is bouncing in sync with the rpms - i.e. higher revs = higher
amps - it means your VR is fried.

Tim
---
tim harincar
harincar@camworks.com
Camworks, St. Paul, MN
http://www.camworks.com
Internet Solutions that Power Business 

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 98 09:29:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Noise after OD installation? 

   >About 1 week after installing my Toto overdrfive, I notice there is much
>more noise and vibration            ^^^^ 

hmmm...maybe you're not in Kansas anymore...

seriously, did you get 100ft lbs on that weird nut at the back of the 
mainshaft?
otherwise it may howl.

later
dave

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 98 12:54:29 -0500
Subject: Re: Drivetrain problem 

>Is there a neutral position on the OD?

yes. sounds like its in neutral.
try spinning the handbrake drum while you attempt to move the OD lever forward 
or back. main box in neutral to allow for some slop.
is it full of oil yet? can't hurt since it sounds like things are pretty tight 
in there...

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From: Vel Natarajan <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 13:26:50 -0600
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

> >wouldn't a naturally aspiriated, pint-sized, light-weight,
> >hi-revving, mid-powered engine be a perfect LR powerplant?
> Does higher revving, shorter-stroke, high-compression usually mean
> less torque?  Is that what this is?

Since he said it was a rotary engine, I don't think stroke exists. :-)
I didn't think those things had any torque down low, do they?  It's
the perfect engine for a small, light, sportscar (RX-7), but what would
it give a truck?

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 14:37:30 EST
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

In a message dated 11/13/98 2:31:28 PM Eastern Standard Time, vel@enteract.com
writes:

>  It's
>  the perfect engine for a small, light, sportscar (RX-7), but what would
>  it give a truck?

That Wankel panache...

-N

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 14:41:10 EST
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

In a message dated 11/13/98 11:39:07 AM Pacific Standard Time, NADdMD@aol.com
writes:

<< That Wankel panache >>
Would the name for a Rotary Rover Hybrid, then be "the Wankel Wanker"?

Zack Arbios

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From: "Scott Phillips" <goin4xn@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 11:45:55 PST
Subject: Re: [Jeep-SLC] Re: Question/General

Glenn,
Funny that you should post this today.  I was just about to make my own 
boycott of Patagonia public.  Last night Misty and I went into the 
Patagonia store to get a gift certificate for Russ (Late B-day present).  
I noticed that there was a lot of SUWA literature prominently displayed.  
I asked the clerk if there was a manager there so that I could discuss 
this matter.  She said that there was not one present but she could tell 
me all I wanted to know about the proposed land closures.  I mentioned 
that I was a concerned fourwheeler and that I wanted access to those 
lands.  The conversation rapidly deteriorated when she realized that I 
was not a budding greenie but rather someone who was not sympathetic to 
her views.

Needless to say - we left with out the gift certificate and we and my 
family will nolonger patronize Patagonia.  It's unfortunate as I really 
enjoy their clothing and have several items.  When I informed Russ he 
too said that he will nolonger buy Patagonia clothing.

Like Glenn, I cannot support agencies (directly or indirectly) that are 
fighting to take away my freedom to enjoy the outdoors in the way that I 
see fit.  The fact is that I could never have taken my family to the 
beautiful places we've been with out a vehicle.  There is no possible 
way to get there on foot with small children.  My grandfather (who is 
now 90 years old) was a shepard and grew up in Southern Utah.  Last 
summer we were able to go back with him and see a lot of the childhood 
places that he has told us about.  That is a priceless memory for me and 
it would never have happened if we had not used a vehicle to go there.

Scott Phillips
1984 CJ-7
http://www.circle17.com/jeep/scott
http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm
Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep

Glenn wrote:
>I am very conservation minded, but I try to draw the line at destroying 
peoples
>lives and breaking the law. Patagonia, from reading the attached email 
and
>through support of Earth First!, must not draw the same line. Anything 
short of
>physical violence seems fine with them according to their Customer 
Service Dept.
>statement. "Civil Disobience" is just fine, no matter the laws broken, 
or other
>consequences of such actions. Unfortunate.
>I won't be burning my Patagonia garments (of which there are several) 

because
>the damage is done and money has been spent. But I'll not be buying 
Patagonia
>brand anymore. How can I either directly, or indirectly support those 
who seek
>to close my trails, whether it be hiking, mtn biking, or in an SUV.
>I'm sure Patagonia has not taken association with groups like Earth 

First!
>lightly. However, supporting organizations who support land & trail 
closures
>without compromise, is not what outdoors oriented companies should be 
doing.
>Other, better, multi-use conservation minded non-profit organizations 
exist who
>deserve monies and support from corporate entities such as Patagonia.
>Until Patagonia stops supporting (illegal activities/civil disobience 

through
>support of) Earth First!, this hiker, mtn biker, and OHV user's 
purchases can
>easily be made elsewhere.
>Let your voice be heard. If you feel the same about Patagonia's support 

of trail
>closure orgs like Earth First! Reply to the attached email address 
below.
>>>_____________________________ Forward Header
>__________________________________
>>>Subject: Re: Question/General
>>>Author:  customer_service_at_renolan@patagonia.com at INTERNET
>>>Date:    11/12/98 12:06 PM
>>>     Thank you for your E-Mail regarding our support of various

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>>>     Thank you for your E-Mail regarding our support of various
>>>     environmental groups. While we do not consider them 
"terrorists",
>>>     Patagonia supports non-violent civil disobedience in the face of
>>>     injustice regarding enviromental issues and wild places. 
Patagonia

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 12:47:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Class action Crap

Hi all-

Heard on the news last week That the city of New Orleans is suing all
the Gun Manufactures for the harm they cause. Heard today That Los
Angeles is joining in.

Aside from the obvious (to me anyway) that it ain't the inanimate object
that does the killing, will we see Car Makers being sued next because
they didn't protect the "Poor Helpless Public" from getting
killed/injured when the Drunk gets behind the wheel!! Or God forbid, Hi
lift et al getting sued because somebody jacked there Rover out of a rut
and whilst pushing it over, got hurt?

"Oh My, the sun was in my eyes and I didn't see that kid!! Better sue
God for creating it!!!"

Rant over!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 14:56:13 -0600
Subject: SU carb prices

Hi, all,

(Sorry for the cross post)

I have an opportunity to get a twin SU set-up (including intake manifold)
off of a Rover 3500 that I'm considering installing on my 1984 (German
spec) Range Rover to replace the existing twin Strombergs.  I previously
asked about the benefits and fesability of doing this swap and got mixed
responses, most positive.

My question now is, what is a good price for the SU's?  The seller wants
$200.  I will probably go see them this weekend or next weekend.  This
sounds like a good deal to me, but a needless expendature, if I won't be
making the modification.

He also is selling parts manuals for:
Rover 2000
Rover 3500 & 3500S
Rover SD1
1975 Range Rover (w/o cover)
if anyone is interested.

Cheers,
Ray Burton
'84 RR
'64 s2a 109 SW
'70 s2a 88

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 16:34:09 -0500
Subject: Re: SU carb prices

200 bucks for a carb swap for what? You'll have to get out a calculator 
to tell any difference.
Go to the Edelbrock website and start drooling over their 
cam/manifold/holley carb setup for these engines. Add headers and high 
flow pipes and you'll probably see another 50-odd ponies. For a real 
thrill add an Eaton supercharger and nitrous injection.
Yes, it will all fit under the bonnet quite smartly, and then you can go 
Porsche hunting.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Emil King" <ewader@hotmail.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 13:58:55 PST
Subject: geocities site

I can't seem to find the address of the lister w/ the geocities site, 
something like 'Bayou Rovers.' Just wanted to commend you, and also 
bring it to your attention that there is a javascript error ('line 16' 
or something) that inhibits my viewing pleasure just a tad. Other than 
that, keep up the good work.

Emil King-fellow geocitizen
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/Lofts/7771/

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From: FOSTERLOHR@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 17:12:08 EST
Subject: RE: 16" Tires - What to buy?

I have a Stage I 109 and have had great success with Cooper 235x85 16's - 10
ply Discover STT (M&S).  I got about 60,000 miles out of the first set.  I
bought the last set 3.5 years ago.  I'm not sure if they're still available.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Ted

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 05:57:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Lawyers...

I often wonder if the three instigators of the class action suit are in any way
shape or form ,directly or indirectly, connected to any competitor manufacturer
of  4 x 4 vehicles.

> I'm kinda supprised the LR corrosion trial isn't being held here instead.
> There is one locality that is famous (infamous???) for huge awards.  just
> about any case involving railroads anywhere in the nation - but absolutely
> no local connection - is tried here.  Why (other than the patently obvious
> huge awards) is that the rail lines run through here as well.  Thus, all
> kinds of trails for events that happened in the mid-west and elsewhere wind
> up in Portsmouth.  Case in point: concrete bridge beam falls off a truck in
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
> by a jury of his peers, as obviously these people weren't smart enough to
> get out of serving.  Shakespeare was right....  Cheers

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From: "M. Tompkins" <mmglass@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:04:22 -0500
Subject: Re: geocities site

Hi,
    I think this is the URL for the site you are looking for.
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/5103/index.html
    Thanks for tipping me off about the error. The only java
on my site is probably in the geoguide or some other code
Geocities adds to the pages.

Since upgrading to Netscape Communicator I am getting all kinds of
JavaScript errors. What happened to the simple internet?
Rover On - Mike

Emil King wrote:

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From: RykRover@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:17:06 EST
Subject: Re: Class action Crap

hi all,

thought i would jump into the middle of this mess.........
i would tend to agree that society as a whole is very sue happy, however there
are times that this is warranted. 
i own 4 rovers (2) SIIa`s and a `94 D-90 & `96 Disco.
the 2 series trucks have NO corrosion, BUT the disco has already been in for
corrosion repair due to electrolysis about 16 months ago, and needs to go back
in for a redo.
i would have to agree that it IS a MANUFACTURING/ENGINEERING FLAW, thus i have
to agree that legal action warranted in this case. these are not bottom of the
barrel vehicles(exspecially in the US) . LR has proven that they can build an
aluminum skin / steel frame in the past , so i say make them do it! 
RGDS, Rick

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:31:41 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Noise after OD installation?

In a message dated 11/13/98 1:15:18 PM, you wrote:

<<seriously, did you get 100ft lbs on that weird nut at the back of the 
mainshaft?
otherwise it may howl.>>

I'll give that a try.  I wonder how many foot-pounds there are in my hammer
strikes on a chisel.
  Someone on the list was going to make a socket to use on this.  Any idea on
this?  Is there a special Rogver tool for it?

Thanks
Enzo

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:35:50 EST
Subject: Re:  Drivetrain problem

In a message dated 11/13/98 9:52:17 AM, you wrote:

<<Is there a neutral position on the OD?  When  I try to move the linkage, the
shift fork barely moves forward or backward (Santana OD, but looks like a
similar design to Fairey)>>

   Yes, there is a neutral.  Until I drove my car with the OD installed, I
could not budge the linkage.  I got it into gear using a stubby screw driver
in the back of the OD and gave it a few taps with a hammer.  After I drove it
a few miles it loosened right up.  Give this a try. It'll tell you right away
if the OD's the problem

Enzo

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 23:34:50 -0000
Subject: Re: McDonald's hot coffee lawsuit - no LR content

don't prevaricate, Ray, what do you really think?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+
            I !__|  [_]|_\___
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:48:40 EST
Subject: Crass action clap (no LR content

To win elections, politicians generally place the short term desires of ill
informed constituents over the long term national interests.

Homer Lea, 1911

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From: "Gerry O'Brien" <gerryob@frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 20:01:32 -0500
Subject: Rochester Carb for 2.25lt 1965

I am looking for a part number for a bolt on application of a Rochester
carb on my 65 IIa.to replace the original Solex.  Do I need a adaptor
for this application?

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From: "Gerry O'Brien" <gerryob@frontiernet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 20:07:29 -0500
Subject: Rochester carb retrofit

any info would be helpfull. I am replacing a solex on my 1965 2.25lt Is
an adaptor required?

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 18:51:50 -0800
Subject: Re: Noise after OD installation?

I made a socket out of a piece of pipe. I don't remember if it was 1 1/4
or 1 1/2 inch pipe. I put the nut against the pipe and marked what areas
needed to be cut out, and then cut them with a hacksaw. I welded them
for added strength, and welded a plate and a nut on the back. Works just
fine.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

Jpslotus27@aol.com wrote:
> I'll give that a try.  I wonder how many foot-pounds there are in my hammer
> strikes on a chisel.
>   Someone on the list was going to make a socket to use on this.  Any idea on
> this?  Is there a special Rogver tool for it?

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 19:16:53 -0700
Subject: Re Geocities site

Hi There!

Emil mentioned the Bayou Rover Site. It's put togethe by Jim Stewart out
of (where else,)Louisiana!!

His email address is right there on the first page, under the "Dogs",
Phiodeaux and Sput.

Blame me for the Music-he heard it on my site, and followed me into
sounds!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"
http://www.geocities.com/Baja/Canyon/6339/

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 23:00:55 -0500
Subject: web site re: rivets 

came across an interesting site 
www.riveter.com/English/index.html
hand and air tools for setting blind rivets and riv-nuts
FWIW...
Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 22:09:41 -0600
Subject: Re: Rochester carb retrofit

Hi Gerry,
  Putting on a Rochester Carb on your series II is dead easy.

 First: locate a american carb rebuilder & purchase a 1967 chevy pickup
6 cylinder
          230 ci . engine.  It will come with a 58 or 57 main jet which
needs to be chanced to
          44, 45, 46, 47 or 48  depending on your engines mixture needs.
I am running 44 in a
          7-1 engine & 45 in a 8-1 engine in Chicago.

  Second:  You enlarge the mounting holes to about 5/8 from 3/8 inch.

   Third: buy a hand choke for a truck from trak or pep boys(anywhere)

   Fourth:  unbolt the pivit ball from your old carb & mount it on the
new carb.

   Five :  replace your stock choke cable because it is to short to come
from
             the front of the engine.   I made the choke mounting
bracket from
             the hardware supplied.

 Note:  you may have to adjust or flip the LR throttle linkage. to get
the correct
   Movement.  when you use the choke the engine will tend to race to
2000 rpm
   so I close my choke a soon as it starts.   It took me 3 hours to do
both of mine.
   The engine will run with out the main jet   changed.  However it will
be to rich
   to drive around.

   I like my carb conversion & it works well.

   Regards,
      Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 00:21:00
Subject: BOOK

 I recieved the latest CLASSIC MOTORBOOKS catalogue today. On page 14,
second down from top is our very own JIM ALLENS book. Classic 4x4 buyers
guide. Hey, Jim whats with that  G_D Da_n Dodge Power Wagon on the cover?
You haven't become a turn coat have you?

Jim Wolf

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 23:22:43 EST
Subject: Re: Diamond Edition Defender

$40,600 was list

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From: Chris Stevens <chrisste@clark.net>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 23:25:01 -0500
Subject: Installing a Weber

Hi all,

I finally broke down and am going to replace the Zenith with a Weber
this weekend. The unit I purchased from RN is not the one with the
Solonoid shut-off, even though my Zenith has this feature. Is this a
concern?

Chris Stevens
Towson, MD
1969 Series IIA 88"

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 23:39:07 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Installing a Weber

On Fri, 13 Nov 1998, Chris Stevens wrote:

:I finally broke down and am going to replace the Zenith with a Weber
:this weekend. The unit I purchased from RN is not the one with the
:Solonoid shut-off, even though my Zenith has this feature. Is this a
:concern?

The stock Zenith is the only carb generally fitted to Land-Rovers with the
fuel shutoff solonoid.  I don't think that replacement Zeniths with the
fuel shutoff have been available for a long time.   I wouldn't worry about
its lack.

David
:

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 23:51:32 -0500
Subject: Re: Rochester carb retrofit

Gerry,

There's no real bolt-on application for the old Rochester - some rejeting needs
to be done (not complex, but you do have to take the carburettor apart and
fiddle in its innards), as well as having to ream out the mounting holes to fit
and fabricate a connector to the existing throttle linkage and choke (cold
start) cable.

None of it is beyond the capabilites of the average shade-tree mechanic, but
it's not a take-it-out-of-the-box and run with it situation. The Rochester BV
model that gets used for this is typically from an older CHevrolet 6-cylinder
truck and is massively overjetted for the 4-cylinder Land-Rover engine.

If you really want bolt-on and go, I suggest either the LR Zenith carburettor or
the Weber 34ICH. Either can be gotten easily and require nothing more than a
manifold adapter to fit your manifold.

               ajr

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 19:15:55 -1000
Subject: Aluminum Alloy

Anyone know the Alum. Alloy code for "brimabright"?  I am looking at getting
a sheet to do some repairs and fabricating a radio/cb rack.  I want to make
sure the new sheet is compatable for welding.  That way I can do some
practing on the scraps before I try the real thing.  Also I do not have a
mic, what gauge are Series LR bodies?
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 13 Nov 1998 19:52:15 -1000
Subject: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

Just wanted to send along how my project is progressing.
Well it took a week, but the body is off my '70 88.  I took the time to bag
and tag all the parts prior to boxing them up so hopefully the reassembly
goes well.  As I was removing trim I found minor signs of cancer on the door
frames and in the foot well.  Nothing bad enough to require metal
replacemement, but I decided to de-skin the door tops and bottoms.  Removing
the skins was pretty easy.   Going to sandblast the frames.  I was then
thinking of using POR-15 on the frames, and then reskin them.  I think this
may provide a good barrier between the two metals.  I was also thinking of
cleaning the inner side of the skins and etch priming before reassembly.
I also found out that it takes longer to strip all the items from the
bulkhead then to get the entire body off the car.
My wireing harness is totally hosed, so there is another unplanned repair.
I am going to build a rolling cradle to place the engine/trans/xfer onto.
Soon as the rack is done I will finish stripping the drive train from the
frame.  And then the work actually begins

At least with the body off I can get a good look at the frame.  And it
doesn't look good.  Just to refresh your memories, the vehicle hit a guard
rail on the right side.  Took out fender, spring, tire, wheel, shock and
motor mount on that side.  The accident cracked a majority of the welds in
the frame.  Discovered that both frame rails are bent.  On a good note the
front axle housing is not bent after all, just the steering arm on the right
side.
The bulkhead did get beat up pretty bad.  The right side foot well is pushed
in (from the tire), breaking the rivets that hold on the heater mounting
plate.  The area around the tunnel is pushed in and twisted (from the engine
and trany).  And the area under the right vent is bent back (the hood).
So, what's next?
First get the rolls of film developed and design a web site.  Hmm, doing
some work and not needing to clean up after, now thats a thought.
I have decided to rebuild the frame.  Not sure if I will have it galv'ed or
just PORed (maybe lavaliner) after.  It is a basic $$ issue.  I can purchase
all the steel for about 300, where as a frame and shipping to HI is 2700.  I
figure if it doesn't turn out right I can always cut it up and make
something else from it.  Anyone want a rear cross member garden swing?
Bulk head is going to take some serious metal work.  Luckily there are no
tears, holes or anything to worry about.  Sure do wish I had another
stripped down bulkhead to compare it with.  Guess I won't know until it
comes time to remount the doors if it is straight.

Goodnight all
Pete

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 01:02:19 EST
Subject: Re: Class action cr*p (added Rover content)

In a message dated 98-11-13 01:59:30 EST, you write:

 Rover content: Too bad driving our rovers down steep off camber
 embankments causing a spine crushing event isn't covered the same way
 cigs are.
 
 >>
Suggested label to be placed on  hazardous, politically incorrect  vehicles

WARNING! THE US GOVERNMENT HAS DETERMINED THAT SMASHING YOUR CHEESY LITTLE
SHITBOX AGAINST MY LANDROVER MAY BE HAZARDOUS TO YOUR HEALTH.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 01:20:39 EST
Subject: Re: Alternate Powerplants

In a message dated 98-11-13 10:25:01 EST, you write:

 I've been driving my (mostly) '67 IIa since 1982...mostly. During this
 time, I've been mulling over the question: what shall I re-power this
 beast with should the need arise? And, as it happens, the need has
 arisen and I'm a hair's bredth away from dropping a stage II rotary
 engine into Thisbe, my (sometimes affectionate) pet name for the beast.
 Actually, the swap is probably a few years off, but I'm planning ahead.
 
 When I mention this to other local LR owners, all but two cringe at the
 thought. So let me put this question to the list: wouldn't a naturally
 aspiriated, pint-sized, light-weight, hi-revving, mid-powered engine be
 a perfect LR powerplant?
 
 Thanks,
 Jon Dinsmore
 
 >>
I knew of a SIIA with a rotary transplant when I lived in Grand Junction, CO.
A friend bought it mostly for parts but he took the occaision to drive it
before he stripped it. He said the rotary was great on the road, but had
absolutely no low end torque. He didn't think enough of the transplant to even
hesitate to part the vehicle out.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 01:44:08 EST
Subject: Re: SU carb prices

In a message dated 98-11-13 16:06:22 EST, you write:

<< My question now is, what is a good price for the SU's?  The seller wants
 $200 >>

If this includes the intake manifold, it's a deal - provided the carbs are in
good shape.

I'd use these rather than any downdraft conversions, because most of them tend
to hit you with a flat spot on acceleration.

...How much is that SD-1 manual, and which one is it?

Charles

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 02:06:17 EST
Subject: Re: Series Disasembly.  Accident Repair.

In a message dated 98-11-14 00:58:10 EST, you write:

 At least with the body off I can get a good look at the frame.  And it
 doesn't look good.  Just to refresh your memories, the vehicle hit a guard
 rail on the right side.  Took out fender, spring, tire, wheel, shock and
 motor mount on that side.  The accident cracked a majority of the welds in
 the frame.  Discovered that both frame rails are bent.  On a good note the
 front axle housing is not bent after all, just the steering arm on the right
 side.
 The bulkhead did get beat up pretty bad.  The right side foot well is pushed
 in (from the tire), breaking the rivets that hold on the heater mounting
 plate.  The area around the tunnel is pushed in and twisted (from the engine
 and trany).  And the area under the right vent is bent back (the hood).
 So, what's next?
 First get the rolls of film developed and design a web site.  Hmm, doing
 some work and not needing to clean up after, now thats a thought.
 I have decided to rebuild the frame.  Not sure if I will have it galv'ed or
 just PORed (maybe lavaliner) after.  It is a basic $$ issue.  I can purchase
 all the steel for about 300, where as a frame and shipping to HI is 2700.  I
 figure if it doesn't turn out right I can always cut it up and make
 something else from it.  Anyone want a rear cross member garden swing?
 Bulk head is going to take some serious metal work.  Luckily there are no
 tears, holes or anything to worry about.  Sure do wish I had another
 stripped down bulkhead to compare it with.  Guess I won't know until it
 comes time to remount the doors if it is straight.
 
 Goodnight all
 Pete >>
Sounds like you need to go looking for those hulks they were discussing here a
while back. Might save a lot of time, work, $ etc.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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