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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:05:53 +0200
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

Andy Grafton wrote:
> c%^p, but the carbureted V8?  The V8 may need interesting

OK, maybe I'm judging the V8 harshly, it just seems to me that Rover
could have got an engine so much than what they did for the same expense
and trouble. In its normally aspirated form it is fairly reliable but
still develops good torque so far up the rev band that it often
overheats when working hard in sand. Interestingly when the evil pig of
an R6 engine actually works as its supposed to (5-10% of the time) it
almost outperforms the V8 - frightening but true!
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Duncan Phillips <dunk@ivanhoe.soc.staffs.ac.uk>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 13:14:53 +0000
Subject: Freelander Recall

I read with interest this weekend that Land Rover were re-calling a number
of the earlier Freelanders, due to a problem with some welding round the
rear suspension (must be a lack of experience with monocoque bodies -
wouldn't have this problem with a proper chassis!!!).

I also noted that in the latest TV advert for the Vauxhall Frontera, they
mention the 'new ladder chassis' as an improvement - interesting.

*******************************
Duncan Phillips
1980 SWB SIII 'Evie'
http://Gawain.soc.staffs.ac.uk/~cmtdmp/play/lrover/
*******************************
Big Bad n' Blue

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:50:45 +0200
Subject: Re: Expedition LRs/design criteria (was overweight & santana 6)

Andy Grafton wrote:
> One
> thing that I feel strongly about is that the standard Series (be it I, II,
> IIa or III) gearbox really isn't made to take more torque or power
> than is put out by a standard 4 or 6 cylinder motor. 

I don't think L-R actually designed their drivetrain components to yield
at X Nm plus 20%. I think it was more a case of the individual
components being sourced on a
what's-available-at-the-best-price-at-the-time-basis. 

> This is of
> particular concern when high vehicle masses are involved as you're
> already using consistently more right foot on acceleration and to go
> up hills.

You're entirely correct. The idea is not to drop the clutch, but with
increased horsepower you don't have to rev nearly as high to pull away
under load or maintain momentum when hill climbing.
 
> By fitting a motor of a higher power output or "greater reliability",
> you may be compromising the reliability of your gearbox;  people
> claim that they won't use the power at times when it is "dangerous
> to the gearbox", but if it is there then you will (probably) get used to
> it and begin to use it to your advantage.  After a few years the
> gearbox may disintegrate at an inappropriate moment.  Fancy oils
> and careful driving will IMO just delay the inevitable.

Possibly, but I feel it's worth the risk for me.

> The 200Tdi is a fantastic engine, but I would hesitate to install one
> in a stock series vehicle for fear of stuffing the gearbox up.

Are you meaning 300TDI perhaps? I haven't heard very lavish comments
being passed on its predecessor before.
 
> Land Rover made special modifications to the gearboxes of
> vehicles fitted with larger engines than standard here in SA (they
> were designated as Series IIIS or R6) - the engines weren't *that*

Nope, they used a stock Santanna box the daddy of the current 110 and
Defender boxes.

> much more powerful than stock and certainly weren't in the league
> of a large GMC diesel. 

True.

> Those gearboxes last a lot longer but still
> get chewed up in the end by the most popular conversion, 3.xL
> Chev straight sixes.  The traditionally bulletproof transfer 'box also
> has modifications to make it more so.

No comment, although the transfer box does have a tendency to jump out
of gear when the gears become worn and fling apart under strain - this
is fairly easy to remedy, though.
 
> If I put an engine of significantly more power than stock in a true
> "expedition vehicle" i.e. one that was going to be used in arduous
> conditions, not driven on tar to camping grounds, I would make
> damn sure that I changed the gearbox for something of a higher
> spec., preferably with 5 speeds for the a to b functionality, and if it

Yes, but what?

> had a centre diff, so much the better.

Arrrggg! No. Please, not "permanent 1 wheel drive"...
 
> If you asked me if I would change the gearbox or engine on a stock
> 4 cylinder series vehicle to make it more expedition compatible I
> would vote for a more highly specced gearbox every time; 5th gear
> would make cruising a lot nicer without the relative fragility of an
> Overdrive, and the gearbox would be running at much less than its
> design load...  

Me, I'll just leave in the skinny sideshafts and replace them whenever
necessary.

> I'd find it difficult to think of an engine more suitable
> then the 4 cylinder petrol/diesel when you take into account
> reliability, parts availability in remote places and ruggedness.

Great engine, love it! In my shorty, that is, but trying to push an
expedition vehicle with a wet weight of three and a half tonne up
mountains and through sand with a 2.286 (petrol or diesel) is enough to
induce hernias (from trying to push the accelerator through the
floorboards), and you never quite seem to make your campsite by
nightfall, and the clients really get wound up having to sleep rough
EVERY night of a three week trip.

> Permanent 4 wheel drive à la Defender would be a boon in terms of
> non-Salisbury axle life, but some people don't like the kickback
> from the swivel UJs.

See above regarding permanent 1 wheel drive.

> If I fitted a higher power engine with a Series 'box I'd put a block of
> wood under the accelerator pedal or otherwise limit the power
> output; the whole thing would (proabably) be more reliable because
> the engine's running below design output and the gearbox isn't
> overstressed.

Yes, and yes!
 
> Last time I was in Zimababwe I saw an expedition-use-only 110
> fitted with a 2.286 petrol, mated to an LT95 gearbox (I think the
> original engine was probably a 2.5 petrol).  It was carrying about
> 800kg on a permanent basis and had been everywhere on the
> African continent and then some.  The guy had done 250,000km in
> it with that setup, and the only non-maintenance work he had done
> to the engine or transmission was to overhaul the cylinder head.
> OK he had to use low range to get up hills in Kariba, but so did I
> (overladen 2.286 diesel 109").

No comment, but good to hear about.

> Just my opinions.

And if anyone tries to take them away from you...
 
> All the best,
> Andy
> andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR
> 800kg on a permanent basis and had been everywhere on the

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 11:49:44 +0200
Subject: Re: Expedition LRs/design criteria (was overweight & santana 6)

Andy Grafton wrote:
> One
> thing that I feel strongly about is that the standard Series (be it I, II,
> IIa or III) gearbox really isn't made to take more torque or power
> than is put out by a standard 4 or 6 cylinder motor. 

I don't think L-R actually designed their drivetrain components to yield
at X Nm plus 20%. I think it was more a case of the individual
components being sourced on a
what's-available-at-the-best-price-at-the-time-basis. 

> This is of
> particular concern when high vehicle masses are involved as you're
> already using consistently more right foot on acceleration and to go
> up hills.

You're entirely correct. The idea is not to drop the clutch, but with
increased horsepower you don't have to rev nearly as high to pull away
under load or maintain momentum when hill climbing.
 
> By fitting a motor of a higher power output or "greater reliability",
> you may be compromising the reliability of your gearbox;  people
> claim that they won't use the power at times when it is "dangerous
> to the gearbox", but if it is there then you will (probably) get used to
> it and begin to use it to your advantage.  After a few years the
> gearbox may disintegrate at an inappropriate moment.  Fancy oils
> and careful driving will IMO just delay the inevitable.

Possibly, but I feel it's worth the risk for me.

> The 200Tdi is a fantastic engine, but I would hesitate to install one
> in a stock series vehicle for fear of stuffing the gearbox up.

Are you meaning 300TDI perhaps? I haven't heard very lavish comments
being passed on its predecessor before.
 
> Land Rover made special modifications to the gearboxes of
> vehicles fitted with larger engines than standard here in SA (they
> were designated as Series IIIS or R6) - the engines weren't *that*

Nope, they used a stock Santanna box the daddy of the current 110 and
Defender boxes.

> much more powerful than stock and certainly weren't in the league
> of a large GMC diesel. 

True.

> Those gearboxes last a lot longer but still
> get chewed up in the end by the most popular conversion, 3.xL
> Chev straight sixes.  The traditionally bulletproof transfer 'box also
> has modifications to make it more so.

No comment, although the transfer box does have a tendency to jump out
of gear when the gears become worn and fling apart under strain - this
is fairly easy to remedy, though.
 
> If I put an engine of significantly more power than stock in a true
> "expedition vehicle" i.e. one that was going to be used in arduous
> conditions, not driven on tar to camping grounds, I would make
> damn sure that I changed the gearbox for something of a higher
> spec., preferably with 5 speeds for the a to b functionality, and if it

Yes, but what?

> had a centre diff, so much the better.

Arrrggg! No. Please, not "permanent 1 wheel drive"...
 
> If you asked me if I would change the gearbox or engine on a stock
> 4 cylinder series vehicle to make it more expedition compatible I
> would vote for a more highly specced gearbox every time; 5th gear
> would make cruising a lot nicer without the relative fragility of an
> Overdrive, and the gearbox would be running at much less than its
> design load...  

Me, I'll just leave in the skinny sideshafts and replace them whenever
necessary.

> I'd find it difficult to think of an engine more suitable
> then the 4 cylinder petrol/diesel when you take into account
> reliability, parts availability in remote places and ruggedness.

Great engine, love it! In my shorty, that is, but trying to push an
expedition vehicle with a wet weight of three and a half tonne up
mountains and through sand with a 2.286 (petrol or diesel) is enough to
induce hernias (from trying to push the accelerator through the
floorboards), and you never quite seem to make your campsite by
nightfall, and the clients really get wound up having to sleep rough
EVERY night of a three week trip.

> Permanent 4 wheel drive à la Defender would be a boon in terms of
> non-Salisbury axle life, but some people don't like the kickback
> from the swivel UJs.

See above regarding permanent 1 wheel drive.

> If I fitted a higher power engine with a Series 'box I'd put a block of
> wood under the accelerator pedal or otherwise limit the power
> output; the whole thing would (proabably) be more reliable because
> the engine's running below design output and the gearbox isn't
> overstressed.

Yes, and yes!
 
> Last time I was in Zimababwe I saw an expedition-use-only 110
> fitted with a 2.286 petrol, mated to an LT95 gearbox (I think the
> original engine was probably a 2.5 petrol).  It was carrying about
> 800kg on a permanent basis and had been everywhere on the
> African continent and then some.  The guy had done 250,000km in
> it with that setup, and the only non-maintenance work he had done
> to the engine or transmission was to overhaul the cylinder head.
> OK he had to use low range to get up hills in Kariba, but so did I
> (overladen 2.286 diesel 109").

No comment, but good to hear about.

> Just my opinions.

And if anyone tries to take them away from you...
 
> All the best,
> Andy
> andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR
> 800kg on a permanent basis and had been everywhere on the

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 12:00:49 +0200
Subject: Adapter paltes, bellhousings, etc.

Hi all,

Remember last week someone asked me about off-the-shelf adapter plates,
wel, surprise, surprise Gilo (not Gila, sorry) Engineering has a website
- not complete yet (they say end of the week) but interesting anyway.
You can find them, and their L-R adapter plates (they don't have their
excellent twin choke Weber inlet manifolds for the 2.286 on yet either)
at http://www.giloeng.com

They won't have prices on the site but the adapters (ALL of the L-R
adapters are one price) work out at about US$150 and the inlet manifolds
at about US$94 excl p+p, and if you're international you'll get the VAT
of 14% on the purchase price chopped off.

Hope this helps someone. I have NO connection whatsoever to Gilo and all
the usual disclaimers apply.

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 8:35:03 -0500
Subject: C.A. relief adventure...

I'm sure all of you have seen the devastation that Hurricane Mitch 
brought to the central american region. I too have been watching and 
wondering what I can do to help. Donating food and clothing is all well 
and good, but at the moment, there is a lack of on-the-ground 
distribution due to destruction of roads and bridges. Trucks are unable 
to get to the interior and helicopters seem to be the only way in or out 
of some areas.
I hope that we might be able to get a collection of Land Rovers together 
for a two-week excursion to the region during which time we might try to 
reestablish supply routes to some of the hard-hit areas and bring relief 
to those isolated by the storm. 
I want to get corporate sponsorship to cover the cost of shipping the 
trucks and the necessary supplies to Honduras. LRNA, Garmin GPS, Some 
major food distributors, ADM, Ahold, and whoever else we can think of 
ought to throw into the pot to help defray the costs and supply some 
equipment. I need someone to help me manage this project and help with 
the coordination of resources. Please contact me at your earliest 
convenience and let me know if you can help. I don't want to just sit by 
when I have the ability and the tools to get help to those who need it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:19:28 +0200
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

Paul said, re: V8...

> still develops good torque so far up the rev band that it often 
overheats
> when working hard in sand. Interestingly when the evil pig of an R6 engine

Its torque peak *is* far up in the rev band, but a tendency to 
overheat is surely a function of cooling system design rather than 
the motor design or a tendency to want to rev high?  When towing 
anything in thick sand with a 4 cylinder petrol, you have to really 
keep the revs up and I've done that all day in a Series vehicle 
without major overheating problems...  The 4 cylinder is capable of 
burning far less fuel per revolution, but perhaps the ratio of cooling 
effect to fuel burnt is better?

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 8:39:33 -0500
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

The heater plug cannot get smashed by the cylinder, as it sits inside a 
preignition chamber. What may have happened is the hot plug has somehow 
been damaged and come loose inside the cylinder bore. In any case, you 
need to pull of the head and inspect the damage. Even if you find nothing 
wrong, you'll have had a very interesting weekend.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:01:18 -0500 
Subject: RE: Snorkel

My snorkel failed the frank Jacobsen / Pine Barrens Quality Control test...
The first few branches killed it off. I now understand why PVC pipe or
something resistant is required !

I did manage to get the hood wet going through some good water... After a
J**p wimped out... This was my first "real" water hazard and I didn't have
to take a stroke. G*D I love these LR's.

The snokel requires to be slightly modified, I need to get about 5$ worth of
PVC ! so the total cost will now be around 80$... 

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 98 06:54:18 -0800
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

>TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
>> I have a question for you.  Why did you pick a petrol engine over a
;>> diesel?
;>> Take care & et me know how the engines work for you.

;>Hi TeriAnn,

;>Wow, I'm amazed I haven't been BBQ'ed yet, if this luck holds I might
;>just pop down to the casino and bet my house on the roulette...

Flying down that valley in front of you I think I took all the SAMs 
leaving it relativly clear for you.

;>The petrol/diesel question comes down to spares availability and ease,
;>and cost, of repair, and also cost of a transplant engine - also to
;>availability of clean diesel to a lesser degree. 

Paul THANKS for the data point. I have been looking at diesels for a 
couple of reasons.  One is fuel economy. one is that I have fantisies of 
long range international travel and assumed that diesel would be easier 
to get than petrol outside North America.  

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:25:29 +0000
Subject: Re: The 2.25 diesel

>So in spirit the diesel came first, but it wasn't a two-and-a-quarter
>until some time after the petrol.

True O King.But it *was* substantially the same engine.

Mike Rooth

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 17:17:39 +0200
Subject: Re: Expedition LRs/design criteria (was overweight & santana 6)

> > This is of
> You're entirely correct. The idea is not to drop the clutch, but with
# increased horsepower you don't have to rev nearly as high to pull away
> under load or maintain momentum when hill climbing.

The problem then becomes that you can put more power in per 
rotation of the gearbox, which means more load on each tooth and 
on those bearings...  I know some really transmission-careful 
drivers (with big engines) who overhaul their gearboxes every 5 
years rather than every 15.  Then again they keep doing that 
because they can overhaul their Series 'box for one fifth of the cost 
of overhauling or buying a later model... but I digress; I was meant 
to be talking about reliability!

> Possibly, but I feel it's worth the risk for me.

Which is fair enough!

> > The 200Tdi is a fantastic engine, but I would hesitate to install one in
> > a stock series vehicle for fear of stuffing the gearbox up.
> Are you meaning 300TDI perhaps? I haven't heard very lavish comments
> being passed on its predecessor before.

The 200Tdi is less powerful, and more smokey, but most of the 
componentry is the same or similar...  Certainly an good engine 
and minor mods such as ?improving intercooling can make it 
excellent.

> > Land Rover made special modifications to the gearboxes of
> > vehicles fitted with larger engines than standard here in SA (they
> > were designated as Series IIIS or R6) - the engines weren't *that*
> Nope, they used a stock Santanna box the daddy of the current 110 and
> Defender boxes.

OK, but that Santana box has mods as indicated i.e. little roller 
thrust bearings instead of flat washers, and other nice gimmicks...  
Specifically to allow it to transmit higher powers for longer periods.

> > with 5 speeds for the a to b functionality, and if it
> Yes, but what?

This is the end-of-all-things question!  How about a ZF automatic 
and chuck in a really big engine?!  If you aren't keen on "one-wheel-
drive" then you'll toss the LT230 transfer 'box and similar.  One 
thing I have heard of is mating a BMW 5 or 7 series gearbox to a 
standard LR transfer case...  But if you're going to do that you may 
as well make an adaptor for an R380 and then you only have a 
problem at the output end.  

To&ota make 4WD truck gearboxes that do the 2/4WD thing and 
are fairly industrial...

> Arrrggg! No. Please, not "permanent 1 wheel drive"...

Why not?  Seems to work OK as long as you lock the diff before 
hitting anything remotely un-solid or rough.

> > Overdrive, and the gearbox would be running at much less than its
> > design load...  
> Me, I'll just leave in the skinny sideshafts and replace them whenever
> necessary.
> Defender boxes.

Sideshafts = fuse?....  Hmmm.  All well and good but those go 
under 'normal' circumstances with a 4 cylinder.

> Great engine, love it! In my shorty, that is, but trying to push an
> expedition vehicle with a wet weight of three and a half tonne up
# mountains and through sand with a 2.286 (petrol or diesel) is enough to
> induce hernias (from trying to push the accelerator through the
# floorboards), and you never quite seem to make your campsite 
by nightfall,
> and the clients really get wound up having to sleep rough EVERY night of a
> three week trip.

If the lack of speed is a problem then you have to do something 
about it (as you have done). If you put enough power through a 'box 
not really built for it then you will have long-term reliability 
problems.  I'm thinking specifically of non-Santana/R6 'boxes.

> > Permanent 4 wheel drive à la Defender would be a boon in terms of
> > non-Salisbury axle life, but some people don't like the kickback
> > from the swivel UJs.
> See above regarding permanent 1 wheel drive.

Still don't get it.  Once it is locked up, the facilities available from 
the drivetrain look the same to me, and the reduced strain on each 
axle under normal circumstances (i.e. towing on-road) is a benefit.  
The centre diff is pretty simple, works even when 90% worn out, 
and everything else is much the same.

> > If I fitted a higher power engine with a Series 'box I'd put a block of
> > wood under the accelerator pedal or otherwise limit the power output;
> > the whole thing would (proabably) be more reliable because the engine's
> > running below design output and the gearbox isn't overstressed.
> Yes, and yes!

...but then you can't use all that lovely power!

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "Lee Dunkelberg" <lee_dunkelberg@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 08:05:38 PST
Subject: Puka

I thought a "Puka" was a large, white rabbit.

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 16:36:51 +0000
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

> The worst offenders seem to be those who have other vehicles and like
>to keep their Land - Rover totally stock.
Well,mine is totally stock,and I havent another vehicle.Mind you,I havent
flamed anyone either(I dont think)...and what follows isnt.
IMO this is bound to happen when any vehicle reaches "classic" status.
There will always be those who want to keep as many as possible "as built"
likewise there will always be "modifiers".
My problem,if I have one,with mods,is that there are times when I really
cant see the point.Change the engine,then the gearbox,because the engine
is too powerful,then the axles,then the suspension,and so on and so forth,
and what have you got? A mongrel.OK,fine,its your motor you do what you
like with it,but at the end of the day you've probably spent more time
and money,particularly money,than you would have spent if you'd gone
out and bought a vehicle more suited to your evident requirements in the
first place.And when you come to sell it,it wont fetch a deal either.
When I bought my 11A SWB diesel,I "evaluated" it to see whether I could
live with its drawbacks,and decided I could.In other words,I "evaluated"
the thing as it stood,*not* as it could be if I modified it.Since I've
had it twelve years now,I suppose I was correct in my assessment.
Trouble is,I'm old enough to have seen all this before.How many good
old pre-war cars got modded out of all reason,so there were fewer and
fewer of them left?And suddenly you look around and realise that you
havent seen one for years.There are,after all,a finite number of series
vehicles about.It particularly grieves me to see Series Ones chopped
about,and one of the staff of LROI came in for some vicious flak when
he was proposing to turn the mag's late 11A into a trialler.
I suppose I shouldnt grumble.This happened to Austin Sevens years ago.
And the people that gained were those that kept theirs standard.The
resale prices skyrocketed.Not that the resale price of mine is likely
to,but its the only vehicle I've ever had that hasnt depreciated.(Much).
What I *really* object to though,is people modding motors and slagging
Land Rover off for their engines/gearboxes at al as though they were being
offered as current designs.That,in my view,just isnt on.
NOT a flame,just a viewpoint.From someone who has recently seen a very
tidy 11a SWB butchered by the substitution of a Ford 2.3 diesel for its
original and sweet sounding 2 1/4 petrol.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 17:47:31 +0200
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

> Paul THANKS for the data point. I have been looking at diesels for a
# couple of reasons.  One is fuel economy. one is that I have fantisies of
> long range international travel and assumed that diesel would be easier to
# get than petrol outside North America.  

TeriAnn to your list of diesel benefits, add safety if it's not there 
already...  I'd much rather carry 250 litres of "heavy oil" than petrol.  
What rammed this home to me was a diesel workshop in the UK, 
where the guy was smoking whilst he set my injectors - I couldn't 
believe that the fine mist didn't ignite.

Anywhere there are ships, trucks, farmers, military or construction 
there is usually cheap diesel.  If it has water in it you can leave it to 
settle and use the diesel off the top.  Most muck also settles out 
quite nicely.  It takes a day or so, but if you're careful you shouldn't 
have too much trouble.  There is stuff you can chuck in the tank 
which "emulsifies" a certain amount of water allowing you to pass 
small amounts through the injection pump.  Can't remember what 
it's called, though.

Whilst diesel engines are fussy about gunge and particulate 
matter, they will run on *really* low-grade fuel as long as it is clean. 
Romainan diesel plus 2.286 diesels resulted in a 25% decrease in 
top speed, a need to retard the ignition, and green smoke, but the 
engines still ran smoothly.  Not sure if a direct-injection diesel 
engine would be different?

In my experience, Paul is right; all gas stations have petrol.  Not all 
have diesel, esp. in Southern Africa.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 98 09:41:08 -0800
Subject: 200tdi hot rodding?

One of the engines I have narrowed my search down to is a 200 tdi.  It is 
the last of the Rover diesels with mechanical fuel distribution.  It 
comes rated at 107 BHP.

If one wanted another 15 or so BHP out of the engine without destroying 
it's reliability and low RPM performance how would one go about it?  
Larger dia low restriction exhaust? cam? larger capacity turbo?

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 98 09:43:48 -0800
Subject: LD28 question

One of the engines I have narrowed my search down to is the Nissan LD28 6 
cylinder diesel.

It put out around 96 BHP normally asperated.  Anyone know what would need 
to be done to fit the engine with an intercooled turbo??

Thanks

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 07:50:38 -1000
Subject: Re: Puka

>I thought a "Puka" was a large, white rabbit.

I thought it was how someone spent January 1st?
Aloha Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 07:56:24 -1000
Subject: Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

>If one wanted another 15 or so BHP out of the engine without destroying
>it's reliability and low RPM performance how would one go about it?
>Larger dia low restriction exhaust? cam? larger capacity turbo?

Not sure, yes, yes.
I have been told recently that the larger exhaust will improve upper RPM
band HP but may diminish lower band torque with petrol engines.
Really need to talk to an engine builder to find out exactly what would be
needed, but changes to the lift and duration of the cam lobes can change
engine performance throughout the band.
Turbo could improve performance, but I believe it would also increase heat
and likely hood of breakdown
My .02
Pete

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:02:55 EST
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

In a message dated 98-11-09 08:52:38 EST, you write:

<< The heater plug cannot get smashed by the cylinder, as it sits inside a 
 preignition chamber.  >>

...Perhaps that is why my truck smokes so much: I can look into the heater
plug and injector holes, and clearly see the pistons! Maybe my hot spots are
gone? Not sure, since I know they're still in place - I think. (no piston /
cylinder damage)

Charles

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From: "Braman Wing" <bcw6@hotmail.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 10:16:24 PST
Subject: Coil Conversions

I am planning a coil conversion for my IIA 88", and I was wondering if 
anyone had any general thoughts/experience to offer. Since I want to 
replace my frame, add parabolic springs and disc brakes and rebuild both 
my axles anyway, the added cost of going to coils does not seem all that 
bad. Does anyone know what the relative merits of Desiga frames vs. 
Walker frames are? What about RR vs. Defender axles and suspension? In 
the US, I would assume that RR axles would be easier to source. Thanks 
in advance for any info,

Braman
1966 IIA 88"

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From: David <David_R@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 13:13:16 -0500
Subject: LRO archive expert 

Does anyone remember the last time the thread about "tools you carry in
your Land Rover" ran?

I don't want to re-visit it, just narrow my search.

Thanks.

David Russell
1997 Discovey SD 5-speed
1969 SIIA "Bugeye" 88" SW Petrol, green; in progress
1965+/- SIIA 109" P/U Diesel
1977 Toyota FJ40 Land Cruiser (sort of)
http://www.mindspring.com/~david_r

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ]
From: "Wilson, Scott" <Scott.Wilson@viacom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:37:00 -0500 
Subject: RE: LRO archive expert 

> Does anyone remember the last time the thread about "tools you carry in
> your Land Rover" ran?
> I don't want to re-visit it, just narrow my search.

I think terriann has her list on her website. if you don't find it in the
search engine (good luck), then you should check out that site.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman

-Scott

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <Scott.Wilson@viacom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:48:45 -0500 
Subject: test - sorry...

testing

sorry guys.

-Scott

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 13:59:02 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

In a message dated 11/9/98 2:04:05 PM, you wrote:

<<Really need to talk to an engine builder to find out exactly what would be
needed,>>

I'll second that.

I'll also add that turbo engine hop-ups are usually accompanied by an increase
in the size and capacity of the intercooler, which is something for a S2a-
fronted rover owner to think about. I don't know what kind of front the Green
Rover (tm) has, but it would have to accomodate a radiator/intercooler
arrangement, and possibly a larger intercooler if the engine will be hopped
up.

Gee, a *stock* TDI would be gobs more power/torque than is available now...
why not put it in, wait and see. Who knows what'll be enough?

.02

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[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/mixed; ]
From: "Wilson, Scott" <Scott.Wilson@viacom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:02:57 -0500 
Subject: RE: test - sorry... one more 

> testing
> sorry guys.
> -Scott

one more... just to make sure... there was a bunch of
jibberish last time, and I want to nip it in the bud.

-Scott

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 15:15:37 -0500
Subject: Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

At 09:41 09/11/98 -0800, you wrote:
>One of the engines I have narrowed my search down to is a 200 tdi.  It is 
>the last of the Rover diesels with mechanical fuel distribution.  

Last before the 300 that is. At least when it was released.
Allan

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:13:02 -0500
Subject: Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

If one wanted another 15 or so BHP out of the engine without destroying 
it's reliability and low RPM performance how would one go about it?  

One would turn the screw that controls boost on the turbo. WHAMMO!
These things are set up to 
lowest-common-denominator-real-world-all-around conditions. If you want 
more power, turn the fun screw. If it doesn't have one, scrap it and get 
one that does! ZOOM ZOOMM! (some can be controlled by a knob on the 
dash....whoohoo) Hmm let's see what happens at 45 lbs of boost.....

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:13:30 -1000
Subject: Front Springs

Aloha,
My '70 88" had one of its front spring broken in an accident.  The vehicle
has a Koenig PTO winch on the front (approx 260lbs) and I am going to be
putting a bullbar on the front also.  Because of this added weight should I
go to a heaveir spring?  I know that the springs from a 109 will bolt on to
the 88.  The parts catalogs I have only show these two different front
springs.  Should I look somewhere else?
Because cost is an issue I am not considering parabolics at this time.  But
with the added weight do I even want to consider parabolics?
Aloha
Pete

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 11:36:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Overloaded Rovers

Hello,
        My search for an old Rover ended when I bought a '73 SWB.  I
searched for a 109 for some time to build into the "ultimate expedition rig"
but couldn't find one in my price range.  In the year or so I've owned the
88 inch (my third Rover) I haven't once lamented the missing 21 inchs.
        My expedition mods include a snorkel (mainly for dust - this mod
gets snickers as well at Rover meets) and a second fuel tank (18gallons)
under the drivers seat.  I've lived out of the back of the thing for 3 week
trips in places like Baja (150 miles on dirt alone and didn't see a soul)
and various mainland Mexico destinations, as well as US camping trips.  Two
weeks is the longest I've camped relying entirely on what the 88' carried
(Baja).  I carry tools, a spares pack, tow rope, high-lift jack, quality
sleeping bag, a tent, 12.5 gallons of water, food, small cooker,  clothes,
shovel, axe, water purifyer, tyre patch kit, knife, sun shower.
        My advice, climb in the back of your overloaded rig and heave ho
alot of that crap out. Your Rover will thank you for it with better fuel
economy as well as less bitching and moaning when articulating.  Best of
all, the 2.25 will be more willing.  Just a thought.......      

                                                         Henry Stinson
                                                        '73 SWB SHED

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:04:06 EST
Subject: 200tdi hot rodding-turbo fun (no LR)

In a message dated 98-11-09 14:19:28 EST, you write:

<<  If you want 
 more power, turn the fun screw. If it doesn't have one, scrap it and get 
 one that does! ZOOM ZOOMM! (some can be controlled by a knob on the 
 dash....whoohoo) Hmm let's see what happens at 45 lbs of boost..... >>

This reminds me of the glory days of IndyCar racing.  The turbos were not
controlled for practice, so the mechanics would set it at the "legal" level of
boost before pop-off.
Then the head mechaninc would come over and give it a screw or three, just to
get a little bit extra to scare the competition.  Then the car owner would
drop by and give it a screw when noone was looking.  Then the driver would
fiddle with it before he got in the car...
   The car would go like crazy until "BBOOOOOOOMMMMMMMM!!!!"

Enzo (45 lbs will most likely ruin your day)

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:05:15 -0500
Subject: C.A. relief adventure...

I'm sure all of you have seen the devastation that Hurricane Mitch 
brought to the central american region. I too have been watching and 
wondering what I can do to help. Donating food and clothing is all well 
and good, but at the moment, there is a lack of on-the-ground 
distribution due to destruction of roads and bridges. Trucks are unable 
to get to the interior and helicopters seem to be the only way in or out 
of some areas.
I hope that we might be able to get a collection of Land Rovers together 
for a two-week excursion to the region during which time we might try to 
reestablish supply routes to some of the hard-hit areas and bring relief 
to those isolated by the storm. 
I want to get corporate sponsorship to cover the cost of shipping the 
trucks and the necessary supplies to Honduras. LRNA, Garmin GPS, Some 
major food distributors, ADM, Ahold, and whoever else we can think of 
ought to throw into the pot to help defray the costs and supply some 
equipment. I need someone to help me manage this project and help with 
the coordination of resources. Please contact me at your earliest 
convenience and let me know if you can help. I don't want to just sit by 
when I have the ability and the tools to get help to those who need it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Rick Grant <rgrant@cadvision.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 13:46:08 -0700
Subject: Re: C.A. relief adventure...

At 03:05 PM 09/11/98 -0500, Adams, Bill, wrote
>I'm sure all of you have seen the devastation that Hurricane Mitch 
>brought to the central american region.

Bill, that's a good and worthy idea but I would like to offer a few bits of
advice learned first hand as a relief worker during the humanitarian
disasters in Ethiopia, Somalia, and Bosnia.

One of the largest problems for the humanitarian agencies in disaster areas
is the well meaning but uncoordinated efforts of private relief initiatives.
They invariably cause problems if they are not part of the overall relief
operation.

The general principle on the delivery of food clothing and supplies into a
community or region is, if you can't give something to everyone then don't
give anything until you can.  To do otherwise is to precipitate civil unrest
if not outright riots.

Security is always a major concern in disasters.  They tend to bring out the
worst in some people and roving gangs preying on small undefended relief
efforts are just about the rule.  If one cannot guarantee the safety of
one's people then the rule is not to go into an area.

For these reasons and a host of others I would suggest that you take your
idea to one of the large aid groups, UNHCR, CARE USA, Save the Children etc
and offer to operate under their aegis.  This would give your group the
protection of operating under a well known name (huge flags on relief
vehicles are very necessary for safety) give you access to the overall radio
net that will be tying in all the aid groups (safety again), provide a base
to operate from, and would ensure that your relief efforts would be applied
in the most effective manner.

Another thing you might consider is the offer of logistic and mechanical
expertise.  Just keeping vehicles moving efficiently and at all is a big
problem in a disaster area and relief agencies spend a lot of time and
resources just on that aspect alone.

Just some thoughts that might help.

                                                         Rick Grant

Cobra Media Communications, Calgary Canada
www.cadvision.com/rgrant
rgrant@cadvision.com

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:18:12 -0600
Subject: Diesels Temperature

Good afternoon everybody.

I have a question, not LR specific, but general mechanics.

What should be the normal operation temperature of a diesel engine (in
Centigrade)? Does this depends on the specific engine to determine (which I
doubt), or it is a general issue of diesels?

The temp gauge that I have, and works, is of course an after thing. It reads
in C' but I really dont know what the limits are.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 98 13:23:19 -0800
Subject: Re: Overloaded Rovers

> My search for an old Rover ended when I bought a '73 SWB.  I
>searched for a 109 for some time to build into the "ultimate expedition rig"
;>but couldn't find one in my price range.  In the year or so I've owned 
the
;>88 inch (my third Rover) I haven't once lamented the missing 21 inchs.
;>        My expedition mods include a snorkel (mainly for dust - this mod
;>gets snickers as well at Rover meets) and a second fuel tank (18gallons)
;>under the drivers seat.  I've lived out of the back of the thing for 3 
week
;>trips in places like Baja (150 miles on dirt alone and didn't see a 
soul)
;>and various mainland Mexico destinations, as well as US camping trips.  
Two
;>weeks is the longest I've camped relying entirely on what the 88' 
carried
;>(Baja).  I carry tools, a spares pack, tow rope, high-lift jack, quality
;>sleeping bag, a tent, 12.5 gallons of water, food, small cooker,  
clothes,
;>shovel, axe, water purifyer, tyre patch kit, knife, sun shower.
;>        My advice, climb in the back of your overloaded rig and heave ho
;>alot of that crap out. Your Rover will thank you for it with better fuel
;>economy as well as less bitching and moaning when articulating.  Best of
;>all, the 2.25 will be more willing.  Just a thought.......      

I like to hear from experienced people.

Letsee If I leave in the stuff you mentioned, and added a tent that I do 
not carry.

I would toss out: a winch, a pickaxe, camera system, folding cot, rear 
folding LR jump seat, second battery, CB, first aid kit, burn kit, 
emergency signal kit, fire extinguisher, 10L jerry can with 90 wt (my 
transmission & OD leaks a lot), grease gun, 8 qts of engine oil with 
spare oil filter, two 8 watt florescent lamps (replace with larger and 
heavier propane lantern) a small plastic sink and a small stainless steel 
sink (and replace them with two buckets for washing dishes) Lots of dog 
food & large dog, Three metal storage cabinets (replace them with an 
assorment of big plastic bins that bounce around inside the car & take up 
a lot more space), chest refrigerator (replace with a much larger ice 
chest and a lot of blocks of ice), 15 gallon sheet stainless steel water 
container that sits under the body (replace with 3 plastic water cans 
that take up space inside the car and raises the center of gravity) and 
porta pottie (sorry that stays,  Consider that a girl thing).  I'm 
assuming that you are carrying cooking and eating utensels.  Otherwise I 
carry about the same stuff.

Instead of a solar shower, I carry a small shower tent that I set up when 
I take a shower.  That stays.  Consider not wanting to take a shower in 
the open to be another girl thing.

Looking at your list and comparing it to what I take I think that they 
are fairly similar.  I seem to have a lot more emergency stuff and like 
to take food that needs to be kept cold.

I find that a refrigerator allows me to carry more food in a smaller 
space and keep it cold for a much longer time than a big ice chest full 
of ice would.  

My metal cabinets are a lot heavier than a bunch of plastic tubs but they 
keep everything organized, out of the way and in place.  Before I made my 
conversion I used to use plastic tubs.  I strapped them down with bungie 
cords and frequently found them flying around inside and poping open 
during rough off road sections.  I have never had that problem with 
bolted in cabinets and find I can put my clothes, food, sleeping bag and 
other stuff into a smaller area than I could with lose boxes.

I used to take a tent to sleep in.  I hated trying to set it up during 
major storms in high winds.  Stowing a rain soaked tent with a thick 
layer of wet clay on the underside was not my idea of fun ether.  
Especially setting it up again the next night.  I found that I would 
rather cut my trips short or stay home rather then deal with setting up 
camp outside during storms.

Back when my LR was a working farm vehecle, I insisted that all the 
camping gear be quickly removable.  I made extensive use of plastic 
totes, jerry cans, tarps and a tent.  It took up a lot more interior 
space.  It took me a lot longer to set up camp.  I ended up timing my 
trips for good weather and coming back early when it got bad.

The biggest single adavntage that I think I have over your set up is that 
I can easily and comfortably camp in just about any weather condition 
with only being exposed to the elements for a minute or two.  My camping 
environment, clothes, sleeping bag and everything else stays clean and 
dry.  I don't know about you but I find that I enjoy trips more if I'm 
comfortable.  I find I get more concerned with comfort each decade.

I guess I traded the extra weight from the metal cabinets, folding cot 
and fiberglass pop up roof for the ability to pack stuff more densly so 
the dog has space and for the ability to set up a dry camp quickly in 
just about any weather.  To that I added a lot of safety/recovery gear 
and added a couple of girl conviences.

Thanks for your input!

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 98 13:27:25 -0800
Subject: Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

>>One of the engines I have narrowed my search down to is a 200 tdi.  It is 
>>the last of the Rover diesels with mechanical fuel distribution.  
'
'>Last before the 300 that is. At least when it was released.

It is my understanding that the 300 has an electronic injection 
system??????

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:31:39 -0600
Subject: Mud and more Mud

This weekend was full of mud action all aroud. Went to the house of a friend
in a relatively close but difficult to reach area. The road, that for starts
wasn't in any tip top condition, had transformed due to Mitch's action, in a
complete, absolut, and extreemly deep mud field.

When I reached there I had my doubts about how well the tires/tyres would
perform in really muddy conditions. Well, I got my answer: Incredibly Great.
Flawless, through belly-touching-deep mud.

There were only three cars inside: my little mutant and a couple FJ40's.

I really enjoyed it. Specially the not-getting-stuck part. I was in the
middle of the night, in the middle of the rain , AND in the middle of
nowhere, so it would have been a rather difficult experience to get stuck
there.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 08:40:39 +1000
Subject: Electric cooling fans

sorry about the delay in responding - I've been away and am only just going
through my old mail

if you want to be really keen why not put two 12" fans on one side (outside
Pulling) and the 16" on the other (inside pushing)  -   lots of money but
lots of airflow

on my old 110 it had the engine fan on the inside (pulling) and twin
electrics on the outside connected to the aircon circuitary (sp?) (pushing)

From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Sun, 01 Nov 1998 19:11:54 -0500
Subject: Electric cooling fans
Now that I'm wrapping up the exterior of the hybrid (paint, wheel
arch extensions. etc), I'm ready to start waterproofing the engine.  I
need some advice on what to do about the radiator.
    Because I have no shroud and want to do some wading in the future, I
think that electric fan(s) will be the way to go.(float switch)
    The measurements of my radiator are 24" wide X 16" tall.  The
electric units come in 12, 14, and 16 inch sizes.  I can either use one
16" unit and leave 4" on each side, or go with two 12" units and cover
the entire width but leave 2" on the top and bottom (or leave 4" on
either the top or bottom)
    Would one 16" unit handle the 3.5 V-8 or should I go with two 12"
units?  I'm leaning toward the two 12"  because  I'd rather be safe than
sorry and also because I live in south Ga. (ran it hard in 100 deg./99%
hum. w/ engine fan and no shroud and didn't run hot, though.....)
    Any pro's/con's on the electric fans?
--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464                      19?? RR/SIIA/SIII 100" Hybrid (almost
finished)
Americus, GA 31709                 1967  NADA 109" SW (almost rusted
sway)
912-924-6513 (H)                      1995 RR County  Classic
912-942-3855 (CELL)

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 14:37:05 -0800
Subject: what a sight

It was a sight to behold, An 88" pulling an armored car up a slick snowy
hill. Of course it was carrying money of which a small portion would be
my paycheck. If only I had a picture.

Jim Hall 
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 15:42:23 -0600
Subject: Battery's Amps

I went shopping for a battery today. One woke up dead, and I had been told
before that it would die any minute (the mutant has two, not because it
needed extra-power for something but because the engine is a 24V version,
(alternator and stater)).

I became confused with amp rattings for the batteries. I saw batteries rated
form 60 to 100 amps. I went for the biggest one that would fit. In batteries
I was told bigger was better (?).
Well,  the battery I had left in the car is a Champion battery, and I tried
to find out how many amps it could put out.
The only thing it read about amps was that it had "925 cranking amps."
Whats that?
Am I missing something here?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 14:54:46 -0700
Subject: Re: C.A. relief adventure...

Bill,

I'm much of the same mind as yourself. However, I too agree with the gent
who causions aginst running in blind. Rick makes some strong and good
points. I'd be willing to give time, effort, and travel with my vehicle if
it is wanted. I live in CO and agree that transport of the vehicles to the
region would be best.

Let me know on my direct email: jwrover@colo-net.com

Yours'

K. john Wood
Solihull Society-President
'79 SIII D 109

Adams, Bill wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 14:57:00 -0700
Subject: Re: Mud and more Mud

Luis,

Perhaps you cought the post from Bill in CA. It would be interesting to get your
perspective on the honduran situation as you are a bit closer and more familiar
with custom of the region.

Thanks,

John Wood

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:08:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Battery's Amps

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:
> I went shopping for a battery today. One woke up dead, and I had been told
> before that it would die any minute (the mutant has two, not because it
> needed extra-power for something but because the engine is a 24V version,
> (alternator and stater)).
> I became confused with amp rattings for the batteries. I saw batteries rated
> form 60 to 100 amps. I went for the biggest one that would fit. In batteries
> I was told bigger was better (?).
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> Whats that?
> Am I missing something here?
Batteries are rated in two ways. The reserve capacity which tells how
much energy is stored and is measured in amp hours. Then there is the 
cranking capacity which is a measure of how quickly the battery can
release the stored energy and is quoted as the Cold Cranking Capacity.
Generally a large battery will have a greater Amp Hour rating but a
small could have a high CCC rating however it could not sustain that CCC
for very long. Conclusion; a large battery with a high CCC rating is
what will work best for you. The numbers of 60 to 100 you mention are
the amp hour figures.
  You would be well advised to change both batteries at the same time
and they should be identical so that they charge evenly This will ensure
the longest service life and the best performance. The only time when it
doesn't matter about replacing batteries in pairs is with a split charge
system such as might be found in campers or some winch setups.
  John and Muddy

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From: "Jeff and Chris Jackson" <jcjcj88@email.msn.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 17:33:03 -0800
Subject: Heaters

That time again.  Yesterday my stock SIII heater was blowing hard as a
babies' breath and half as warm.  Then I found out that the air hose had
popped halfway off the blower motor, so today was better.  But not much.

I'm thinking of springing for a kodiak.   Oddly enough, I may be moving to
Kodiak next year, so I probably should.  But being cheap, I'm also wondering
about the 12 volt aux heaters that I see by JC Whitney, Northern Hydraulics
etc.
Anyone have experience with these electric aux heaters?   Worth the money,
or would I be better off burning the forty bucks?

And does anyone have a Kodiak htr they'd like to trade away or sell at
reasonable cost?

TIA,
Jeff

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:24:34 -0000
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

no problems finding diesel in Europe or the UK...

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+
            I !__|  [_]|_\___
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:15:10 -0500
Subject: Re: Expedition LRs/design criteria (was overweight & santana 6)

Paul Oxley wrote:

> > had a centre diff, so much the better.
> Arrrggg! No. Please, not "permanent 1 wheel drive"...

Assuming open differentials in both axles, you have a choice of 1 wheel
drive or 2 wheel drive with a part time transfer case. With a lockable
center diff in the transfer case you also have the choice of 1 wheel
drive or 2 wheel drive.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 14:28:41 -0500 
Subject: Re: LRO archive expert

I believe the last time it came up was january.  I have bits of it archived
on a machine that I cannot get to from here.  If you want, I can get you the
exact dates tonight or tomorrow. 

david
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:32:44 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

In a message dated 11/9/98 3:19:28 PM, you wrote:

<<One would turn the screw that controls boost on the turbo. WHAMMO!
These things are set up to 
lowest-common-denominator-real-world-all-around conditions. >>

Often found on the wastegate. There are diiferent spring rates one can put in
to change the max boost allowable...

They are also set up the way they are so you won't melt pistons and bend con-
rods... futzing with it also means you have to use top grade petrol. Don't
know about diesel. One may have to increase the volume of diesel injected to
keep the piston tops cool, but I don't really know about the diesel hop ups.

.02

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 16:33:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Expedition Rovers

Hello,
        Perhaps I should qualify my previous remarks, they were written more
in the spirit of humour then criticism.  I've been to some Rover events in
the past and always get a kick out of the different approaches taken to
camping.  Some sleep in a sleeping bag under the stars while others set up a
tent, put in sleeping cots, then set up the coleman twin burner stove.
        I tend to be towards the minimalist end of the spectrum (hence my
choice in transportation) and therefore assure myself in moments of weakness
that I am doing it right through my odd sense of humour.  While picking my
way through a cold can of Spaghetti-O's on a frigid night what else can one
do but poke fun at those having chicken in a Cajun sauce.
        My brother went to this years Cortland NY event (blue two door Range
Rover) and sent some pictures back of your truck Teriann.  It appears you've
done a great job making a small space very comfortable.  After some trips I
still look for ways to set up a bed in the SWB.  Setting a tent up in the
rain sucks.  As does driving on and on at 1:00 at night on a dirt track
passing places that would be great to pull over and sleep in a truck but
aren't suitable for a night in a tent.
        I've yet to run a trip in my opinion worthy of being termed an
expedition.  I hope to one day drive to Southern Mexico and Central America
to visit the Mayan sites I've so far only read about.  For such a trip I am
sure I'd pack a little heavier.  Nobody I know will join me though.  Word
spreads fast when you take a friend camping in Baja for a four day weekend
with a cooker, 5 gallons of water, one pot, a box of granola bars and three
cans of spaghetti for food.  Come to think of it I am not the one to listen
to....       
                                                        Henry Stinson
                                                        '73 SWB SHED

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 21:34:43 -0500
Subject: Re: 300Tdi

TeriAnn wrote in response to the 200 thing:
>It is my understanding that the 300 has an electronic injection 
>system??????

Not all. I have a non-electronic 1995 300 Tdi.  While I was in the UK a
couple of weeks ago doing an LR bloody knuckles training course I included
a good going over of the tricks for an optimum procedure for a  good old
timing belt change. 
However, page 767 of  my LR 90 Parts Catalogue shows "electronic control
unit ECU for EGR, located under front centre seat....". Apparently later
300's.
Allan 

Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute (CANARI)
Vieux Fort, St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel. + 758 454 6060  Fax. + 758 454 5188

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From: Lorri Paustian <lorri@sound.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 17:59:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: C.A. relief adventure...

Bill,
Damon Schimming from our local club has emailed several of us and mentioned
trying to do the same thing.  You might want to email him and put your
efforts together.  His email address is:
DamonKC@email.msn.com

At 08:35 AM 11/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>I hope that we might be able to get a collection of Land Rovers together 
>for a two-week excursion to the region during which time we might try to 
>reestablish supply routes to some of the hard-hit areas and bring relief 
>to those isolated by the storm. 

Lorri Paustian, Flatland Rover Society
Lenexa, Kansas
'95 Coniston Green D90 SW
'95 Arles Blue D90 SW
'93 D110

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:29:51 -0600
Subject: 20.00 Camper modification

Hi All,
 Well for anyone wanting an option which would make sleeping in your 88
possible I think I found it.
 The Sportsman Guide is offering a swiss streacher which folds up short
enough to fit in the back of an 88.  It is well made & light.  when in
place it fits from the rear door to just short of the front
vents.handles extend to reach the vents if you want..  I just like the
option & am in noway connected to the seller or product.

I thought this was to convient & easy to modify so I am sharing it with
the list.

Regards,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 21:25:16 EST
Subject: Re:  The prince is back

In a message dated 11/8/98 6:08:52 PM, you wrote:

<<the P.O.D. raised his ugly head today.  The alternator light is winking at
me periodically, unrelated to engine RPM.  The voltmeter (analog) says the
alternator is putting out a steady 13.8 volts.  All other guages and
operations are nominal.  Belt is fine/tight.  Ideas?>>

A winking light?

I guess it could happen if the light really fancied you...

Or maybe a loose lead leading to the light?

--pat.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 18:52:21 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: The prince is back

At 09:25 PM 11/9/98 EST, Pat <SPYDERS@aol.com> wrote:
>A winking [alternator] light?
>I guess it could happen if the light really fancied you...
>Or maybe a loose lead leading to the light?

 What are you say here, the light should really be on
 all the time?

-Michael

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 21:56:50 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The prince is back

On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Michael Carradine wrote:

:>A winking [alternator] light?
:>I guess it could happen if the light really fancied you...
:>Or maybe a loose lead leading to the light?
:
: What are you say here, the light should really be on
: all the time?

A short in the lead from the idiot light to the alternator light would
cause the lamp to glow.

david

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:00:51 EST
Subject: Re: Mud and more Mud

Luis, I salute you!  That devil may care. "let's get there!" is a part of what
Rovers are about Mixes included.  What was your plan if you had broken a
halfshaft?

Zack Arbios
Narizon'

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:03:55 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: The prince is back

In a message dated 11/9/98 10:57:56 PM, you wrote:

<<:>A winking [alternator] light?
:>I guess it could happen if the light really fancied you...
:>Or maybe a loose lead leading to the light?
:
: What are you say here, the light should really be on
: all the time?

A short in the lead from the idiot light to the alternator light would
cause the lamp to glow.>>

And wouldn't a cut lead do the same thing? It would see that the alt wasn't
putting out current/voltage?

Just curious.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 19:58:48 -0800
Subject: Re: Heaters

Jeff and Chris Jackson wrote:
 
=> I'm thinking of springing for a kodiak.   Oddly enough, I may be
moving to
=> Kodiak next year, so I probably should.  But being cheap, I'm also
wondering
=> about the 12 volt aux heaters that I see by JC Whitney, Northern
Hydraulics
=> etc.
=> Anyone have experience with these electric aux heaters?   Worth the
money,
=> or would I be better off burning the forty bucks?

I just bought one and mounted it to my wiper motor to help defrost the
windscreen. It works good for that, but I wouldn't want to heat the
interior with one. It draws quite a bit of current, I'm guessing 15 to
20 amps, so I'm going to have to do some rewiring. I don't know what a
kodiak works like, but if it is even 15% better than a smith's shin
roaster I would get one instead. My aux heater was $30, but soon after I
saw the same one for $13. If you get one, don't pay $40.

Jim Hall

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:07:25 EST
Subject: Re: Expedition Rovers

Henry,
Move to the other (this) coast, you have more kindred spirits than you know
of.  Just don't piss TWA off and you'll be OK.

Zack Arbios
Not Pissing TWA off.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 22:10:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Heaters

This was my solution to the heater problem.  I use the stock heater to run the
defrost vents only.  Then I went to a friend's salvage yard (who has an Austin
America, if anyone needs parts), and found really BA heater out of an old
forward control Ford van.  It's a self contained unit  with temp and speed
contols built into it.  Mounts in between the front seats on the rear bulkhead.
Two vents blow toward the back, two vents down to the footsies!

Jeff and Chris Jackson wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:14:37 EST
Subject: Re:  Diesels Temperature

In a message dated 11/9/98 5:22:47 PM, you wrote:

<<Good afternoon everybody.

I have a question, not LR specific, but general mechanics.

What should be the normal operation temperature of a diesel engine (in
Centigrade)? Does this depends on the specific engine to determine (which I
doubt), or it is a general issue of diesels?

The temp gauge that I have, and works, is of course an after thing. It reads
in C' but I really dont know what the limits are.>>

Hi luis, in *general terms*, there are two different temps, oil & water...

I don't know what your guage is connected to.

The water temp should be something like 180F or below boiling (duh!).  water
boils at 212F, and I don't know the conversion.

The oil temp can, but doesn't necessarily have to be: 214-218F, or slightly
above boiling point for *water*, so that any water vapour or condensate in the
oil can boil-off. This is just something that is acceptable, not necessarily
what your oil temp will be. Some engines have oil coolers, etc., and some
don't need it.

Your best bet is to find out from a Toyota dealer what the numbers are for
your particular engine...

--pat.

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:16:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re:  Re: The prince is back

On Mon, 9 Nov 1998 SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:

:
:A short in the lead from the idiot light to the alternator light would
:cause the lamp to glow.>>
:
:And wouldn't a cut lead do the same thing? It would see that the alt wasn't
:putting out current/voltage?

No, it wouldn't.  The light only lights when there is current flowing
through it.  If the lead is cut, there isn't a circuit for the Lucas
electron to get back to the battery.  If there is a short to ground on the
alternator side of the lamp current will flow from the battery to the
short, and thus through the lamp, causing it light.  If there is a short
on the battery side of the lamp current will flow from the battery to the
short, and not cause the lamp to light.  

David

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:19:12 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Expedition Rovers

In a message dated 11/9/98 11:09:18 PM, you wrote:

<< Just don't piss TWA off and you'll be OK.>>

That's ok, I only fly ValuJet ;-)

To paraphrase Howard Stern: So, how much is the airfare from JFK to just off
the Long Island Coast?? 

How'd this thread turn into an airline one?

Q: What did one one shark say to the other after the TWA crash?

A: That wasn't a bad meal for an economy seat...

-

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:22:26 EST
Subject: Re:  Re:  Re: The prince is back

In a message dated 11/9/98 11:18:52 PM, you wrote:

<<The light only lights when there is current flowing
through it. >>

Duh! Past my bedtime.

<<If the lead is cut, there isn't a circuit for the Lucas
electron to get back to the battery.>>

I lost my poor 'lectron, when somebody sneezed...
it flowed out of the wire and onto the floor...

Thanks for the insight. I need rest. (and some would say professional help,
too.)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:25:54 -0800
Subject: Re: Diesels Temperature

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> Hi luis, in *general terms*, there are two different temps, oil & water...
> I don't know what your guage is connected to.

Probably to his reverse lights :0

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 20:35:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Diesels Temperature

Let's try this again Major

 
 SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
 >
 > Hi luis, in *general terms*, there are two different temps, oil &
water...
 >
 > I don't know what your guage is connected to.

 Probably to his reverse lights :0

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:03:50 EST
Subject: Re: stop light switches.

In a message dated 98-11-07 12:36:07 EST, you write:

 My hydraulicly operated stop light switch has stopped switching.  Is there
 some other LBC that uses the same switch?  I would like to get one today,
 as I actually have time and daylight at the same time. 
 
 david "for once the probelem with the brakes isn't that they dont' work"
 Scheidt
  >>
You can probably find a generic switch that will fit at NAPA for about $5.
Take the old one along for comparison.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:12:52 EST
Subject: Re: Overweight Rovers - was Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

In a message dated 98-11-07 13:29:40 EST, you write:

 So we have 2 different versions of the  6.2/6.5 engine out there?  One for
 the Gov. and another for the "rest of us"?  I'd really like to know because
 this is the engine setup that I was about to start seriously investigating
 for myself...
 
 Russ Wilson
 Leslie Bittner
  >>
I think the only real difference is all of the additional pieces added to the
civvy models. The engine should be the same when all of that crap is in the
dumpster.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 22:14:32 -0600
Subject: Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
>If one wanted another 15 or so BHP out of the engine without destroying
>it's reliability and low RPM performance how would one go about it?
>Larger dia low restriction exhaust? cam? larger capacity turbo?

Going with a larger turbo is a last resort well after you have maxed out the
flow of the original turbo.  Most turbos will not be maxed out due to the
stock boost levels set from the factory which will be well below this
threshold.  Remember that bigger turbos will typically mean more lag.

The cheapest modification will be to increase the factory boost from stock
levels.  Buy a valve (from Grainger for example), to bleed off the signal to
the wastegate.  The factory wastegate's spring will open at a preset level
(8psi for example), and what you're doing is simply letting the wastegate
"see" less boost, but the turbo itself will put out more than the stock
level now.  You should not attempt to increase boost until you have a boost
gauge.  I have heard of people using $1.95 fish-tank bleeder valves to do
this, but they sometimes melt if you use the cheap plastic ones. :-)  When
you increase boost, you'll then need to improve flow out of the engine (and
decrease backpressure), so you'll then want to improve the plumbing on the
exhaust side.  Then improve the intake, etc.

I have a '91 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 which is running 19psi of boost via an
electronic boost controller.  It also has an upgraded fuel-pump, intake and
exhaust modifications galore, and boost and exhaust gas temperature gauges,
to let me know if I'm close to melting any pistons. :-)  The turbo on the
car is the "sport upgrade" turbo, meaning it flows more than the factory
turbo and is more efficient (ie: cooler air charge).  The stock turbo was
good for about 290hp, and this one (I've been told) is good for about up to
350 or so.

Vel Natarajan

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 18:44:55
Subject: Re: Mud and more Mud

Did Costa Rica escape the hurricane or just not get it as bad as those
south of you????  Really a sad situation in Nicaragua.  Sounds like you
came through with only a chance to test your mud driving skills.  What
tires are you running, by the way???
Aloha Peter

At 03:31 PM 11/9/98 -0600, you wrote:
>This weekend was full of mud action all aroud. Went to the house of a friend
>in a relatively close but difficult to reach area. 
>Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
>Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
>E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
>Tel: (506) 296 2743
>Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 23:45:21 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Mud and more Mud

On Mon, 9 Nov 1998, Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:

:came through with only a chance to test your mud driving skills.  What
:tires are you running, by the way???

He has Magma-hydros, doesn't he?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 20:15:38 +1100
Subject: Round Smith's Heater

Casey McMullen wrote:

>We're talking about a basket fan here, which is shaped like a
>basket, ie.  solid bottom/hole in top.  The spinning blades in
>the sides of the basket create a slight positive pressure zone
>inside the blower housing

Sometimes called a squirrel cage fan - for obvious reasons - they look like 
those things
mice, rats and squirrels run around in their cages.

Ron

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 06:20:19 +1100
Subject: Transplants (engines)

Paul Oxley wrote:
>I've got a couple of 4.1 (the 3.8 works just as well) Chev straight
>sixes that are destined for my R6 (SA S111 Stage 1) and my S11a.

In Australia, the GM-Holden 179ci, 186ci and 202ci straight 6 engine conversion 
is as
common as muck.  There's probably more LRs out there with Holden engines than 
LR engines.
This is definitely NOT the basic Chev motor that Toyota used in the early FJ 
Land
Cruisers.  It is a small, lightweight car engine that performs exceptionally 
well in the
LR - and spares are cheap and easy to obtain.  After all, hundreds of thousands 
were built
here in Australia by GM-H

Australians consider the LR engine too underpowered and too slow on highway.  
If one is
looking for a Series LR here, one normally check to see that it has a Holden 
engine
fitted.

TeriAnn, if you want to change the motor to a non-LR unit, you bloody well go 
ahead.  I
won't rubbish you.  But I do commend you on producing what sounds to be a great
off-roading vehicle.

Ron

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 20:29:21 +1100
Subject: GM diesels into series

TeriAnn Wakeman  wrote:
>A 200 tdi is very high on my list, but I would like to see a few
>more HP out of it.

John E. Davis Motor Works in Australia (email jdmotor@bigpond.com) makes a kit 
which
increases the BHP and torque by quite a considerable amount about 40%, if I 
recall
correctly.

Wait, I've found it...

Aussie readers will already be aware of this but for overseas readers, John
Davis Motor Works (they built my stroked & bored V8) in conjunction with
Cooma Diesels have released an upgrade for the 200 and 300 Tdi engines to
increase power at the bottom end of the rev scale by up to 50%.
The article says: "the kit consists of a new manifold elbow, a new exhaust
manifold (300 Tdi only), a new turbo housing, modifications to the
injection pump and modification of the the oil return hose from the turbo
back to the motor."
Measurements on a chassis dyno show power increasing at 40 kph from 15kw
(20bhp) to 28 kw (37 bhp) and torque from 359Nm to 630Nm.   Note these are
figures taken in 4WD at full load in 4th gear high range so they seem low
compared with the advertised power of the ENGINE.
Cost fitted:  Defender A$1960 (about US$1275 at today's exchange rate)
Disco 200 Tdi  A$2245 (US$1460)
Disco 300 Tdi  A$2720 (US$1770)
The Disco 300 Tdi costs more because it needs a new exhuast manifold
because the original incorporates the turbo in the one unit.

Ron

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 00:13:33 EST
Subject: Re: The prince is back

Sounds like a weak diode or a bad brush.

Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 19:25:04 -1000
Subject: Pop Tops

>and fiberglass pop up roof for the ability to pack stuff more densly so 

TeriAnn,
was wondering where you aquired your pop top?
Aloha
Pete

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 01:02:24 EST
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

In a message dated 98-11-09 03:23:41 EST, you write:

 Tsk, tsk, tsk, you poor colonials...

... have all the fun?
 
 I have a friend with the 292 in his S111, he's quite happy with it but
 sourcing engine spares is a challenge. The 250's I'm using are all circa
 1972ish so don't know if this qualifies as older or newer.

If I remember correctly the 250 first appeared in 1967 in the (then new)
Camaro. The 235 and 292 were around from the late 50s. While the earlier
engines used the older technology and were probably overbuilt for their normal
duties, the 250s were more closely based on the contemporary V8 technology
which was generally more geared toward economy of build and conservation of
materials. (comparatively speaking of course.)

  
 Regards
 
 Paul Oxley >>

And to you too

Bill Lawrence

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:58:44 +0200
Subject: 1WD was Re: Expedition LRs/design criteria (was overweight & santana 6)

David Cockey wrote:
> Assuming open differentials in both axles, you have a choice of 1 wheel
> drive or 2 wheel drive with a part time transfer case. With a lockable
> center diff in the transfer case you also have the choice of 1 wheel
> drive or 2 wheel drive.

David and all,

Sorry, this is just a pet peeve of mine. I constantly get 110 and
Defender ownwers telling me "Ah! But I have difflock in my Landy" (said
in a particularly snotty and supercillious manner).
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 01:50:04 EST
Subject: Re: Diesels Temperature

In a message dated 98-11-09 16:22:47 EST, you write:

 What should be the normal operation temperature of a diesel engine (in
 Centigrade)? Does this depends on the specific engine to determine (which I
 doubt), or it is a general issue of diesels?
 
 The temp gauge that I have, and works, is of course an after thing. It reads
 in C' but I really dont know what the limits are.
 
 >>
Hi Luis,

The maximum operating temp. for any engine should be about 210 F. When an
engine has been worked hard the temp may rise above that when it is stopped.
that is usually not damaging.  Most engines run best between 180 to 190. Since
212 F = 100 C this range (180 to 210 F) is about 80-99 C.

To covert from F to C subtract 32 and multiply by 5/9. To convert  from C to F
Multiply by 9/5 and add 32. 

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Marcel Viljoen <marcelv@msmail.cs.unp.ac.za>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:14:35 +0200
Subject: Idiot can't troubleshoot

Hi

My SIIa, 2.25 petrol, has developed a surging/misfire type of problem
that has me baffled.  The vehicle has a Weber 34 ICH carb and K&N
filter, but is otherwise original.  The misbehaviour usually starts as a
"surging" when applying full throttle, irrespective of gradient, and
then deteriorates to a kangaroo like hop until you lighten up on the
throttle.

All the electricals from coil to plugs have been changed systematically,
with no result.  Timing is fine.  
Switching between mechanical and electrical fuel pump has no effect.
The fuel filter has been replaced.
Fuel lines have been checked for blockage/leakage = none.

Could the carb be the problem? - If so what should I look for, and if it
involves stripping, does anyone know a web site that has info on this
carb?

The ammeter flickers vioulently between - and + 30 amps.  One shop
tested the alternator and said it was fine, the other shop said it was
charging well, but did fluctuate.  Could this have anything to do with
the surging/missing?

Thanks for helping out.  Sooner or later I will learn about these things
properly

Marcel Viljoen
Department of Computer Science and Information Systems
Natal University, Pietermaritzburg
Private Bag X01
Scottsville
Pietermaritzburg
3209

Phone +27 (331)260-5643
Fax   +27 (331)260-5966 
Cell +27 82 445 7191

email marcelv@compnt.cs.unp.ac.za.

	Entropy requires no maintenance

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "William S. Parker" <wildbill@wxs.nl>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 07:02:48 +0100
Subject: Overdrive

Nate,

If Paul sent you the same Santana OD he sent me...(for a 72 SerIII 88
LHD) The mounting bracket for the shift lever mounts on top of the
transmission.  The threaded side towards the tranny. The hole is on the
right side of the tunnel. The shift lever itself can be adjusted, left,
right, or center. Mine is basicly center, in line with the 4WD selector.
The choice boils down to the geometery of the shift lever, as it is
starting to get pretty crowded down there. I too, received no
instructions.  It works great though, I can now cruise
autobahns/autoroutes at a stately 100kph. Not really fast enough, but I
get behind a truck and the fast burners stay to the left. Gas mileage
has improved, RPM's are down, and it feels like a whole different car.
Now if I could just get my headlights to come on...

Bill

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 98 09:35:22 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ?? SOLUTION??

Well, thanks for the info!

I tried to run the engine without the heaterplug and of course a lot of 
diesel and much more noise!

But after screwing in another old heaterplug (I had three spares) and 
letting the engine run for a while and unscrewing that plug again, it 
wasn't flat anymore.

I took also a good look at the cylinderhead and noticed that the plug is 
much higer level than the bottomlevel of the cyl.head. I wondered if the 
heaterplug is fitted in somekind of a small hole in the head and thus out 
of reach of the cylinder.
But what if the old, old, I mean the pre-preveious heaterplug was broken 
and left that coily-thing on top of the cylinder. I could get stuck 
there. And everytime a new one was screwed in, it becomes flat because of 
that small thing on the cylinder.
And now it's gone (that small thing).

Still running smoothly (if you can say that of a 2.25 diesel).......

Probably someone who knows how the underside of the cylinderhead of a 
diesel is looking like ??

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 88"  2.25 diesel            1968  109"  2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 09:23:28 +0200
Subject: Re: 200tdi hot rodding?

> It is my understanding that the 300 has an electronic injection 
> system??????

Not the earlier ones, for sure.  I think the later ("high output, clean 
burning") 300Tdi's as for factory fit into Range Rovers had some 
form of electronic control, but have no idea when or why the switch 
was made, or how hard it would be to rip it off and replace with an 
earlier setup.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 98 09:49:53 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

>...Perhaps that is why my truck smokes so much: I can look into the heater
>plug and injector holes, and clearly see the pistons! Maybe my hot spots are
>gone? Not sure, since I know they're still in place - I think. (no piston /
>cylinder damage)

Mine does smoke also..... don't all 2.25 diesel do?

I looked into the Haynes of the 110 diesel. And there's a clear picture 
of the hot spot at the bottom of the head. And clearly to see is where 
the cylinder-circle is. Is going halfway over the hot spot.
So I think the hot spot can't drop onto the cylinder, as it gets stuk 
between the block and the head?

Also in the workshopmanual of the 110 (yes I had a 110, but it had too 
much luxury and had too less problems, which created boring weekends. No 
more boring weekends!!) I read that if the hot spot is something loose in 
the head when putting in a new one, it can be retained with a little 
grease..... So the don't have to get realy tight into the head?

I always have to read these books twice or more to realy understand these 
things. But some of you must have done a diesel-cyl.head revision... I do 
hope so, I want to get my head of in the weekend. (No not mine.... the 
car's head of course!)

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 88"  2.25 diesel            1968  109"  2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 98 09:53:13 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ?? SOLUTION??

Now my old written mail is getting away..... and why not in the weekend 
at home ???

Some old questions in my mail, you've already answered before I asked.

Please ignore some parts of my questions.

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 88"  2.25 diesel            1968  109"  2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:04:01 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

> spot can't drop onto the cylinder, as it gets stuk between the block and
> the head?

Correct, unlesss it breaks, which they do.

> more boring weekends!!) I read that if the hot spot is something loose in
> the head when putting in a new one, it can be retained with a little
> grease..... So the don't have to get realy tight into the head?

They are not really tight in the head but they are usually stuck in 
place when you take the head off.

All the best,

Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 98 11:08:09 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

>They are not really tight in the head but they are usually stuck in 
>place when you take the head off.

So, if I take the head off it should be an interesting weekend, but the 
car should be drivable....

It's not that difficult I hope....

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 88"  2.25 diesel            1968  109"  2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Peter =?iso-8859-1?Q?Thor=E9n?= <peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:51:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Diesels Temperature

>The maximum operating temp. for any engine should be about 210 F. When an
>engine has been worked hard the temp may rise above that when it is stopped.
>that is usually not damaging.  Most engines run best between 180 to 190.
Since
>212 F = 100 C this range (180 to 210 F) is about 80-99 C.
>engine has been worked hard the temp may rise above that when it is stopped.
So this should mean that I could use the 92 C termostate I recently bought
(to give better heat in the car during the Swedish winter) wothout worrying
in my 2.25L diesel? I think the original is something like 73 C.

Peter

Peter Thorén, PhD 
Department of Genetics
Uppsala University
Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
Sweden
Tel. +46 18 67 12 69
Fax  +46 18 67 27 05
e-mail: Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 11:32:31 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ?? SOLUTION??

> I took also a good look at the cylinderhead and noticed that the plug is
# much higer level than the bottomlevel of the cyl.head. I wondered if the
> heaterplug is fitted in somekind of a small hole in the head and thus out
# of reach of the cylinder. But what if the old, old, I mean the
> pre-preveious heaterplug was broken and left that coily-thing on top of
# the cylinder. I could get stuck there. And everytime a new one was screwed
> in, it becomes flat because of that small thing on the cylinder. And now
> it's gone (that small thing).

If memory serves, the injectors and heater plugs screw into the 
precombustion chamber - a small space divided from the cylinder 
proper by the "hot spot".  If your heater plug fell apart, the bits may 
be stuck in the precombustion chamber or may have fallen through 
the hot spot and then been passed out the exhaust valves.  Either 
way it doesn't sound like you've damaged anything if the engine 
runs as before... fingers crossed.  Aren't the business ends of 
heater plugs fairly soft?

There is a hole in the hot spots for combustion to spread to the 
main chamber; this is how you can see the piston?  The hot spots 
are very hard metal and if they fall apart you normally know about it.

All the best,
^O
Andy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Axel Pawlik <axelpawlik@tinet.ie>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 10:32:09 +0000
Subject: Re: CB or CV Master?

>Bill have you tried rebuilding it? A rebuild kit is a HELL of a lot cheaper
>and you wouldn't have to rebend anything.

Right, that's what I did this summer on my CB'ed 68 SWB SIIa.
I was merrily driving around for a few weeks when suddenly I
was not getting any pedal. So, failure again.

So seeing the comments on bleeding the CV vs. the CB, I'll
go for a CV this time.

Nothing like a bit of practise bending lines :-)

	cheers, Axel

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 1998 12:57:27 +0200
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

> So, if I take the head off it should be an interesting weekend, but the
> car should be drivable....
> It's not that difficult I hope....

Head off is not that difficult on a 2286 diesel.  Be sure that you 
have new gaskets for everywhere you'll need them, before you 
start, and make sure you know which way up/round the head 
gasket goes.  Follow the manual in stages and you should be fine.

I think you mean driveable on Monday i.e. the head job won't take a 
whole weekend?  Certainly should not take that long, but allow for 
screw-ups.  I seem to remember budgeting half a day to change a 
head gasket and getting away with it, but nothing went wrong.

When you have the head off, examine the hot spots and the tops of 
the pistons carefully for cracks in addition the the usual cleaning 
up and looking about.  The hot spots usually crack from one corner 
of the rectangular cutout towards the edge of the spot; I don't know 
what the collective wisdom says about replacing cracked ones, but 
I seem to remember the manual indicating that it was OK to put 
cracked ones back as long as the crack was below a certain 
length.  The pistons develop cracks at the point of the 'v' shaped 
feature on the crown.  Look carefully at the base of the sharp bit 
and you will see the starts of them.  If the cracks are enormous 
then you will eventually start to lose pieces of piston; it is worth 
checking whilst you have the head off.

I don't think the car will be driveable until you put the head back on, 
unless you count the starter motor!

Make sure you have a good torque wrench and remember to re-
torque the head bolts and do the tappets after 1000km or so (the 
distance depends on your persuasion...) 

All the best,

Andy

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