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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 09:39:43 -0400
Subject: Re: JOHN PLEASE NO!  was(Re: FW: so far, it isn't working....)

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> >> > Old Muddy isn't everyone's cup of tea but I like it and there have been
> ;>> >many stuck vehicle owners who have been pleased to see it and the
> ;>       [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
> ;>> John, any pictures of 'Muddy" on the net?  Or would you mind sharing
> what
> ;>> you have done to the vehicle

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 27 lines)]
> download then they discover that it is compressed in a format that their
> software can not decompress.  .zip files do me in.
You can breath easy TerriAnn..... I don't send unrequested pics by Email
for exactly the reasons you mention. When I do send them they are
usually small low resolution  files suited for viewing on the E mail
window unless someone wants one for printing. That reply was intend to
be sent to Paul privately  but I slipped up and posted it to the list.
     John and Muddy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 09:23:03 EST
Subject: Overdrive shift linkage question

Hi all,

Thought I'd ask before I have to reassemble this time:

Which way do people put on the final clevis and pivot, threaded hole towards
the right (like the diagram) or towards the left (like in Lindsay Porter's
book)

And which way does the elbow on the shifter lever point, forward, backward,
left or right? 

I'm assuming the hole goes in the right side of the tunnel cover...

Thanks

Nate

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 09:36:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive shift linkage question

Nate, are you getting paranoid? 8*)

Join the club.

Follow the diagram in the OD manual - if you don't have it let me know as I can
find a way to FAX it to you.

That assembly pattern's always worked for me.

                    ajr

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From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 09:38:30 -0500
Subject: Re: "puka"

Peter wrote:

1970 was before Rover went metric so it shouldn't be just that
>it is a metric threaded puka.  Are the threads just a gummed up and I only
>need to have a machine shop clean up the threads or did they change the
>size or threads of this puka in the 1970 heads???  

Peter, for those not familiar with the Hawaiian language it should be noted
that the 
word "puka" means "hole" - lest the reader try to come up with other
meanings as we have
for "SPOT" and the like.  

Aloha,
  erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
1973 Series III  88"

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 10:07:45 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive shift linkage question

In a message dated 11/8/98 9:38:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> Follow the diagram in the OD manual - if you don't have it let me know as I 
> can
>  find a way to FAX it to you.

Manuals? Santana don't need no stinkin' manuals!

Seriously, there no paperwork to go with the Santana OD, I'm following the
diagram at TI Console's website and the Superwinch diagram in the RN catalog.

Looks like the shfiter lever elbow points to the left but I thought I'd ask
(plus Porter's book has the pivot/final link reversed in comparison to the
diagram and the shift lever pointed the other way, so that the shift lever
"hugs" the outline of the tunnel cover.

Al, you can fax stuff to me at work, 410 828-3016 

Thanks for the offer

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 10:08:17 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive shift linkage question

In a message dated 11/8/98 9:38:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

> Nate, are you getting paranoid? 8*)
>  Join the club.

I would but I don't trust the other members.
Nate

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 09:31:52 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive shift linkage question

NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

> Manuals? Santana don't need no stinkin' manuals!
> Seriously, there no paperwork to go with the Santana OD, 
> Looks like the shfiter lever elbow points to the left but I thought I'd ask
> (plus Porter's book has the pivot/final link reversed in comparison to the
> diagram and the shift lever pointed the other way, so that the shift lever
> "hugs" the outline of the tunnel cover.

On mine the elbow points towards the right. Maybe yours is the RHD
version. :)  You can see my linkage at : 
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo/odbreather.jpg
I did have to bend the shifter rod a tiny bit to get it to work right
though.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88"

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 12:33:19 EST
Subject: Re: For Sale

Shit. Sorry. 

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From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 12:32:58 EST
Subject: Re: For Sale

Hello,

     Steve Williams here. I am interested in your LR. Looking for "The Right
One" and yours might be it. Please send pic with subject heading "PIC PIC PIC"
because I get quite a few emails and might deleate it. 

Thanks 

Steve 

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 10:17:22 -0800
Subject: Re: For Sale

PIC PIC PIC  Steve sorry we are not sophisticated enough to send you a
picture on the E mail. Please call me at 1 888 880 2600 to discuss the
truck and if you are still interested I will take some pictures and mail to
you. We are in no hurry as it is in daily use and we plan to list it in
Hemmings. Regards Ray Wood

----------
> From: MARCINKO3@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: For Sale
> Date: Sunday, November 08, 1998 9:32 AM
> Hello,
>      Steve Williams here. I am interested in your LR. Looking for "The

Right
> One" and yours might be it. Please send pic with subject heading "PIC PIC
PIC"

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 13:20:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

Peter.  I think the starters are different. I think the 2.5 has a solenoid
operated, engaged type and the 2,25 an inertia type.
 Not absolutely sure since I have not owned one. I think somewhere in my
collection I have  2.5 starter that will not fit my 2.25
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 13:20:48 -0500
Subject: Nash ( Land Rover content ?)

In the early days Frazer Nash used BMW engines, hows that for full circle ? 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 13:20:45 -0500
Subject: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ?

The heater plug cannot be struck by the piston, the heater plug protrudes
into the indirect injection chamber, the head is flat topped and the heater
should be protected by the hot spot.
 it is not uncommon for the hot spot to come loose in  the head and rattle
between the head and the block, gradually wearing a bigger gap and rattling
more ad infinitum until it drops into the cylinder.
Is the engine noisier than usual ?  I would be tempted to remove the
cylinder head if the heater plug shows signs of being impacted, as opposed
to just melted or vibration failure. Cylinder heads are very expensive and
if the hot spoyt is loose it wioll also destroy the block and piston. If the
loose hot spot is caught early it is possible to salvage the head by having
an insert fitted to return the hole to the correct size.
 
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 13:25:32 -0500
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

 At the end of the day it is YOUR vehicle. I fail to see why it is 
anyones business what engine you choose to use, far less why they 
should flame you for your choice.
 
 The worst offenders seem to be those who have other vehicles and like 
to keep their Land - Rover totally stock. Anyone who fits an engine 
more suited to modern roads, or soundproofing, or better springs is 
beyond the pale - unless its a matter of cutting several inches out of 
a Range Rover chassis frame and dressing it up as a Series vehicle!
 
 I have been using Dougal on a daily basis for work for the last week. 
I cannot wait to fit some ("totally unoriginal, not Rover, not allowed 
by ARC") Parabolic springs to the back springs so that I can have a 
reasonable level of comfort & roadholding. If it wasn`t for the fact 
that another engine would be incompatible with my capstan winch & that 
my engine has only 27,000 miles on it since new, I would be considering 
an engine swap too!
 
 Rant over
 
 All the best
 
 Paul
 Sun, 08 Nov 1998 15:01

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)T  (1984)
 

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From: Philip and Aimee Houser <pahouser@fidnet.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 12:26:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Diesels for overweight Rovers

-At 02:20 PM 11/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
->I have often thought that the Mercedes Benz 300D would be a great engine for
->the LR.
-	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
->John Tackley
->Richmond, VA
-
-John,
-
-Any idea what the torque/horsepower ratings are for this M-B engine?  What
-rpm is the engine good for?  I always thought the VW TDI diesel would be a
-good engine for a SWB, 95 hp, 110 ft/lbs of torque and a high rpm limit.
-(my pre TDI diesel 'redlines' at about 5700 rpm supposedly)
-Jim Fraser

M-B refers to the 5 cyl non-turbo  as OM617.  It has a displacement of 2971

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From: DONOHUEPE@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 14:09:11 EST
Subject: Santanna 6 cyl engines

In a message dated 11/6/98 1:53:12 AM,TeriAnn wrote:

<<Personally, I like to go on long trips away from people into primitive
areas.>>

For a long range trip in your Land Rover to a really PRIMITIVE place, consider
south east Florida.  You would be well advised before going, however,  to take
the Berlitz course on how to speak Neanderthal.  Ween you get there, be sure
to say hello to Pat.

Paul Donohue
Colorado



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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 12:35:00 -0700
Subject: MB diesels

There were three diesel engines offered in the ubiquitous W123 bodied MB's:

2.4 I-4 no turbo 67hp
3.0 I-5 no turbo 77-83hp lots of torque though don't have the numbers
3.0 I-5 turbo    123hp

All three engines have a low, flat torque curve that would suit a Landy.
There are no electrics in the engine, all vacuum and mechanical. These
beasts will run forever with strict oil changes and an occasional injector
swap. I've heard there's a problem with oil pan clearance in an LR swap?

-joseph and sidney (happy with his tired 2.25, but interested)
missoula, mt

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 14:37:49 EST
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

In a message dated 11/7/98 2:21:52 PM Pacific Standard Time,
CIrvin1258@aol.com writes:

<< Uh,...I'd venture to say that you have a major clearance problem there,
dude! >>
I'm not a LR diesel guy, but isnt there a precombustion chamber in the LR
diesels, which can come loose?  As I recall, it happened to Daniel5@best.com.

Zack Arbios

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 12:25:46 -0800
Subject: 58 II 88 engine performance questions

Q1: I did a static timing setting per manual with the vernier adjusted
out to the fourth line. 3 degrees is for low 80's octane, 6 degrees is
for ninety octane. What octane formula are they referring to? I know
that a different octane formula was used "way back then", and I
believe 2 are common now.

Q2: I do get slight changes in engine sound (smoothness) with great
changes in the vernier. How do I know what the correct setting truly
is?

Q3: When I went to do a strobe light timing I connected the wires from
the strobe up correctly and couldn't get the strobe to flicker most of
the time and when it did strobe, it was sporadic. I changes #2 and #3
wires to see if the wire was faulty: no, same problem. I then put the
pickup on 2, 3, and 4 and got successful consistent strobing. For some
reason I decided to change the vernier and finally got #1 to fire
consistently, but definitely at a different setting from what static
timing was. Any ideas as to what is going on here? Could I possibly
have a bad dist cap, which has too large a gap on the leading edge of
the rotor for #1?

Q4: I had also previously been running the original oil bath air
filter and was able to accelerate up hill even in fourth (for those
who are familiar with the area, I80 starting at Penryn to Newcastle
which has some significant grade). Same issue with my house's hill:
with oil bath I could accelerate going up the hill in 1st. After
putting the K/N air filter on, I had to drop to 2 and 3rd on I80
losing steam the whole way, and on the home hill, I actually had to
drop into low range (steep hill!!). I switched from a Rochester 48
main jet to a 50 jet, with little to no improvement. (during some of
this time I again moved the vernier dial one direction or the other).
I finally put the oil bath filter back on and could stay in 4th going
up I80, and could accelerate up the home hill in Hi 1st. My assumption
was that the K/N was allowing too much air flow and thus the jets were
too small to satisfy the higher air flow (suppose it could be
reveresed also: K/N reduced air flow and I got to rich a mixture, but
I doubt it). What is going on here????

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 17:06:08 -0500
Subject: The prince is back

the P.O.D. raised his ugly head today.  The alternator light is winking at
me periodically, unrelated to engine RPM.  The voltmeter (analog) says the
alternator is putting out a steady 13.8 volts.  All other guages and
operations are nominal.  Belt is fine/tight.  Ideas?

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 98 14:12:00 -0800
Subject: Web site updated

Just to let people know that I have updated parts of my web site.  The 
areas of focus were links and navigation.

If you look you will find a number of new links to additional LR parts 
manufacturers and expedition parts suppliers.  New links include the 
Yahoo money converter and Triple-C for the latest in British car toys.

Checking links I noticed that the new revised Border to Border Society 
web pages are in the process of being uploaded.  The 90 minute video of 
the 50th anniversary border to border trek is in reproduction and will be 
available very soon.  They have a 3 minute Quicktime 3 video trailer 
available for downloading.  The URL for this site is on my Links page.

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman

Take care,

TeriAnn Wakeman
Border to Border car #23

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 17:14:53 -0500
Subject: Grubbing around

Nate wrote:

>Alright, I admit it.  I put in the short distributor drive shaft out of phase
>and now I have to pull it out and realign it.  Can this be done with the
wings
>still on? (Oil filter housing has to come off, grub screw, etc,etc, etc...)

BTDT...(sigh) :-(  Yup, you can, but it's one PITA.  Took me about two
hours fiddling.  Thing is, you have to rotate the thing (helical gears) as
it goes in, so you have to guess at the alignment and hope it works out.
The grub screw is a pain....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 17:40:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: The prince is back

On Sun, 8 Nov 1998, A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

:the P.O.D. raised his ugly head today.  The alternator light is winking at
:me periodically, unrelated to engine RPM.  The voltmeter (analog) says the
:alternator is putting out a steady 13.8 volts.  All other guages and
:operations are nominal.  Belt is fine/tight.  Ideas?

Mine was doing this for a while, then it settled into just barely on.  I
ignored it, figuring it had something to do with having a backup light
from an 84 Olds as an alternator light.  Last saturday, as i tried to
leave work, the idiot lights didn't work, and mr sinclair wouldn't start.
I took the dashboard off, and found the main hot lead had developed a high
resistance connection at the ignition switch, and melted.  I fixed it,
using a real soldered connection.  Since then, the charge light only
lights at startup.  

David, wondering how many of the rest of you could have made the same
repair without leaving the driver's seat?

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Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 18:17:00 -0800
Subject: 'subscribe lro-digest'
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'subscribe lro-digest'

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 23:04:43 -0000
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

well I make no apologies for the Iveco in my 110, but I can, and frequently
have, made a number of very good reasons why it is in there.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+
            I !__|  [_]|_\___
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "Todd OndickMT" <tondick@hotmail.com>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 15:15:21 PST
Subject: block heater woes

Howdy everyone-
I sort of followed the thread a few weeks ago on heater plugs for ther 
2.25 petrol engines.  I even had an easy time locating a 1" NPT block 
heater (spec for RR thru napa). Well,  I recall someone mentioning the 
threaded plug beneath the #4 exhaust outlet being a trifle difficult to 
remove.  Is there a tool that fits the butterfly-shaped recess on it's 
face?    I've had no luck in getting it out... any suggestions?

Todd Ondick
tondick@hotmail.com
'65 IIA -she may be crusty, but at least she's not rusty

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From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 20:14:40
Subject: FW: so far, it isn't working....

I really have to wonder about the wisdom of "going diesel" the EPA and
state air regulators will eventually make it impossible to meet their
standards with our type of engine (mine 2.25l), or all but the newest
diesels. However with the old petrol engine converted to LPG etc. one can
beat them at this game. At least for some years to come. That is why I have
stuck with my original Rover 4 cylinder engine. I believe that this will
become a much easier to get fuel as time goes on.

Jim Wolf

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From: GKr7719027@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 20:45:46 EST
Subject: (no subject)

I own a 73 series 3 rover.
Please submit me to your mailing list.
Thank you!

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:40:50 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Posistions

In a message dated 98-11-06 02:55:39 EST, you write:

 I was saying thet our beloved alumunum friends have the petrol tank in
 the same spot!!
 
 Oh NO!!! Don't tell NBC!!
 
 I can see it now--"Tonight on Dateline-The Killer British Classic"
 
 Film at 11
 
 Art
 1960 SII "Aardvark" >>
 If it will make you feel better the tanks on our Rovers have the same type
and quality of construction as the tank in the Lance Macklin Healey that was
rear ended in the infamous crash in the 1955 LeMans 24 hour race.

When the car was diassembled after the crash the tank was found to have taken
the brunt of the crash and was grossly damaged and distorted, but it never
leaked a drop.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 20:37:01 -0800
Subject: info

I was wondering if anyone has an exploded diagram of a toro overdrive? I
don't need one now, but would like one for future refrence. Also does
anyone know anything about Beaver winches. I recently got one from a
friend, but don't know the rating, or even the manufacturer. Any info
would be appreciated. I can be contacted at:  jimfoo@uswest.net  

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 8 Nov 1998 22:46:50 EST
Subject: Re: Fuel Tank Positions

In a message dated 98-11-06 03:58:08 EST, you write:

<< Besides, I'm sitting way back behind the spare wheel so hopefully I will
 have a birds-eye view of the resulting conflagration without being
 intimately involved.
  
 Regards
  >>
There is a little pyromaniac in the best of us.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 00:51:57 EST
Subject: Re: Overweight Rovers - was Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

In a message dated 98-11-06 23:56:44 EST, you write:

 Sorry, the only ones I have seen are in GM pickups.  They appeared to 
 have all kinds of electronc stuff & tubing on them.
 
 TeriAnn Wakeman                >>

I,m sure the civilian versions are all dressed up with all kinds of engine
management and emmision control frills. It takes a lot of useless parts to
make a Suburban cost that much. However the engines themselves, and especially
the military variants, are very basic, down to earth diesel technology. The
glow plug circuits on these engines are fairly complex but for most uses there
is no reason they could'nt be replaced by a simple relay and a push-button
switch. When my 3.5 finally wears out (no sign of that at 150000+) I am
considering this conversion but I still get stuck on the transmission problem.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 01:12:46 EST
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

In a message dated 98-11-07 00:22:31 EST, you write:

<< 've got a couple of 4.1 (the 3.8 works just as well) Chev straight
 sixes that are destined for my R6 (SA S111 Stage 1) and my S11a. After
 exhaustive studies I have determined these Chev engines to be the most
 reliable, easy and cheap to maintain\repair, suitably powerful options.
 Further they are "true" L-R engines: simple and solid, unlike the Buick
 V8 or the original R6's straight six which must have been L-R South
 Africa's idea of a sick joke (Bitter? Me? Never!). Coupled with Range
 Rover crown wheel and pinion sets (3.54:1), these engines give great gas
 mileage, yards of torque, and plenty of highway speed at low revs to
 ensure minimum stress on the moving parts. >>

Being an ignorant colonial clot, I have to convert the displacements in my
head but it appears that the engines you reference are the Chevy 250 and 235
CID engines which were so disdained in my childhood. (If it wasn't a V8 it
wasn't sh*t) (I guess that means if it was a V8 it was...never mind.) Anyway I
had a friend who installed a GM truck engine which was a 292 CID (4.8 liter?)
straight six in his 55 Chevy (very cool) He blueprinted the engine, installed
it with a three speed OD transmission and 3.08:1 gears, The car would do 135
mph. If you have to do a conversion there is nothing wrong with the chevy six
although I'm more partial to the older (235,292) engines than the newer (250)
engines. The later versions were lightened and cheapened quite a bit and I
think are less durable.

Happy Chevying.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 01:19:18 EST
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

In a message dated 98-11-07 01:45:43 EST, you write:

<< Is this the same 6 that's in the FJ60s Landcruisers? >>
It's my understanding that Toyota pretty much copied the Chevy six line for
line for these engines.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 20:41:09
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

	Help!!!!!!  Do you want to sell your 2.5 starter If I need one.  Get 
back
to me Before noon on Monday if you want to sell.
Mahalo Peter

At 01:20 PM 11/8/98 -0500, you wrote:

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 02:04:16 EST
Subject: Re: CB or CV Master?

In a message dated 98-11-07 10:47:34 EST, you write:

 Howdy folks, 
 My master cylinder has begun spilling its lifeblood all over my brake pedal.
 Its a CB, but I note that CV type are WAY cheaper.  Are they any
better/worse?
 Are they incompatible--looks from the drawings that I'd have to re-bend the
 inlet pipe b/c it enters the CV type at an angle.  Thoughts from you all
 before the new one is shipped would be great.
 
 Bill Rice >>
Bill have you tried rebuilding it? A rebuild kit is a HELL of a lot cheaper
and you wouldn't have to rebend anything.

Good luck.

Bill Lawrence

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 08:56:43 +0200
Subject: Re: The 2.25 diesel

> thing" to do.  Like all diesel engines, the key to maximizing the 2.25
# diesel's life is squeaky clean fuel, clean air filter(s), and clean lube
> oil.

Great post, Martin...

But add in "low rpm" to the above list.  Nothing kills a 2.286 diesel 
like over-revving or continuous operation at high rpm.

Speaks he who had a perfectly good one destroyed by the British 
MOT (broken rings).  Who the hell designed an emissions test for 
diesels that is "foot flat until it is bouncing off the governor and then 
measure the smoke"? 

&*^%wits.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 08:46:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Expedition LRs/design criteria (was overweight & santana 6)

TeriAnn said;

> - as strong or stronger than stock & design must have minimal negative
> impact on off roadability. 

<<snip>>

>- Simplicity and the ability to be easily repaired in the
> field is important.

I've been reading the engine debate with a lot of interest... One 
thing that I feel strongly about is that the standard Series (be it I, II, 
IIa or III) gearbox really isn't made to take more torque or power 
than is put out by a standard 4 or 6 cylinder motor.  This is of 
particular concern when high vehicle masses are involved as you're 
already using consistently more right foot on acceleration and to go 
up hills.

By fitting a motor of a higher power output or "greater reliability", 
you may be compromising the reliability of your gearbox;  people 
claim that they won't use the power at times when it is "dangerous 
to the gearbox", but if it is there then you will (probably) get used to 
it and begin to use it to your advantage.  After a few years the 
gearbox may disintegrate at an inappropriate moment.  Fancy oils 
and careful driving will IMO just delay the inevitable.

The 200Tdi is a fantastic engine, but I would hesitate to install one 
in a stock series vehicle for fear of stuffing the gearbox up.

Land Rover made special modifications to the gearboxes of 
vehicles fitted with larger engines than standard here in SA (they 
were designated as Series IIIS or R6) - the engines weren't *that* 
much more powerful than stock and certainly weren't in the league 
of a large GMC diesel.  Those gearboxes last a lot longer but still 
get chewed up in the end by the most popular conversion, 3.xL 
Chev straight sixes.  The traditionally bulletproof transfer 'box also 
has modifications to make it more so.

If I put an engine of significantly more power than stock in a true 
"expedition vehicle" i.e. one that was going to be used in arduous 
conditions, not driven on tar to camping grounds, I would make 
damn sure that I changed the gearbox for something of a higher 
spec., preferably with 5 speeds for the a to b functionality, and if it 
had a centre diff, so much the better.

If you asked me if I would change the gearbox or engine on a stock 
4 cylinder series vehicle to make it more expedition compatible I 
would vote for a more highly specced gearbox every time; 5th gear 
would make cruising a lot nicer without the relative fragility of an 
Overdrive, and the gearbox would be running at much less than its 
design load...  I'd find it difficult to think of an engine more suitable 
then the 4 cylinder petrol/diesel when you take into account 
reliability, parts availability in remote places and ruggedness.
Permanent 4 wheel drive à la Defender would be a boon in terms of 
non-Salisbury axle life, but some people don't like the kickback 
from the swivel UJs.

If I fitted a higher power engine with a Series 'box I'd put a block of 
wood under the accelerator pedal or otherwise limit the power 
output; the whole thing would (proabably) be more reliable because 
the engine's running below design output and the gearbox isn't 
overstressed.

Last time I was in Zimababwe I saw an expedition-use-only 110 
fitted with a 2.286 petrol, mated to an LT95 gearbox (I think the 
original engine was probably a 2.5 petrol).  It was carrying about 
800kg on a permanent basis and had been everywhere on the 
African continent and then some.  The guy had done 250,000km in 
it with that setup, and the only non-maintenance work he had done 
to the engine or transmission was to overhaul the cylinder head.  
OK he had to use low range to get up hills in Kariba, but so did I 
(overladen 2.286 diesel 109").

Just my opinions.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 09:31:26 +0200
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
> Being an ignorant colonial clot, I have to convert the displacements in my
> head but it appears that the engines you reference are the Chevy 250 and 235
> CID engines which were so disdained in my childhood. (If it wasn't a V8 it
> wasn't sh*t) (I guess that means if it was a V8 it was...never mind.) Anyway I
> had a friend who installed a GM truck engine which was a 292 CID (4.8 liter?)
> straight six in his 55 Chevy (very cool) He blueprinted the engine, installed
> it with a three speed OD transmission and 3.08:1 gears, The car would do 135
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
> Happy Chevying.
> Bill Lawrence

Tsk, tsk, tsk, you poor colonials...

I have a friend with the 292 in his S111, he's quite happy with it but
sourcing engine spares is a challenge. The 250's I'm using are all circa
1972ish so don't know if this qualifies as older or newer.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 09:47:33 +0200
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

> Right guys, flames on! 

> Further they are "true" L-R engines: simple and solid, unlike the 
#Buick V8 or the original R6's straight six which must have been L-
> R South Africa's....

Paul I have to agree about the R6 straight six, which is a piece of 
c%^p, but the carbureted V8?  The V8 may need interesting 
gaskets and regular oil changes, but it is simple, and when 
necessary will keep running when abused to the extreme; you have 
"redundant" carbs, cylinders, plugs, pistons, lifters, valves, plug 
leads......

OK I am ignoring the occasional crankshaft-exit-block scenario, but 
all engines have their quirks?!  All in all the V8 is a nice piece of kit 
that keeps working.  And you don't have to adjust the tappets.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Mon, 09 Nov 1998 09:48:02 +0200
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> I have a question for you.  Why did you pick a petrol engine over a
> diesel?
> Take care & et me know how the engines work for you.

Hi TeriAnn,

Wow, I'm amazed I haven't been BBQ'ed yet, if this luck holds I might
just pop down to the casino and bet my house on the roulette...

The petrol/diesel question comes down to spares availability and ease,
and cost, of repair, and also cost of a transplant engine - also to
availability of clean diesel to a lesser degree. 

For years, in Southern Africa, diesel was mainly the preserve of the
agricultural industry and the military. Thus very few civilian vehicles
came out with diesel power plants (apart from BIG trucks and earthmoving
equipment), ergo, spares and mechanics working with diesel are not as
plentiful as those for petrol powered engines. Field repairs on a diesel
are more difficult and therefore more expensive than for petrol. As to
the transplant units themselves: Toyota 2.4 - too underpowered, Nissan
RD/LD 2.8 - teething troubles reported and as yet unproven, Isuzu 280TD
- too darn expensive to start with. American diesels are almost unknown
in SA and parts will be completely unavailable outside of Jhb/CT/Durban,
which is where the vehicles are used. As I referred to, above, clean
diesel is an issue as well. I can burn dirty petrol out of the engines
in the field (it only stinks like you're hauling fertiliser), but
cleaning diesel filters and injectors in the field is a whole other
ballgame. 

Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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