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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:46:50 EST
Subject: Re: Dizzy short drive shaft question[multipart mime alternative 5 
lines delet...

In a message dated 11/6/98 9:57:09 PM Eastern Standard Time,
dhlowe@idirect.com writes:

block. 
> Did
>  I misunderstand you that it is sticking out by an 1/8"! !

No, what I'm saying is the gasket and oil filter housing should keep the grub
screw at least flush with the engine block (assuming it would work it's way
back over time).  

Since the grub starts to engage the hole when ~ 1/8 inch of grub screw is
still sticking out, if the gasket et al, keeps the grub screw AT LEAST flush
with the engine block, then the grub screw will be 1/8 into the hole.  That's
all :)

I used (serendipitously) the exact method you describe with excellent results.
(except for the part about lock tight).  The grub is maybe an 1/8 below the
level of the engine block.

Nate

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From: Kathleen Hollington <kholling@nrn1.NRCan.gc.ca>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 08:55:08 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Seal for bottom of rear door

Has anyone had good experience replacing the bottom seal of the
rear door (the part screwed into the tub) with one of those 
aluminum strips with rubber seal that you can buy for a door house?
I had to take off the metal strip off my LR since the rubber seal
is gone and the strip was rusty, and was wondering if what I
mentioned above has a chance of doing the job.  I'd buy one and
try it but my LR is still largely dissasembled and I wanted to
know if the idea had merit before forgetting it.  Thanks!
-- 
Robert St-Louis -- OTTAWA/CANADA -- '68 IIA SWB LR -- 
  kholling@nrn1.nrcan.gc.ca.NOSPAM (remove NOSPAM when replying)

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 98 06:05:37 -0800
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

Hi Paul

You have basically described the Scotty Chevy 6 conversion that has been 
available in the US for many years.  People here who have them seem to do 
well.  And you are right, they do seem to have the right power for a long 
wheel base LR.  When the conversion first started becoming popular (in 
some circles) people were having cooling problems.  The stock mechanical 
fan sits  too low for the radiator.  The solution ended up being a device 
that mounts the mechanical fan up higher.  I believe it is off some 
Japanese car.  If you are interested in learning more than I know, send 
me an e-mail off line & I give you the email address of a friend who did 
this on his Dormobile.  He is not on this mail list.  

I have a question for you.  Why did you pick a petrol engine over a 
diesel?

Take care & et me know how the engines work for you.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 98 06:13:56 -0800
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

>>The transplants themselves are simple and uncomplicated (adapter plates
>>are available off the shelf),
;
;>Uhh, whose self?  Anyone know if these are available in the states?
;>
;>Paul, any cutting of the bulkhead?
;>Pete

There are two ways you can go:
1. Use a Scotty adaptor plate to the LR transmission 

2. Use a Chevy in line six with a Borg Warner T18 transmission and use a 
Timm Cooper adaptor to go to the Land Rover transfer case.

The Chevy six cylinder engine will fit into a LR six cylinder engine bay. 
 The four cylinder engine bay requires modifying the bulkhead to 6 
cylinder specs and ether moving the transmission cross member rearwards 
to the six cylinder position or cutting a notch in the front cross 
member.  It is basically the same thing that you would need to do to fit 
a Nissan LD28 six cylinder diesel engine.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 98 06:29:24 -0800
Subject: JOHN PLEASE NO!  was(Re: FW: so far, it isn't working....)

>Peter Hope wrote:
>> > Old Muddy isn't everyone's cup of tea but I like it and there have been
;>> >many stuck vehicle owners who have been pleased to see it and the
;>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 9 lines)]
;>> John, any pictures of 'Muddy" on the net?  Or would you mind sharing 
what
;>> you have done to the vehicle

;>I,ll send some pic by E mail off the list as soon as I get them scanned
;>   John

John
PLEASE do not send a scanned photo out to the mail list!

A scanned photo takes a lot of time to download at modem speeds.  This 
may be costly to some people and will not create additional friends since 
you need to download it to delete it in most mail systems.

The best way would be to post the scanned piture on a web site and give 
people the URL.  Second best is to send it directly OLY to people who 
request to receive the picture

Also best to send it uncompressed jpeg.  Another way not to make 
additional friends is to send a file that takes someone a half hour to 
download then they discover that it is compressed in a format that their 
software can not decompress.  .zip files do me in.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 21:43:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Dizzy short drive shaft question

Good judgement is the product of experience,  but experience is the product of 
bad
judgement....................I`m very experienced.! ! !

> And how did we get to be so awesome Dave? Is it because we have to install 
the drive
> gear two and three times each time we do an engine.... the last attempt 
always being
> after the engine is in the vehicle, but won't start? Practice makes perfect, 
as they
> say.
> Which reminds me. I'll be over Sunday to double check the drive gear in the 
lump
> sitting on our garage floor before I install it.
> d.h.lowe wrote:
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> this planet. Bar none . It`s just too hard to be modest when we are so
> Kewl.

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From: mr <rm@doos.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 15:44:04 +0200
Subject: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

Hi all!

My '78 88" diesel isn't running fine anymore after discovering the 4th
glowplug being flat as it shouldn't be! Normal these things look like a
mini-waterboiler but now the curly-wire is as flat as possible.

I coulnn't start with this plug in so I swapped the smashed one with an
old one (now I know why I keep old stuff) and started.

Engine sounds ok, but when I took the spare one out I saw this one
smashed a little too.

What's going on in my engine?

eh, Help? (someone on the real-time list for fast help???)

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 21:51:41 -0500
Subject: Re: I know I've been here before, but...

T alk to the font of knowledge on the
Chevy`s................Scotty........who moved to a new address a couple of
months ago. TeriA ,  you must have his address.

> Uhh, whose self?  Anyone know if these are available in the states?

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Fri, 06 Nov 1998 22:04:44 -0500
Subject: Re: Dizzy short drive shaft question[multipart mime alternative 5 
lines delet...

Sounds good. The grub screw has an insert of some unknown material running
longditudinally which binds against the threads. The factory recommend that a 
new
one is used every time but I have only ever bought one in my life and I have 
never
had a problem..

> I used (serendipitously) the exact method you describe with excellent results.
> (except for the part about lock tight).  The grub is maybe an 1/8 below the
> level of the engine block.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:30:43 EST
Subject: Re:  JOHN PLEASE NO!  was(Re: FW: so far, it isn't working....)

In a message dated 11/7/98 10:30:24 AM, you wrote:

<<I,ll send some pic by E mail off the list>>
<<PLEASE do not send a scanned photo out to the mail list!>>

I think he said that in his posting...

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 10:45:40 EST
Subject: CB or CV Master?

Howdy folks, 
My master cylinder has begun spilling its lifeblood all over my brake pedal.
Its a CB, but I note that CV type are WAY cheaper.  Are they any better/worse?
Are they incompatible--looks from the drawings that I'd have to re-bend the
inlet pipe b/c it enters the CV type at an angle.  Thoughts from you all
before the new one is shipped would be great.

Bill Rice

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From: Joe Palecek <kidspal@cwnet.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 07:56:29 -0800
Subject: NLA door latch locks

I hope someone finds this usefull and or new information.

For those of you with door latch lock mechanism attached to the door
handle and locks that are "NLA" there is still hope.  I was in the
process of converting my driver side door into the series II, IIA thru
1968 style door latch since the lock on my door latch was defective.
When I removed the  series II, IIA thru 1968 style lock from the latch
assembly and the tumbler slid out I noticed it looked similar (in size
and shape) to the one in my defective lock just longer.  It slid right
in to my lock holder and appeared to work.  The only problem was the
extra length to the tumbler.  I decide I would try to modify the tumbler

by cutting, filing and drilling.  If it didn't work I would only be out
the price of a new lock.  My only regret is that I did not take
pictures.  It took a total of 2 hours but I now have a driver side door
latch that locks.  I know now that I can go into a place of business
with a false sense of security and feel good about it.

--
J. Palecek                        #========#
'65 109 Land Rover Station Wagon  |___|__|__\____
Old, Slow but Moving             [| _ |~ |~  | _ |
                                  "(_)""""""""(_)"

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 11:04:20 -0600
Subject: Engine Swaps

Well, I guess I might as well join the party.  I still like the idea of
using a Jaguar XK engine (preferably the 3.4).  It has been done (I ask
about this last year on the list and someone out there knew of somebody in
Britain who had performed this trade) and there are plenty of 3.4s around
thanks to people ditching them for 350 Chevys.  As I recall, the 3.8 and
4.2 are too tall to fit and the 2.4 does not generate a sufficient increase
in power to merit reworking the vehicle to slide it in.  I also like the
fact that this engine keeps the vehicle all British rather than an
Anglo-American hybrid.  The problem will be taking it to the British car
shows and deciding to park it beside the other Land-Rovers or next to the
XK120s, XKEs and Mark IIs.

I only considered the Jaguar engines while I had a spare chassis and no
engine.  I thought the results might be interesting.  However, The Lady
always has and always will remain as close to factory original as I can
keep her.

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor" (who will always have
her original 2.25)

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 07:32:34
Subject: Re:  Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

	My starter won't mate up and I think I've found the problem.  Bought a 5
main 2.25 engine from AB.  They imported a run of rebuilt engines from
someone in England.  Apparently they came with different bell housings
and/or flywheels.  Before putting on the flywheel, I talked with AB and
they didn't mention a thing about this, however.  Said they had had
problems matching up some bits to older vehicles but said they'd solved the
problem.  Called them this morning and they mentioned that they remembered
something about having had problems with the starters and that they thought
I needed to change the bell housing, but the guy who knows wasn't there,
call back Monday.  Now the engine is in the car so I have to do a de
installation to make the change.  I am thoroughly pissed as I have enough
bell housings sitting around that could provide the aluminum for a small
plane.  Would have been no problem to make the swap before I invested all
this time and energy.  Of course if I would have installed the starter or
at least checked to see if it would fit before installing the engine I'd
have discovered the problem long before investing so much time in this
project. 
	That leads me to the question, will the early bell housings fit on this
later engine???  The bolts are obviously metric on the new engine but that
shouldn't matter if the holes are in the right places and all the machining
will mate up.  Your input would be appreciated.  I want to pull the engine
this weekend and make the change if the bell housings that I have will fit.
 If not, the right starter motor might be a better solution as I need
another starter motor to get my 109 on the road.
	Seems like I am reinventing the wheel on this engine swap.  Went to
install the capillary tube for the water temp gauge and found no male
thread fitting.  Checked one of my other heads and found a male to male
adapter which I unscrewed and tried to install in this head.  The threads
would not mate, would not even start to thread on.  The head is off a 1970
with the electric sender which apparently used a male thread directly into
the head.  1970 was before Rover went metric so it shouldn't be just that
it is a metric threaded puka.  Are the threads just a gummed up and I only
need to have a machine shop clean up the threads or did they change the
size or threads of this puka in the 1970 heads???  If the latter, is there
an adapter available to be able to use the capillary gauge.  I have two
reasons for wanting to keep the capillary type.  The old style are not
prone to failure as the electronic gauges and its nice to get in the car in
the morning and, before starting up, check on how cold a morning it is.
One other benefit, my gauge is in centigrade so I'm learning my metric
conversions, makes me feel like I'm finally joining the 19th century, like
the rest of the world.

Aloha Peter

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From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 12:34:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: stop light switches.

My hydraulicly operated stop light switch has stopped switching.  Is there
some other LBC that uses the same switch?  I would like to get one today,
as I actually have time and daylight at the same time. 

david "for once the probelem with the brakes isn't that they dont' work"
Scheidt

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From: Marc-Andre Leger <ma@wefa.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 12:32:04 -0500
Subject: Snorkel

OK, it's built.

It took 2 hours and total cost is less than 75$, including head and duck
tape...

It's held by duck tape to the roll cage until I find a more permanent
way... Tomorrow I will test it Off-road... I did test it on I-95 and it
held at 65MPH (my normal speed...). No anomalies due to lack of
intake...

I'll get pictures soon...

Marc-Andre Leger

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From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 12:57:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Overweight Rovers - was Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

Teriann,
    The ads in LRO states that the 6.2 engines are actually lighter than some of
the Jap diesels.  I've had a couple GM pickups with them, some were good and
some were bad.  Had head gasket problems on one of them, and heard from several
mechanics that this is a common problem.  Did the work myself, and the engine is
very easy to work on. Don't know much about the 6.5 's, though.  The non power
stroke, non turbo 7.3 Navistars are probably the best small diesel ever made,
but would probably be too big and heavy for a L-R. I can list five trucks right
now with 7.3's that have over 300k and never had any internal work done (put
225k on one myself, and only had to have the pump rebuilt.)  They seem to have
twice the power that the 6.2's do.
    Another option would be the 4.3L GM V-6.  The ones built after 1989 have
roller cams and are very long- lived.  I use GMC Safari vans in my vending
company and after 8 years and about 12 vans I have never had and major engine
work(and we put at least 175k on them before we trade).  More horsepower and
torque than a lot of V-8's and will fit under the hood of a Series vehicle
without many mods.  Standard Chevrolet bellhousing pattern, so one of Scotty's
plates should mate one up.  Get rid of the FI and put an aftermarket intake and
small 4-bbl. carb on it and you should get decent mileage.

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464            19?? RR/SIIA/SIII 100" Hybrid (almost finished)
Americus, GA 31709     1967  NADA 109" SW (almost rusted sway)
912-924-6513 (H)         1995 RR County  Classic
912-942-3855 (CELL)

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 08:06:06
Subject: Re: a KISC principle idea.

  I still like the idea of
>using a Jaguar XK engine (preferably the 3.4).  
>Brian Willoughby

	That swap would be based on the KISC (Keep it stupidly complicated)
principle, I assume.  You want to take an even older design, reputed to be
extremely high maintenance, and put it in a simple Landrover.  Some how, I
don't see the logic in that.  First, the Jaguar engine is not tuned for off
road but the street.  Even as low revving as that ancient lump is, it will
probably produce its torque and horsepower too far up the rpm curve to give
the low end grunt that is needed on the trail.  2nd, from the tales that I
have heard about the old XK engines, they were a tribute to British
ingenuity in being able to keep an engine in production long past any
reason to do so.  Friends love to regale me with tales of weekends wasted
just adjusting the valves every 6,000 miles.  3rd, why stick in an engine
that will give no better gas mileage than the 2.25.  There is a reason that
they are swapping Chevy 350's into the Jaguars and it ain't the good gas
mileage of the Chevy.
	I, for one, would rather keep the slow but reliable 2.25, rather than a
questionably reliable, extremely hard to work on, and expensive to repair
engine with better horsepower.  Looks to me like a 4 cylinder turbo diesel
is the logical choice for a relatively easy (no cutting and welding frame
and bulkhead), high low end torque and horsepower, and efficient
replacement for the 2.25.  The only problem is the cost.  Rebuilding the
2.25 costs less than $1500, buying and installing a diesel would be at
least twice that and probably 4 times as much.  Its going to take a lot of
unburnt fuel to justify the expense on an efficiency basis.  Guess that
puts us back to the good old Chevy six for cheap horsepower gains.

Aloha Peter

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From: Winn Bearden <wbearden@americus.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 13:20:08 -0500
Subject: Wheelarches

    I read in LRO that a SIII LWB tub will fit a 110.  If this is true,
are the LWB rear wheelarches the same profile?  I ordered a set of
series extensions from the UK for my SIII hybrid since the RR axles are
so wide.  They warned me that these only fit a SWB.  I decided to chance
it and lost.  The rear arches are a totally different profile. If the
rear arches of my LWB are the same profile as the 110 I should be able
to get a pair af these, right?   RN has them, but I don't want to order
them until I know tthat they will fit.
    P.S.  If anybody wants some rear extensions(fender flares) to fit a
Series SWB let me know.

--
Winn Bearden
P.O. Box 464            19?? RR/SIIA/SIII 100" Hybrid (almost finished)
Americus, GA 31709     1967  NADA 109" SW (almost rusted sway)
912-924-6513 (H)         1995 RR County  Classic
912-942-3855 (CELL)

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From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 00:26:17 -0700
Subject: Re: Overweight Rovers - was Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

>>This is incorrect. The 6.2 and 6.5 liter diesel engines as fitted to the
>>M-1008 (CUCV) and M998 (HMMWV) series of vehicles use a simple mechanical
>>swage plate (distributor type) injection pump
>Sorry, the only ones I have seen are in GM pickups.  They appeared to
>have all kinds of electronc stuff & tubing on them.

So we have 2 different versions of the  6.2/6.5 engine out there?  One for
the Gov. and another for the "rest of us"?  I'd really like to know because
this is the engine setup that I was about to start seriously investigating
for myself...

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 14:21:07 -0500
Subject: Rolling backwards

Kent, the  brake symptoms you describe suggest that the rear brakes are not
working properly. The front brakes are a twin leading shoe design and they
do not work well in reverse, the rear brakes have a better effect when
reversing, so I would conclude that they are not working well.
 My 109 brakes will hold on exceedingly steep hills ( departure angle
permitting ! ) 
Puming tyhe brakes suggests either  bad adjustment or air in the system.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: William Leacock <wleacock@pipeline.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 14:27:13 -0500
Subject: Diesel

 Teri Ann writes : - A 200 tdi is very high on my list, but I would like to
see a few more HP 
out of it. 

 Two weeks ago in the UK I drove a 90 fitted with a 200 tdi, it is rated at
150  hp and can be opened up to 170 hp for competition.
 A larger intercooler, boost pressure increase etc gives it an impressive
performance.
Bill Leacock  ( Limey in exile ) NY USA.
 88 and 109 LR's and 89 RR 

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 03:08:31 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

What possible bell housing could they have used?????? Early types and later 
types
are interchangable. Is it the unthreaded part of the studs that is preventing 
the
starter flange from mating flush or is it the diameter of the opening that 
differs.
If it is the stud a "step" stud would solve that problem..

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 03:11:57 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

OOPS.! ! ! Sorry I was not thinking straight when I wrote that. The 5 bearing 
bell
housing is different because of the different rear seal.

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 03:22:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

d.h.lowe wrote:

> What possible bell housing could they have used?????? Early types and later 
types
> are interchangable. Is it the unthreaded part of the studs that is preventing 
the
> starter flange from mating flush or is it the diameter of the opening that 
differs.
> If it is the stud a "step" stud would solve that problem..

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 17:20:25 EST
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??

In a message dated 98-11-07 09:43:34 EST, you write:

<< My '78 88" diesel isn't running fine anymore after discovering the 4th
 glowplug being flat as it shouldn't be! Normal these things look like a
 mini-waterboiler but now the curly-wire is as flat as possible.
 
 I coulnn't start with this plug in so I swapped the smashed one with an
 old one (now I know why I keep old stuff) and started.
 
 Engine sounds ok, but when I took the spare one out I saw this one
 smashed a little too.
 
 What's going on in my engine?
 
 eh, Help? (someone on the real-time list for fast help???)
 
 >>

Uh,...I'd venture to say that you have a major clearance problem there, dude!
If your heater plugs are getting smashed, I doubt that your engine is sounding
okay, but rahter, has MORE of a clacking sound, than a diesel normally would.
The ONLY way I could see this happening, is if the piston is hitting it -
meaning you have either:

A. Connecting rod about to be "thrown", or

B. A piston that's coming apart, or

C. ...somebody milled a bit too much off of your cylinder head!

The first two are a bit doubtful, since the piston is under compression on the
upstroke, but they can happen.

Charles

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 16:49:18 -0600
Subject: Re: stop light switches.

Hi David,
  The Switch is the same as the MGA uses.  MOSS  on the east coast sell
them.

Good Luck,
   Rob

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 17:12:57 -0600
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

Hi Peter,
  I did the swap of a running 1964 engine into my 1971 88 & found that
the cluch could not be adjusted without lengthening the slave
rod.(another story),
  I did have to change my starter to the one that looks like it should
be in a MGB(short nose) because there was no hole through the bell
housing for the longer starter to pass through.
 You may find that works for you as well.

Good Luck,
  Rob Davis_Chicago

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 13:13:42
Subject: Re: Starter motor won't mate up, solutions anyone????

Aloha 
	The problem is either the flywheel is too large or the starter Bendix is
too big or there is a different starter for this engine that has the shaft
or the mounting flange off set slightly.  It looks like it is a matter of
less than 1/2 inch but enough to make it so the starter won't go on all the
way and probably wouldn't work if I did get it on.  I can't get the starter
to slip on the studs because the starter is going in at an angle.  The back
of the starter (towards the front of the engine) is up against the block
and the Bendix is hard up against the flywheel so I can just barely get the
flange on the studs.  In this position the starter is angled toward the
engine.  

Mahalo Peter

At 03:22 AM 11/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>d.h.lowe wrote:
>> What possible bell housing could they have used?????? Early types and

later types
>> are interchangable. Is it the unthreaded part of the studs that is
preventing the
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 6 lines)]
>> starter flange from mating flush or is it the diameter of the opening
that differs.

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 15:39:18 -0800
Subject: Re: CB or CV Master?

BILL The Cv is a much better system then the CB and as you say much
cheaper. When fitting the CV however you must put spacer 564944 under the
mounting flange and change the two pipes which are 577166 and 569149. You
will be amazed how quickly this purges compared with the CB.  Ray

----------
> From: Jarvis64@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: CB or CV Master?
> Date: Saturday, November 07, 1998 7:45 AM
> Howdy folks, 
> My master cylinder has begun spilling its lifeblood all over my brake

pedal.
> Its a CB, but I note that CV type are WAY cheaper.  Are they any
better/worse?
> Are they incompatible--looks from the drawings that I'd have to re-bend
the

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:41:15 +0000
Subject: Re: CB or CV Master?

In message <bulk.25987.19981107074620@Land-Rover.Team.Net>,
Jarvis64@aol.com writes
>Howdy folks, 
>My master cylinder has begun spilling its lifeblood all over my brake pedal.
>Its a CB, but I note that CV type are WAY cheaper. 
>From my experiance the CB type is the son of the devil. When building

the 65` the bulkhead we got was from a LWB and was the CB, it would not
bleed so we replaced it for a new CB type and it still would not bleed!.
We spoke to a freind in the know and he told us to bin the CB type even
though it was new. He told us to buy a CV type, resulted in a good bleed
straight away. It is worth changing the pipe etc to get a decent master
cylinder.

-- 
andy Smith
1965 ser2a swb V8 ccvt/road
1971 ser2a 2.25P swb road
Tamworth Staffs.

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 18:57:25 EST
Subject: Re: Smashed heaterplug by cylinder ??(OR...)

...You know - I've heard of this happening to a guy in the local Mini club,
but...it could also be that somebody reground the crankshaft, and the number 4
journal is offset to the rest!

Sad to say, but just about everything that can cause this, is an expensive
fix.

Charles

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 17:48:05 -0700
Subject: Re: GM diesels into series

TeriAnn,
 I have a 2.25L diesel in my 109. I have been following your discussion on the
subject of diesels and am wondering this? Have you or anyone else been able to
assertain if the new Td5 will be available in crate form in the new year. From
what i've read it might be just the engine we've all been waiting for.

John Wood

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 17:17:02 -1000
Subject: Re: Overweight Rovers - was Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

>    Another option would be the 4.3L GM V-6.  The ones built after 1989
have
>roller cams and are very long- lived.  I use GMC Safari vans in my vending
>company and after 8 years and about 12 vans I have never had and major
engine
>work(and we put at least 175k on them before we trade).  More horsepower
and
>torque than a lot of V-8's and will fit under the hood of a Series vehicle
>without many mods.  Standard Chevrolet bellhousing pattern, so one of
Scotty's
>plates should mate one up.  Get rid of the FI and put an aftermarket intake
and
>small 4-bbl. carb on it and you should get decent mileage.

People need to remember that in many US States, if you swap in an engine,
then the emissions must meet those of the newest component, be it vehicle or
engine.  So if we are talking a non diesel engine it is going to be
imperative to keep it pre 80 to eliminate the electronics and the emission
stuff that comes with them.
Aloha
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 7 Nov 1998 17:22:25 -1000
Subject: Re: Overweight Rovers - was Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

>So we have 2 different versions of the  6.2/6.5 engine out there?  One for
>the Gov. and another for the "rest of us"?  I'd really like to know because
>this is the engine setup that I was about to start seriously investigating
>for myself...

I can only speak of the Military 6.2's that come in the pickups and blazers.
Most of the vehicles that I see at auctions are early 80's models.  The PU I
was in today was an 84 with 27k on the odometer.  I bet that the specs for
civilian and military engines of the era would be the same.  Maybe a little
time spent snooping under hoods at a wrecking yard???
ALoha
Pete

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 07 Nov 1998 18:05:39
Subject: Re: Possible reasons why Military and Civilian GM Diesels may

	Military is very concerned with electronic emissions.  May have used
mechanical fuel injection instead of the civilian electronic stuff because
of the spurious electrons pinpointing location.  A trick learned in Viet
Nam, they used to pick up the NVN trucks because of their noisy ignitions.
If you look at a gas powered military truck, the ignition has tremendous
shielding and all the ancillaries like the windshield wipers are vacuum
powered.  They are a real pain in the butt to keep running because of all
the vacuum stuff.  I wouldn't be surprized if that would be enough reason
for them to use the mechanically same engine but have entirely different or
non existant electronics such as the fuel injection.
Aloha Peter 

At 05:22 PM 11/7/98 -1000, you wrote:

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From: Paul Oxley <paul@adventures.co.za>
Date: Sun, 08 Nov 1998 06:13:15 +0200
Subject: Re: Wheelarches

Winn Bearden wrote:
>     I read in LRO that a SIII LWB tub will fit a 110.  If this is true,
> are the LWB rear wheelarches the same profile?  I ordered a set of

No, they're completely different profiles.
 
Regards

Paul Oxley
http://AfricanAdrenalin.co.za
http://Adventures.co.za

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