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From: "Ron Franklin" <oldhaven@mail.biddeford.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 07:29:12 -0500
Subject: Yard Sale

Cleaning out the yard and garage:

D100 kit:, 1991 RR frame in like new condition, new defender 110 bulkhead, 
 and new 110 Hi-cap rear bulkhead.  Will allow making a rear flatbed, or 
adding an 88 rear body tub, or a 130 hi cap rear body to a 110,  90 or 
series frontend, with a truck cab, for a unique Rover without shortening or 
lengthening the frame.  $1700.   Suspension for above including leading  
and trailing arms, A-frame, panhard rod, $300.00.  Driveshafts  $150 the 
pair.  I have 1988 RR axles in good condition but not available for a month 
or two, (on my RR now) at $600 ea..   Drivetrain choices are stock '87 RR 
engine, EFI, ZF autobox and LT230, which I have and will discuss, or 
something you think up.  Two parts/project vehicles are available also:

1965 SIIA 109 pickup, for parts or rebuild, complete but frame and bulkhead 
rusty, mechanicals unknown, body panels and truck cap typical wear but rear 
tub sides straight.  $1500 or $1400 without Kodiak heater.

1961 SII 88 for parts or rebuild, frame shot, bulkhead bad at bottom, 
needs new inner wing panels, has non standard seats.  Engine was running 
well when I stopped using it 5 years ago.  fixed window hardtop, liftgate 
and rear tub excellent, doors could use some work, Kodiak heater, $1200.

Koenig winch and mount for parts or repair, front crankshaft drive, needs 
bracket opposite gearbox end repaired or fabricated, control cables. $450

109 front doors, bottoms need repair $50 ea

rear door, same deal $30
 
I've listed prices separately since some things have to sell before I will 
sell others, or the whole business can go as a package at somewhat reduced 
figures with or without the parts vehicles.

Ron Franklin
207-666-5614

Bowdoin, Maine, USA

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 14:15:04 +0200
Subject: Re: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

> managed to get it out - Now I am wondering if I have to take the diff a
> part completely cause I can see small metalic grinding all over -

Olafur, if the surfaces of any bearing are visibly pitted or damaged 
than that bearing is going to go wrong before long.  If that is the 
case, I would suggest replacing the bearings as it may be easier 
and cheaper in the long term than having to take the thing out 
again.  Your description of "small metallic grinding" sounds like it 
might be very fine grooves around the bearing, which may be just 
well-worn bearings - the rolling elements scratch the surface of the 
races after a while, especially if there is any muck or water in the 
oil.  I would tend not to worry too much about that fine damage if 
the rolling action is still smooth and all the wear is around the 
bearing (as it rotates rather than across).

The problem with taking it apart is that setting up a diff isn't the 
easiest of things for someone who hasn't been shown how to do it 
or has the complete manual - certain clearances (e.g. crownwheel 
to pinion distance) need to be measured *before* taking it apart so 
you can put it back together exactly the same way afterwards.  If 
you don't get it back together exactly the same then it may 
become very noisy.

Whether or not you decide to change the bearings, I would suggest 
washing the diff throughly in petrol or paraffin to get rid of all the old 
EP90 and small metal bits carried with it.

A new or second hand diff is an expensive option.  If there are no 
missing teeth (or excessive wear on the teeth) in yours then I 
would suggest just doing the bearings.  If metal bits have damaged 
the bearing surfaces then they may have damaged the teeth of the 
gears so check carefully.  If you have to start replacing gears then 
its probably cheaper to look second hand.

Hope this helps.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 07:42:40 EST
Subject: Re:  RR low beams are dead

In a message dated 11/4/98 2:49:54 AM, you wrote:

<<The high beams work fine on
both lights.  The park lights work.  All 4 fuses are fine.  The lights both
went out at the same time, so I don't think it's the bulbs that are bad
(80/120 PIAA's).>>

<<Anyone else experience this phoenomenon?>>

Yup, had the same bulbs. One low beam went out, and the other mysteriously
followed a few minutes later.

I think it is very odd that they both went out so quickly.

The place I bought the bulbs doesn't carry them anymore, they say they've had
too many demands for refunds or something, they think the bulbs are too
fragile.

ymmv

--pat.

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From: "HENRY STAGE"<henry.stage@smtp.cnet.navy.mil>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 08:20:18 -0600
Subject: 6cyl pisons in a four?

     Is somebody pulling my leg or is it true that lr 6 cyl pistons fit the 
     2.25 and increase the bhp?  Are there valve clearance problems? I have 
     done this kind of thing before racing stock cars, used chevy 400 
     crank, rods, special pistons, in a 350 block. Made for more 
     displacement in a better block.
     
     I have no intention of pulling my 2.25 out, which is running great, 
     and doing any major surgery, but when that day comes, it would be 
     great to add a couple of hp for next to nothing! Especially since as I 
     kit the old beast out for long range touring the horsepower to weight
     ration is getting worse by the day.
     
     BTW, does anybody make zero gap rings for lr pistons?  They work great 
     in race engines. Could not hurt much in a Landy.
     
     Cole Stage
     '67 IIA ambulance "Hefelump" (as in, it is as big as a ...) 

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: 04 Nov 1998 15:55:05 +0100
Subject: Re: 6cyl pisons in a four?

"HENRY STAGE"<henry.stage@smtp.cnet.navy.mil> writes:

>      Is somebody pulling my leg or is it true that lr 6 cyl pistons fit the 
>      2.25 and increase the bhp?  Are there valve clearance problems? I have 

I don't have the facts at hand, but I seriously doubt this. The volume
per cylinder is quite a bit lower in a 2.6 6 cyl than in a 2.25 4 cyl engine.

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 07:07:12 -0800
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re:_can=B4t_change_gear_?=

You might first try just loosening the four nuts that hald the cover onto
the top of the transmission. Sometimes the cover does not fit well and jams
the selector rods. Is the cover matched with the box? The id marks on the
front left hand corner should be the same on both lid and box.

Ray Wood

----------
> From: d.h.lowe <dhlowe@idirect.com>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: canīt change gear 
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 5:58 AM

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> Date: Tuesday, November 03, 1998 5:58 AM
> > I am in trouble again. After some gearbox work I canīt change gear. I
have
> > taken off the gearbox, taken off the bellhousing and changed the front
> 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 11 lines)]
> > anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donīt tell me
I
> > need to take off the gearbox again...
>  Did you remove the synchro when you had the front open and perhaps put
> > anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donīt tell me
it
> back the wrong way round? Are the two retaining plates that hold the
selector

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From: "John Baker" <daddyo@loxinfo.co.th>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:00:16 +0700
Subject: Steering Relay

Is it possible to fit a zerk fitting on the steering relay so that it can
be greased instead of oiled? I ask because I installed a new one with a bad
seal, the oil just leaks right out. I would prefer not to go through the
process of removing it, and I would not like to have to oil it every week. 

Regards,

John Baker
Bangkok

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:20:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Steering Relay

If it's a new one and the shafts are not scored, you can just remove the bottom
plate and change the seal - it's not hard.

I'd recommend that before I'd suggest greasing it - swapping the seal is a
half-hour job and the relay doesn't need to be removed from the car to do it.

Just remove the lower arm, pull the circular securing plate, and undo the four
bolts holding the bottom plate on the relay. The seal is attached to the plate.

The spring won't be an issue, as the shaft is happily anchored still by the
upper arm. It won't come out.

                              ajr

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:35:43 EST
Subject: Re-LR Birth Certificate

>Anyone have any idea was C.V.D  stands for ???

At A guess I would say Central Vehicle Depot.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
(If you can't get there in a hybrid you can't get there) 

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 08:44:22 -0800
Subject: Re: 6cyl pisons in a four?

Terje Krogdahl wrote:

> I don't have the facts at hand, but I seriously doubt this. The volume
> per cylinder is quite a bit lower in a 2.6 6 cyl than in a 2.25 4 cyl engine.
According to my book, the bore on a Rover 2.6 is 77.8mm while a 2.25 has
a bore of 90.47mm. If somebody swapped pistons it sounds like they had a
little blowby. The Santana 3.4 has the same size pistons and an 8:1 cr.
Maybe the Santana pistons are the ones that are different, or maybe not.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 08:56:23 -0800
Subject: Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> Anyone know anything about them??
> They are supposed to be a LR four cylinder with two added cylinders.
> Rumor has it that they take LR four cylinder engine parts.

A book I have statas that they have the same bore and stroke as a 2.25,

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:19:04 EST
Subject: Re: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

In a message dated 11/4/98 2:11:44 AM Pacific Standard Time, olafura@ti.is
writes:

<< Now I am wondering if I have to take the
 diff a part completely cause I can see small metalic grinding all over - >>

No probably not unless your definition of small metallic crap is significantly
different from others.  Just was it well with a solvent and put it back
together.  Change the lube at a  shorter interval next time and the particles
will be gone.  don't forget to wash inside the diff as well, Rover Moms rule,
all you can see.

Zack Arbios

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:30:39 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

In a message dated 11/4/98 12:25:41 PM, you wrote:

<<Rover Moms rule>>

Are you talking about all the babes in Discos & RR's I see driving around
here??

;-)

--pat.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 06:40:26 -1000
Subject: Re: Waxing Galvanizing 

>Rain is to provide water companies with a living.They get it free,then
>sell it to you for a vast fortune,then when you've finished with it,
>they charge you *another* vast fortune to take it away.
You will love this then.  When I was still in Va Beach, VA.  The city also
charged you a fee based upon the foot print of your house on your lot.  This
fee was because the area occupied by your house prevented water from going
back into the ground naturally and instead went into storm drains.  A
neighbor once tried to sue the city for this.  Seems he was charged once
when we were in a drought, no rain for the month.

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From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:49:24 -0500
Subject: Solution: Alternate Intake Plumbing

The solution to my missing intake plumbing problem is to accept a used
intake from a well-known list member who has graciously offered to send it
to me for the cost of the shipping.

I must say I am a little surprised that no one came out with "well I used a
Schedule 90 PVC elbow duct-taped to the exhaust flange off of a ' 74 Chevy
Vega welded to a piece of pipe from my kid's old jungle gym and glued to
the air cleaner with a glob of RTV sealant."

But that's OK- my intake is on the way so I'm happy.

-Ben

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:43:40 -0500
Subject: Icelandic debris...

For fast removal of chewed up steel bits, get a bucket and fill it with 
very hot, very soapy water and dunk the diff in there several times. If 
you want it spotless, add a can of drain cleaner (lye) and soak it 
overnight. Wonderful stuff that. Wear gloves. Helps to rinse and dry it a 
bit before reinstalling. 

You can take the diff apart if you want to be Mr. Clean. Reassembly is 
easy and you only have to readjust the ring & pinion backlash.

These things are pretty tough. You can't hurt it.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:58:19 EST
Subject: Re:  Solution: Alternate Intake Plumbing

In a message dated 11/4/98 12:51:12 PM, you wrote:

<<I must say I am a little surprised that no one came out with "well I used a
Schedule 90 PVC elbow duct-taped to the exhaust flange off of a ' 74 Chevy
Vega welded to a piece of pipe from my kid's old jungle gym and glued to
the air cleaner with a glob of RTV sealant.">>

Ok, then:

At the 97 FL club rally*, there were a few lro's "daring" eachother to cross
the pond at the campsite. This one person (who shall remain nameless, as it
wasn't me) attempted it three times, each time the water won. He finally
decided to "build" a snorkle then and there. Beer cans were found (not hard)
and the tops and bottoms cut out. The bonnet was removed and this 3-cans-and-
duct-tape snorkle was attached to the carb top. It looked straighter than the
LR's body, btw. He then went back into the pond... I'll have to rate it as a 3
banana bodge, since it did work.

*Lake City, X-ing of I-75 & I-10, 3rd weekend of april, annually.

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 07:01:33 -1000
Subject: Re: Icelandic debris...

>For fast removal of chewed up steel bits, get a bucket and fill it with
>very hot, very soapy water and dunk the diff in there several times. If
>you want it spotless, add a can of drain cleaner (lye) and soak it
>overnight. Wonderful stuff that. Wear gloves. Helps to rinse and dry it a
>bit before reinstalling.

If you have access to it, compressed air also works great.  Remember safety
goggles
Aloha
Pete

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 09:43:37 -0800 
Subject: Re: RR low beams are dead

From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:50:37 -0700
Subject: RR low beams are dead

>hey the low beams on my headlights are dead.  The high beams work fine on
both lights.  The park lights work.  All 4 fuses are fine.  The lights both
went out at the same time, so I don't think it's the bulbs that are bad
(80/120 PIAA's).

If I'm reading this right and you are running bulbs that are 80 watts on low
and 120 watts on high, I suspect your problem is due to heat.  I tried
running bulbs like this in my 1991 Range Rover, and couldn't believe how hot
the lenses got.  Rain hitting these things would very likely have cracked
the lenses.  Light with bulbs of this rating are designed to be mounted on
external bars (bumper, roll cage, etc.) so there is a lot of cooling air
around them.  Putting high-wattage bulbs in the recessed headlights of a
Range Rover generates a huge amount of heat which is not siphoned off by
cooling air.  I loved the amount of light the bulbs but out, but it was only
a matter of days before I lost the low beam of one lamp due to heat: I could
see the fused filaments inside the bulb when I removed it.  So I went back
to the standard 55/65 or whatever bulbs.  Just going to the Hella H-2 (I
think that's what they are) headlights made a noticeable improvement over
the headlights that came with the vehicle.  It was obvious, however, that
the intense heat generated by the high-power bulbs I tried would lead to
problems, and it wasn't long before it did.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 13:50:28 -0400
Subject: Re: RR low beams are dead

Michael Slade wrote:
> Hi all,
> hey the low beams on my headlights are dead.  The high beams work fine on
> both lights.  The park lights work.  All 4 fuses are fine.  The lights both
> went out at the same time, so I don't think it's the bulbs that are bad
> (80/120 PIAA's).
> I am wondering if the switch is notorious for going sour?  I wasn't aware
> that there were two different circuits in that switch, one for high and one
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> it's raining, and cold outside, but I'll take a look at it tomorrow.
> Anyone else experience this phoenomenon?
I am not very familiar with the RR system but I wonder if there is a
relay that has expired. If there is no relay in the system then I
suspect you have fried the switch with the high power bulbs. You have
double the current draw on the circuit and will be very close to its max
load.
    John and Muddy

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 13:42:59 EST
Subject: Re: RR low beams are dead

In a message dated 11/4/98 1:54:10 PM, you wrote:

<<Hi all, hey the low beams on my headlights are dead.>>

Low beams? We don't need no steenkin' low beams...  ;-)

When oncoming traffic flashes their lights at you, light up the Hellas on the
roof. hehehe.

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 12:38:53 -0700
Subject: High powered Lights

John and the ever faithful Muddy wrote:

I am not very familiar with the RR system but I wonder if there is a
relay that has expired. If there is no relay in the system then I
suspect you have fried the switch with the high power bulbs. You have
double the current draw on the circuit and will be very close to its max

load.
    John and Muddy

BTDT. Had A TR-7 when over in the Mother Country. Ha d halogen
Headlights, and I saw  these 90/150 watt bulbs at the local speed shop.
Put them in and Man I got Light-for two days. Was on Mid shift-going
into work at 11 PM on a lonely (but Thankfully straight) road at about
60 when the light s went out, High beam, low beams everything. I had
melted the plastic (dare I say It-)Lucas light switch!!

Stopped at the local scrappers in the morning, got a switch out of some
British Leyland POS and swapped back to the original bulbs.

Funny thing is, when the Bulbs were put into my Mini-the light switch
handled it!!

LR CONTENT-Didn't dare try them in the Aardvark!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:14:00 -0500
Subject: Re: Jerry (not gerry) can holders

<< now what company is it that makes the guages?? >>

 Smiths in mine. VDO in the Defenders at work.

 Paul

 Tue, 03 Nov 1998 17:14

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

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From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 12:32:16 -0700
Subject: Re: RR low beams are dead

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From: Jim Fraser <fraserj@webhart.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 17:08:30 -0500
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_can=B4t_change_gear_?=

> Did you remove the synchro when you had the front open and perhaps put it
>back the wrong way round? Are the two retaining plates that hold the selector
>shaft seals on the wrong way round.

As an aside, I'm in the process of rebuilding my '53 80' and I've noticed
that I can't shift the tranny into 3rd or fourth.  Reverse, 1st and second
are fine.  All of the selector shaft and forks look fine (at least what I
can see with the top cover off).  Could the synchro unit be siezed?  If I
push hard on the 3/4 selector shaft I can just start to feel the gears
engage, but that's it.  It doesn't seem to matter wether or not I spin the
input or output shaft.

Any ideas?  I plan on 'overhauling' the unit anyway, any overhaul tips or
tricks?

Jim Fraser

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 17:22:49 EST
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

In a message dated 03/11/98 23:05:17 BST, you write:

<< As in the "Little Nash Rambler" Beep Beep??? >>
eh?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:42:04 -0000
Subject: Thanks

Hey all,
here I am on my new ISP on the list :-)>

Many thanks to all of those who suggested ways out of my little subscribing
difficulty. It was the HTML/Mime thing, once I had that knocked off it
worked fine.

Thanks again, that's what this pub is all about, mates helping out other
mates.

LR content, er... it snowed today :-)>
Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+
            I !__|  [_]|_\___
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 18:45:39 -0400
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 03/11/98 23:05:17 BST, you write:
> << As in the "Little Nash Rambler" Beep Beep??? >>

 This is a reference to an obscure 1950s song about a small car that got 
attached to a much larger one and got dragged along at outrageous
speeds. I believe it was an Austin Metropolitan in disguise.
   John and Muddy

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 22:28:37 +0000
Subject: Re: RR low beams are dead

In message <bulk.683.19981103224547@Land-Rover.Team.Net>, Michael Slade
<slade@DreamLab.cc> writes
>Hi all,
>hey the low beams on my headlights are dead.

Could well be the switch I have replaced a couple in the past seven
years.

-- 
andy Smith
1965 ser2a V8 ccvt/road
1971 ser2a 2.25P road.
Tamworth Staffs

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From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 17:11:28 -0600
Subject: Round Smiths Heater

Does anyone out there have a working blower motor and fan for a smiths
heater they would like to sell?  It is the round one on the drivers side
(LH) by the accelerator pedal that is refered to as the leg burner.  I have
a 1961 88" late SII or early IIA depening on where you look.

Please email me direct as to not bother others.

I am in Lubbock, Texas.

Steve Fullwood

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 15:12:50 -0800 
Subject: Trimming the Bulkhead

Very wet day here in S.W. BC.  Parked beside Sussex's '69 SIIA and we stood
by our vehicles, comparing the size of our two oil slicks in all their
rainbow glory.  I think that my Rover is letting more water in than oil
out...

Since overhauling my bulkhead last winter, it has never sat quite right on
the frame.  I think that the problem is the new footwells that I had welded
in.  They seem to stick a little too far forward and thus cause the bulkhead
to lean slightly aft as they are bolted to the steering box pillars.  I know
that there are shims for aligning at this point but I have removed them all
and still have a slight aft rake to the bulkhead.  As you may imagine, this
makes the doors a little tight and also causes problems with the roof
alignment.  Right now I have the windscreen tilted forward just a little to
line up the top frame with the bold holes in the hard top.

My question is that if I loosen the bolts that attach the steering box
pillars to the frame, will this give me some more adjustment room to pull
the bulkhead forward?  I only need about 1/2 an inch...

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC  Canada

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From: "Frank Elson" <frankelson@felson.freeserve.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 23:07:54 -0000
Subject: Re: Nash was Other fuel gauges...

Oh yes, thanks John. We (of a certain age) know and laugh at the Austin
Metropolitan which was, I understand, sold in the States as a Nash
Metropolitan.
I don't know if the Frazer Nash, rather racy sports car, has anything to do
with the American Nash but you know what they used to be for buying up names
etc (rather like today)
LR content: British Leyland once took over Rover and land Rover, today
Austin is dead, long live Rover!!

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+
            I !__|  [_]|_\___
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 07:22:18 -0500
Subject: Re: canīt change gear 

It sounds like one of the flat synchro springs has broken.Remove the top cover 
and
take a look at the synchro hub. You can then check that all three are still in
position.

> As an aside, I'm in the process of rebuilding my '53 80' and I've noticed
> that I can't shift the tranny into 3rd or fourth.  Reverse, 1st and second
> are fine.  All of the selector shaft and forks look fine (at least what I
> can see with the top cover off).  Could the synchro unit be siezed?  If I
> push hard on the 3/4 selector shaft I can just start to feel the gears
> engage, but that's it.  It doesn't seem to matter wether or not I spin the
> input or output shaft.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> tricks?
> J

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 07:27:03 -0500
Subject: Re: Trimming the Bulkhead

> in.  They seem to stick a little too far forward and thus cause the bulkhead
> to lean slightly aft as they are bolted to the steering box pillars.  I know
> that there are shims for aligning at this point but I have removed them all
> and still have a slight aft rake to the bulkhead.  As you may imagine, this
> makes the doors a little tight and also causes problems with the roof
> alignment.  Right now I have the windscreen tilted forward just a little to
> line up the top frame with the bold holes in the hard top.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
> pillars to the frame, will this give me some more adjustment room to pull
> the bulkhead forward?  I only need about 1/2 an inch...

 The metal support brackets have oval holes at the bottom to allow some
adjustment, slacken them off ,adjust the doors and windshield to fit and then
tighten them.

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:49:37 EST
Subject: Wanted: stuff

Howdy folks,
Anyone have a hardtop SIII parts vehicle laying (lying?) around?

I need some brackets for mounting the top of a inertia mount system.   Bren W.
tells me that all SIIIs have these, even tho' on models w/o inertial belts
they're covered up by the trim.

They're RN part # 348874 and 348873.  Is he right--are there hundreds of these
lurking under trim panels?  If you want to sell me a set (RN wants $35 ea. for
'em) pls. write me direct.

Bill Rice
Columbus, GA

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:03:52 EST
Subject: Re: Wanted: stuff

In a message dated 98-11-04 19:51:39 EST, you write:

<< I need some brackets for mounting the top of a inertia mount system.   Bren
W.
 tells me that all SIIIs have these, even tho' on models w/o inertial belts
 they're covered up by the trim. >>

   Which piece is this?  What would it look like and what trim is it hiding
under?  Sorry, I do not have a RN catalogue.

Enzo

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:34:41 EST
Subject: Re: 6cyl pisons in a four?

No, what they are talking about is putting the pistons from the Rover six into
one of the the IOE four cylinder engines. Unless the stroke is different they
would not fit the 2 liter but isn't there a 1.7 or something? 

Oh, by the way isn't there a t in that word? 

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:38:54 EST
Subject: Re: Solution: Alternate Intake Plumbing

In a message dated 98-11-04 11:51:12 EST, you write:

 I must say I am a little surprised that no one came out with "well I used a
 Schedule 90 PVC elbow duct-taped to the exhaust flange off of a ' 74 Chevy
 Vega welded to a piece of pipe from my kid's old jungle gym and glued to
 the air cleaner with a glob of RTV sealant."
 
 But that's OK- my intake is on the way so I'm happy.
 
 -Ben
 
 >>
If you are going to all that trouble put a K&N on it and be done with it.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:43:36 EST
Subject: Re: Solution: Alternate Intake Plumbing

In a message dated 98-11-04 12:00:51 EST, you write:

 Ok, then:
 
 At the 97 FL club rally*, there were a few lro's "daring" eachother to cross
 the pond at the campsite. This one person (who shall remain nameless, as it
 wasn't me) attempted it three times, each time the water won. He finally
 decided to "build" a snorkle then and there. Beer cans were found (not hard)
 and the tops and bottoms cut out. The bonnet was removed and this 3-cans-and-
 duct-tape snorkle was attached to the carb top. It looked straighter than the
 LR's body, btw. He then went back into the pond... I'll have to rate it as a
3
 banana bodge, since it did work.
 
 *Lake  >>
Hmmm. Ive always figured that scrapped Land rovers were made into beer cans.
Now we have evidence that the reverse is true.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:47:59 EST
Subject: Re: RR low beams are dead

In a message dated 98-11-04 13:44:51 EST, you write:

 When oncoming traffic flashes their lights at you, light up the Hellas on the
 roof. hehehe.
   >>
That's a lot of fun until that oncoming cop cranks up his light bar.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 21:08:34 EST
Subject: Re: Round Smiths Heater

In a message dated 98-11-04 18:00:33 EST, you write:

<< refered to as the leg burner.   >>
I think this description may be a bit optomistic.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 22:11:59 -0500
Subject: Sikkens paint codes needed

I am in need of the Sikkens code numbers for pastel Green and Limestone
Checked the FAQ but found no Sikkens codes
Anyone have this info?
Rgds
Steve Bradke

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From: Jim Fraser <fraserj@webhart.net>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 22:22:23 -0500
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_can=B4t_change_gear_?=

At 07:22 AM 11/4/98 -0500, you wrote:
>It sounds like one of the flat synchro springs has broken.Remove the top

cover and
>take a look at the synchro hub. You can then check that all three are
still in
>position.
>> As an aside, I'm in the process of rebuilding my '53 80' and I've noticed
>> that I can't shift the tranny into 3rd or fourth.  Reverse, 1st and second
>	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 12 lines)]
>> tricks?

Well D.H., you hit the nail right on the head!  I just 'fixed' my shifting
problem, two of the springs had turned sideways.  Now that I know what
caused the shifting problem, what caused the springs to turn and will it
cost me a bucket of money to fix?  Are tranny parts expensive?  There are a
few teeth on the synchro gear with a minor amount of wear, should I replace
the gear, or just clean up the teeth?  It looks like the synchro collar
wasn't sliding onto the gear fully (when in fourth?) and the teeth were
only half meshed.

Thank you very much for your help.

Jim Fraser

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 19:58:24 -0800
Subject: 59 II 88 steering question

Sorry for the cross post, but all input needed. I have just taken the
guts from two steering boxes and created another. I put a new bushing
in the steering box and honed it so that the new but used rocker shaft
would move: it was tough to turn by hand but still possible. After
reassembling the various parts it is easy enough to turn the inner
column by hand but it does take some effort. Once I put it back in the
car and bolted everything down and *finally* got longitudinal rod and
ball joint ends back in (PITA) and attached the steering wheel, while
still up on jacks I could turn the steering wheel and watch the wheels
actually stay in synch. Turning the wheel was no problem. Lowered the
truck and could still turn the wheel ok with the usual rubber/concrete
dispute. Everything looked/felt great!!!

Took the beastie out on the road. Everywhere I turned the wheel the
car actually went!! It didn't drift and require a 1/4 turn just to
feel the drift start the other direction. What joy!!!!!! Now for the
problem/question:

I noticed when going around bends in the road, I would turn the wheel
to keep me on the same arc as the road, but if I let go of the wheel
(joy ride time) the steering wheel and road wheels kept the same arc.
I had to actually straighten the wheel out to go straight after the
road straightened. I don't recall any other of my cars doing this. The
Disco straightens out on its own. My 62 MGA II is harder to turn than
the 88 and it will most definitely straighten out of its own accord.
The MGA has r&p steering. The Disco is power, but not sure what else.
And of course the 88 has recirculating ball.

Is the 88 supposed to straighten out or hold the turn when I let go?

Sorry for being so long winded. It's just kind of cool to have tight
solid steering. It's novel!!!

TIA,

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:49:39 -0800
Subject: Re: 59 II 88 steering question

Clayton I'm glad things are working better. I think your new problem may be
in the steering relay not in the steering box. If it is running dry the
extra friction will prevent the steering self centering. An old trick I
have used in the past is to take one of the screws out of the top of the
relay and fill it with penetrating oil. If it runs out of the bottom at the
very least you need a new seal. If it does not run out drive it that way
for a week or two and then drain and refil with 80 oil.

Ray
----------

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 20:50:22 -0800
Subject: Re: Series Parts Wanted

Bruce if you are still looking give us a call we have a set. Ray

----------

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 00:06:33 EST
Subject: Re: 59 II 88 steering question

In a message dated 98-11-04 23:00:15 EST, you write:

 Is the 88 supposed to straighten out or hold the turn when I let go?
 
 Sorry for being so long winded. It's just kind of cool to have tight
 solid steering. It's novel!!!
 
 TIA,
 
 Clayton Kirkwood >>
All vehicles are supposed to have steering that returns to center (or
somewhere near it) on their own. If I were you I would first try loosening the
slack adjustment a flat or two to see if the correct action returns. If not
the problem can be caused by a dry idler assembly, swivel pins being too
tight, or the axle housing being tilted so that there is no caster. The first
is easy to remedy (lube the idler), The last is easy to diagnose (alignment
shop) but the second can be a problem. You will need to check the manual for
that fix.
Good Luck.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Bill Fishel" <bfishel@cisnet.com>
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 1994 09:00:30 -0400
Subject: rear axles

Hi All
Well I really did it this time. For anybody wondering 
how far a rear diff will go without lubrication I got 
about 100 miles out of mine. Came to a screeching
halt from about 30 mph. Had to have it brought home
on a flat bed and the driver unloaded it by literally 
shaking it off the bed. Pulled the axles and propshaft
in a gravel driveway with just a touch of rain thrown in
for fun. Actually the fun part was being 50 ft. from the
heated garage.

As far as actual damage, I ruined the rear diff pinion 
bearing, pinion teeth, and crown wheel. The long axle
is also twisted. The axle twisted at the splines and along
its entire length.  

I'm puzzled as to why only the long side twisted and not
the short side if all things being equal and neither rear
wheel was able to rotate.

I replaced the diff with a spare but need to get axles. 
Anybody have any opinions on aftermarket axles over
genuine. Should I replace both or just the long side.

Bill Fishel
Yes, I checked the front diff and it was full.

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 02:02:06 -0500
Subject: camel trophy freelander detail photos

http://Empire.caloccia.net/Gallery/

Under the fl-* shots there are a number of Camel Trophy Freelander
shots just from the SEMA (specialty equipment manufacturers assoc.)
show now going on in Las Vegas...

The Freelander is at the WARN stand in the LV convention center
the show runs through friday and is not open to the public

They ran warn 6000# winches off of the pin hitches with only a double
thickness of 1/4" steel plate holding the winch onto the pin, and the
pin hitches were rated for 3.5 tonnes - not much over... obviously
the 'A' bar is attached pretty well, and not just built for looks.

Ran into Greg and Brandi from Safarigard on Tuesday there, as well
as the folks from ARB who had a stand.

There are also a few shots from the mid-atlantic last month (ma-*)

New Beetles seemed to be the darling of the show, with at least a
dozen of them around sprouting various products. The Yoko folks had
one upside down on a body stand showing off their wheels and some 
neuspeed mods...

Chevy was showing off the Tim Taylor Tool Time Van ...

Ciao,
	-bill

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From: "Franklin H. Yap" <FHYap@ix.netcom.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 23:13:48 -0800
Subject: Little Nash Rambler(No LR Content)

john cranfield wrote:

> Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 03/11/98 23:05:17 BST, you write:
> > << As in the "Little Nash Rambler" Beep Beep??? >>
>  This is a reference to an obscure 1950s song about a small car that got
> attached to a much larger one and got dragged along at outrageous
> speeds. I believe it was an Austin Metropolitan in disguise.

I didn't follow this thread so I apologize if I am wrong.

The line from the song is about a a person driving a Cadillac and the
"Little Nash Rambler" is behind the Caddie going "Beep Beep."  The Caddie
speeds up but the Rambler keeps honking.  At the end of the song, the Caddie
is topped out and the Rambler pulls up and asks the Caddie how do I get out
of second gear.  I don't remember the name of the singing group but I recall
the album cover had three large fellows riding a scooter.

Frank

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 09:34:09 +0000
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

>In a message dated 03/11/98 23:05:17 BST, you write:
><< As in the "Little Nash Rambler" Beep Beep??? >>
>eh?

I think he means Austin Metropolitan Frank.But it doesnt scan...

Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 5 Nov 1998 06:41:48 -0500
Subject: Re: 59 II 88 steering question

A few things to check:

1. is the toe-in correct? This will affect steering centering.

2. How's the backlash in the gears set? if that's too tight, it won't
self-return (done this one on more than one occasion...)

3. The steering relay has oil in it, right?

                    ajr

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