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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:14:06 -0500 
Subject: snorkels... again

Just received the 35$ snorkel head from JB Landrovers (UK), total cost (with
shipping is 41 GBP) so about 60$, this means the total price of the
'homegrown' snorkel is about 100$US. 

Pictures will be made available some time in the next few weeks... I hope to
install it on the D90 next weekend...

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            | D90 #1120,'71 SIIa LWT  |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: "Andy Woodward" <azw@aber.ac.uk>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:42:57 -0000
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

\ have been keeping an eye on a piece of trim that was starting to rust,
\what I did was smear anti-seize on the rusty area (FYI a little will go a
\very long way).  So far it has surpassed my expectations as I applied this

In what way does Antiseize differ from grease for this application? And if it 
does differ in any way significantly other than having bits of soft metal in 
it, 
could it be used for rustproofing exhausts?

Galvanised trim? I just waxoyl mine. Makes it look darker but I dont much 
care - it doesnt rust afterwards.......

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From: Erik van Dyck <erikvandyck@mindspring.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:20:42 -0500
Subject: Red spots on galvanized trim

>my 70 Rover is just started to get some red spots on some of the galvanized
>body cappings.  No rust,flakes,pitting or anything.  Is there a way to stop
>this short of blasting and regalvanizing?  Is there a paint type product
>that can be applied over the cappings and keep them similar/same color?
>Thanks
>Pete

  For what it's worth....I've had excellent results using the Rustoleum
Zinc Rich paint from the local hardware store.  Shake it well, spray it on
your red spot and wait for it to dry well.  It'll look like you sprayed it
with dull gray primer - until you do the final step:  Buff it with a fine
brass brush.  The dull surface finish will be gone and you'll be left with
a pretty good facsimile of galvanized steel.  If you still see some red
give it another coat.  The corners of my windscreen frame got this
treatment and it looks fine.  It was a lot easier and cheaper than
regalvanizing!

   erik
Erik van Dyck
Suwanee, Georgia
'73 Series III

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From: Karl Kurz <kkurz@acad.umm.maine.edu>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:47:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: LR Birth Certificate

I just received the factory letter on two of my Rovers and the ex_MoD
unit was delivered to " C.V.D Irvine(sp??)"   Anyone have any idea
was C.V.D  stands for ???

Karl K. Kurz, N1JZY
POB 352, Machiasport
Maine, USA, 04655
1964 MoD#8  IIA
1957 88 Diesel  I

"Walk in harmony with the earth with your best Brittany and your favorite
20 bore, and you are likely to limit out on partridge and woodcock."

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:52:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken axle repair 

All that has been said about the possibility of pieces  falling in the
the casing is true however I have successfully removed many stubs
without diff removal. If you take the stub out before removing the diff
you can compare the 2 ends and determine if there are missing pieces, if
so you must take the diff out, if not you can save a lot of time and
effort. The Oil must be changed regardless.
   Removing the stub in situ is complicated by the spider gear shaft
that partially blocks the passage through the center of the diff. I made
a tool to pass by the shaft so that I could give the stub a sharp whack
which sents it flying up to the end of the axle tube. 
  The tool consists of a piece of 1 inch iron waterpipe long enough to
reach  past the diff from the long side and welded to this is a piece of
hayrake tooth (ie something that is very tough and not easily bent)
about 5/16 in diameter and ground flat along one side. This extends
about 9 inches from the end of the pipe and is sized to pass by the
shaft and is stout enough to transmit the hammer blow to the stub.
  This saw regular service until a Salisbury axle came into my life :)
     It was unusual that the diff had to be pulled but I always
carefully checked for missing pieces that might have escaped.
      John and Muddy

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:04:10 +0100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?can=B4t_change_gear_?=

Dear collected wisdom of the list,

I am in trouble again. After some gearbox work I canīt change gear. I have
taken off the gearbox, taken off the bellhousing and changed the front
layshaft- and primary pinion bearings. After reassembly I canīt change
gear. With some force I can move it a little bit. The whole operation has
been performed during three weeks and I canīt imagine things have started
to seize. I can add that I havenīt filled the gearbox with oil yet. Does
anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donīt tell me I
need to take off the gearbox again... 

Peter Thorén 
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
Långmyrtorp
740 20 Vänge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:14:31 -0400
Subject: Re: canīt change gear 

Peter Thoren wrote:
> Dear collected wisdom of the list,
> I am in trouble again. After some gearbox work I canīt change gear. I have
> taken off the gearbox, taken off the bellhousing and changed the front
> layshaft- and primary pinion bearings. After reassembly I canīt change
> gear. With some force I can move it a little bit. The whole operation has
> been performed during three weeks and I canīt imagine things have started
> to seize. I can add that I havenīt filled the gearbox with oil yet. Does
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donīt tell me I
> need to take off the gearbox again...
 A couple of things come to mind
 Is the gear lever sitting in the correct place in the selector slot?
 When you had the box apart  did you remove the selector forks and if so
are they back in the correct place?
Is the Box in a gear now or is it in neutral?
   John and Muddy

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:15:28 +0100
Subject: Re: can't change gear 

Date:          Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:04:10 +0100
Reply-to:      lro@playground.sun.com
X-To:          lro@playground.sun.com
From:          Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Subject:       can't change gear 

Dear collected wisdom of the list,

I am in trouble again. After some gearbox work I canĶt change gear. I have
taken off the gearbox, taken off the bellhousing and changed the front
layshaft- and primary pinion bearings. After reassembly I canĶt change
gear. With some force I can move it a little bit. The whole operation has
been performed during three weeks and I canĶt imagine things have started
to seize. I can add that I havenĶt filled the gearbox with oil yet. Does
anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donĶt tell me I
need to take off the gearbox again... 

Peter Thor_n 
Peter Thoren 
1975 109" SIII Diesel
Member #1379 Swedish Land Rover Club
L_ngmyrtorp
740 20 V_nge
Sweden
phone/fax +46 18 39 20 56
peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:18:50 +0100
Subject: Re: can't change gear 

Oeps, that one slipped away,

Did you use assembling grease?
I would fill her up and try again....
Prayer might help as well..............

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:52:23 EST
Subject: Advice on O.D. intallation?

    I'll be installing a Toro overdrive in the next few days and would like to
see if there are any tips out there that will help me.  You know, the "If I
had to do it again" type of tips.
    I may have some more specific queries once I get up to my elbows in
overdrive, but for now, please pass on anything you might think will help me.

Thanks in Advance
Enzo

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From: Peter Thoren <Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se>
Date: 	Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:53:04 +0100
Subject: =?iso-8859-1?Q?Re:_can=B4t_change_gear_?=

Yes, John you were right! Wrong slot... 

Reliefed but looking like the fool I am,

Peter

  Peter Thoren, PhD
  
  Department of Genetics
  Uppsala University
  Box 7003; S-750 07 Uppsala
  Phone: +46 18 67 12 69, 67 26 64
  Fax:   +46 18 67 27 05
  e-mail peter.thoren@genetik.uu.se

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:02:15 -0500
Subject: Sanatna engines

TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com> wrote:

>Anyone know anything about them??
>They are supposed to be a LR four cylinder with two added cylinders.  
>Rumor has it that they take LR four cylinder engine parts.

I've read about 'em and seen photos.  Basically, it was the LR 2.25 but
with two more cylinders of similar size in the casting so basically you'd
have a 3.4 litre six cylinder.  Sanatna used this on their "Series IV"
vhicles.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 10:02:13 -0500
Subject: Ziebart

Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU> wrote:

>On the thread of underbody protectant.  Has anybody ever checked out 
>this stuff.  I ran into a vendor at a local car show he said it will reduce
>noise by 11db.  He quoted $199 for the whole undercarriage excluding moving
>parts.  Also he said it is guaranteed.

I've got mixed emotions on this stuff.  The *very* first place i drove the
Rover after leaving the dealer's lot was to a Ziebart place.  At the time,
it was the only product like it around.

Yes, there was a guarantee, but you had to return regularly (and pay) for a
respray.  There were places inside my frame - easily visible when I cut off
the rear-frame cross member - that were still shiny black after 25 years.
The right bulkhead outrigger apparently got missed; I cut that off last
summer.  All in all, not too shabby for a quarter century.

Still, it hardens with age and can flake off.  Something with wax and oil
in it so it can "creep" and seal scratches is superior.

As to the sound deadening qualities...right!  That'll only happen if you
apply an inch or two of asphalt!  Go with the waxoyl or a home-made
concoction and do it yearly...you'll save both money and your Rover.  If
you do go with the Ziebart, make sure they concentrate *inside* the
frame....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:40:07 EST
Subject: Re: Advice on O.D. intallation?

In a message dated 11/3/98 9:55:24 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Jpslotus27@aol.com writes:

     I'll be installing a Toro overdrive in the next few days and would like
to
 see if there are any tips out there that will help me.  You know, the "If I
 had to do it again" type of tips. >>

Yes:
1.  Take note of the position the the folded over tab on the mainshaft nut
when you undo it to remove the gear.

2.  Trim off 2 of the tabs on the lockwasher so that they do not stick out
further than the mainshaft nut.  

3.  When you install the coupler on the mainshaft, lube it with grease (cv
joint grease) and put the lock washer with the long tab in the same position
the folded over tab was in (it'll be relatively close when you torque down.

4.Put the transfer box in neutral and the gearbox in gear.

5. With the bottom plate off of the transferbox, you will be able to rotate
the overdrive with the intermediate gear cluster to get it to line up.

6.  If the OD doesn't slip on with slight adjustment of the shaft's rotation,
suspect that the lock tabs are fouling the sleeve and take a look.

Speaking from experience (last week)

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:43:05 EST
Subject: =?ISO-8859-1?Q?Re: can=B4t_change_gear_?=

In a message dated 11/3/98 9:09:36 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Peter.Thoren@genetik.uu.se writes:

<< After some gearbox work I canīt change gear. I have
 taken off the gearbox, taken off the bellhousing and changed the front
 layshaft- and primary pinion bearings.  >>

Did you change the pins on the mainshaft?  If so, I would suspect fouling of
the second gear against the pin that holds the bushing in place.

Nate

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From: "\"Mr. Mike\" Passaretti" <passaretti@sol.med.ge.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 10:28:42 -0600
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

>>>>> "DNDANGER" == DNDANGER  <DNDANGER@aol.com> writes:

    DNDANGER> I think Jaeger was an alternate brand name owned
    DNDANGER> by Smiths. Kind of like Sieko and Pulsar or
    DNDANGER> Bulova and Caravelle. The Jaeger guages seem to
    DNDANGER> show up in the higher priced cars such as
    DNDANGER> Jaguar. maybe one of our experts can explain all
    DNDANGER> of this.

My TR-4 has Jaeger gauges, excepting the Ammeter, which is
Lucas.  Just another data point.
							-MM

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 06:49:49 -1000
Subject: Re: Red spots on galvanized trim

>  For what it's worth....I've had excellent results using the Rustoleum
>Zinc Rich paint from the local hardware store.  Shake it well, spray it on
>your red spot and wait for it to dry well.  It'll look like you sprayed it
>with dull gray primer - until you do the final step:  Buff it with a fine
>brass brush.  The dull surface finish will be gone and you'll be left with
>a pretty good facsimile of galvanized steel.  If you still see some red
>give it another coat.  The corners of my windscreen frame got this
>treatment and it looks fine.  It was a lot easier and cheaper than
>regalvanizing!

Excellent.  How long ago did you do this and have you seen any signs of it
reappearing?  Did you sand/treat the rust before spraying?
Mahalo Pete

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:04:31 -0800 
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 98 13:01:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

>Wax can protect against salt air.  I live on the coast.  I suspect you 
are probably near it as well.

>There are those who seem to have religious biases against waxing a series 
rig.

I have kept my Series III washed and waxed since I bought it new in '73.
Despite its being kept outside for the first 12 years or so of its life, it
still has its original paint.  The paint has weathered very thin in a few
places, and there are scratches and bad patches here and there, but for the
most part the paint has held up quite well.  There's no question that it
needs a new paint job, but the fact that the original paint still looks okay
after 25 years is due, I believe, to its being taken care of.  There were
times when the vehicle was black with dirt, particularly on my trips to the
Yukon Territories and British Columbia, but I always washed it down
thoroughly whenever I could, even while on a trip.  Accumulated dirt will
hold moisture, and that moisture plus chemicals and salt kicked up by the
wheels, or salt in the air (I lived in Hawaii), is the exact formula for
electrolysis, corronsion, and rust.

The two best ways to make a vehicle, any vehicle, last a long time are to
use it, and to keep it clean.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:10:07 -1000
Subject: Re: Broken Axle removal

Aloha
while on this subject:
My project came with all receipts for the almost 8k worth of parts purchased
over the past 6 years.  No axles in the lot.  I have heard/read that some
axles may show some torsional stress near the spline before they let go and
if you see this, replace imediately.  I was not planning on rebuilding my
axles, have all new seals, etc and no leaks.  I guess I will pull the axles
to inspect, but if there is nothing visibly wrong should I replace them all
just to be safe?  Money not time is an issue with me.  We are in Hawaii for
the next 3 years and I am a full time college student while the SO serves
God and country.  I make a bit on the side doing computer consulting to
handle the many hobbies, BUT (yes it is a big one (not mine, the word)) I am
looking at a frame, complete left wing, front springs and shocks and
possible front axle housing, so I am building/fixing as much as I can my
self.  I have read the posts, including the results of the poll conducted on
the subject.  If it was you, would you scrape up the $$ (800 with shipping)
and replace all four?
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 07:19:53 -1000
Subject: Thanks for all the info

Mahalo to everyone for the many replies to my many questions of late.

Rivets-  I am going to order some from RN and make an airhammer attachment
to match the dome.  Then. . . practice allot.
Galv Rust-Attempt a lite scotchbrite of the area and then auto wax.
Roll Cage- still debating internal-vs-external, but am leaning towards the
later.  I really like Bettaweld's 6 point (as seen in LROI adverts)
Thanks again
Pete

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:28:47 -0800 
Subject: Re: Swivel pin bearings??

From: pete.c88@juno.com (peter j cosmides)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:01:58 +0000
Subject: Swivel pin bearings??

>I am a new lister and thought I would tap into this vast knowledge
bank??!!!   I am getting some strange noises coming from the front end of
my Series 3...very inconsistant, knocks, grinding etc.  (freewheel hubs
by the way, so I have isolated the diff. etc etc) But I have made all the
obvious exterior checks and all seems fine.

There are several things you might want to check.  First, if your swivel
bearings were wearing out, I don't think that would cause your steering to
tighten up unless the bearings actually started to freeze up.  Things would
get very sloppy up front as the bearings wore out, but I don't think they'd
get stiff.

Check your steering relay.  They are notorious for wearing out their lower
oil seal and then leaking out all the lubricant (gear oil).  Once the
lubricant is gone, the relay will bind up.  Steering relays can be rebuilt,
but there's a great big spring in there that's a real pain in the butt, and
generally launches itself into the next county when you take the thing apart
(it can be dangerous, so watch out).  If you can afford it, it's a lot
easier to simply replace the relay altogether.

In the meantime, make sure there is lubricant in the relay you have now.
There is no drain and fill system; you fill it by removing two of the cover
screws in the top of the unit, one to add oil through and the other to let
the air out as the oil comes in.  If you have a bad lower seal, one thing
you can do is put STP into the relay.  I'm not a big fan of STP and would
never recommend anyone put it in an engine. But it does have that "clings to
everything it touches" quality, and it will take a lot longer to leak out
though a worn out lower relay seal than gear oil.  My relay (it's original)
lost its seal years ago, but I've been putting STP in it and so far, the
relay still works as advertised.  I have a brand new one on the shelf, but
thanks to some design idiot or assembly mechanic at Land Rover back in the
early '70s, the only way to remove the two long bolts that fasten my relay
to the frame is to the rear, which means I have to remove the radiator
first.  None of that is a big deal, but it takes time which I haven't had,
so I put in the STP.

The clunks could be a couple of things.  They could be your spring and/or
shackle bushings working in their mounts, or the springs and/'or shackles
banging back and forth on their bushings.  This situation could indicate
worn bushings (like all of mine), and the banging around would be aggravated
if your steering is stiff, as there will be even greater sideloads on the
springs, shackles, and bushings.  You also might have worn tie-rod ends,
although I don't know that these would actually make noise.  Worn tie rod
ends would contribute to sloppy steering, bad tracking, and poor alignment,
but I don't know that they'd make the clunks you describe.  You can check
your tie rod ends by grabbing hold of the tie rod and steering rod and
jerking them around.  If you feel any play, you've got at least one worn out
tie rod end.  You should be able to rotate each rod to the limit of the
movement allowed by the tie rod ends, but there should be a fair amount of
resistance to the rotation.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:28:17 -0800
Subject: Anti-seize - was Galvanized Care

I have yet to use Anti-seize on the galvanizing - I am a scotchbrite, then
wax fan.

I thought that I would pass on a good possible use though.

I use it on all bolts that are prone to rust and stick. While rebuilding my
diesel heater (in my boat) last week, I reassembled the stove with
anti-seize - what I did that was unusual was that after I got the cast iron
top on, I wiped a bit of anti-seize (accidentally) on the cast iron while
cleaning it.

Well, I read the label on the can - good to 2000 degrees - and I smeared the
whole cast iron top of my 13 year old diesel stove with a thin application
of anti-seize. I buffed it out till the rag was left clean. After heating
up, the anti-seize turned a beautiful dark slate gray.

Cast iron + boats = rusted cast iron. I have used stove black before, with
poor results.

So, where is the LR content? Tired of that rusty looking manifold and tail
pipe? I now highly recommend anti-seize - it makes the iron look like new
iron again - and protects it.....not even a bit of copper look to it.
Beautiful enough for the main salon of our yacht, let alone a
manifold.......now I'll climb into the engine room to treat the steel
exhaust before the water injection......

Cheers
David
Full-time father of Alexander - 3.85 years old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home, ketch rigged
wahooadv@earthlink.net

end of message

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From: asfco <asfco@banet.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:27:24 -0500
Subject: life is good

My '68 lla has been awaiting completion of a paint job for almost a
year now....It is all apart no roof, doors wings etc.. (Things run a
little slow here in Upstate NY )  the "friend" who is doing this job has
been working out of town a lot so far I have the bonnet/breakfast/front
wings done and looking great, I  should have the doors back next week.
   Anyway...wife wanted me to clean out the garage so...under all that
crap I found my Land-Rover.  I hooked up the battery charger, removed
the plugs and gave a couple squirts of Kroil into each cyl. I came back
in an hour re installed the plugs and after cranking it over twice it
came to life>
  Of course I had to clean underneath it so after I figured out where
reverse was...out of the garage it came. Not being content to just let
it sit there idling I took it for a (Cold) ride. You should have seen
the looks I got.
Still runs & Drives like a charm.
After all this time I almost forgot just how much I love this old
Land-Rover
life is good again
Rover On!
Rgds
Steve Bradke 
Niskayuna, NY

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From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:43:46 -0500
Subject: Alternate Intake Plumbing

When I bought my '65 88" (2.25 petrol) last year, there was no functioning
air cleaner.  The original oil bath air cleaner was there and I suppose it
would have functioned just fine, but since there was nothing connecting it
to the carb it wasn't really doing me much good.  I looked in the usual
catalogs for the flexible hose and elbow joint to make the connection but
that was just a little too much coin to part with for a fancy tube.  I
found a cheap little chrome paper-element filter housing that fit on top of
the Zenith and popped that on.

I'm starting to drive it more now and I would like to begin using the
original air cleaner.  I am wondering if anyone has figured out a good way
to connect the oil bath air cleaner to the Zenith carb without using the
original elbow tube thing.

Or- if anyone has serviceable intake plumbing that they don't need- get in
touch with me and we'll work out a deal.

Thanks,
Ben Nibali
Maryville, TN

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From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:48:43 -0500
Subject: Off the list for awhile

The movers come tomorrow so I'll have to catch up with what goes on in the
next couple weeks when I get hooked back up.

Steve

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:51:23 -0400
Subject: Re: Broken axle repair

john cranfield wrote:
> All that has been said about the possibility of pieces  falling in the
> the casing is true however I have successfully removed many stubs
> without diff removal. If you take the stub out before removing the diff
> you can compare the 2 ends and determine if there are missing pieces, if
> so you must take the diff out, if not you can save a lot of time and
> effort. The Oil must be changed regardless.
>    Removing the stub in situ is complicated by the spider gear shaft
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> a tool to pass by the shaft so that I could give the stub a sharp whack
> which sents it flying up to the end of the axle tube.
>.
I have never taken a diff out to replace an axle, and use a magnet to
draw out the stub when it gets knocked out of the diff. I have even
driven another 1000 miles on the same oil afterwards ( just to teach the
offending  little axle bits a lesson) I have replaced only one diff on
Pig in the last 13 years, but that's for another reason and another
story, don't ask. I do also replace the gear oil on a regular basis,
which is part of the other story.
     YMMV

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:05:34 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternate Intake Plumbing

Ben,

The tube itself for the air cleaner is available at Pep Boys or AutoZone - it's
not as heavy-duty or rigid as the original but it serves fine. I've had a
generic replacement on Mr. Churchill for almost a year now with no problems.

If you have the gooseneck to connect to the carburettor it should cost you less
than $10.

                         ajr

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:56:05 EST
Subject: Re: LR Birth Certificate

Sorry for bandwidth, but I love the signature, a LOT
Zack Arbios
Three legged brittany & springer cross

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 09:02:40 -1000
Subject: Re: Alternate Intake Plumbing

>The tube itself for the air cleaner is available at Pep Boys or AutoZone -

it's
>not as heavy-duty or rigid as the original but it serves fine. I've had a
>generic replacement on Mr. Churchill for almost a year now with no
problems.
>If you have the gooseneck to connect to the carburettor it should cost you
>generic replacement on Mr. Churchill for almost a year now with no
less
>than $10.
>                         ajr

Alan,
just curious, when you say tube do you mean the flexable hose or a different
part?
Thanks
Pete

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From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 13:15:10 -0500 
Subject: Re: axle replacement

<< Peter hope asks about preemptive axle replacement. >> 

I would go ahead and replace the rear axles, but not the front ones. I don't
think the front ones are nearly as prone to breakage as the rears.  All of
the cases that i have heard about have been broken while under stress.  The
rears just break, usually somewhere embarrassing, like a stop light, or a
parking lot.  Keep the set you pull out as spares.  One thing I was going to
do, but didn't because it was too cold when I replaced mine, was to score a
line the length the axle shaft.  Drag racers and the like do this;  if you
pull the axle for inspection and the line isn't perfectly straight, toss it.

David
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:27:25 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternate Intake Plumbing

Peter asks:

Alan,
just curious, when you say tube do you mean the flexable hose or a different
part?
Thanks
Pete

Yes, I mean the flexible hose thing. Mr. Churchill's was a rotted mess from the
get-go - which got friction-taped till i could find a suitable alternative.

What I ended up installing was a flexible air-intake hose from the local
auto-parts place. i used to have the spec. around here somewhere.....if I can
find it I will post.

What I did to fit it was measure the length end-to-end of the original
elephant's trunk and the diameter of the air-cleaner intake, then purchased a
hose to fit. Except for having to oval one end to fit the gooseneck, the new one
slipped right on and clamped with no problems.

                    ajr

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 14:37:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Off the list for awhile

Don't worry, it'll be the same old drivel while you're gone.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:02:59 -0500
Subject: Coming storm

Y'all might want to make plans to jump in the Rover and drive to someplace
real dark two weeks from now.  November 17 is the date of the Leonid meteor
*storm* which astronomers say will be the biggest since '66.  Heads up....

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:07:08 -0800 
Subject: RE: Coming storm

Sandy writes:

	Y'all might want to make plans to jump in the Rover and drive to
someplace
	real dark two weeks from now.  November 17 is the date of the Leonid
meteor
*storm* which astronomers say will be the biggest since '66.  Heads up....

And you might want to leave your GPS behind.  "They" are all worried about
the Leonids wiping out a many of the satellites up there...

Paul in Victoria.

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From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 15:15:38 -0500
Subject: Re: Alternate Intake Plumbing

>The tube itself for the air cleaner is available at Pep Boys or AutoZone -

it's
>not as heavy-duty or rigid as the original but it serves fine. I've had a
>generic replacement on Mr. Churchill for almost a year now with no
problems.
>If you have the gooseneck to connect to the carburettor it should cost you
>generic replacement on Mr. Churchill for almost a year now with no
less
>than $10.
>generic replacement on Mr. Churchill for almost a year now with no

Actually I suppose I am really looking for the gooseneck (elbow) part that
attaches to the carb, as this is the pricey bit.  The flexible hose part I
can work out once I have something to attach to on both ends.

Any more ideas?  C'mon, list-  I'm sure someone out there has a 2.25
breathing through a piece of PVC pipe or something...  Let's hear about it.

-Ben

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John Putnam <jdputnam@oriongps.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 08:50:22 -0800
Subject: Lusas switches & fuses

Hey Gang,

Does the fuse box in a SIIa really work.  About 2 years ago I was driving home 
one night when my high beam switch failed.  Next thing you know, the cab filled 
with smoke and I was without wiring harness.  After inspecting the system I 
found that the high beam switch had shorted out causing the headlight leads to 
torch most of the wires in the harness.  All of this occurred without any of 
the 2 fuses burning out.  And the system was pretty much straight Lucas ( Delco 
Alt & wiper leads were tapped for a rear window wiper and intermittent switch). 
 I purchased new a switch and wiring loom from British Pacific.  About a week 
after I replaced it, I was working on the in the Cascade mountains well off the 
beaten path when the positive lead to the inspection plug bounced loose (my 
fault) and once again caused a short to torch the loom.  Still no Lucas fuse 
was blown.  When I field patched the system (razor blade and electrical tape in 
the woods 30 miles form the nearest town off road in the Cascade Mountains 
would have made McCiever proud) I burnt the Lucas fuse box in a ritual 
sacrifice and 
replaced it with 2 NAPA 10 Fuse blocks.  Never had a problem since.

John Putnam
'70 SIIa SWB 'Rhino'
Orion GPS, Inc.
Forest Grove, Oregon

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:24:07 -0500
Subject: FOR SALE:!!!

<<< SORRY FOR THE CROSS POST >>>>

FOR SALE:

1- Discovery Brushbar (excellent condition)   $250
1- Disco/ RR Running boards (Exc Cond)   $250
1- 6 Disc Changer (LRNA) (Ex Cond)       $325
1- Basic Thule Rack (tall feet & load bars)   $100

Please e-mail me off-line if you are interested. These accessories are not
mine, but a friends who's turning in his leased disco. I have seen the
equipment and it's in great condidtion, as his wife drove the disco
(mostly around town)  and there has been little to no off-roading.

Cheers,
Christopher Dillard Dba          Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc)
95 Discovery V8i (Rusty II)        cdillard@aholdusa.com
55 Series I    (???)                     Greenville, SC USA
55 Series I (The Green Hornet)
SoLaRos #136

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:44:22 EST
Subject: Re: Electric cooling fans

In a message dated 02/11/98 02:41:29 BST, you write:

<< One thing I would like to do is fabricate a frame to hold
 them in place and get the weight (minimal) off the radiator core. They work
 quite well under any circumstances and I swear by them. >>

A ladder frame of 1" angle ali worked to carry twin fans on my Rangie. I no
longer have the vehicle so cannot measure for you.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:44:26 EST
Subject: Re: lifting handles

In a message dated 02/11/98 03:54:38 BST, you write:

  The Handles/bumpers actually did come off the jeep for the prototype
 Land Rover and worked well so they were continued exactly the same. It
 takes a trained eye to tell them apart. I sold a set to a guy who was
 restoring a ww2 jeep.
   >>
The British Army replace them with Bumperettes which do the job of protecting
the rear end better than the handles. Very highly sought after in the UK, you
can get them new but they cost a lot of money (comparitively)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:44:29 EST
Subject: Re: Rover coverage in a USA mag

In a message dated 02/11/98 04:43:14 BST, you write:

<< << There are four articles in " 4wheel drive and sport utility magazine"
just
  about the objects of our affection. It's a L.R. 50th anniv special for
  anyone that is interested. >>
 
 And hopefully we'll see another article in the forthcoming 50 years... It is
 not too surprising that their "50th" tribute had 3/4 articles based on
 coilers... what about the vehicles that allowed LR to have a 10th, 20th, 30th
 etc. anniversaries?
  >>

Agreed Pat,
and what anniversary was it last month when the same magazine was almost full
of Land Cr**s*rs ??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:44:32 EST
Subject: Re: Series Dictionary, etc

In a message dated 02/11/98 17:01:54 BST, you write:

<<  specially liked the:
 "SPOT
 Describes a Stupid Previous Owner Trick. One recent example was a PO who got
 power for his driving lights from the -fuel gauge-. "
 
 I knew this was going to become a classic.
  >>

Yer famous Luis :-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:44:35 EST
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

In a message dated 02/11/98 17:18:12 BST, you write:

<< >This one says "Jaeger", definetly british, but never heard of that name.
Is
 >this right?
 Yes Luis,that's right.Used to be called British Jaeger.I had Jaeger
 instruments in a 1932 MG I owned many years ago.Got absorbed by Smith's
 Instruments I think,but were always fitted to "upmarket" cars at one
 time,despite the fact they were probably no better (or worse) than the
 standard Smith's product. >>

and there's a family connection  with the Jaeger chain of posh shops in
British cities selling posh jumpers and raincoats - used to be a LR joke about
needing to buy best quality sweaters and macs 'cos the Land Rover would break
down at night in the rain.
Libelous of course..... as if...

BTW for anoraks of old British cars, I was at the Frazer Nash factory the
other day. Don't make cars now tho, they do speciality measuring gear for
engineering. Same company many years on.

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Don Fee <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 13:47:28 -0700
Subject: LRs Running Wild

Chanced onto a great LR flick last night while watching the other tube.
A 1995 docu/adventure movie called Running Wild. Quite a number of
various series units. A series I missing right wing, late series IIA
stripped down units, and the poacher patrol in their new  series IIA or
III. Exciting to watch the Landies race(?) around the African bushlands
and plains. Even better to see Brooke Shields' pretty butt parked in a
Landy seat. Good night's entertainment for the fans. (LR fans, that is).

-- 
Cheers,
Don Fee  

1968 series IIA 88" (our DandY Landy) Now in my shop preparing for Spring
1967 series IIA 109" s/w Safari  Still a yard sculpture

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 14:45:44 -0800
Subject: Re: Advice on O.D. intallation?

Jpslotus27@aol.com wrote:
>     I'll be installing a Toro overdrive in the next few days and would like to
> see if there are any tips out there that will help me.  You know, the "If I
> had to do it again" type of tips.
>     I may have some more specific queries once I get up to my elbows in
> overdrive, but for now, please pass on anything you might think will help me.

To see what problems I had installing my Toro, visit
http://www.users.uswest.net/~jimfoo
and click on the Land Rover section.

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 17:04 -0500
Subject: RE: Other fuel gauges...

> I was at the Frazer Nash factory the
> other day.

As in the "Little Nash Rambler" Beep Beep???

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 12:04:24 -1000
Subject: Re: Alternate Intake Plumbing

>Actually I suppose I am really looking for the gooseneck (elbow) part that
>attaches to the carb, as this is the pricey bit.  The flexible hose part I
>can work out once I have something to attach to on both ends.
>Any more ideas?  C'mon, list-  I'm sure someone out there has a 2.25
>breathing through a piece of PVC pipe or something...  Let's hear about it.
>-Ben

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>breathing through a piece of PVC pipe or something...  Let's hear about it.
>-Ben
Couldn't you conect the flex hose directly to the mouth of the carb?
Pete

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From: Don Fee <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 14:11:42 -0700
Subject: Handles vs Bumperettes

Either as replacment for the handles or as additional protection for the
stern, try to get a hold of a short piece of that heavy rubber bullnose
used for the edge of loading ramps, etc. They have holes through them at
8" centres (I think) and one small piece on each side will protect your
lights and your handles from damage. Make great push protection as well.
-- 
Cheers,
Don Fee  

1968 series IIA 88"  (our DandY Landy)
1967 series IIA 109" s/w Safari

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 16:11:01 -0600
Subject: RE: Series Dictionary, etc

>In a message dated 02/11/98 17:01:54 BST, you write:
><<  specially liked the:
> "SPOT
> Describes a Stupid Previous Owner Trick. One recent example was a PO who

got
> power for his driving lights from the -fuel gauge-. "
> I knew this was going to become a classic.
>Yer famous Luis :-)>
>Best Cheers

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>Best Cheers
>Frank

Let me enjoy my 5 minutes of fame, please Frank!
:-}

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 18:28:40 -0400
Subject: Re: lifting handles

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 02/11/98 03:54:38 BST, you write:
>   The Handles/bumpers actually did come off the jeep for the prototype
>  Land Rover and worked well so they were continued exactly the same. It
>  takes a trained eye to tell them apart. I sold a set to a guy who was
>  restoring a ww2 jeep.
> The British Army replace them with Bumperettes which do the job of protecting

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> the rear end better than the handles. Very highly sought after in the UK, you
> can get them new but they cost a lot of money (comparitively)
You are exactly right which is why old Muddy has the military version
and I am carefully hoarding a spare set. They still havn't been able to
help with trees that are not perfectly straight which is why I am not 
hoarding those big NA signal light lens :(
    John and Mud

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:51:38 EST
Subject: Re: problems subscribing from another ISP

In a message dated 02/11/98 21:59:13 BST, you write:

<< Frank,
 Have you tried to send yourself a message using this new account and
 checking it out?
 I >>

Luis,
good idea, I'll try it,
 ta

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:52:01 EST
Subject: Re: Ziebart?

In a message dated 02/11/98 22:56:04 BST, you write:

<< On the thread of underbody protectant.  Has anybody ever checked out this
 stuff.  I ran into a vendor at a local car show he said it will reduce
 noise by 11db.  He quoted $199 for the whole undercarriage excluding moving
 parts.  Also he said it is guaranteed.  You can renew it every year for
 $34.95.  Now this sounds like a good deal to me but I am pretty uninformed.  
 	Would there be disadvantages to spraying the bottom of the bed and under
 the seat box etc.  I would appreciate any opinions on this stuff.
  >>
stinks like billio, drips everywhere for months and, in the UK at least the
guarantee is worthless unless it is installed by a registered installer (wow,
what does it take to spray stuff?) and is regularly checked and the vehicle is
new...

problem is the stuff works... I have a test piece of  steel (eighteen years
old now) given to me by Ziebart at a press do where the untreated piece has
virtually disappeared through rust. It's out back of the garage by the
incinerator, wheelbarrow etc and I just left it, instead of junking. Every now
and again I have a look and a marvel (but do not breathe in)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:52:06 EST
Subject: Re: Santanna 6 cyl engines

In a message dated 03/11/98 01:45:29 BST, you write:

<< <<They are supposed to be a LR four cylinder with two added cylinders.  
 Rumor has it that they take LR four cylinder engine parts.>>
 
 Or that the four cylinder engines take these six cylinder parts... is the
 glass half full today?
  >>
a story I always liked brings us to Land Rover's own six - the 2.6 litre. It
began to be known many years ago in the spoeed events that the [pistons from
the six, straight into a four increased compression ratio - therefore a good
"secret" way of a few more hp in standard classes.
So this geezer went into his Land Rover dealer and asked for four six cylinder
pistons.
"Sorry sir, we can't sell you four, they only come in sixes - or in singles"

"well give me four singles then" 

and he did.....
Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:52:15 EST
Subject: Re: life is good

In a message dated 03/11/98 19:29:13 BST, you write:

<< Still runs & Drives like a charm.
 After all this time I almost forgot just how much I love this old
 Land-Rover
 life is good again >>

easily done Steve, easily done.

Having just taken PKV off-road for the first time in seven months I was the
same, covered in mud, tired, but with a HUGE grin...

and - having nearly lost it seven months ago - yeah, ain't life grand...

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:51:57 EST
Subject: Re: Waxing Galvanizing

In a message dated 02/11/98 22:38:25 BST, you write:

<< And finally come up with $1200 to purchase the needed wax.  Sheesh,
 didn't even spend that much for my Rover. >>

hmmm, not that I've ever used the stuff but I guess that outdoes Turtle Wax by
a bit?? If this is the cost of wax thank goodness I have no use for it. What
the hell do these people think rain is FOR??
Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 17:52:09 EST
Subject: Re: BBB List/ BBB?

In a message dated 03/11/98 04:03:56 BST, you write:

<< I don't know too many BBB abbreviations... >>

beautiful bouncy b*****

(cold shower here I come)

anon

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 15:55:15 -0700
Subject: Switches and Fuse boxes

John Putnam wrote about his problems with fuse boxes.

I rewired mine (wasn't Lucas but FIAT-SPOT!!!). Whilst tracing wires ,
found 4 wires spliced into the hot switched wire , which entered fuse
box BEFORE the fuse!!

Needless to say, a lot of circuits were rewired into a Radio Shack 4
fuse fuse block!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: Jon.McDowell@gecits-ap.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:21:37 +1000
Subject: re: alloy threaded welsh plug

Allen Northwood wrote:

:Right up high on the engine block (petrol 2.25) under the manifolds are
two
:threaded alloy plugs, and one has developed a leak.
:.
:Does anyone know whether it is possible to repair the thread, or do I need
:to change the block?

:Any advice gratefully received.

Well if you really wnat ANY advice, here's mine.  I had the same problem on
my 2.25 engine.  No one could tell me what these were for [someone going to
offer the information] and I really could not get them out so..

I found epoxy putty worked into the hole and surounds works, least has so
far - my reasoniong if you're never going to need to get them out then make
sure that they never do!

Jon

GE Capital IT Solutions
This email is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient,
you must not disclose or use the information contained in it.
If you have received this mail in error, please tell us
immediately by return email and delete the document.

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From: Jon.McDowell@gecits-ap.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 10:28:19 +1000
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

Gee I don't get a chance to respond whittyly (thats my spelling of it and I
like it that way) because I only subscribe to the digest and we had the
Melbourne Cup weekend down here (we get a holiday for the Cup on Tuesday
and everybody takes the Monday off so we get a four day weekend!), so
anyway here's my whitty comeback:

Con Seitl wrote:

:    34.99..converted to Canadian is about 6,000.00 dollars these days.

that would be $12,000.00 Australian!

I think I will take Sandy's advice and visit a ships chandler if I need to
- I'll try and be gentle - not my long suit

Thanks all.

Jon

GE Capital IT Solutions
This email is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient,
you must not disclose or use the information contained in it.
If you have received this mail in error, please tell us
immediately by return email and delete the document.

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From: Allan Smith <smitha@candw.lc>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 20:52:34 -0500
Subject: Re: LRs Running Wild

At 13:47 04/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Chanced onto a great LR flick last night while watching the other tube.
>A 1995 docu/adventure movie called Running Wild.

Except for a brief glimpse of NY traffic every vehicle in the movie is an
LR - quite a record. The movie was filmed in Zambia, also as Born Wild. It
is on Lloyd's LR movie database.
Allan
Allan Smith
Caribbean Natural Resources Institute (CANARI)
Vieux Fort, St. Lucia, West Indies. Tel. + 758 454 6060  Fax. + 758 454 5188

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From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:58:52 -0500
Subject: Re: canīt change gear 

> I am in trouble again. After some gearbox work I canīt change gear. I have
> taken off the gearbox, taken off the bellhousing and changed the front
> layshaft- and primary pinion bearings. After reassembly I canīt change
> gear. With some force I can move it a little bit. The whole operation has
> been performed during three weeks and I canīt imagine things have started
> to seize. I can add that I havenīt filled the gearbox with oil yet. Does
> anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donīt tell me I
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> anyone know what could be the cause of my problem? Please donīt tell me I
> need to take off the gearbox again...

 Did you remove the synchro when you had the front open and perhaps put it
back the wrong way round? Are the two retaining plates that hold the selector
shaft seals on the wrong way round.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:37:38 EST
Subject: Re: Broken Axle removal

I think unless you see a definite twist in the axle you should be able to
trust it. I don't know the reason but in the 20 so years I've owned and driven
Land-Rovers I have never broken an axle. Am I alone in this? Maybe I just
don't use them as hard, but I have spent time working in oil fields and driven
off road as enthusiastically as anyone. I suppose this note will break the
charm. Think I'll go looking for some real wood to knock on.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Man-dik Leung" <dick@royal.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:38:50 -0500
Subject: Finding a suitable winch for disco with wrap-around brush bar

Hi folks, 

I am planning to add a winch for my 97's discovery with a
Wrap-Around Brush Bar installed.

Are there any after-market products can be installed on it without the
modification of the existing brush bar or remove the brush bar?

I live in Toronto area and hope someone may give me a thought.

TIA,
Richard

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From: john taylor <jht@easynet.on.ca>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 21:44:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken axle? ...in the middle of the night!!

Will it be daylight around April?
You could always take off the propshaft, pull both halfshafts and drive
around in front wheel drive until morning.
Re: the pairabollok springs. The original springs on my vehicle were so hard
just about anything would be better. I registered amazement when, upon
completing the job I leaned on my truck as I drank a beer and the truck
actually moved on it's springs!!!!!!!
The ride on the road is much smoother but I can't say the job is done until
I get rid of all the crashing noises. The rear body is somewhat loose I
think and I may have to replace one or more of the bushes through the
chassis. I thought they were OK. I haven't done any real offroading yet but
the few  times I have been over rough stuff it is a definate improvement. I
have no regrets so far though.
Yours jht
IIa V6 bastard

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:01:42 EST
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

In a message dated 98-11-03 17:05:17 EST, you write:

<< As in the "Little Nash Rambler" Beep Beep??? >>
No, as in the "chain gang".

Bill Lawrence
Albq, Nm

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 23:16:59 EST
Subject: Re: Bloody Knuckles Pub - badge

In a message dated 98-11-02 14:28:55 EST, you write:

 I just sent out an update to all those who expressed an interest in the
 Bloody Knuckles Pub badge that I have been working on.
  >>
Can I get a description or graphic of the badge?

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:15:52 -0700
Subject: Need a little help.

Hey everybody, I need a little help.

There is no LR content to this but it does have to do with a
4 legged rover.

The Misses and I are interested in adopting a Dalmatian that
is presently living in Phoenix.  Problem is that we live in
Denver.  This dog is currently in a shelter, and is in need
of a home.   I am asking if any of you live in the Phoenix
area, and could help with the adoption.  The drive from our
home is quite long and I am hoping someone may be able to
pick up Jari Dalmatian, and drive him towards us.  I won't
ask for more than a two hour drive but that or more would
certainly help.  Most of you know me or have seen my posts
to the list and I wouldn't ask, but I know most of you are
also friends of the Furry Rovers.  If you can help, we are
planning to do this the weekend of Nov.. 14th, and need to
let the Phoenix Dalmatian Rescue know by this Fri.  Please
e-mail me off list.  Thanks to all of you, and if you may be
in need of a certain Rover part that I have lying about I'll
gladly trade for the ride.

Hurricane Mitch and the Red Dinosaur.

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 21:32:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Need a little help.

 Hey, what does it cost to send a dog by plane from Phoenix
 to Denver... Southwest or United.... $49 one way??  Sure
 would be a lot cheaper than gas and many hours on the road.
 I'll chip in ten bucks, anyone else??

-Michael Carradine
 1950 80" Grasshopper

At 10:15 PM 11/3/98 -0700, you wrote:

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From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 04:51:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Bloody Knuckles Pub - badge
	charset="iso-8859-1"

We better try that again - the mail was so big that it would not send well.

Well, I finally got all of you onto one 'mailing'. You are getting this
because you expressed an interest in The "Bloody Knuckles Pub" grill badge.

The fellow that is doing the computer work with me and myself, are nearly
finished - I have enclosed a line drawing of the badge, minus the center
picture (which looks like it will be a frontal of a mid Series IIA Land
Rover - the most widely recognized LR). You will be able to mount the badge
to a grill, bar or front of all Land Rovers - including, someone asked - a
Disco. As I said before, this will be a numbered run. If you have questions,
email me directly.

Once again, we will have a full colour mock-up soon - I will send it to all
of you then.

I still feel that we will be able to mail this badge, including the price of
the badge, for $30 in the United States. To those of you outside the US, I
intend to seek out the postage cost AND will mail them as 'gifts' (they tend
to go though mail customs quicker and easier)

If you want to be removed from this list, or think that you received this
email in error, return main me with something saying so.............

Cheers
David
Full-time father of Alexander - 3.85 years old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home, ketch rigged
wahooadv@earthlink.net

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From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 22:50:37 -0700
Subject: RR low beams are dead

Hi all,

hey the low beams on my headlights are dead.  The high beams work fine on
both lights.  The park lights work.  All 4 fuses are fine.  The lights both
went out at the same time, so I don't think it's the bulbs that are bad
(80/120 PIAA's).

I am wondering if the switch is notorious for going sour?  I wasn't aware
that there were two different circuits in that switch, one for high and one
for low beam, or is that not the case.  I haven't torn into it yet because
it's raining, and cold outside, but I'll take a look at it tomorrow.

Anyone else experience this phoenomenon?

Thanks!

Michael Slade
Portland, Oregon
www.DreamLab.cc

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 09:26:32 +0000
Subject: Re: Waxing Galvanizing

 What
>the hell do these people think rain is FOR??
Rain is to provide water companies with a living.They get it free,then
sell it to you for a vast fortune,then when you've finished with it,
they charge you *another* vast fortune to take it away.Simple eh?
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@ti.is>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 10:14:46 +0000
Subject: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

Hi again!
Thanks for the response - I have screwed the diffrential off and found
out that the right hand (shorter) axle had broken an inch from the end -
but i managed to get it out - Now I am wondering if I have to take the
diff a part completely cause I can see small metalic grinding all over -
especially around the bearing that the axle fits into - I think you know
what I mean! - Is it enough to just take the biggest chunks out and
leave the very small stuff lying around? - will I have bearing problem
sooner than later? - or should I throw it away and get a new diff?

Sorry - I know this maybe sounds basic to some of you - Ive never done
it - and couldnt find anything usefull when searching the list on the
team.net :-)

Thanks for the help

Olafur Agust - olafura@ti.is

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From: Olafur Agust Axelsson <olafura@ti.is>
Date: Wed, 04 Nov 1998 11:20:31 +0000
Subject: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

Oops 
To get it straight - the axle snapped an inch from the end - inside the
diff - not on the outside! - so there wasnt a long way for the debris to
go on to meet the bearing!

Olafur Agust - olafura@ti.is

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 06:40:50 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

Re: Metal debris:

It isn't surprising to see this - like I said the axles very rarely shear
cleanly.

What you need to do is clean it out - personally I'd grab out the biggest to
small chunks with needlenose pliers and a dental pick, then hose out the
bearings and the like with a can or so of brake cleaner. This should flush out
most of the bits.

The very tiny stuff should be cleaned out by the washing, then squirt the
bearings with some Lubriplate (light lithium grease used for engine assembly
lubricant) or fresh 90-weight - don't want to run them dry!

If you get the bigger bits you should be fine - no nasty noises from back there
other than the CLUNK when it broke, right?

I did essentially this when I broke a half-shaft a few years ago.

                         ajr

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From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Wed, 4 Nov 1998 11:46:50 +0000
Subject: Re: Broken axle - metal debris - bearing problem !

Alan rightly says:

What you need to do is clean it out - personally I'd grab out the biggest to
small chunks with needlenose pliers and a dental pick, then hose out the
>bearings and the like with a can or so of brake cleaner. This should flush out
>most of the bits.

If,after this, you're still not happy,and have visible bits left you
could use a pot magnet to lift most of the remainder out.I did this
when my half shaft went about a year ago.Keep turning everything around
to make sure you havent got any chunks lurking out of sight.
Cheers
Mike Rooth

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