Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:04:18 -0500 
Subject: Speedo

Got a new speedo cable for my '71 lightweight sIIa, can anyone tell me where
I can find info on replacement procedure ?

             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 07:23:15 -0700
Subject: Re : Rear Chassis Handles

Hi All!!

Bill Wrote:

  >>
I certainly understand the desire to extend the range of these vehicles
or to
compensate for the lack of a fuel guage, but I have a fundamental
philsopical
problem with using the auxilliary fuel supply for a bumper. Anyone
remember
the Pinto?

Yep-and also remember the Stick NBC's "Dateline" made about side mounted
gas tanks on GM pickup trucks. So familiar as to the posistion of Land
Rover Gas Tanks!! How many Landies  have burst into flames when Hit?

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:08:37 -0600
Subject: RE: Jerry (not gerry) can holders

>Ok, Jerry then. BTW, wonder what percentage of fuel gauges on Series LR's
>actually work. Mine doesn't exist. Just a blank place where it evidently
used
>to be.

Well, mine if fried. I got it out and tested in every posible way. It never
moved. I guess it didn't like being used as a bridge for the 260W aux lights
(SPOT)!!

BTW, I broke another half shaft just today.

:-(

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:16:02 -0600
Subject: RE: Other fuel gauges...

>If you use the neg earth fuel tank sender unit & a Lucas voltage
>stabalizer you can use just about any Smiths gauge.  Just about any
>Smiths gauge will look more stock in you car than any SW, VDO or
>equivlent XYZ brand gauge.  My car has a pair of late MGB fuel gauges.

I have a doubt (well, many really). As I was working on the fuel meter this
weekend, I looked again at the speedo. What brand name are this things
supposed to be?
This one says "Jaeger", definetly british, but never heard of that name. Is
this right?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Thorsten Klein <kleit001@mail.Uni-Mainz.de>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 16:28:50 +0100
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:

> This one says "Jaeger", definetly british, but never heard of that name. Is
> this right?

Yes, in my Lightweight I have Jaeger and CAV instruments (original).

Bye, Thorsten

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:52:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Series Dictionary, etc

>Thanks for your input on the Series Dictionary. It has been thoroughly
>updated as per your suggestions and is now up to 80+ terms! Suggestions are
>still welcome of course.

Beautifully done!!

I specially liked the:
"SPOT
Describes a Stupid Previous Owner Trick. One recent example was a PO who got
power for his driving lights from the -fuel gauge-. "

I knew this was going to become a classic.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 11:01:23 -0500
Subject: brake line clamps

"Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net> wrote:

>FWIW I use the smallest Vice-Grip needle nose pliers with the
>serrations on the jaws ground off and the jaws rounded with a
>grinder. Easy one hand application.Cheers.

Even easier: buy two 2" long pieces of Schedule 40 3/8" ID iron pipe.  Slip
'em over the jaws of the needle nose Vise Grips.  Voila.  Vise grips when
you need 'em, brake clamps at other times.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Markus Korth <mkorth@systline.de>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:06:42 +0100 (MET)
Subject: RE: Series Dictionary, etc

Hi !

 > >Thanks for your input on the Series Dictionary. It has been thoroughly
 > >updated as per your suggestions and is now up to 80+ terms! Suggestions are
 > >still welcome of course.
 > 
 > I specially liked the:
 > "SPOT
 > Describes a Stupid Previous Owner Trick. One recent example was a PO who got
 > power for his driving lights from the -fuel gauge-. "

I wonder wether the brightness of the lights depends on the current
level in the gas tank:

"Boy, is it dark tonight - should stop at the next gas station..."

Ciao
 Markus

-- 
Markus Korth              |      SYSTline 
mkorth@systline.de        |      Heiden Lemmermann 
Essen/Germany             |      Systemhaus GmbH
Key fingerprint = FA 10 36 1E A1 F7 F3 02  0D A9 14 60 A8 51 E4 D3

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: M.J.Rooth@lboro.ac.uk (Mike Rooth)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 16:13:57 +0000
Subject: RE: Other fuel gauges...

>This one says "Jaeger", definetly british, but never heard of that name. Is
>this right?
Yes Luis,that's right.Used to be called British Jaeger.I had Jaeger
instruments in a 1932 MG I owned many years ago.Got absorbed by Smith's
Instruments I think,but were always fitted to "upmarket" cars at one
time,despite the fact they were probably no better (or worse) than the
standard Smith's product.

Cheers
Mike Rooth

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:17:51 -0600
Subject: RE: Series Dictionary, etc

>I wonder wether the brightness of the lights depends on the current
>level in the gas tank:
>"Boy, is it dark tonight - should stop at the next gas station..."

I would have liked it that way, some extra warning high-tech feature. It
would have given a new meaning to the term "fuel light", or "idiot light".

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 10:34:15 -0600
Subject: RE: Other fuel gauges...

Thorsten wrote:
>Yes, in my Lightweight I have Jaeger and CAV instruments (original).

And Mike Rooth wrote:

>Yes Luis,that's right.Used to be called British Jaeger.I had Jaeger
>instruments in a 1932 MG I owned many years ago.Got absorbed by Smith's
>Instruments I think,but were always fitted to "upmarket" cars at one
>time,despite the fact they were probably no better (or worse) than the
>standard Smith's product.

Thanks for the info.
I was curious because the light on the Jaeger speedo is white, and the
lights of the other gauges is green, it looked kind of diferent too, but
fitted perfectly. Now I know that if it wasn't the original speedo, at least
it came form a Landie too. (It's from the family!)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 08:47:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Rear Chassis Member Handles

Peter Hope wrote:

> Ahh I see.  Well I am going to make gaurds for the lights them selfs.

That will put your body panels at greater risk.

cheers,

Jeremy

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:52:40 -0800 
Subject: Limestone vs Sand

A picture is worth quite a few words.

My '61 SII was originally painted Sand.  I have the factory work order to
prove it!  At a later date someone resprayed most of it limestone, leaving
the interior Sand

The picture at:
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/4954/lrrearpaint.jpg

Shows the inside door jam in the original Sand colour, and much of the outer
rear body side in Limestone, (much of it already sanded off in preparation
for re-spraying.

I have since re-sprayed everything Limestone.

Paul Quin
1961 Series II 88
Victoria, BC

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 13:04:59 -0500
Subject: RE: Other fuel gauges...

<< I was curious because the light on the Jaeger speedo is white, and 
the lights of the other gauges is green,it looked kind of diferent 
too>>

 That is exactly the situation in "Dougal". A Jaeger speedo with a 
white light & the other gauge has green illumination.
 
 All part of the Land-Rover character I suppose.

 Paul

 Mon, 02 Nov 1998 17:34

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:23:27 -1000
Subject: Galvanized Care

Aloha everyone,
my 70 Rover is just started to get some red spots on some of the galvanized
body cappings.  No rust,flakes,pitting or anything.  Is there a way to stop
this short of blasting and regalvanizing?  Is there a paint type product
that can be applied over the cappings and keep them similar/same color?
Thanks
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Michael Johnson" <johnsonm@darc.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 13:53:24 -0500
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

Hi Peter, and all,
I have been keeping an eye on a piece of trim that was starting to rust,
what I did was smear anti-seize on the rusty area (FYI a little will go a
very long way).  So far it has surpassed my expectations as I applied this
"treatment" in the early spring (March-April).  The only wash it gets is
from mothernature, acid rain and all...
Michael Johnson
74 SIII 88 (Chester)
96 SI Disco (Travolta)
http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

|>Aloha everyone,
|>my 70 Rover is just started to get some red spots on some of the
galvanized
|>body cappings.  No rust,flakes,pitting or anything.  Is there a way to
stop
|>this short of blasting and regalvanizing?  Is there a paint type product
|>that can be applied over the cappings and keep them similar/same color?
|>Thanks
|>Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 08:58:31 -1000
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

>Hi Peter, and all,
>I have been keeping an eye on a piece of trim that was starting to rust,
>what I did was smear anti-seize on the rusty area (FYI a little will go a
>very long way).  So far it has surpassed my expectations as I applied this
>"treatment" in the early spring (March-April).  The only wash it gets is
>from mothernature, acid rain and all...
>Michael Johnson
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>96 SI Disco (Travolta)
>http://www.borg.com/~johnsonm

Aloha Michael,
That is a very interesting idea.  I am wondering what brand name of
anti-sieze you used.  I have a couple of tubs of the stuff made by Permatex.
My experience has been that no matter how careful I am when appling the
stuff, by the end of the job, my hands are silver.  When I start stripping
the vehicle ('this week' he says with fingers crossed) I will take one of
the peices and try your idea.
Mahalo, Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Doug Boehme <DBoehme@PA.Navisys.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 14:09:05 -0500
Subject: RE: Galvanized Care

The copper anti-sieze paste seems to last longer, the only problem is it
changes (temporarily) the color of the galvanizing because it's copper
colored.  (I got mine from RN but I'm unsure as to the brand.)

The copper anti-seize will also be helpful in that your hands won't look
silver when you're done. <grin>

Doug

Douglas J. Böhme
dboehme@pa.navisys.com

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:05:41 -1000
Subject: hammer type rivets.

Aloha again,
this kinda goes with my galvanized capping question.  The rivets that hold
on all of the cappings are not the DIY 'pop' rivet type.  I see that all of
the major parts suppliers in the US carry the proper 'hammer' type rivets.
How are you all installing these?
Is there a special hammer and dolly or just use a body beater set?  Is there
an attachment for a air hammer by chance?  Anyone made there own?
Or for simplicity sake would you just replace all the rivets with the
appropriate sized aluminum pop rivet?
Many owners ago someone replaced a few of the rivets on my project.  You can
tell which ones very easily.  The factory installed ones have nicely rounder
(domed) heads where the PP...O ones are flat toped.
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 98 11:17:36 -0800
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

>my 70 Rover is just started to get some red spots on some of the galvanized
>body cappings.  No rust,flakes,pitting or anything.  Is there a way to stop
;>this short of blasting and regalvanizing?  Is there a paint type product
;>that can be applied over the cappings and keep them similar/same color?
;>Thanks

Car wax?

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:19:38 -1000
Subject: Soft top roll bar and roof racks

Aloha
my final ? of the day.
My S-IIa 88 has a full canvas tilt.  I would like to increase the carrying
capacity of the vehicle and thought that a roof rack would be a great idea.
I also want to install a 6-point roll cage (rolled a vehicle 12 years ago
and do not want to go there again) I have been looking through issues of LRW
& LROI as well as US offroad mags getting ideas for what I want to build.
I am currently thinking of an external cage (similar to the NAS 110) with
rack attached to this.  I have also seen some interesting setups where
instead of the cage legs passing through the fenders, the cage is 100%
external and the bottoms of the legs are attached to sturdy rock sliders.  I
have also seen a couple with horizontal bars extending back from the front
bull bar to the leading legs of the cage.
I am thinking that if I go internal, how to attach the roof rack with out
poking holes in the tilt.
I would love to hear from others who have already surmounted this problem
(with pics if possible) as well as the thoughts/plans of others who are
thinking about it.
Also, have any of you installed a rack that goes on the rear of the vehicle?
Have seen similar items on a number of CJ's pictured at Moab.
Finally, I am going to need to replace my front springs which were damaged
in the accident.  The vehicle has a Koenig PTO on the front (260+ lbs) plus
the added weight of the cage and bullbar.  Should I go with the HD version
of the springs or keep the stock ones (smoother ride?)?  And should I also
think about replacing the rear springs?  Nothing physically wrong with them,
just wondering about the extra weight.
Mahalo again
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Sun, 1 Nov 1998 18:31:43 -0800
Subject: Bloody Knuckles Pub - badge

I just sent out an update to all those who expressed an interest in the
Bloody Knuckles Pub badge that I have been working on.

If you were interested in ordering one (i.e. you sent me an e-mail already)
and did not receive the update, e-mail me off list and I will send it to
you.

If there is anyone else who is truly interested in a grill badge, get in
contact with me. The badge will be $30 (mailed, I hope), of traditional
design, three colour + the polished chrome. They are well made and will be a
one time numbered run.

I said that I would get them made if I had at least 30 orders - I have
nearly 100 - so they will be real. I am not making money on them - although
I wish I could say that my intent was altruistic - I am doing this because I
believe that it will be a unique badge for the Land Rover crowd (and I have
no grill badge that is singularly LR).................also, I am getting
#01.

With space left for only two more badges on my grill........the 'Bloody
Knuckles Pub' and the PCRC...........my grill will be full (8 badges) - and
I still get enough air through to cool it in 110 degrees. Great radiators on
the LR.
:-)

Cheers
David
Full-time father of Alexander - 3.85 years old
1970 Land Rover IIA, 88" - "BEAN TOAD"
S/V KALAKALA  - our home, ketch rigged
wahooadv@earthlink.net

end of message

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:27:27 -1000
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

>Car wax?

Doahhh.  Did not even cross my mind.
Pete
ps. but I thought that membership on this list prevented ownership of auto
wax? haha

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:39:17 -0800 
Subject:  Galvanized Care - Wax

I found a web site with just the wax for your tremclad painted Rovers!

http://www.zymol.com/vintage.htm

20 oz solid crystal container.  CHECK OUT THE PRICE.  

Instructions say to apply it with your fingers.

Man, what some people won't do for their cars...

Emoticon note, the general tone of this message is very heavy in good
humoured sarcasm... ;-)

Paul in Victoria.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jpslotus27@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 14:41:04 EST
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

     Spray it with home-made waxoil.  Looks like crap / smells even worse, but
it will not subject you to abuse should someone in the pub finds out about it
(as would be the case with car wax).
     I sprayed my underside this past weekend in preparation for winter in
salt country.  messy messy messy, but I enjoy that kind of thing (hence, the
Rover in the driveway)

Enzo (back from vacation)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 15:34:01 EST
Subject: lists

In a message dated 01/11/98 18:19:11 BST, you write:

<< I'm going to move our thread over to the world wide LR mail list.  >>

what list is this please??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 15:34:15 EST
Subject: Re: Jerry (not gerry) can holders

In a message dated 01/11/98 19:53:01 BST, you write:

<< > (my fuel guage doesn't work,
 > so I always keep a full can) 
 So I'm not the only one... =:)
  >>
experience has shown that even when they do "work" it is a good idea to always
keep a full can with us.
now what company is it that makes the guages?? (dons nomex underwear and
stands well back!!)

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 15:34:23 EST
Subject: problems subscribing from another ISP

Hi all,
 espec Pete and John who answered.

Agreed, I should have given more details:

I am sending to: Majordomo@playground.sun.com the single line

subscribe lro

I am receiving back:

>>>> This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
**** Command 'this' not recognized.
>>>> ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE064B.C35CB820

END OF COMMANDS
**** Help for Majordomo:

This is Brent Chapman's "Majordomo" mailing list manager, version 1.93. 

In the description below items contained in []'s are optional. When
providing the item, do not include the []'s around it.

It understands the following commands:

    subscribe <list> [<address>] <<<

plus the rest of the usual help stuff.

anyone got any bright ideas, or am I stuck with AOL simply to stay on the
list??

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 13:50:57 -0700
Subject: RE: Fuel Gauges

Hi all!

The question of the day seems to be fuel gauges and does yours work?

Mine does, except the reading is not linear seems to drop faster at the
top half than the bottom half!!

Also with the dust on the inside of the glass over it, is almost
impossible to read with the light shining on the dust.

One more thing to tear apart and clean one of these days!!

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 14:55:00 -0600
Subject: RE: problems subscribing from another ISP

>I am receiving back:
>**** Command 'this' not recognized.
>>>>> ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE064B.C35CB820
>END OF COMMANDS
>**** Help for Majordomo:

Frank,
Have you tried to send yourself a message using this new account and
checking it out?
It seems to be that your new service is adding some extra text there in your
messages, since the first word that the Major finds is 'this' and logically
it says is does not recognizes the command.
If there is no weird text in your messages then maybe you can try
subscribing the address from somewhere else. This used to be possible but it
required Bill's authorization to take effect, if my memory serves me right.
I don't know if it is still possible.
Check your messages for extra text first.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 13:00:48 -0800 
Subject: Waxing Galvanizing 

Hmm,  tried to send this once with no luck.  Sorry if you get it twice...

I found a web site with just the wax for your galvanized trim.

http://www.zymol.com/vintage.htm

20 oz solid crystal container.  CHECK OUT THE PRICE.  

Instructions say to apply it with your fingers.

Man, what some people won't do for their cars...

Emoticon note, the general tone of this message is very heavy in good
humoured sarcasm... ;-)

Paul in Victoria.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 98 13:01:15 -0800
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

>>Car wax?
;
;>Doahhh.  Did not even cross my mind.
;>Pete
;>ps. but I thought that membership on this list prevented ownership of 
auto
;>wax? haha

Wax can protect against salt air.  I live on the coast.  I suspect you 
are probably near it as well.

There are those who seem to have religious biases against waxing a series 
rig.  I waxed The Green Rover just before the Palo Alto All British field 
meet last September and won people's choice British utility vehicle.

I had the Rover painted British Racing Green Aug '97.  Since then it has 
been washed by rain. hail, snow, streams and rivers.  It has been wiped 
down with brush and received several mud packs to enhance her skin 
conditioning.  But early last September she got washed with real soap and 
water and waxed with real car wax for the fist time since the year old 
paint job.  The car looked so good I thought I might make soap and wax a 
quarterly excersize.

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 98 13:09:18 -0800
Subject: Re: lists

><< I'm going to move our thread over to the world wide LR mail list.  >>
>what list is this please??
;
Umm the one you just posted to.  The original thread concerning Santanna 
6 cylinder engines started on the Dormobile mail list.  Since these 
engines offered something that LR engines did not and they fit into the 
LR six cylinder bay I thought that a discussion of these engines would be 
of general interest.  I also thought that there might be some Santanna 
experts out there who could tell us more about these engines.

Know anything about Santanna 6 cylinder petrol and diesel engines??

Take care

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: ggg@mediaone.net (Gerald)
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 21:30:42 GMT
Subject: Re: Soft top roll bar and roof racks

http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pdpr/lrover.htm has some roll cages. I
wish the pictures in their brochure showed them on a series vehicle.
I may just have to imitate what someone else does when we get to that
part of the restoration. I wonder if you can make one that still lets
you lower the windshield and collect bugs in your teeth.

I guess a roll bar would just go over the rear bulkhead and become
part of the support for the soft top.

On Mon, 2 Nov 1998 09:19:38 -1000, you wrote:

. . . .
>I would love to hear from others who have already surmounted this problem
>(with pics if possible) as well as the thoughts/plans of others who are
>thinking about it.
. . . .

--
Gerald
ggg@mediaone.net

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:26:05 -1000
Subject: Re: problems subscribing from another ISP

>Hi all,
> espec Pete and John who answered.
>Agreed, I should have given more details:
>I am sending to: Majordomo@playground.sun.com the single line
>subscribe lro

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
>I am receiving back:
>**** Command 'this' not recognized.

>Hi all,

Not sure if it matters but I send just "subscribe" to:
majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 11:30:42 -1000
Subject: Re: Waxing Galvanizing 

>I found a web site with just the wax for your galvanized trim.
>http://www.zymol.com/vintage.htm
>20 oz solid crystal container.  CHECK OUT THE PRICE.

Hmm, checked out the url.  Seems that prior experience with the brand is
required.  So first I must purchase a seperate product fromt the company
(whether needed or not).  Find someone to 'teach' me how to apply wax by
hand.  And finally come up with $1200 to purchase the needed wax.  Sheesh,
didn't even spend that much for my Rover.
Aloha
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Steve Fullwood <ansdf@TTACS.TTU.EDU>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 16:09:10 -0600
Subject: Ziebart?

Hi,
	On the thread of underbody protectant.  Has anybody ever checked out 
this
stuff.  I ran into a vendor at a local car show he said it will reduce
noise by 11db.  He quoted $199 for the whole undercarriage excluding moving
parts.  Also he said it is guaranteed.  You can renew it every year for
$34.95.  Now this sounds like a good deal to me but I am pretty uninformed.  
	Would there be disadvantages to spraying the bottom of the bed and under
the seat box etc.  I would appreciate any opinions on this stuff.
Steven Fullwood

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 16:15:22 -0600
Subject: RE: Ziebart?

>Now this sounds like a good deal to me but I am pretty uninformed.
> Would there be disadvantages to spraying the bottom of the bed and under
>the seat box etc.  I would appreciate any opinions on this stuff.
>Steven Fullwood

They are not new on the market. I remember them since I have memory. They
offer direrent kinds of treatments to prevent rust, even spraying their
stuff on the inside of all major body panels, which is not a big deal on a
LR, but on any modern days car this is kind of complicated without
dissasambling the car. They guarantee their work, and after years and years
if they are still in the market there's got to be a reason. Generally
comments are very good on them. I had the idea they were more expensive,
though.
And about the sound deadening condition, I have no idea, never knew of it,
side efect?
Their main purpose is to prevent rust.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:31:13 EST
Subject: Re:  Electric cooling fans

Winn,
I had a flex-a-lite fan on my SIIA.  Sounded like an airplane.  Not sure if
they're all that noisy, but ask anyone who was at the OVLR B-Day party this
summer and they'll confirm the thing was LOUD.

It was a pusher, my engine ran hot driving across states in the summer heat,
so I got a Perm-a-Cool puller fan, rated at 2850 cfm or something and it's
way, way quieter--can't tell it's on unless the engine is off.  Still ran hot,
though.  Just put on a SII rad. last weekend and seem to have problem solved.
Was running a 3-tube SIII rad.

Bill
Columbus GA

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:31:06 EST
Subject: Ed wants a fuel guage

Ed,
Mine's not operating, as there's no sending unit on my tank, just a blanked-
off hole (SCOT--stupid current owner trick) where the sending unit that never
worked didn't fit on this tank so I just pitched it.

But you can't have my guage.  It entertains my passengers when I look at my
(currently working) odometer and declare that I need gas and they see the
guage reads full, or better yet, when they notice of their own accord that we
seem to be out of fuel and I knock on the guage and it springs up to the "F".

Bill

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:31:18 EST
Subject: Jerry can as bumper

That's why I drive a 109--figure there's enough space between me and the bomb
strapped to the back of my car.  Plus, the person who hits me while certainly
get worse than he gives.

Bill "safety man" Rice

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 16:55:12 -0600
Subject: RE: Ed wants a fuel guage

> they notice of their own accord that we
>seem to be out of fuel and I knock on the guage and it springs up to the
"F".

What is it Bill, you have a "Magic Touch"?

On a related subject, I read on the newspaper that we are going to have
4,33% decrese on the fuel price, maybe next week.
This are really not good news. Last time it happened they reduced it by
approx. 3% and the next month they pumped it up 25%. They make you think it
"fluctuates" when it really just climbs up.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:04:34 EST
Subject: Re:  lists

In a message dated 11/2/98 4:37:00 PM, you wrote:

<<<< I'm going to move our thread over to the world wide LR mail list.  >>

<<what list is this please??>>

This one, I think...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 17:11:47 -0600
Subject: RE: lists

>In a message dated 11/2/98 4:37:00 PM, you wrote:
><<<< I'm going to move our thread over to the world wide LR mail list.  >>
><<what list is this please??>>

Sorry Pat, what did you say?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:16:25 EST
Subject: Re:  Soft top roll bar and roof racks

Pete,
I think you should go w/ an internal roll bar, just b/c you can still put a
hard top on if you ever feel like it.

You can use an internal roll bar and a roof rack like I saw on a guy's j**p.
He owns a company that fabricates neat stuff, and if I come up w/ some cash,
I'm gonna have him make some nifty rock sliders for Mrs. Merdle.

His roof rack had two big (3/4" or 1" square) rear supports that ran from the
back of the rack down to hinges mounted on the rear crossmember.  At the
front, the rack was held on by brackets mounted to the windscreen or bulkhead
(don't remember which) and secured w/ pins.   

This way he could run hard or soft tops or no top--rollbar on j**p obviously
internal.  He just removes those front pins and can flip the whole rack back,
pivoting it on those hinges on the rear Xmember.

Bill

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Chris Weinbeck, Office Logic, Inc." <cmw@tiac.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:29:36 -0500
Subject: Window tracks

Hello All.

Funny, I was just thinking about window tracks and getting some of mine 
replaced.  I'm not keeping up well on the list, but catching up from time 
to time.

I found cheap window track in the McMaster-Carr catalog part number 1717A1 
for plastic 4" long at about $5.  They have 6' for about $7 (price is top 
and bottom pairs of track) They sell aluminum track too, but I wouldn't 
suggest using it for bare glass.

The fact that I could go into the backroom at my office and look at the 
track I bought...well a while ago tells you about my recent Rover progress.

Chris

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:28:03 EST
Subject: Re:  RE: lists

That would be this list. The world-wide, universal, one or whatever...

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: John <john109@geocities.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 15:42:34 -0800
Subject: "anti-scuffing" paste on overdrives...

Okay Folks,

So there is this special anti-scuffing paste that comes with a new overdrive.
What if you got a used one and want to get some more of this stuff?

Anybody know what this stuff really is?

I was figuring to just use some anti-seize paste?

John

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jim Fraser <fraserj@webhart.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 18:55:43 -0500
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

At 08:23 AM 11/2/98 -1000, you wrote:
>Aloha everyone,
>my 70 Rover is just started to get some red spots on some of the galvanized
>body cappings.  No rust,flakes,pitting or anything.  Is there a way to stop
>this short of blasting and regalvanizing?  Is there a paint type product
>that can be applied over the cappings and keep them similar/same color?
>Thanks
>Pete

FWIW Pete, McMaster-Carr Supply sells something called 'Galvanizing Metal
Coating' that comes in quart, gallon or 16 oz spray cans.  The blurb says
it "prevents rust and corrosion as well as hot-dip galvanizing".  Who
knows?  Anyway, the quart is $22.92 , pn 7725T2, and the 16oz spray is
$6.35, pn 7725T3.  The stuff is 93% zinc.  It may be good for touchups and
it match up well with your present coating.  This place is in Chicago,
their number is (708) 833-0300.  

Ask for a catalog, 2600 pages of everything.  We order stuff from them at
work sometimes, good supplier.

Jim Fraser
'53 80"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Jim Fraser <fraserj@webhart.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 19:04:31 -0500
Subject: Re: hammer type rivets.

At 09:05 AM 11/2/98 -1000, you wrote:
>Aloha again,
>this kinda goes with my galvanized capping question.  The rivets that hold
>on all of the cappings are not the DIY 'pop' rivet type.  I see that all of
>the major parts suppliers in the US carry the proper 'hammer' type rivets.
>How are you all installing these?
>Is there a special hammer and dolly or just use a body beater set?  Is there
>an attachment for a air hammer by chance?  Anyone made there own?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 15 lines)]
>(domed) heads where the PP...O ones are flat toped.
>Pete
Hi again Pete,

I asked one of the local snowmobile racers how they peened over the hammer
rivets and this is what he said;. Modify an air chisel tip by machining out
the tip of a chisel to a concave shape and while holding the original
rounded end of the rivet in place with a 'dolly' or block of steel, which
also has the concave recess,  air hammer the rivet into place.  He said
this works like a charm.  

Jim Fraser
'53 80"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 17:30:17 -0700
Subject: Re: fuel gauges

Joseph,

You might check to see that your float doesn't have a wee bit o' fuel in it.

John Wood

Joseph Broach wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 98 16:32:15 -0800
Subject: Santanna 6 cyl engines

Anyone know anything about them??

They are supposed to be a LR four cylinder with two added cylinders.  
Rumor has it that they take LR four cylinder engine parts.

Anyone know anything about them who hasn't already chatted about them on 
the Dormobile list???

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

"How can life grant us the boon of living..unless we dare"
Amelia Earhart 1898-1937

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 17:42:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Bloody Knuckles Pub - badge

David,

I'm another interested party. i'd like to get a feel for awhat the artwork will
look like. Any Photos/drawings?

Also, how do I get the money, etc to you!?

K. John Wood
Solihull Soceity-Pres.

David and Cynthia Walker wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 19:43:50 EST
Subject: Re:  Santanna 6 cyl engines

In a message dated 11/2/98 8:34:43 PM, you wrote:

<<Anyone know anything about them??>>

Jeff Berg has *30%* more power... oh wait, his is a *4 cylinder*. 

(+30% of 6 hp is still only *2  more* hp) <grins>  ;-)

<<They are supposed to be a LR four cylinder with two added cylinders.  
Rumor has it that they take LR four cylinder engine parts.>>

Or that the four cylinder engines take these six cylinder parts... is the
glass half full today?

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: multipart/alternative; ]
From: "=?iso-8859-1?B?aPNsbWZy7fB1cg==?=" <holmfrk@hi.is>
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 01:12:01 -0000
Subject: Broken axle? ...in the middle of the night!!
	charset="iso-8859-1"

Hi!
Long time since I needed your help - this is the first brake down of my =
=B466 Landy that has gotten me a bit worried - the thing is that I was =
accelerating on a green light when something snapped - and my first =
thought was that the gearbox had died on me - I stopped and looked under =
it and the rear propshaft was turning so I soon discovered that the =
gearbox wasnt it - when I put into four wheel drive the Landy took of - =
so I am pretty sure that one of the two axle shafts have broken - It =
only happened an hour ago - and it is the middle of the night so I =
havent had time to look into it...bla bla
Ok finally - this isnt such a big-a-deal right? - except how do I get =
the broken end out of the axle housing without dismantling the whole =
thing? - please tell me there is a way... Its cold these days here in =
Iceland  ...and I dont have a garage!

thanks

Olafur Agust - olafura@ti.is

------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE06C6.F668B0E0
	[ Original post was HTML ]
[digester: Removing section of:  Content-Type: text/html; ]

	[Attachment  removed, was 47 lines.]	

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Bruce" <daviscar@concentric.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 19:26:43 -0600
Subject: Series Parts Wanted

Hi All 

I am looking for a "set" of interior panels for the front doors of a SII
88. They do not have to be in great shape just useable. 

Bruce Davis
Chicago

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:04:19 EST
Subject: Re: hammer type rivets.

Peter, for your round headed rivets you'd best find a friend who works in
aviation mechanics.  he'll be able to set you up with a rivet set, and
appropriate bucking bars and the air rivet hammer.  The system works like
this.  You insert a rivet of the appropriate size (cut by rivet cutter or
ordered by grip length) into tghe holes in the plates to be riveted together.
Holding the bucking bar along the edge of the hole (backside) but not on the
rivet, you align the rivet set concavity of which matches the head of the
rivet as you would wish it to look , then you tease the throttle of the air
hammer for a few blows which will set the rivet into the hole and set the head
as flush as it is going to get.  If the status so far is green, and the
visible side looks good, you continue by relocating the bucking bar to the
other end of the rivet and "upset" the rivet.  The term means you whack on the
head of the rivet and the transmitted force causes your hand and the bucking
bar to slam back and forth and the rivet will actually grow wider before your
eyes.  This is a skilled trade, and becomes easier with practice and after
this is the easiest part.  Some other tools which will help are Clecos and
Cleco Pliers, which act as temporary assembly rivets.  Anyone who has the
rivet sets to lend will have the clecos as well.  These tools are not
expensive, but by the time you buy all of them together you'll see the better
side of $500.  

Zack Arbios
who used to have to do this for amphibian aircraft, take that maurice.
yes, zinch chromate paste, tape and paint. the whole enchilada.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:04:55 EST
Subject: Re: Other fuel gauges...

In a message dated 98-11-02 10:23:48 EST, you write:

 I have a doubt (well, many really). As I was working on the fuel meter this
 weekend, I looked again at the speedo. What brand name are this things
 supposed to be?
 This one says "Jaeger", definetly british, but never heard of that name. Is
 this right?
 
  >>
I think Jaeger was an alternate brand name owned by Smiths. Kind of like Sieko
and Pulsar or Bulova and Caravelle. The Jaeger guages seem to show up in the
higher priced cars such as Jaguar. maybe one of our experts can explain all of
this.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: pete.c88@juno.com (peter j cosmides)
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:01:58 +0000
Subject: Swivel pin bearings??

Greetings,
I am a new lister and thought I would tap into this vast knowledge
bank??!!!   I am getting some strange noises coming from the front end of
my Series 3...very inconsistant, knocks, grinding etc.  (freewheel hubs
by the way, so I have isolated the diff. etc etc) But I have made all the
obvious exterior checks and all seems fine.  Pulled the brake drums, all
is new and fine there too....no obvious wheel bearing play, but all
indications seem that a bad bearing might be at fault somewhere,  It also
has become increasingly more difficult to steer. (very heavy, should I
say heavier than normal!!)
I was wondering what symptoms would show if the top and/or bottom swivel
bearings were bad.  
I was about to change wheel bearings, but seem to think the heavy
steering is a clue to something else.
Any help would be great..

Thanks
Peter Cosmides     Moorestown, NJ
1973 Land Rover 88" SW
1988 Range Rover
1975 MGB....original owner
1966 MG 1100  Sportsedan

You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Scheidt <david@infocom.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:34:23 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Broken axle? ...in the middle of the night!!

On Tue, 3 Nov 1998, [iso-8859-1] hólmfríður wrote:

:only happened an hour ago - and it is the middle of the night so I =
:havent had time to look into it...bla bla
:Ok finally - this isnt such a big-a-deal right? - except how do I get =
:the broken end out of the axle housing without dismantling the whole =
:thing? - please tell me there is a way... Its cold these days here in =
:Iceland  ...and I dont have a garage!

You might be able to get the broken bit out with out pulling the diff, but
I would recomend against trying.  If there are nasty little bits in there,
you will eventually get one stuck betweeen the teeth, and break one.
Pulling the diff isn't that hard, though in the Icelandic winter, I am
sure it is no fun.  Perhaps you can convince a garage to let you use one
of their bays for a bit?  If they aren't using it, for a little dosh, they
might let you.  If you have all the parts you need, it shouldn't take much
over an hour to pull the half shafts, drop the diff, get the broken bit
out, offer the diff back up to the axle, and put new shafts in.

David.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 18:40:35 -0800
Subject: RE: problems subscribing from another ISP

I believe something else maybe getting tacked on and there is a
command for the Major like "end"

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

 >
 >  Hi all,
 >   espec Pete and John who answered.
 >
 >  Agreed, I should have given more details:
 >
 >  I am sending to: Majordomo@playground.sun.com the single line
 >
 >  subscribe lro
 >
 >  I am receiving back:
 >
 >  **** Command 'this' not recognized.
 >  >>>> ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE064B.C35CB820
 >
 >  END OF COMMANDS
 >  **** Help for Majordomo:
 >
 >  This is Brent Chapman's "Majordomo" mailing list manager,
 >  version 1.93.
 >
 >  In the description below items contained in []'s are
 >  optional. When
 >  providing the item, do not include the []'s around it.
 >
 >  It understands the following commands:
 >
 >      subscribe <list> [<address>] <<<
 >
 >  plus the rest of the usual help stuff.
 >
 >  anyone got any bright ideas, or am I stuck with AOL
 >  simply to stay on the
 >  list??
 >
 >  Best Cheers
 >
 >  Frank
 >               +--+--+--+
 >              I !__|  [_]|_\___
 >              I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
 >              "(o)======(o)"
 >

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:50:57 EST
Subject: Re:  BBB List

In a message dated 11/2/98 9:16:38 PM, you wrote:

<<I either didn't get the message or deleted it by accident. I'm here in
Towson, MD with lots of tools and lots of scars from my 1969 Series IIa 88"
I also have (my son has) a 1971 Series III that we are rebuilding. No
garage, but coffee, beer, etc.

Chris Stevens>>

That makes the 2nd note I got about the BB list...  I am not the keeper of the
list. It is Thorsten in Germany who y'all should be sending your info to...

.02

--pat

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "d.h.lowe" <dhlowe@idirect.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 10:00:48 -0500
Subject: Re: Rover coverage in a USA mag

John.    Have you fitted your springs yet . The world is waiting for  test
report.

john taylor wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 21:57:16 EST
Subject: Re: hammer type rivets, bucks & clecos

In a message dated 11/2/98 10:05:58 PM, you wrote:

<<who used to have to do this for amphibian aircraft, take that maurice.
yes, zinch chromate paste, tape and paint. the whole enchilada.>>

Speaking of; I saw the Johnson Wax hand built replica Sikorsky flying boat
(going from Wisconsin to Brazil) doing touch-n-goes here in Miami. I ran down
to the water to take a pic and slipped on a mossy rock. Landed on the Leica.
Damn. 

It was an incredible sight and I'm happy to have seen it.

Well equipped Land Rover (content) had a first aid kit in the back.

--pat.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:02:01 EST
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

In a message dated 11/2/98 4:57:40 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
fraserj@webhart.net writes:

<< This place is in Chicago,
 their number is (708) 833-0300.   >>

They're on-line at www.mcmaster.com

Cheers, 
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:02:01 EST
Subject: Re:  BBB List/ BBB?

Oh yeah, it is the **BB** list, as in Ball Bearings, Big B**bs, B**m-B**m,
etc. I don't know too many BBB abbreviations... ;-)

--pat.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:12:20 EST
Subject: Re: problems subscribing from another ISP

In a message dated 11/2/98 7:41:15 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
kirkwood@garlic.com writes:

<  I am sending to: Majordomo@playground.sun.com the single line >

>From the instructions:

Tell your friends SUBSCRIBE send a message to:	MajorDomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net
with the text:					subscribe lro

You're sending to the incorrect address ...... it works, I just tried it.

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:18:48 EST
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

In a message dated 98-11-02 14:06:15 EST, you write:

<< My experience has been that no matter how careful I am when appling the
 stuff, by the end of the job, my hands are silver. >>

Ah yes, Anti-sieze. The miracle mystery material. Only break the seal on the
tube, put the cap back on, place it alone in a drawer and within 24 hours you
will have traces of it all over you clothes, your garage, and most importantly
your vehicle. It might at least be doing something useful.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, Nm

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:29:47 EST
Subject: Transfer Box Trivia (at least to me)

Hi All,

Just learned something new...
The SIIa transfer box from suffix B gear boxes have a unique intermediate gear
and low range gear.  It seems to be the same ratio as the early IIa box but
takes the larger (later style) intermediate shaft.  The suffix B gearboxes can
be found in as late of IIa as a 1970 IIa (ie my parts IIa).  If you put a
suffix B intermediate gear cluster in a Suffix C IIa box or III box, the low
range gears will not engage.  

Nate 
(Now with low range)

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:45:21 EST
Subject: Re: hammer type rivets.

In a message dated 98-11-02 14:13:15 EST, you write:

 Aloha again,
 this kinda goes with my galvanized capping question.  The rivets that hold
 on all of the cappings are not the DIY 'pop' rivet type.  I see that all of
 the major parts suppliers in the US carry the proper 'hammer' type rivets.
 How are you all installing these?
 Is there a special hammer and dolly or just use a body beater set?  Is there
 an attachment for a air hammer by chance?  Anyone made there own?
 Or for simplicity sake would you just replace all the rivets with the
 appropriate sized aluminum pop rivet?
 Many owners ago someone replaced a few of the rivets on my project.  You can
 tell which ones very easily.  The factory installed ones have nicely rounder
 (domed) heads where the PP...O ones are flat toped.
 Pete >>

Now this is a good question, and one I'd like to see the answer to. I too have
been looking for the proper rivets because I need to remove and replace some
capping myself. The rivets on the body seem to be of an aircraft type but are
different from those supplied for that purpose in this country. The squeezed
rivets have a hemispherical head while domestic types are much flatter or
"pan" style. The pop-rivets used seem to be aluminum but are a lot stronger
than those you can buy at Home Base. When the rivets on my bonnet spare tire
carrier let loose I replaced them with some stainless steel ones I scammed
from an old Air Force veteran (I mean Guadelcanal old) who works in the
office. They do the job but they do not look the same as the originals. I
wonder if there is a source, import or domesti,c for the correct rivets and
installation tools. 

As far as installing the rivets you need a snap and a bucking bar. The snap is
the same shape as the rivet head and is placed over the head. Then the bucking
bar is placed to support the straight end of the rivet and the snap is struck
several times with a heavy hammer. The idea is to force the rivet to expand in
the holes and take up all of the free space therein.  The pop rivets used in
aircraft are installed much the same way as the hardware store variety but are
a lot stronger and require a special installation puller.

The same gentleman has an instruction book for installing and inspecting
rivets that he got after the war when he was maintaining F-86s. Interesting
reading. guess I may have to borrow it again.

Bill Lawrence
Albq,NM 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:52:16 EST
Subject: Re: Soft top roll bar and roof racks

In a message dated 98-11-02 14:27:13 EST, you write:

<< Also, have any of you installed a rack that goes on the rear of the
vehicle?
 Have seen similar items on a number of CJ's pictured at Moab. >>
Ive seen a few, I think they call them bustle racks. They are popular on
JJ...JJ...JJJ...Brand X vehicles because they have absolutely NO load capacity
inside. seems like it would really screw up your load distribution.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 23:05:56 -0500
Subject: Re: problems subscribing from another ISP

A friend has been trying to subscribe to the list for a week or so now with no
luck. I told him to send a message to majordomo@Land-Rover.Team.Net saying
subscribe lro-digest . He is getting the same message as Frank. I tried it
several times and it worked fine for me.

Brett

GElam30092@aol.com wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 23:07:37 EST
Subject: Re: problems subscribing from another ISP

In a message dated 98-11-02 15:36:41 EST, you write:

 I am sending to: Majordomo@playground.sun.com the single line
  >>

It's all confusing to me but when I subscribed it was to Majordomo@Land-
Rover.team.net.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 23:25:40 -0000
Subject: RE: Broken axle? ...in the middle of the night!!

> Perhaps you can convince a garage to let you use one
> of their bays for a bit? it shouldn't take much
> over an hour to pull the half shafts, drop the diff, get the broken bit
> out, offer the diff back up to the axle, and put new shafts in.

If it's that cold, I'd even offer them some money for it... or at
least a beer or two =:)

-Scott

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 21:16:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Broken axle? ...in the middle of the night!!

Olafur,

Sorry to tell you, but you will need to pull the whole thing out. However, to
confirm that it is your axel, start by pulling the drive shaft off and open
the diff. If the axle is broken you will know. If it is the "third member"
(ring and pinion) you will not need to pull the wheels and axle shafts.

Good Luck

K. John Wood
Solihull Society President

hólmfríður wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 21:20:43 -0700
Subject: Taking a Run to Moab...Any Takers

Dera All,

Myself and Camel Trophy Alternate, Matt Tanner are going to take a run
out to Moab, UT this weekend (NOv. 6-7). We will do any trail you like
on Fri. On Sat. we will tackle "Moab Rim".

If you are interested reply by email or give me a call. 303/774-9225

Yours'

K. John Wood
Solihull Society President

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 23:33:11 EST
Subject: Re: Jerry can as bumper

I would think it would keep the tailgaters off you butt, at least the ones
that are awake.

Bill

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 00:12:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken axle? ...in the middle of the night!!

Your going to have to pull your diff. to get the broken bits out, it's really
the only way. Dress warm or try to find a garge somewhere.

This brings back fond memories. Laying on the ground under the truck one
January morning, minus 20 deg. C, trying to get the 90 wt. to drain out of the
axle after busting a half shaft. That was some cold. Stupid wrench slipped off
one of the diff. bolts and hit my in the head. Didn't even start to bleed till
I finally went inside an hour later.

hólmfríður wrote:
(snip)
Ok finally - this isnt such a big-a-deal right? - except how do I get =
the broken end out of the axle housing without dismantling the whole =
thing? - please tell me there is a way... Its cold these days here in =
Iceland  ...and I dont have a garage!

thanks

Olafur Agust - olafura@ti.is

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Brian G. Holmes" <b-sholmes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Mon, 2 Nov 1998 22:32:29 -0800
Subject: Re: Galvanized Care

I use it on just about everything.  I think its the best thing since sliced
bread!
Cheers,
Brian( silver fingers)

----------
> From: DNDANGER@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Galvanized Care
> Date: Monday, November 02, 1998 7:18 PM
> In a message dated 98-11-02 14:06:15 EST, you write:
> << My experience has been that no matter how careful I am when appling

the
>  stuff, by the end of the job, my hands are silver. >>
> Ah yes, Anti-sieze. The miracle mystery material. Only break the seal on
> Subject: Re: Galvanized Care
the
> tube, put the cap back on, place it alone in a drawer and within 24 hours
you
> will have traces of it all over you clothes, your garage, and most
importantly

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 01:56:23 EST
Subject: Re: Taking a Run to Moab...Any Takers

John, that sure sounds like a lot of fun. I'd go in a minute but my uncle
(Sam) wants me to do some work for him this weekend. Let us know next time.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Don <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 23:02:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Broken Axle removal

OK, my LRs are recent acquisitions and I have yet to pull apart the
diff. Not on LRs but on North Amer. P/U trucks and heavy trucks I have
removed broken axles by pulling both axles and pushing the broken stub
out with a broomstick or long dowel. These axles had no snap ring or
internal securing device. Is this not possible in a Landy?

-- 
Cheers,
Don Fee  

1968 series IIA 88"  (our DandY Landy)
1967 series IIA 109" s/w Safari

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 02:20:14 EST
Subject: Re: Broken Axle removal

In a message dated 98-11-03 02:04:32 EST, you write:

<< These axles had no snap ring or
 internal securing device. Is this not possible in a Landy?
  >>
Sounds like it might be possible although it might also be possible to drop
the stub end into the bottom of the housing in which case the diff has to come
out. I've heard of people doing it with a magnet which might make it a little
easier. As far as loose pieces in the diff you should be able to see how much
of the axle is still in the casing when you compare the new axle with the two
pieces of the old. If it is only some filings you should be ok if you just
change the oil. Most older diffs have a certain amount of metallic debris
floating around in them anyway. If in doubt put in a magnetic drain plug. That
will help pull the most destructive particles out.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Ketil Oftedahl <ketil.oftedahl@datapoint.no>
Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 09:41:45 +0100
Subject: Re: problems subscribing from another ISP

Frank,

The problem is most likely caused by your mail program sending the
message as a multipart MIME message.  Some mailers send messages as
'multipart/alternative' containing one plain text version and one
HTML-formatted version (usually this is configurable).  As the major
(and the list) prefers plain text, you should configure your mailer to
send just that.

> I am receiving back:
> **** Command 'this' not recognized.
> >>>> ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE064B.C35CB820
> END OF COMMANDS

A multipart MIME message usually have the text 'This is a multi-part
message in MIME format' inserted between the header and the first MIME
body part. 

As the major does not understand MIME, he incorrectly interprets this
line as the fist line of the message text and then reports that 'This'
is not a valid command.

Regards,
Ketil

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Tue, 3 Nov 1998 06:44:22 -0500
Subject: Re: Broken Axle removal

Re: Axle removal:

Yes, it's possible, but when LR axles break they oftentimes leave largish
chunkies behind - they don't shear cleanly.

Best bet is to remove the diff, wash it down or at least inspect it, clean out
the case, pop out the offending axle bit and reinstall.

Diff's a bit heavy but the whole process is not a nightmare.

                         ajr

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 84 lines 3458 [forwarded 274 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 2291 [content 1915  forwarded 257 (cut  17) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>