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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: 30 Oct 1998 13:10:53 +0100
Subject: Re: Starter dog socket

NADdMD@aol.com writes:

Are you sure? I checked the tool I've been using, and it is 42mm,
which works out to just about 1 5/8. Or am I confusing the sizes here?

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: Harald Hansen <harald74@online.no>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 13:18:43 +0100
Subject: Re: Army Recovery Manual

Hello!

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:

[...]

> I think the Army has an on-line pubs site somewhere, from which you 
> could
> download all applicable stuff (probably about 20 little [5x8] pages of 
> really
> interesting stuff.)

The Army Doctrine and Training Digital Library page can be found at

http://155.217.58.58/

but I can't seem to find FM 9-43-2 there.  Lots of other interesting
stuff, tho...

Regards,
Harald

-- 
Harald Hansen                       #========#       1976 Land Rover
Student, strategy gamer, LR owner   |___|__|__\___   Series III 109"
E-mail at: harald74@online[DOT]no   |  _|  |   |_ |}  Station Wagon
(Replace the [DOT] with a dot)      ""(_)""""""(_)"

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From: Marc Rengers <mr@b4m.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 98 13:36:47 +0200
Subject: Re: Ahoy/Speedo cable & Noise

>Damn. Now I know how slow I'm going...

Use bigger tyres..... then you'll go faster than the speedo reads.

Marc Rengers
Westeremden, Holland
mr@b4m.com
0596-551334 (home)
050-3666761 (work)
06-51550521 (GSM)
06-59111461 (pager)
http://www.minerva.fk.hanze.nl/landrover/index.html

           --_                                --_         
      _____|__\___                    ________|__\___     
      | _  |   |_ |}                  |  _    |   |_ |}   
      "(_)"""""(_)"                   ""(_)"""""""(_)"
 1978 88"  2.25 diesel            1968  109"  2.25 petrol
     reg. 47-DB-13                     reg. unknown    
      marine blue                 green (15 layers of paint)

also subscribed to LAND ROVER Owner International (great magazine)

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:12:38 -0400
Subject: Re: Coasting noise problem

Marcel Viljoen wrote:
> Hi
> I am new to the list, and want to kick off with a technical query.  This
> pertains to my Landie, Mildred, a IIA 88 that has had a new lease of
> life given to her, and at least 3 S1 80s in Pietermaritzburg.
> The vehicles run fine, but when coasting ie travelling on a
> flat/downhill with slight throttle there is a *HUGE* clattering racket,
> which I cant identify - seems to be prop/transfer box region. Slipping
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> Now it does seem that the rear output shaft and high gear wheel are
> significantly worn - could this have an impact?
 The Salisbury  axle requires a shorter drive shaft by at least 1 inch.
Check that yours isn't binding some where.
The other thing that comes to mind is the state of the bearing for the
intermediate gear in the transfercase.
   John and Muddy

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:20:00 EST
Subject: Re: Army Recovery Manual

Give me a couple of days.  The manual has been pulled from our web site for
update.  May be able to get the old one loaded back on as an interim.  If not,
I'll let everyone know when the new one is loaded and available.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:23:43 -0400
Subject: Re: alloy threaded welsh plug

Allen Northwood wrote:
> Hi everyone.
> Right up high on the engine block (petrol 2.25) under the manifolds are two
> threaded alloy plugs, and one has developed a leak.
> I've removed the wing and manifolds and replaced it but must have damaged
> the thread in the block getting the old out because the replacement plug
> was impossible to screw in all the way and it still bloody leaks.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> to change the block?
> Any advice gratefully received.
You should be able to get a tap to clean the tread and don't forget to
use some Teflon thread sealer when you replace the plug.
    John and Muddy

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 98 08:25:54 -0500
Subject: Re[2]: Overdrive assembly lubrication question 

>Nate,

>Like Al, I've been using CV joint grease.  As the "splash" lubrication of the 
>sleeve clutch assy looks to be minimal in use, I think the moly will provide 
>the lube necessary (and wash out with 90 wt if it does splash lube).  Also I 
>pull the OD annually and relube.

you know, i used CV grease on mine as well, in the hopes the the moly would 
stay behind after the grease went "away". I recently had to remove the OD after 
about 1.5 years of operation, and this is what I found. 
 The bearing had *no* traces of moly grease on it, but had suffered also no 
wear and was quite clearly getting sufficient gear oil lubrication. there are 
two holes between the gear teeth on the main shaft that pick up gear oil that 
is thrown off the transfer box intermediate gear. this is the same way many 
other bearings and bushings are lubricated in the t-box and the main box.
 as for the splines, well, they were still coated with grease since they are 
*not* splash lubricated. They did show a small degree of wear, so I may replace 
the bearing when I put it all back together. they are such a tight fit that 
there is no way oil can really get between them. however no amount of 
lubrication will save them from their inevitable fate of stripping off. keep in 
mind they don't move, they are engaged and they stay in the same position 
relative to each other until or unless they strip out. so the yearly removal is 
probably more useful as an inspection than anything.

later
daveb 

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 07:52:30 -0600
Subject: RE: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

>Luis, check the condition of the splines of the axle drivers (the piece
>that connects the axles to the hubs) If you have the 24 spline version
>they are prone to wear and will increase the play in the drive shaft a
>lot. I thought I was going to need a new Salisbury diff but 2 new
>drivers took away all the excess play.
>I hope such and easy fix works for you.

I will check that out first of all. But before addresing this new issue I
have to take a rest. The last fixing-changing session left me exahusted
(-$!).

Someone told me yes and someone told me not, so I have to ask a bigger
crowd.
Is it true that the Defender-RR-Disco diffs are all the same?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Thorsten Klein <kleit001@mail.Uni-Mainz.de>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 15:01:06 +0100
Subject: BBlist , new keeper, changes

Sorry for wasting bandwidth and crossposting, this is for BBlist members
and wanttobes

Please could all BBlistmembers, who havent got my message on wednesday
email me directly.

Many thanks, Thorsten

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:41:33 -0600
Subject: BIG SPOT (please read!)

Before I finish reading all the messages from today, I NEED to tell you all
what happened last night.
I have heard many cases of Stupid Previous Owner Tricks on the list, but
what I found last night when trying to fix the auxiliary lights deserves an
award.
When I got the car I saw that the cable that came out to conect the aux.
lights in front was very poorly set so I cut it out replaced al terminals
and all was well. I didn't bother to trace it down. A week or so later I
decided to change the switch for a nice looking one. I dissasambled some
dash parts, got the old switch out, everything pretty normal, two cables,
got the new switch connected and everything worked fine.
But, last night, there was a lot of fog everywhere (Mitch side efect), so I
got the yellow aux lights on, but they where very dim (I had replaced the
bulbs with two 130Ws and it didn't show). Something had to be broken I
guessed.
Got home and began checking. Grounds where good. But I noticed that whenever
I switched them on I couldn't hear no "click" sound, as you normally get
from a relay. That made me suspicious.
So I decided to track down the cable to see how the PO had connected them.
The cable came directly from the lights through the bulkhead, no tricks
there. I guessed the PO would have taken + from the fuse box, so I cheked it
for suspicious cables. Found one, but that was going to the gearbox (another
SPOT, another story). But besides that one nothing else.
I decided then to trace the + cable from the switch. It went upwards to the
rear of the meters area. I got all the dash out.
Began looking for the cable... wait a minute... it is connected to something
in the dash... OH NO...
THE CABLE WAS CONNECTED DIRECTLY TO THE FUEL LEVEL METER!!!!!!
Instead of going to the sender, the meter was connected to the AUX LIGHTS!!!
And I wondered why it did't work.
I cant imagine why in hell can a person even THINK of a setup like that. It
would have been 1000 times easier to get + from anywhere else!!
I didnt know if I was supposed to be pissed off or to laugh my a*s out.
Simply couldn't belive it, checked it three times just to be sure.
So now I guess my meter must be toast, since it didn't even move with 260W
pumped through it.
Today I'm buying some relays, cable and fuse-holders to try to fix this
iluminated mess.
I was thinking, before the discovery, that the fuel meter thing was going to
be a simple fix. I guess it is not.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:53:00 -0600
Subject: RE: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

>The light duty diesel trucks identified with a UD inside a circle are
>Nissan commercial trucks.  The lightest duty one has a 140 HP intercooled
>turbo diesel with five speed transmission.  The others have a totally
>different 210 HP engine with different transmissions.
>I'm trying to find a place with info on the light duty commercial engine
>& 5 speed transmission.  If worst comes to worst I would consider
>importing a transmission from Australia & keeping parts on hand.

No need to go that far. UDs crawl all aroud here and there are many stores
where they import used japaneese engines and transmisions. It is just a
matter of searching for it. The adaptor plate, that is another story, that
must be an Australian-only item.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

>The light duty diesel trucks identified with a UD inside a circle are

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:06:10 -0500
Subject: Re: BIG SPOT (please read!)

BWWWWAAAAhahahahahaaaaaa.....

Luis, pardon the laughter, but that is absolutely classic. That has got to be
the dumbest SPOT I have ever heard of.

Question is, though  - was he drawing the power from the input side of the meter
(the 10-volt side)  or the level sender side?

If it was the 10-volt side, it may well be that all that is wrong with the meter
is that the connections fused the 10-volt gauge regulator (which is not designed
to handle that type of current). in that case, it should be simple to fix. You
also may want to replace the voltage regulator for the gauges - this is a little
3-legged plug in on the back of the instrument panel, most likely.

If it's the latter, then I'm amazed it didn't just blow up...

                    ajr

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:10:16 -0500
Subject: making tracks

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

>> The best way to get them out is to rip the felt out of the track so you
>>can see the little bleeders - this means destroying the track, but it's
>>inexpensive 

The only thing I would add is to use a small cold chisel and whack it along
the track 'til you find a screw and then use needle-nose vise grips to
remove 'em.  There won't be a slot left on the screw.  On onerous job, this.

and Con Seitl wrote:

>Inexpensive??? Where you getting yours lately? ;->   My last order from
>the UK for enough to do the back sliding window set me back 40 bucks

Just get yourself to any ship chandler or marine supply place.  Generic
marine window channel (stainless steel with synthetic felt and Derlin
slides no less) can be had in 8' lengths for $2/foot or less, slightly more
for double track....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:19:18 EST
Subject: Re: Starter dog socket

In a message dated 10/30/98 7:14:17 AM Eastern Standard Time, tekr@nextel.no
writes:

<< > It's actually 1 and 11/16 not what I said earlier.  You'll also need and
 Are you sure? I checked the tool I've been using, and it is 42mm,
 which works out to just about 1 5/8. Or am I confusing the sizes here?
  >>

I've been using it frequently over the last few weeks, with good success.
Only way to put 100 ft-lbs of torque on the mainshaft nut when the prop shafts
are out.  BTW, 42 mm works out to be a little bigger than 1 5/8 while 1 11/16
is slightly larger than 42 mm.  I believe 1 5/8 may be a bit too small.  I
figure with slop, 42 mm and 1 11/16 are essentially equivalent, though I
assume the starter dog isn't metric (at least on my SIIa)

Nate

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:26:12 -0600
Subject: RE: BIG SPOT (please read!)

>BWWWWAAAAhahahahahaaaaaa.....
>Luis, pardon the laughter, but that is absolutely classic. That has got to

be
>the dumbest SPOT I have ever heard of.

I totally agree.

>Question is, though  - was he drawing the power from the input side of the
meter
>(the 10-volt side)  or the level sender side?
>...
>If it's the latter, then I'm amazed it didn't just blow up...

>From the level sender side. It must be toast. You should have seen it, if
you did't know where the cable went you would say it was the original
setting. Nice terminals, well fit. The work of a professional stupid.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:04:39 -0700
Subject: Re: Solihull Society

Bill,

I am the person to speak to now. I appologize for the screw-up. Between the '97
rally and the 98 Steamboat Rally we under went some termoil in our membership 
data
base. I would like to offer you a free renewal in the Solihull Society for this
next years membership.

I will cc our new mwmbership director regarding this and make certain that your
name and information are added properly to the mailing list.

Once again my appologies. The valu I hope will show itself in the next few 
months.

Yours'

K. John Wood
 Solihull Society- Pres.

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 98 10:59:45 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas/Girling vs. Castrol LMA 

> RN may be your only supplier of this Lucas stuff (I don't know 
>of any other source in the US but Moss and/or Victoria British 
>probably sell it, too) and when they run out...

>rd/nige

local auto parts place has the Lucas brake fluid. I use Castrol LMA...
never had any problems w/it, why change. I asked and they told me that a guy 
with some fancy sports car asked them to carry the Lucas. 

later
dave

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From: "David R. Bobeck"<dbobeck@ushmm.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 98 11:06:36 -0500
Subject: Re: 109SW seatbelt anchors 

>OHHH, I get it.  The roof is supposed to be ATTACHED?  Maybe that's why I get 
>soaked every time I turn left after a good hard rain.

well, yes Bill, the roof IS supposed to be attached. but. the reason you get 
soaked everytime you tun left has more to do with the badge on the grille than 
the ratio of bolts to holes in your roof. Or the weather for that matter...

cheers
dave

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:47:47 -0800
Subject: Re: Series III colors

From: "Blair Gillespie" <blairg@fix.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:47:47 -0800
Subject: Series III Colors

>I have a 1972 88. I have been trying to figure what red they used for
that model year. Does anybody know what the correct name for the red they
had used?

I'm probably 100 percent wrong, for some reason the name "Poppy Red" sticks
in my mind as being the name of the red Land Rover was using in the early
1970s.  I know the engine color at that time was called "Robin's Egg Blue,"
and of course the off-white was called "Limestone," although some people,
including the dealer I bought my Series III from, called the off-white
"Desert Sand."  While I still have all the sales brochures for the Land
Rover from 1973, I'd have to hunt for them.  I know the colors were all
specified in the literature.  Perhaps someone with the brochures readily at
hand can list the official color names from that era.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:46:02 -0600
Subject: RV: BIG SPOT (please read!)

>>BWWWWAAAAhahahahahaaaaaa.....
>>Luis, pardon the laughter, but that is absolutely classic. That has got to
>be
>>the dumbest SPOT I have ever heard of.

I totally agree.

>>Question is, though  - was he drawing the power from the input side of the
>meter
>>(the 10-volt side)  or the level sender side?
>>...
>>If it's the latter, then I'm amazed it didn't just blow up...

>From the level sender side. It must be toast. You should have seen it, if
you did't know where the cable went you would say it was the original
setting. Nice terminals, well fit. The work of a professional stupid.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Michael Carradine <cs@landrover.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:13:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Re: Series III colors

At 08:47 AM 10/30/98 -0800, you wrote:
:>I have a 1972 88. I have been trying to figure what red they used for
:that model year. Does anybody know what the correct name for the red they
:had used?

 www.landrover.net/paint

-MC

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 12:16:44 EST
Subject: Re: RV: BIG SPOT (please read!)

As we are in the SPOT mode, perhaps I may interject the story of My Beater.

I purchased an 1988 RR from an individual after it had sustained some body
damage.  After ascertaining that I could repair the damage I saw, I asked the
owner about the accident which produced the bent sheet metal.

The story as it was told to me goes something like the following:
The PO was asked, by a car selling friend, to recover a vehicle which had been
abandoned by the purchaser. The purchaser had abandoned the 1993 RR in a
garage in Mendocino (a coastal town several hours travel North of San
Francisco).  So the seller, the friend (PO), and My new acquisition secured a
tow dolly and left to recover the Rangie.  Arriving at the garage, they were
informed by the mechanic that the problem with the abandoned Rangie was the
total lack of oil in the sump, the buyer hadn't checked the oil for three
months and the engine was fried.

The two intrepid travelers loaded the fried Rangie onto the tow dolly and set
off on the return trip swearing at the stupidity of the buyer.  At the end of
a long down hill grade the driver (PO) discovered that two vehicles at 65 mph
with only one braking do not perform with the usual dispatch.  The driver
entered panic braking mode and stomped on the pedal as if pursued by the
demons of hell.  Isaac Newton (Simple newtonian physics) interfered with the
POs long term happiness as the vehicle towed was not secured well to the dolly
and became free, climbing over the dolly and bashing the center of the
tailgate about 24" forward of the approved location as well as destroying the
rear window and pushing the center roof forward about 12".  Surprised and
frightened by the noise, the PO swerved to the left, allowing the towed
vehicle it's freedom.  It passed him and careened off the mountainside towards
the cliff & ocean.  The large tree stopped it's progress so the beach was
saved.  The PO, still careening down the mountain road attempted to scrub off
a little speed by sliding along the drivers side of the vehicle with the
convenient embankment grinding the front and rear corners alternately while he
came to a halt.

No lives were lost and no animals were tortured in the preperation of the
feature above.
The horrendous toll on sheet aluminum and his pocketbook is only to be
imagined.

Two Range Rovers out of the action, One salvageable in minutes because they
forgot to do up the straps properly.

Mine is now back on the road and operating well, the Other is destroyed.

Does this come in near the top of PO tricks or what?

Zack Arbios
porta-power advocate.

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 12:20 -0500
Subject: RE: Series III colors

poppy red is the red...

the off-white of the roof is Limestone

Desert Sand is the darker tan color...

you could check out www.eastcoastrover.com and go through all of their
pics of rovers that they have restored to get good ideas about all of the
colors. Names are one thing, but a picture is even better.

 -Scott  

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 07:34:03
Subject: Re: alloy threaded welsh plug

	I had the same thing happen after rebuilding my engine.  Didn't realize
these aluminum plugs even existed, let alone could leak.  You can buy
rubber plugs that are tightened/expanded with a bolt in the center.  Got
mine from a machine shop who seemed to think it was pretty common fix for
the problem.  The plug has been in mine for 3 years and slightly less than
30,000 miles and seems.  It seems to be holding up well.  Wish the same
could be said for the freeze plugs and npt plug that I did change in the
rebuild.  From memory I think it is a 7/8" plug that you need.  The hole
measures 1" but I couldn't get a 1" plug into the hole.  
	It seems that to get the aluminum plugs to fit you'll need to have a
machine shop thoroughly clean up the threads and install the plugs for you.
 Nothing I could do with the engine in the car seemed to work.
Aloha Peter

At 08:23 PM 10/30/98 +1000, you wrote:

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 07:29:13 -1000
Subject: Re: Starter dog socket

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:09:38
Subject: Re: aluminum plug replacement

	I had the same thing happen after rebuilding my engine.  Didn't realize
these aluminum plugs even existed, let alone could leak.  You can buy
rubber plugs that are tightened/expanded with a bolt in the center.  Got
mine from a machine shop who seemed to think it was pretty common fix for
the problem.  The plug has been in mine for 3 years and slightly less than
30,000 miles.  It seems to be holding up well.  Wish the same could be said
for the freeze plugs and npt plug that I did change in the rebuild.  From
memory I think it is a 7/8" plug that you need.  The hole measures 1" but I
couldn't get a 1" plug into the hole.  
	It seems that to get the aluminum plugs to fit you'll need to have a
machine shop thoroughly clean up the threads and install the plugs for you.
 Nothing I could do with the engine in the car seemed to work.
Aloha Peter

>Right up high on the engine block (petrol 2.25) under the manifolds are two
>threaded alloy plugs, and one has developed a leak.
>Allen
>Sydney, Aust.

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:19:08
Subject: Re: Starter dog socket

	Since I am becoming anal retentive about the tools that I use on the
rover, could you tell me where I can get a 1 41/64th chisel to remove this
nut???
	Thanks for the input Peter.  I had decided to see if I could find a 42mm
socket and failing that a 1 11/16th as it for sure fits.  Are you going to
Maui to check out those rovers???
	The guy who owns Hilo Lawn mower Repair in Hilo (935-6575) is reputed to
have rover parts laying around.  You might give him a call to see what he
has.  I think he ended up with a clean 109 frame that used to be in this area.
Aloha Peter

>It is actually 1 41/64ths so the 11/16's will be a little proud but I
>believe the 1 5/8 would be just a bit too snug
>Aloha
>Pete

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From: "Dr. Russ" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 13:45:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: cheap window tracking

	
Sandy (and others before him) wrote:

***
Just get yourself to any ship chandler or marine supply place.  Generic
marine window channel (stainless steel with synthetic felt and Derlin
slides no less) can be had in 8' lengths for $2/foot or less, slightly
more for double track....  
***

but don't look now folks...one supplier of bits here in the NE
USA (uh, happens to "sponsor" this list) sells decent window
channel with synthetic felt (not sure what Derlin slides are?)
for like $9.95 for a 2 meter length.  I got some recently and
it sure is pretty (but wish I could have simply found a source
of 1/8" felt strips instead, since all my SII channels are in
fine shape but the felt is shot...can't say the same for any
of my SIIa channels...all rotted out).

I'm not certain if they are stainless, though 'cause they've got
this rubber like coating over the metal bits and I couldn't yet
bring myself to peek underneath.

r"Seth, you owe me one"d/nige

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:56:16 -1000
Subject: Concrete Island Rovers

> Thanks for the input Peter.  I had decided to see if I could find a 42mm
>socket and failing that a 1 11/16th as it for sure fits.  Are you going to
>Maui to check out those rovers???
> The guy who owns Hilo Lawn mower Repair in Hilo (935-6575) is reputed to
>have rover parts laying around.  You might give him a call to see what he
>has.  I think he ended up with a clean 109 frame that used to be in this
area.
>Aloha Peter
>socket and failing that a 1 11/16th as it for sure fits.  Are you going to
>Maui to check out those rovers???

Not sure.  Can not do much of anything right now.  Live up in Pacific
Palisades in Pearl City.  Only one road up the hill which is currently
blocked by the Honolulu SWAT team.  Seams they have a hostage situation at
the bottom of the hill.  No one alowed in or out.  Wife is stuck over at the
BOQ on base.  Too bad the Rover is not drivable (required LR content) other
wise I could follow a small stream down hill.  Ahhh well at least I have
enough food and water.  haha

I mentioned to the wife about going to Maui for a vacation soon.  She likes
the idea.  Looking into hops right now.  How hard is it to ship vehicles
between islands if I do make the journey?

Just got off the phone with Tim Cornell, guess 3 others have gotten to him
before I.  He sold two 88's recently.  My wife has seen two 109's with base
stickers running around also.  One with an 88 top on it.  I am very
surprised by the number of Rovers on the concrete island.  Thats five here
now that I know off.  Hmm, maybe I can get a Rovers Club together.  haha

Aloha
Pete

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From: "Tackley, John" <jtackley.dit@state.va.us>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 14:29:45 -0500
Subject: RE: cheap window tracking

All this talk about fancy, schmantzy felt covered track..... shhheeesh; 
...just excuse me...
but I must report a "Brilliant Landy Owner Workaround" , that solved this
problem forever on my Series III !
 
(Right, Treavor?...you listening???)

Just take any old tire inner tube (bicycle inner tube seems to work well)
and cut it into 3/4 inch wide strips, in lengths as long as the faulty rusty
channel in need of new felt.  Use some of that adhesive you all use to glue
on the door seals and glue the inner tube strip in a "U" shape into the
rusty channel.  "W" shape for double channels.  Now use some WD40 to grease
the newly "rubberized" channels.  (You can even snake the inner tube under
the glass without removing it, if you are clever :^) )
No rattles.  No leaks.  Doesn't wear out.  Or at least it hasn't since
Treavor installed it !!!

Speak up Treavor!  Take credit for this, or give credit where it is due !

John Tackley
Richmond, VA
"Oh my God, I've got 3 of them now..."

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 16:32:50 -0400
Subject: Re: RV: BIG SPOT (please read!)

Zaxcoinc@aol.com wrote:
> As we are in the SPOT mode, perhaps I may interject the story of My Beater.
> I purchased an 1988 RR from an individual after it had sustained some body
> damage.  After ascertaining that I could repair the damage I saw, I asked the
> owner about the accident which produced the bent sheet metal.
> The story as it was told to me goes something like the following:
> The PO was asked, by a car selling friend, to recover a vehicle which had been

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 46 lines)]
> Mine is now back on the road and operating well, the Other is destroyed.
> Does this come in near the top of PO tricks or what?
 AH but it's an ill wind........
John and Muddy

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 17:44:51 -0500
Subject: Re: Starter dog socket

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:

>                 Thanks for the input Peter.  I had decided to see if I
> could find a 42mm
> socket and failing that a 1 11/16th as it for sure fits.  Are you
> going to
> Maui to check out those rovers???

Try using a 1 11/16 socket with a thin piece of sheet metal as a shim.
0.020 in should be about the right thickness if you cut a piece just
long enough to wrap around the inside of the socket.

I'd guess that the nut is a Whitworth size, which wouldn't necessarially
be a common fraction.

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 19:54:45 EST
Subject: Re: Series III colors

In a message dated 30/10/98 17:48:43 BST, you write:

 >I have a 1972 88. I have been trying to figure what red they used for
 that model year. Does anybody know what the correct name for the red they
 had used?
  >>

 Masai Red

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "Ed Alvarez" <tunguska@mozcom.com>
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 09:21:15 +0800
Subject: thank you tyre inflation and mud

hello listers,

i would like to thank all of you who  helped me with my question on 
tyre inflation and driving in mud.  i don't want you all to think i was 
ungrateful, i have been out of town for 3 weeks and had some one 
download all the postings, whew lots of mail to read :-)

thanks again i am now better informed and wiser

thank you

Ed

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From: pete.c88@juno.com (peter j cosmides)
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 20:53:40 +0000
Subject: Re.  Series 3 red paint color

The red used for the series 3 was called poppy red.  The dupont paintcode
for this is 38506. However check with your supplier first, as I have had
this code show up as a Ford blue of some sort from varying suppliers. 
When all else fails, remove one of the bulkhead vents and use the
"generally "unmolested red paint on the inside as a guide for color
matching.   By the way,  Krylon Antique white is a very close match for
the top and wheels for you "paint it yourselfers" out there.  
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 19:56:35 -0700
Subject: 96 Mid Atlantic and the Gods Must Be Crazy

Since there is a;of  discussion on the topic.

I have a panoramic photo of the drive -in with all the
Rovers.  Actually I spliced together three still shots but
you can hardly tell.  If any of you would like a photo of
130+ rovers in one location, e-mail me.  It is a long
down-load so I would like to do it only once or twice.
E-mail me off list and I'll get it out.

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 17:09:12 -1000
Subject: Rear Chassis Member Handles

Aloha everyone.
Have not seen mention of these before so I just had to ask.  What is the
purpose for the two handles mounted at the rear of the Rover?  I can just
see someone who may be a quarter short using them as a recovery point.  Do
they serve a purpose?  Why not just remove them?

Pete

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 21:43:47 -0700
Subject: Re: Rear Chassis Member Handles

Peter wrote:
>Aloha everyone.
>Have not seen mention of these before so I just had to ask.  What is the
>purpose for the two handles mounted at the rear of the Rover?  I can just
>see someone who may be a quarter short using them as a recovery point.  Do
>they serve a purpose?  Why not just remove them?

I've found them to be very handy for pulling, lifting, pushing, etc -by
hand-. I think this was the original purpose. It's amazing what a couple of
guys can get an 88 out of with bare hands! I think the original term for
them is "lifting handles."

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 00:50:17 EST
Subject: Re: Army Recovery Manual

In a message dated 98-10-30 07:19:54 EST, you write:

<<  I think the Army has an on-line pubs site somewhere, from which you 
 > could
 > download all applicable stuff (probably about 20 little [5x8] pages of 
 > really
 > interesting stuff.)
 The Army Doctrine and Training Digital Library page can be found at
 
 http://155.217.58.58/
 
 but I can't seem to find FM 9-43-2 there.  Lots of other interesting
 stuff, tho...
  >>
For those who sometimes find their knowledge of automotive systems a little
lacking. I highly recommend TM 9-8000, Fundamentals of Automotive Vehicles. It
is a manual that explains virtually every component and system of almost any
type of vehicle Starting from the very basics and going up to the steering
transmissions used in armored vehicles. It is written in plain english
(american?) with many illustrations and schematic drawings to assure that no
question goes unanswered. It is a very thick manual and probably fairly
expensive but if you need a little tutoring about how the damned thing works
it is worth it. I have my copy and you are not getting it.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Bombdiver@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 00:55:26 EST
Subject: Hummer Recovery Points

FYI,
  The mounting brackets that are located on the Hummer Hubs are the same size
as those found on the front bumper. I have two of these brackets sitting under
my desk at work. They were removed from a Hummer that was on it's way to DRMO
to be crushed. The word that I got from our Seabees was that they are used
more for securing the vehicles during flights (aircraft and hovercraft)
rather than for vehicle recovery. Most vehicle tie down points are located on
the body or frame of the vehicle above the suspension system. Even after
tightening tie down chains, the vehicles will still rock and roll during
landing , take offs and rough weather. By securing the vehicle below the
suspension system, the vehicle is less likely to cause damage to other cargo
or the aircraft for that matter. The vehicle will still wiggle but it won't
jump about on the cargo deck. BTDT, don't care to do it again! Cheers

Andy Baran
95 Discovery
71 SIIA 88

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 20:03:59 -1000
Subject: Re: Hummer Recovery Points

>  The mounting brackets that are located on the Hummer Hubs are the same
size
>as those found on the front bumper

Some versions of the HumVee do have the self extraction hubs.  These are not
loops at the center of the hub but rather a pie shaped piece of metal that
extends from the hub to the rim of the tire.  Has a bunch of holes drilled
init.  Don't see them that often on military HumVees but they are on most of
the civilian ones I have seen.  I do remember seeing them on the old M151
jeeps and a couple of Dueces.  But I have never seen or heard of anyone
actually using them.
Aloha
Pete

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 31 Oct 1998 01:36:12 EST
Subject: Re: Series III colors

In a message dated 98-10-30 11:48:43 EST, you write:

<<  "Limestone," although some people,
 including the dealer I bought my Series III from, called the off-white
 "Desert Sand." >>
Limestone and Desert Sand were two very distinct colors. The Limestone, as you
state, was a cream or off-white color while the Desert sand was a darker tan
color and actually quite attractive IMHO.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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