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From: "The Becketts" <hillman@bigpond.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:44:41 +1100
Subject: The Gods Must be Crazy

land Rovers?? All the honking, hooting and laughing... even a few SI's down
in
the front row...  (Yes, even Ron Beckett may have been persuaded to watch a
movie)>

OK, OK!  I admit it.  I have seen it BUT I saw it on video.  I haven't been
to the drive-in to see it.

Ron

(I liked it!)

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:01:49 -0400
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:

> The best way to get them out is to rip the felt out of the track so you can 
see
> the little bleeders - this means destroying the track, but it's inexpensive 
......

>.
Inexpensive??? Where you getting yours lately? ;->   My last order from
the UK for enough to do the back sliding window set me back 40 bucks,
and then I got a bill from the carrier/customs for 46 bucks. Kinda
expensive eh? BTW, the shipper was kind enough to cut the tracks to make
it a shorter package, now I also have to find a shorter window....

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:04:11 -0400
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop/ Aircraft Aluminum?

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/28/98 9:23:20 PM, you wrote:
> <<I built a new
> instrument panel from a piece of aircraft aluminum>>
> What's the difference between: that, boat aluminum, LR aluminum and tin
> (aluminum) foil? Will it last longer? Is it lighter?
> I ask only because I see so many references to "aircraft" this or that, and in

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 11 lines)]
> many cases, the advertised thing isn't even certified or up to aircraft-spec.
> Is there some tell-tale marking or spec to look for?
 It is easy to tell the difference between aircraft aluminum and boat
aluminum. Before you cut the piece you need just look to see if it has
wings on it or an outboard motor.......
    John and Muddy

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:18:30 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

Re: Tracking:

Why are you buying genuine LR for this stuff? YOu like felt and tree bark,
maybe? 8*)

I get the tracking I need through a local glass shop - it's not original, but it
fits and works.

For the prices you're paying stainless steel is available - do it once and
forget it forever. Talk to Bill Caloccia about it - that's what he installed in
his 88 and it's a beautiful fit. Bliss Marine and some of the other marine
suppliers can get it also.

               aj"the 109 has fiberglass - cheap, good fit and last forever"r

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:12:48 -0400
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

Jon.McDowell@gecits-ap.com wrote:
> G'day folks since I haven't had any success on the Australian list I
> thought I would try here,
> I managed to pick up a cab for my 1950 80 S1 from a farmer's car graveyard
> for $50 so I'm not complaining but...
> I am trying to remove the rear windows which are opaque.  The book says
> they are held on by screws through the channel.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 32 lines)]
> If you have received this mail in error, please tell us
> immediately by return email and delete the document.
 I am sure there are more screws in the bottom of the channel and I
would they are about 1/2 rusted away and so prove a real pain in the
seating area.
2nd part of your message about getting mail from you and what I MUST do.
   If I recieve unsolicited Email from any one I deem it to be a gift
and will do with it as I see fit without notice.
    John and Muddy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:31:52 EST
Subject: Re: Socket size of the hand crank starter dog nut.

In a message dated 10/29/98 3:13:12 AM Eastern Standard Time, ogilvi@hgea.org
writes:

<< Need the socket size of the hand crank
 dog nut.  >>

I don't have the info at hand but I have the socket at home.  I think it's 2
1/16 but I'll have to check that

Nate

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:52:46 -0500
Subject: Re: Socket size of the hand crank starter dog nut.

Re: Starter dog nut:

Isn't that was a smooth-jaw pipe wrench is for?

          aj"Not entirely tongue-in-cheek"r

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:46:47 EST
Subject: Re: Socket size of the hand crank starter dog nut.

In a message dated 10/29/98 8:43:18 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com writes:

<< Isn't that was a smooth-jaw pipe wrench is for?
  >>
Aw, Alan, that's my kind of trick...
No I picked one up at Sears for about 3-4 dollars.  Works great with a pipe on
the Craftsman socket handle...

Nate

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From: Art Bitterman <artbitt@rmi.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 07:24:44 -0700
Subject: Solihull Society

Bill Lawrence asked:

Speaking of Frank Jakos, is there anyone on the list from Solihull
Society?

I am as well as K John Woods-he's the Prez. What can we do for you?

Art
1960 SII "Aardvark"

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From: "Etienne Farrugia"<ef@InterTekLabs.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 15:39:54 +0200
Subject: Engine Identification

Can anyone help me with identifying the year of manufacture of TDi 200
engine.

Engine # S11l00659A

Any help mostly appreciated

Regards

Etienne - D90

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From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 07:46:15 -0600
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

>My last order from
>the UK for enough to do the back sliding window set me back 40 bucks,
>and then I got a bill from the carrier/customs for 46 bucks. Kinda
>Con Seitl

JC Whitney sells the stainless steel track for $34.99 for a 6' length of
double-track.  Thanks to Rob Davis for showing me this source.  When it's
time to do the rear window track, I'll be replacing it w/ stainless.    JC
Whitney: 312-431-612

Rgds,
Vel Natarajan

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From: Ralph N Bradt <rnbradt@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:11:57 MST
Subject: Re: Lucas humor

>Another example of this is the dipper/turn signal/high-beam switch on my wife's
>Austin-Healey. When I got the car none of it worked well - always intermittent,
>twitchy (certain lever angles would make the turn signals work, for example) 
and
>generally horrid.

Ahh, yes. Sounds like the classic Lucas 3 position light switch - 
Dim/Flicker/Off.

>With an American or Japanese car I would have thrown the switch out and blown
>$200 on a new one.
>With the Lucas bits I removed it from the car, polished all of the contacts 
with
>a relay cleaning strip (fine diamond abrasive), lubricated all the pivot points
>with Lubriplate after hosing out all the old grease with WD-40 and reinstalled
>it - good as new.

FWIW, I do the same thing on occasion of failure to switches in my T*y*ta truck.
Never have had to invest in a new switch. In general, it seems to me that the
newer vehicles, whoever makes them, have more sealed electrical
components requireing replacement of the entire component when bad, rather
than being able to dissassemble and repair. And I don't even mean the
computerized stuff requiring specialized diagnostic equipment which the
average backyard wrench can't afford. Old, simple tech vs. "superior" modern
tech. 

My SO and I have 3 cars between us (T*y*ta 4Runner (Foreigner), S*b*ru
wagon, and my '70 Series IIa). Currently, I'm in the midst of trying to get 2 
of them
back on the road. Which one still runs? The Land Rover. Not just because it's
my favorite, either, but because it's simple, straight forward technology and I
can always make it run, and do it with little more than the quintessential
Leatherman and a few other basic tools. 

Ralph Bradt

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From: Terje Krogdahl <tekr@nextel.no>
Date: 29 Oct 1998 16:43:57 +0100
Subject: Re: Socket size of the hand crank starter dog nut.

Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> writes:

> I'm in the process of installing my spare 2.25l 5 main engine in my 88 and
> need to remove the crank pulley.  Need the socket size of the hand crank
> dog nut.
> .
I'm using a 41mm wrench in my 88". Not an exact fit, but more than close
enough. Then I simply put the end of the wrench against the frame, touch
the starter, and the nut is loose. Oh, and I disconnect the ignition first!
If you use my method, make sure you put the wrench against the frame on
the correct side! (Drivers side. BTW, I'm in Norway :-) Otherwise
a rather interesting karate-like motion will result, and probably a couple
of nasty surprises.

-- 
Terje Krogdahl
1972 SIII 88" 2.25 petrol

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:05:43 -0500
Subject: Castrol, et als

Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net> wrote:

>One of the other disadvantages of silicone is that because it doesn't
>absorb as much water, mroe water will be present in the lines to cause
>corrosion.

Gotta disagree on this, Jeremy.  Unless you are one of the Ontario mud
maniacs and your Rover spend most of its life below sea level, the
principle way water gets into the brakes is to be drawn in by the
hygroscopic nature of the glycol-based fluid.  Silicone is not hygroscopic.
 Been running with it for five years [knock on wood] now and haven't
touched the brakes since, except for having the shoes relined.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 11:05:41 -0500
Subject: Light'n up

David Scheidt wrote:
>The cop asks if I know why he stopped me.  I don't, of course.  It is
>because I failed to use my left turn signal.  I had, in fact, not failed
to >use my left turn signal.  My left turn signal had failed to work.  

Jeeze, cops in NJ stop people (well *suspicious* ones, at least) who don't
use turn signals?  Here in Virginia, turn signals must be optional
equipment on cars, 'cause no one ever uses 'em.

Actually, got stopped for an extinguished tail light once.  Walk to the
back of the Rover [requisite LR content] with the cop who points to the
tail light.  I give it a good thump (Joe Lucas almost always responds to
discipline) and it works.  "Now which light was it?" I ask.  First/only
time I ever saw a cop laugh.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:13:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

Vel Natarajan wrote:

> JC Whitney sells the stainless steel track for $34.99 for a 6' length of
> double-track.  Thanks to Rob Davis for showing me this source.  When it's
> time to do the rear window track, I'll be replacing it w/ stainless.    JC
> Whitney: 312-431-612
  
    34.99..converted to Canadian is about 6,000.00 dollars these days.
plus shipping, customs and anything else this country can squeeze outta
ya. Would probably work out to about 100 bucks tho. Not quite enough in
six feet to do a window by my recollection! BTW, not enough in that
phone # to dial either! I guess I'm always coming up short!

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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From: bobnsueb@maxinet.com (Bob and Sue Bernard)
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 08:34:33 -0800
Subject: brake fluid

Hi,
I wonder if anyone else remembers what I am pretty sure that I remember,
Back when Girling crimson brake fluid went away, Castrol started selling
castrol girling to replace it. I was told by someone that Castrol bought
Girling.
I looked at a Castrol brake fluid container today but it says nothing like
that anymore. 

Bob Bernard

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From: "=?iso-8859-1?Q?Bj=F8rnung_Jensen?=" <bjjen13b@online.no>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 17:39:15 +0100
Subject: Re.: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

The free play on the drive shafts (prop-shaft) sounds excessive at more than
a 1/2 turn. I have frequently come across references to this where it is
stated that "excessive" play must be avoided. So what is excessive? I can
only remember one time seeing a quantification of this and that is that more
than a 1/4 turn is bad.

I was convinced that my Range Rover had more than that (1/4), however after
careful measurement, it was less 1/8!

Are you sure that it is more than 1/2???

Bjørnung Jensen
Norway

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:33:16 -0800
Subject: Re: Series III

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:49:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Series III

>Have you heard anything regarding the fact that a large percentage of the
'72,
'73 88's came over in blue with white due to a cancled Belgium army order?
And
that this also confused the issue of station wagon v. hard-top.

When I ordered my new Series III in 1973, I specified an all Limestone
vehicle as opposed to red/white, blue/white, green/white.  The dealer in the
San Francisco area had plenty of blue/white 88s but only one all-limestone
88, which is the one I ordered.  So I would say, yes, there were a lot of
blue/white 88s around in 73, but whether that happened to be a popular color
combination back then or it was the result of a cancelled order I have no
idea.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:38:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:22:39 -0600
Subject: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

>BUT, and this is the mystery part for me, I was able to rotate the drive
shaft more than half a turn before getting any movement on the diff. I found
there my cluck.  I asked a mech. about it and he told me that it was due to
excessive wear of
the diff. Somehow I cant swallow that.

Based on what I have been told over the years, I suspect your mechanic is
right.  I have been told by several Land Rover rebuilders over the last 25
years that the maximum "allowable" play in the drive shaft is a quarter of a
turn, and less is better.  Any more than a quarter-turn and there is
something worn out in the differential.  I was told several times what the
offending part was that wore out and allowd the excess play, but
unfortunately I can't remember what it was.  Perhaps someone on the list can
fill in my blank.

_______________
C. Marin Faure
Producer
Boeing Video Services

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From: "Blair Gillespie" <blairg@fix.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:47:47 -0800
Subject: Series III Colors

Good Morning,
    I have a 1972 88. I have been trying to figure what red they used for
that model year. Does anybody know what the correct name for the red they
had used?
Thanks'
Blair

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 09:58:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop/ Aircraft Aluminum?

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:28:27 EST
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop/ Aircraft Aluminum?

In a message dated 10/28/98 9:23:20 PM, you wrote:

<<I built a new
instrument panel from a piece of aircraft aluminum>>

>What's the difference between: that, boat aluminum, LR aluminum and tin
(aluminum) foil? Will it last longer? Is it lighter?   I ask only because I
see so many references to "aircraft" this or that, and in many cases, the
advertised thing isn't even certified or up to aircraft-spec.
Is there some tell-tale marking or spec to look for?

>(I'm not doubting you or your piece of aluminum, as we know you'd use it
given
your job, etc.)

Certain aluminum alloys are specified for aircraft use because they meet
whatever requirements the manufacturers and the regulatory agencies have
decided they must meet.  There are a lot of different aluminum alloys used
on airplanes, the specific alloy used being governed by the strength needed,
the required resistance to corrosion, and so on.  So there is no one
"aircraft aluminum."  The term, which is actually fairly meaningless, simply
implies that whatever the alloy happens to be, it meets one of the standards
established in the aircraft industry.  The proper way to refer to "aircraft
aluminum," or any aluminum for that matter, is by its alloy identifier, for
example 2024, 7075, 6061, etc.  For the record, 2024 and 7075 are tougher
alloys that are usually used for parts that have to stand up under a load.
6061 is a softer alloy and is often used for fuselage skins (I'm talking
general aviation planes like Cessnas here, not Boeing and Airbus).

The instrument panel I made happens to be "aircraft aluminum" because I got
it out of the scrap box in the shop at the company where I flew.  I have no
idea what the alloy identifier is.   For my application, just about any
aluminum alloy would have worked fine, although in general, the softer the
alloy (which usually means it has a greater aluminum content) the more it
will resist corrosion. The piece I used for my panel is pretty tough for its
thickness.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: Paul Quin <Paul_Quin@pml.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 10:03:20 -0800
Subject: Landie Aluminium

Land Rover Aluminium is actually an Aluminium / Magnesium alloy, is it not??

Birmabright by any other name.

Paul in Victoria.

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 12:05:17 -0600
Subject: RE: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

>Are you sure that it is more than 1/2???
>Bjørnung Jensen

I will meassure it exactly tonight, but I think if it is not right it is
pretty close.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 98 10:56:17 -0800
Subject: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

I'm looking for an education on the differences in 4 cylinder series rigs 
and 6 cyl series rigs...besides the engine.

I know they have a different bulkhead.  I suspect that the transmission 
cross member or transfer case mounts may be in different locations.

Anyone out there an expect on the differences & can provide distances 
between different frame part locations???

People talk about more space for mounting things in a 6 cyl LR & I'm 
wondering if it is more than just bulkhead shape.  If it is, what would 
it take to move stuff from the 4 cyl location to the 6 cyl location??

Yes I'm still evaluating engine/transmission conversion possibilities & a 
140 HP Nissan 6 cylinder diesel with a heavy duty Nissan five speed 
transmission coupled to a Rover transfer case is looking real 
interesting.  Esp with a fifth gear being overdrive, HP & torque peaks at 
comprible RPMs to LR engines, and fuel milage somewhere between 27 MPG & 
34 MPG.

Take care,

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: AKBLACKLEY@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 14:39:55 EST
Subject: Lucas Testimonials

I completely agree with the postings of Alan and John concerning the bad rap
that Lucas electrics have had to endure. Most problems can be easily dealt
with as Alan points out so well. Most problems I ve heard about (burnt wiring
harnesses etc.) often came about because the owner hacked things up, used
hardware store connectors (also guilty). The basic wiring is very sound and
long lasting, and if the owner understands the color coding, easy to trace.
The key to a successful  system are: 1) A good quality battery with good
ground connections; 2) good ground strap at the engine and good ground
connections in general; 3) a clean or new fuse box (cheap insurance); 4) a
good generator or alternator.That said it should be admitted that Lucas
alternators arent the best.... 5) clean, tight connections at  the components
themselves.
Almost any Lucas component found on Series trucks (or early Rangies or any
other Britmobile) can be cleaned, repaired, and reused. I recently restored a
69 MGB and debated using a Delco in place of the stock 18ACR. Since I wanted
the under bonnet area to look original on that car I found that the Autozone
parts stores carry a rebuilt Lucas with a lifetime warranty for about $75,
taxed and out the door. So far so good. I have heard through the MG lists that
they also carry other rebuilt Lucas bits including distributors. I havent
checked them yet for Land Rover products yet, but many MGB bits will work on a
Series even if they dont have a specific listing.
One caveat on the above: the Lucas engineering on the later rubber bumper MGs
leaves a LOT to be desired. Many weird interconnections. On my 69 tho' its a
piece of cake. Cheers, 
Andy Blackley
83 Range Rover, 69 MGB

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 13:54:32 -0600
Subject: RE: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

>Based on what I have been told over the years, I suspect your mechanic is
>right.  I have been told by several Land Rover rebuilders over the last 25
>years that the maximum "allowable" play in the drive shaft is a quarter of
a
>turn, and less is better.  Any more than a quarter-turn and there is
>something worn out in the differential.  I was told several times what the
>offending part was that wore out and allowd the excess play, but
>unfortunately I can't remember what it was.  Perhaps someone on the list
can
>fill in my blank.

This sounds pretty bad then. It would be very usefull to know which are the
parts probably worn out, to have an estimate of cost before attempting the
fix.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Ray_Burton@notes.sabre.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 14:37:07 -0600
Subject: Re: Series III brochures

Sandy Grice wrote:
>These are new 'cept where Bill Kloc's dog
>Ace kinda chewed on one corner a bit.

Does anyone know where Bill Kloc is now and if he's still a LR owner?

Sandy, correct me if I'm wrong, but wasn't what is refered to as the
"Hard-top" in the literature, also known as a "Regular" at one time?

Cheers,
Ray Burton
'64 ser.2a 109 SW
'70 ser.2a 88 regular or hardtop (even though it has a SW tag on th back)
'84 RR

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 08:02:45 +1000
Subject: Re:Station Wagons & Hardtops

I don't think it should be a real problem with the 109s - that second set
of hinges on the side (connected to the second set of doors) usually gives
away the station wagon  :-)

rom: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:26:21 -0600
Subject: Station Wagons & Hardtops
So...we're debating what constitutes a "Station Wagon" again.  I don't
think anyone has mentioned this feature yet:  the back seats.  88-inch SWs
should have the individually folding jumps seats; HTs have either no seats
or the standard, fixed bench seat.  The 109s confuse things a bit since
they were all equipped with rear bench seats (yes, both 10 and 12
passenger).   I've checked this against my "Land-Rover Series II and IIA
Parts Catalogue for Petrol and Diesel Models"  (The Rover Company Limited,
Solihull, Warwickshire, England, Technical Publication TP365A, Part No.
4656, July 1964).  I believe the same holds true for Series III models in
regard to the seats.
Well, that's my contribution to the mass confusion.
Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor"
-

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From: Sski3@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 17:24:17 EST
Subject: Heater switch wiring....

I may be wrong but I took my heater blower out and replaced it with a TR7
blower motor, and found that the resistor is in the old blower housing. That
is where you get the two speeds. 
Regards
Steve F 
69 SIIA 88 bug eye

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From: car4doc <car4doc@concentric.net>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 16:41:11 -0600
Subject: Re: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

Hi TeriAnn,
 Well the NADA frame differance is to move the rear transmission mount
xmamber rearward about 4".  The flloors & bulkhead are modified to give
more room for the 6cyl.  The brakes are larger, current 110 I believe.
Less expensive then 4 cyl 109 brakes.  & there is a brake booster.  Of
course when you move the transmission back the drive shafts change.  I
have both frames here(for friends) & the 4" move of the trans mount is
the main differance.

Regards,
   Rob Davis_Chicago,.

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From: "Mark Oellermann" <MarkO@vrt.com.au>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 09:26:12 +1000
Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative

>That's very interesting Joseph - do you know how to contact them? 
>Ray

I did a little looking into this about 6 months ago. Try -

Maxi-Drive Engineering
4 Ryecroft Street
Carrara QLD 4211
+61 7 5530-3934

or

FWD in Brisbane
+61 7 38489323
~$AU 1100

or

Discovery Automotive
Perth
+61 8 93095400
Thomas Tickel

or

Contact Four Wheel Drives
(03) 98 900 500
http://www.fwd.com.au/
$AU 850

> Who knows what time (or day, for that matter!) it is down there. 
Don't worry, we start every day ahead of you guys ;-)

Mark.
___________________________

Mark Oellermann
1976 SIII 109", Holden 186 6cyl
E-mail:	Mark.O@ibm.net
___________________________

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 14:26:00 -1000
Subject: Re: Two and One-Half Series II Rovers Spotted on Maui

>Does anyone on the list live on Maui?  I know Peter lives in Hawaii (and
>maybe other members do, also) but I don't know if anyone lives on or

travels
>regularly to Maui.  About one mile west from Oheo Gulch (often called the
>Seven Sacred Pools) on Highway 31 we spotted two fairly complete Series
>Rovers plus a complete hardtop.

Hmmm, maybe I will have to get a hop over there this weekend and check them
out.  Just curious, were they both SWB's?

Peter, you know about these?

Aloha Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 14:40:37 -1000
Subject: Re: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

>Yes I'm still evaluating engine/transmission conversion possibilities & a
>140 HP Nissan 6 cylinder diesel with a heavy duty Nissan five speed
>transmission coupled to a Rover transfer case is looking real
>interesting.

Just curious, does anyone know if the Nissan diesel is the same engine that
IH used for their Scouts in the late 70's?
Mahalo
Pete

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 15:05:02 -1000
Subject: Re: The Gods Must be Crazy

>I've got to get a winch like that!
>Bill Lawrence

Got the winch, and it sure is one heavy bugger.  260lbs according to the
manual.

Even more of a coincidence.  Was just flipping through the channels and the
movie is on the Comedy Channel right this minute
Aloha Pete

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 21:27:25 -0400
Subject: Re: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

Luis Manuel Gutierrez wrote:
> >Based on what I have been told over the years, I suspect your mechanic is
> >right.  I have been told by several Land Rover rebuilders over the last 25
> >years that the maximum "allowable" play in the drive shaft is a quarter of
> a
> >turn, and less is better.  Any more than a quarter-turn and there is
> >something worn out in the differential.  I was told several times what the
> >offending part was that wore out and allowd the excess play, but
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> This sounds pretty bad then. It would be very usefull to know which are the
> parts probably worn out, to have an estimate of cost before attempting the
Luis, check the condition of the splines of the axle drivers (the piece
that connects the axles to the hubs) If you have the 24 spline version
they are prone to wear and will increase the play in the drive shaft a
lot. I thought I was going to need a new Salisbury diff but 2 new
drivers took away all the excess play.
I hope such and easy fix works for you.
    John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 21:17:53 -0400
Subject: Re: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

TeriAnn Wakeman wrote:
> I'm looking for an education on the differences in 4 cylinder series rigs
> and 6 cyl series rigs...besides the engine.
> I know they have a different bulkhead.  I suspect that the transmission
> cross member or transfer case mounts may be in different locations.
> Anyone out there an expect on the differences & can provide distances
> between different frame part locations???

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> comprible RPMs to LR engines, and fuel milage somewhere between 27 MPG &
> 34 MPG.
 The transmission/transfercase is about 4inches to the rear as is
gearbox mount xmember. The bulkhead is shaped so that the transmission
tunnel is shorter than a 4 cylinder as the seat box is in the same
place. 
I can't visualise where the extra space for mounting stuff would come
from.
The rear drive shaft is shorter  and the front is longer.
The Australians seem to like the conversion you talk about but Iam not
sure that the Nissan 5 speed they use was ever available in North
America. It is used in heavier trucks than Nissan exported to this
continent. However if you can find a source let us know.
    John and Muddy

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 20:45:22 EST
Subject: Re: Starter dog socket

Hi Peter,

It's actually 1 and 11/16 not what I said earlier.  You'll also need and
adaptor for it, it's a BIG drive (3/4 I think) If you go to Sears, you'll see
what I mean.

Nate

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 21:06:12 EST
Subject: Re: Solihull Society

In a message dated 98-10-29 09:31:55 EST, you write:

 I am as well as K John Woods-he's the Prez. What can we do for you?
 
 Art
 1960 SII "Aardvark"
  >>
I am/was a member. Joined after the 97 event at Red River. I have received
only two newsletters in a year and a half and have apparently been forgotten.
I noticed that a portion of the entry fee for the event at Steamboat this year
was $30 for a mandatory membership. My question, If I am forgotten and I only
live 400 miles away, what kind of value for money do you expect to give to
"members'" all over the world? Can someone send me a membership renewal form?
can someone convince me there is a benefit to using it?

Sorry. I realize you are not the person I need to speak to about this but, if
you would, could you please pass it along to that person?

I'm really not that hard to get along with but I feel someone has dropped the
ball.

Hope to see you some time when I'm in a better mood. Speaking of which I think
there's a beer in the refr.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM 

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 21:11:36 EST
Subject: Army Recovery Manual

Hey folks,
Just got one of these yesterday, and it's full (well, about half full, which
is pretty good for an Army manual) of good stuff.   It has all kinds of tables
for calculating load on a system based on number of sheaves (blocks,
basically) and stuff.  Great improvised recovery/ repair tips, too.   Like
putting a short log upright in a hole near your axle, leaning it against the
bottom of your axle, and driving up onto it to get your wheel off the ground
if you don't have a jack.

If you're confused, get Army FM 9-43-2 (Marine Corps FMFRP 4-34, Air Force TO
36-1-181) entitled Recovery and Battlefield Damage Assessment and Repair.

I think the Army has an on-line pubs site somewhere, from which you could
download all applicable stuff (probably about 20 little [5x8] pages of really
interesting stuff.)

Bill 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 22:37:51 EST
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

In a message dated 98-10-29 08:06:34 EST, you write:

 Inexpensive??? Where you getting yours lately? ;->   My last order from
 the UK for enough to do the back sliding window set me back 40 bucks,
 and then I got a bill from the carrier/customs for 46 bucks. Kinda
 expensive eh? BTW, the shipper was kind enough to cut the tracks to make
 it a shorter package, now I also have to find a shorter window....
 
 Con Seitl
 1973 III 88 "Pig"
 >>
Try any auto glass supplier. Ask for rigid felt run. When in doubt take a
piece along with you. It's not that rare. It is, however, that expensive.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Vel Natarajan" <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 22:17:31 -0600
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

From: Con P. Seitl <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
>    34.99..converted to Canadian is about 6,000.00 dollars these days.
>plus shipping, customs and anything else this country can squeeze outta
>ya. Would probably work out to about 100 bucks tho. Not quite enough in
>six feet to do a window by my recollection! BTW, not enough in that

The six feet is for DOUBLE-track channel.  (no need to lay the track side-by
side) Is it enough then?

>phone # to dial either! I guess I'm always coming up short!

Oops, why don't you try the web-page instead: http://www.jcwhitney.co

:-)

That should be 312-431-6102
I noticed the web-page doesn't have the channel, but the catalog does.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 00:03:11 EST
Subject: Re: The Gods Must be Crazy

In a message dated 98-10-29 20:12:20 EST, you write:

<< Got the winch, and it sure is one heavy bugger.  260lbs according to the
 manual.
  >>
Probably more appropriate on a 109 than an 80... Hey! ive got one of those!

Bill Lawrence

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From: "Piet Fourie : pah@saao.ac.za" <pah@saao.ac.za>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 07:19:30 +0200 (SAT)
Subject: Re: Lucas Testimonials

Hi all

A friend of mine is busy restoring his old MG and is looking for a MG
discussion group.  Does anybody know the address of such a group.

I find it quite interresting that The Gods must be crazy is so popular
with the LR crowd.  I know the two actors in that LR scene. They are
married to each other now.

Piet
1955 S1
1980 RR (with leaking petrol tank and power steering box) - no oil leaks.

P.A.H. Fourie   ( pah@saao.ac.za )
South African Astronomical Observatory.
P.O. Box 25 Sutherland 6920 South Africa.
Tel 023 5711135. Fax 023 5711413

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 98 21:24:07 -0800
Subject: Re: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

>The Australians seem to like the conversion you talk about but Iam not
>sure that the Nissan 5 speed they use was ever available in North
>America. It is used in heavier trucks than Nissan exported to this
;>continent. However if you can find a source let us know.

The light duty diesel trucks identified with a UD inside a circle are 
Nissan commercial trucks.  The lightest duty one has a 140 HP intercooled 
turbo diesel with five speed transmission.  The others have a totally 
different 210 HP engine with different transmissions.

I'm trying to find a place with info on the light duty commercial engine 
& 5 speed transmission.  If worst comes to worst I would consider 
importing a transmission from Australia & keeping parts on hand.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 00:40:50 EST
Subject: Re: Lucas Testimonials

In a message dated 98-10-30 00:21:28 EST, you write:

 A friend of mine is busy restoring his old MG and is looking for a MG
 discussion group.  Does anybody know the address of such a group.
 
Try Majordomo@autox.team.net and check the lists. 

 I find it quite interresting that The Gods must be crazy is so popular
 with the LR crowd.  I know the two actors in that LR scene. They are
 married to each other now.
  >>
A man to be envied.

Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque, NM (USA)

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 20:21:42 -1000
Subject: Re: The Gods Must be Crazy

><< Got the winch, and it sure is one heavy bugger.  260lbs according to the
> manual.
>Probably more appropriate on a 109 than an 80... Hey! ive got one of those!

Yeah I am going to have to fit the heavy duty front springs I guess.
Pete

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 00:02:45 -0700
Subject: Re: LR 6 cyl & 4 cyl frame/body differences??

>TW wrote:
>The light duty diesel trucks identified with a UD inside a circle are
>Nissan commercial trucks.  The lightest duty one has a 140 HP intercooled
>turbo diesel with five speed transmission.  The others have a totally
>different 210 HP engine with different transmissions.

Terriann, I suppose you've already found this website, but here it is for
those who are interested: http://www.nissandiesel.com/. Gives a lot of good
info on the UD trucks here in the states. Keep us all updated on your
research!

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 21:06:22
Subject: Re: Two and One-Half Series II Rovers Spotted on Maui

	I queried him on them.  He's not sure what condition they are in as he
only had a quick look around them.  Said they appeared complete but thinks
they are probably rusty as they are very close to the ocean.  Go have a
look and tell me what you find.
Aloha Peter

At 02:26 PM 10/29/98 -1000, you wrote:

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From: Marcel Viljoen <marcelv@msmail.cs.unp.ac.za>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 10:08:59 +0200
Subject: Coasting noise problem

Hi
I am new to the list, and want to kick off with a technical query.  This
pertains to my Landie, Mildred, a IIA 88 that has had a new lease of
life given to her, and at least 3 S1 80s in Pietermaritzburg.

The vehicles run fine, but when coasting ie travelling on a
flat/downhill with slight throttle there is a *HUGE* clattering racket,
which I cant identify - seems to be prop/transfer box region. Slipping
the vehicle into neutral immediatelly stops the noise.  It can happen at
any speed.

Now, Mildred did not have this problem until extensive rebuilding took
place. I will try and list pertinent bits.

Both props front and rear recond (incl sliding joints) (these have been
retested)
Rear axle changed to Salisbury (rear output and diff checked to be
parrallel)
New springs fitted all round (set to 170)

Now it does seem that the rear output shaft and high gear wheel are
significantly worn - could this have an impact?

TIA
Marcel

Marcel Viljoen
Department of Computer Science and Information Systems
Natal University, Pietermaritzburg
Private Bag X01
Scottsville
Pietermaritzburg
3209

Phone +27 (331)260-564 
Fax   +27 (331)260-5966 
Cell +27 82 445 7191

email marcelv@compnt.cs.unp.ac.za.

	Entropy requires no maintenance

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From: "Shaun Fisher" <FisherS@natburo.kzntl.gov.za>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 11:14:39 +0200
Subject: For Sale

Hi 
   I have a Series IIA88 for sale. This Landie is partialy rebuilt.  I live in 
Pietermaritzburg, South Africa.  If there is anyone interested my Email is:
fishers@natburo.kzntl.gov.za

Thanx
Shaun Fisher
Tel: 27-0331-952440 w  or 27-0331-443612 h 

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From: Allen Northwood <nella@enternet.com.au>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 20:23:50 +1000
Subject: alloy threaded welsh plug

Hi everyone. 

Right up high on the engine block (petrol 2.25) under the manifolds are two
threaded alloy plugs, and one has developed a leak.

I've removed the wing and manifolds and replaced it but must have damaged
the thread in the block getting the old out because the replacement plug
was impossible to screw in all the way and it still bloody leaks.

Does anyone know whether it is possible to repair the thread, or do I need
to change the block? 

Any advice gratefully received.
TIA

Allen
Sydney, Aust.

'69 IIA 109 

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From: "Con P. Seitl" <seitl@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Fri, 30 Oct 1998 07:12:22 -0400
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

Vel Natarajan wrote:

> The six feet is for DOUBLE-track channel.  (no need to lay the track side-by
> side) Is it enough then?
>.
Thanks for the link and phone #. The back window does require 'double
track' on the bottom and on the top. Total inches is about 75, about 3
inches short of six feet, but what about the two sides? It needs single
track only, but still needs it.

Con Seitl
1973 III 88 "Pig"

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