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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:04:12 -0400
Subject: Re: Brake fluid choices

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
> << >.
>  Hey! I thought we were to knock the "other" guys here! Why don't we pick
>  on F*rd. Anybody want to buy a Windshit...oops, I mean a Windstar!!?
>  Con Seitl
>  1973 III 88 "Pig"

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> drive, maintain, and even idolize these vehicles, at some considerable expense
> I might add. If Lucas is a joke then we play it upon ourselves.
 In my request for the demise of Lucas jokes I was reflecting the fact I
have had generally good service from Lucas elecetric and generally bad
service from Japanese built stuff and when repair or replacement is
needed just ask which I would rather pay for!!.
     John and Muddy

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:10:13 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Brake fluid choices

In a message dated 10/28/98 9:05:39 AM, you wrote:

<<when repair or replacement is
needed just ask which I would rather pay for!!.>>

Ok, I'll ask.

John, what would you rather pay for, repair *or* replacement?  ;-)

The same could never be asked of Dixon...

--pat.

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From: Dan Prasada-Rao <prasadaraodp.NIMITZ@NAVAIR.NAVY.MIL>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:19:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: non LR content

Doug, check out the following url.  They are a porschephile parts
house.  There are some links there that might fit what you're looking
for.

http://www.automotion.com/index.htm

Dan Prasada-Rao
'63 109 Station Wagon
'64 Formula Vee

From: Doug Boehme <DBoehme@PA.Navisys.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 09:46:43 -0500
Subject: non LR content

I apologize for the non-LR content...

Are there any Porsche mailing lists similar to the LR lists?  If so,
does anyone have info for subscribing?

Thanks,
Doug

Douglas J. Böhme
dboehme@pa.navisys.com

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 8:27:23 -0500
Subject: Re: Fluctuating ammeter

Check your grounds, then get back to us.

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:40:47 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas humor:

John,

No disrespect intended, but Lucas iron deserves a lot of the bad press it gets -
but not all by a long shot.

>From the Battle of Britain where Hurricane pilots would lose their electrical
systems by rolling their aircraft in a certain manner (thereby leaving the plane
helpless as the guns were electrically fired) all the way to the debacle of
Denver's Stapleton Airport's baggage handling systems, Lucas hardware has given
us all a rich harvest of anecdotes for humor.

The source of this is simple - rather than accepting convention in design
philosophies, Lucas used to go back and ask the basic questions again - like
"why should wheels be round?"

This leads to interesting design bits like the fuseholder on a Series vehicle -
a thin spring clip, single-sided, unsealed from the environment and unplated so
corrosion can get a foothold. Can you say voltage drop? - with that lot, easily.

Of course, this design is also easy to put right when it fails,unlike the more
modern blade holders of other vehicles. This extends to just about all of the
electrical bits in most British cars - they can fail, but when they do putting
them right is usually a matter of time and care rather than replacement.

Another example of this is the dipper/turn signal/high-beam switch on my wife's
Austin-Healey. When I got the car none of it worked well - always intermittent,
twitchy (certain lever angles would make the turn signals work, for example) and
generally horrid.

With an American or Japanese car I would have thrown the switch out and blown
$200 on a new one.

With the Lucas bits I removed it from the car, polished all of the contacts with
a relay cleaning strip (fine diamond abrasive), lubricated all the pivot points
with Lubriplate after hosing out all the old grease with WD-40 and reinstalled
it - good as new.

The fuseblock above is another example of the above - a 20-minute session with a
stainless-steel wirebrush and a pair of needlenose pliers cleaned it up and made
it like new again.

Now, before anyone says to me "But that's all old stuff - the new stuff isn't
like that!" I beg to differ...it hasn't changed.

To this point I present the fuseblock (common thread here?) of another Rover
product - a mid-80s Range Rover I've been working on of late. Again - no contact
with the fuses. The quaint design of this device made the contact blades wire
crimps - like spade lugs. Two of these inserted into each end of the fuseholder
to make contact with the fuse.

That's right - no spring in the holder at all. The sides were NOT connected.

The predictable happened - the years went by and the contacts lost tension - but
there was no way to tighten them. This lot didn't have the repair capability - 3
industrial fuseholders replaced the originals.

To sum up - Lucas stuff is a very odd design, and catches a lot of flak for its
quirks - but it suits its application well in most situations. Except in relays,
I will take 10 Lucas bits over one Bosch - at least I can fix it when it needs
to be fixed.

               aj"And I will NOT mention warm beer and Lucas refrigerators!"r

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From: rovah@agate.net
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:03:09 -0500
Subject: Heater switch wiring....

I just installed a RN heater kit in my '66IIA and would like to wire the
blower to the original switch instead of the toggle switch they sent with
the kit.  Any ideas what I might need to do to hook it up?  Someone
mentioned to me that I might need to remove the resistor on the switch
prior to hooking it up?  The original switch has two connections on it-any
easy way to tell which lead to the blower goes where?

Cheers!  John
John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA

The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/>
X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game
<http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>

2 Wheels: 1970 Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S
4 Wheels: 1998 SE Discovery "Chukka," 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966
Series IIA 88" "SWAMBO,"  1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller,"  1968
Porsche 911L, Series 109" Project

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:19:06 -0500
Subject: Series 1 Update (question)

Well, last night I managed to move my now rolling chassis from the barn to
its current place in my garage (against my wifes wishes). I was finally
able to free all 4 brake drums and remove them. This in itself is a great
accomplishement and the result of a weeks worth of continuos soaking with
rust remover and a little scrubbing with a wire brush. I also removed the
fuel tank, which suprisingly was quite easy. I also removed all 4 shocks
and began the task of scrubbing away rust from the chassis and as many
bolts as possible so when the time comes to remove these bolts and coat and
paint the chassis it won't be as big of an ordeal.

I also noticed, after fixing the battery, that when I hit the started and
the engine turned over that I was getting some sparks flying from the
generator. Is this normal? Of course the engine is not "running" yet, but
hopefully soon she will be.

My next project is to redo the brake system. Can a series II system be
modified to work for the series 1? And, is it better to stay with the
original master cylinder set up or should I try something a little
different (maybe with a small reservoir)?

Cheers,
Christopher Dillard           Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc)
95 Discovery V8i (Rusty II)        cdillard@aholdusa.com
55 Series I    (???)                     Greenville, SC USA
55 Series I (The Green Hornet)
SoLaRos #136

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:18:51 EST
Subject: Overdrive assembly lubrication question

Hi all,

It was pointed out to me that there has been a previous discussion on whether
to use a Molybdeum based grease for assembly (Molylube) or 90 wt.  When I
placed the Santana unit on I wiped off the inner sleeve (particulate matter)
and filled the inner sleeve with 90wt, smeared it around and then assembled
it.  

What is (are) the standard wisdoms concerning this?

Nate

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:22:07 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive assembly lubrication question

Re: Moly coating:

What was recommended to me was to renew the anti-scuff coating (what an odd
term!) with the molybdenum grease used in CV joints (a whitish paste). This I
was told was an extreme high-pressure grease that would help counteract the
running friction and prevent wear to the splines of the clutch.

It's available in pouches cheaply from most auto stores. I packed the roller
bearing on the clutch with it as well as lubricating the cup and the inside of
the drive gear.

                    ajr

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 07:28:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative??

Thats very interesting Joseph - do you know how to contact them?  Ray

----------
> From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative??
> Date: Tuesday, October 27, 1998 8:00 PM
> >As an alternative to the standard overdrive for LR's, Four Wheel Drives

in
> >Oz currently offer a replacement gearset for the transfer case. Leaves
low
> >ratio the same, raises high ratio by about 20%, has the big advantage of
> >leaving the PTO area at the rear of the transfer case free. Cost is $800
AUD.
> I think that with the demise of the Fairey/Superwinch OD one of these
kits
> would be a big seller here in the States. Perhaps in a variety of ratios.
> 15-20% sounds about right, but I'm afraid Ashcroft's 30% or so might
leave

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From: lndrvr@ldd.net (BRIAN WILLOUGHBY)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:26:21 -0600
Subject: Station Wagons & Hardtops

So...we're debating what constitutes a "Station Wagon" again.  I don't
think anyone has mentioned this feature yet:  the back seats.  88-inch SWs
should have the individually folding jumps seats; HTs have either no seats
or the standard, fixed bench seat.  The 109s confuse things a bit since
they were all equipped with rear bench seats (yes, both 10 and 12
passenger).   I've checked this against my "Land-Rover Series II and IIA
Parts Catalogue for Petrol and Diesel Models"  (The Rover Company Limited,
Solihull, Warwickshire, England, Technical Publication TP365A, Part No.
4656, July 1964).  I believe the same holds true for Series III models in
regard to the seats.  

Well, that's my contribution to the mass confusion.

Brian Willoughby
1960 Land-Rover Series II 88" S.W. "The Lady Eleanor"

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:23:08 -0500
Subject: Lucas electrics

Art wrote:
> This includes the Lucas starter, generator, and alternator divisions but
>NOT aerospace (which in itself is a scary thought! 

About three or four years ago, someone with firsthand knowledge at Lucas
Aerospace posted a story about a new torpedo they developed that tried to
*fly*.  ROFL stuff, really....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:22:09 -0600
Subject: RE: Brake fluid choices

> In my request for the demise of Lucas jokes I was reflecting the fact I
>have had generally good service from Lucas elecetric and generally bad
>service from Japanese built stuff and when repair or replacement is
>needed just ask which I would rather pay for!!.
>     John and Muddy

This is where regional differences show off. I would prefer a 1000 times to
replace or repair a jap alternator or starter than a brit one. Just plain
economics. BUT I live some thousands of Km away from most of you. :-)

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:23:09 -0500
Subject: Series III

"K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com> wrote:

>I don't know if any Series III Station Wagons were imported prior to
>1973. The only true Station Wagons I personally have seen in the US have
>been Series IIas, although lots of owners have added sliding rear
>windows, tropical roofs, Alpine windows, and roof vents....

Mine (built 5/72, delivered 10/72) was described as a "station wagon"
though it does not have the alpine windows.  My only option was the
tropical roof.  Apparently, the bonnet-mounted spare was standard in '72.

Sitting next to me is the club library that has a handful of Series III
sales brocures.  It is undated, but the vehicle appears to be a '72 (still
has the push/turn window catches and the icons on the dash switches appear
to be the '72 ones as opposed to the '73 and later.  However, it refers to
the vehicle as a '73 "Deluxe hardtop" and specifically mentions the
redisigned dash indicators.  It lists:

"Factory installed options: Front lifting and towing rings, Tropical roof,
Spare wheel carrier on hood, Folding side steps (2), Sun visors (2), Engine
speed control, Locking hasp for hood."

"Dealer-installed options: Free-wheeling front hubs, Electric winch, Snow
plow."

I've got a few of these available.  So if you are an *original* owner, send
me your address (to the one in the sig.block below) and a buck for postage
and I'll drop it in the mail.  These are new 'cept where Bill Kloc's dog
Ace kinda chewed on one corner a bit.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Leger Marc-Andre <mleger@wefa.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:48:05 -0500
Subject: A drive through the Pines...

Well I took the "new and improved" Lightweight for it's first Off-Road trip
since it came out of the shop. For those of you who may of mist my posts on
the restoration, I had my '71 SIIa Lightweight taken apart and reassembled
to get painted and tweaked...

So with the help of Frank Jacobsen and Brian Cramer, I was joined by Gabor
Antalics for a run through the Pine Barrens !

WOW !

What you can acheive in a 30 year old Land Rover is amazing, I went up hill
I never tought I would... and then down some others, across ponds... Only
got the Distributor cap wet a few times !!! So except for a few things to
tweek, the Lightweight runs great... Maybe it's the D90 I should sell, not
this one... if I added an Overdrive, it would be a pretty close call ! Can't
wait to get the pictures from the run !
             / ,            |                        |
        /\  \|/  /\         | Marc-Andre Leger        |
        |\\_;=._//|         | Network Eng.             |
         \."   "./          | WEFA inc.                |
         //^\ /^\\          | 800 Baldwin Tower        |
  .'``",/ |0| |0| \,"``'.   | Eddystone Pennsylvania   |
 /   ,  `'\.---./'`  ,   \  | USA                      |
/`  /`\,."(     )".,/`\  `\ | 19022                    |
/`     ( '.'-.-'.' )     `\ | (610) 490-2763           |
/"`     "._  :  _."     `"\ | mailto:ma.leger@wefa.com |
 `/.'`"=.,_``=``_,.="`'.\`  | http://www.wefa.com      |
           )   (            |                         |
 My roomate Tigger (the cat)|________________________|

"Anyone who has never made a mistake has never tried anything new."  Albert
Einstein  

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 08:49:52 -0700
Subject: Re: Series III

"Sandy",
That has been my understanding. That the dealerships in the early '70's were
selling 88's that purists might not classify as "station wagons" as such. The
vehicle you described is/was mine to a T.

Have you heard anything regarding the fact that a large percentage of the '72,
'73 88's came over in blue with white due to a cancled Belgium army order? And
that this also confused the issue of station wagon v. hard-top.

Sincerely,
K. John Wood
Solihull Society- Pres
'79 SIII 109 D ,
96 Disco

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:00:30 -0600
Subject: New Rovers Sighting

Yesterday, for work related matters (not pleasent, by the way), I had to go
to a customs yard, where they parked new cars comming in.
And guess what? They had a new shipment of Rover cars parked there.

About 40 Rover cars (various models) and a lot of Land Rovers too. I had my
first contact with the Freeloader (about 15 of them). Nice little Jap-like
truck. Many Discos, many MKIIs (about 15) and shinning among them, well,
maybe to be correct I must say: "and among them the only one that didn't
shine" there it was a Camel Trophy Disco. It had all its gear up on the roof
and it looked as it had come from the jungle. It was missing the rear right
glass, and it had the right sill and doors all crunched.
I was a very nice view. I couldn't figure out where it was used. It said it
nowhere, nor it had any docs with it.
I had to be brought out of there.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 10:22:39 -0600
Subject: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

Now that I have all my bushings, all the oil seals, almost all the roller
bearings, ball joints, oils, grease packed swivels,  swivel pins, all new
and installed, I began hearing new noises.  I guess they where hidden under
all the rest.
A big clunk noise on the drive train was very evident. I crawled under to
check the rear drive shaft. I moved it to see if the u-joints (?) where the
cause, but no, they where perfectly ok.

BUT, and this is the mystery part for me, I was able to rotate the drive
shaft more than half a turn before getting any movement on the diff. I found
there my cluck.

I asked a mech. about it and he told me that it was due to excessive wear of
the diff. Somehow I cant swallow that. If I get excessive wear on pinnions
that work together I dont see how I can get that much movement.
Is it that I'm just dumb not to understand it? Where can the problem be?
I certainly dont want to began searching for a diff.

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 98 08:34:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative??

>As an alternative to the standard overdrive for LR's, Four Wheel Drives in
>Oz currently offer a replacement gearset for the transfer case. Leaves low
>ratio the same, raises high ratio by about 20%, has the big advantage of
;>leaving the PTO area at the rear of the transfer case free. Cost is 
$800 AUD.
;>Cheers,

That is probably an acceptable solution for people who primarily drive in 
flatish areas.  It would be approximatly equivlent to having an OD in hi 
whenever the transfer case is in high range.

Those of us who drive mostly in mountains, especially at altitiude where 
the engine produces less HP would find ourselves double clutching down to 
second gear frequently and maybe even forgetting that we have a fourth 
gear.

I think that the Rover engineers designed the transfer case high ratio to 
be lower that 1:1 beca^Ause the stock engine does not put out enough power 
to handle many driving conditions.

A 1:1 hi range transfer case gear would make more sense with a higher 
powered engine transplant.

Another option would be a stock LR transfer case behind a five speed 
transmission that has an OD fifth gear.  I think that this would make 
more sense with the stock engine.

TeriAnn Wakeman                       The Green Rover, rebuilt and
Santa Cruz, California                and maintained using parts from
twakeman@cruzers.com                  British Pacific 800-554-4133
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman      

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Ian Stuart <Ian.Stuart@ed.ac.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:42:15 +0000
Subject: Re: Heater switch wiring....

rovah@agate.net wrote:

> the kit.  Any ideas what I might need to do to hook it up?  Someone
> mentioned to me that I might need to remove the resistor on the switch
> prior to hooking it up?  The original switch has two connections on it-any
> easy way to tell which lead to the blower goes where?

Well,

One of the three green leads will be +12V
Short one, then the other of the two wires to the 12V feed and see which
one makes the fan blow more - this is the wire without the resistor.

-- 
Ian Stuart
Computing Services
The University of Edinburgh

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:47:42 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas humor:

Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com wrote:
> John,
> No disrespect intended, but Lucas iron deserves a lot of the bad press it 
gets -
> but not all by a long shot.
> >From the Battle of Britain where Hurricane pilots would lose their electrical
> systems by rolling their aircraft in a certain manner (thereby leaving the 
plane
> helpless as the guns were electrically fired) all the way to the debacle of

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 61 lines)]
> I will take 10 Lucas bits over one Bosch - at least I can fix it when it needs
> to be fixed.
 1983 Japanese built tractor 30 amp alternator fails 1 month after the
years warrenty. Cost to repair $ 480, cost to replace $ 720.
 Delco too big to fit I fitted a Lucas 16acr. After 10 years I had to
replace the rectifier cost $12.
1978 Italian built tractor Bosch alternator fails after 5years parts no
longer available Replaced with Delco which also failed after 5 years but
parts are readily available and cheap. Same tractor fitted with Bosch
fuse box in 2 years was totally unusable, fitted in line fuses.
There many thousands of Ford, Massey Ferguson, International and David
Brown tractors around the world all with Lucas systems that are 30 years
old and still going strong.
1997 Chev S10 pick up    3 computers and 2 Instrument clusters due to a
faulty Bulkhead connector Total cost to warrenty $4000 and climbing.
John and Muddy
PS why do American drink their beer Ice Cold? To numb their taste buds.

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From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:54:30 -0800
Subject: resend: Indignant Re: Brake fluid choices

That was a serious question.  I know that Lucas owns / = Girling.  I want a
serious answer about the merits of the two available fluids that are
appropriate for my brake system.  In the world of lubricants, Castrol is
considered superior to OEM fluids that might come in your new engine, and I
want someone's educated opinion of Castrol's LMA Brake fluid.  

Sorry to pain you so with a little Lucas humor (do you own stock?). :^)

Todd

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:51:37 -0400
Subject: Re: Lucas electrics

A. P. "Sandy" Grice wrote:
> Art wrote:
> > This includes the Lucas starter, generator, and alternator divisions but
> >NOT aerospace (which in itself is a scary thought!
> About three or four years ago, someone with firsthand knowledge at Lucas
> Aerospace posted a story about a new torpedo they developed that tried to
> *fly*.  ROFL stuff, really....  Cheers

 Meanwhile NASA has a totally unblemished design record with their
attempt to use rubber O rings as exhaust seals. That would be funny if
it was so tragic.
   John and Muddy

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From: Lodelane@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 11:59:19 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive assembly lubrication question

Nate,

Like Al, I've been using CV joint grease.  As the "splash" lubrication of the
sleeve clutch assy looks to be minimal in use, I think the moly will provide
the lube necessary (and wash out with 90 wt if it does splash lube).  Also I
pull the OD annually and relube.

Larry Smith
Chester, VA

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From: ggg@mediaone.net (Gerald)
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 17:03:01 GMT
Subject: Re: Series III tub removal

After a discussion with Alan Richer we concluded that the vehicle was
assembled incorrectly - oh all right, differently. I will have to
grind off the bolts. I guess gas tank removal comes before since it is
so close.

On Tue, 27 Oct 1998 10:23:55 +0100, you wrote:

>I guess the plates must have rusted solid to the aluminium, I have 
>used an electric welder to melt down the steel of bolts in these kind 
>of situations, look out for fire hazard, your petrol tank may be 
>quite close...............

--
Gerald
ggg@mediaone.net

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From: "Dr. Russ" <rgdushin@blackcat.cat.syr.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:05:18 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Lucas/Girling vs. Castrol LMA

seems yesterday someone asked about Lucas brake fluid (presumably
the closest thing on earth to "Girling Crimson") and Castrol LMA
but I don't think the question was addressed.

Surely, some purists would argue that you should be using the
Lucas stuff, but others like myself would swear by the Castrol
LMA...primarily because it works (and won't rot your seals like
just about everything else) AND it's more or less readily
available *unlike* this Lucas stuff.  Only other alternative
would be to go with silicone (less hygroscopic) but that'll
probably leave you with a (even more) spongy pedal feel.

Consider that you should, at the least, flush and bleed your
brake system once a year (I try to do it twice, in Spring and
Fall).  RN may be your only supplier of this Lucas stuff (I
don't know of any other source in the US but Moss and/or
Victoria British probably sell it, too) and when they run out...

rd/nige

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:16:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Lucas humor:

John details dozens of examples of Lucas having a good rap:

I completely agree. As I was discussing not-too-long ago with a friend of mine,
the joy of Lucas bits is that they can usually be put back in service when they
do fail - without special tools.

You'll get no argument from me on it - this is why, other than a few relays and
the GM alternator, my electrical system in Mr. C. is still all Lucas. I wasn't
twitting the repairability or reliability - just the quirkiness of the designs.
Some of them are outright bad (like the Rangie fusebox), but others are simply
British - with all that entails....8*)

I have seen Lucas bits do some entertaining things, though....

               aj"Pardon the typos - 3 fingers taped together..."r

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From: ac21209@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:25:33 -0500
Subject: SUBSCRIBE

SUBSCRIBE

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From: Zaxcoinc@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 12:26:55 EST
Subject: Re: Series 1 Update (question)

In a message dated 10/28/98 6:18:20 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cdillard@Aholdusa.com writes:

<<  also noticed, after fixing the battery, that when I hit the started and
 the engine turned over that I was getting some sparks flying from the
 generator. Is this normal?  >>

Although sparks from the generator are not normal, (see the ghost of joe lucas
threads) what you describe could easily be the result of rust bits and crap
floating around the commutator.  it is not really too bad, but cleaning up
will reduce or eliminate the problem.

Zack Arbios

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From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 09:50:10 -0500
Subject: re: Lucas humor:

<< rang^H^H^H^HAlan's tale of Lucas woes snipped>>

Every electrical problem I have had with my Land-Rover has been related to
the connections or a switch.  My most recent Lucas troubles were with the
left hand turn signals.  Saturday night, I noticed that the left rear turn
signal was blinking, despite the car being parked, and the ignition off.  I
discovered that the bullet connector where the wires pass through the left
wing had gone missing, which is why the front light didn't work.  I fiddled
with the hazard light switch, and the blinking stopped.  I left it at that,
as it was saturday night, I was visiting with friends I hadn't seen in ages,
and there was whisky to be consumed.  Flash forward to Sunday night, I have
been on the road for 14 hours and 700 miles, and am 200 feet from home, when
the local constulabry take an interest in me.  The cop asks if I know why he
stopped me.  I don't, of course.  It is because I failed to use my left turn
signal.  I had, in fact, not failed to use my left turn signal.  My left
turn signal had failed to work.  

David /mr sinclair.
-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 13:08:24 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative??

>That's very interesting Joseph - do you know how to contact them?  Ray

Sorry, I wasn't the original poster. Perhaps when our friends in Oz wake up
they'll fill us in. Who knows what time (or day, for that matter!) it is
down there. Ashcroft (http://www.autoconv.com) has made his 30% high range
gears for several years, but I agree with Terriann that this is too much
for the stock engine. I suppose another possible alternative to OD's would
be slightly lower diff gearing (4.3 or 3.9 maybe). I believe a company
called KAM makes all sorts of ratios for Rover axles. Then, to get your
low-range back to stock (assuming you have a IIa or III box) build up your
transfer case with the lower low-range gears from a Suffix "C" box. Any
thoughts on this idea? Any of these solutions give two other added
benefits: 1) a tougher all round box w/o the fragile OD on the back and 2)
use of the rear PTO. Just trying to deal with the post-OD world. Thanks for
listening...

-joseph and sidney (8 year old Fairey OD still going strong)

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:13:41 -0500
Subject: Mansfield 4X4

Anyone (here in the US) ever ordered parts from Masnfield? If so what was
your experience?

PS also, what is th URL for the currency conversion?

Cheers,
Christopher Dillard           Ahold USA (BI-LO Inc)
95 Discovery V8i (Rusty II)        cdillard@aholdusa.com
55 Series I    (???)                     Greenville, SC USA
55 Series I (The Green Hornet)
SoLaRos #136

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From: "Adams, Bill" <badams@usia.gov>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:32:27 -0500
Subject: Re: Overdrive assembly lubrication question

I don't think it really matters. 

Bill Adams
3D Artist/Animator
'69 Buick LeSabre Ragtop
'66 Land Rover S2A 109 Diesel Station Wagon,
'81 Honda Goldwing 1100 Standard:
"Practicing the ancient oriental art of ren-ching"

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From: dbobeck@ushmm.org
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 98 08:49:04 -0500
Subject: Re: My driving record 

>Anyone know if I can just anchor the top part of the belt to the vertical part 
>of the T-piece on the 109SW, say, about a foot above my left shoulder?

Bill
I think there are LR belts that mount there. just make asre that the t-pieces 
are sound, and properly attached to the roof. Also don't just use a bolt, ask 
around to see if there is a bracket , or have a nut welded to the pillar or 
something like that. If you are going to run a soft top then you will need to 
brace the t-pieces in all directions, to keep them frm bending forward or back, 
or in toward each other. 

drive fast, take chances...
dave

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From: andy Smith <andy@bobstar.demon.co.uk>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:30:57 +0000
Subject: Re: The Gods Must be Crazy

In message <bulk.9206.19981027145314@Land-Rover.Team.Net>,
Frankelson@aol.com writes
>etc.
>BTW anyone who hasn't seen it, my friends son bought it for him from a video
>shop, it was on catalogue, they ordered it new.......

Can someone please post the catalogue number so those of us who have
never heard of this flim(me), can order it .

-- 
andy Smith
1965 ser2a V8 swb ccv/road
1971 ser2a 2.25P swb road
Tamworth Staffs.

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:26:02 -0700
Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative??

>for the stock engine. I suppose another possible alternative to OD's would
>be slightly lower diff gearing (4.3 or 3.9 maybe). I believe a company
             ^^^^^
Sorry, should read "higher diff gearing"

-joseph

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:18:19 EST
Subject: My driving record--a correction

Not to be outdone by the likes of Pat, I will confess to one more mishap,
which was really just a clearance modification.  

At the Down East in 96, they had that log bridge and then a left hand turn
right after it.  Almost all 88's were having to back up to make this turn.  I
thought I could make it, and was right, and not I could make same turn without
even hitting my bumper, as it's not quite so in the way now.

Bill

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:18:13 EST
Subject: 109SW seatbelt anchors

DaveB said:
"Make sure the t-pieces are sound and properly attached to the roof."

OHHH, I get it.  The roof is supposed to be ATTACHED?  Maybe that's why I get
soaked every time I turn left after a good hard rain.

Bill "I wondered if something went in those holes" Rice

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 20:25:34 -0400
Subject: Re: My driving record--a correction

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:
> Not to be outdone by the likes of Pat, I will confess to one more mishap,
> which was really just a clearance modification.
> At the Down East in 96, they had that log bridge and then a left hand turn
> right after it.  Almost all 88's were having to back up to make this turn.  I
> thought I could make it, and was right, and not I could make same turn without
> even hitting my bumper, as it's not quite so in the way now.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> even hitting my bumper, as it's not quite so in the way now.
> Bill
It was an achievement not to fall off the bridge, a good many did and
had to be rescued with winch or high lift jack.
   John and Muddy

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From: "Scheidt, David, NPG" <dscheidt@att.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:30:40 -0500
Subject:  Re: Overdrive alternative??

Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu> writes:
<< stuff about the Superwinch overdrive not being available anymore>>

Did I miss something?  Is the OD truly no longer available?  When did this
happen?  The OD fitted to Mr. Sinclair is making truly nasty whines, and I
was planning on replacing it shortly.  I don't think I can drive a series
land-Rover on the highway without an overdrive.

David

-- 
David Scheidt, IMO Customer Care dscheidt@att.com
480 Red Hill Rd 1k217, Middletown NJ 07748
(v) +1 (732) 615-2888 (f) +1 (732) 615-2597

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:40:27 -0800
Subject: Re: disco vs. range

From: "Emil King" <ewader@hotmail.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 07:15:29 PST
Subject: disco vs. range

>Is there anyone w/ a page or info. regarding a size comparison of a 
rangie vs. a disco or d90. i'd like to know things like headroom, 
legroom, cargo space, ground clearance, articulation, engine size, etc. 
All this in relation to an 60, 80 or 100 series LC, a Navigator, or 
Expedition. Thanks for your help in helping me to resolve a petty 
argument!

You can probably get the dimensional information you want from the Land
Rover North America web site or the offical Land Rover site.

What you ask used to be pretty easy to answer, as the Discovery and Range
Rover (classic) shared the same 100-inch wheelbase, chassis, and running
gear.  The Discovery has more headroom than a Range Rover classic, however.
In the US, all Land Rover vehicles (the new batch, not the Series vehicles
from the '60s and '70s) use the same engine, the 3.9 V-8.  The new models
call it a 4.0, but I believe in reality it is still 3.9 litres.  There is
also a 4.6 version of the engine available in the new Range Rover.

The ground clearance of the Range Rover classic, Discovery, and D90 is
potentially the same; it really boils down to what size tires you use.
Articulation is greatest on the Defender simply because the body is designed
to allow it.  It is least on a Discovery because of the fairly tight
wheel-well cutouts.  There also is a difference in the spring rates, with
the D90 having the "hardest" springs, and the Range Rover classic having the
softest.  The new Range Rover's air suspension is a whole different kettle
of fish, and I do not have the hands-on experience to compare its suspension
to the coil-spring vehicles.

The D90 has the least body overhang front and rear, making it the best for
off-road work.  The overhang of the Discovery and Range Rover is not bad at
the front (if you remove the spoiler) but it is considerable at the back.

The new Range Rover (and new Discovery) have 110-inch wheelbases.  In the
case of the Range Rover, the extra length went into the space between the
front and rear seats and a bit into the cargo area.  In the case of the new
Discovery, I believe all the stretch went into the cargo area.  However, it
appears that the new Discovery still has the edge over the new Range Rover
in terms of headroom, particularly in the back.

However, I believe none of the currently available US-spec Land Rover
products, which today means just the Discovery and Range Rover, come very
close to the Land Cruiser/Lexus or Expedition/Navigator in terms of useable
interior room.  The off-road capabilities of the two Land Rover models are
better than, the same as, or slightly less than the Land Cruiser/Lexus
depending on your loyalties (I think they're better myself), but they are
definitely better than the Expedition/Navigator.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:46:12 -0800
Subject: Re: Brake fluid choices

From: Todd Schlemmer <nullman@ptinet.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 03:58:58 -0800
Subject: Brake fluid choices

>I am gonna bleed/flush the brakes this week.  I have the option of using
either Lucas DOT 4 (A La RN) or Castrol LMA (viva la NAPA) brake fluid.
My inclination is to eschew anything labeled Lucas and embrace the Castrol.

For what it's worth, I have always used Castrol LMA in my 1973 Series III,
and in 25 years have never had a fluid-related problem.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: "Faure, Marin" <Marin.Faure@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 16:54:02 -0800
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop

From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 19:21:46 -0700
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop

>I would warn you about only one thing. I've found out the hard way that the
12v.
plug-ins on the dash can be a catastrophe waiting to happen. They are a full
current poistive and a dead straight ground.(red and black respectively).
The
only thing that sepperates these two points on the back of the plug unit is
a
slight bit of paper. I've lost two entire dash wire harnesses due to these
littel things.

Thanks for the warning.  Way back in 1977 the speedometer in my Series III
died a violent death during a 6-week trip in the Yukon Territories.  Since I
figured it was pointless to be reminded how slow I was going, I built a new
instrument panel from a piece of aircraft aluminum and replaced the dead
speedometer with a tachometer and a manifold pressure gauge, two instruments
I find much more useful.  In the course of doing this, I moved the 12-V
sockets to the side of the instrument box, but for the life of me I can't
remember if or how I insulated them from each other.  Your message is a good
reason to unscrew the panel and find out if I did it intelligently or not.
Thanks again.

__________________
C. Marin Faure
faurecm@halcyon.com
marin.faure@boeing.com
  (original owner)
  1973 Land Rover Series III-88
  1991 Range Rover Vogue SE

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:24:01 EST
Subject: Overdrive alternative?? Santana (possibly)

In a message dated 10/28/98 7:39:03 PM Eastern Standard Time, dscheidt@att.com
writes:

<< Did I miss something?  Is the OD truly no longer available?  When did this
 happen?  The OD fitted to Mr. Sinclair is making truly nasty whines, and I
 was planning on replacing it shortly.  I don't think I can drive a series
 land-Rover on the highway without an overdrive.
  >>

Superwinch OD's are going, going, (gone).  However, Paul Heijstee is getting
Santana ODs.  There are two guys who are distributors here in the USA.  Frank
Jakos at Concours Cars in Colorado Springs and Bill Something or Other at
Great Basin Rovers in Montana.  So far, supply has been a problem but they are
working hard to get the process geared up.  They are about 1/3 more expensive
but are much larger units and reportedly the bearings, gears and shafts are
generally LR stock.  My guess is they will become the replacement for
Superwinch.

Nate

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:28:27 EST
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop/ Aircraft Aluminum?

In a message dated 10/28/98 9:23:20 PM, you wrote:

<<I built a new
instrument panel from a piece of aircraft aluminum>>

What's the difference between: that, boat aluminum, LR aluminum and tin
(aluminum) foil? Will it last longer? Is it lighter? 

I ask only because I see so many references to "aircraft" this or that, and in
many cases, the advertised thing isn't even certified or up to aircraft-spec.
Is there some tell-tale marking or spec to look for?

(I'm not doubting you or your piece of aluminum, as we know you'd use it given
your job, etc.)

Just curious...

--pat.

ps: Wouldn't it be neat if Land Rovers were delivered "green*" and then we
could choose our paint schemes, interiors and instrumentation to suit our
intended uses?? Just like a G-IVsp...

*delivered green is basically in primer with no interior etc.

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:42:20 -0700
Subject: re: instrument panel acc plugs

Yeah, when I rewired Sid, I decided to do without the accessory plugs. I
had many a spark show trying to cobble the PO's wiring together on cold
nights. To make matters worse, he was getting power for the headlights from
the positive accessory plug terminal. Many a blown fuse and dark drive home
before I figured out this wasn't Rover's idea. I ran the new harnesses
accessory p lug lead to a little 4-fuse block on the bulkhead and now just
wire accessories through it. I think every series owner should take a good
look at those plug connections and reinsulate them. Series Rovers are rare
enough, we don't need any going up in smoke (literally)!

-joseph and sidney
missoula, mt

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 21:45:37 EST
Subject: Re: Mansfield 4X4

In a message dated 10/28/98 2:16:18 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
cdillard@Aholdusa.com writes:

<< Anyone (here in the US) ever ordered parts from Masnfield? If so what was
 your experience?
 
 PS also, what is th URL for the currency conversion? >>

http://quote.yahoo.com/m5?a=25&s=ZAR&t=USD

Hope this helps....
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: Jon.McDowell@gecits-ap.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 13:48:04 +1000
Subject: Removal of Cab rear window

G'day folks since I haven't had any success on the Australian list I
thought I would try here,

I managed to pick up a cab for my 1950 80 S1 from a farmer's car graveyard
for $50 so I'm not complaining but...

I am trying to remove the rear windows which are opaque.  The book says
they are held on by screws through the channel.
I have removed two screws at the ends of the channel but still can't get
the channel and the windows out.  I was going to revert to the standard
response - brute force - but since it is all aluminium I figure I could do
considerable damage.

Does anyone know if there are more than two screws (I have managed to free
the ends but not the middle) and whether there is an easy way to dislodge
the channel and windows?

I did also want to gloat over my find for $50 (I was quoted $400 for the
cab at a second hand dealer and $600+ for a canvas top!) the farmer was
more than happy and I was giggling all the way home.

Jon
jon.mcdowell@gecits-ap.com

ps: I only subscribe to the digest so I'll wait patiently

GE Capital IT Solutions
This email is confidential. If you are not the intended recipient,
you must not disclose or use the information contained in it.
If you have received this mail in error, please tell us
immediately by return email and delete the document.

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From: Jeremy Bartlett <bartlett@slip.net>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:08:00 -0800
Subject: Re: Lucas/Girling vs. Castrol LMA

Dr. Russ wrote:

> Only other alternative
> would be to go with silicone (less hygroscopic) but that'll
> probably leave you with a (even more) spongy pedal feel.

One of the other disadvantages of silicone is that because it doesn't absorb
as
much water, mroe water will be present in the lines to cause corrosion.

Jeremy

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From: "Clayton Kirkwood" <kirkwood@garlic.com>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 19:18:45 -0800
Subject: RE: Lucas/Girling vs. Castrol LMA

Most of the various (BMC) mail lists I belong to bring this up from
time to time. Some say any DOT3 or DOT4 will do. Some like DOT5 -
silicone based. But most folks end up playing it safe with Castrol LMA
which nobody has every complained about AFAIK. I use LMA in all of my
vehicles.

AFA DOT5, most of what I have heard (no experience) is that while less
hydroscopic, it tends to hold air bubbles more and causes soft pedal
syndrome (SPS), although a newer formulation supposedly helps. What
comes to my mind is that if the DOT5 in less hydroscopic it won't
"mix" with the water that enevitably gets into brake systems. This is
good and bad but I'd say mostly bad. Good because what water is close
to the brake itself won't boil causing soft pedal. Bad because that
means the water is separate which now can more easily cause
corrosion/rust.

Clayton Kirkwood
(916) 663-2368
kirkwood@garlic.com

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From: Don <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 07:53:09 -0700
Subject: Re: Freeplay on Drive-shaft

Luis, 
	The play in your driveshaft/diff. could be a badly worn pinion and
crown gears and another possibility is a pinion bearing that needs
shimming. Check that the pinion nut hasn't come loose. I've had this
happen (not on a Rover) and the problem wasn't immediately visible as
the pinion shaft pulled itself back into the housing. My suggestion is
to remove the drive shaft from the pinion shaft and check there for
sloppiness and fore and aft end play. Replacing pinion bearings, as with
a differential, is a job that requires specialized knowledge and
experience so, if you've never done this, don't try it at home. But, on
the other hand, lots of hobby mechanics and back-yarders are quite
competent at setting up differentials and will do the job a lot cheaper
than say, a dealership mechanic.

Good Luck!

Cheers,
Don Fee  

1968 series IIA 88"  (our DandY Landy)
1967 series IIA 109" s/w Safari

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 23:50:39 EST
Subject: Re: Brake fluid choices

In a message dated 98-10-28 08:05:39 EST, you write:

  In my request for the demise of Lucas jokes I was reflecting the fact I
 have had generally good service from Lucas elecetric and generally bad
 service from Japanese built stuff and when repair or replacement is
 needed just ask which I would rather pay for!!.
      John and Muddy
   * >>
I agree whole heartedly. When something doesn't work on my Landie I know I can
fix it. When something goes wrong with my boy's Toy I freak because I know
that the parts will generally be expensive and some operations are not to be
attempted by an amatuer. Currently his Paseo has a thump in the front
suspension that we have traced to a perished suspension bushing. To replace
the bushing we have to replace the entire suspension arm. Cost $150
uninstalled and if I were not foolish enough to work on the thing myself
probably another $60-$100 in labor. If I'm not mistaken I can replace all of
the suspension bushings in my Range Rover for $150 and it doesn't take any
special skill (a fortunate circumstance for me.) I have owned a japanese car
and run it into the ground. I have worked on that car to the extent of
rebuilding the 5 speed transaxle. While I marvel at the design, the execution
and the fit of the mechanical components I never enjoyed working on the car
because it was just too damned difficult. If you don't work on your car a
japanese car will be very pleasing, but if you have to do anything to it it's
a nightmare. 

The reason Lucas has a bad reputation in this country is due to the fact that
most of the British cars which were imported to this country in the earlier
days ended up being maintained by gas station (read shade tree) mechanics who
were trained on Ford, Chrysler or GM vehicles and who could not cope with
anything different. You also have to admit that indifferent quality control
during the 70s did not help either although they were not the only firm
affected they already had the reputation. 

All of that said I think Lucas jokes are here to stay, They are just too much
fun. 

Later.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 00:23:03 EST
Subject: Re: Lucas humor:

In a message dated 98-10-28 11:50:10 EST, you write:

<< PS why do American drink their beer Ice Cold? To numb their taste buds >>
Amen! And since you mention it I think I here my last Guinness calling.

Bill Lawrence

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From: Scott Wilson <scott@scratchstudio.com>
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 00:36:15 -0000
Subject: RE: The Gods Must be Crazy

> Can someone please post the catalogue number so those of us who have
> never heard of this flim(me), can order it .

For those of you in the states, try www.reel.com dunno about people
anywhere else... 

-Scott

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:00:32 EST
Subject: Re: Overdrive alternative?? Santana (possibly)

Speaking of Frank Jakos, is there anyone on the list from Sollihul Society?

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 01:29:19 EST
Subject: Re: Lucas/Girling vs. Castrol LMA

In a message dated 98-10-28 22:06:25 EST, you write:

<< One of the other disadvantages of silicone is that because it doesn't
absorb
 as
 much water, mroe water will be present in the lines to cause corrosion.
 
 Jeremy
  >>
I've heard this argument before but I am not convinced. The US Army uses
silicon brake fluid exclusively in thousands of vehicles which may sit for
years in storage and need to be operational in a few hours. The advantage is
that the brake systems do not degrade over time as would happen with the
alcohol/glycerine based fluids. I have never heard of a case of localized
corrosion in a silicon filled system. 

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Wed, 28 Oct 1998 22:09:56
Subject: Re: Socket size of the hand crank starter dog nut.

	I'm in the process of installing my spare 2.25l 5 main engine in my 88 
and
need to remove the crank pulley.  Need the socket size of the hand crank
dog nut.  Got ahead of myself and installed the nut a couple of years ago
but forgot to put on the generator mounting bracket.  Looks like I took it
off with a chisel but I'm more sophisticated now.
Maholo in advance Peter

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 1998 06:50:02 -0500
Subject: Re: Removal of Cab rear window

First off, congratulations! At A$50 that's a great find.

Secondly, yes there are more than 2 screws. The window channels in the rear
window of a pickup cab are the same setup as the sliding windows on your front
doors - several screws spaced down the track.

The best way to get them out is to rip the felt out of the track so you can see
the little bleeders - this means destroying the track, but it's inexpensive and
if the window is perished the tracking most certainly will be rotted also.

You'll need 2 8-foot lengths to redo the tracking - one for the inside window,
one for the outside.

Should you really wish to keep the tracking, scrape your screwdriver along the
bottom of the track hard enough to depress the felt. You should feel it when the
screwdriver runs into the screw heads.

                              Alan R. / Boston, MA.

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