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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:14:45 -0600
Subject: RE: spin on oil filters

>on the 4.0 engine in the Disco, I use PH-8A on both.  Bigger is better,

right?
>on the 4.0 engine in the Disco, I use PH-8A on both.  Bigger is better,

Isn't it true that using a larger-than-standard oil filter you bring oil
pressure down?

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:39:18 -0500
Subject: RE: spin on oil filters

Luis asks:

>Isn't it true that using a larger-than-standard oil filter you bring oil
>pressure down?

Shouldn't - once the volume is full of oil there should be no appreciable
difference. The larger filter simply provides more filtering surface area.

               ajr

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From: "Chris Dillard" <cdillard@Aholdusa.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:33:32 -0500
Subject: RE: spin on oil filters

Speaking of Oil Filter !!! Has anyone tried a K &N "HighFlow" oil filter? I
was looking through an auto parts catalog yesterday and saw these and was
just curious.

Cheers,
Christopher D
95 disco
55 Ser 1  86"

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From: "Luis Manuel Gutierrez" <lgutierr@jccr.co.cr>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:51:58 -0600
Subject: RE: Ahoy the list!

>> That's not the worst, he want's a stereo in it too. And a working
>> SPEEDOMETER!? Is that possible?
>Hey!  I've found a good stereo is the best antidote to Rover noises.

Not only good, It sholud be powerfull to acomplish its task!!!!
:-}

Lic. LUIS MANUEL GUTIERREZ CHACON
Jose Cartellone Construcciones Civiles S.A.
E-mail: lgutierr@jccr.co.cr
Tel: (506) 296 2743
Fax: (506) 296 2744

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 10:31:56 -0500
Subject: Chargers

"Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> wrote:

>What type of trickle charger do you use?  I have seen solar ones as well as
>regualr AC plug in.

A little (3 amp) variable/automatic unit from J.C Whitless.  Plugs in with
a grounded cord.  (When I want to charge, the sun's not likely to be
around.)  The whole unit is sealed so it would work submerged in a pail of
water.  Battery heater (50 watts), charger and block heater plug into one
pigtail so there's just one cord dangling from the grille.  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 10:31:57 -0500
Subject: Servo woes

Bill Rice <Jarvis64@aol.com> wrote:

>Thanks for the info.  If I vacuum test the booster and it's faulty, will
>that repair kit some folks sell for about $25 be able to fix it?

If it's the diaphragm inside the servo, then no.  A "major" rebuild kit
hasn't been available over here since '77 or so.  The servo should be
rebuildable, though the factory manual says 'non-serviceable.'  One of
these days, I'm gonna pull apart an old one and see for sure.  The "minor"
service kit is a couple of seals and a filter.

>What's an easy to test for vacuum? 

Well, you could suck on the hose  (as the British would say "Suck it and
see.").  You should be able to pull a noticeable vacuum in a second or two.
 Any more than that, and the diaphragm is punctured.  Of course, if you
*don't* like inhaling residual fumes, most autoparts stores sell this
hand-held vacuum pump/gauge.  BTW, the nylon fitting is a one-way valve.
Good luck!

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: Vel Natarajan <vel@enteract.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:46:27 -0600
Subject: Re: Jacob's electronic ignition.

On Sun, Oct 25, 1998 at 11:06:53AM +0000, Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> Heard these guys advertising on some radio show so called.  Claim
> significant increase in horsepower and fuel mileage but short on details
> how it works other than hi tech computer control.  From their description,
> it seems to be a high voltage ignition that uses the stock points as a
> trigger and replaces the coil with their coil and computer module.  Quite
> pricey and seems to defy physics.  Anyone with any experience with this
> system.
> Aloha Peter

I've heard there's nothing special about them, and that their quality
control isn't that great, the real-life experiences fall well short of
their claims, and that they're expensive.  They advertise quite a bit
in Sport Compact Car and Turbo Magazine.  So I guess those H*nda
drivers must keep them in business trying to make their Civics go
faster...

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From: Keith Mohlenhoff <krm@nj.paradyne.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 12:02:12 -0500
Subject: Generator problem

Hello;

My charge light came on Friday night on the way home from work.
Saturday I followed the manual and had no output from the generator,
when measured at the leads by the voltage regulator.  Thought the
generator was kaput, ends up the F lead had no connnectivity. Replaced
the lead and all was fine.

Good thing it was the wire because my Voltage requlator does not look
like the ones in the manual.

My voltage regulator only has two coils and has RB106 stamped on the
side of the base of the unit. The cover has A|A1|F|D|E molded into it

The Rover is a 1971 IIA 88" sold in the US, headlights in the wings and
the big indicators

Any one have information on this? 

Keith R, Mohlenhoff
62 IIA 109 2.25D
71 IIa 88 2.25P
88 RR 3.5i

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 10:02:09 -0700
Subject: Re: SII Steering Box.

Hi Gang,

It's been my experience that the steering relay is filled through one of the
top ring retaining bolt holes. The steering box (located up the steering
shaft in the engine compartment) has a filling plug on the
top-side....However, I have never seen a drain plug on any of these units.

Yours'
K. John Wood
Solihull Society- Pres.

The Stockdales wrote:

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 10:14:07 -0700
Subject: Re: Station Wagon vs. Hardtop

Gerald,

This is how I understand the situation:
Hardtop- Fixed hard top with fixed one-piece side windows or no windows.
Stationwagon- Fixed hard top with sliding side windows, and +/-
"safari"windows,          and +/- safari roof skin.

However- I owned a '73 SIII 88" that had fixed hardtop, sliding side
windows, and came stock with the safari roof skin. I have been told that the
last two years of import to the US contained a large number of "off
standard" units due to a rejected/declined Belgium army order that Slohull
recieved in late '72.

Therefore, the question of weather a specific unit is a hardtop or station
wagon is probably better defined by interior trim, hardtop side window
setup, and the existence of "safri roof windows" with the second skin.

Yours'
K. John Wood
Solihull Society-Pres.

Gerald wrote:

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From: "K. John Wood" <jwrover@colo-net.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 10:19:54 -0700
Subject: Re: Master cylinder removal?

Don,
I've found that while most people will choose to remove the driver side wing
(US) to get at the clutch master....You don't have to troubel with that. I
have simply removed the inner mud guard from the fender. unbilted the clutch
assembly, and rotated the unit clockwise 45 degrees and slid it out under
the fender. You can then rebuild, and adjust it at the bench and reverse the
process.

Good Luck

K. John Wood
Solihull Society-Pres.

Don wrote:

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From: RichMan10@webtv.net (Matthew Jay B)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 13:30:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: submision

i wold like to submit dodgeramfan@yahoo.com on to your list.

                thanks

              Matthew  Jay   B.   
         (Richman10@webtv.net
                      or
         Dodgeramfan@yahoo.com)

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From: BEN_NIBALI@denso-diam.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 13:31:42 -0500
Subject: Did I kill my Speedo?

I completed a ground-up rewiring of my '65 88" last weekend.  I had
disconnected my speedometer cable at the back of the (perfectly
functioning) speedometer housing so that I could remove the dash panel, and
I screwed it back in tight before backing the vehicle out of the garage the
other day.  When I started rolling forward for the first time, I saw that
the speedometer needle was bouncing all over the place.  It wasn't just
jumping a little like the cable was pinched- it was flipping violently from
0 up to the peg and back.  In retrospect I should have stopped immediately
and disconnected it, but I was all excited to drive around for a while so I
did.

This was a  mistake, because by the time I got back home (about 2 miles of
driving) The speedo was pegged at 80 (which I assure you I did not achieve)
and no longer bouncing.  I pulled the dash panel and disconnected the
cable, and the needle didn't move.  I stuck a screwdriver in the back where
the cable plugs in and turned it and still no action.  I just hear a faint
scratching sound.

So I'm thinking that maybe when I screwed the cable back in I screwed it in
too far and the little square turning part hit the indicator or something
and tore it all up inside.  Does this sound plausible?  I've never had one
apart so I'm not real sure of the internal operation.  Would this be
rebuildable or is it toast?

Thanks,
Ben
Maryville, TN

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From: Alan_Richer@motorcity2.lotus.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 14:06:56 -0500
Subject: Re: Did I kill my Speedo?

Re: Dead speedo:

Sounds more likely that the return spring snapped.

What I'd do, were I you, is to pull it from the panel and take the mechanism out
of its case - see if any interesting bits fall out at the same time.

Seems to me like something may have taken up residence, and its corpse may be
stuck between the cup and magnet of the speedometer drive.

The way speedometers work is that the movement of the cable spins a magnet in a
metal cup - with no physical contact between either. As the magnet spins it
deflects the cup against a spring that is trying to hold it at 0. Thus, the
faster the magnet turns, the more deflection there is of the cup and the needle
goes up.

The odometer is a simple counter run off a worm gear - it's essentially a
completely different instrument that's in the same case as the speedometer.

As for rebuilding, nose around - there are used speedometers available, and they
can be reset to match the mileage of the car by a good speedo shop for a small
fee (that is, if you care.....).

I just went through a similar cleaning procees on a speedometer - someone had
pressure-greased the speedometer cable on this poor Rover and had "lubricated"
the speedo's innards thoroughly. With the clearances of the cup and magnet,
ANYTHING in there is bad, so  I was forced to disassemble the silly thing and
clean it out with alcohol, Q-tips and delicate care.

47 Q-tips later it works fine....8*)

                         ajr

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From: hstin@cts.com (Henry Stinson)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 11:29:03 -0800 (PST)
Subject: Jacobs Ignition

Hello,
        My brother ran one of their ignition systems on his grey market '79
two door Range Rover.  We noticed no real improvement in the carb'ed 3.5's
performance despite trying a variety of spark plug gaps and converting to
"high performance" plug wires.  In my opinion the systems one redeeming
feature was that it could be fairly easily diagnosed as the problem and then
removed in anger with the Rover stalled out in the midst of a rather steep
hillclimb.  

                                                 Henry Stinson
                                        '73 SWB SHED/Damnable Contraption
                                                      (back on the road)   

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 12:50:09 -0700
Subject: Re: SII Steering Box

>It's been my experience that the steering relay is filled through one of the
>top ring retaining bolt holes. The steering box (located up the steering
>shaft in the engine compartment) has a filling plug on the
>top-side....However, I have never seen a drain plug on any of these units.

Both of our IIa's have a drain plug on the wing side of the steering box in
addition to the fill plug on top. Not really useful unless the wing is off.

-joseph and sidney ('67 IIa 88 2.25p parabolics)
missoula, mt

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 16:54:22 EST
Subject: The Gods Must be Crazy

Funny old world, sometimes unexpected good fortune just pops up where you
least expect it.

My son is off on a hiking trip with his ATC squadron this week (half term
here) and wanted a camera to take with him. Now the last time he did this the
brand new camera (why do we say "brand" new, sorry I digress) I bought him was
never seen again having been lost on some Welsh hillside. So being the tight
git that I am I wandered into a branch of these modern day pawnbrokers that
are popping up all over southern England and bought him a good quality
secondhand camera for just twelve quid.
 
Now what has this to do with Land Rovers you are all undoubtedly asking. Well
having paid for the camera the very unattractive young lady tells me they are
giving away my choice of video tape with every sale over ten quid. Over to the
tatty video rack I half heartedly sauntered and straight away a title seemed
to leap out at me THE GODS MUST BE CRAZY.
 
I nearly walked out of the shop without the camera.

Now I have heard tell of this film many times in Land Rover circles but
nothing had prepared me for the laughs contained in this somewhat poor story.
I still get a giggle now remembering how the guy in the film was trying to
stop the ser1 rolling away whilst he opened a gate by quickly leaping out to
grab a rock to stick under the wheel.

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
(If you can't get there in a hybrid you can't get there) 

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:20:13 EST
Subject: 109SW shoulder belts

Hey folks,
I think I need to put shoulder belts in Mrs. Merdle.  

I plan to take the roof off her next summer, so how should I mount the top of
the belts?  Will the regular 109 SW bracket  (RN part # 348474 and 348473)
work or is that dependent on having the roof on to mount it?  Should I just
bolt it right through the top of the T-piece, causing all you aesthetes out
there to cringe at the sight of a bolt protruding from the side of Mrs. M.?

Or should I just hope I don't get in a wreck?  Not likely, considering that I
rear-ended a van last weekend, hit a deer a month ago, and ran into a chain
stretched across the road about 7 mos. ago.

Bill Rice
Columbus GA

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:20:03 EST
Subject: leaky hubs--my response

Howdy and thanks for all advice.

breather ain't the problem--it's a big ol' hose that runs up to the inside of
the truck.

Silly me--didn't even occur to me that the same bolts that hold on the brake
backplate also hold on the stub shaft.  Some of them (altho' I put everything
together w/ new hardware w/ nylock nuts) were indeed loose on each side.  I
tightened them up yesterday, not even realizing that they, and not the
distance pieces may have been the cause of the leak.  Although it should've
occurred to me sooner that the ooze wasn't a grease/oil mixture, but oil only.

 I guess if the leak continues I'll have to tear everything apart again
(yippee!), including the backplates (ugh!) and put new seals between stub
shaft and axle.  Then maybe eventually replace the brake shoes, once I
determine that the flow had indeed been staunched.

Thanks and have a nice day,
Bill Rice

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:31:11 EST
Subject: Re: 109SW shoulder belts

In a message dated 10/26/98 5:23:35 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
Jarvis64@aol.com writes:

<< Or should I just hope I don't get in a wreck?  Not likely, considering that
I
 rear-ended a van last weekend, hit a deer a month ago, and ran into a chain
 stretched across the road about 7 mos. ago. >>

Mount a shiny 6" spike on the steering wheel. It will prevent you from running
into things. Believe me, if it was there prior to the chain incident, the deer
and the van wouldn't have been touched...

;-)

Ok, don't do that, I was kidding. but wouldn't spikes make people drive so
much better? No more tailgating...

--pat.

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 18:35:33 -0400
Subject: Re: 109SW shoulder belts

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:
> Hey folks,
> I think I need to put shoulder belts in Mrs. Merdle.
> I plan to take the roof off her next summer, so how should I mount the top of
> the belts?  Will the regular 109 SW bracket  (RN part # 348474 and 348473)
> work or is that dependent on having the roof on to mount it?  Should I just
> bolt it right through the top of the T-piece, causing all you aesthetes out
> there to cringe at the sight of a bolt protruding from the side of Mrs. M.?
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> rear-ended a van last weekend, hit a deer a month ago, and ran into a chain
> stretched across the road about 7 mos. ago.

Hmmm... A deer, a van and a chain. I suggest you reinforce the hard top 
and install a 5 point harness or look for one of the Ex Royal Ulster
Constabulary armoured 110s : )
    John and Muddy

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:27:12 EST
Subject: Re: The Gods Must be Crazy

In a message dated 10/26/98 5:07:36 PM SA Pacific Standard Time,
MRogers315@aol.com writes:

<< THE GODS MUST BE CRAZY.
  
 I nearly walked out of the shop without the camera.
 
 Now I have heard tell of this film many times in Land Rover circles but
 nothing had prepared me for the laughs contained in this somewhat poor story.
<< THE GODS MUST BE CRAZY.

A classic film, well at least in our circles...

Can you imagine watching it at a Drive-In movie theater surrounded by 120+
land Rovers?? All the honking, hooting and laughing... even a few SI's down in
the front row...  (Yes, even Ron Beckett may have been persuaded to watch a
movie)

It was classic and unforgettable. Cult film status...

--pat.

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From: "Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:54 -0500
Subject: RE: The Gods Must be Crazy

> Can you imagine watching it at a Drive-In movie theater surrounded by   
120+
> land Rovers?? All the honking, hooting and laughing...

Must have been a LONG time ago if everyones horns were working...

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From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 01:02:09 +0200
Subject: RE: The Gods Must be Crazy

|> Can you imagine watching it at a Drive-In movie theater
|surrounded by
|120+
|> land Rovers?? All the honking, hooting and laughing...
|Must have been a LONG time ago if everyones horns were working...

Do you think he knew something we have missed by naming the SER1 the
"AntiChrist".

OTOH faulty handbrakes must be an early LR innovation:-)

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'52 SI 80"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 18:13:55 EST
Subject: Re: Ear Wax "oil"

In a message dated 26/10/98 02:17:30 BST, you write:

<<  boogers being the objects-of-varying-density that
 grow within one's nostrils. >>
right, it's that two nations separated by a separate language again - we call
'em 'Bogies'  in the UK

ta pat,

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: CIrvin1258@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 18:57:47 EST
Subject: Re: SA Army LandRovers

In a message dated 98-10-25 16:34:00 EST, you write:

<< Did you buy you exSAA one straight from the army or has someone had the
 opportunity to play with it in between times?
 >>

Well: This truck has been in the U.S. for about 20 years, but had never been
registered here, until I got hold of it - the P.O. was driving it, using
titles from other trucks! (he didn't know how easy it would be to register it)

To my knowledge, I'm the second civilian owner - the P.O. had worked on a film
crew in S.A., which had bought the truck for some production they were working
on, he fell in love with it, and bought it from the production company, and
imported it to California.

This particular truck had a very bad life...I think the production company
gave it to him as scrap! (maybe they blew it up, or something?) It runs and
drives, but the chassis is really a mess (great bodywork, though).

...Has an interesting twin tank system, too: the aux. tank feeds into the main
tank.

Charles

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From: John Cassidy <rovah@agate.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:51:28 -0500
Subject: Spring height numbers needed...

Fellow Listers,
          I have new springs on my '66 IIA, but it sits nose down, and with
the right rear corner higher than the left.  I can't find figures for
clearance I should see with new springs, and need those so I can discuss
getting a new set from the supplier....

Thanks to anyone who can help!  John
John Cassidy, Bangor Maine USA
President, Downeast Land Rover Club, http://www.agate.net/~rovah/

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From: slade@DreamLab.cc (Michael Slade)
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 17:06:03 -0700
Subject: Re: 109SW shoulder belts

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 15:47:33
Subject: Re: topless belt mounts

	If you have the bulkhead, you can get toggle bolts and seat belts that
mount into the bulkhead.  If no bulkhead, you would have to fabricate a
bracket that would secure the shoulder strap to the side of the rover.  
	My 1970 88 came with these belts, as far as I can tell, and the bulkhead
is already drilled for these belts as far back as 1965.  They are not
easily adjusted and have no inertial reel so you have to disconnect or
shrug under the shoulder strap to reach the floor, etc.  I find it to be no
big deal except you can't reach the old style straight emergency brake
lever with the belt on.  I solved the problem by adding a new curved brake
lever to my 1965 109 pickup.
Aloha Peter

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 20:51:48 EST
Subject: Re: Master cylinder removal?

In a message dated 98-10-26 01:27:48 EST, you write:

 I have to rebuild both the clutch and brake master cyls. What is the
 proper way ( most expeditious) to remove them? I'm sure some of you have
 become experts at this. TIA.
  >>
The quickest way to remove them is to disconnect the hydraulic lines from the
cylinders (do what you can to keep the brake fluid from running all over your
paintwork) and then remove the pedal towers from the bulkhead by removing the
12 bolts on the inside of the footwell. If you remove the brake MC tower first
there MAY be room to pull the clutch MC tower out without removing or at least
loosening the fender, but I wouldn't bet on it as that has never been my
experience. Having the towers out gives you an opportunity to check the
condition of the pedal levers and fulcrums which have a tendency to wear.

Good luck.

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:07:31 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

In a message dated 98-10-26 09:59:12 EST, you write:

 Not only good, It sholud be powerfull to acomplish its task!!!!
 :-}
  >>
The problem is that with the Rover putting out say 70 decibels and the stereo
putting out another 50 pretty soon you won't be able to hear either
(permanently). I'm thinking you might be better off with a good set of
headphones to hold out the Rover noise while you crank up the music. I realize
however that in some places this is not legal. Go figure!

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Joseph Broach <jbroach@selway.umt.edu>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:11:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Spring height numbers needed...

>I have new springs on my '66 IIA, but it sits nose down, and with
>the right rear corner higher than the left.  I can't find figures for
>clearance I should see with new springs, and need those so I can discuss
>getting a new set from the supplier....

Here are the numbers from the Haynes manual:

Front (from top of axle to the bottom of the frame):

88" basic & HD 4.41" (112mm)
109 "     " "  4.72" (120mm)
109 mil        6.22" (158mm)

Rear

88" 5.67" (144mm)
109 6.30" (160mm)
109 mil 8.11 (206mm)

acceptable variation is 1 inch

-joseph and sidney
missoula, MT

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From: "The Stockdales" <mstockdale@mho.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 18:54:45 -0700
Subject: Electronic ignitions

FWIW

At the Steamboat CO rally this past summer I was following a
fellow down the road.  Both his and mine are 88" SW's, his
1966 mine 1959.  He whooped my ass as in top speed.  I know
that there is a HP difference with the vehicles but I have
an overdrive and he doesn't.  What he does have is an
electronic ignition (don't know which variant).  Sure my
tired old 7:1 engine doesn't have much power, but he really
blew my doors off.  I am not standing up for electronic
ignitions or anything, but he kept surpassing me that it
really makes me think about it.

On another thread; We haven't heard from D. Bobek in a
while.  His position as El Presidente of the DC rover
community has been silent for a while.  Are you out there
Dave?

Mitch and the Red Dinosaur

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:17:43 -0800
Subject: Re: Spring height numbers needed...

John Cassidy wrote:
> Fellow Listers,
>           I have new springs on my '66 IIA, but it sits nose down, and with
> the right rear corner higher than the left.  I can't find figures for
> clearance I should see with new springs, and need those so I can discuss
> getting a new set from the supplier....

All measurements are between the frame, not rubber stop, and axle.
For an 88" front axle: 4.41" basic and hd suspension, and 4.80" for 1/2
ton
           rear axle : 5.67" basic and hd and, 5.59" for 1/2 ton
For a 109" Front axle: 4.72" basic and hd, and 6.22" for extended
shackles
	   rear axle : 6.30" basic and hd, and 8.11" for extended shackles

Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:20:42 -0800
Subject: Re: Spring height numbers needed...

John Cassidy wrote:
> Fellow Listers,
>           I have new springs on my '66 IIA, but it sits nose down, and with
> the right rear corner higher than the left. 

I forgot to say that 1" height difference between sides is acceptable
according to manual.
Jim Hall

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From: William Dan Terry <wterry@netpubsintl.com>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 19:48:13 -0700
Subject: IIA 109 for sale

Lots of professional work done on it. All receipts. $7800.

 http://www.netpubsintl.com/CyberJungle/landrover

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:40:42 EST
Subject: Re: Servo woes

A vacuum leak through the servo should cause some effect on your engine tune.
I'd say if you pull the hose off the servo while the engine is running and
plug the end the engine will either continue to run as before (no leak) or it
will smooth out appreciably (massive leak). In between - small leak or some
other problem.

Good luck and if you try this silly ass idea let me know if it works.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:48:31 EST
Subject: Re: Series III tub removal

In a message dated 10/26/98 8:45:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, ggg@mediaone.net
writes:

<< The frame outriggers have little vertical extensions that bolted to
 the tub. These vertical extensions are behind the tub. The bolts have
 been removed, but the tub won't go backward because of these.
  >>

Hi Gerald,

If all else fails in regards to removing the tub, and you are sure all bolts
are removed, I would try putting a board between a HiLift jack and a wheel
well and jack it up.  The weight of the truck should pull it loose if anything
will.

Nate

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From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:57:41 EST
Subject: Overdrive Installation Insight

Hi all,

I finally got my overdrive installed.  The problem turned out to be with the
lock washer behind the round nut on the mainshaft.

I don't know if Superwinch overdrives have this problem, but the Santana unit
has very tight tolerances between the driving piece bolted on the mainshaft
and the sleeve on the overdrive.  If ANY of the locking tabs stick up above
the level of the circular nut, the sleeve will hang up on the tab and no
amount of pushing, pulling and trying to draw it up with the bolts will help.

One other note:  The unit comes very close to the exhaust pipe and I'm going
to put some insulating wrap on the exhaust where it passes near the box.

Nate

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 21:59:42 EST
Subject: Re: Generator problem

In a message dated 98-10-26 12:26:22 EST, you write:

 My voltage regulator only has two coils and has RB106 stamped on the
 side of the base of the unit. The cover has A|A1|F|D|E molded into it
  >>
The RB106 is the standard Lucas voltage regulator supplied on practically all
British cars from time immemorial. The fact it shows up on your vehicle
indicates it was built prior to the change to the later system. The Brits are
famous (infamous) for making evolutionary changes to their vehicles on the
line as the older parts were used up. Remember, they never fell into the
"model year change" trap.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: Brett Storey <brstore@ibm.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:27:41 -0500
Subject: Re: 109SW shoulder belts

Gee, wasn't there also a little incident at the OVLR birthday party a few months
ago as well Bill?

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:

Hey folks,
I think I need to put shoulder belts in Mrs. Merdle.

I plan to take the roof off her next summer, so how should I mount the top
of
the belts?  Will the regular 109 SW bracket  (RN part # 348474 and 348473)
work or is that dependent on having the roof on to mount it?  Should I just
bolt it right through the top of the T-piece, causing all you aesthetes out
there to cringe at the sight of a bolt protruding from the side of Mrs. M.?

Or should I just hope I don't get in a wreck?  Not likely, considering that
I
rear-ended a van last weekend, hit a deer a month ago, and ran into a chain
stretched across the road about 7 mos. ago.

Bill Rice
Columbus GA

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 22:30:00 EST
Subject: Re: Did I kill my Speedo?

In a message dated 98-10-26 13:43:35 EST, you write:

<< I've never had one
 apart so I'm not real sure of the internal operation.  Would this be
 rebuildable or is it toast?
 
 Thanks,
 Ben
 Maryville, TN
 
 >>

No you don't want to take it apart, but it probably can be repaired. As a
matter of fact one of the best guage repair shops in the country is located
right here in Albuquerque. Try calling MOMA at (505) 766-6661. 

For the first time I feel the need to state that I have no inerest of any kind
ithe aforementioned business (if I did I would have guages that work) and I
only know them by their reputation.

Good luck.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 23:01:39 EST
Subject: Re: 109SW shoulder belts

In a message dated 98-10-26 17:23:35 EST, you write:

 I plan to take the roof off her next summer, so how should I mount the top of
 the belts?  Will the regular 109 SW bracket  (RN part # 348474 and 348473)
 work or is that dependent on having the roof on to mount it?   >>

Depending on how long you intend to have the top off you may want to have a
roll bar made for it. You could then have the shoulder belt mounts
incorporated into the bar. You might want to rethink shoulder belts on a
vehicle with no top. If you should roll over it may not allow you to get down
far enough to keep from becoming part of the "vehicle support system".

Later.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:01:56 EST
Subject: Re: 109SW shoulder belts (more than a mouthful)

In a message dated 98-10-26 17:37:57 EST, you write:

 Hmmm... A deer, a van and a chain. I suggest you reinforce the hard top 
 and install a 5 point harness or look for one of the Ex Royal Ulster
 Constabulary armoured 110s : )
     John and Muddy >>

Sounds like mild abuse to me:

December 1981 I neglect to engage 4wd on a slippery road. My IIA losses
traction and slides off an unimproved oil field road, catches the right front
bumper on a high verge and launches itself end over end landing on its top.
Patched the radiator banged the front fenders off the front tires and drove
350 miles home. Nearly froze to death because the top seam of the roof split
and made an air scoop. Used top and fenders and she was back on the road
looking like a rubics cube.

November 1988, the same vehicle, my #2 son driving neglects (there's that word
again) to clear the windows and pulls out in front of a Toyota pickup. 
running before sunup with no lights. The Landrover does a 270. The Toy
sustains over $3000 in damage. I rebuild the Rover with an old chassis I
inherited because Don Piburn (anyone know him?) joined the Peace Corps.
That rover is still running and is owned by ace fry in Cedar Crest, NM. The
son was uninjured and, thinking he must be immortal, joined the Army and is
now a Green Beret.

June 1998, #4 son neglects (a lot of that going around.) to stop for a red
light. A new Mazda flying through the light clips the left rear quarter and
turns the SIII sideways in the road. The vehicle almost recovers but rolls
over 3 times on the second gyration. Son and date unbuckle the three point
harnesses and walk away. Date kisses off son (no sense of adventure.) Son
suffering from same delusion as brother joins the Army. Claims he needs to
have some more adventures in the old landie. What?Jumping out of airplanes
isn't enough?

Grand total: 

3 major accidents
No injuries
Approx. $6000 damage to brand X cars
Landies fixed at home by Dear old Dad.

I don't know why but i'm nuts about these cars.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM
 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 00:05:24 EST
Subject: Re: The Gods Must be Crazy

I've got to get a winch like that!

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@fs1-kfih.azr.nl>
Date: Tue, 27 Oct 1998 10:23:55 +0100
Subject: Re: Series III tub removal

Hello Gerald,
 
> I will try that tomorrow. Lifting it by hand works, but I still get
> stopped by those pesky captive bolts. Maybe they are not really meant
> to be captive, just rusted on. If so they are the only bolts that were
> much more rusted than the nuts since the nuts came of fairly easily.

I guess the plates must have rusted solid to the aluminium, I have 
used an electric welder to melt down the steel of bolts in these kind 
of situations, look out for fire hazard, your petrol tank may be 
quite close...............
And everything will become undone.

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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