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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 07:35:01 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

In a message dated 10/25/98 12:42:48 AM, you wrote:

Rovers North    http://www2.roversnorth.com/roversnorth/
British Pacific   http://britpac.frazmtn.com/icaweb/britpac.nsf
British Bulldog  http://www.britishbulldog.com/

Don't know of anyothers>>

Not really a parts house for series bits, but have a look at
http://www.recoverygear.com

There's some neat stuff there, including a pic of Doug Shipman's Series/RR...

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:14:30 -0400
Subject: Re: Wax oil and Franks time off

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
> I missed the start of this thread having been away (the usual - Land Rover
> factory, three days off-roading, press day at the motor show, 

Ah, such a tough way to make a living, have pity on the poor journalist.
  But wait whats this. Two days in hospital.
    Hope you are recovering Frank.
     John and Muddy

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:26:46 -0400
Subject: Re: Block heaters

Peter Hope wrote:
> >fit.  I certainly is nice to come out on a -20 F morning and have your
> >Rover to be the only one in the lot to start *and* you have heat right
> >away....
> Wow Sandy, what part of Norfolk are you in?
> Spent the last 6 years at the Oceanfront, Va Beach and do not remember it
> getting quite that cold, haha.

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 13 lines)]
> in every night before bed.  She would trun right over no problem in the
> mornings (the 1000 CCA batteries didn't hurt either)
 You're from Maine and you don't know about block heaters!!!!
  Same idea as the oil pan heater but it heats the coolant instead of
the oil. Most use an 850 watt electric element and some large V engines
have one for each bank. Plug em for a couple of hours and its better
than summer time.
 In western Canada many corporate parking areas have outlets to plug the
heater in for every space.
   John and Muddy

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:36:18 EST
Subject: Re:  Ahoy the list!

Headliners?  We don't need no steenking headliners!

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:36:13 EST
Subject: 88 vs. 109 dual circuit brakes

Hi everybody,
I've got a friend down here w/ a complete dual-circuit/booster setup he got
from an 88 that he'd like to sell me and I'd like to buy. 

Some catalogs list diffo. dual-circuit master cylinders for 88s and 109s.   Is
it impossible, just stupid, or OK to put the 88 power setup on the 109?  I'm
guessing the 109 master, if they're really different is just bigger in order
to feed the fluid-hungry front dual cylinders.

Anyone done a dual-circuit conversion?  How much of a pain is it?

Thanks,
Bill Rice

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:53:55 -0500
Subject: spin on oil filters

"Wilson, Scott" <wilsons@msmail.vislab.com> wrote:

>By the way anyone know of the correct oil filter part
>number for these things? AB just told me to use a "rover" oil
>filter... that didn't help much... any part number will do... I know
>there was a big hubbub about Fram vs. Something or another...

Don't know if all spin-on adapters use the same filter, but mine (the
Richardson one made back in the 70's) uses the Fram PH-8A (there are dozens
of cross-overs), which may be the most commonly-used filter in the nation.
On the Discovery, the PH-16 is the replacement for the factory/OEM one; it
has similar dimensions, just 3/8" shorter.  Since there is no interference
on the 4.0 engine in the Disco, I use PH-8A on both.  Bigger is better, right?

Stuck at work on a beautiful Sunday.... :-(

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:53:57 -0500
Subject: Overdrive tricks

Nate NADdMD@aol.com wrote:

>What's the trick to getting the overdrive the final 1/2 inch onto the
>mainshaft?  I'm stuck at this point and can't find the previous messages
>which mention this.  Thanks

As I recall, I bumped the engine over (with HT lead disconnected so it
wouldn't start).  With the shift lever to the OD connected and all the
bolts lined up, use the shift lever to pull the OD unit forward whilst
bumping the engine in gear.  "Just a little bit'll do ya'."  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:51:01 -0400
Subject: Re: 88 vs. 109 dual circuit brakes

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:
> Hi everybody,
> I've got a friend down here w/ a complete dual-circuit/booster setup he got
> from an 88 that he'd like to sell me and I'd like to buy.
> Some catalogs list diffo. dual-circuit master cylinders for 88s and 109s.   Is
> it impossible, just stupid, or OK to put the 88 power setup on the 109?  I'm
> guessing the 109 master, if they're really different is just bigger in order
> to feed the fluid-hungry front dual cylinders.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 14 lines)]
> Thanks,
> Bill Rice
I certainly wouldn't put 88 brakes on a 109. They are  marginal on an 88
and the potential for a 109 to be vastly heavier is a major concern.
 However if the 88 is later 1980  then the brakes are the same which
shows that someone at the factory realised that there was a problem.
  I run a 109 with the dual circuit setup and it is only just adequate.
     John and Muddy

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From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:08:17 -0500

"Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com> wrote

>Wow Sandy, what part of Norfolk are you in?
>Spent the last 6 years at the Oceanfront, Va Beach and do not remember it
>getting quite that cold, haha.

Well, the all-time record low here is only -3 F...but I bought my Rover 26
years ago with the express intent of getting to the ski slopes when no one
else could.  On one -35F morning in northern Vermont, *everything* froze.
Battery, oil, gearbox, diffs. To make matters worse, I parked in
gear...couldn't shift.  Had a garage-parked j**p drag me for 1/2 mile on a
snowy road before the wheels started to turn.  The engine eventually
sputtered to life.

>Seriously, what is a block heater?  Is it an electric attachment?  We had
>oil sump heaters installed on the cars back home (Maine) We would plug
>them in every night before bed.  She would trun right over no problem in
>the mornings (the 1000 CCA batteries didn't hurt either)

Same idea, only more efficient.  There are basically four types. In order
of efficiency/safety, the best is a screw-in block heater.  Phillips-Budd
(Thermo) makes one at about 400 watts...you'll need a 1" NPT one.  Another
is a thermo siphon that fits either in the lower rad hose or in the heater
return hose.  Both circulate warmed anti freeze through the engine.  Third
is a clamp-on (either magnetic or permatex-on) plate on the sump like you
mentioned.  Least effective is a dipstick heater.

Ony my Rover, I've got a block heater, battery heater and battery trickle
charger.  Nothing like having your Rover start on the first spin when
others are wearily cranking....  Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 98 08:42:17 -0700
Subject: Re: 88 vs. 109 dual circuit brakes

>I've got a friend down here w/ a complete dual-circuit/booster setup he got
>from an 88 that he'd like to sell me and I'd like to buy. 
;
;> Is it impossible, just stupid, or OK to put the 88 power setup on the 
109?
;>  I'm guessing the 109 master, if they're really different is just 
bigger 
;> in order to feed the fluid-hungry front dual cylinders.

;>Anyone done a dual-circuit conversion?  How much of a pain is it?

Hi Bill
I made this conversion on The Green Rover a couple of years ago and love 
it.  I just plumbed the same conversion in Nick's '62 Dormobile last 
Saturday so it is fresh in memory.

If it helps, I have a 'how I did it' article on the conversion in my web 
site.
http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman
{Go to the Land Rover section and down the table of contents under 
modifications to see the link to the article}

The actual conversion is not difficult if you know what to do.  Having a 
LR with stock power brakes is helpful for measurements when cutting away 
the driver's side wing for clearance but not necessary.

The best way to go is to use the power brake system for the 88 MINUS the 
master cylinder.  The pedal tower and booster (vacuum test it to make 
sure it is good) are needed for the conversion.

You WILL need a 109 master brake cylinder.  I initially made the mistake 
of trying to use an 88 master cylinder.  The best I could do was two 
pedal stomps before getting a little brake pressure at the bottom of the 
pedal travel.  The 88 master cylinder does not pump enough fluid to 
safely activate the 109's front dual brake cylinders.  The 109 master 
cylinder has one large dia bore for the front circuit.

The master cylinder used on series III 109s has different bore diameters 
for each circuit.  If you look at one from the side you will see a step 
down in the bore dia along the top as you go from the rear bore to the 
front bore (an 88 master cylinder is the same dia front to rear).

The piping for the circuits is reversed between the 88 and 109.  On the 
109, the larger bore section (closest to the vacuum booster) is piped to 
the front brakes.

As far as the clutch is concerned you can plug a drain hole in the tin 
can fluid reservoir and cobble a holder to use the stock master clutch 
cylinder or install a series III (& late series IIA) master clutch 
cylinder.  The series III master clutch cylinder has it's own fluid 
reservoir.  It is a much cleaner and less complicated solution.

If you want to make your own brake lines Rovers North carries the proper 
fittings.  DO NOT USE AMERICAN SPEC BRAKE FITTINGS.

Hope that's enough to get you started.  The series III power brakes does 
help the 109 to stop better.  I think it is one of the best safety 
modifications that you can make to the car.

Check the web page & if you have any additional questions please don't 
hesitate to ask.

Take care & good luck

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 11:35:58 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII dual circuit master cylinder

I have looked this item up in the SIII parts catalogue.(RTC9831CE)
(Group G, Page 1L 08)

Part Number is NRC6096. That covers cylinder & reservoir. John Cra**ock 
 quotes £87.93 for it. This is the Dual line master cylinder which 
mounts on Servo unit AEU1043.

 It fits 88" SWB from June 1980, 109 & V8.
    
 I guess it must be the 109 bore size ie 25.4mm/ 1.0 Inch dia, and not 
the old 88 bore size of 22.2mm/0.875 inch dia as quoted in L-R Repair 
Operation Manual AKM3648 (Edition 4) Page 70-10 & 70-11 Ref 70-30-09. 
 
 Hope this helps.
 Paul

 Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:16

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT  (1984)
 

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From: "Wise Owl Innovation Incorporated" <wiseowl@direct.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 09:49:31 -0700
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

Please dont't forget us http://www.bcoffroad.com/wiseowl

----------
> From: SPYDERS@aol.com
> To: lro@playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!
> Date: Sunday, October 25, 1998 5:35 AM
> In a message dated 10/25/98 12:42:48 AM, you wrote:

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> http://www.recoverygear.com
> There's some neat stuff there, including a pic of Doug Shipman's
Series/RR...

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From: "Lowell & Ruth Luke" <lukewarm4@centric.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 10:13:04 -0700
Subject: distributor problem?

howdy everyone-
I was getting ready to give my '65 IIa a tune-up this weekend and whilst
pulling the rotor I noticed a wee-bit of free play in the distributor shaft
and hence the rotor.   There is negligibe side-to-side play; probably 1mm
or so.   However, it will move up and down nearly 4mm and will rotate ~20
degrees under light hand pressure.  I know terribly little about
distributors and was wondering if this range of movement is acceptable or
if I'm in  need of a dist. rebuild or replacement.  Ouch.

Todd Ondick
'65 IIA 88 - crusty "decidedly less so with every damn ups delivey"

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From: MRogers315@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 12:38:34 EST
Subject: Re: Bushings

Franks points about plastic bushes is well taken. The good old Land Rover
rubber bushes are much better for articulation, yet life is limited. I seem to
have struck on a nice balence. I use plastic bushes where flexibility is not
so important (radius arm to axle for instance) yet have kept rubber bushes
where maximum flex is important (radius arm to chassis) This also happens to
coincide with those that are most likely to wear out first (rubber) being in
the places that are most easily replaced. Now is that good or what.

Articulatingly yours

Mike Rogers
Lightweight/Range Rover hybrid
(If you can't get there in a hybrid you can't get there) 

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From: "Huub Pennings" <HPS@FS1-KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:02:11 +0100
Subject:       Re: Make up to $7,000 per month from home

Get lost.
Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 07:59:30 -1000
Subject: Re: 

>Ony my Rover, I've got a block heater, battery heater and battery trickle
>charger.  Nothing like having your Rover start on the first spin when
>others are wearily cranking....  Cheers

What type of trickle charger do you use?  I have seen solar ones as well as
regualr AC plug in.
Pete

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From: Dan & Sally Cantwell <dcantwel@cgo.wave.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 13:43:08 -0500
Subject: Re: Wax oil

Andy Woodward wrote:

> \You should try Minerial spirits in you waxoil mix.  It takes a little
> \longer to evaporate but it is what waxoil is made  of & thinned with.
> dEISEL or Parrafin (kerosene for teh transatlantically-challenged) thins it 
just
> fine and is far cheaper.

> Hey all,
>       Waxoil seems to be the topic of the week; so here's my recipe,

  1 lbs grated wax (candle making wax as bought in a large slab from craft 
supply
house)  2 litres of mineral oil
  1 litre of kerosene

  you can let stand until dissolved adding kerosene as required or use a little
heat. NO OPEN FLAMES. hot water works good.
Dan.
'61 SII 88 HT.

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:24:28 EST
Subject: leaky hubs

Howdy folks,
Ever since I got my salisbury rear axle, it's had leaky hubs.  Just replaced
seals and distance pieces and I had a look at the brake back plate yesterday
(see "weird brakes" message) and what do you think I saw?  Oil mixture oozing
its way down the front of the backplate.  This is strange b/c the inside of
the hubs has a grease/oil mix (yes, I grease 'em) and yet the leak seems to be
just oil--the stuff inside the axle.

What, besides seals and distance pieces, could be the cause of the leak?  

Used to be some was leaking down the back side of the distance pieces also,
but it mostly appears to be leaking down the front.

Is there something weird about the Salisbury which enables oil to get out
somewhere vicinity the stub shaft/back plate junction?

Thanks,
Bill Rice

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:24:43 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: 88 vs. 109 dual circuit brakes

TAW and all others,
Thanks for the info.  If I vacuum test the booster and it's faulty, will that
repair kit some folks sell for about $25 be able to fix it?  What's an easy to
test for vacuum?

Thanks,
Bill Rice 
109SW Mrs. Merdle
Columbus GA

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From: Jarvis64@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:24:33 EST
Subject: weird brakes

Howdy folks,
My 109 brakes have been tough to get adjusted--lots of soft pedal, but not the
"needs bleeding" kind of soft pedal.  Found one brake shoe that appeared to be
riding over the snail cam, rather than being moved out by it.  Think I fixed
it but no improvement in pedal.

UNTIL TODAY, when, after doing absolutely nothing I didn't do to no avail
yesterday, my pedal suddenly became nice and firm.

Anyone have any ideas?  Do I need to get in touch w/ Agent Mulder?

Bill Rice

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 11:06:53
Subject: Re: Jacob's electronic ignition.

Heard these guys advertising on some radio show so called.  Claim
significant increase in horsepower and fuel mileage but short on details
how it works other than hi tech computer control.  From their description,
it seems to be a high voltage ignition that uses the stock points as a
trigger and replaces the coil with their coil and computer module.  Quite
pricey and seems to defy physics.  Anyone with any experience with this
system.
Aloha Peter

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From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 98 13:31:21 -0800
Subject: Re:  Re: 88 vs. 109 dual circuit brakes

>  What's an easy to test for vacuum?

A mity Vac is an ideal tester.  You need somthing that can pull and hold 
a vacume that has a guage that would show if air were leaking in.  On a 
distributer vacume advance I just suck on the hose & watch the diaphram 
move.  If I hold the vacume & the diaphram stays then the distributer 
vacume is good.  I stupidly tried this with my old brake booster.  I 
sucked & sucked & got a headache from the fumes I inhailed.  Not only 
that but I couldn't be quite sure if I had a vacume or not.  A couple 
pumps with a mity vac & I could quickly & safely (but too late for me) 
tell that the diaphram was bad.

See if someone has a mity vac or an equivlant tool to borrow.

Take care be safe

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:30:00 EST
Subject: Re: Power Wheels Toy vehicles RECALLED!

In a message dated 23/10/98 19:31:00 BST, you write:

<< <<>Scott Phillips
 >1984 CJ-7
 	 [ truncated by lro-lite (was 7 lines)]
 >http://www.off-road.com/~jeeplist/phillipss.htm
 >Jeep-SLC http://www.circle17.com/jeep
 Wonder how this got on our list?>>
 
 Spies. They're everywhere... >>

don't be so paranoid Pat. I think (but this is only an opinion) that he might
have bought a computer with one of those modem things, plugged it in and paid
some money to an ISP, then he typed onthe keyboard and............

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:30:27 EST
Subject: Re: Ear Wax "oil"

In a message dated 24/10/98 14:59:32 BST, you write:

<<  booger >>
please translate for a furriner, I have MG owning friends I'd like to insult
:-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: "Richard Clarke"<Richard.Clarke@nre.vic.gov.au>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 08:30:06 +1000
Subject: SA Army LandRovers

I don't know about in South Africa.........but here in Australia a few
years ago a lot of 'home-made' ex-army LandRovers were around

The genuine ex-army ones comeing from the auctions were of good nick, and
relatively cheap for their miles (not kilometers as they had the old
speedos), after a while 'the ex-army are good value' became well known,
some enterprising people made their old bomb Landies look ex-army, putting
up the sale value.

In the mid-eighties I wnt to a secondhand Landy dealer in the western
suburbs to try and get some spares - they had an ex-armt swb over the pit
with an army guard on one side and a civi guard on the other, it was army
drab underneath - I commented on the underneath paint colour and the guy in
the shop said he'd painted it that way and was about to change the civi
guard too - it was then going out on the lot with the ex-army ones

Did you buy you exSAA one straight from the army or has someone had the
opportunity to play with it in between times?

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:30:15 EST
Subject: Re: Make up to $7,000 per month from home

In a message dated 23/10/98 23:29:27 BST, you write:

<<  you can reproduce YOURSELF for pennies!
 
 Now there's an offer that's hard to refuse!! >>

but does that make you a w*nk*r ?

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:55:33 EST
Subject: Re: Wax oil and Franks time off

In a message dated 25/10/98 15:15:27 BST, you write:

<<  Hope you are recovering Frank. >>

yes, thanx John,
just a follow-up to the MI earlier this year, I am fit and well now, sort
of.....

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 16:55:54 EST
Subject: Re: Shocking spam

In a message dated 25/10/98 19:29:04 BST, you write:

 Sorry, these two went the wrong way (I better run for cover if you 
 start bombing my mailbox........)Regards,
  >>
Huub,
no LR content...
try (I better drive away for cover in my Land Rover... etc) :-)>

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

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From: Bill Caloccia <caloccia@senie.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 18:01:51 -0500
Subject: sighting, movie "white hunter, black heart"

clint eastwood in africa, appears to be about the making of the African Queen
him, being the director (john huston ?), also out for 'the big tusker'

lots of series ones, though somehow a 109" safari with tropical roof and
full length rack snuck in there at the end
-B

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 18:22:19 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Ear Wax "oil"

In a message dated 10/25/98 5:31:51 PM, you wrote:

<<<<  booger >>
please translate for a furriner, I have MG owning friends I'd like to insult
:-)>>>

Well, I don't know if you caught the "home-made waxoyl thread", but a few of
the usual suspects/characters on the list were providing their home-brew
recipes for waxoyl, and someone said ear-wax could be used in the mix... to
which another wag added: we could have ear-wax collection points at rallies
and auction the lot off at the end of the year... and Ron Beckett called us
all gross ;-)

To which I added: not as gross as the MG owners who collect (pick) boogers to
lubricate their U-Joints... boogers being the objects-of-varying-density that
grow within one's nostrils... it was a cheap-shot at the MG'ers who are known
for their thriftiness over here...

--pat.

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 18:39:21 EST
Subject: Re:  Re: Make up to $7,000 per month from home

In a message dated 10/25/98 5:32:20 PM, you wrote:

<<<<  you can reproduce YOURSELF for pennies!
 Now there's an offer that's hard to refuse!! >>

but does that make you a w*nk*r ?>>

No, but probably something a Scot can appreciate: Cloning for mere pennies!

--pat.

ps: how was copper wire invented? Two Scots fighting over a penny. haha.

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From: Steve Rochna <75347.452@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:17:25 -0500
Subject: Portable cylinder bore

Any and all:

Last year I had my 2.25 apart and did a cylinder hone with a ring
replacement.  If I could have machined the cylinders without removing the
engine I'd have done a complete in-place rebuild.  I saw in the September
issue of LROI (page 153) a bore that clamps onto the block and will do the
job in-place.  Has anybody seen one of these in the US?  After calling
around last year and being laughed at I just assumed they did not exist. 
Are these things sold or rented in the UK and if so for how much?

Thanks, Steve - the horse is gone, the door closed but I'll be ready if he
ever comes back - Rochna

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:29:35 -0400
Subject: Re: leaky hubs

Jarvis64@aol.com wrote:
> Howdy folks,
> Ever since I got my salisbury rear axle, it's had leaky hubs.  Just replaced
> seals and distance pieces and I had a look at the brake back plate yesterday
> (see "weird brakes" message) and what do you think I saw?  Oil mixture oozing
> its way down the front of the backplate.  This is strange b/c the inside of
> the hubs has a grease/oil mix (yes, I grease 'em) and yet the leak seems to be
> just oil--the stuff inside the axle.
	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
> Is there something weird about the Salisbury which enables oil to get out
> somewhere vicinity the stub shaft/back plate junction?
 It could be leaking where the stub is attached to the axle housing.
Check these bolts for tightness and the condition of the paper "joint
washer" (gasket).
     John and Muddy
   P.S. Also check the axle breather, if its plugged the oil will leak
in unexpected places as it warms and expands.

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:40:13 -0400
Subject: Re: Ear Wax "oil"

Frankelson@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 24/10/98 14:59:32 BST, you write:
> <<  booger >>
> please translate for a furriner, I have MG owning friends I'd like to insult
> :-)>
> Best Cheers

	 [ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Best Cheers
> Frank
 Booger = snot or nose pickings

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From: john cranfield <john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:38:45 -0400
Subject: Re: Jacob's electronic ignition.

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> Heard these guys advertising on some radio show so called.  Claim
> significant increase in horsepower and fuel mileage but short on details
> how it works other than hi tech computer control.  From their description,
> it seems to be a high voltage ignition that uses the stock points as a
> trigger and replaces the coil with their coil and computer module.  Quite
> pricey and seems to defy physics.  Anyone with any experience with this
> system.

 There is no real magic here. Their system produces a much higher
voltage spark which is supposed to improve the combustion thus releasing
more power from the fuel.
On other Lists there have been many complaints about the quality of
Jacobs systems. Basicly  if you feel you Rover is lacking power beyond
the fact that it only ever had about 72 hp give it a good tune up.  If
that doesn't work it is probably worn out and bolt on goodies aren't
going help. Save your hard earned $$$ for a rebuild.
Been there done that.
     John and Muddy

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From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:56:26 -0500
Subject: MSLROC Swap Meet info needed

I've seen an announcement on the RN swap BBS of the "6th Annual
Midwestern Swap Meet" recently to be held Nov. 7&8 in Columbus, Indiana.
Does anyone have more information? I've twice replyied via e-mail as
specified, but haven't heard anything. Where exactly is it? Are the many
series parts for sale?

Regards,
David Cockey

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From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 15:18:06 -1000
Subject: Re: Jacob's electronic ignition.

>Heard these guys advertising on some radio show so called.  Claim
>significant increase in horsepower and fuel mileage but short on details
>how it works other than hi tech computer control.  From their description,
>it seems to be a high voltage ignition that uses the stock points as a
>trigger and replaces the coil with their coil and computer module.  Quite
>pricey and seems to defy physics.  Anyone with any experience with this
>system.

Aloha Peter
I have used Alison and Jacob electronic ignition systems on Spitfires
('66-'75).  The ones I used replaced the points though.  If I remember
correctly (it's been about 4 years) one used a magnetic pickup and the other
used a light source.  With both these systems I did replace the coil, but I
know that the Alison does work with the OE one.  I was very happy with these
ignitions.  I have heard/read of people replacing the electronic ignitions
with points systems on expedition/comp vehicles because they are easier to
fix and less pricey to carry spares.
Pete

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:01:32 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

Thanks again, ain't technology wunnerful?

Bill Lawrence

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:24:32 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list! dismantling Faerey Hubs

In a message dated 98-10-25 01:01:21 EST, you write:

<< Scratched my head for a long time before calling RN to get the skinny on
 how to take these things apart. >>

Ah, the old chinese puzzle trick. What do you expect from an outfit named
Fairey?

Bill Lawrence

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From: "Lowell & Ruth Luke" <lukewarm4@centric.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:35:11 -0700
Subject: Re: leaky hubs

Not that this has happened to me or anything, but have you checked your
axle breather?  It's worth looking into since a rise in axle case pressure
can cause this sort of thing to happen with good seals (the thinner oil
flowing rather than the grease... I use grease too).   
Then again, if the paper washer between the stub shaft and axle case is
damaged, missing, etc. you'll get a drip sort of like you've described. 
Did you dig this far yet?
Anyhow... this is just my two-cents, hope it helps.

Todd Ondick 

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:42:44 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

In a message dated 98-10-25 09:37:28 EST, you write:

<< Headliners?  We don't need no steenking headliners! >>
That's not the worst, he want's a stereo in it too. And a working
SPEEDOMETER!? Is that possible?

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From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:47:31 +0100
Subject: Re: Portable cylinder bore

wrote:
>Last year I had my 2.25 apart and did a cylinder hone with a ring
>replacement.  If I could have machined the cylinders without
removing the
engine I'd have done a complete in-place rebuild.  I saw in the
September
issue of LROI (page 153) a bore that clamps onto the block and will
do the
>job in-place.  Has anybody seen one of these in the US?  After
calling
>around last year and being laughed at I just assumed they did not
exist. 
snip

They're available in the US. They're commonly used on large trucks,
especially for field repair.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:54:02 EST
Subject: Re: 88 vs. 109 dual circuit brakes

In a message dated 98-10-25 09:51:44 EST, you write:

<< However if the 88 is later 1980  then the brakes are the same which
 shows that someone at the factory realised that there was a problem.
   I run a 109 with the dual circuit setup and it is only just adequate. >>

The interesting thing is that there was a problem all along and it took that
long to fix it. I put a set of 11" brakes on a SIIA that I had and it
competely transformed the braking performance. IE I actually had brakes when I
needed them.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: jimfoo@uswest.net
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 19:49:32 -0800
Subject: Re: Jacob's electronic ignition.

Faye and Peter Ogilvie wrote:
> Heard these guys advertising on some radio show so called.  Claim
> significant increase in horsepower and fuel mileage but short on details
> Quite pricey and seems to defy physics.  Anyone with any experience with this
> system.

	I have a friend who had a j**p that he put a jacobs ignition on. He
said it was great for a while, but then he started having problems with
it. He returned it after much trouble and got his money back. I however
have no experience myself with the system. I did recently put an old
mallory hyfire on my rover, hooking it up to the points. It didn't seem
to improve power, although it didn't hurt it either. I just figured the
points would last longer and require much less adjustment.
Jim Hall
Elephant Chaser 1966 88" truck cab

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From: GElam30092@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:01:53 EST
Subject: Re: leaky hubs

In a message dated 10/25/98 6:54:51 PM US Mountain Standard Time,
john.cranfield@ns.sympatico.ca writes:

<<  It could be leaking where the stub is attached to the axle housing.
 Check these bolts for tightness and the condition of the paper "joint
 washer" (gasket). >>

Isn't there an oil seal in there too?  The stub axle seal or something like
that?

Cheers,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:11:30 EST
Subject: Re: distributor problem?

In a message dated 98-10-25 12:05:06 EST, you write:

<< There is negligibe side-to-side play; probably 1mm
 or so.   However, it will move up and down nearly 4mm and will rotate ~20
 degrees under light hand pressure. >>

Those numbers don't sound too bad. The rotation is the action of the
centrifugal advance mechanism. Just make sure that when you rotate it it
springs back to it's original position and you are home free. As far as the up
and down motion just make sure the screw in the center of the post is
tightened after you remove it and place one drop of oil under it.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:23:29 EST
Subject: Re: leaky hubs

In a message dated 98-10-25 15:26:04 EST, you write:

<< What, besides seals and distance pieces, could be the cause of the leak?

Bill, Have you checked the breather on the top of the axle? If it is plugged
the oil will be forced out the seals when the axle warms up under use.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:31:32 EST
Subject: Re: Jacob's electronic ignition.

In a message dated 98-10-25 16:06:40 EST, you write:

<< Quite
 pricey and seems to defy physics.  Anyone with any experience with this
 system. >>

One of these and one of those secret carburettors that GM won't let us buy
(the bastards!) and we can start selling gasoline. Yeah, good luck.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:38:57 EST
Subject: Re: Ear Wax "oil"

In a message dated 98-10-25 16:31:51 EST, you write:

<< <<  booger >>
 please translate for a furriner, I have MG owning friends I'd like to insult
 :-)> >>

Most MG owners call it chewing gum.

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 22:55:29 EST
Subject: Re: Make up to $7,000 per month from home

In a message dated 98-10-25 20:41:16 EST, you write:

<< <<<  you can reproduce YOURSELF for pennies!
  Now there's an offer that's hard to refuse!! >>
 
 but does that make you a w*nk*r ?>>
 
 No, but probably something a Scot can appreciate: Cloning for mere pennies!
 
 --pat.
  >>

I thought that's what I had a wife for, and it only cost
me.....well.....EVERYTHING!

Bill Lawrence
Albq, NM

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 20:38:58 -0800
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
> That's not the worst, he want's a stereo in it too. And a working
> SPEEDOMETER!? Is that possible?

Hey!  I've found a good stereo is the best antidote to Rover noises.

C

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From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 23:49:29 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy/Speedo cable & Noise

In a message dated 10/26/98 12:41:58 AM, you wrote:

<<That's not the worst, he want's a stereo in it too. And a working
 SPEEDOMETER!? Is that possible?>>

<<Hey!  I've found a good stereo is the best antidote to Rover noises.>>

And I thought it was a seized engine and four wooden blocks beneath the axles
to keep the wheels off the ground like those Alabama* "Lawn Vehicles"... ;-)  

--pat "finally replaced the speedo cable" parsons

Damn. Now I know how slow I'm going...

*Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas...

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From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 23:55:28 EST
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

In a message dated 98-10-25 23:41:58 EST, you write:

<< Hey!  I've found a good stereo is the best antidote to Rover noises.
 
 C >>
Naw the best antidote is nerve deafness. However I do find some of the sounds
quite entertaining.

Bill Lawrence

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From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:16:41 -0800
Subject: Re: Ahoy/Speedo cable & Noise

SPYDERS@aol.com wrote:
> And I thought it was a seized engine and four wooden blocks beneath 
> the axles to keep the wheels off the ground like those Alabama* "Lawn 
> Vehicles"... ;-)
8<
> *Georgia, Louisiana, Mississippi, Arkansas...

What about Oklahoma?  I'm from there, so I speak with authority.

RE How slow you are going:  Try driving a IIA for a couple of years as your
daily driver.  Your 110 will seem like a Ferrari after that.  Again, speaking
from experience!

C

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From: "Brian G. Holmes" <b-sholmes@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 21:33:03 -0800
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

I don't even turn on the stereo in mine - the "rich mechanical sounds" of
the II-A drown them out.
Cheers, 
Brian

----------

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From: "Piet Fourie : pah@saao.ac.za" <pah@saao.ac.za>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 07:50:12 +0200 (SAT)
Subject: Re: subscribe za-lro

subscribe za-lro

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From: Don <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 23:29:24 -0700
Subject: re: weird brakes

Sounds to me like a pocket of trapped air in your lines found its way up
the pipe.

Don

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From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 20:25:04
Subject: Re: Looking for Jason Herbert

I'm trying to get in touch with Jason Herbert from Louisiana at
JSHebert@eri.eqt.com.  The mail keeps getting bounced.  If Jason is on the
list or anyone have a better email address for him, please get in touch
with my
Aloha Peter

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From: Don <DandY@saltspring.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 23:34:02 -0700
Subject: Master cylinder removal?

I have to rebuild both the clutch and brake master cyls. What is the
proper way ( most expeditious) to remove them? I'm sure some of you have
become experts at this. TIA.

Don  '68 88" IIA
	 '67 109" IIA Safari

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From: "Andy Grafton" <andyg@sherco.co.za>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:37:29 +0200
Subject: Re : Bushings

Frank Wrote;

> Also I have seen bushes made from polyurethane (I am not naming 
> a specific make) flake and fall apart in competition - I don't like that 
> idea either.

I think I may be able to offer an explanation here, Frank...  Under 
exceptionally high levels of stress, certain plastics will go very hard; 
indeed, almost crystalline.  That a) does not do wonders for their shock-
absorbing qualities and b) leads to the bushes cracking and falling apart. 
Whilst you might bruise a rubber bush or punch the metal through it, it 
won't totally disintegrate all at once.  Haven't heard of this happening 
outside of competition usage, though. 

If you think about it something that gets stiffer the harder you hit it is 
not what you want for a bushing?

> nope, I'll stick to rubber.....

I agree, even if rubber bushings can be a bugger to fit.

All the best,

Andy
andyg@sherco.co.za, '79RR

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From: "Huub Pennings" <hps@FS1-KFIH.AZR.NL>
Date: Mon, 26 Oct 1998 09:22:30 +0100
Subject: Re: Series III tub removal

Okay, Gerald,

>Go to the rear of the tub, and lift the tub above the 
>attachment points on the rear of the frame, pull the tub rearward of 
>and free of the front attachments.
>>Pulling the tub rearward is limited by the attachments at the front 
>>of the tub to the frame outriggers.

So, undo these attachments first, I thought all that was holding the 
tub were the attachments at the front, towards the seatbox .
If you have removed the bolts, the described procedure should work.

Regards,

Huub Pennings
(private e-mail to jpennings@worldonline.nl

e-mail adress
Pennings@kfih.azr.nl

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