Land Rover Owner Message Digest Contents

[ First Message Last | Table of Contents | <- Digest -> Archive Index | <- Browser -> ]

The Land Rover Owner Daily Digest

Send Submissions Land-Rover-Owner@Land-Rover.Team.Net

From: SPYDERS@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 09:57:48 EDT
Subject: Re:  Ear Wax "oil"

In a message dated 10/24/98 1:41:35 AM, you wrote:

Why not have ear wax collecting points at all Land-Rover 
events, then at the end of the season could be auctioned off. 

Ron replied:
Gawd, you guys are gross !! 8-)>>

Yeah, but it sure beats the booger collecting the MG people do for their u-
joints ;-)

--pat.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Kirk Hillman <khillman@rttinc.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 08:57:54 -0700
Subject: Santana Springs: Parabolic

Paul,
    Thanks for filling me in.  Now things make a little more sense.  I
am still disappointed though, if I want parabolics I have to pay the
price for them.  That is going to hurt.  :-)

Cheers,
Kirk

--
"Faith without works is dead."

Maranatha, selah.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "David and Cynthia Walker" <wahooadv@earthlink.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 18:01:44 -0700
Subject: test - sorry

ping

new email screen

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "A. P. \"Sandy\" Grice" <rover@pinn.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 11:49:40 -0400
Subject: Block heaters

>Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>

>What is the purpose of a block heater? I didn't think it was something
that >would be needed on a vehicle in hawaii?

For those times you go skiing on Mauna Kea??....

Didn't remember that you're on Hawaii...a block heater is so inexpensive
that it makes sense for *anyone* who will ever venture into snow country to
fit.  I certainly is nice to come out on a -20 F morning and have your
Rover to be the only one in the lot to start *and* you have heat right
away....  

>Its an excuse to by a die grinder and a bunch of stones as well as the
>tap to clean it up after I bugger it up.  Still looking for less drastic
>ideas so if anyone has any ideas, let me know.

You may be able to dress up the center to the shape of a piece of metal
that can be used as like socket, but at this stage it's probably so
rust-welded in place that it can only be remove destructively.  Since the
carb is away, try heat then quenching with penetrating oil....

>As far as the freeze plug, how do you get them out.  Drive a screw 
>driver through the center and pry them out or what.

Yup...appropriate technique.

>Is any sealant required on reinstallation???  Do you just beat the plug
>in with a block of wood.

You just have to be cautious to start them square.  Buy one or two extra in
case you bugger the first one.  They're cheap.  Some freeze plugs come with
some rubbery sealant stuff already applied.  If not, a smear of Permatex
wouldn't hurt.  I used Teflon pipe tape on the block heater, but since you
don't need that, just wrap a 1" NPT plug with it first.  Cheers

Cheers

  *----jeep may be famous, LAND-ROVER is Legendary----*
  |                                                   |
  |             A. P. ("Sandy") Grice                 |
  |    Rover Owners' Association of Virginia, Ltd.    |
  |     Association of North American Rover Clubs     |
  |    1633 Melrose Pkwy., Norfolk, VA 23508-1730     |
  |(O)757-622-7054, (H)757-423-4898, FAX 757-622-7056 |
  *----1972 Series III------1996 Discovery SE-7(m)----*

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Russ Wilson <rwwilson@mho.net>
Date: Fri, 23 Oct 1998 21:42:22 -0700
Subject: spam

I'd love to get the name and address of just one of the spammers  who have
bombed the list in the last few days....  Any computer wiz kids out there?
Is there anyway to fight fire with fire??  Just wondering.

Spam isn't just for breakfast anymore

Russ Wilson
Leslie Bittner

"That's just my opinion; I could be wrong...."
				Dennis Miller

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paaul Humphries <paul.humphries1@virgin.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:18:01 +0100
Subject: SIII dual circuit master cylinder

Can anyone tell me the bore size of the dual circuit master cylinder
fitted to the SWB SIII after the change to LWB type front brakes in
1980.
Thank you.

Paul Humphries.
Stoke-on-Trent.
1970 SIIa SWB diesel

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: NADdMD@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 17:55:33 EDT
Subject: Can't remember the trick to get an overdrive on mainshaft

Hi all,

What's the trick to getting the overdrive the final 1/2 inch onto the
mainshaft?  I'm stuck at this point and can't find the previous messages which
mention this.  Thanks

Nate

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 12:05:52
Subject: Re: Can't remember the trick to get an overdrive on mainshaft

>From memory, you simply rock the car back and forth or turn the engine over
while in gear with one drive wheel off ground.  If you insist on doing
while in 4x4, jack up both front and rear.
Aloha Peter

>What's the trick to getting the overdrive the final 1/2 inch onto the
>mainshaft?  

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Riaan Botes" <riaanb@iafrica.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 00:07:40 +0200
Subject: RE: Swiss members?

|<<Hi are there any Swiss members on the list. I need help to 
|trace the company
|that received my S1 from Solihull in 1951>>
|Those records are in a basement vault in Geneva and it may 
|take a court order
|and worldwide opinion to help locate it... ;-)

Great just what I need

Riaan Botes
'96 Tdi 110 PU
'76 SIII 109 , 2.25l Petrol PU
'51 SI 80"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: David Cockey <dcockey@tir.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:22:24 -0400
Subject: Overdrive alternative??

Older Jeeps and Scouts had an overdrive originally made by Warn, and now
made by Advance Adapters as the Saturn Overdrive.
(http://www.advanceadapters.com/Saturn-od/Saturn-od.html) The concept is
the same as the various LR overdrives; it plugs into the back of the
transfer case in the PTO location and replaces the mainshaft gear. This
overdrive was developed long before the LR overdrives, and is probably
the origin of the idea for the LR overdrives.

Any guesses on what might be required to adapt this unit to a LR? Anyone
knowledgable about LR and early Jeep transfer cases?  It may not be as
far-fetched as it sounds since a lot of LR running gear design is
inspired by/copied from Jeep. AA lists a 10 spline unit (same number of
splines as LR but the geometry may be entirely different. The number of
teeth is 29 rather than the LR's 27.

Regards,
David Cockey

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: TeriAnn Wakeman <twakeman@cruzers.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 98 17:38:16 -0700
Subject: Re: SIII dual circuit master cylinder

>Can anyone tell me the bore size of the dual circuit master cylinder
>fitted to the SWB SIII after the change to LWB type front brakes in
>1980.
>Thank you.

Lets see if I understend:

- you have an 88 with a brake vacume booster.
- you have moved the front brakes to the rear (88 front brakes = 109 & 
110 rear brakes)
- You have added 109 dual cylinder brakes to the front.

The master cylinder used on series III 109s has different bore diameters 
for each circuit.  If you look at one from the side you will see a step 
down in the bore dia along the top as you go from the rear bore to the 
front bore (an 88 master cylinder is the same dia front to rear).

The piping for the circuits is reversed between the 88 and 109.  On the 
109, the larger bore section (closest to the vacume booster) is piped to 
the front brakes.

Sorry I do not know the dias of either the front or rear bores.

TeriAnn Wakeman               If you send me direct mail, please
Santa Cruz, California        start the subject line with TW - 
twakeman@cruzers.com           I will be sure to read the message

http://www.cruzers.com/~twakeman   

Walk in harmony with the earth and all her creatures and you will create 
beauty wherever you go.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 14:46:38 -1000
Subject: Koenig PTO Winch Seals

>and the numbers are???

There were three seals altogether, one on each selector shaft and one on the
prop/input shaft.
Selector- 12520CR      NAPA number is NOS49482
Input Shaft- 150A28CR  NAPA number is 49111

Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 15:00:09 -1000
Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine.

Aloha Peter

> As far as the freeze plug, how do you get them out.

I have had good luck driving a sheet metal screw through the center and then
using a slide hamer.  Course that was with an engine that was on a bench, do
not know what the access will be like still in the vehicle.

>Do you just beat the plug in with a block of wood.

There is actually a tool made just for this.  It had interchangeable heads
and a long handle designed to reach between the manifolds and block.  Used
one to replace the plugs on an old GM V-8 with the engine still in.  If the
side is exposed you can use a regular seal installer or see if you have a
socket that is the same diameter as the plug.  If none of the above, block
of wood works well, just make sure to go slow, just like an oil seal.

Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 15:02:08 -1000
Subject: Re: Help needed with Koenig PTO winch

>These should be available from any truck parts store as PTO cables should
>work fine.....
>Peter Rosvall

Thanks
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: James Wolf <J.Wolf@worldnet.att.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 21:00:34
Subject: plug

>Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org> wrote:
>>Need some ideas on how to get this plug out without removing the engine
>>and hauling it off to a machine shop.  Also wondering why the plug would
>>corrode away in only 3 years since I rebuilt the engine???

Would this be the block drain valve? On my 1966 109 2.25, I have a
brass/copper? valve that will drain the block. I would try replaceing it
with copper. I just cleaned up mine and used some water proof grease and it
works again.

Jim Wolf

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 15:06:52 -1000
Subject: Re: Block heaters

>fit.  I certainly is nice to come out on a -20 F morning and have your
>Rover to be the only one in the lot to start *and* you have heat right
>away....

Wow Sandy, what part of Norfolk are you in?
Spent the last 6 years at the Oceanfront, Va Beach and do not remember it
getting quite that cold, haha.

Seriously, what is a block heater?  Is it an electric attachment?  We had
oil sump heaters installed on the cars back home (Maine) We would plug them
in every night before bed.  She would trun right over no problem in the
mornings (the 1000 CCA batteries didn't hurt either)

Pete (from the concrete island) Hope

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 15:15:16 -1000
Subject: Re: Koenig PTO Winch Seals

>Input Shaft- 150A28CR  NAPA number is 49111

ooops
should read NOS49111

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Tom Rowe" <trowe@ibm.net>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:00:41 -0400
Subject: Re: SIII dual circuit master cylinder

>Can anyone tell me the bore size of the dual circuit master cylinder
>fitted to the SWB SIII after the change to LWB type front brakes in
>1980.
>Thank you.

Well, I don't know if it was teh one fitted to the 88, but the 109
servo assisted dual braking system had a 1" bore MS, vs .875 for the
88. at least acording to my Haynes '58-'85 manual. It only says the
88 had a larger bore MS after '80. Since it used 109 wheel
components, maybe it used the 109 MS.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Cheers.

Tom Rowe
Atlanta, GA

Four wheel drive allows you to get stuck
in places even more inaccessible.

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 22:04:47 EDT
Subject: Ahoy the list!

Hello,
I'm new on this list and I see that there is some interesting discussion. For
my first act I would like to say HELP! I am repairing my son's 1973 Series III
88" station wagon so he can take it away to Fort Benning in December. I am
trying to repair some of the trim in the vehicle and am therefore interested
in finding some of the "oatmeal" pattern headliner material. I saw an ad from
one of the parts houses a while back but can't remember which one. Also this
vehicle has the Fairey pattern locking hubs and they are leaking, can someone
tell me how they desassemble and whether there is a seal repair kit for them.
Any help will be appreciated.

Bill Lawrence
Albuquerque, NM
1988 Range Rover
1973 SIII 88 
1958 SI 109 Truck cab

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow@thelen.org>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 19:16:37 -0700
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

DNDANGER@aol.com wrote:
> I am trying to repair some of the trim in the vehicle and am 
> therefore interested in finding some of the "oatmeal" pattern headliner 
> material. I saw an ad from one of the parts houses a while back but can't 
> remember which one. 

RN, BP, and AB all stock it.

> Also this vehicle has the Fairey pattern locking hubs and they are leaking, 
> can someone tell me how they desassemble and whether there is a seal repair 
> kit for them.

Yes, I've gotten a seal repair kit from BP in the past (actually a genuine LR
part, to boot!).  The whole assembly will come off by removing the hub nuts, or
if you want to get inside it, just use a BF flathead screwdriver to remove the
retaining screw, then use a very small screwdriver, punch, or drift to fish out
the nylon loop that holds the engagement mechanism on the hub.  The
aforementioned kit will have new nylon bits, and I recommend replacing them. 
They can be easily buggered, and I've lost 4WD on the trail due to that.

Good luck and take care!
C

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: DNDANGER@aol.com
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 23:20:36 EDT
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

Thanks, I guess I'll have to fish out the old BP flyer I have stashed
somewhere.
Later.

Bill Lawrence

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: "Peter Hope" <phope@hawaii.rr.com>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 18:35:42 -1000
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list!

>Thanks, I guess I'll have to fish out the old BP flyer I have stashed
>somewhere.
>Later.
>Bill Lawrence

Aloha Bill,
just incase you can not find the flyer:

Atlantic British  http://www.roverparts.com/
Rovers North    http://www2.roversnorth.com/roversnorth/
British Pacific   http://britpac.frazmtn.com/icaweb/britpac.nsf
British Bulldog  http://www.britishbulldog.com/

Don't know of anyothers
Pete

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:00:12
Subject: Re: Ahoy the list! dismantling Faerey Hubs

	Remove the screw on the side of the selector knob.  The bevel that the
head of the screw rests against is actually the beginning of a nylon strap
that goes around the knob and holds it on.  Carefully pry out the bevel and
pull out the strap.  The knob can then be pulled off.  Rebuild kit consists
of this strap and the large 'O' ring that is probably what has been cut by
careless insertion of the knob and is causing the leak.
	Scratched my head for a long time before calling RN to get the skinny on
how to take these things apart.
Aloha Peter

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Faye and Peter Ogilvie <ogilvi@hgea.org>
Date: Sat, 24 Oct 1998 20:07:45
Subject: Re: Replacing pipe plug in left rear side of engine.

	I can get at the freeze plug without a problem.  Don't have a slide 
hammer
but its probably time I got one as they seem a fairly handy item to have.  
	Cannot get at the damn npt plug, however.  Will have to pull the engine 
to
get at that.  Several days work to replace a $.50 part.
	Thanks for your input.  I'm up to my ears with the rover and the farm.
I've been working a side job for the past two weeks and have gotten behind
in my picking.  May take me a week or so to get at the parts car to pull
the steering arm.  Can you wait that long???
Aloha Peter 

At 03:00 PM 10/24/98 -1000, you wrote:

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 01:34:18 -0500
Subject: Re: Santana Springs: Parabolic

<< if I want parabolics I have to pay the
price for them.  That is going to hurt.  :-) >>

 Yeah, tell me about it!
 
 I cannot really recommend doing only one end of the vehicle, as the 
new end is so good that the original end drives you mad...
 
 I guess at a pinch you could do the rears first. (That is probably why 
my stockist is out of rear parabolics though!).
 
 I would strongly recommend ordering new shackle bolts and U-bolts 
along with the springs. It may scare the old ones into coming off 
easily. (I only had to hacksaw off the front L/H shackle pin. It had 
corroded to the sleeve inside the bush of the leaf spring. Heating with 
a blow torch and swearing in several languages did not free it, so it 
had to be the hacksaw)
 

 Paul

 Sun, 25 Oct 1998 05:45

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 01:34:21 -0500
Subject: Re: Block heaters

<<  on a -20 F morning >>

 I am glad to say we do not get too many of those in Richmond - Upon - 
Thames. Richmond Yorkshire probably gets more of those than we do...
 

 Paul (Richmond-Upon-Thames, twinned with Richmond Va. according to the 
road signs...)

 Sun, 25 Oct 1998 05:55

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Paul Lonsdale <Lonsdale@compuserve.com>
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 01:34:23 -0500
Subject: Re: SIII dual circuit master cylinder

<< The piping for the circuits is reversed between the 88 and 109.  On 
the 109, the larger bore section (closest to the vacume booster) is 
piped to the front brakes. >>

 That is exactly how it is on my 88 which was built 1st May 1984.
 
 As I understand it this was one of a number of areas where the 88 
started using 109 parts in the interests of rationalisation.
 
 It makes it stop well too! :)

 Paul

 Sun, 25 Oct 1998 06:02

 Ex- H.M. Coastguard Series III 88 Inch
 "Dougal Mc Landie"  B 895 OJT
 

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 06:05:35 EST
Subject: Re: Wax oil

I missed the start of this thread having been away (the usual - Land Rover
factory, three days off-roading, press day at the motor show, two days in
hospital) and am attempting to churn through trillions of emails.........
however, if it helps and if someone didn't already post it, Hammerite
(manufacturers of Waxoyl) have an excellent dept for answering all your
questions

lisa.o'shea@hammerite.com

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 06:05:42 EST
Subject: Re: Post your solutions

In a message dated 22/10/98 17:17:45 BST, you write:

<< how many of us have overlooked the obvious in
 trying to figure something out? >>

all of us, at least twice :-(>

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

From: Frankelson@aol.com
Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 06:05:48 EST
Subject: Re: Bushings

In a message dated 22/10/98 19:57:23 BST, you write:

<< me that a stiffer suspension is not something you would want on an off raod
  vehicle, specially a rover, but what do I know >>
 
 Pete, you know what I am wondering, for one thing. 
 
 I too cannot see why I would put stiffer (read: limits articulation) bushings
 on my vehicle. I can see some areas where they would be an improvement, but
 not in every location. I have a coiler, and I wouldn't want poly bushings
 where the radius & trailing arms mount, because in those locations I can
 visualize their impediment to travel. If I drove a grocery-getter-land-rover,
 I would probably not hesitate to put them in, along with Bilstein Shocks
 (which I also feel are not for the dirt-oriented LR)
 .02
  >>
right on the money both of you....

The original (sic) Polybush (upper case cos it's a company name which
vigorously sues others using it) idea was twofold.
 In the first case the polys are easier to fit, can be done in a driveway
unlike the nasty rubber things.
 Secondly, they last longer and improve road holding (on tarmac) because they
limit roll.

I drove the first coller (a Range Rover) fitted with these many years ago and
on road it handled like a sports car, off road it made a Ser leafer seem like
a luxury sedan!! Just too hard.

It therefore follows that axle articulation is limited somewhat.

Therefore, while everyone (sic) has been fitting thesre things and singing
their praises for years I've stuck to the good old rubber stuff.

Two more points: It seems to me that the rubber has a very specific job and
that is to absorb shock. It follows that hardening up the bushes means that
the shock is transmitted further up the drive train to where the designer
never intended it to go - I don't like that idea. 
 Also I have seen bushes made from polyurethane (I am not naming a specific
make) flake and fall apart in competition - I don't like that idea either.

Now Polybush has launched a new, softer pol.... look let's call 'em plastic
right?...... bush called the "comfort" bush which is said to address all the
criticisms above...
 so if it's a softer plastic why doesn't it wear like rubber???

nope, I'll stick to rubber.....

er, excuse the rant and use of bandwith, but I do read a lot of stuff that
seems to miss out on all the facts

Best Cheers

Frank
             +--+--+--+   	        
            I !__|  [_]|_\___   
            I ____|”_|"__|_ | /   B791 PKV - Bronze Green 110 CSW
            "(o)======(o)"

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

  END OF * LIST DIGEST 
 Input:  messages 36 lines 1417 [forwarded 89 whitespace 0]
 Output: lines 947 [content 758  forwarded 89 (cut  0) whitespace 0]

Digest Messages Copyright 1990-1999 by the original poster or/and Empire Rover Owners Society, All rights reserved. Photos & text Copyright 1990-1999 Bill Caloccia, All rights reserved. Empire/LRO List of charges for Empire/LRO Policies against the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Empire/LRO fees for the distribution of unsolicited commercial e-mail (aka SPAM). Frequently Asked Questions
<--Back	HOME	TOP	Forward -->	height=31 width=88 alt="Made with Macintosh" border=0>